Do-it-yourself uaz 452d repair

UAZ 452 "loaf" is a fairly reliable Soviet four-wheel drive SUV. The main breakdowns of this car are associated with leaks of lubricating fluids from the engine, gearbox (gearbox), front and rear axles, constant velocity joints (CV joints) and hubs. The main reason for the formation of such leaks is that the material from which the original seals and gaskets of the above units are made is partially corroded under the influence of modern lubricating fluids. Due to poor lubrication, moving metal parts are subject to heavy wear and must be replaced periodically. It is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance of the UAZ 452 at least once a year, change leaking oil seals and gaskets, and adjust the clutch.

The problem is that finding a factory manual for these SUVs is quite difficult. Therefore, we bring to your attention an instruction that will allow you to repair a car yourself.

As you know, the repair of a car engine begins with its dismantling. And only then disassembly, replacement of damaged parts and assembly is carried out. Overhaul of a power unit is not an easy task, so it is not worth doing it yourself, without the help of experienced craftsmen. But you can change the oil seals yourself.

The factory repair manual for the UAZ 452 car states: to remove the power unit, you need to lift it up from the engine compartment. With this method of dismantling, you need 2 strong pipes (longer than the width of the cab) and the help of 2 people.

That's it, the power unit is removed.

It is easy to check whether an engine overhaul is necessary: ​​you need to put your hand to the open oil filler neck of a running engine. If the palm pushes out, then disassembly is required.

Quite often, in UAZ 452 cars, the free travel of the clutch pedal is not adjusted. This leads to increased wear of the driven disk and the need to replace it early. Adjusting the clutch of a UAZ 452 car is quite simple.

Clutch drive design.

1. Clutch pedal.
2. Brake pedal.
3. Springs.
4. Oiler.
5. Thrust bearing.
6. Clutch.
7. Clutch spring.
8. Lever arm.
9. Adjusting bolt.
10. Fork.
11. Pusher.
12. Fork spring.
13. Traction.
14. Grease nipple.

Clutch Pedal Adjustment

The factory manual for the repair of UAZ wagon-type vehicles sets the following unit parameters:

• the gap between the pressure bearing and the screw heads of the levers - 2.5 mm;
• pedal free travel - 28-35 mm;
• full pedal travel - 145-155 mm.

Clutch adjustment is carried out as follows.

1. We measure the free and full travel of the clutch pedal with a ruler.
2. Remove the pedal springs and clutch fork.
3. We loosen the pusher nut.
4. Unscrew or twist the thrust end of the pusher until the recommended parameters are reached.
5. We tighten the pusher nut.
6. We put the springs back on.

After that, we check the combined and full pedal travel. If they correspond to the recommended parameters, we start the engine and check the operation of the clutch while driving. If it does not drive or skid, the clutch adjustment is complete. If something bothers you, we repeat the procedure until the desired result is obtained.

You can adjust the travel of the clutch pedal by changing the length of the lower links.

In order to facilitate access to the engine from the car interior, it is necessary to carry out a small modernization of the UAZ "loaf" body on our own.

In the wall separating the cab from the passenger compartment, there is a closed niche in which the rear of the engine is located.In this niche, you need to carefully cut a hole and install a homemade hatch on it. Such tuning of the UAZ "loaf" body with your own hands will save you from having to dismantle the cylinder head every time you need to adjust the valves or replace their pushers.

Step-by-step instructions on the topic cab for the UAZ 452 d - come on in. Do you want to learn how to repair a car with your own hands? Then watch the free tutorial.

How to repair a car with your own hands at home. We will help ourselves to repair and repair the car ourselves. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I attach a video instruction.

Category: Car repair

Laughter in the subject: In a student hostel, I saw an African who was frying something in a shared kitchen. The smell is pleasant, and the dialogue is something like this: - What are you frying? - Bananas. - (with bewilderment) ... why fry them? - And what am I, a monkey, to eat raw bananas.

