In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Tefal fv9347 iron from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Tefal avoids releasing ordinary irons. All steam rooms. One of the few companies that introduced wireless models on the market. Let's say with some confidence: Tefal shares the first or second place with Philips in this segment. The only wireless irons to reach Russia. The design is much different, the base is formed by the same fundamental elements. The soles are the same. Conditioning the similarity of the heating elements. It is not surprising that many people strive to repair the Tefal iron with their own hands. The leader in sales of the domestic market.
Starting with the simplest Soviet irons, the design includes the following elements:
Regulator housing.
Sole.
Spiral rolled into the sole.
A set of electrical connections.
An ordinary iron is equipped with two removable parts. Outsole, back wall with cord. Bolts are always put in, the art is finding fasteners. Old Soviet iron heads were hidden under the knob of the regulator. And removing the latter was sometimes a problem. More often it was possible to do the necessary with a slotted screwdriver, driven by skillful hands. The back wall could be bolted or simply snapped into place. In the latter case, the connection became short-lived. But behind the back wall, you can find a block where the power cord is attached. A faulty cable causes 20% of faults. Accordingly, we will ring the veins immediately.
It is convenient to repair irons by discarding the Chinese tester. The regulator changes the preload on the bimetallic plate. Turn the knob, try to understand if the sensor is working properly, how smoothly it works. If potholes have formed, some areas do not transmit electric current well, it will be immediately visible. Of course, irons equipped with the function of automatic adjustment to the fabric are deprived of the regulator, in most cases, as half a century ago, a round rotating die is located under the handle. And what is behind the sole.
Video (click to play).
The bolts are unscrewed, we get access to the heating element, the regulator mechanism. In modern irons, the body hides at least two interesting details:
Iron Thinking of us Tefal
The first one takes an arbitrary place, determined by the design. The second took a fancy to the nose. Away from the sole, of course. The scheme of action is as follows:
the sole reaches the desired temperature;
liquid is automatically supplied from the reservoir;
under the influence of temperature, water becomes steam;
the steam boost is dumped by a special button that pumps a slightly larger amount of liquid.
The calorific value of the sole of the iron is below infinity. Time will pass between the two bursts of steam. There are schemes where emissions are separated by short time intervals by twos and threes. As with semi-automatic shooting. Then - an indispensable pause. There are devices with pre-heating of water by a boiler. It is clear that there is no boiler inside, the water heater is really worth it. A higher temperature will make it easier to get steam. The FreeMove cordless irons in cycles look great. Heating - 4 seconds, work 25 seconds. Heat is stored by the sole, by water (water heat accumulators based on swimming pools in private houses will help explain the principle of operation). The process is controlled by automation, enough energy has been accumulated, a green light starts blinking, indicating: you can start ironing.
Wireless irons can be discussed separately. The design is slightly different from the usual with steam. Many manufacturers have an option with a cord fastening attached, but a feature of Tefal irons: wireless means - no wire.
Before you start repairing the Tefal iron with your own hands, follow the light indication.The models have built-in light bulbs, diodes that help to grasp the meaning of the problem. The network one, which does not want to burn, indicates: there is no power. The cord must have spoiled the case. Heating does not light up, faulty: contact, spiral. Easy to check. In good condition, the resistance of the heater is calculated according to Ohm's law. The rated power is taken, the current voltage of our country is 230 volts. Divide the first by the square of the second, you get the desired resistance in ohms.
A modern iron contains a thermal fuse. The accessory has taken a liking to the sole, tears the connection when the parameters exceed the norm. Irons that adapt to the type of fabric have no drawback. Allowed to be left on on the ironing board, it will cost. A broken scheme is another matter. Fuses are bimetallic and wire. The latter are called disposable: they require replacement. Protect electric kettles, the trigger is set to a lower temperature.
The iron refuses to heat - having ascertained the integrity of the cord, we examine the heating element with a tester. The automation of complex irons is failing, so try dialing. Check the relays, thyristors that control the power section.
