Do-it-yourself maxima iron repair

Previously, the portal VashTechnik dismantled the Saturn electric kettle - I did not like it. However, the opinion of the iron is different. Also assembled Guangdong; 15 seconds after switching on, you cannot touch. The ceramic sole is equipped with 19 steam outlet holes around the perimeter, it really (corresponds to the assurances of the reviews) is excellently scratched. What to expect from a device that costs 200-300 rubles? There is a spray function. Steam operation is only possible at high sole temperatures. There are many photos below, see, admire. We decided to consider repairing the iron with our own hands, guided by the obvious reason: the Runet network is devoid of a worthwhile description of the process. Common phrases, pictures that do not shine with clarity. Today the plan is to repair the irons on their own.

Saturn is believed to be the patron saint of Saturday. Any undertakings go very badly, they turn out to be ugly, ugly. Saturn is a success in appearance, the self-cleaning function does not work well. Looking ahead, let's say: from the inside from the tank to the heating chamber there is a hole covered by a three-way nipple. The self-cleaning function corresponds to the upper position, the liquid flow is maximum. Practically inoperative. Here is a guide to the procedure:

Set the heating regulator to maximum.

Water, steam from the holes refused to pour, after disassembly it turned out: 6 out of 19 fake holes. No other word comes to mind. Made in the same style, the boiler area overlaps only the front 13. The photo of the sole is attached, you can see what you need.

The task was to understand why the self-cleaning mode does not work. Whether it is a malfunction. We are starting to disassemble the iron!

Let's start with the rear wall screw, which is not covered by anything. Difficulties will begin further. Knowing a lot about disassembling the irons, they guessed: they were still hidden by an unknown place of fastening. The screws are located under the buttons, the water inlet cover, the power regulator. In this case, the first one turned out to be the correct option. It was possible to find out by breaking one button. It can be clearly seen in the photo: each key has a pair of teeth sliding in the holes of the case, at the same time serving as limiters. It is enough to pry on the back tooth with a screwdriver, removing the button, if you don’t know in advance ... As if the plastic keys were molded brittle on purpose, there are varieties that are more elastic. We believe intentionally; trying to prevent unskilled intervention. As a result, one button (of a steam boost) became unusable, we will glue it with Titan, readers will have to predict the final alignment of affairs.

So, having removed two buttons, we find another screw, it is supposed to unscrew. Difficulties are not over, the handle and rear wall panel is additionally fastened with three spikes (see photo) on the spout. We cannot tell you how to properly disassemble! Finally, the cover is dismantled. Then it is simple:

• The tank with pumps and steam regulator is held in place by three screws. One in the bow, two in the tail. Gently remove the soleplate temperature controller by pulling it out. Held by three pins, in a D-groove. Notice the small steel brace that secures the regulator and clicks when shifting (see photo).
• The tank is pulled together, at the same time the steam shock pump path is opened. A metal tube runs through the structure, from the boiler to the pumps.

Tank, pumps of the Saturn ST - CC0211 steam iron I wanted to look at in more detail. First, look at the steam ring. Responsible for the height of the bronze rod, ending with a nipple. Through it, the water reaches the sealed soleplate tank, turning into steam.The ring is plastic, in vain. During operation, the part will begin to wear out. Consequently, the tank will gradually start to poison the water. Note:

• There is no protection against water leakage from the assembly (pump, nipple stem) into the back of the handle that goes to the electrical part.

In the iron there is grounding, the wire is screwed to the aluminum part of the sole, molded in one piece with the tank. Here comes the power supply of the heating element rolled inside. Connected by terminals, not protected against moisture ingress. Therefore, if you forget to ground the iron, moisture will get into the electrical part, possibly fatal to the user of the iron. Connect the device correctly to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Each pump is equipped with a piston, it is possible to remove it parallel to the return spring. The sprinkler pump does not differ from the steam boost pump. You need to press both sharply, otherwise, instead of a trickle in the direction directly along the course, you get streaks that fall on the clothes. The sprinkler pump is connected to the spout nozzle, the steam shock pump is connected to a vertical steel tube that goes into the sealed container of the iron soleplate.

