DIY repair of fur boots

In detail: DIY repair of fur boots from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Time is indicated in Novosibirsk (GMT + 7)

Orders on the site are accepted at any time.

Manufacturing technology of fur boots

Bukharov Anatoly Pavlovich
"At work"
1965. Linocut.
An important place in the traditional activities of reindeer breeders is occupied by the dressing and processing of reindeer skins. A woman in linoleum engraving is engaged in the processing of kamus for the manufacture of fur shoes and patku bags.

In a frosty winter, you involuntarily recall the soft, warm high boots that reliably warm your feet, preventing them from freezing. What standards should such shoes meet, and what stages of production does it go through ?! The history of the technology of sewing high fur boots goes back to the distant past, which has practically not changed to this day. Until now, the production of high fur boots is mainly manual work (only linings are sewn on sewing machines), therefore, a lot depends on the skills of the master and on his attitude to business.

Good fur for high fur boots should be thick, smooth, elastic. A variety of materials are used for the manufacture of high fur boots: elk fur, red deer, cow hide, foal skin, but the most common is deer kamus. Camus is the skin removed from the lower part of the animal's leg, it is carefully selected so that the left fur does not differ from the right one in color and nap. Now, quite often, in the production of fur boots, not only deer, but also horse skins are used. The period of wearing and the service life of the fur boots depends on the manufacture of the camus. High boots made of well-made and well-cut kamus will serve you for a long period of time.

Video (click to play).

Chukchi old method.

Dressing skins for a kitchen (outerwear for men):
1. Rip off the skin of the deer;
2. Dry it in the sun;
3. Moisten with water (brewing);
4. Scrape out the upper skin (it is difficult to work with it);
5. Wet again, keep for 2-3 days. Moisten and wrap with the skin inward so that it does not dry out;
6. If it gets wet well, rub it with a special “tool” (a stone attached to a piece of wood) so that the skin becomes soft.

It takes about half a day to rub until dry. But so that the sun does not outstrip - and the skin does not dry out in the sun.

Deer kamus making technology.

The technology for making kamuses, like any other type of skins, consists of several sequential operations:

Soak. Table salt (a handful of salt per liter of water) and one or two pinches of washing powder (soap shavings) are diluted in water. If the water is hard, splash in some ammonia. Dry (crunchy) kamuses brought from the hunt are kept in this solution for 5 - 6 hours, after which they become soft, as if they had just been removed from the deer caught.

Fleshing. With a hunting knife, the flesh - the fat layer and subcutaneous films - is carefully removed from the kamuses. Prick until the skin becomes elastic and stretches well in all directions.

Pickling. The main procedure in the dressing of skins, which provides softening of the skin of the kamus. For pickling, a hydrochloric acid solution is prepared: 50 g of salt (about a handful) per 1 liter of water and add acids (2 g of concentrated sulfuric acid or 10 g of vinegar essence per 1 liter). Reindeer kamuses pickle for a day, while a boar skin must lie in a hydrochloric acid solution for at least three days, and a hare or squirrel skin must lie there for no more than 4 hours. The skins are then wrung out and laid aside for the night (for 12 hours).

Crawl - it is obligatory that the kamuses finally "reach". The dried skin after pickling resembles thick cardboard.Excessive thickness in some areas can be removed by repeated gouging with a sharp knife. At the same time, care should be taken not to damage the hair roots.

Tanning. The most crucial stage in the manufacture of skins. Tanning and fatty substances are mixed in one solution. At the rate of 1 liter, put table salt (50 g), washing powder (2 g), hyposulfite (10 g), chromium extract (3 g). Gun (neutral) oil (12 g) is recommended as a fat additive; it can be replaced with vegetable oil in the same amount. A fat additive is introduced into a tanning solution in the form of an emulsion: the oil is mixed with washing powder, thoroughly mixed in hot water and gradually added to the solution until a creamy mixture is obtained. The kamuses are poured with this solution and placed on a heated oven for the whole night (for 12 hours). It is desirable that the temperature of the solution be above room temperature, of the order of 35 - 40 degrees. Then the skins are wrung out and remain in bed for another day.