Pay attention to the thermostat. Clean the contacts of the mechanical slider with graphite from a pencil. Improves sliding. The simplest regulator changes the response temperature of the bimetallic relay. Complex - forms a resistive divider, acting as a rheostat. This is not the best method, some of the power is lost. Graphite fearlessly tolerates heat and serves as a lubricant. Contacts can be cleaned with fine sandpaper.
There are many reviews devoted to the topic. Let's recommend a little-known effective method. You will need a clean frying pan that will fit your iron. Get some strong vinegar.
Pour a centimeter into a bowl with a 5% solution. Put three coins inside so that they don't block any of the holes in the sole. We put the iron on top. Naturally, we disconnect the device from the outlet. The water boils, cools. Repeat the cycle 2 - 4 times, then rinse the sole. Most irons are self-cleaning. Pour in water, holding the soleplate horizontally over the sink, press the button, letting the liquid drain. Recipe cleans iron holes, bottom strokes. Carrying out the procedure periodically, clean the coins to avoid the appearance of rust on things.
Try to use distilled water. Apart from the typical filter, the old-fashioned method. Boil the water! Hardness salts will collect the spiral of the electric kettle, the dirt is not as bad as on clothes. In irons with boilers, vinegar is used normally for periodic cleaning. The tool is universal; manufacturers of steamers, steam cleaners, and other household appliances like to recommend using it. Remember: do not clean rubber items with vinegar. Applies to gaskets for washing machines, dishwashers, water heaters. The spray arm contains rubber parts. Vinegar is bad for the knot. Will cause premature aging of the product, wear of parts. Self-repair of Tefal irons will lead to a new headache.
The spray arm sometimes has to be cleaned. Water refuses to splash forward through the spout - the hole is clogged. Avoid using vinegar, citric acid, chemicals. Carefully use matches, pins, and other trifles, buy an anti-scale agent for washing machines, dishwashers. Removes sediment formed by powders with conditioner on the tank walls. Dishwasher cleaner, washing machine cleaner is perfect for the spray arm. Clean the rest with acetic acid. It will not be superfluous to read the instructions, practice shows: the paper usually goes directly to the basket.
Repair of irons with a steam generator is fundamentally no different from ordinary ones. The big word simply means a water tank with an automatic valve, a button. The location of the holes in the sole allows you to examine the built-in steam generator. Lined up with an edge: water simply drips from the container into the center.When the holes have dotted the surface, there is a flow heater or boiler inside. On the way to the bottom, the water becomes steam.
Repairing the Tefal iron is a task that requires at least a little experience with the tool. You should be aware that some models of the brand cannot be repaired at home without special equipment and skills. Consider how you can repair an iron of this brand with your own hands.
A device that you don't even have to try to repair with your own hands is cordless ironTefal... There are various options for such devices on the market:
with contact pads;
with a sole that accumulates heat;
with a detachable power cable.
The first two categories clearly require diagnostics, disassembly and repair using special equipment: it is unlikely that such an iron can be repaired at home. The third category has a clearly defined weak area. The scheme of work looks like this:
The iron with a cable connected to a special mechanism is included in the 220V network.
When the temperature set by the regulator is reached, the cable is shot off by the spring block.
Until the temperature drops, the cable cannot be inserted into place: it is not fixed, and in some models it is not even inserted.
The problem of irons with cable shooting is one - they have two thermal control mechanisms: the main one and the cord fixation. Over time, the owners of such a model will have to switch to the following scheme of action: after ironing a part of their clothes, wait for the temperature to drop, insert the cord, move the regulator to a higher value and wait again. The reason for this behavior of the iron is in the oxidation of the bimetallic plate of the shooting control device. It is enough to clean it, replace it, in some cases just fix it.
How to disassemble an iron from Tefal correctly? They provide multilevel mounting scheme... The following features are available:
The top cover cannot be removed with the main body.
To get to the electronic components, you need to unscrew the screw in the nose. It can be seen in the area of the water dispenser through the translucent plastic.
The steam supply devices are accessible after removing the top cover. To do this, you need to dismantle the buttons that close access to the mounting screw. By unscrewing them, you can remove the top cover and gain full access to all components of the device.
The initial dismantling of the Tefal hull is no different from the scheme used in other brands:
It is necessary to remove the clamping screw or screws that are located under the cover at the rear of the case. They must be screwed in to unlock and remove the cover.