The indicator light is on in parallel with the heating element. A thermostat with a regulator is separated from the supply voltage. When the soleplate temperature knob rotates, the screw deflects the elastic plate up and down. The contact secured here is located above a bimetallic plate screwed to the sealed sole tank. By fine adjusting the screw position, the correct temperature is achieved. The degree of bending of a bimetallic plate is determined by heating. The relay switches with a slight click, we suppose (not tested), there may be small magnets that slightly delay the operation, making the stroke more abrupt. It is often done in a similar principle of operation of the start-up protection relays of refrigerators.

Notice the bag is visible next to the temperature control. There is a thermal fuse inside, screwed by a bracket to the sealed reservoir of the sole. The element of the electrical circuit is not soldered, seated on the clamping terminal, like a heater, is considered a major drawback of the device. By accidentally hooking a part, it is easy to disrupt the operation of the device as a whole.

From what has been said, we conclude: the inoperability of the self-cleaning system was the result of poor design thought. Checking has established: the nipple moves correctly, in the extreme position of the steam adjustment lever it reaches the upper position. Hence, the problem is caused by two reasons:

1. Bottom hole of the outlet of the sealed tank of the soleplate of the iron.
2. Poor nipple setting.

We just decided to avoid touching the device, leave it as it is for the following reasons:

1. The iron perfectly works out the modes, excluding self-cleaning.
2. The self-cleaning function can be replaced by boiling the soles of the device with a vinegar solution, no less effective (more likely - more).

Since the device works for 300 rubles, it makes no sense to wish for more. The frequency of self-cleaning is not indicated, we consider the repair of the iron with our own hands complete. We will fix the key when the glue appears. Readers will be pleasantly surprised by the detailed disclosed iron device.

Most devices are designed according to the diagram. The review will help you to repair Tefal irons, repair Roventa irons, repair irons with a steam generator, and other current work. From the note, the main types of malfunctions are clear, how to eliminate:

1. The indicator does not light up. An open in the power supply circuit or a blown thermal fuse.
2. The alarm does not turn off, although the iron heats up for a long time. Temperature controller relay defective.
3. Water drips from the iron. The tightness of one of the pumps is broken. It is urgent to turn off the device and master the repair of steam irons.
4. No steam. Defective nipple, regulator wheel, or clogged water or evaporation tanks.
5. The iron does not heat. If the power indicator is on, the heating element has burned out. Unambiguous conclusion, because the lamp is connected in parallel.
6. No spray jet. The nozzle orifice is clogged, or the left pump is not properly sealed.
7. No steam boost, steam generation works. Sealing of the right pump is broken.

We believe that now the repair of the Tefal iron that has appeared on the horizon will not make readers faint. From what you read it is clear: the most important steps are assembly and disassembly of the iron. The repair is simple. As proof, we place a large photo of the junction of the right pump and the steam hose. Try to collect at your leisure!

In everyday life, various devices are used for heating and cooking food, cleaning, washing, ironing and many other daily tasks. Due to work in extreme conditions, the electric iron very often breaks, scratches and clogs. Repair of the Philips Mistral iron (Philips), Bosch Sensixx'x (Bosch), Braun Optistyle (Brown), Tefal Aquagliss TurboPro (Tefal), Electrolux and others can be easily done with your own hands at home.

It will be much easier to repair the device yourself if you know how it works and what it is made of. Structurally, the iron consists of a sole, temperature regulators, fuses, an electric cord. Device:

In some modern steam installations (for example, steam generators, which are also subspecies of irons), there may be more parts, but the four described is the basis of any scheme. Typical faults include:

1. The outsole does not heat up. The problem often occurs both with expensive models such as Braun Optistyle, Kambrook AKI, Moulinex, and cheaper International, Orion, Bravissimo or Vitek - Vitek. Most likely, an urgent repair of the fuse or thermostat is required. The first can break off the contacts, and the second can oxidize the contacts;
2. The iron does not turn on. The power cord may need to be repaired; Photo - checking the cord
3. The steam function does not work. Steam generator problems are either related to the thermostat or clogged steam holes in the soleplate. Cleaning required;
4. The modes do not switch - the temperature controller is broken.