Drying. After tanning, the kamuses are straightened and hung for a day, fixing them on the frames at several points. Then the kamuses are removed from the frames, sprinkled on both sides with sawdust dipped in turpentine (or gasoline) - half a glass for each kamus. The kamuses lie in the sawdust at night. After that, the skin is shaken out until the sawdust is completely removed, as it should, crumpled and grind the skin with coarse sandpaper. Correctly made kamuses become soft, elastic and pleasant to the touch.

Perhaps the biggest problem in sewing high fur boots is low-quality raw materials. When there is a large slaughter of the animal, they often think about the kamuses as the last thing, they do not have time to peel and salt the skin. This means that the legs will lie in a heap for several days, the process of internal heat transfer will begin and over time, the kamuses, roughly speaking, will become bald.

Much also depends on the way the camus is made. The fastest and cheapest way is sulfuric acid treatment. Such a camus will not last long, after a year the skin will simply creep apart like a blotter. And the camus soaked in milk is very fond of moths. Good craftsmen use organic, acetic acid. An expensive but effective and reliable method.

The process of sewing one pair of fur boots lasts at least three days, excluding the dressing of the hide. By their structure, high fur boots are kamuses, lining, sole and ornament (corsage). Let's take a look at every detail in more detail.

Kamuses are carefully selected, then blanks are cut out, which are sewn with nylon thread, waxed with beeswax (protection from moisture). The kamus should not crunch when squeezed, another sign of poor manufacturing of kamus is the smell of fat, during manufacturing all the fat from the skin must be removed, otherwise the fur may burst over time and even "burn" - it smells bad. The threads with which the sole is sewn must be sunk into the depth of the sole. If the threads protrude outward, then when walking they will quickly fray.

For lining, greatcoat cloth, artificial fur or natural sheepskin are used. By and large, the texture of the lining does not matter, because the heat of the fur boots depends only on the quality of the kamuses. According to GOST, the lining must be made of a double shoe bike or of overcoat cloth. Other options that are quite acceptable for wearing include faux fur, sheepskin and felt cloth.

The sole is made of felt glued in several layers, or felt combined with rubber. The sole with rubber is more wear-resistant and less afraid of moisture, however, for a long stay in the cold, it is recommended to wear high boots with a sole made of pure felt. The optimal thickness of the sole felt is 2 cm, it is comfortable to walk and stand warmly, if the sole is thinner, the feet may freeze. The thicker the felt, the more comfortable it is to stand. The felt sole evenly distributes the load on the foot and reduces the risk of dislocations and other injuries associated with movement on terrain, it also serves as an additional shock absorber, which reduces shock loads when walking.

The felt sole retains heat well, but if the weather is slushy, the butt end of the felt sole absorbs moisture and high fur boots must be dried, therefore, such shoes are mainly intended for wearing on dry snow and frozen soil, at low temperatures, when no shoes can keep warm. ...

High boots should sit on the leg freely, so that you can move all your toes, the leg should walk a little in the boot, only in this case heat will be generated, the boot retains it, thanks to the thick felt sole and multilayer insulation of the upper part of the boot. To protect the soles of high fur boots, from slush and wet snow, you can glue the end of the sole felt with thin microporous rubber. There is an additional pad between the sole and the invisible thick felted cloth insole, all this together prevents the foot from freezing. Another important indicator of the quality of high fur boots is a correctly stitched welt. Rant - a border made of a piece of hard leather no more than 2.5 mm thick, to which the sole and fur are sewn. The method of fastening the sole of the fur boots is welt-stitched, the most reliable in the world. With prolonged use of high fur boots, the soft and comfortable breathable felt insole takes the anatomical shape of your foot, providing additional comfort.

Do not forget about shoe decoration. Standard corsages are made of leather, they are very practical (a long fur coat or coat does not puff out the camus), but they are not particularly beautiful. The fur bodice is cute and interesting. Corsages made of Yakut beads (bile), which are famous for their rare strength, are in special demand. The ornament is a national pattern - surprisingly beautiful and original! For fashionistas, there are high fur boots on sale with mink, raccoon, arctic fox, fox fur trim on the tops.

Modern high fur boots are a tribute to fashion and the urban lifestyle; they can also be made of dog and sheep wool as an insulating material and from tarpaulin as a base. The sole for urban high fur boots is usually rubber. Such winter boots will last longer in the city, where puddles are common even in winter, and the sidewalks are treated with chemicals. Real traditional high fur boots with felt soles will not last long in such conditions.

