Do-it-yourself ultralight repair

In detail: do-it-yourself ultralight repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

There is an ultralight Daiva.
The tip is broken off and therefore repair is needed. I see the most optimal one to connect
both parts with a thin titanium tube on epoxy.
Are there specialists?

Any "repair" option will be used as a temporary one, additional stress points will be added. If the tip is tubular, a fiberglass insert with an external epoxy wrap will go.

The fact of the matter is that the tip is not hollow. Only the tube will save you.
I also considered the issue of replacing the whip - the price is as for a new spin ((

On my first ultralight, I broke the tip from the tulip to the second ring, I just cut the stub to it. The system has become worse, sometimes there are overlaps, but it throws the same way. Knowing the price of the upper knee, I decided to leave everything as it is, it's better to take a new spin at a higher price.

I agree, you can do that, but I have experience of connecting fragments with titanium tubes. The result is excellent, but I have not been able to find the tubes for a year now, the trouble is with that.

tchk ru here on this forum this problem will be explained so that they will not cure the new one, the old solid will be taken out and a new one will be inserted

Thank you Dima, I'll try to communicate. True, I have a person who can easily order a new form in Japan and rearrange the rings with a tulip in a quality manner. But he immediately said, it will not be cheaper than buying a new spin in Moscow.

I went behind the back. So DAIWA PRESSO 60UL-SVF.
Length 1.83 m. Test 0.8-3.5 g.
Line power 2-2.5 lb.
Rod weight 110 g.
The length of the broken tip is 4.5 cm, from the point of the break to the second ring is 4.5 cm.

The best repair is to throw out the tip and put the tulip on the broken tip. A small increase in the test, but the integrity of the structure.

Video (click to play).

I am also thinking about it, if I don’t overshadow with a “brilliant” idea, or one of the masters does not offer an already tested technology for repairing such damage. I will rearrange the tulip ((

In such a place, whatever you do, the tuning will change and the tip will be loaded. And most importantly, you will never be able to relax when fishing with this spinning rod, constantly observing the place of repair. Place the tulip, if you want, you can rewind the ring, and that's it!

Thanks for the advice. quote: Originally posted by Green $ peace:

if you wish, you can rewind the ring

Do you mean to move the first ring after the tulip down so that it is in the middle between the tulip and the second ring? As I understand it, for a more even distribution of loads?

Yes exactly. But first, just a tulip and dough, maybe you don't have to do anything else. Good luck

quote: Originally posted by Green $ peace:

Yes exactly.

Thank you for your support, I have never done any repairs, but I think I can handle it.
Once again I was convinced that simple solutions are the most correct ones.

Maybe even an old tulip will fit. To remove it from the broken off tip, warm the gluing place with a lighter.

I just took a caliper from a neighbor, the thickness under the tulip is 0.2 mm less than the thickness of the break point. Will it be possible to sharpen a new place for planting a tulip by 0.2 mm with a fine skin?

Good day. Here is a link to we have a magician in our city, his name is Roman, he does everything for 5+, his nickname is Stradivary. Maybe it will work?

Andrey, thanks for the link. One of these days I'll write off with Roman, but the question is - how to give him spinning rods for repair? Maybe there will be some opportunity in Moscow, it would be great.

it is impossible to restore the previous characteristics of the spinning rod, even with the most skillful repairs. all the more so - ultralight. don't even hope.

quote: Originally posted by AlexCarrera:

don't even hope

I immediately understood this, but not to throw the spinning rod in the trash because of the loss of 4 cm of the tip?
Yesterday I flew in from the Volga delta and there I had to catch rudd on turntables of 2 and 3 sizes, since I did not have an easy back. In total, there are only 2 things. And after a more or less normal repair of a broken Dive, I can at least throw 0 or 1 without problems ...

quote: Originally posted by eaero:

I immediately understood this, but not to throw the spinning rod in the trash because of the loss of 4 cm of the tip?
Yesterday I flew in from the Volga delta and there I had to catch rudd on turntables of 2 and 3 sizes, since I did not have an easy back. In total, there are only 2 things. And after a more or less normal repair of a broken Dive, I can at least throw 0 or 1 without problems ...

alas, but it is so. Daiva's politics leaves you no other chance. Other companies, such as Graphiteleader or Hertie Rise, sell whips for 23 times the price of a spinning rod, and Daiva suggests simply buying a new one.

rearrange the tulip below, but you get just a different spinning rod. If you like him, you can catch them - why not.

quote: Originally posted by AlexCarrera:

rearrange the tulip below

Thanks, and I'm going to do so.

quote: Originally posted by eaero:

Thanks, and I'm going to do so.

most importantly, if the tulip will not fit, do not cut the blank.