There may be a few more fasteners under the lid, located under the water tank or under the plastic head of the thermostat.
Lift the plastic case carefully. In addition to screws and self-tapping screws, it can be fixed with latches. You can find them with a thin strip of steel (with a knife blade or a screwdriver) by passing along the body.
To access the electrical part, it may be necessary to remove the protective cover. It is also fastened with several self-tapping screws, which are easy to find.
Tefal irons can have a complex body shape, so you need to carefully and thoroughly inspect it for the presence of open or hidden clamps and fastening points.
After removing the upper case and inner protection covers, the disassembled iron looks like this:
It does not matter which model of the iron is disassembled for repair and diagnostics. Devices with steel sole or branded Ultragliss have the same knots. Problems can arise due to the failure of a disposable thermal fuse, oxidation of contacts, clogging of steam outlets, the occurrence of contamination and the consequences of corrosion due to moisture ingress on areas under voltage.
Among Tefal irons, the following breakdowns are common.
In Tefal irons, steam is not activated by the command of a button. This plastic part presses against the hollow tube, which transfers the force to the corresponding contact.The part often cracks over time. It is useless to glue - the tube has thin walls and will not have sufficient strength. For repairs, you will need a shrink hose, which can be purchased at an electronics store. The hose is put on a plastic tube and heated, for example, with a lighter. After repair, the part is installed in its original place.
The most common problem with irons is damaged power cord... It is necessary to check the condition of the fuses (one of them may be in the plug), the absence of carbon deposits on the contacts, the absence of chafing, creases and other mechanical damage. The area where the cable enters the plug and the body of the iron is especially carefully examined. If damage is found, the cable must be replaced. The contact comb, located in the rear part, under the housing cover, is also subject to careful examination.
The entire construction of the iron is carefully examined. Areas where limescale or oxidation is present are cleaned out. For this, a fine sandpaper, a brush, light acidic detergents, ethyl alcohol can be used. The cleaning procedure is mandatory - in most models, water and steam directly enter the current-carrying elements of the circuit.
There are several ways to clean the sole. One of them is to use cotton swabs dipped in in vinegar... They are pushed as deep as possible into the nozzles and turned. The availability of other methods depends on the sole material:
Metallic - cleaned with salt. It is enough to iron a cotton cloth covered with fine salt at maximum heat.
Ceramics and metal can be cleaned with a mild citric acid solution. To do this, take a large frying pan into which the solution is poured (about a centimeter) and 3 coins are put. The iron is installed with the sole on these coins, but so that its nozzles are not covered. After that, the solution is brought to a boil and cooled naturally. The procedure is repeated 3-4 times.
Blocked nozzles must be pierced with a toothpick or needle before cleaning. Teflon-coated irons are best taken to a specialized workshop. Depending on the characteristics of the surface and how long it is used, home methods can lead to flaking or other impairments to the smoothness of the sole.
It is not recommended to clean your irons with vinegar. Exposure to high-temperature acid causes oxidation of electrical working circuits, leads to plastic brittleness, and can lead to irreparable damage to pumps and regulators.
If the decision is made to use citric acid, the contact areas should be protected. Wrap the attachment points of the wires of the heating element of the iron with electrical tape or close it with heat shrinkage, for example.
Cleaning the iron thermostat is quite simple. The assembly is disassembled and carbon deposits are removed from the contacts. A strip of suede is suitable, which is moistened with alcohol or citric acid, stretched between the contacts (zone 2 in the diagram) and driven until the amount of dirt decreases. It is not recommended to use skins and abrasives - the surface becomes rough, current surges are stronger, as a result of which burnout occurs even faster.
The thermostat of the iron may fail bimetallic plate, whose task is to interrupt the electrical circuit. The element is not repaired, only replaced. Another problem is stem breakage. It is made of ceramics; the part, if desired, can be made from an improvised material, for example, a resistor. But in most cases it is easier to change the entire iron thermostat.
The listed repair actions can be done by hand if you have even a little experience with electrical engineering. More complex operations, for example, troubleshooting problems with the iron position sensor or electronic components, are best left to specialists.