Do-it-yourself passat b3 turbine repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Passat B3 turbine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The AAZ engine was installed on the following vehicles:

Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997

Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994

Volkswagen Golf 3 / Volkswagen Golf 3 (1H1, 1H5) 1992 - 1998
Volkswagen Vento (1H2) 1992 - 1998
Volkswagen Golf Cabriolet 3 / Volkswagen Golf Cabrio 3 (1E7) 1993 - 2002

Audi 80 B4 / Audi 80 B4 (8C2) 1991 - 1995
Audi 80 Avant B4 / Audi 80 Avant B4 (8C5) 1992 - 1996

SEAT Ibiza 2 / Seat Ibiza 2 (6K1) 1993 - 2002
SEAT Cordoba (6K2) 1993 - 2002
SEAT Toledo (1L) 1991 - 1999

Well, in general, in continuation of the topic about replacing the turbine, the AAZ Golf 3 engine.
I read a lot about the turbine itself, received a lot of advice, and the most interesting thing is the question of money. In general, my old one was bent for repairs about 600 bucks, a turbine with restoration is 900 bucks, a used one is 500 bucks, a new one in Kazakhstan is 1000-1500 euros. I made it easier to buy a new one in Germany through friends for 500 euros.
Well, now the replacement itself.
drove into the garage, cooled it slightly and began to disassemble it in the picture you can see how the turbine spat with oil

I pulled off all the pipes, they are already resting on the table, do not be alarmed, the engine is all dirty, as I drive constantly through the fields!

Moreover, we unscrew the 6 bolts on the air manifold with a hexagon (the hexagon should be with a joke, look further in the pictures), that's all the collector is on the table.

Video (click to play).

This is the same set of hexagons (with a pin), they can unscrew even at an angle!

Next, we unscrew the oil supply pipe to the turbine and take it aside only carefully.

Then 4 gadgets for 12 as it is called correctly I don’t know well, in general, the exhaust manifold, let's just say!

Further, just below there are 2 more bolts with which the same manifold is screwed onto the exhaust to the exhaust manifold, all this can be unscrewed without getting under the car! Here they are already unscrewed.

Next, we unscrew the oil drain pipe from the turbine, it can be unscrewed either with a key for 10 or with an asterisk, this is of the type of hexagons.

All now, nothing prevents us from unscrewing the exhaust manifold itself, 4 turnkey nuts 12 from above, then we move to a horizontal position under the car and unscrew 4 turnkey nuts 13.
Here's another piece of iron on the table!

Here we have a view of those same 3 bolts 12-sided turnkey 12 that hold the turbine! I will say that I unscrewed them last month, the code sent the turbo to be repaired with a tube amplifier, this time I had to unscrew it in the same way, although I have traveled only 500 km since then.

Well, that's all kirdyk we throw out the lower piece of iron

For many car enthusiasts who love power and speed, the question of buying a car with a turbocharged engine is very important.

In turn, the task of the turbocharger is to supply a larger volume of air to the engine cylinders and, as a consequence, increase the power of the latter.

The only drawback of such a useful element is frequent failure, so every motorist should be able to make at least minimal repairs to the turbine.

Structurally, a turbocharger is a very simple mechanism that consists of several basic elements:

General body of the node and snail;
Plain bearing;
Thrust bearing;
Distance and thrust bushings.

The turbine housing is made of aluminum alloy and the shaft is made of steel.

Therefore, in the event of failure of these elements, the only correct solution is only replacement.

Most turbine damage can be easily diagnosed and repaired. At the same time, the work can be entrusted to professionals in their field, or you can do everything yourself.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about this (we will consider how to dismantle and repair a turbine in the article).

As the practice of operation shows, there are two main reasons for breakdowns - poor-quality or untimely maintenance.

If, however, a technical inspection is made according to the plan, then the turbine will work for a long time and without any particular complaints from motorists.

So, today there are several main signs and reasons for turbine failure:

1. The appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe at the time of increasing revs and its absence when the norm is reached. The main reason for such a malfunction is the ingress of oil into the combustion chamber due to a leak in the turbine.

2. Black smoke from the exhaust pipe - indicates the combustion of the fuel mixture in the intercooler or delivery line. The probable cause is damage or breakdown of the TKR (turbocharger) control system.

