DIY turbine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself turbine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

For many car enthusiasts who love power and speed, the question of buying a car with a turbocharged engine is very important.

In turn, the task of the turbocharger is to supply a larger volume of air to the engine cylinders and, as a consequence, increase the power of the latter.

The only drawback of such a useful element is frequent failure, so every motorist should be able to make at least minimal repairs to the turbine.

Structurally, a turbocharger is a very simple mechanism that consists of several basic elements:

General body of the node and snail;
Plain bearing;
Thrust bearing;
Distance and thrust bushings.

The turbine housing is made of aluminum alloy and the shaft is made of steel.

Therefore, in the event of failure of these elements, the only correct solution is only replacement.

Most turbine damage can be easily diagnosed and repaired. At the same time, the work can be entrusted to professionals in their field, or you can do everything yourself.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about this (we will consider how to dismantle and repair a turbine in the article).

As the operating practice shows, there are two main reasons for breakdowns - poor-quality or untimely maintenance.

If, however, a technical inspection is carried out according to the plan, then the turbine will work for a long time and without any particular complaints from motorists.

So, today there are several main signs and reasons for turbine failure:

1. The appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe at the time of increasing revs and its absence when the norm is reached. The main reason for such a malfunction is the ingress of oil into the combustion chamber due to a leak in the turbine.

Video (click to play).

2. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe - indicates the combustion of the fuel mixture in the intercooler or delivery line. The probable cause is damage or breakdown of the TKR (turbocharger) control system.

3. White smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates a clogged turbine oil drain line. In such a situation, only cleaning can save.

4. Excessive oil consumption up to one liter per thousand kilometers. In this case, you need to pay attention to the turbine and the presence of a leak. In addition, it is advisable to inspect the joints of the pipes.

5. The dynamics of acceleration is "dulled". This is a clear symptom of a lack of air in the engine. The reason is a malfunction or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
6. The appearance of a whistle on a running engine. The likely cause is an air leak between the motor and the turbine.
7. Strange grinding noise during turbine operation often indicates the appearance of a crack or deformation in the housing of the unit. In most cases, with such symptoms, TCR does not "live" for a long time and further repair of the turbine may be ineffective.

8. Increased noise in the operation of the turbine can cause clogging of the oil line, changing the rotor clearances and rubbing the latter against the turbocharger housing.
9. An increase in exhaust gas toxicity or fuel consumption often indicates problems with the supply of air to the TCR (turbocharger).

To repair the turbine with your own hands, it must be dismantled.

This is done in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect all piping that leads to the turbine. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the node itself and the devices adjacent to it.

2. Remove the turbine and compressor volutes. The latter can be dismantled without problems, but the turbine volute is often attached very tightly.

Here, dismantling can be done in two ways - by the mallet method or by using the snail mounting bolts themselves (by gradually releasing them from all sides).

When performing work, you must be very careful not to damage the turbine wheel.

3. Once the work on dismantling the volutes is completed, you can check for any shaft play. If the latter is missing, then the problem is not with the shaft.

Again, slight lateral play is acceptable (but not more than one millimeter).

4. The next step is to remove the compressor wheels. Pliers come in handy to do this job. When dismantling, please note that the compressor shaft has a left-hand thread in most cases.

A special puller is useful to dismantle the compressor wheel.

5. Next, the sealing inserts are dismantled (they are located in the grooves of the rotor), as well as the thrust bearing (it is mounted on three bolts, so there are no problems with removal).

6. Now you can remove the liners from the end part - they are fastened with a retaining ring (sometimes you have to tinker when dismantling).

The plain bearings (compressor side) are secured with a circlip.

7. When performing dismantling work, it is necessary (regardless of the breakdown) to rinse and clean the main elements - cartridge, seals, rings and other components.

Once dismantling is complete, repairs can be made. To do this, there should be a special repair kit at hand, which contains everything you need - inserts, hardware, oil seals and rings.

Check the quality of the fixation of the nominal liners. If they are loose, then they need to be grooved and the shaft should be balanced.

In this case, it is advisable to clean the liners well and lubricate them with engine oil.

The retaining rings located inside the turbine must be installed in the cartridge. At the same time, make sure that they are in their place (in special grooves).