Sewing one pair of high fur boots requires kamuses of two or three adult animals, so the price of shoes is quite high.
But if you like exclusive things and want to stand out from the crowd even in the frosty fog, high fur boots are your choice!

How to make beautiful home slippers from an unnecessary sheepskin coat?

What ideas, patterns, master classes are there on how to sew stylish slippers?

If an old and unnecessary sheepskin coat is lying around in the house, then there is no need to rush to throw it away. Indeed, from this seemingly useless thing, you can sew a lot of useful things. So, let's take a closer look at a master class showing how to sew house slippers from an old sheepskin coat... First you need to build patterns of insoles, for this we circle the sole of the foot and transfer the sketch to the sheepskin coat, although the sole itself can be sewn from a more durable material so that the slippers do not wear off, but here at will.

In the same way, we build sketches of the side parts of the slippers, taking into account the length of the foot and the width of the ankle:

We transfer the patterns to the fabric, do not forget to leave another 1-2 centimeters for the seams. We cut out our blanks from a sheepskin coat and begin to sew with a strong thread:

You can sew home slippers from the sleeve of a sheepskin coat by sewing a sole with a toe to it. The main thing is that the sleeve fits the width of the leg:

Everyone knows that if you take care of your shoes, they will serve you for a guaranteed period, and if you take care of them correctly, even longer.

High fur boots are designed for very cold weather, they are sewn from natural and high quality materials. Sheepskin insulates the legs from the inside, and decorative eco-fur adorns the shin area. It is advisable to wear such boots in frosty and snowy weather, since the skin is sensitive to moisture and, after drying, can become coarse and tough.Still, of course, I don't want the dirt to dry on the surface of the fur. In the event that this does happen, the dried dirt must be carefully cleaned with a special brush.

A fur product needs very careful care. To begin with, you should not make the mistake of removing high boots with your feet (pressing the toe to the heel), but gently with your hands. It is advisable to clean the boots every day with a dry but soft cloth. But you should not do this, if the fur is wet, it is better to wait until it dries. It is advisable to walk just as neatly, whatever the fur is washed off at the folds. When packing high fur boots for seasonal storage, give them the correct shape, this can be done using cardboard. If your high boots are white, you need even more care and accuracy here.

In no case, it is not recommended to clean fur shoes with cologne or perfume, most often, they contain alcohol, and after a while, your high fur boots will not smell very pleasant. Also, avoid damage by any sharp objects, as it will be difficult to return the product to its previous appearance.

As for drying wet or damp fur boots, you should not do this near heating appliances. You just need to fill them with crumpled paper (preferably newspaper) and leave at room temperature. It is also allowed to use special dryers for shoes.

It is worth storing such boots in cardboard boxes, after putting them in a simple pillowcase or canvas bag. Never put them in a plastic bag, the fur needs air and ventilation, otherwise it will dry out. The desired storage temperature is up to +23 degrees, but it will be better if you find a cooler place. Treat high fur boots with a special moth repellent, and do not store dyed fur products with undyed ones. Protect them from direct sunlight, they will simply fade and change color under their influence. In the summertime, it is recommended to dry it in the sun at least once.

Quote from the message WOMAN_BLOG_RU We sew high fur boots for the winter: useful tips on pattern and sewing high fur boots

In a frosty winter, you involuntarily recall the soft warm high boots that reliably warm your feet, preventing them from freezing. You can prepare for winter frosts in advance by sewing fur boots with your own hands.

- a needle and a nylon thread treated with wax;

- felted cloth lining;

- thick paper for creating patterns;

1 Carefully select the kamuses, because if the selection is incorrect, the left fur boots will differ from the right one.

2 Create a pattern. To do this, first decide on the height of the boots: attach the kamuses to the leg and see which version of the height will look better. Measure the girth of the lower leg and to the resulting value, make an allowance of five centimeters (this will allow the leg to pass well) and another centimeter for the seam. Based on the available data, build a pattern on paper, which you then transfer to the kamuses.

3 Carefully cut the skins, being careful not to damage the fur.

4 Stick a pad on the sole. Then cut the insole out of felted cloth and glue it on top of the pad.

5 Sew the parts cut from the kamus using a large needle and thick waxed thread. To do this, punch holes with an awl, and then connect the elements along them.