3. White smoke from the exhaust pipe indicates a clogged turbine oil drain line. In such a situation, only cleaning can save.

4. Excessive oil consumption up to one liter per thousand kilometers. In this case, you need to pay attention to the turbine and the presence of a leak. In addition, it is advisable to inspect the joints of the pipes.

5. The dynamics of acceleration is "dulled". This is a clear symptom of a lack of air in the engine. The reason is a malfunction or breakdown of the TKR control system (turbocharger).
6. The appearance of a whistle on a running engine. The likely cause is an air leak between the motor and the turbine.
7. Strange grinding noise during turbine operation often indicates the appearance of a crack or deformation in the housing of the unit. In most cases, with such symptoms, TCR does not "live" for a long time and further repair of the turbine may be ineffective.

8. Increased noise in the operation of the turbine can cause clogging of the oil line, changing the rotor clearances and rubbing the latter against the turbocharger housing.
9. An increase in exhaust gas toxicity or fuel consumption often indicates problems with the supply of air to the TCR (turbocharger).

To repair the turbine with your own hands, it must be dismantled.

This is done in the following sequence:

1. Disconnect all piping that leads to the turbine. In this case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the node itself and the devices adjacent to it.

2. Remove the turbine and compressor volutes. The latter can be dismantled without problems, but the turbine volute is often attached very tightly.

Here, dismantling can be done in two ways - by the mallet method or by using the snail mounting bolts themselves (by gradually releasing them from all sides).

When performing work, you must be very careful not to damage the turbine wheel.

3. Once the work on dismantling the volutes is completed, you can check for any shaft play. If the latter is missing, then the problem is not with the shaft.

Again, slight lateral play is acceptable (but not more than one millimeter).

4. The next step is to remove the compressor wheels. Pliers come in handy to do this job. When dismantling, please note that the compressor shaft has a left-hand thread in most cases.

A special puller is useful to dismantle the compressor wheel.

5. Next, the sealing inserts are dismantled (they are located in the grooves of the rotor), as well as the thrust bearing (it is mounted on three bolts, so there are no problems with removal).

6. Now you can remove the liners from the end part - they are fastened with a retaining ring (sometimes you have to tinker when dismantling).

The plain bearings (compressor side) are secured with a circlip.

7. When performing dismantling work, it is necessary (regardless of the breakdown) to rinse and clean the main elements - cartridge, seals, rings and other components.

Once dismantling is complete, repairs can be made.To do this, there should be a special repair kit at hand, which contains everything you need - inserts, hardware, oil seals and rings.

Check the quality of the fixation of the nominal liners. If they are loose, then they need to be grooved and the shaft should be balanced.

In this case, it is advisable to clean the liners well and lubricate them with engine oil.

The retaining rings located inside the turbine must be installed in the cartridge. At the same time, make sure that they are in their place (in special grooves).

After that, you can mount the turbine liner, having previously lubricated it with engine oil. The liner is fixed with a retaining ring.

The next step is to mount the compressor liner, after which a well-lubricated liner can be inserted.

Next, put a plate on it and tighten it well with bolts (without fanaticism).

Install the dirt plate (secured with a retaining ring) and an oil scraper ring.

It remains only to return the snails to their place. That's all.

This article provides a general algorithm for disassembling and assembling a turbine. Of course, depending on the type of the latter, this algorithm will be partially changed, but the general course of work will be identical.

Well, if a serious breakdown is revealed, then it is better to immediately replace the old turbine with a new one.

In the absence of serious defects, the repair of the turbine takes no more than a few hours. But with the help of improvised tools and material prepared in advance, you can make a very high-quality and budgetary repair.

Installing a turbocharger on a diesel engine improves energy efficiency, torque, power and throttle response. Long-term operation and untimely maintenance lead to damage to the unit. If you have locksmith skills and tools, you can repair the turbocharger with your own hands. To do this, you need to study its device and familiarize yourself with the repair instructions.

The unit consists of three main sections:

hot (turbine), working with exhaust gases;
compressor room supplying compressed air to the manifold;
cartridge (bearing unit) that transmits the torque from the turbine to the compressor impeller.

There is a control system in the turbine or compressor section that controls the operation of the bypass valve. The compressor impeller is put on the shaft, which is a continuation of the turbine. The bearings are lubricated through oil channels.