Now I looked at the wreck again. the tulip feels a little thinner than the place where it needs to be reinstalled.
After all, I was going to slightly reduce the thickness of the new tulip planting site with a zero-grain skin (If this is unacceptable, what should I do?

you need to buy a tulip by size.
take the tip of the back and pick up the right size tulip in the store.
should not fit vnatyag, but smoothly or a little backlash.

Do you need to pick up a tulip of the same company (quality)?

Thanks Green $ peace.
Exactly Fuji SiC, now I looked in the Daiwa catalog and everything was confirmed right away.

Good day! Today we will talk about spinning rods, or to be more precise, about their tip. We all love to fish and sooner or later our rods break, this is a common thing. we are talking about this very part of the rod.

So what is the tip of a spinning rod? The tip of a spinning rod is, in other words, the end of the rod, very thin and fragile, which provides its flexibility, and in some cases it can even signal a bite, but this is only with a large catch.

Without this part, our tackle will most likely break if a large fish bites. We will not dwell on the concept of a tip in detail, since every fisherman knows what it is.

But what to do if it still breaks down? Of course, tip breakage is the worst option, with the exception of fatal rod breakage, but don't panic. There is always a way out.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

The first is a complete replacement if the tip cannot be repaired.
The second is manual repair.

First, determine the degree of damage to your tip, is it worth it to fork out and take a new one, or can it be repaired?

Consider the first method - a complete replacement of the tip. The moment the fisherman realizes that this part of the rod cannot be repaired, he begins to think about buying a new tip. The choice of tops is huge and you need to be able to choose the right ones.

Your action plan should be as follows:

Determine the model of your spinning rod;
Determine the diameter of the tip;
Go to the store and consult with a specialist;

You don't have to do too much, these three are enough. You can do it differently - in a simpler way. Take your spinning rod with you and go to the store to find the right part for your model. The first method is quite simple: you take a rod, take it to you, replace it - you pay.

The second method, that is, manual repair, is better than the first. It would seem that it is easier to buy a new spinning tip than to tinker with yourself. But it wasn’t there, it’s worth buying a new part only when it’s impossible to fix it in any way. In all other cases, your own hands and head will help you.

By repairing yourself, you will eventually develop a skill that will be useful to you later.

For example, on a fishing trip, when you do not always have tools with you, you can easily fix the tip of a spinning rod with the help of scrap materials.And special craftsmen can earn money by repairing the tips and not only them, but also whole rods, because they have experience in this thanks to their own labor.

In general, the repair of the tip is as follows:

Pick up the tip, preferably without rings, but if it so happens that it still has rings, then carefully cut the glued part and remove them.
Correct selection is also necessary in order, otherwise the load on the blank will be unevenly distributed.
Visually determine from which ring most of the broken back needs to be inserted.
Under the place of attachment of the ring we need, we need to clean it with some tool (grinder or small foot). This is done so that the carbon does not delaminate.
Take a super glue (preferably one that makes the best contact with the plastic) and pour it into the carbon part. We ground the pre-prepared fiberglass part a little and then insert these parts one into the other.
We tightly wrap the gluing place with black thread.
Apply glue to the wound thread to strengthen the connection and seal.
Wait for the glue to dry and your tip is ready.

Lead ring

Regarding the preparation of the tip, it should be taken into account that the rings must be taken from the same spinning rod and, using the priming principle, we prime the required part of the ring and the surface of the whip, we wind it with a thread and cover it with glue on top.

The distance between the rings can be adjusted by yourself, although it is advisable to proceed from the original dimensions.

You can finish the thick part of the whip with a small boot to match the diameter in the carbon part.

