Do-it-yourself Moulinex iron repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of mulinex irons from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

this is 150, and I have 200, but outwardly exactly the same.

I've already figured it out, but I can't open my butt

Brother, bachu, yak you have a mustache smoothly іz cimi praskami.
Infected to take a photo of Moulinex's picking up and picking up a lecture photo call, maybe with comments. I myself have been tormented by Ocealys 200.
Terpіnnya….

Brothers, I see how complicated everything is with you with these irons.
Now I will take a picture of the disassembly and assembly of Mulinex and post a detailed photo report, possibly with comments. At one time, he himself was tormented with Ocealys 200.
Patience…

This topic provides a photo with explanations:

dismantling the iron,
repairing it

So, your iron has broken down at your home, no matter from which manufacturer, the question arises: "How to fix the iron."

Testing of the electrical circuit, as for all household appliances, is carried out with a probe for example OP-1

or with a digital multimeter.

There is no significant difference in the schemes of irons from different manufacturers.

For a general presentation, consider a sequential electrical circuit of connections iron Philips

The first wire of the phase or zero potential from an external power source has a plug-in connector with the terminal, from the terminal through the thermostat, the wire goes to the heating element. The second wire from the external power source has a contact detachable connection with the second terminal, from the second terminal the electric circuit has a serial connection passing through a thermal fuse and closes at the second terminal of the heating element. The control lamp and the fuse are connected in parallel to the two contact connections of the heating element.

The electrical circuit is closed on the heater - heating element and light bulb. The thermostat sets a certain temperature regime for heating the iron.

Closing and opening of the electrical circuit occurs in the thermostat itself due to a change in the bimetallic plate under the influence of the heating and cooling temperature of the heating element. The reasons for the malfunction of the iron are as follows:

Video (click to play).

a break in the cord wiring at the base of the plug;
mechanical damage to the wiring of the cord along its entire length;
burnout of the heating element of the sole of the iron;
oxidation of the contacts of the bimetallic plate of the thermostat;
blown thermal fuse

What can be replaced here during testing:

replace the cord;
replace the plug;
clean the thermostat contact;
replace the thermostat;
replace thermal fuse

Replacing the heating element in case of its malfunction, which is the sole of the iron, does not make sense, since the sole of the iron itself is more than half the cost of the iron itself. In this case, the sole of the iron is thrown away, everything else from the iron goes to spare parts. When disassembling the iron, care should be taken to avoid damaging the iron body.

It should be remembered that testing for detecting a malfunction of the iron is carried out in a passive way without connecting to an external power source. Immediately before connecting the iron to an external power source, it is necessary to measure the total resistance of the electrical circuit with a digital multimeter, which should not be zero on the display of the device.

Iron repair - moulinex

This topic is complemented by personal photographs and an accompanying description of the repair of the iron. As an example, consider a malfunction of the Mulinex iron.

So, before us is the Mulinex iron and the reason for its malfunction is unknown to us in advance, that is, we need to establish the exact cause of its malfunction.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of mulinex irons

In the back of the iron, photo # 1, in order to remove the cover, you need to unscrew the screw.The screw head, as you pointed out, is not suitable for our domestic screwdrivers. How to get out of the situation if there is no such screwdriver? - Here, too, you can find a way out, for this we need small scissors with sharp ends. We insert the two ends of the scissors and we can easily unscrew the screw.

After unscrewing the screw, carefully open the cover with a screwdriver photo # 2. At the same time, we try not to damage the lid body.

After removing the back cover of the iron photo No. 3, we can see the terminal connection of the wires of the network cable with the iron elements:

heating element heating element.

Next, carefully open the lid of the iron handle with a knife, photo # 4. We put small parts from the iron handle and screws into a mug.

To directly get to the contacts of the thermostat of photo No. 5 and the heating element, or in other words - the soles of the iron, we turn off the parts one by one.

For beginners, you should remember the sequence of such disassembly so as not to create confusion for yourself in the further assembly of the iron.

The screwdriver in the photographs shows the attachment points for such parts.

That is, here you need to be careful about the disassembly, as it were. The body and individual parts of the iron are supplemented with fasteners such as latches.

A screwdriver shows the knob of the thermostat, photo # 7, and we need to remove one more cover, which is the heat sink of the iron plate.

The photo shows additional places of such connections, photo No. 8, we also continue to unscrew the screws and free the sole of the iron from the lid.

Well, here we got to the most interesting, so to speak - the contacts of the thermostat photo №9. The thermostat contacts are indicated with the tip of a screwdriver.

