DIY repair in a combined bathroom

In detail: do-it-yourself repair in a combined bathroom from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Repair of a combined bathroom with your own hands

If you are planning to make renovations in your apartment, then the bathroom renovation should be done first. Repair in bathrooms is a rather laborious and time-consuming business. To make the result of work durable, functional and beautiful, it is better to entrust it to professionals. But if you are familiar with the basics of repair work and are confident in your abilities, then you can do a good repair of such an important area in the house with your own hands.

Let's note some points of the repair in the combined bathroom. Indeed, many forget, and some do not even know what the sequence of repair work should be in this part of the dwelling, which building materials are best used. After all, the humidity in the bathroom is constantly increased - therefore, materials that are resistant to steam and moisture are needed.

Therefore, the main purpose of this article is to help you complete repairs in a bathroom combined with a toilet. The sequence of repair work will be considered and the main stages of the technological process will be described.

So, what you need to be prepared for and what you need to know about if you decide to carry out repairs in the bathroom in Khrushchev. When repairing a bathroom by professional workers, you can be sure of the quality of the work result. They comply with all the necessary technological processes and carry out them competently. But they will not be cheap either.

Now about the materials required for the repair of the bathroom (it is recommended to buy them in advance). You will need:

Video (click to play).

sewerage fittings,
polyethylene pipes,
collector,
filters and water meters,
mixers,
bath,
primer,
moisture resistant gypsum board,
tile,
tile adhesive,
grout,
plaster,
waterproofing mixture, with
ear concrete,
silicone sealant (its color should be the same as that of the grout),
Door.

It is necessary to determine in advance where the bathroom and toilet, washbasin, heated towel rail, washing machine will be located. Layout is necessary for proper piping in the bathroom. Plumbing points must also be located in the right places. This also applies to outlets.

At this stage, the doors are removed, the room is freed from plumbing, pipes, old tiles and plaster are removed.

Today, pipes made of metal-plastic, polypropylene and cross-linked polyethylene are used. Let's take a closer look at these types of pipes, and which ones to buy - the choice is yours.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are quite reliable and cheap, the easiest to carry out installation work. The connection of these pipes can be made using screw or compression fittings. Compression fittings are more reliable in operation.

Polypropylene pipes are more reliable and durable. The connection of such pipes is carried out by welding, so the master must have some experience when performing the installation.

Cross-linked propylene pipes are some of the best. They have a long service life (from 50 years). Installation is carried out using tension sleeves, which guarantees no leaks, no rubber gaskets. And most importantly: not connecting correctly will not work. After replacing the water pipes, go to the sewer. Replace all old cast iron elements with plastic ones.

Next, the electrical wire is wired. It is recommended to carry out a whole piece of double-insulated wire with a light, a washing machine, hoods and sockets and put the machines on.

First, we prime the walls, and after drying we make plaster. Don't forget: the corners must be straight (90º each).

We perform the leveling of the floor as follows: first, you also need to prime it, then shoot the road mesh and fill the lighthouses with a cement-based mixture. If your bathroom has a high threshold, then it makes sense to waterproof the floor in case of emergencies (if water leaks suddenly, it will not leak to the neighbors). If the threshold is low (about 1 cm), then there is no point in waterproofing. There are special mixtures for waterproofing. They must be applied directly to the screed.

Any material is suitable for its manufacture, the best of all is a special moisture-resistant drywall (only wood is not recommended). Choose a hatch based on the size of the tiles.

This work is carried out on a level, under the comb, as well as in other rooms. Make sure to match the seams at the corners. After laying, the seams are rubbed and sealed with a sealant at the junction of the bathroom and the tile.

Here is the basic workflow for a bathroom renovation. You are armed with knowledge, you can safely get down to business. In addition, you will now be able to evaluate and control the performance of the work by the master. Good luck with your renovation work! Let the result be a high-quality and beautiful renovation and the pleasure that you did it yourself!