There is also another repair method in which the length and characteristics do not change:

First, you need to pick up a dense, but flexible twig, suitable for the role of a connector (in no case put solid rods or needles, because when you bite, your tip may break again).
The rod should fit snugly into both ends of the broken tip. After you are convinced that a good connector is selected, proceed to the preparation of the epoxy resin. This resin can be purchased at any market or store. It consists of glue and hardener.
Then they need to be mixed in the same proportion: 1 to 1. If you have problems with proportions, then the tubes probably have instructions. Glue both ends of your rod with glue, insert into both ends of the rod and connect the broken end to the main rod.
After that, wait 30-40 minutes until completely glued. In principle, these are all ways to repair the tip of your tackle.

Problems will bypass you, provided you follow these instructions. This concludes the story about the tops of the spinning rod. All the most important and necessary things were described in this article. Happy fishing and a big catch!

Good day. All of us have at least once, but fishing was spoiled by a breakdown of a spinning rod or fishing rod. Not so long ago, this trouble happened to my friend, who is also a fishing partner and a robot colleague. Since last year I also experienced bitterness from the breakage of the rod and then the joy of its restoration, I decided to help a friend in his misfortune and share with you a "recipe" for repair that I found on one Internet resource.

Here is a link.

Looking ahead, I have compiled a list of what we need for repairs:

electrical tape or masking tape;
food plastic wrap or cellophane bag;
file and fine sandpaper;
elastic band (it is better to have a round section);
a caliper for measuring the diameter of the blank and the wall thickness at the fracture site;
epoxy resin
two syringes for easy mixing of resin and hardener;
a paint brush or a screwdriver (flat) for applying resin to the bonding site, but still, the brush is more convenient)));
Cyanopan glue;
a sheet of thick thin paper (I used thick journal paper);
thread or thin braided cord;
nail polish remover.

And so let's start.

Below I will provide the text of the article, which I will supplement with my photos and comments.

Graphite is a brittle material, which is why spinning rods break down not so rarely. The blank can be critically overloaded during a hasty game of trophy, or broken by negligence during transportation in a boat or car. There are many reasons, the result is one - a ruined favorite instrument and a spoiled mood. By the way, this fate befell most often the upper knee. If the stick is expensive, from a well-known brand, you can order a new tip from the dealer, but it will take a lot of time and the shipping cost will cost at least half the cost of a new spinning rod. You can contact a company repair shop, there, too, they will take a lot of money for repairs, and this service is available only to residents of several megacities. You can try to restore the form yourself.

How to do it at home? This is what will be discussed.

Where to get the graphite material for the band? It is not specifically sold anywhere, and aircraft modelers use a completely different type of graphite material with cross-laid fibers. At one time, this question baffled me firmly, nevertheless, the required material is always at hand. We need a "donor". I have it an old composite telescope "Volzhanka" (or rather, its butt knee). Any piece of unnecessary graphite fishing rod or spinning rod will do. “I decided this question by chance in one of the stores when I saw graphite (probably graphite) tips for rods about 50 cm long at UAH 15 each, they differed from the usual ones made of fiberglass at a price of 1.5-2 UAH pcs. and the fact that when annealed, the fiberglass will be shaggy, and from this tip two ribbons are obtained, one looks like a mesh and the other looks like a fabric made of unidirectional fibers (photos 1 and 2) "

From it we cut off the workpiece of the required length (according to the width of the future band) and, holding it with tweezers, gently anneal it on the fire of the gas stove. “Be sure to anneal in a well-ventilated room or on the street, because when epoxy burns, fumes, soot and an unpleasant odor are released. Relatives will definitely not like it)) »The epoxy resin burns out, and we get a clean graphite fabric with a very thin substrate
fiberglass between layers.

"In the second photo: from top to bottom, the" graphite "tip, the mesh that was most likely used to reinforce the blank and the so-called" graphite "fabric"

After cooling down, carefully disassemble the "fire victim". We are interested in a tape of vertically oriented graphite fibers, stitched with separate transverse threads. "In my" fire "there were no transverse threads" The thickness of such a fabric is usually 0.2 -0.3 mm. If the fabric falls apart, it can be lightly moistened with a spray bottle.