Given the not too complicated device and the high cost of the unit, repairing a turbine with your own hands on a diesel engine can save you a lot.

This need for repair is indicated by the following signs:

Increased oil consumption that enters the cylinders. This may be accompanied by the appearance of blue smoke from the exhaust.
Loss of power due to air entering through the pipe seals.
Change in the composition of the fuel-air mixture. This translates into increased fuel consumption and black smoke from the tailpipe.
Increased turbine noise due to wear on cartridge bearings.

If you notice at least one of the signs, it's time to check the operation of the supercharger and repair the turbine with your own hands on a diesel engine.

Do-it-yourself diesel turbine repair requires tools, parts and advanced locksmith skills. In their absence, it is cheaper to turn to professionals. Handcrafted assembly can lead to the ingress of grains of sand into the unit. As a result, it will permanently fail. If you are confident in your abilities, you can get to work.

Before you repair the turbine, you should prepare a repair kit. You will need the following details:

You will also need the following set of tools:

socket and open-end wrenches;
screwdrivers;
nippers with sliding jaws;
curly editing;
puller;
mallet.

This is enough to restore the turbine with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself repair of a diesel engine turbine of a passenger car or truck begins with its dismantling.To do this, you need to perform the following operations:

unscrew the bolts or remove the stoppers securing the compressor and turbine unit housings;
if the knot has become attached, it must be carefully "woken up" by tapping with a mallet;
remove the snail.

First you need to check the bearings of the cartridge: longitudinal play is unacceptable, transverse play is only very small. AND

The compressor retaining ring is removed using a sliding jaw pliers. In this case, the reverse side of the shaft is clamped by curly dressing.

When disassembling, do not forget about the left-hand thread on the shaft.

The compressor wheel cannot be removed without a special puller. To prevent unbalance of the unit, during assembly, you need to install the parts in the same position. To do this, mark the wheel and nut.To properly repair the turbine with your own hands, you need to thoroughly clean all the parts and check their condition.Bushing wear is the main cause of cartridge play. To replace them, you need to remove the retaining rings and unscrew the mounting bolts. You will also have to change the liners that are held by the stopper. Before removing the seal rings, remove carbon deposits from the cartridge shaft and impeller.

If shaft wear is noticeable, the worn out liners of the nominal size are replaced with repair ones. The shaft will have to be turned to fit the repair size and balanced. If the wear is only on the liners, you can supply new nominal sizes. This completes the do-it-yourself repair of the supercharger turbine cartridge.After completing the repair, it remains to assemble the unit and put it in place. Remember to check that the retaining rings are firmly seated when installing them on the cartridge. If they do not fit into the nests, the structure will crumble during operation.Bushings, bushings and oil scraper rings of the shaft are lubricated with oil before installation. This ensures that there is no seizure on the first start.

Parts are assembled in the reverse order of removal in the previous step.

The impeller mounting nut is tightened with a force of 5 Nm, unless otherwise provided by the manufacturer's instructions.

The assembled device is placed on the engine and fixed with screws or stoppers.

There are not many photos from the pictures, since my hands are either covered in oil or are busy. there is a video, I don't know how to insert it, and in what format.

thanks for the video tip.
So, in the video there is a check of the turbine tightness.
as far as I remember that moment there was a very dense copper ring, and the gap at the junction was only just a few hundredths of a millimeter.
kept 0.5 atm. spinning from the flow of gases from the muffler.
and visually continuous air outlet

