DIY iron repair bork 1500

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Bork 1500 iron from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The first Bork i500 was changed under the warranty and cannot be repaired, the second died as soon as the 2-year warranty ended, since the heating element burned out a little - this is a clear saving of the manufacturer on reliability, except for the price. I repaired a dozen irons so that the ten was the first to burn out. The iron is disposable.

He just died, for no reason or warning! Nothing foreshadowed trouble, all safety measures and trouble-free operation were taken care of, but apparently shit is shit! Popados!

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Describe how satisfied or dissatisfied you are with your purchase Bork I500

Bork I500 When plugged into the outlet, a blue light comes on, but the iron does not heat up, while I hear a quiet crackle in the upper part and, with a slight tap, the red lamp in the upper part tries to turn on (sometimes this light remains on and the iron tries to work normally, but after a minute it turns off again ). I assume the reason is a malfunction of the v6-s-dc24v relay.

Bork 1500 The vertical steaming function does not work, in a horizontal position during ironing, steaming occurs automatically, but when the button is forcibly pressed, steam does not come out, neither in a horizontal nor in a vertical position. The iron is 2 months old. What could be the reason

My wife stroked the newly bought Bork i500 iron for no more than 15 minutes, after which it no longer heats up. Several times they turned on and off from the outlet, both in a vertical and horizontal position, but this did not give any results on the heating of the iron.

It starts to warm up and immediately (after a few seconds) stops. Then the blue indicator starts blinking. Tell me what is the resistance of the temperature sensor of the bork ir500 iron?

Video (click to play).

I turned on the iron 1 month after the last use. The blue lamp is on, but the iron is not heating. For 1 month the iron just stood on a stand, no one approached it. What's the matter?

The iron 1500 Heats up, but during ironing it starts to blink and cool down and that's it. It doesn't get warm anymore, even if you even try to iron - what's the matter? Is the defense blunt?

Bork I500 when ironing at a high temperature, if you turn the knob to a low temperature, does NOT cool down. You have to wait almost hours. Was that intended?

The 1500 heats up quickly, but just as quickly and cools down with constant ironing.

Your Bork I500 does not work, please describe your problem completely.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.

Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:

Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General device of the electric iron

After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.

Tools you may need when repairing your iron

All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

Read also: U140f DIY repair

There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

He lifted the upper part slightly with his finger, although you must first unscrew the screw in front of the iron.

We press on the lid from both sides and pull it forward. It has small latches.

Power cord retainer screws.

Bottom screw rubber plug.

Time to unplug the wires. We remember how they were connected.

Latches on the terminals prevent accidental disconnection.

Flex cable from control board on silicone or glue gun.

Parsing the bottom. Lift the tee out of the holders.

We remove the remaining terminals.

We unscrew the divider of the lower and upper parts of the iron. Three screws: two at the back, one at the front. But! Do not lose the holders that are on the back of this cover!

After all the cleaning, I put the iron back together. The electronics work, but the outsole does not heat up. Taking into account that the neighbor said that she “started to smoke”, I think that the heating element burned out. It would have been possible to measure the voltage at the terminals suitable for the sole, but the tester was in the car and it was too lazy to follow him. The iron has been eliminated. Good luck to you!

Thanks! He helped me a lot in repairing my iron, the tube burst at the place where the water was supplied to the heater.

Thank you, everything worked out, the iron was reanimated.

Thank you very much, they helped a lot! The water supply nozzles have melted.

Thank you for your help. There was no steam, I took it apart, blew it out and it all worked

But I have such a situation. In working order, the wife decided to pour water. He began to screech, I tried to drain the excess water and put it down with the handle. And now he's constantly ripping. What to do?

Tam odno rele podgorevshee & termo predoxranitely ne meshaloby proverit :-)

There was a similar situation. The electronics work, the iron does not heat. Replaced one of the 2 thermal fuses located on the soleplate of the iron. The iron works again.

Good day! I wanted to know if there were any spare parts left from the iron?
The thermistor on the steam generator burned out, I cannot find it ((picture) on the sole with black wires)).

Hello, my control module beeps, the iron does not heat, is there a problem?

