Do-it-yourself twinport repair on z16xep

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a twinport on z16xep from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello. a question such as how to correctly diagnose the hole deactivation sensor. Error P1113 (low voltage of the hole deactivation sensor) is understandable when it is available, it simply changed the entire flange assembly (this is so twinport, scientifically called). But when there is no error, but the engine is stupid and if To look at the data, when the ignition is on, it shows a 0.1V sensor. On a running machine, 4.5V, and with a very small overgassing, it decreases to 0.1V. How does one treat such a manifestation ??

Error "evil" pulls 15-20 thousand rubles Rarely. flushing the block helps. Generally - TIN! (For the owner of the car)

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Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xep

This4Me 06 Oct 2009

Error "evil" pulls 15-20 thousand rubles Rarely. flushing the block helps. Generally - TIN! (For the owner of the car)

Try sawing the ears of the twinport sensor and putting it in a position where the error is erased and does not appear. I don't remember exactly how much voltage on the sensor, but more than 0.1. (0.3-0.4 if the memory does not fail)

I managed to cure this once.

There is also an idea to connect a pull-up resistor in parallel with the sensor to increase the voltage at the sensor output. But haven't tried it yet.

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ELK 06 Oct 2009

More specifically, the fact is that 0.1v is the lower limit of the sensor's performance. A little lower - the ECU detects its malfunction. It is very problematic to file the ears because of the inaccessibility of the sensor. And the idea of ​​tightening to a level of, say, 0.15-0.2v has the right to life.

There is also an idea to connect a pull-up resistor in parallel with the sensor to increase the voltage at the sensor output. But haven't tried it yet.
Subscribe about the results.

Video (click to play).

Hello !! and what thought exactly came to you, I mean where exactly to put the resistor and how to calculate which one it was

Too lazy to write for a long time, so I'll just quote what I previously wrote on another forum about this:

Hello. Thank you very much. The client left, but I already have 3 cars like that, so as soon as I arrive, I will definitely try your advice. Especially thanks for the job description.

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ELK 06 Oct 2009

Hello. Thank you very much. The client left, but I already have 3 cars like that, so as soon as I arrive, I will definitely try your advice. Especially thanks for the job description.

By the way! My brother's car has been driving with my "collective farm" for about a year and a half without any complaints. Tfu 3 times over your shoulder!

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This4Me 07 Oct 2009

Hello. Thank you very much. The client left, but I already have 3 cars like that, so as soon as I arrive, I will definitely try your advice. Especially thanks for the job description.

Look at the yew how the resistor is connected there - on the + power supply of the sensor and on the middle leg, and select the nominal with a trimmer. I think within the range of up to 10 kOhm.

Help please, I have a Zafira-B, Z16HEP engine, made a summary diagnosis - TWINPORTa replacement or repair. Where or to whom you can contact with this problem, except for official dealers.
Thanks in advance.

can I not calm down? the fact that it continues to work all the time is a sign of a broken damper
aster sore ash. the locking mechanism breaks off and it scrolls all the time
does not interfere with life in principle, but it no longer does its function

loop, of course you can! we have freedom of speech.
But for a final conclusion, it is necessary to offer Oleg to check the work of the recirculation. Although, it seems to me, since last winter, he would have already noticed that the damper is not working as it should.
From the very beginning, mnu has a “underground” life of climate dampers, and so far (pah-pah-pah) all systems are working properly - both recirculation and distribution of flows.

can I not calm down? the fact that it continues to work all the time is a sign of a broken damper

But for a final conclusion, it is necessary to offer Oleg to check the work of the recirculation.

Well, what are you? So well we started to play naughty, but here it is. You already then advise how to check it. Damper and recirculation?

and it is not she who regulates the climate currents, this one just cuts off the supply of outside air.
breaks down in two "positions". if it is open, it will not block air from the outside when closing. Well, for a simple KAMAZ, you will stink - what if you press the recirculation button what without it
or breaks in some in the closed phase - then the windows sweat)
I put the charcoal filter on normal so the damper does not float me

... and it is not she who regulates the climate currents, this one just cuts off the supply of outside air.

Did I assert that it regulates the climate flows? Working " and recirculation and distribution of streams ”. The damper was mentioned exclusively in the context of the serviceability of its drive against the background of the “backstage” buzzing.
+1 to the verification link. Understandable and accessible.

You mean the windows sweat in winter or at any time of the year? fan or without it?

If there is no air intake outside, it will sweat in summer in damp or cool weather.
Stay out of the jungle of recollection and analysis. Turn on the 5-7 fan speed and press the recirculation button. A characteristic change in the sound of the air flow within 2-4 seconds indicates that the drive is working properly. If the sound does not change or changes slowly (more than 10 seconds), then it is worse - the drive is out of order.