A turbocharger is located between the front wall and the rear of the engine below the exhaust manifold.1 - turbocharger;
2 - thrust and boost pressure regulator lever;
3 - boost pressure regulator;4 - inlet high pressure hose
collector.The turbocharger consists of 2 bladed discs on the same shaft. Engine exhaust gases pass through one of the discs, which increase or decrease the shaft speed depending on the engine speed. The second disc, located on the same shaft, directs the intake air under pressure into the combustion chambers, which increases the efficiency of the diesel engine. The high pressure fuel pump regulates the amount of fuel supplied. This is done by injecting more or less fuel into the charge air (depending on the boost pressure) (this is described in more detail in the section Diesel injection system).Boost pressure regulatorThe considered type of turbocharger is good in that it supplies air to the cylinders under pressure even at relatively low engine speeds. It follows from this that at high rpm the amount of forced air can be much more than necessary. The pressure in the compressor system would then rise to a level that could adversely affect the life of the engine. To prevent this, a boost pressure regulator is installed. It ensures, by closing the valve, that only a portion of the exhaust gas passes through the turbine blades of the compressor. This reduces the compression ratio and the pressure in the compressor system does not rise above 1.26 bar.A safety valve prevents the charge pressure from rising above 1.26 bar in the event of a damaged or overloaded charge pressure regulator. This valve is located directly in the intake duct and expels air through the air filter at overpressure.Recommendation: a diesel engine with a turbocharger is equipped with an additional electric pump that circulates the coolant when the turbocharger overheats, as well as when the engine is stopped. For a turbocharger, immediately stopping the engine after a long trip at full throttle is contraindicated. This can lead to premature coking of the bearings and lubrication passages of the compressor; The turbine wheel shaft bearing can be so hot that all the oil in the bearing is burned out and baked. Clogged lubrication passages will damage the compressor. Therefore, after a longer drive at full load, allow the engine to idle for a while before turning it off. Before replacing a faulty turbocharger, check the following causes of malfunctions: start of air supply; fuel supply, maximum load limiter, pressure in the turbocharger system, air filter and possibly existing leaks in the intake and exhaust pipes.Cleanliness must be observed when working on the turbocharger. Therefore: thoroughly clean the joints before disassembling; Place removed parts on a clean surface, cover with a clean cloth, install only clean or new parts, do not work with compressed air in the work area, and do not move the vehicle.

Disconnect the ground wire from the battery terminal.

Remove the plastic cover of the turbocharger.

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger.

Remove the support located between the engine and the turbocharger.

Disconnect the lower oil line from the turbocharger.

Loosen the coolant hose clamp and disconnect the hose from the turbocharger. Spread the clips apart with wire cutters and replace these clips with twist-on hose clips when reassembling.

Remove the cross-brace between the shock absorber struts.

Remove the pre-heater control unit.

Remove the brake booster vacuum pump hose and move it to the side.

Unscrew and remove the coolant recirculation hose and upper coolant hose with clamps.

Remove the air filter housing and take it out of the engine compartment.

Remove the intake manifold ventilation duct.

Remove the fastener between the turbocharger outlet and the piping to the radiator.

Unscrew the upper oil line. To have better access to the bolt, loosen the turbocharging pressure regulator bolt if necessary.

Remove the 4 bolts securing the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold of the muffler.

Remove the turbocharger with the compressor outlet from the engine compartment. To do this, carefully slide the compressor between the radiator reservoir and the vacuum pump.

Installation of the turbocharger is carried out in the reverse order of removal. When doing this, do not forget to replace the clamping clamps with screw clamps and use new self-locking nuts.

Pour some oil into the turbocharger connector before connecting the upper oil line.

Start the engine and at idle speed check all joints for leaks.