Thanks to the author for the instructions, helped with the repair (the fuse from overheating of the steam generator burned out)

Good day!
If anyone has spare parts from Bork 2400w, I will buy model 1600. You need a control panel in a handle, which, together with a loop and a control unit, is possible. I will be very grateful. My daughter is in trouble with this iron.

Before proceeding with the repair of the iron, it is worth examining its design. Today it is difficult to imagine any housewife who does not have an iron. This indispensable assistant in the household is present in almost every home, but sometimes it happens that it breaks down. You can, of course, immediately buy a new device and not suffer. And you can try to repair it with your own hands, because this is within the power of any person who is a little familiar with the device of these electrical appliances.

Today the market is full of irons from a wide variety of manufacturers - Tefal, Brown, Elenberg, Maestro, Atlanta, Saturn, Philips, Scarlet, Vitek - while the device of this technique remains the same. How does this device work and what does it consist of?

Iron components:

The sole, where the heating element is built in - sometimes there are holes in it, if the iron has a steamer;
Thermostat equipped with a knob to adjust the heating temperature of the sole;
Water tank, if the iron "knows how" to steam;
Water sprinkler;
Steam supply regulator;
Power cord for connecting the device to the network.

The electrical circuit of such irons as Braun, Bosch, Polaris, Tefal, Vitek looks like an electrical circuit of a kettle or heater. And this is not surprising, because the circuits of these devices are not much different.

The iron diagram can be downloaded on the Internet and printed on a printer for ease of use.

In any iron, regardless of its brand (it can be at least Bork 1500, Polaris, Magnet, Feya 128, Redmond, Ladomir, Moulinex, Philips Azur, Vitek 1209, Bosch or Tefal Superglis) there are main nodes:

Heater;
Thermal fuse;
Cord with a plug;
Temperature regulator.

The principle of operation of electric irons is as follows: to turn it on, voltage is applied to the heating element located in the sole of the device. In many modern irons, for example, Roventa, powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2200 w are used. It is worth remembering and not to overheat such a unit.

However, to avoid this, a thermostat is built into the circuit, on which the setting of degrees depends. Temperature control is carried out by turning the wheel in different directions. If you do it clockwise, the temperature will increase.

An important element of ironing is a fuse, which, when high temperatures are reached due to a malfunction, opens the contacts of the device, thereby turning it off.

When the iron does not work, does not turn on, leaks, cracks, blinks or does not heat up, many housewives begin to panic, asking why this happened.

The main reasons why the iron breaks down:

The thermostat has broken;
The terminals are gone;
The cord broke;
The contacts in the thermostat are oxidized;
The fuse is out of order;
The valve does not work.

One of the frequent breakdowns of irons is a broken cord. The fact is that when using an iron, the cord is constantly bent, which leads to chafing. If this happens, the device may not turn on, and the sole of the device may not warm up well.

By the way, you can understand that something is wrong with the iron long before it breaks down. Usually, a blinking red light signals a problem that has arisen, which, if the iron is in good working order, burns evenly.

For any damage to the irons, you need to start the repair by checking the cord. To find out exactly whether he is the "culprit" of the malfunction, you need to ring him. You can check this with an ordinary tester or multimeter.

To be sure, it is better to wiggle the cord during operation, especially in problem areas. If the beep of the multimeter begins to interrupt, it is better to replace the cord.

In the event of a malfunction of the cord next to the plug, you need to change it.

If, in order to fix the iron, you still need to disassemble it, you will have to do it. And it's okay that at home.

For this you will need:

Screwdriver Set;
A wide knife or unnecessary plastic card for prying the latches;
Multimeter or tester;
Soldering iron - if some elements are replaced;
Insulating tape;
Pliers;
Sandpaper.

It all starts with removing the back panel, which has several screws. Usually one is located on the nose of the instrument, and the other can be in the area of the cord. A screwdriver will help us to cope with them. But it should be borne in mind that in addition to screws, there may be latches or the screws themselves are hidden under the casing. For example, Philips “hides” the screw under the handle for adjusting the steam, and “Brown” under the nozzle cover (it can be removed by pulling it towards you). To unscrew the screw from Phillips, you need to turn the handle all the way to the left, and then pull it up.