After that, you can mount the turbine liner, having previously lubricated it with engine oil. The liner is fixed with a retaining ring.

The next step is to mount the compressor liner, after which a well-lubricated liner can be inserted.

Next, put a plate on it and tighten it well with bolts (without fanaticism).

Install the dirt plate (secured with a retaining ring) and an oil scraper ring.

It remains only to return the snails to their place. That's all.

This article provides a general algorithm for disassembling and assembling a turbine. Of course, depending on the type of the latter, this algorithm will be partially changed, but the general course of work will be identical.

Well, if a serious breakdown is revealed, then it is better to immediately replace the old turbine with a new one.

In the absence of serious defects, the repair of the turbine takes no more than a few hours. But with the help of improvised tools and material prepared in advance, you can make a very high-quality and budgetary repair.

For all its complexity, the turbocharger does not differ in an abundance of parts - it has only three main parts - the turbine, which operates on the exhaust gas side, the compressor, which is responsible for engine pressurization, and between them there is a bearing assembly (the so-called cartridge) through which the rotor shaft passes. ... The shaft and turbine wheel are one piece, and the compressor wheel is mounted on the shaft. There is also a control system, which, depending on the design of the TC, can be located on the turbine or compressor casing. This device is responsible for the operation of the unit bypass valve. The cartridge has seals to prevent oil from entering the housings. This concludes the list of TC details.

With such seeming simplicity, a technically competent owner may want to make repairs on his own.Moreover, a new turbine is quite expensive (500 - 1000 USD), and after restoration the price can reach 450 USD. The solution may be to buy a used turbocharger. , however, hardly anyone will give a guarantee on it. There is also a certain shortage of qualified TC repair specialists - sometimes you have to wait for your turn for some time. Nevertheless, those who decided to do their own repair will face numerous "pitfalls", which he did not even suspect.

A small nuance and far-reaching consequences

One of the common mistakes that are regularly made by those who decide to repair the TC on their own is associated with a lack of understanding of the damping effect inherent in the design of the unit's bearing assembly. It is this question that requires some clarification, since misunderstanding can lead to sad consequences.

The need for damping is associated with the features of the engine. Exhaust gases enter the exhaust manifold and then to the turbine impeller in portions in accordance with how the engine exhaust valves are opened. Thus, the flow is not uniform - its effect on the turbine rotor is of a pulsed nature. To compensate for the shock effect, it would be necessary to give the rotor much more rigidity, which would lead to an increase in the size and weight of the entire unit. A solution was found in the form of using floating type bushings in plain bearings, which perform a damping function on the side of the housing.

There is a certain gap between the floating sleeve and the housing, in which an oil film is formed, which is almost identical to that which forms between the rotor and the sleeve. The bushing rotates at a frequency that is approximately half that of the rotor speed, and two oil films successfully compensate for the impulse effect of exhaust gases on the turbine rotor, performing shock-absorbing functions.

When self-repairing the turbine, an allegedly increased backlash between the bushing and the casing can be diagnosed, this is taken as a defect, after which bushings are machined from the corresponding material (usually bronze), which are pressed into the casing with some interference. The analogy is obvious - these bushings resemble bushings in the connecting rod head or in the starter, but this error leads to dire consequences. The turbine operates at extreme conditions, and the absence of one oil film leads to a decrease in the damping effect, which increases the wear of the plain bearings many times over. In extreme cases, a breakage of the rotor shaft may even occur.

Balancing rotating parts is essential for correct and long lasting performance. A striking and fairly simple example is wheel balancing, which must be done after each disassembly repair. Otherwise, in the case of the front wheels, beating will be transmitted to the steering wheel. And even the absence of any special external signs of rear wheel imbalance, nevertheless, leads to their premature and very characteristic stained wear. It is also worth noting the increased load and, as a result, increased wear of the suspension parts.

Naturally, the dimensions of the turbine impellers are incomparable with the dimensions of the wheels, but it is worth considering the fact that their rotational speed is several orders of magnitude higher - the normal rotor speed is 100 thousand rpm and higher, and in some models it can reach 300 thousand rpm As you know, loads on a rotating part increase in proportion to the square of the speed. Thus, at such speeds, the loads are quite comparable, and the slightest imbalance can lead to catastrophic consequences.