6 Connect the sewn boots with the sole by gluing them together.

7 Using the pattern you made earlier, cut out the backing. Gently glue the lining to the stitched high fur boots. Be careful, because inadvertently spilling glue on the fur, everything will be ruined.

8 Come up with an original design for fur boots. You can use a ribbon, beads or other decoration.

Use exclusively waterproof glue, otherwise the fur boots will creep out in contact with moisture!

When choosing kamuses for sewing fur boots, pay attention to the way they are finished. Fur treated with sulfuric acid will not last long: very soon the skin will creep. Raw materials processed with the use of milk will become a tasty dish for moths, so high fur boots made of this leather will also not last long. But if the kamuses are soaked in acetic acid, then this leather will be an excellent raw material for shoes.

Part 1 - DIY ugg boots from an old sweater

Part 2 - We sew high fur boots for the winter: useful tips for patterning and sewing high fur boots

To choose the right reindeer boots, special attention should be paid to the fur - the main value of this shoe. There are a lot of low-quality products from China on the sales market, which are made from the skin of a cow or horse. Such shoes are not very warm and the price for them is much lower.

Long wearing high fur boots directly depends on the quality of workmanship... When buying, it is very difficult to check the quality, so it is recommended to purchase shoes from a trusted manufacturer.
Small artisan workshops use sulfuric acid in hides, which breaks down the skin.
You also need to pay attention to the sole of the product.... High-quality high fur boots contain two felt insoles, each eight millimeters thick. The multilayer lower part of the high fur boots protects from moisture and protects from frost. The threads with which the sole is stitched are covered with a layer of prevention. This is necessary in order to protect the seam cord from abrasion, as well as to give an anti-slip effect.
The lining is considered an important part of the high fur boots.... The peoples of the North traditionally use a bike or overcoat cloth when sewing these shoes. This type of lining is durable and easy to dry. Fur is also used in production, which is seventy percent of natural wool with a fabric base.

Knowing how to choose the right footwear, such as reindeer fur boots, you can count on the shoe to last long and to be lightweight. It is worth noting that all the nuances are observed if real high fur boots are sewn in a specialized studio. In addition, reputable companies provide a guarantee for the product and are ready to perform any repair of the fur boots.

Usually white high boots need to be cleaned several times a season. Of course, the frequency depends on how often you wear high fur boots, and in what weather. Let's dwell on the general rules for caring for high fur boots.

If you don't want to frequently clean your high fur boots, opt for a model with short fur. The longer the pile, the better it retains various impurities.
The wet pile of high fur boots cannot be cleaned and combed. So the dirt will become even stronger on the fur, and it will be difficult to clean it later.
Purchase a special fur brush. They are distinguished by long, rare teeth with blunt tips.
Never dry boots near heating devices (heaters, batteries). These shoes should only dry at room temperature.
Wear high boots only in frosty and snowy weather. Remember that the main purpose of these shoes is to give warmth and comfort to your feet in severe frosts. And for rains and slush, high fur boots are not at all suitable.
If the pollution is very strong, old or you are afraid to ruin expensive shoes, trust the specialists. Most dry cleaners will clean the boots in a couple of days using modern means.

White high fur boots look very impressive, but they need especially careful care. There are several rules that will help your favorite boots please you as long as possible.

Any shoes, and white high fur boots in particular, need to be able to take off correctly. Even if you are very tired, do not be lazy - bend over and take off your shoes with your hands, but without pressing the toe to the heel.
Keep shoes away from sharp objects. Repairing white fur boots is not only difficult, but also expensive.
Do not store high fur boots in plastic bags, this will lead to the fact that the shoes may dry out. Better to put the boots in a cardboard box and store in a cool, dark place.
At the end of the season, treat high fur boots with a moth repellent

There are several ways to clean up dirt from white boots.

Purchase hydrogen peroxide, dilute it with water in a 1: 1 ratio. Pour the finished mixture into a spray bottle. Spray the dirty areas gently, let the fur dry. Then comb out the dirt with a special comb. If the fur boots have inserts made of colored material, be careful not to get the mixture on them.
Excellent anti-pollution shampoo for animals. Specialized shampoo for white dogs is especially helpful. Such a tool will not only clean the high fur boots, but also return whiteness, remove yellow spots. The shampoo must be diluted in water, moistened with a cloth and treated with high fur boots. Then wipe the boots with dry paper, dry and comb the product.
A solution of alcohol and baking soda has proven itself well. They must be mixed in a 3: 1 ratio. Then use a sponge to remove the dirt. Please note that you only need to clean in the direction of the pile growth.
If greasy spots have appeared on the white high boots, they can be removed with gasoline. A piece of suede, soak it in gasoline, and then wipe off the dirt. Please note that the smell of gasoline takes a long time to disappear, so it is better to take them out into the open air.
Another proven method is vinegar essence. Soak a sponge in the essence, wipe the fur, also in the direction of the pile growth.