When carrying out repairs in an apartment, it will certainly come to a bathroom with a toilet. If you have some experience, skills and decide to make a do-it-yourself bathroom renovation, first answer a few questions:

what do you want to get in the final result from bathroom and toilet renovation;
how much you expect to spend on repairs;
What kind of repair is needed: cosmetic or major.

The bathroom premise is perhaps the leader among all the others in terms of the number of visits per day, so you need to approach it responsibly and take into account such characteristic nuances as high humidity, steam generation and temperature drops.

The renovation process will begin with the dismantling of old and installation of new water pipes. You should not do this type of work yourself, unless of course you are a professional plumber. Otherwise, you are in for a flood and a lot of trouble. If you decide to do this on your own, buy plastic water and sewer pipes.

For sewer pipes, the connection is made using rubber gaskets, and for water pipes, a soldering iron. After completing the installation, you must check the connections for the possibility of leaks.

The location of communications must be carefully planned in advance so that in the future it does not hinder the progress of work.

Since the bathroom is a very humid room, then the material for surface finishing must be moisture resistant and not be afraid of a sharp change in temperature. You need to rid the walls and ceiling of the previous

If you have a large area, you can sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Further, the surfaces are covered with a primer, which will also serve as protection against fungal diseases. After final drying, you can proceed to further work. For finishing, you can choose moisture-resistant wallpaper, painting materials or ceramic tiles.

If you have a combined bathroom, you can choose materials for finishing in two colors, thereby visually dividing the space.

The most important condition is compliance with your wishes, taste preferences and, of course, the presence of harmony is important. To lay the tiles, stock up on glue, the tiles themselves, a level and a spatula for applying the mortar. Place the glue on the wrong side of the tile and press it firmly to the surface. Do the same with the rest. Laying should be started in the direction from the floor to the ceiling.

If necessary, the material can be cut with a special tool. When lining the walls, take into account the location of the heated towel rail, which must also be replaced.Choose the battery that you like best, since the assortment in the store is simply huge.

When carrying out repairs yourself, you are solely responsible for the selection of material and design for the room. When separating the ceiling, give preference to moisture resistant plasterboard or plastic panels. These materials are quite simple to install and operate. And their fasteners are made on a metal frame.

When installing, provide holes for mounting lighting fixtures. Feel free to experiment with the color of the ceiling, making it to match the wall decoration.

In apartments with an old layout, the bathroom has a very small area, which needs to be maximized, at least visually. This can be achieved with the help of color schemes and little tricks: use mirrors, they perfectly enlarge the space visually.

Opt for underfloor heating, which is installed with a special electrically heated floor covering, or with hot water pipes (called a water floor).

For flooring, you can use laminate, ceramic tiles, parquet or linoleum.

The main selection criteria are moisture resistance, resistance to temperature changes and the absence of a slippery surface.

Following all the above recommendations, you can carry out an independent repair of the bathroom. However, be prepared for the fact that you will spend a lot of time, however, the result will fully justify your costs.

Find out how not to repair a bathroom:

Helpful repair tips:

These are such tiny spaces, which is called "do not unfold." Therefore, we decided to combine a bath with a toilet. We have two advantages at once:

the bathroom becomes more spacious
instead of two doors in the corridor there will be one, which means additional space in the corridor, which is also small.

This is what we have in the bathroom: small tiles on the floor, tiles, metal-plastic pipes, a partition between the bathroom and the toilet - brickwork. We cleaned the walls as much as possible of tiles and a layer of paint. The sink was removed, it must be replaced, but the bath was left, it is cast iron and in good condition.

The ceilings in the apartment are multi-level, a niche is hidden under the plywood, although it was quite possible to make a cabinet. However, now this is irrelevant, we will change the location of the door.

Such a mosaic tile adorned the walls of the toilet, this one cannot be found now.

Branch of risers from the toilet to the bath. The pipes, as we can see, in this old house have been replaced with new ones.

The red brick partition is decorated with a decent layer of plaster - 3-4 cm, we knock down all this "wealth". We will dismantle the wall. This brick is still useful to us.

We diligently knock down this entire thick layer of plaster, remove the fiberboard panel with which the pipes in the toilet were sewn up. We closed the toilet itself so as not to clog it up. As you can see, there is enough dirt!