Posted by Admin: at Michelangeloa's request

Car owner's rating: 1. Spacious interior for a height of 190 cm 2. Good handling in all modes 3. Easy refinement and the car has a modern look 4. Quite dynamic for 1.6 liters

published with permission of the author, source>

Well .. at first I went by car to all kinds of picnics, shalyki, fishing. Everything was cool, if not for some points:

• not everywhere you can go (good places are usually inaccessible for ordinary cars)
• where you can go - there are already whole hordes of vacationers with all the attendant
• you won't load too much
• after almost every trip there was a bill from the service for certain details, a special inconvenience was represented by bushes that scratched the car and its appearance was ditched specifically

I read forums and all kinds of reviews. I decided to buy a booze, tk. a large volume was required, I did not want to bang money into this venture, and in general, I did not know what the hell I needed all this for.

I searched for a long time, found on an ad for 1500 ye in Fryazino the necessary loaf “ideally and not rotten” :).
There was no question about the goat, tk. the car was supposed to be made for an expeditionary campaign with a bunch of junk on board.

At that time, there was no way to participate in the competition. Trips to nature with all that it implies. From 1 to 3 days.

Now trips from 3 to 20 days are a normal scenario.

With you, if necessary, take a satellite dish and a TV 🙂 So that it is not boring in the evening / at night 🙂

When I drove in and began to figure it out, a diagnosis was made - a complete overcooking. Moreover, I wanted to leave it on a standard loaf of rubber.

Then 35x12.5x15 wheels and disks turned up under the arm, and the task expanded beyond recognition. Looking ahead, if I had known how it would all end, I probably would not have taken it.

How to carry out tuning, improvement of standard springs on a UAZ 452 car. After this tuning, the carrying capacity will significantly improve, the springs will serve several times longer. For work, we acquire new root and root leaves, after we cut out the ears from the removed root and root leaves and insert one of the leaves between the root leaves, and the second under the three upper leaves.

Pay attention to the tool used, there is a lot of it, initially the UAZ is placed on the trestle for ease of use, a welding machine and a grinder will come in handy, prepare a degreaser and paint for the springs in advance.

Video tuning, improvement of the springs of the UAZ 452:

In the video, all actions are shown in great detail, text comments are inserted explaining all the actions taken. This tuning doesn't take 5 minutes, so be prepared to do some serious work.

UAZ 3741 - This is a four-wheel drive domestic utility vehicle, which in Soviet times was produced under the UAZ 452 index and for its characteristic body shape is called "Loaf". In the factory configuration, the car has an all-metal body, as well as a leaf spring suspension and two drive axles with non-locking differentials that transmit power to all four wheels.

Front-wheel drive is plug-in, rear-wheel drive is permanent. The bridges are unified with the 31512 model. The Loaf's carrying capacity is 850 kg. The ground clearance is 22 cm. Repair of the front axle 3741 is extremely rare, since its design is quite reliable. Basically, the repair is reduced to replacing the wheel bearings, as well as the oil in the differential, pivots and ball bearings. However, sometimes it is still necessary to remove the bridge. You have to do this yourself, since UAZ service centers do not work everywhere.

Since the UAZ 3741 has a frame structure, the front axle can be removed quite easily. To do this, you need to stock up on a powerful jack, stops that can withstand 1.5 tons of the front of the car, and WD-40 - liquid for unscrewing the nuts.

The procedure is as follows:

1. First, you need to install stops under the rear wheels of the car.
2. After that, disconnect the left and right brake pipes from the hoses that go to the front wheel drums.
3. Then you need to unscrew the nuts securing the brake hoses and remove the hoses themselves.
4. Next, unscrew the nuts securing the lower ends of the shock absorbers.
5. Remove the bolts connecting the pinion flange c. front cardan.
6. Then you should unpin the cotter pin, unscrew the nut of the ball pin of the bipod.
7. Disconnect the link from the bipod.
8. Unscrew the nuts that secure the ladders of the front springs, and remove the ladders with pads and linings.
9. At the end, you need to lift the front of the car by the frame and pull the bridge out from under the car.