Recommendation: To ensure adequate lubrication of the turbocharger after removing or replacing it, use the following advice. Before starting the engine, disconnect the engine stop wire from the high pressure fuel pump and crank the engine for a few seconds with the starter until the oil pressure light on the dash goes off.Do-it-yourself turbocharger or turbine repair, principle of operation, causes of malfunctions and little-known nuancesEven in the last decade, an automobile turbine was considered an attribute of only premium cars, and today it is a necessary part for almost every car, which can significantly increase the efficiency of the power unit and reduce fuel consumption. And nowadays it is these characteristics that often become decisive when buying a new vehicle.Therefore, today it will not hurt any driver to get acquainted with the turbocharger device and learn to understand how it works and what kind of malfunctions there may be, which, in turn, will allow time to navigate and determine the malfunction in his car.Despite the apparent complexity, the turbine does not differ in many details. It consists of only three main sections: a turbine, otherwise called hot, working with the engine exhaust, a compressor, which is responsible for supplying compressed air to the motor, and a bearing assembly connecting them, which is more often called a cartridge, through which the rotor shaft passes.In addition, there is a control system, which in different designs of a turbocharger can be located in the hot or compressor part of the turbine. It regulates the action of the bypass valve of the device. The compressor impeller is mounted directly on the shaft, and the turbine impeller and shaft are one piece. The cartridge has seals to prevent oil from entering the snails. That's all there is to a car turbocharger.A seemingly simple mechanism in the event of a breakdown makes a tech-savvy driver want to do repairs on his own. This desire is especially stimulated by the cost of a new turbocharger, which varies in the range of $ 500-1000, and after repair it can amount to $ 540.The purchase of a used turbine can save the day, but who can guarantee its correct operation in the future.It should be noted that finding a specialist who could professionally repair a turbocharger is quite problematic. And if you find one, you often have to wait in line for several weeks. On the other hand, a driver who decides to make an independent repair is waiting for a lot of "pitfalls", it is difficult even for an inexperienced car enthusiast to imagine.It would seem that the principle of operation of a turbocharger is not particularly complicated. Exhaust gases from the power unit of the car spin up the impeller of the turbocharger, which converts the kinetic energy of the gas flow into mechanical energy. With the help of a pump through a filtering device, fresh air is supplied to the compressor and, after compression, enters the car engine. With the help of this process, it turns out to increase the efficiency of the power plant by 20-25 percent by increasing the efficiency and speed of fuel combustion.One of the "pitfalls" for those who decided to undertake repairs is the lack of understanding of the damping effect, which is closely related to the design features of the bearing evil of the turbocharger. This issue needs to be considered in more detail, since repair work without understanding it often leads to disastrous results.The design of the turbine initially provides for the need for damping due to the peculiarities of the operation of the car engine. Exhaust passes through the exhaust manifold and hits the turbocharger impeller in jerks, rather than gradually, in proportion to the opening of the powertrain valves. It turns out that the gas flow is inhomogeneous and acts on the turbocharger impeller with impulses.To compensate for such a heterogeneous effect, it would be necessary to design a rotor of increased rigidity, which would result in an increase in the mass and dimensions of the device. The problem was solved by the bushings installed in the bearing assembly, which create a damping effect on the side of the volute.The explanation is quite simple. The diameter of the bushing is chosen such that a small distance remains between it and the volute, which allows an oil film to appear during operation, almost the same as that formed in the gap between the bushing and the shaft. The rotation speed of the bushing is approximately half the speed of the shaft, and a pair of oil films successfully absorbs the uneven exhaust pressure on the turbocharger rotor.When repairing a turbocharger on your own, it may seem that there is excessive play between the cartridge housing and the bushing. Most motorists will consider this effect a malfunction, they will begin to grind a new bushing (usually a bronze one) and press it rather rigidly during installation. This is usually done by analogy with the bushings that are installed on the starter or connecting rod head, but in this situation, such an understanding will cause disastrous results.The turbine rotates at a very high speed, the disappearance of the second oil film will lead to a decrease in the damping effect by almost half, which, in turn, will cause rapid wear of the bearings. Sometimes in such cases, due to impulsive load, the rotor shaft may even break.In order for the rotating part to work as correctly and as long as possible, it is balanced. The most common example in this area is the wheel balancing process, which is carried out continuously after repairs affecting the wheels and chassis of a vehicle. Failure to do so will propagate runout through the steering system when looking at the front wheels. And in the version with rear wheels, even without any pronounced signs of imbalance, the tires may wear out prematurely, which will be visible on special spots.Do not forget about the increased load and accelerated wear of the suspension elements.