The thermostat knob sets the heating of the iron soleplate set by us. In order to prevent overheating of the heating element, the thermostat design has a bimetallic plate, which, upon reaching the preset heating temperature, disconnects the contacts. As the bimetallic plate cools down, the electrical circuit closes and the sole of the iron heats up again.

We carefully inspect the contacts of the thermostat, that is, we check this section of the electrical circuit with a probe.

For this example, the iron malfunction was the oxidation of the thermostat contacts. We clean the contacts of the thermostat with a piece of fine emery paper and once again carry out diagnostics with a probe for this area.

In addition, of course, you should also check the heating element of the iron itself.

Iron diagnostics

The photograph shows the signal lamp of photo # 10. The lamp in the electrical circuit is connected in parallel and if it burns out, this does not entail a malfunction of the iron as a whole.

In this photograph, the fingers of the hand show the contacts of the heating element of photo # 11. We carry out diagnostics of the heating element.

To do this, set the multimeter device in the resistance measurement range. With two probes of the device we touch the contacts of the heating element, on the display of the device we can see the resistance reading - 36.7 ohms.

The meter reading corresponds to the resistance of the heating element. We carry out diagnostics for the general electrical circuit of the iron photo No. 13.

We connect the two probes of the device with the pins of the plug, the result is clearly visible to us on the display of the device. That is, the resistance reading for the general electrical circuit of the iron is two tenths more.

So we figured out the malfunction and fixed the iron. As you have seen, we cannot do without diagnostics both for individual areas and for diagnosing the circuit as a whole.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.

Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:

Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General device of the electric iron

After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.

Tools you may need when repairing your iron

All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is sometimes quite difficult to disassemble the iron. This is due to the fact that every year manufacturers devote more time to the design of an electrical appliance, creating invisible latches and screw holes. Initially, prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further actions.

One of the main malfunctions of the iron is precisely the power cord, which you, in fact, plug into the outlet.

Get to the point where the contacts are connected to the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use a tester to ring the cord to determine its operability.

For continuity, you can use a homemade control consisting of a piece of wire, a battery and a light bulb.If the light is on when you connect the contacts to both ends of the cord, go ahead.

If the power cord is the cause of a breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (the problem area may be removed). Iron doesn't work anyway? We replace the cord with a new one!

The second in line is the thermostat. We also check it using a dial tone, which we attach to the contact group.

When the temperature control is rotated towards the closed circuit, the electrical circuit should function. Is the light off? We clean the contacts with sandpaper and check again. Immediately we recommend watching the video repair instructions:

Is the thermostat working, but the iron does not heat up? Let's start checking the thermal fuse!

More often than a power cord, this element of the circuit fails. Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value.

Using the dial tone, we determine the performance of the fuse. If the reason for the breakdown of the iron is in it, we replace it with a new one, or even remove it from the circuit altogether. During normal operation of the temperature controller, there is no need for a fuse.

Well, the last of the reasons why the iron does not work is the failure of the heating element. If the equipment turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, most likely this is the case. As in previous cases, using a homemade tester, we determine the performance of the product. The heating element is fixed to the sole and if the attachment point is one-piece, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if the reason is in it).

In the event that the heating element is connected to the sole with the help of tips, you can try to repair the iron with your own hands by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. Still not heating up? We send the equipment for recycling, because a new part costs almost the full cost of the device!

We draw your attention to the fact that if you throw the equipment into the trash, it will be more correct to disconnect the power cord and keep it for yourself. Perhaps this element will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, especially since it will not take up much space in the closet!

If the malfunction is that the iron steamer does not work, then, most likely, it is necessary to clean the internal vaporization cavities. To do this, we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter to 1 glass. We install the sole in the container (as shown in the picture), bring the water on the stove to a boil, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After that, we repeat the event 3 more times, which is quite enough for high-quality cleaning of the spray bottle.

In stores, you can see special descaling agents, but we highly do not recommend using them. This is due to the high cost of funds and at the same time low efficiency, in comparison with the folk method! It should also be noted that there are many negative reviews on thematic forums that the iron does not work after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that salt crystals clog the holes for the steam supply, as a result of which you have to thoroughly clean the sole.

Another reason why the sprinkler does not work is that the steam button has broken. It can also be called with a tester and replaced if necessary.

That's all the instructions for repairing an iron with your own hands. As you can see, the event is quite simple and even a novice electrician can do it! Finally, I would like to note that if the red indicator on the case flashes, do not panic, because this may indicate a certain operating mode or automatic shutdown after heating. Read the instructions that came with the package to understand the reason for the blinking. We hope that now it became clear to you what to do if the soleplate does not heat up and how to repair the breakage at home!