When the old bridge has been removed, you can proceed to the installation of the new part by performing the reverse procedure. If necessary, the removed unit is disassembled, its troubleshooting is carried out, damaged parts are replaced, and then the bridge is returned to its place.

Most often, the cause of inadequate behavior of the car on the road is a violation of the axial clearance of the pivots. It is very simple to check its violation - you just need to raise the front end with a jack and shake the wheel up and down. When axial play is detected, the pivot clearance needs to be adjusted.

Adjustment steps:

1. We lift in front of the car, after placing the car on the handbrake.
2. We dismantle the wheel.
3. We unscrew the ball bolts securing the oil seal.
4. We check the axial play by swinging the structure up and down.
5. We unscrew a few bolts of the upper lining of the king pin and remove the lining.
6. We take out the thinnest gasket, put the pad back.
7. We carry out the same actions with the lower pad of the king pin.
8. We tighten the bolts and check the result. When the backlash is eliminated, we screw the wheel and the oil seal back - and we go. If there is still play, adjust it again by removing the thicker spacers.

UAZ cars are very popular in Russia, and in Soviet times the UAZ was out of competition - foreign SUVs were extremely rare in the Soviet Union at that time. But since the machines are often operated in difficult conditions, it is necessary to regularly repair components and assemblies, and repairing the UAZ engine is a relevant topic that interests many.

• motors are not complex;
• spare parts are available, and are in stock at many auto dealerships;
• engine parts are inexpensive.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk plant have their own characteristic "diseases", and not all car owners leave their "native" engine - they put internal combustion engines from other car models. In this article, we will consider the features of UAZ engine repair, typical engine malfunctions, as well as possible options for replacing UAZoav power units.

UMP began its history in 1944, when a joint-stock company was created by the order of the People's Commissar. At first, the plant produced small-displacement engines for charging batteries and mobile power plants, and the first automobile internal combustion engine rolled off the assembly line in 1969.

The motor was named UMZ 451, and had a lot in common with the power unit of the Volga GAZ 21. Since 1971, the internal combustion engine 451 was modernized, and it received the 451M index, this engine was awarded the "Quality Mark".In the late 70s and early 80s of the last century, the UMZ-414 ICE was installed on the UAZ 469 ("goat") and UAZ 452 ("loaf") cars, and since 1989, the UMP 417 with a capacity of 90 liters has been produced. With.

Until the mid-90s, all Ulyanovsk engines had a volume of 2.445 liters and a cylinder diameter of 92 mm. In 1996, the production of the UMZ-421 ICE began, this power unit was distinguished by a cylinder diameter increased to 100 mm and a large volume (2.89 liters). Since 1997, the Ulyanovsk plant has been supplying power units for GAZ vehicles, and these are models:

• 4215;
• 4213;
• 4216 in various modifications;
• Evotech 2.7.

The engine of the Ulyanovsk plant, model 417, is produced in various modifications, has an aluminum block and a cylinder head, 4 cylinders in one row, 2 valves per cylinder. "417th" engines have a carburetor fuel system:

• a single-chamber carburetor is installed on modification 417;
• UMZ-4178 is equipped with a two-chamber carburetor.

The technical characteristics of the UMZ-417 are as follows:

• volume - 2445 cm³;
• power - 90 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 92 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 7.1;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• type of fuel used - gasoline A-76.

The UMZ-417 internal combustion engine, in addition to 4178, also has other modifications:

• 4175 - an engine designed to use AI-92 gasoline (98 hp, compression ratio - 8.2);
• 10-10 - ICE with a block head from model 421 and with a rubber rear oil seal.

The UMZ-421 engine has been produced since 1996, it is installed on Ulyanovsk models:

Instead of stuffing box packing, this motor uses a rubber oil seal as the rear crankshaft seal. This motor has the following characteristics:

• volume - 2890 cm³;
• power - 98 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 100 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 8.2;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• the type of fuel used is AI-92 gasoline.

There is also a version of the internal combustion engine designed for A-76 gasoline fuel, the power of such a power unit is 91 liters. With. (respectively, the compression ratio is 7.0). UMZ-421 motors are equipped with K-151E carburetors.