Preparing the form for gluing. If a pass ring is installed next to the fracture line (and this happens most often if the destruction occurred from overloading the blank), it must be carefully removed. After repair, it must be installed on the fracture line. From the blank at the place of repair, the varnish and decorative coating are removed to clean gray graphite fabric. This is best done with a diamond file and fine emery paper.

Photo 4 "I cleaned the place where the bandage was applied with fine sandpaper"

The next step is gluing the form. He needs to return the original geometry, the fracture areas at both ends should coincide with each other, and the blank should be perfectly straight. “That is, DO NOT CLEAN AND DO NOT ALIGN the ends of the blank, as the ends of the blank have broken, so let them remain, with steps and curvature." It plays the role of a guide and is made of thick tissue paper rolled into a tube.

photo 5 "I used thick journal paper")

The insert extends a couple of centimeters to both sides of the fracture and weighs practically nothing.“Based on bitter experience))) I strongly recommend that the paper insert not be made too long. Why? But because the paper becomes sour from epoxy as well as from water, and if the imposition of a bandage made of graphite drags on a little and the paper breaks from careless movement, then you can condemn yourself to picking out the paper from the insides of the form and start all over again. ... Yes, I completely forgot that I put the paper insert on Cyanopan glue, otherwise the paper insert will simply fall inside "

We glue the blank with any "five-minute" epoxy resin. “I used ordinary epoxy, which I bought in a store for 17 hryvnyas with a penny and bought syringes at a pharmacy for ease of dosing.

Before gluing, it is necessary to measure the wall thickness of the blank, this is necessary to calculate the thickness of the repair band. When the form is glued together, remove the excess glue and the remnants of the varnish coating on the working area with a file, its length with a simple fracture is equal to 8 diameters of the blank at the site of destruction. If there are linear cracks - plus one centimeter to both sides of their end. We mark the boundaries of the site on the form with pieces of masking tape. "Photo 7 shows that I used the tape incorrectly - this is my mistake, but about it later."

It remains to apply a repair bandage. Its width is equal to 6 diameters of the blank at the fracture site, and its thickness is 30-50% greater than the blank wall thickness. For example: the wall thickness of the blank in the destruction zone is 1.5 mm, and its diameter is 8 mm, the width of the band will be 44-50 mm, and its thickness is -2 mm. It is possible to make a bandage obviously thicker, so it is more convenient to work, and then simply remove the excess material with a file.

The next step is the application of a repair bandage. A strip of carbon cloth is lubricated with epoxy resin and wound around the repair area in several turns. On top of it we put a piece of thin plastic food wrap (food in the store is wrapped in it and it is always at hand). "But here it is better to take not a film, but a cellophane bag, it is easier to separate it from the gluing zone"

We take a small piece of round rubber thread and fix it with a simple knot in the middle of the bandage. Then, stretching it, tightly coil to coil we wind it from the middle to the edges and fix it with knots. "I fixed it with electrical tape, and there is one more nuance after we wound the elastic band and fixed it. MANDATORY check the geometry of the blank so that it is perfectly straight"

“Well, now about the error mentioned above. When sealing the bandage with an elastic band, excess resin will flow onto the form, so I advise you to make the boundaries of the bonding area on the photo 7 form as wide as possible so that all excess glue remains on the electrical tape or masking tape, and not on the form as I did "

At the same time, all excess resin is squeezed out of the gluing zone and the graphite fibers of the shroud are compacted. Its material in terms of resin content will be as close as possible to the material of the blank itself. There should not be a single gram of excess weight in the repair area, and the graphite of the lining will have maximum elasticity. When the epoxy resin has almost completely "stood up", remove the rubber and plastic wrap and with a rag moistened with acetone, remove the excess glue that has not completely hardened. Let the form dry completely within 24 hours. Then, with a file, we bring the thickness of the bandage to the required one and round off its ends (for aesthetic reasons).

photo 11 “this is what happened after removing the rubber band and film”

photo 12 “this is what happened after processing with a file and fine sandpaper”

It remains to install a passage ring on the fracture line. We fix its foot in the desired position with a drop of "second" glue or a rubber ring (put on the form in advance before repairing) and carefully, turn to turn, we tie it to the blank with a thin synthetic thread.A fly tying thread is best suited for this, it is sold in almost all fishing stores, you can replace it with a piece of thin braid, having previously removed a layer of fragile paint from it with a solvent. If the installation of the ring is not planned, the repair bandage must also be strengthened by winding the thread, in an area equal to 4 diameters of the blank at the place of repair. On top of the wound thread, the bandage and stripped sections of the blank are covered with a thin layer of epoxy varnish.