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High fur boots - the usual winter footwear of the peoples of the North - are very comfortable and, most importantly, indescribably warm. They are not afraid of any, even the most formidable frost, all this thanks to the special fur - kamus (this is the skin from the lower part of the legs of a deer or elk) and the technology of sewing high fur boots, which has not actually changed over time.

- kamus 2-3 pieces;
- felt;
- pieces of skin;
- furrier's knife;
- hunting knife;
- awl;
- a needle;
- waxed nylon threads;
- braid, beads, fur trimmings.

Before sewing high fur boots, you need to painstakingly make kamuses. This process consists of several steps. First, soak the kamuses in a solution of salt and washing powder (or soap shavings). At the rate of one handful of salt and two pinches of powder per liter of water. You can add slightly ammonia to the solution. Put the kamuses and keep them in the solution for about 5-6 hours. Carefully remove the skin with a hunting knife. Do this until the skin is supple and soft.

Further, the skin is subjected to pickling - a procedure that softens the kamus. Prepare an acid-saline solution at the rate of 50 g of salt and 10 ml of vinegar essence per 1 liter of water. Put the skins in the prepared solution and soak them in it for 24 hours. Then let them sit for 12 hours. Perfectly dried leather should resemble cardboard.

The next step is tanning. Prepare a solution of 50 g of salt (this is approximately one handful) 2 g of washing powder, 10 g of hyposulfite, 3 g of chromium extract, 12 g of vegetable oil. You should get a mixture of a mixture of sour cream. Pour the kamuses with this substance and put in a heated oven for 12 hours. Squeeze the camuses and let them lie down for another day.

Spread the skins, fasten with small studs to the frame and hang to dry for about 24 hours. Then carefully remember the kamuses and grind the skin with sandpaper.

Match the color of the fur. Cut out the details, paying attention to the direction of the pile. Sew all the details with a waxed nylon thread with a seam over the edge. Place the stitches as close to each other as possible.

Sew a cloth or narrow sheepskin lining from such parts. Stick the lining into the camus boot.

Cut out the details of the sole out of felt and leather (craftsmen also use the material novopor for this). Helping yourself with an awl, sew the sole to the fur part of the boots with a needle seam forward. Place the felted cloth insole inside. The details of the sole can be cut from the boot of the felt boot.

The next step is decorating. Sew a braid, decorations from pieces of fur on the upper part of high boots, embroider with beads.

Irkutsk woman Tatyana Yurievna has been preferring high fur boots to cold boots for seven years already, and her mother Tamara Nikolaevna managed to change her boots for kamuses only this year

Practical advice on sewing national footwear of the peoples of the North

Fur boots made of kamus, terribly scarce under Soviet rule, remain a popular and expensive commodity today. One pair of good high fur boots costs about 5000 rubles in Irkutsk. It would seem that for any entrepreneur who wants to open a workshop for sewing fur boots, huge opportunities are opening up. In theory. But in practice, it turns out that in the regional center there are only two serious companies specializing in kamus. The head of one of them, a private entrepreneur Aleksey Shulyga, explained why sewing high fur boots is more exciting than a profitable type of business.

Rules for wearing and storing high fur boots
The vulnerable spot of high fur boots is the skin (skin), it is susceptible to moisture, so it is not recommended to wear kamuses in the slush. The preferred temperature is from minus 15 degrees and below. You cannot forcibly dry high boots on a battery or with the help of electrical appliances - only by stuffing them with crumpled newspaper. For the summer, high fur boots should be wrapped in paper (in no case in a plastic bag), putting orange peel or other moth repellent inside. It is recommended to dry the boots in the sun once a summer. In a word, caring for high fur boots should be the same as for any fur product.
Solid high fur boots, subject to all the rules of socks and storage, will last 10-15 seasons. This statement does not apply to footwear that can be bought on the market from an artisan. The latter does not care about the quality of the manufacture of the camus; such a purchase may result in a banal loss of money.