Did I assert that it regulates the climate flows?

yes no of course)
I just clarified that Oleg does not bother with too much head

Oleg, even if he doesn't work - and it doesn't bother you - there is nothing mega scary there
the sore is so popular that, in fact, everyone has it. most do not even know that it is broken ..

Stay out of the jungle of recollection and analysis. Turn on the 5-7 fan speed and press the recirculation button. A characteristic change in the sound of the air flow within 2-4 seconds indicates that the drive is working properly. If the sound does not change or changes slowly (more than 10 seconds), then it is worse - the drive is out of order.

I just clarified that Oleg does not bother with too much head
Oleg, even if he doesn't work - and it doesn't bother you - there is nothing mega scary there
the sore is so popular that, in fact, everyone has it. most do not even know that it is broken ..

Well, already fsё. I now know this secret. And how can I sleep now?
In short, thanks for the advice, I'll try to test and accomplish my goal. The recirculation button is where the machine with the arched arrow is?

The recirculation button is where the machine with the arched arrow is?

Yes. Judging by the question, you have a filter, like loopa, real coal.

Yes. Judging by the question, you have a filter, like loopa, real coal.

in general, it is strange that the Opel did not squeeze it on the damper, but squeezed it on the air quality sensor, which automatically drives this damper. and there is wiring for it
The feature works fine on the Vectra.

Rek, Andryukha, so far nothing if the truncated normik will be filming next Sunday!

I think there will be no such repairs, prevention diagnostics!

nokiaf, do not forget to post the report.

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xepnokiaf 02 April 2011

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xepded m 03 April 2011

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xepnokiaf 03 April 2011

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xepnokiaf 03 April 2011

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xepDmitry Vladimirovich 03 April 2011

at love! there will be a visual aid

And where is the photo / video tutorial for removing TWINPORT?

Spa1derr, they can be dismantled altogether. Taking into account the fact that 1.5 tons from 1.6 starts to go from 2000 rpm and above = the presence of the entire system becomes questionable. If I faced a problem = I would remove the flaps altogether, and instead insert bushings to reduce the cross-section, say by 25..30%.
Thus, we would get an “imbalance” in the air coming through the same valves and thereby create a “drill” effect (which is exactly what the twinport does, BUT at low revs) in the entire rev range.
The only moment. Perhaps, with the bushing, the filling will deteriorate at speeds above 5500, BUT.This issue is negligible = basic motor range, “usually”, up to 5000.
But the effect of better mixing of benzyl and air should have a positive effect on dynamics and consumption.
We must try = it should turn out very well.

Shl. As an option = take a plastic hose (like a garden hose, select by diameter) and plant it on the axis of the dampers (for fixing). And it will not crash, and will work.

Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xep

,
here [2] - vacuum regulator, [6] - EGR valve. The picture for z14xep, for z16xe1 is mirrored: the vacuum regulator is located, when looking at the engine, in the upper right corner behind the motor.
Image - DIY repair of a twinport on z16xep,
here [2] the connector for the vacuum regulator.

At idle speed and when the vehicle speed signal = 0, and, therefore, in the parking lot, the control flaps are basically closed, the control rod is retracted, and a reduced pressure is set on the membrane of the vacuum ignition timing control mechanism.
During start-up, the control flaps are open, and after a short residence time (a few seconds) at idle speed at the vehicle speed signal = 0, the control flaps are closed.
The z16xe1 engine, unlike the z16xep, does not have a separate twinport flap position sensor. The fact is that it is located directly in the vacuum regulator, which opens and closes the dampers. Moreover, this is not a potentiometer, as on the z16xep, but a Hall sensor. If a membrane is torn, a leaky channel, a hinge has come off, a damper rod is broken, etc. - error 1112 is diagnosed.

This regulator changed at 125,000 km.
Opel 5850179 Kit, repair, vacuum pump
General Motors 93191221 Vacuum pump repair kit
Two years ago it cost 13,700 rubles, now it is quite inhumane 22,300 rubles.

Message spa1derr »09 Mar 2016 23:31

Good afternoon. began to knock out breakdowns in all cylinders. I changed the coil and candles, the sense is 0.
In general, it started after soldering the resistor into the wiring of the twinport. The car with the key left, the dynamics appeared, but the checks began to fly out. I wonder if anyone came across? I heard that this could be due to the filthy channels of the twinport ... Help. Tired of slowing down and erasing receipts every hour ... (
Sorry if it is not clear I wrote, I can in more detail.

Sent after 47 seconds:
Boo put the coil if that.

Message serg31011981 »10 Mar 2016 05:36 AM

Message FDutch »10 Mar 2016 07:32 AM

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 09:53

FDutch, Errors 0300/0301/0302/0303/0304/0314/0136. But most often he knocks out the first cylinder. Externally, both coils are flawless.

Sent after 2 minutes 3 seconds:
Vryatli in both coils breakdowns on all nipples at once.