The repair is over. The blank weight has increased by only a few grams, the correct tuning and tactile sensitivity "in the hand" are preserved. The thickening of the spinning rod at the place of repair, if a passage ring is installed on it, will be noticeable only with a meticulous examination.

In conclusion, a few words about epoxy used in repairs. It makes no sense to use domestically produced resin for the application of a repair bandage. She is afraid of water and ultraviolet sunlight. Under their influence, it becomes cloudy and softened. Imported five-minute hardening resins are also not suitable, it polymerizes very quickly and the graphite fibers do not have time to soak in it. Requires a resin with a "set" time of at least 40 minutes and is resistant to water and light. For these purposes, epoxy glue and varnish designed for rod builders are ideal. I use resin and varnish produced by FLEX COAT, purchased in a fishing store (200 rubles for 200 g of resin, ideal in terms of quality), there are also analogues from other manufacturers on sale.

In this way, over a dozen broken spinning rods have been restored by me in recent years. “I have repaired two spinning rods so far))” According to the reviews of comrades, the repaired blanks in operation practically do not differ from the new ones.

Far Eastern Fishing Forum

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Message realmorfey »June 29, 2014 11:21 am

In the life of every spinning angler, unfortunately, there are times when his fishing gear breaks down and you have to repair the spinning rod with your own hands.

This is especially offensive when a breakdown occurs at the very beginning of fishing. In this case, the possibilities to repair the rod are very limited. Modern materials from which spinning rods are now made require some preparation and some time in order for the repair to be of high quality.

Every seasoned fisherman knows that fishing rods need to be treated as carefully as possible, and they are not intended to be pushed away from the shore, if fishing is from a boat, or for other, uncharacteristic tasks. However, sometimes situations still arise, after which you have to think about how to repair a broken spinning rod. The most common ones:

Sloppy carrying spinning rod in working order tip forward. This can lead to the fact that you accidentally "stick" it into a tree trunk or into the ground. In most cases, this leads to the need to repair the tip of the spinning rod.
Using lures that are too heavy, those that exceed the upper value of the rod test. In this case, with an amplitude casting, the spinning rod can simply break (fold).
There are often cases when the assembled spinning rod is placed on the ground and on them are coming, or lean against the car with the door open, and they are broken when it is slammed.
Accidental hit with blank on the side of a boat or the railing of a bridge may crack. High-tech and expensive spinning rods made of graphite materials are especially afraid of such shock loads.

It should always be remembered that fishing with a broken rod automatically turns into an ordinary rest by the water.

Of course, sometimes there are rod breakages in which they have to be thrown out, or given to a professional for masters - rodbildersspecializing in the repair and assembly of a wide variety of forms.

But more often, nevertheless, damage to the spinning rods occurs, which almost every fishing lover can fix. For instance:

Rod tip fracture.
Damage to the guiding rings and tulip.
Fracture of the form in the middle part (his knee).
Damage or deterioration of the handle.

Let's take a closer look at how you can repair a spinning rod with your own hands in these cases.

Very often you have to do the repair of a spinning rod with your own hands due to top breakage... This is a double nuisance, since the tulip is located here - the final passage ring, which takes on the main loads.

The tops, depending on the material and design of the rod, are hollow and monolithic. The method of its repair depends on this.

In this case, there is the ability to merge the top with the main part of the letterhead. This is done like this:

For installation inside and connection of both parts, it is necessary to select rod of suitable size... It should roughly match the bore's ID. It can be a resilient metal or carbon rod, a sewing needle, etc.
Both parts deburred and degreased.
Fitted insert and ends of the parts to be joined grease with epoxy glue.
Everything connect and let it dry.
In order to increase the reliability of the connection, the joint can be varnish... The color of the varnish for repairing a spinning rod can be any color, including colorless. The main thing is that it is of high quality, with good water resistance.