High boots are sewn exclusively from the fur of deer legs, less often - red deer, elk.
The structure of the pile covering the area from the hoof to the knee is tubular, which explains the retention of heat in severe frost.
Sewing one pair of high fur boots requires the kamuses of two adult animals, so the prices for shoes bite.
Deer camuses have a wide range of colors. The brown skin indicates that the animal lived in the forest zone, and the fur of a polar deer casts silver.

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High fur boots are a type of boots trimmed with fur. Usually they are made on leather soles or thick felt, the feet are insulated with natural fur. The cuff is completely made of fur. These shoes were originally intended for very cold climates, but have recently become popular with fashionistas in various regions.

Instructions

Caring for such high boots is the same as for ordinary shoes. Try to dry them thoroughly, just do not lean the fur close to a heat source.
elementary Watson

Anyone who has ever felt the Siberian cold knows that feet need to be kept warm. The traditions of the indigenous peoples of Siberia have been preserved in the production of high fur boots. How to choose high fur boots to enjoy the comfort and warmth of these shoes all winter?

How not to be mistaken when buying high fur boots, we asked the expert - the general director of the Aikhal factory Alexey Shulyga:

The main value of high fur boots is fur, so it is he who needs to pay attention when choosing shoes. It should be exactly the kamus of a deer, red deer or elk. Nowadays, there are many Chinese fakes made of horse or cow skins. These shoes are cheaper and less warm. Real high fur boots made of kamus cannot be cheap, because in order to sew one pair, you need to get two or three animals.

Next, pay attention to the outsole. In high-quality high boots there is an inner felt insole of about 8 mm, then another one is the same - already visible, then the sole itself. This layering is not accidental. Its main task is to protect against moisture and frost. The sole should be covered with a layer of prophylaxis so that no threads are visible on it. Prevention gives an anti-slip effect and protects the threads in the seams from moisture and abrasion.

The next detail of the high fur boots is the lining. Today you can find shoes with a sheepskin inside, but this is a waste of money. Such high fur boots are difficult to operate: it is difficult to dry them! It should be borne in mind that they are not intended for one year, and the sheepskin quickly stubs out, after which it is uncomfortable to wear high fur boots. Northern peoples, where this shoe is the main one in winter, never put a sheepskin lining inside. Traditional high fur boots are sewn with a lining of thin, light fabrics that are durable to wear and are easy to dry: for example, from industrial shoe fur, which is 50% natural fibers. This is the best option for long wear and lightness. At the same time, it must be understood that the lining does not affect the heat here, because it is not he who warms the leg, but the very structure of the kamus.

Of course, all these subtleties are observed in high fur boots, sewn in specialized factories or in ateliers. It is from them that you can buy shoes that will delight you for many years. In addition, serious manufacturers give a guarantee for their products, and are also ready to accept high fur boots for repairs, replacement of a beaded pattern or sole.

A few thoughts on a given topic:

1. My father was a pilot, in winter they all wore factory high fur boots, but my father didn’t like high fur boots with dog fur outside, so he wore smart boots with a leather top and, apparently, colder ones. Therefore, on flights inside, they also dressed so-called. “Untyata”, fur stockings made of thin sheepskin with rather long, but not thick hair. Maybe try this option?

2. As a child, I myself had a chance to wear “burkas”, but not those classic ones, made of white felt, but in black satin and batting sewn by craftsmen. They were stitched in vertical stripes and kept without strings, but they were worn on the street only with galoshes.
Maybe you should sew boots out of sheepskin and attach a polyurethane sole to them? We used to have a shop where everything for shoe repair was sold, but maybe you can buy them at the workshop.
3. Or hem with felt with knurled rubber, like felt boots. Somewhere I even met the technique of such a filing (with the help of two needles), but so far I can not remember.

I only found an article on shoe repair, here are a few pages from it, you may find something interesting.

By the way, I myself discovered a very interesting moment! Pay attention to item D on the last page - this is the solution to the issue of slipping shoes. I usually put glue on the sole in winter and put it on the sand, this structure does not hold much, but if the metal filings are mixed into glue, then it should hold for quite a long time. Let's try!

As a person who once actively wished for ugg boots, and then got into them under a car, I can say that it is not very convenient to run around on ice in them.