Of course, the impellers of the turbocharger are much smaller than the diameter of the wheels, but one should not forget about the rotation speed, which is many times higher for the turbocharger rotor and averages 100,000 rpm, and in some models reaches 300,000 rpm. If you remember physics, the load on a rotating element grows in proportion to its speed squared. So, if we take into account the high speed, the loads on the turbocharger rotor and the wheels of the car are quite comparable, and the lack of balancing often causes serious damage.Dismantling the bearing unit until the pressure of the bolts fixing it changes sometimes causes imbalance. Hence the obvious conclusion that it is unrealistic to balance the rotor at home, despite the correct replacement of all damaged elements. Accordingly, such repair work becomes meaningless, because the unbalanced turbine will again very quickly stop working.The turbocharger rotor is balanced on special equipment by experienced craftsmen in several stages. First of all, the rotor itself is balanced, then the cartridge is assembled and the entire assembly is balanced. Experts use two different devices for this process, one of which allows you to recreate the operation of a turbocharger in conditions close to real ones: pressure is created on the rotor, and oil of the required temperature is supplied to the bearing assembly.Once again, we note that it is impossible to balance the turbocharger rotor at home. Despite the technically correct replacement of all necessary elements and correct installation, the turbine will still be unbalanced, and it is obvious that this will quickly become the cause of its breakdown.The main signs of a malfunctioning turbine are a sudden drop in the power of the vehicle's power plant, increased oil consumption, a change in the sound of the engine and turbocharger, blue or black exhaust gases.Any of these signs indicate that it is time to check for a turbine repair kit. It is necessary to find out if the turbocharger is working properly, and also be sure to check the operation of the engine and other machine components. These recommendations should not be ignored, since the power plant of a car with normal operation and high-quality service is the key to stable operation of the turbocharger for a long time.Let us remind you once again that experts do not recommend repairing the turbine with your own hands without proper equipment. In addition to the above reasons, it must be said that if at least one grain of sand gets inside the turbocharger during assembly, it may fail. On the other hand, some car enthusiasts do repair the turbocharger themselves, why won't it work out for you?If you decide to start repairing, you will at least need a turbine repair kit, which usually consists of several different liners, rings, screws, a solid set of a wide variety of oil seals, washers, screws and spare liners. During work, you need to be as careful as possible and do not forget that it is always easier to disassemble than to assemble. It is advisable to mark the places where the various elements are attached, and their position in relation to the body or other parts.Before disassembling the turbine in artisanal conditions without experience in such matters, you need to once again weigh the pros and cons.In no case should sealants be used when installing pipes through the gasket; only high-quality gaskets are suitable for this. When the turbine is installed, you need to start the power unit of the car and let it idle for about 15 minutes. At this time, it is necessary to inspect for leaks of coolant or oil at various connections.The turbocharger runs about 1,000 kilometers, at this time it is impossible to accelerate the car over 100 kilometers per hour and change the driving modes abruptly.It is almost impossible to repair a turbine in artisanal conditions or in a standard car service. Qualified repairs with a guarantee can be done only by those workshops that are intended for such work. In such workshops there are devices for diagnostics of all units of any type of turbine at any stage of repair. Also, such a workshop should have equipment for preliminary and final balancing of the turbine rotor.A turbocharger, or turbine for short, is a kind of light engine that, during a "full breath", gives the whole body new strength. A turbine gives an engine of any modification a significant increase in power, as a result of which, with a small volume, the engine has much larger "horses" than a simple compression engine. The time comes and even the turbine breaks down; as a rule, it has to be replaced with a new one. On many Tradewinds, a standard K 03 turbine or a modified K04-15 is installed, the replacement of which will be discussed in this article. Turbine repair for Volkswagen Passat is a laborious and delicate matter, and not because it is a Passat, but because it is the turbine that has to be changed.So, we raise the car, drain the oil, simultaneously changing the oil filter and the fuel pressure regulator (recommended). Remove the air filter pipes. Having drained all the oil, we twist the plug in the sump and unscrew the bolts securing the oil return pipe from the turbine so that the pipe is free. Under the car, immediately remove the intercooler pipes and the bypass valve. Next, remove the top of the air filter casing and the protective sheet on the filter box. Disconnect the bundle of pipes from the turbocharger. Next, carefully disconnect the oil supply pipe and the cooling pipe from the cylinder block.As soon as you have done this, it is time to remove the catalyst, for which we unscrew 3 bolts by 17 mm, and three more of the same ones that hold the turbine itself on the exhaust manifold. That's it, now the turbine is supported only by the oil return pipe. For its final removal, one person must hold it on top, and the other unscrew the tube from the bottom. All, if you are not tired, you can put a new turbine instead of the old one. At the same time, change all gaskets and O-rings, clamps on the pipes.Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. One has only to take into account some of the nuances. So, for example, it is recommended to pour 20-30 grams of oil into the oil return pipe already screwed to the turbine. Use a torque wrench to check all bolts for tightness during assembly. Once everything is assembled, you can fill in antifreeze and oil.