Dismantling the bearing assembly, even loosening the tightening of its bolts, leads to the fact that the balance is disturbed.It is quite clear that in artisanal conditions it is not possible to balance the rotor, and even if all defective parts were correctly replaced, such a repair completely loses its meaning - a turbocharger with an imbalance will fail quickly guaranteed.

The balancing of the rotor of the TC is carried out on special equipment by a qualified specialist, and this process takes place in two stages. First of all, it is necessary to balance the rotor itself, after which the cartridge is assembled and the whole assembly is balanced. For this, two different machines are used, and the second simulates the operation of the TC in real conditions, the bearings are supplied with oil of the required temperature and loads are created on the rotor.

It is worth repeating again - in artisanal conditions, balancing the turbine rotor is impossible in principle. And even if all the necessary parts were replaced and the assembly was carried out correctly, such a unit will have an imbalance that will lead to its rapid failure.

What you can do yourself

With all the complexity of repairing a turbocharger, there are operations that the owner, with the proper technical skills, can perform on his own. It is about dismantling and installing the unit. In this case, you should follow some rules to avoid trouble.

Before installing a repaired turbocharger, thoroughly flush the oil supply pipe, since the health of the unit directly depends on the oil supply to it. In addition, after repairs, residual dirt can get inside the unit and damage it initially. In general, when working with a turbine, the utmost cleanliness and accuracy should be observed. Before installing the TC on the engine, pour about 20 g of oil into the receiving hole, after which it is necessary to turn the shaft several times to distribute it evenly. It is imperative to replace the oil, oil and air filters.

Do not use sealants when installing pipes through a gasket. Use only good quality new gaskets. After assembly, it is necessary to start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no oil and coolant leaks through the connections. The turbine run-in period is 1000 kilometers. In this case, you should not exceed the speed above 100 km / h, and also avoid sudden changes in driving modes.

It is not possible to repair the turbocharger on your own or in a regular car service. For qualified repairs with a guarantee, contact only workshops that specialize in this type of repair. Such a workshop must certainly be equipped with machines for preliminary and final balancing of the turbocharger rotor.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message mihei-sochi »03 May 2013, 00:07

I'll start from afar:
The turbine impeller is made of refractory metal, by casting it into a mold and bringing it to the state of a homogeneous monolith crystal. oo
Hence, its cosmic value of 37 tons follows.
But, the cause of the malfunction is most often the wear of the oil of the removable (it is also the retaining) ring, less often the wear of the bronze bushings.

... works, does not smoke.

There are not many photos from the pictures, since my hands are either covered in oil or are busy. there is a video, I do not know how to insert it, and in what format.

thanks for the video tip.
So, in the video there is a check of the turbine tightness.
as far as I remember that moment there was a very dense copper ring, and the gap at the junction was only just a few hundredths of a millimeter.
kept 0.5 atm. spinning from the flow of gases from the muffler.
and visually continuous air outlet

A guide for self-repairing a turbine.The power and speed that a car with a turbocharged engine offers is a matter of principle for many drivers.
Image - DIY turbine repair

They are achieved through an integrated turbocharger that supplies large volumes of air to the engine's cylinders, thereby increasing its power. However, the happiness of owning such a super-useful unit is overshadowed by its frequent breakdown. All car parts wear out over time, but the turbine is repaired much less frequently than a complete replacement of the damaged mechanism.

Compliance with elementary operating rules, a thorough technical inspection on time, the use of high-quality synthetic oil and its regular replacement, the correct position of the oil line without kinks, the presence of a turbo timer and the purchase of a blow-off bypass valve - these simple manipulations can increase the durability of the turbocharger several times. The opportunity to visit a service station at the slightest malfunction is not affordable for everyone, so it makes sense to master the basics of minimal turbine repair on your own.

The turbine layout is quite simple, its main elements are:

The common body of the unit and the snail.
Plain bearing.
Thrust bearing.
Distance and thrust bushings.

So the main elements of the turbine are metal (aluminum housing, steel shaft), they cannot be repaired - only replaced.

The main causes of turbine malfunction quite amenable to self-diagnosis and repair. Of course, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to delegate these procedures to professionals.