The UAZ Patriot, which is widely popular in Russia, has been produced since 2005, but unlike all other Ulyanovsk-made cars, this model has no "native" engines - the SUV is equipped with ZMZ and Iveco engines. Only one type of gasoline engines is installed on the Patriot as standard - 3MZ 409.10 with a volume of 2.7 liters and a capacity of 128 liters. With. This engine has taken root so well on the UAZ that it is sometimes called the UAZ 409.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant are distinguished by their simplicity of design and high maintainability, and since UMP engines are simple, many drivers repair UAZ engines with their own hands. Overhaul is always carried out with the removal and installation of the power unit, disassembly and assembly of the internal combustion engine, so that the engine works for a long time after repair, it is necessary to correctly troubleshoot.

What to consider when doing self-repair:

We disassemble the removed engine as follows (consider the example of the UMZ-417 engine):

• disconnect the manifold assembly with the carburetor from the block head. The two inner nuts are most difficult to crawl, so you should use a socket wrench (standard nuts are usually 14 mm);
• remove the valve cover (6 screws or bolts);
• dismantle the distributor drive, remove the two side covers of the pushers;
• unscrew the nuts securing the rocker arm axle (4 pcs.), remove the axle. We take out the rods (there are 8 of them), and then the pushers (also 8 pcs.);
• we unscrew the cylinder head fastening nuts, dismantle the block head. The head can sit tightly, but you do not need to apply much effort to remove it, and when removing it, you should try not to damage the surface of the cylinder head;
• why do we remove the crankshaft pulley, turn off the ratchet. It can be unscrewed with sharp hammer blows in a counterclockwise direction;
• then the hub should be dismantled; to remove it, you must use a special factory or homemade puller.When dismantling, it is necessary to secure the crankshaft from rotation;
• the next step is to remove the pallet (oil sump). After unscrewing all the nuts, gently knock on the pallet with a hammer, and if the crankcase does not come off, you can pry it with a screwdriver, pushing it between the block and the plane of the pallet. You should not regret the gasket (it is still a replacement), the main thing is not to damage the surfaces of the parts;
• remove the oil pump, it is supported by four nuts;
• dismantle the camshaft cover (unscrew 7 nuts);
• we turn off the connecting rod nuts, dismantle the connecting rod caps, take out the pistons together with the connecting rods. It is necessary to dismantle one rod at a time and immediately bait the covers in place - the covers should not be confused with each other, they are not interchangeable;
• we unscrew the nuts of the main covers, dismantle the covers, take out the crankshaft assembly with the gear, flywheel and clutch;
• we turn the camshaft so that bolts appear under the holes in the camshaft. With a socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts by 12, dismantle the camshaft together with the gear.

Now it remains to disassemble the details:

• disconnect the manifold from the block head;
• dry up the valve;
• remove the clutch, gear and flywheel from the crankshaft;
• dismantle the gear from the camshaft;
• disconnect the pistons from the connecting rods.

Disassembly is complete, you can start troubleshooting parts.

Often on the old "UAZ" the motor completely depletes its resource, and then the car owners have a very reasonable question - how to replace the old engine. Installing an engine on the UAZ 402 is the most reasonable solution:

• the ZMZ-402 engine is more reliable than the "UAZ" one, and many such used engines in good enough condition are sold by hand;
• a minimum of alterations will be required for replacement - the Zavolzhsky ICE fits all mountings.

The "four hundred and second" engine has another very big plus - it will be the cheapest of all the proposed options that may exist when replacing the engine with a UAZ.

Installation of the ZMZ 406/405/409 engine on the UAZ will be somewhat more expensive. These motors are also suitable for mountings, but you will have to:

• deal with electrical wiring;
• adjust the front exhaust pipe.

In general, there are not very many alterations, but the 406 motors themselves are a little more expensive. There are UAZ car owners who install imported diesel engines on the car, but here you have to make a lot of changes to the design:

• remodel the exhaust system;
• digest motor and gearbox mountings;
• completely throw the wires;
• adjust the water connections in places.