DIY iron bork 1601 repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the bork 1601 iron from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.

Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:

Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General device of the electric iron

After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.

Video (click to play).

Tools you may need when repairing your iron

All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually some bolts under the covers.Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

Replacing the thermal fuse is quite simple, the main thing is to find a suitable part to replace the old non-working tool with it. After replacement, we carefully assemble the iron back into a complete state, step by step, without rushing, not forgetting to insert the necessary parts into it.

A neighbor's iron Bork i600 broke. It is necessary to try and disassemble it, although the chances of salvation after "smoke" are quite small. Below is a photo of the process of disassembling the iron, it may be useful to someone.

He lifted the upper part slightly with his finger, although you must first unscrew the screw in front of the iron.

We press on the lid from both sides and pull it forward. It has small latches.

Power cord retainer screws.

Bottom screw rubber plug.

Time to unplug the wires. We remember how they were connected.

Latches on the terminals prevent accidental disconnection.

Flex cable from control board on silicone or glue gun.

Parsing the bottom. Lift the tee out of the holders.

We remove the remaining terminals.

We unscrew the separator of the lower and upper parts of the iron. Three screws: two at the back, one at the front. But! Do not lose the holders that are on the back of this cover!

After all the cleaning, I put the iron back together. The electronics work, but the outsole does not heat up. Taking into account that the neighbor said that she “started to smoke”, I think that the heating element burned out. It would have been possible to measure the voltage at the terminals suitable for the sole, but the tester was in the car and it was too lazy to follow him. The iron has been eliminated. Good luck to you!

Thanks! He helped me a lot in repairing my iron, the tube burst at the place where the water was supplied to the heater.

Thank you, everything worked out, the iron was reanimated.

Thank you very much, they helped a lot! The water supply nozzles have melted.

Thank you for your help. There was no steam, I took it apart, blew it out and it all worked

But I have such a situation. In working order, the wife decided to pour water. He began to screech, I tried to drain the excess water and put it down with the handle. And now he's constantly ripping. What to do?

Tam odno rele podgorevshee & termo predoxranitely ne meshaloby proverit :-)

There was a similar situation. The electronics work, the iron does not heat. Replaced one of the 2 thermal fuses located on the soleplate of the iron. The iron works again.

Good day! I wanted to know if there were any spare parts from the iron?
The thermistor on the steam generator burned out, I cannot find it ((picture) on the sole with black wires)).

Hello, my control module beeps, the iron does not heat, is there a problem?

Thanks to the author for the instructions, helped with the repair (the fuse from overheating of the steam generator burned out)

Good day!
If anyone has spare parts from Bork 2400w, I will buy model 1600. You need a control panel in a handle, which, together with a loop and a control unit, is possible. I will be very grateful. My daughter is in trouble with this iron.

To fix an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made.Considering the device of the iron, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or a heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional units.

In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:

heater;
plug with cord;
thermal fuse;
Temperature regulator.

In order for the iron to start working, you should apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as "Roventa", powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the appliance will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing.

In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermal mode depends on the iron's thermostat, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need values of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.

An important unit for ensuring safety is a fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.

Before you repair the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cable. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.

Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may break and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong clap, shutdown of other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.

For women who are particularly sensitive, situations like this hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond with calls to their husbands, to the Emergencies Ministry and house management. The most correct option is the first, because any man whose hands grow from where they should be can make the iron turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the thing for repair.

The internet is filled with videos on the topic of ironing repairs. Many plots are devoted to the flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, you cannot do without disassembly. To make, for example, repair the Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean up problem areas.

The heating element in modern designs is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to get a new iron. But first, you should make sure that the problem is in the heating element.In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is associated with the heating element.The most common cause of heating element failure is coil rupture. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device terminals at the connection points.On some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in the other. If the fuse is faulty, then a false "diagnosis" can be made, suspecting that the heating element is malfunctioning. To find out exactly the reason for the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.

More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse is able to turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to discard the knot and short the circuit. This can be done in different ways:

by soldering;
by crimping a metal rod;
switching power wires.

In each case, it is necessary to achieve reliable contact.