Almost all breakdowns are based on 2 violations: an inspection performed poorly or not on time.

When the engine revs up, blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe, which disappears at normal values.

Reason: There is a leak in the turbine through which oil enters the combustion chamber.

Emission of black smoke from the exhaust pipe.

Cause: the fuel mixture burns out in the intercooler or in the delivery line if the control system is malfunctioning.

Reason: The drain hole of the turbine oil line is impassable and requires cleaning.

Increase in oil consumption per kilometer (can reach a ratio of 1 liter: 1000 km).

Reason: a leak in the turbine, disconnection of the pipe joints.

Acceleration takes longer.

Cause: A decrease in the volume of air supplied by the turbocharger due to a malfunction.

Whistle when the engine is running.

Reason: disruption of the continuity of the connection between the motor and the turbine, air leakage into the formed cracks.

Grinding sound when the turbine is running.

Reason: the most likely is the deformation of the unit body, self-repair is ineffective, it may be necessary to replace the entire turbocharger.

Increase in noise level when the turbine is running.

Cause: oil line blockage, increased rotor clearances, contact between the rotor and the turbocharger housing.

Increased fuel consumption and increased concentration of exhaust gases.

Cause: Lost connection to the turbocharger, insufficient air supply.

These include: a pipe connecting the turbine to another pipe to create an air flow.

We remove both snails: turbine (you may need to make an effort) and compressor. We remove either with the help of a mallet - we knock down, or we unscrew the fastening bolts. We try not to hit the turbine wheel.

It is necessary to carefully examine the condition of the shoulder blades. In the presence of surface deformations, even of the smallest dimensions, they need to be replaced or repaired by grinding and turning.

We assess the condition of the pipe. There may be slight drops of oil on it, but ideally the tube should be practically dry. On many turbocharger models, a prompting system is attached to its port. If it is damaged or parts mismatch, there will be a significant amount of oil at the junction, as well as on the pipe itself. In this case, you will not be able to do it on your own; it is necessary to involve professionals in the repair.
We check the serviceability of the shaft - after removing the snails, we look for the presence of backlash - we grab the shaft with our hand and try to shift it in the direction of the axis. Half- and one-millimeter lateral backlash is quite acceptable. We also immediately check the radial backlash - the blades touching the turbine housing: we move the shaft to the extreme right state and turn the blades. When these parts come into contact, the situation indicates the need to replace the turbine due to a breakdown. It is necessary to disconnect the pipe from the intake manifold or intercooler and turbine and assess the condition of the holes. If there is a significant amount of oil in the pipe, but there is practically no oil in the area of the holes, we conclude that the turbocharger is malfunctioning, accompanied by an increased oil consumption greater than the maximum value.
We remove the compressor wheels using pliers and a special puller, while remembering the left-hand thread on the compressor shaft.
We separate the sealing inserts in the cavities of the rotor and unscrew the 3 bolts of the thrust bearing.
We separate the sealing inserts from the retaining ring from the end of the turbine.
We remove the sleeve bearings, which are also attached to the circlip from the compressor side.
The main components, such as the cartridge, seals, rings, etc., should be cleaned and washed during disassembly.
Please note when buying a vehicle: the presence of a glowing inscription of the Check-engine indicator on the panel means a serious malfunction of the turbine. Only an expert can determine the exact cause of the breakdown.

It is necessary to have a special repair kit in stock, which includes hardware, rings, oil seals and inserts.
We check the fixedness of the nominal liners. If there are vibrations, we grind, clean, lubricate with engine oil and balance the shaft.
The retaining rings are installed in special grooves of the cartridge inside the turbine.
Lubricate the turbocharger liner with special engine oil and fix it in place with a retaining ring.
Installing the compressor liner.
Lubricate and replace the sleeve.
From above, the sleeve is fixed with a plate using bolts.
We install protection against dirt using retaining rings.
Install the oil on the removable ring.
Installing the snails.

You should be extremely careful about assembling the disassembled turbine... Often a situation arises when the analysis went quite well, but problems arise with the editing. Diligently cleaned of contamination, washed with a specially selected composition and examined for deformations (if necessary, they are replaced), the turbine parts are very carefully, until they stop, are installed in the designated grooves.