Sewing them seems to me easy and simple, having bought large men's slippers with such a light sole and having torn them apart, sew a sheepskin stocking there.

First, I sheathed the boots with an elastic and strong enough (so as not to be torn by the infusion) leatherette, after having stretched the boots by 1 cm. I did it like this.

I inserted a semicircular wooden disc into a felt boot soaked to the bootleg with the flat side down (it is imperative to put a milk bag on it - the boot will dry faster). Its length should be such that the disc protrudes into the opening of the bootleg by 1.5-2 cm. I put a semicircular (flat side inward) bar in the back of the bootleg (the length is not shorter than the bootleg). The width of the bar should correspond to the width of the felt boot, and the thickness should be arbitrary. The space between the blank and the bar was tightly filled with planks carefully selected in thickness (the same length as that of the bar). The total length of the blank and the thickness of the set should be equal to the size of the felt boot. Between the plates of the set, you need to drive another one. Its thickness will provide the necessary stretching of the felt boots (remove everything after the boots are dry).

I cut the blanks according to carefully fitted patterns. First I sewed the backdrops. I do not give the dimensions of the blanks, because it all depends on the size of the boots. One thing I can tell you: the back and front blanks should overlap each other in the middle of the bootleg. The size of the overlap on the sole is no more than 3.5 cm.After repeated calculations, I decided to cheat - to sheathe in front of not a solid workpiece, but from three parts: two lateral and one central, in order to get rid of the largest folds that spoiled the whole view. You can get rid of them if you stretch the workpiece material strongly, but then, having reduced, the workpieces will squeeze the felt boot, and its preliminary stretching will be useless. The same result will be obtained if sheathed with leather - it gets soaked easily, and when it dries, it shrinks.

I had never done such a thing before, so I did not even know about the difficulties that made themselves felt when I got to my sock!

Maybe the specialists have some tools - but what I came up with turned out to be very simple and very convenient: I fastened two sections of the profile knitting needles from the umbrella with strips of tin (with soldering) - it turned out a reel with a fork. Nylon can be wound on a motorcycle wedge in any quantity, and with a nylon loop, squeeze not the end of the finger, but a fork, the length of which allows you to put the loop on the awl without problems in any hard-to-reach place. Things went much faster.

The sandals are smaller in size than the sole of the felt boots, so each sole had to be glued in two halves and, for reliability, sewn with an outsole cut from an old felt boot. I didn't sew on heels to make it easier to put on PCZ stockings - you still can't do without them in early spring, when it's frosty in the morning, and by mid-day the snow on the ice turns into a swamp.

I cut out my knee pads from an old faux fur coat.On three sides I sheathed the edges with material, and sewed the fourth to the felt boots from the inside of the bootlegs with the fur inside. The thigh is completely covered by the knee pad and in this position is fixed with Velcro. It is tied to a belt by a loop with a cord. The junction of the knee pad with the felt boot was closed with a leatherette strip (outside).

High fur boots turned out to be warm, light and comfortable.

Valentin Kofanov
Based on materials from the newspaper “Toloka. We do it ourselves "

- kamuses;
- a needle and a nylon thread treated with wax;
- measuring tape;
- sole;
- felted cloth lining;
- thick paper for creating patterns;
- scissors;
- glue;
- gasket;
- awl;
- beads or ribbon.

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Carefully select the kamuses, because if the selection is wrong, the left fur boots will differ from the right one.

Create a pattern. To do this, first decide on the height of the boots: attach the kamuses to the leg and see which version of the height will look better. Measure the girth of the lower leg and to the resulting value, make an allowance of five centimeters (this will allow the leg to pass well) and another centimeter for the seam. Based on the available data, build a pattern on paper, which you then transfer to the kamuses.

Cut the skins carefully, taking care not to damage the fur.

Stick a pad on the sole. Then cut the insole out of felted cloth and glue it on top of the pad.

Sew the parts cut from the kamus using a large needle and thick waxed thread. To do this, punch holes with an awl, and then connect the elements along them.

Connect the sewn boots with the sole by gluing them together.

Cut out the backing using the pattern you made earlier. Gently glue the lining to the stitched high fur boots. Be careful, because inadvertently spilling glue on the fur, everything will be ruined.

Video (click to play).

Come up with an original design for fur boots. You can use a ribbon, beads or other decoration.

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