When repairing a spinning rod with hollow top, there is no need to rearrange the tulip, the main thing here is to place it in line with the rest of the rings.

In this case, there are two repair options:

try to connect both parts;
remove and rearrange the tip from the tip to the main body of the blank.

In the first case, you need to choose an elastic tube of appropriate diameter, into which both parts can be firmly inserted, and secure this connection with epoxy glue.

carefully heat the tulip base using a hair dryer or lighter;
remove it from a broken off tip;
with a file fit inside diameter the base of the tulip under the diameter of the remaining tip;
with epoxy glue make a connection tulip and tops;
for greater reliability, you can wrap the junction with strong thread and fill it with varnish or the same epoxy glue;
after the glue dries, we get, albeit a little shortened, but quite functional spinning rod.

All the described manipulations for repairing a broken tip will probably slightly change the action and length of the repaired spinning rod, but they will keep it in service and give you the opportunity to go fishing with it more than once.

Spinning ring repair, to which the tops also belong, most often have to be done in connection with their failure and loss of functional qualities. In this case, do-it-yourself spinning repairs are best done at home, having prepared in advance. Before starting the repair, you need to: equip an appropriate workplace, purchase a new set of rings with a tulip, prepare glue and tools.

Repair of a spinning rod associated with the replacement of rings should be carried out in the following sequence:

Heating the base of the old rings, remove them from the rod.
The places on which the new rings will be attached are processed with fine sandpaper and degreased.
Using epoxy glue, secure the new rings tightly.
For a tighter fixation, we put a bandage on top and, after the glue hardens, cover the attachment point with varnish.

When replacing rings, it is very important to keep them in line.Alignment must be observed.

Breakage of one of the spinning knees, this is one of the most serious injuries... In this case, to replace it, it would be rational to find new inexpensive knee in a fishing store.

If this was not done, then you need to try to restore the knee. Repairing spinning rods in such cases is similar to repairing their tips:

If the knee is hollow, we select an elastic rod of the appropriate diameter to insert it inside the knee. If it is monolithic, then it is necessary to choose a suitable tube into which we will insert both parts of the broken element.
We clean both parts from burrs, damage and degrease them.
The connection is made using epoxy glue.
Let the glue dry and cover the element with varnish.

If hollow knee, when repairing a spinning rod with your own hands, at the junction of broken parts, you need to apply additional bandage - we apply several layers of nylon thread and cover it with the same glue. This will add extra strength to the joint.

Sometimes there are times when the form receives damage to its top layer or crack... Most often this is fixable. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the spinning rod with a thin sandpaper along the entire length of the damage, adding one more centimeter on each side, then cover this place with a thin layer of good waterproof glue and wrap it with a dense layer of nylon thread. After the glue has dried, cover the thread layer with the same glue and apply the second thread layer. You need to repeat this procedure three times. After that, apply a layer of varnish. Thus, you will get a fairly reliable tire, which will allow you to use the spinning rod more than once for its intended purpose.

Often, under the influence of external factors, they begin crumbling cork handles spinning rods. In order not to lose it completely, its repair should be started as soon as possible:

Several wine or champagne corks must be broken and rubbed into crumbs.
We mix this crumb with waterproof glue.
The resulting mass must be filled in all chips and irregularities formed on the handle.
After the handle is dry, it must be processed with a file and sandpaper.

The handle, restored in this way, will be able to perform its functions for a long time to come.

Find out from the video how to repair a spinning rod with your own hands if the tip of the spinning rod is broken:

The possibility of its further operation depends on how and how well you can repair the spinning rod with your own hands, or with the help of a specialist. The repair done carefully, without haste, using high-quality materials, although it will change the appearance of the rod and some of its characteristics, will return it to its previous performance.If a spinning rod breaks down, there is no need to rush and order broken parts: knees, tip, reel seat. Some of the damage can be repaired by yourself by making repairs to the spinning rod with your own hands.In order to repair the spinning rod with your own hands, you must first of all prepare the tools and materials:

sharp painting knife;

gas-burner;

lighter;

pliers;

small file;

sandpaper size 1000;

cloth for metal;

Cuts of carbon fiber rods of various lengths and diameters for repairing a damaged or broken spinning rod;

adhesives - waterproof PVA, epoxy, "Super-glue" gel, for fixing bandages, passage rings, handle repair;

waterproof transparent varnish;

nylon thread for fixing the installed pass rings on the blank, masking the place in which the spinning rod broke;

a set of access rings;

corks from bottles of wine or champagne.