Start the engine and keep it running at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes to fill the entire system with antifreeze. At the same time, check all connections for leaks. You can check the operation of a new turbine at speed, if everything is done correctly, you will feel the result immediately.Volkswagen Passat in various modifications has repeatedly become the center of attention of automobile exhibitions and became the "car of the year". Volkswagen first introduced the Passat in 1973 and was initially positioned as an inexpensive, reliable family car for the middle class. So it was until recently - the Germans even had a saying: "moved to the Passat", which meant "got married."But in 2014 with the release of the Passat 8 Image - DIY Passat B3 turbine repair

generation, everything has changed: the new car, designed, like the previous ones, on the basis of Audi, was presented by Volkswagen as a premium car. From its ancestors, the new Passat inherited a roomy interior and trunk, a powerful engine (most cars have a diesel equipped with a turbocharging system) and the high reliability characteristic of all Volkswagen in general.The appearance of the car has acquired great elegance, and the comfort in it has increased. Well, of course, the price of the new Passat has become much higher.

For the entire almost half-century history of the Passat, its fifth modification has become the most popular in Europe. It was this car that was destined to become in Russia the embodiment of the dream of a Russian person about a luxurious German car. Used Volkswagen Passat B5s brought from Europe were sold in Russia like hot cakes. And if the Passat B5 had a powerful and economical diesel engine, buying such a car in the late 90s - early 2000s was considered a great success.

It's funny, but the Germans themselves appreciated the fifth Passat for its completely different qualities: a spacious cabin, easily able to accommodate a family of five; wide trunk, which made the car an ideal vehicle for trips to the country and to a picnic; simplicity of execution, reliability and relatively low cost of maintenance.

In post-perestroika Russia, everything was exactly the opposite. So, for example, the repair of the Volkswagen Passat B5 turbine alone could cost the owner of the car at the cost of the whole engine. Affected by the shortage of original spare parts in Russia, the lack of tools necessary for the repair of diesel turbines, and simply the lack of specialists who are able to deal with this far from simple mechanism.

But, fortunately, outside the window, the second decade of the XXI century and the "treatment" of German cars, as well as the repair of their engines (including the Volkswagen B5 turbo repair of the turbine), has become much more affordable and, accordingly, its cost has come in line with European costs for similar needs.

Volkswagen Passat B5 -

Although the car is hardy and reliable, from time to time, like any other technique, it requires maintenance and repair. And it will be better if it turns out to be a preventive repair of a turbine on a Volkswagen Passat, as is the case with the already mentioned turbocharging system of the engine.

The turbine is one of the most vulnerable points of any diesel engine. Even a small grain of sand trapped under the turbine housing is capable of disrupting its work. Another reason that can lead to a Volkswagen Passat B5 turbine breakdown is its pollution. Oil baked on the surfaces of the turbine parts, fumes, as a result of the combustion of diesel fuel - all this not only changes the geometry of the turbine parts and leads to its imbalance, but such contaminants can, for example, clog the turbine nozzle, as a result of which air and fuel will enter the engine in insufficient volume. The consequence of this breakdown of the turbine is a drop in engine power and an increase in exhaust gases.

In this case, the repair of the Passat B5 turbine, the price of which will decrease, will consist only in disassembling the turbine, followed by thorough cleaning and rinsing in a special chemical solution of all its elements. The operation is relatively inexpensive and not time-consuming. It is another matter if, in the process of diagnosing a turbine, it turns out that some of its parts, or even more than one, needs to be replaced.

Buy original spare parts

for Volkswagen Passat B5 today is not a problem, it is another matter that they are relatively expensive. The so-called "analogues" are much cheaper, but an experienced craftsman will never offer you to put such an analogue on the turbine of his B5, because he knows: the quality of the "analogue" (accuracy of performance and strength of the material) is incomparably lower than the original and is unlikely to be repaired with the help of the "analogue" work perfect.

Another way to save money when repairing a turbine is to purchase the required part at a car disassembly site. It is likely that this will turn out to be an original Volkswagen part (an experienced craftsman will always distinguish a native part from an unknown manufacturer's part), but here you need to understand that this part has been removed from an old turbine and has already developed part of its resource. Which part - nobody knows.That is why no one will give a guarantee that your turbine will work with it for a long time. So it is better not to save on spare parts for the engine turbine.

The balancing of the repaired turbine should also be carried out in accordance with all the rules. Some unscrupulous craftsmen, having installed a turbine on a balancing stand, test it only at low speeds. But we know that in a running engine the turbine rotation speed can reach 200 thousand rpm, and how a turbine that has not passed the entire test cycle will behave under these conditions is unknown.

Video (click to play).