The peculiarity of the structure of the turbine - a small number of elements determines its relative durability. Its component parts are easily amenable and in most cases require replacement, but even if absolutely all parts are faulty, the turbine is capable of performing work operations. However, this fact should not be taken as a guide to action, as a malfunctioning turbine provides a truly fantastic oil consumption.

The specified sequence of operations is common for all types of turbochargers, depending on the model, some of the steps may vary. In the event of a serious malfunction, it is recommended to replace the damaged turbine.

To save money, it makes sense to master the independent repair of the turbine, especially considering that the time costs do not exceed several hours.

There is no car in which nothing breaks. And such a miracle of technology will not appear soon, so the car owner has to put up with the inevitability of repair work. Turning to specialists for every reason is not a way out. You need to be able to do something yourself, learn and improve your skills.For example, do-it-yourself turbine repair can be done if you show a little patience, gain new knowledge and learn from the experience of the masters.

Before proceeding with the repair of any equipment, you should familiarize yourself with its design and principle of operation. This is logical and correct.

The design includes the following set of parts:

impeller with a turbine;
centrifugal air pump;
compressor;
axle with a rigid structure for connecting the constituent elements;
a set of small parts (bearings, valves, seals, rings, etc.).

The gases generated by the engine are directed to the impeller of the turbocharger. Their energy is kinetic, and thanks to the impeller, it becomes mechanical. Synchronous operation of the pump and air filter ensures the supply of air to the inside of the compressor. The air is compressed and directed to the engine. This improves engine power and fuel efficiency.

This is roughly how a turbine works. Now you need to determine the nature and cause of the breakdown. We proceed to inspect the unit and diagnose it.

You can judge that something is wrong with the turbine by the following signs:

a noticeable decrease in engine power;
exhaust color change (black or dark blue);
increased oil consumption;
the appearance of extraneous sounds when the engine is running.

All the preparatory work has been completed, the information has been assimilated, you are full of determination and enthusiasm - it's time to start the most important and responsible stage. We study in detail and carefully how to repair a turbine without the involvement of specialists.

We prepare in advance a minimum set of mandatory parts that may be required during the repair process (liners, oil seals, screws, rings, washers).

We remove the turbine from the place of its attachment.

We unscrew the fasteners, noting each of them, remembering and writing down their original location. This step is very important because it is easier to disassemble than to assemble. Do not forget about the "snails", which also have to be removed.

We focus on the turbine and compressor. If they become unusable, then they will need to be replaced with new parts, since these components cannot be repaired.

To remove the compressor wheel, it is necessary to use nippers with sliding lips. Note that the compressor shaft has a left-hand thread.

In an amicable way, it is required to check the shaft play for admissibility, but this requires special equipment for the repair of turbines. In the absence of such, you will have to hope for the best and contact the appropriate service at the first opportunity.

We are faced with the task of removing the compressor wheel, which is attached to the shaft. The universal puller will help with this.

We pay special attention to the shaft sleeves, the failure of which can cause backlash.

We wash every detail very carefully and thoroughly. Remember that the slightest grain of sand can damage the entire unit. Some parts will need new grease, which can be used as automotive oil.

In turbines, the catalytic converter can become clogged, which leads to a decrease in the turbocharging pressure. To avoid such a situation, you will need to fully open the throttle valve by pressing the gas pedal all the way, thus forcing the engine to operate at maximum speed.If such a check has not yielded results and the cause of the breakdown remains unknown, it is time to start checking the wastegate. It is also called WestGate. Most often, this part becomes unusable for fans of aggressive driving with a sporty character. The damper simply does not have time to close, allowing part of the processed gases to pass through.The vacuum leak test deserves due attention. The sensor readings show the boost pressure, which can be used to judge the presence of vacuum.When the engine is idling, the vacuum indicator should not fall below 0.54 bar. Otherwise, we can safely talk about the presence of a vacuum leak. It can appear behind the manifold or behind the throttle valve.Let's say that this check also did not shed light on the turbine problem. This means that you need to focus on the turbine blower and shaft bearings. There should be no imbalance or backlash in the operation of these elements. In this process, the main thing is the utmost and maximum accuracy.