Repairing the tip of a spinning rod differs for a number of reasons from repairing a similar damage to the butt or second knee. Its inner diameter is either very small (it is extremely difficult to find a suitable insert), or the tip is solid (it does not have a cavity for a spigot repair connection). Any increase in the rigidity of the tip will lead to a change in its sensitivity, worsen the casting distance, and negatively affect the game of the bait. The insert installed in the tip breaks the thin walls from the inside under load, completely disabling this part of the rod.

Therefore, in order to eliminate this breakdown, you should resort to another more delicate method of repair:

With this method of repair, the place where the tip of the spinning rod broke is almost imperceptible, and the rod itself retains its strength, flexibility and other important properties.

Among all the materials used for the manufacture of the handle in the spinning rod, one of the most common is cork. Possessing many advantages (softness, a pleasant-to-touch surface, the ability not to solidify in cold weather), this material has one big drawback - with prolonged use, pits, cracks, chips form on it, leading to the destruction of the handle over time.

Grind the cork from the wine bottle on a fine grater to the state of fine shavings;
Mix the resulting shavings with PVA glue, fill all defects with the resulting composition;
After the glue has dried, we grind the surface with fine emery paper;

Instead of this composition, you can use a matching wood filler

We cut out the damaged piece, making a rectangular notch in the cork cover of the handle;
From the cork, which does not have internal cavities, we cut out a piece (insert) slightly larger than the recess in size;
Lubricate the recess and insert with waterproof PVA glue;
Press the insert under force into the recess, fix it with electrical tape;
After 12-14 hours, remove the electrical tape, cut off the part of the glued-in insert protruding above the surface of the handle with a sharp knife;
We clean the handle with fine sandpaper.

Often, the inner cermet liner breaks down in the guide ring. The repair process for such an element is very simple:

We buy a set of rings of different diameters with inner inserts of the same or better quality as on the rod;
We select a passage ring with a suitable diameter;
Using a sharp knife, carefully remove the inner cermet insert from its metal frame;
Remove the damaged insert from the frame with pliers, clean its inner surface with a small file;
We insert the new insert into the prepared frame of the pass ring, fix it by gluing it on both sides at the junction with the frame with super glue.

In case of a breakdown such as a cracked support leg or wire frame, it is better to replace the ring with a new one.

Replacing rings consists of the following simple manipulations:

It is better to start replacing the lower large ring, gradually moving towards the top;
In order to remove the ring, heat the place of its attachment to the blank over the lighter until the varnish softens the fastening winding of a thin nylon thread;
With a sharp knife, cut the winding layer parallel to the plane of the blank;
Remove the winding and the ring;
We clean the place from the remains of varnish, winding, degrease;
Apply some epoxy glue;
We install a new ring, fix it tightly, winding a nylon thread over it with even turns;
Apply a layer of colorless waterproof varnish on top of the thread;
In order to remove the last ring - a tulip - a thin wire is hooked to it, it is heated over the flame of a candle, while trying to pull the ring off the top with a wire.

Among the most common coil malfunctions and how to fix them on your own, you can highlight:

Noise inside. Disassemble the spool, remove sand, dirt from the drive mechanism, check the bearings in the handle and spool, replace if necessary.

Jamming of the rotation mechanism under load. Replace the gears of the drive mechanism with new ones;

The bow spontaneously snaps into place when casting. Tighten the shackle screws. If this does not fix the malfunction, change the spring, which is responsible for locking the bow, to a more rigid one;

The backstop does not work. It is necessary to lubricate the overrunning clutch, which is responsible for the operation of the mechanism;

Creak. It is necessary to add grease to the inside of the coil body;

The line gets under the front clutch nut, breaks off. Change the thick felt gasket under the nut to a thinner plastic one.

These methods will allow you to effectively repair the coil with your own hands, eliminating serious problems, extending the life of this expensive component of the spinning tackle.