Then, after unscrewing all visible fasteners, you need to pry the cover with a card or the end of a knife, thus separating the cover from the case.

We disassemble further. Under the cover there is a terminal block to which the cord is attached. If the problem is in him, then you can not go further. But if everything is in order, the analysis continues.

To disassemble the iron, you must have a screwdriver

In some irons, such as Philips or Tefal, there are also bolts under the lid. They also need to be unscrewed.

Actually, the devices of each manufacturer have their own characteristics, but the general parsing scheme is about the same, be it Bosch Sensixx Comfort, Philips Azur or Powerlife, Tefal Supergliss 3530 or Ultragliss, Braun Texstyle, Philips Easy Care, Tefal Aquaspeed 150, Maxwell 3045, Elenberg, Viconte, Bork i500, Domotec, Bosch da70, Polaris Pir 1833.

Next, you need to remove the temperature regulator and steam outlet. To do this, the steam button and the dial of the regulator are pinched with your fingers and pulled up. If there are latches, they must be squeezed out.

Rowenta irons and some Scarlett models may even have bolts on the handle. If they are, then they also need to be unscrewed. There may be screws under the removed parts that need to be unscrewed and then removed the upper plastic parts.

You need to unscrew the fasteners until the body is completely detached from the sole. But the further device and disassembly of the desired part already depends on the specific model of the iron.

When the iron breaks down, it needs to be repaired. The person fixing the iron, after disassembling the device, can begin to find out the reasons why this happened.

Perhaps the matter lies in the breakdown of the heating element. Verification is needed to verify this. For this, the rear cover of the unit is removed, after which it is necessary to look at the conclusions of the element itself. If the light or indicator lights up, but the device itself does not heat up, most likely the spiral has broken. By the way, if the heating element breaks down, it is better not to change it, but to immediately buy a new iron, since the cost will be almost the same.

How to check the health of the thermostat:

Disassemble the iron body;
Find a thermostat - it looks like a plate with contacts and a plastic pin;
Inspect the contacts of the regulator - in a cold state, they should be all closed;
If everything is in order with their appearance, it is worth checking them with a multimeter - if the device shows "0", everything is in order, and if "1" - the problem is in the contacts.

If, nevertheless, it is found that the contacts are not in order, most likely they are burnt. In this case, you need to clean them. For these purposes, you can use fine-grained sandpaper or a nail file. Care must be taken, as the contacts are very sensitive and should not be strongly bent.

If the iron does not turn off, there is an option that the contacts have fused or somehow adhered. In this case, they need to be disconnected and mobility restored, being careful not to distort the details. If this cannot be done, the option remains - to replace the old unit by writing it off, if it is at the enterprise.

In the same place where the thermostat is located, there is also a thermal fuse. This device, which is responsible for the degree of heating of the sole, burns out as soon as the temperature goes beyond the permissible limit. Usually "hidden" in a white tube protecting the mechanism.

How to check a fuse and what to do if it is blown:

First you need to find contacts and ring them - in working order, the fuse rings;
You can move the tube and ring it straight out in order to exclude a break in the connecting wire;
If the fuse blows out, you need to remove it, buy a similar one and reinstall it.

It is impossible to remove the fuse from the iron device: in a critical case, it will prevent a fire from occurring if the thermostat fails.

The node where the thermostat is located (for example, hf7520) can be single - or reusable. Mechanisms from the first group are triggered only once, after which they need to be changed.

When carrying out repair work, the iron must not be plugged in.

New technologies provide for the use of bimetal in the relay. Such elements can turn off the iron in a dangerous situation and then turn it back on. If a breakdown occurs for this reason, it is easier to remove the node, and the circuit itself is short-circuited by soldering, crimping or by switching the supply wires.

Another common problem is the breakdown of the steam generator in the UTP (irons with a thermostat and a steam humidifier). What if the appliance stops emitting steam?

In Bosch irons, this may be due to the fact that the button of the steam station is strongly pressed.