Related materials:

A simple solution if an iron breaks down is to buy a new one in the store, which does not always suit a man who can hold a screwdriver and a soldering iron in his hands. Some problems can be eliminated by replacing the elements or by connecting the burnt contacts.

To do this, you need to know the structure of the iron, and clearly follow the instructions for repairing an electrical appliance with your own hands.

Before running to the store, you need to figure out whether it is possible to eliminate the cause of the malfunction, to try to get the "comrade" to work normally. Only when it becomes clear that the iron cannot be repaired can you please yourself with a new purchase!

To successfully repair the iron, let's get acquainted with its device. Regardless of the manufacturer, the device has in its design in various versions:

High quality durable plastic body;
A massive metal sole, which can have holes when steaming is provided in the iron structure;
Heating element - heating element;
Power plug;
Power cord;
Sole temperature regulator (thermostat);
Overheating protection (fuse);

To open and repair a broken device, you will need the following equipment:

Flat and curly screwdrivers;
Sharp knife;
Control and measuring device - multimeter or LED continuity;
Pliers;
Soldering iron, flux, solder;
Insulating material or heat pipes;
Sandpaper.

In order not to break the device completely, you need to open it correctly. Everything is not as simple as it seems at first glance. The design of the iron provides for both latches and screw fasteners. We start with the visible connections. We take a screwdriver in our hands and unscrew the screws, disassemble the plug.

In modern irons, three wires with different colors are used to connect to the network. Red is usually a phase, the other two are neutral wire and ground. If there is no visible damage to the contacts in the plug box (rupture, melting), we continue to study the malfunctions further.

We open the back panel from the side of the power cord. We look at the terminal box. When we visually see that the cord is melted, the contact has burned out, we do not disassemble the iron further.

We fix the problems. It is enough to strip the wire, connect it to the terminal box. Using the device, we check the integrity of the electrical circuit. When everything is in order, the iron can be used.

When the problems are not in the power cord and plug, we continue to disassemble the iron further. Slowly and carefully pull the buttons, knobs and levers up. If there are screws under them, we also unscrew them. We pry the latches with a wide knife.

In order not to break them, do not pull the case from the sole when something rests against it and does not allow it to be removed. First, we squeeze out and unscrew everything that interferes. The latches are very fragile, we disassemble the device carefully!

When repairing an iron on the Philips and Tefal models, under the removable side cover on the side of the power cord, we find and unscrew additional screws. It is necessary to remove all fasteners, release the removable housing from all latches!

When there are no flaws on the side of the power supply cord, and it does not require replacement, we check the main nodes in order until we find a breakdown:

Heating element performance. We use a device for continuity of electrical circuits. When everything is in order with the heating element (we receive sound, arrow or light confirmation), we continue to look for faults further. If it burns out, there is no point in replacing it, it is better to buy a new iron! Repairs can be more expensive.

We check the integrity of the thermostat circuit. When the contacts are burnt, the iron will either not heat up at all or will not turn off, it will work continuously. We take sandpaper or a nail file and repair the thermostat.

Carefully disconnect the stuck together contacts, clean them of carbon deposits, try not to bend the plates on which they are attached. If we can't fix the problems, we decide what to do next - buy a spare part, a new thermostat, or - an iron.

Check if the fuse has blown. We call. If necessary, we solder it, replace it with a similar one. The fuse is very important. Do not exclude it from the electric circuit of the iron, short-circuit the connection without it. If the thermostat is faulty, it will simply burn out, protect it from fire.

We check the water spray system and the condition of the steam generator. We clean the iron from scale. We repair mini-pumps that supply water to the sprinkler and the sole. It is possible that its mechanisms are stuck and require cleaning.

It is important to carefully check the integrity of the system, to find out what is not working and why. Try to eliminate the reasons for the complete inoperability of the device or abnormally working functions - steaming, spraying, shutdown.

During the repair process, all checks should be done when the iron is disconnected from the mains. Some authoritatively advise looking for a phase when applying current to the device when it is turned on. This must be done carefully enough so as not to accidentally close the zero contact and phase with the same screwdriver. You can get a painful electric shock.

Do not forget about personal safety, put the iron on a flat surface, do not try to repair and check its performance with wet hands.

When, after all the checks, it turns out that the electrical appliance cannot be repaired, with a clear conscience we run to the store to buy a new one!