Another common ailment is a problem with the steaming system. Sometimes in the Bosch iron, the button that starts the process is strongly pressed, and steam is not supplied. Repairing a Bosch iron should begin by unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should carefully pull out the two buttons regulating the steam supply up. They are not screwed in and are held onto the bushings by friction. Then you need to unscrew the screw, after which the plastic handle should be easily removed. There are two pumps under the cover: one supplies water to the sprinkler, the other supplies water to the soleplate to create steam. The steam pump needs to be removed. At the bottom there is a ball that sticks to the bottom of the chamber due to scale. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to push the ball into the chamber and assemble the iron in the reverse order.

Whatever iron you have to repair, you must remember about safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device to the network only when it is necessary; do not try to fix the malfunction with wet hands; during repairs, the iron must be installed on a stable, non-conductive and heat-resistant coating.

To read the instructions, select the file in the list that you want to download, click on the “Download” button and you will be redirected to the page where you will need to enter the code from the picture. If the answer is correct, a button will appear in place of the picture to receive the file.

If there is a “View” button in the field with the file, it means that you can view the instruction online without having to download it to your computer.

If your material is not complete or you need additional information on this device, for example, a driver, additional files such as firmware or firmware, then you can ask a question to the moderators and members of our community, who will try to promptly respond to your question.

You can also view the instructions on your Android device.

The BORK company presents an innovative novelty with a built-in steam generator - the BORK I601 iron. The integrated steam generator allows you to iron delicate fabrics even at low temperatures for a long time, without fear of shine on the surface of things. At the same time, the iron is lightweight due to the use of magnesium in the construction of the steam generator. The device has a vertical steaming function, which is indispensable for smoothing thin fabrics. The temporary shutdown function guarantees absolute safety when using the BORK I601.

Trusting an iron to iron delicate fabrics requires confidence that it is safe for the fabric. With the BORK I601, caring for wool and delicate fabrics becomes a pleasure. The device is awarded the certificate of the International Institute WOOLMARK INSTITUTE, which guarantees full compliance with all standards in the field of protection of wool from damage. The BORK I601 iron allows you to iron things with steam at a minimum temperature that require special care, without the risk of damaging the fabric (light dresses, thin blouses, silk bedding). Steam is generated in the built-in steam generator, which contributes to an even temperature distribution over the entire surface of the iron soleplate. To avoid the appearance of shine on the fabric, vaporization occurs at a low temperature. At the same time, the built-in steam generator does not weigh down the device, since one of its main components is magnesium, which allows you to keep the iron low in weight.

Professional technology at home

The BORK I601 iron is designed using the most advanced engineering technologies. The unique Touch Intelligent system with automatic steam adjustment automatically stops steam delivery when the iron is stationary. This helps to reduce water and electricity costs. An innovative limescale prevention system with a polymer filter is used to protect the device from limescale deposits. It keeps limescale in the water and prevents it from entering the steam chamber in the soleplate. The device's descaling system remains active throughout the entire service life of the iron and does not need to be replaced.

Together with the Touch Intelligent technology and the built-in anti-scale system, the service life of the iron is significantly extended.

This topic provides a photo with explanations:

dismantling the iron,
repairing it

So, your iron has broken down at your home, no matter from which manufacturer, the question arises: "How to fix the iron."

Testing of the electrical circuit, as for all household appliances, is carried out with a probe for example OP-1

or with a digital multimeter.

There is no significant difference in the schemes of irons from different manufacturers.

For a general presentation, consider a sequential electrical circuit of connections iron Philips

The first wire of the phase or zero potential from an external power source has a plug-in connector with the terminal, from the terminal through the thermostat, the wire goes to the heating element. The second wire from the external power source has a contact detachable connection with the second terminal, from the second terminal the electrical circuit has a serial connection passing through a thermal fuse and closes at the second terminal of the heating element. The control lamp and the fuse are connected in parallel to the two contact connections of the heating element.

The electrical circuit is closed on the heater - heating element and light bulb. The thermostat sets a certain temperature regime for heating the iron.