What to do in this case:

It is necessary to remove the back cover of the device, then carefully remove the buttons with which steam is supplied;
Next, the screw is unscrewed and the plastic handle is removed;
There are two pumps under the cover: one supplies water for the sprinkler and the other supplies liquid to the sole to form steam;
The steam pump is removed and examined - in its lower part there is a ball that sticks to the bottom due to scale;
To fix the problem, you need to push this ball back into the chamber and assemble the iron.

If steam does not come out, and there is water in the tank, the reason may lie in the clogging of the hole with salts. In this case, you need to make a solution of water and vinegar in the proportion: 1 liter of liquid - 1 glass of vinegar, into which you lower the disconnected iron. The water should cover the bottom of the iron.

Or you can 2 tsp. dilute lemon acid in 250 ml of boiling water and put an iron in such a solution. Then the container with the iron is heated to a boil. Then it turns off, and when it cools down, it heats up again. This should be done 3-4 times until the salts dissolve.

If water flows from the device instead of steam, there may be two reasons: improper operation (the regulator is incorrectly set and the sole does not have time to heat up to the degree of steam formation) or valve breakage. To make sure that the iron is dripping precisely because of the valve, you need to pour water, turn off the steam supply and shake it a little. If the liquid continues to flow out, the valve does not close the hole tightly due to the rubbing of the rubber gaskets.

When reassembling the iron, you can use a sealant to seal the soleplate and body together more firmly. As you can see, there is nothing particularly complicated here. Almost everyone can identify malfunctions and eliminate them. The main thing is that the repairing iron observes safety precautions when working with electrical appliances and knows how to use the necessary tools.In everyday life, various devices are used, designed for heating and cooking food, cleaning, washing, ironing and many other daily tasks. Due to work in extreme conditions, the electric iron very often breaks, scratches and clogs. Repair of the Philips Mistral iron (Philips), Bosch Sensixx'x (Bosch), Braun Optistyle (Brown), Tefal Aquagliss TurboPro (Tefal), Electrolux and others can be easily done with your own hands at home.It will be much easier to repair the device yourself if you know how it works and what it is made of. Structurally, the iron consists of a sole, temperature regulators, fuses, an electric cord. Device:In some modern steam installations (for example, steam generators, which are also subspecies of irons), there may be more parts, but the four described is the basis of any scheme. Typical faults include:

The outsole does not heat up. The problem often occurs both with expensive models such as Braun Optistyle, Kambrook AKI, Moulinex, and cheaper International, Orion, Bravissimo or Vitek - Vitek. Most likely, an urgent repair of the fuse or thermostat is required. The first can break off the contacts, and the second can oxidize the contacts;

The iron does not turn on. The power cord may need to be repaired;

Photo - checking the cord

The steam function does not work. Steam generator problems are either related to the thermostat or clogged steam holes in the soleplate. Cleaning required;

The modes do not switch - the temperature controller is broken.

Photo - repair Tefal

Let's consider how to disassemble irons from Tefal avantis, comfort, MAGNIT RMI-1525, Delfa, Daewoo and others for repair. Step-by-step instruction:

Immediately, we note that after disassembly, warranty repair will no longer be provided, so if this is the first independent experience, it is better to immediately take the iron to a service center.

Video: Scarlett Iron Repair Tips

Let's take a look at the process of cleaning the soles and inner elements. You need to disassemble the iron and separate the sole. First, it is blown through with a vacuum cleaner with a furniture (narrow) brush - this is necessary to remove dust and particulate matter. Then you need to put the sole (only if it is metal) in a bowl of water, vinegar or citric acid. For 1 liter of water, take a glass of vinegar or 5 tablespoons of acid. Together with the container, put the iron on the fire, heat the bowl and boil for several minutes. Repeat up to 5 times. Image - DIY iron repair bork 1500

Photo - dirty soles

In addition to such available tools, you can use the most common descaler for cleaning pots or teapots. After that, we wipe the device and put it to dry; the next day, use is not recommended.