Photo - repair Tefal

Let's consider how to disassemble irons from Tefal avantis, comfort, MAGNIT RMI-1525, Delfa, Daewoo and others for repair. Step-by-step instruction:

Immediately, we note that after disassembly, warranty repair will no longer be provided, so if this is the first independent experience, it is better to immediately take the iron to a service center.

Video: Scarlett Iron Repair Tips

Let's take a look at the process of cleaning the soles and inner elements. You need to disassemble the iron and separate the sole. First, it is blown through with a vacuum cleaner with a furniture (narrow) brush - this is necessary to remove dust and particulate matter. Then you need to put the sole (only if it is metal) in a bowl of water, vinegar or citric acid. For 1 liter of water, take a glass of vinegar or 5 tablespoons of acid. Together with the container, put the iron on the fire, heat the bowl and boil for several minutes. Repeat up to 5 times.

Photo - dirty soles

In addition to such available tools, you can use the most common descaler for cleaning pots or teapots. After that, we wipe the device and put it to dry; the next day, use is not recommended.

Step-by-step instructions on how to repair the thermostat of the Silter, Ufesa, Rowenta Steam Force, Bosch TDS or VES iron:

1. Disassemble the device, disconnect all wires. To check the condition of the thermostat, you need to turn it several times in both directions until it stops. When it reaches the extreme position, a group of contacts should be triggered, and a click will be heard;
2. If there is no click, then the fuse is defective. There are two options for solving the problem: short-circuit the wires so that the iron does not turn off or install a new regulator. Of course, the first is cheaper and faster, but the second is safer and more reliable;
3. For soldering, you can use the simplest hand-held soldering iron. In order to replace it, you will need to buy a similar item, preferably the same brand.

A little harder clean the soleif the steam controlled device refuses to steam clothes. The reason here lies in the clogged condensate holes. Tips from the masters:

1. Gently slide a cotton swab into them and twist it several times. You can pre-moisten it with alcohol or vinegar;
2. Iron the salt onto cotton clothes. This is an old proven way to quickly bring steel and stainless steel to work;
3. If you have problems with your ceramic or Teflon iron, it is better to have it cleaned by a specialist. Any workshop will undertake this work.

Photo - scheme

What to do if your iron is Rowenta Focus DW, rainford, Philips Elance or Polti Vaporella Forever 1800 Eco Program does not turn on:

1. The first step is to check the power cord. It can break both along its entire length and at the point of connection to the iron. To check this, unscrew the cover that presses the wire to the contacts and check them. If no problem is found there, most likely the cause is a wire breakage along the length. It is most advisable to simply replace the cord with a new one; Photo - cord fastening
2. The device may also not turn on due to a thermostat failure, a fuse, or a malfunction of the power contacts. In some models, water can directly contact vital parts, from which the circuit is oxidized. You need to completely disassemble and check the sole. If you find oxidized compounds, clean them with alcohol.

It is worth noting that if the sole is cracked or the circuit burned out, then it is inappropriate to carry out repairs on your own. It is better either to immediately refer it to specialists (if the model is expensive, say, Philips pro Azur), or buy yourself a new iron (if Elco, Maxima MI, Taurus breaks down).

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with:

To fix an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering the device of the iron, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or a heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional units.

In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:

• heater;
• plug with cord;
• thermal fuse;
• Temperature regulator.

In order for the iron to start working, you should apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as "Roventa", powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the appliance will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing.

In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermal mode depends on the iron's thermostat, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need values ​​of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.

An important unit for ensuring safety is a fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.

Before you repair the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cable. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.

Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may break and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong clap, shutdown of other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.

For women who are particularly sensitive, situations like this hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond with calls to their husbands, to the Emergencies Ministry and house management. The most correct option is the first, because any man whose hands grow from where they should be can make the iron turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the thing for repair.

The internet is filled with videos on the topic of ironing repairs. Many plots are devoted to the flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, you cannot do without disassembly. To make, for example, repair the Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean up problem areas.