Closing and opening of the electrical circuit occurs in the thermostat itself due to a change in the bimetallic plate under the influence of the heating and cooling temperature of the heating element. The reasons for the malfunction of the iron are as follows:

a break in the cord wiring at the base of the plug;
mechanical damage to the wiring of the cord along its entire length;
burnout of the heating element of the sole of the iron;
oxidation of the contacts of the bimetallic plate of the thermostat;
blown thermal fuse

What can be replaced here during testing:

replace the cord;
replace the plug;
clean the thermostat contact;
replace the thermostat;
replace thermal fuse

Replacing the heating element in case of its malfunction, which is the sole of the iron, does not make sense, since the sole of the iron itself is more than half the cost of the iron itself. In this case, the sole of the iron is thrown away, everything else from the iron goes to spare parts. When disassembling the iron, care should be taken to avoid damaging the iron body.

It should be remembered that testing for detecting a malfunction of the iron is carried out in a passive way without connecting to an external power source. Immediately before connecting the iron to an external power source, it is necessary to measure the total resistance of the electrical circuit with a digital multimeter, which should not be zero on the device display.

Iron repair - moulinex

This topic is complemented by personal photographs and an accompanying description of the repair of the iron. As an example, consider a malfunction of the Mulinex iron.

So, before us is the Mulinex iron and the reason for its malfunction is unknown to us in advance, that is, we need to establish the exact cause of its malfunction.

In the back of the iron, photo # 1, in order to remove the cover, you need to unscrew the screw. The screw head, as you pointed out, is not suitable for our domestic screwdrivers. How to get out of the situation if there is no similar screwdriver? - Here, too, you can find a way out, for this we need small scissors with sharp ends. We insert the two ends of the scissors and we can easily unscrew the screw.

After unscrewing the screw, carefully open the cover with a screwdriver photo # 2. At the same time, we try not to damage the lid body.

After removing the back cover of the iron photo No. 3, we can see the terminal connection of the wires of the network cable with the iron elements:

heating element heating element.

Next, carefully open the lid of the iron handle with a knife, photo # 4. We put small parts from the iron handle and screws into a mug.

To directly get to the contacts of the thermostat photo No. 5 and the heating element, or in other words - the sole of the iron, we turn off the parts one by one.

For novice specialists, you should remember the sequence of such disassembly so as not to create confusion for yourself in the further assembly of the iron.

The screwdriver in the photographs shows the attachment points for such parts.

That is, here you need to be careful about the disassembly, as it were.The body and individual parts of the iron are supplemented with fasteners such as latches.

A screwdriver shows the knob of the thermostat, photo # 7, and we need to remove one more cover, which is the heat sink of the iron plate.

The photo shows additional places of such connections, photo No. 8, we also continue to unscrew the screws and free the sole of the iron from the lid.

Well, here we got to the most interesting, so to speak - the contacts of the thermostat photo №9. The thermostat contacts are indicated with the tip of a screwdriver.

The thermostat knob sets the heating of the iron soleplate set by us. In order to prevent overheating of the heating element, the thermostat design has a bimetallic plate, which, upon reaching the preset heating temperature, disconnects the contacts. As the bimetallic plate cools down, the electrical circuit closes and the sole of the iron heats up again.

We carefully inspect the contacts of the thermostat, that is, we check this section of the electrical circuit with a probe.

For this example, the iron malfunction was the oxidation of the thermostat contacts. We clean the contacts of the thermostat with a piece of fine emery paper and once again carry out diagnostics with a probe for this area.

In addition, of course, you should also check the heating element of the iron itself.

Iron diagnostics

The photograph shows the signal lamp of photo # 10. The lamp in the electrical circuit is connected in parallel and if it burns out, this does not entail a malfunction of the iron as a whole.

In this photograph, the fingers of the hand show the contacts of the heating element of photo # 11. We carry out diagnostics of the heating element.

To do this, set the multimeter device in the resistance measurement range. With two probes of the device we touch the contacts of the heating element, on the display of the device we can see the resistance reading - 36.7 ohms.

The meter reading corresponds to the resistance of the heating element. We carry out diagnostics for the general electrical circuit of the iron photo No. 13.

We connect the two probes of the device with the pins of the plug, the result is clearly visible to us on the display of the device. That is, the resistance reading for the general electrical circuit of the iron is two tenths more.

Video (click to play).

So we figured out the malfunction and fixed the iron. As you have seen, we cannot do without diagnostics both for individual areas and for diagnosing the circuit as a whole.

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