Message FDutch »10 Mar 2016 10:01

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 11:57

Message FDutch »10 Mar 2016 12:13

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 12:18

Message griandrej »10 Mar 2016 12:35 pm

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 12:38 pm

griandrej, there is a problem with the diagnosticians! can you do this?
Interestingly, when the twinport is disabled, there is no such thing ..

Dispatched after 1 minute 48 seconds:
For example

Message griandrej »10 Mar 2016 12:52

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 12:56

Message griandrej »10 Mar 2016 13:00

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 13:02

Message griandrej »10 Mar 2016 13:26

Message spa1derr »10 Mar 2016 13:29

Message cimaks »11 Mar 2016 17:42

Message spa1derr »11 Mar 2016 18:07

cimaks, yes, the resistor was soldered due to this error! When removing the resistor, there are no such errors, only a car with a key! Can I remove the resistor and drive with p1113?
On the dynamics they appear every other time. then the norms are pulling, then as if from behind a dead horse they tied! With a blinking check - a clear emergency mode - no thrust !!
Externally, the coil is without breakdowns, now I've wrapped it with electrical tape, maybe I'll see breakdowns on it! Most often, a check on the first cylinder !!

Previously, the error was knocked out every couple of days, now every hour. Sometimes it also knocks out a check on the rear lambda, but very rarely.

Message cimaks »11 Mar 2016 22:36

The swirl flaps are rotated by means of a thrust from a vacuum drive. It, in turn, is controlled by an electrovalve connected to the engine control unit. A potentiometric type sensor is used as a sensor for the current position of the dampers, which is mechanically connected to the dampers pull.The readings of this sensor are the parameter by which the engine ECU concludes that the TWINPORT mechanism is working. The voltage taken from this sensor should be in the range from 0.1 to 4.9 volts. If within three seconds the controller fixes readings outside this range, then it is concluded that the Twinport mechanism is faulty and the error code P1113 is set.

To diagnose this malfunction, you need to use the OP-COM scanner and connect to the engine ECU in the Measuring Blocks mode. By monitoring the voltage from the sensor, you can make sure that it is working, and by manually stirring the draft of the vortex flaps, you can control the extreme values ​​of the calibration of the mechanism.

Typically, wear results in a miscalibration of the lower value (position) of the mechanism (the sensor outputs less than 0.1 volts), which leads to the appearance of error P1113 (06). To eliminate wear on the unit, dealers usually offer to replace the entire Twinport unit, which is quite expensive. However, if the wear of the assembly has not yet reached critical values, it is possible to compensate for the wear of the mechanism using various methods and re-calibrate the extreme positions of the mechanism.

There are three possible ways to accomplish this.

1. The thrust of the damper drive mechanism in the extreme position rests against the tube and the bolt securing the sensor to the engine. If this tube is made thicker or an additional thick plastic cambric is put on it, then the position of the calibration will change in the direction we need.

2. The second mechanical method was proposed by the master diagnostician Khokhlov Yu.M.
I remove the corrugation from the air filter to the throttle unit; under it is the vacuum drive of the Twin Port traction system. It is fastened with two screws, the front one is short, the back one is long.

I unscrew the front, weaken the rear. I rotate the vacuum actuator around the rear screw until the sensor voltage on the scanner reaches 0.5 V. Then I tighten the rear screw and check the tightness by rocking the actuator. The front screw will not snap into place, we can do without it! I put the corrugation in place. Everything!

3. The third method is electrical. Since the actuator position sensor is a potentiometer, an additional resistor can be connected in series to it, which will change the sensor readings by several millivolts. This will cheat the sensor end position calibration and the motor controller will not consider the mechanism to be faulty.

The TwinPort intake flaps and their actuator are located behind the intake manifold and are referred to in the parts catalogs as “intake manifold flange“. The dampers are used to control the flow of air entering the engine cylinders, depending on the engine operating conditions.

When the engine is operating at high load and at high speeds, the air dampers are open and air flows into the cylinders through both parts of the intake ports. The large intake port provides the cylinder filling required for high power and torque.

When idling and at partial loads, the flaps are partially or completely closed so that the intake air swirls in the center of the cylinder.

This increases the flammability and achieves stable combustion of lean mixtures, resulting in fuel savings.

A potentiometer is used to monitor the position of the intake flaps. Its signals are transmitted to the input of the engine control unit. If the signal is not plausible, the ICE control unit switches to emergency operation. At the driver's IPC, a typewriter with a key lights up (error P1113), the car noticeably "dulls" and fuel consumption increases.

Dealer GM recommends replacing the entire “intake manifold flange”. We, on a budget for the car owner, fix the error P1113, saving his money at times (!), And give a one-year warranty for the repairs performed.

Disassembled intake manifold Opel Astra H Z16XEP

Intake manifold noise Opel Astra H Z16XEP