Step-by-step instructions on how to repair the thermostat of the Silter, Ufesa, Rowenta Steam Force, Bosch TDS or VES iron:

Disassemble the device, disconnect all wires. To check the condition of the thermostat, you need to turn it several times in both directions until it stops. When it reaches the extreme position, a group of contacts should be triggered, and a click will be heard;
If there is no click, then the fuse is defective. There are two options for solving the problem: short-circuit the wires so that the iron does not turn off or install a new regulator. Of course, the first is cheaper and faster, but the second is safer and more reliable;
For soldering, you can use the simplest hand-held soldering iron. In order to replace it, you will need to buy a similar item, preferably the same brand.

A little harder clean the soleif the steam controlled device refuses to steam clothes. The reason here lies in the clogged condensate holes. Tips from the masters:

Gently slide a cotton swab into them and twist it several times. You can pre-moisten it with alcohol or vinegar;
Iron the salt onto cotton clothes. This is an old proven way to quickly bring steel and stainless steel to work;
If you have problems with your ceramic or Teflon iron, it is better to have it cleaned by a specialist. Any workshop will undertake this work.

Photo - scheme

What to do if your iron is Rowenta Focus DW, rainford, Philips Elance or Polti Vaporella Forever 1800 Eco Program does not turn on:

The first step is to check the power cord. It can break both along its entire length and at the point of connection to the iron. To check this, unscrew the cover that presses the wire to the contacts and check them. If no problem is found there, most likely the cause is a wire breakage along the length. It is most advisable to simply replace the cord with a new one; Photo - cord fastening
The device may also not turn on due to a thermostat failure, a fuse, or a malfunction of the power contacts. In some models, water can directly contact vital parts, from which the circuit is oxidized. You need to completely disassemble and check the sole. If you find oxidized compounds, clean them with alcohol.

It is worth noting that if the sole is cracked or the circuit burned out, then it is inappropriate to carry out repairs on your own. It is better either to immediately refer it to the specialists (if the model is expensive, say, Philips pro Azur), or buy yourself a new iron (if Elco, Maxima MI, Taurus breaks down).

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with:

Household appliances do not very often fail, but, nevertheless, it is simply impossible to get rid of all of them. In any case, some kind of malfunction, let it make itself felt. The iron is an indispensable device in the modern life of any housewife, but with it, at times, there are incidents in the form of malfunctions, breakdowns, etc. Today we will consider in detail the repair of the thermoregulation system in the BORK I601 iron.

Any iron repair begins with a visual inspection. We carefully inspect the entire surface of the iron, from all sides, so that there are no defects and dents. Because their presence suggests that it is they who can be the causes of any malfunction. It is very important to carefully and correctly use the iron, so that it does not have to be repaired so often.

We connect the iron from the network and check whether the indicator is on and whether the device is heating up. We scroll the thermostat in different directions, and if the device does not react in any way to your actions, it is necessary to disassemble it in order to identify the cause of the breakdown, its not turning on and not working. It is also necessary to remind all users to treat the iron cord with special trepidation. Because it breaks very easily, and this is what causes most iron breakdowns.

If there is a broken wire on the cord of the iron, be sure to insulate it so that this nuance does not lead to negative consequences. So, turn off the iron from the network and start disassembling it. To do this, first of all, you need to unscrew the bolt on the back panel. Remove the plug from the top of the device handle and unscrew another screw. We remove the legs (also a kind of plugs) and unscrew the screws under them. Remove the back cover. In order not to lose small parts, prepare a small container where you will put them together.

Before us is the "insides" of the iron, which we already have the opportunity to ring in order to check the serviceability of the parts in front of our eyes. You will need a tester for this. We check each conclusion for operability, if each of them works, we can conclude that the cable is intact. Next, we unscrew the two screws that hold the wire itself and unscrew a couple more screws.

We pry the temperature regulator with something thin, the next step is to remove the buttons and disassemble the upper part of the case. After all the screws have been unscrewed, remove the upper part of the iron. The nickname is tenn, and after the thermostat. We remove the thermal fuse and check its performance. If it fails, it should be replaced.

Video (click to play).

Replacing the thermal fuse is quite simple, the main thing is to find a suitable part to replace the old non-working tool with it. After replacement, we carefully assemble the iron back into a complete state, in stages, without rushing, not forgetting to insert the necessary parts into it.

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