We work in the old fashioned way, with a wide chisel and a hammer. All this work could have been done with a puncher, but we did not have one. All materials are already old, so plaster and tiles are easily knocked off.

This wall was hidden behind a layer of plaster and tiles.

The most difficult thing was to remove all this "beauty", as we can see, the workers did not regret the mixture.

The walls are uneven - at the ceiling, the thickness of the plaster layer reached as much as 6 cm.

We shoot down everything, we remove the lamp.

This is how the wall opposite to the partition looks like, it is also brick. We knock out the ventilation grill, put a new one in its place.

Now, finally, the most interesting thing - we dismantle the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, the bricks, as I said, we keep, they are in good condition, so why spend money on extra materials. We store whole bricks in the bathroom.

This is what we get in the end, when all the garbage has been removed, the wall and the door frame of the toilet have been knocked out, there will be a wall here.

There will be minor difficulties with the new floor, because there is a decent difference between the bathroom floor and the toilet floor, see how the stool is crooked.

Now this difference must be leveled as much as possible, with a hammer and a chisel we knock down everything unnecessary, remove two layers of tiles in the toilet.

See how much space will be in the bathroom combined with the toilet, there will be space for both the sink and the washing machine.

There is a lot of work with the floor in the toilet: check out which layer you have to remove, almost ten centimeters, to the very foundation.

We are preparing a place for the future wall, there used to be a door here, but there will be a wall, in the toilet in this place it will be possible to place a cabinet or shelves for accessories. An excellent solution for such a small apartment.

We arm ourselves with a trowel and a cement-sand mixture and erect a new wall. Do not forget to use a level so that the wall is even.

View of the new wall from inside the toilet. Simultaneously with laying out the wall itself, we close up the cracks. An old bathroom door frame serves as a wall border. Subsequently, we will break the old box and put a new door.

This is how the work goes: broken bricks are also used, they can be inserted into large cracks, and then covered with a mixture.

Outside view: this is how much space to add in the corridor due to the fact that there will be no door. In a small area, every centimeter of roads.

The lamp was attached to the wall, but for now it just hangs from the ceiling. In the distance, you can see the niche between the slab and the ceiling. Of course, it would be possible to make a locker, but we abandoned this idea, it will be too high and very unlikely to be used often.

We close it up with a brick, cover up the cracks. The old brick was not enough, so I had to buy a new one.

now it's time to disassemble the shaft with the riser. Everything had to be done very carefully so as not to turn off the toilet and not disrupt communications. After all, it's not easy to live without a toilet.

They dismantled everything down to the pipes. There's a hole in the floor. To prevent the old cast-iron pipe from falling, we reinforce the floor with fittings, put boxes on the meters so that they do not suffer during repair work.

We close the hole at the site of the mine with a cement-sand mixture.

Level the floor between the bathroom and toilet.

We dismantle the toilet. We sew up a pipe riser. To do this, we needed metal profiles and the most common foam plates - it is cheap and absorbs excess water noise. We leave the revision window for access to the counters. We seal all the cracks with polyurethane foam. The pipes for the heated towel rail are immediately brought out.

We insert a new corrugation for the toilet. Before that, it was cast-iron, and now it is movable plastic, which means that there will be no problems with installing a new toilet.

We sew up the riser with plasterboard sheets. We make serifs on the walls so that the finishing materials hold better.

Here is such an ideal riser we end up with. It seems that the entire wall is sewn up, but this is not so - you can see a hidden hatch here so that we can have access to the plumbing system. For this we came in handy awnings for furniture and a push mechanism for the door.

Now you can go back to the floor, now it can be finally leveled to get rid of that unfortunate drop. Our helpers in this are a cement-sand mixture and a spatula. We leave to dry.

Because our walls are very uneven.They will have to be properly leveled and an impressive layer of plaster is indispensable. We install metal beacons for plastering, we will lose a couple of centimeters of space, but we have to sacrifice so that the walls are perfectly even.

We prime the surface, this is necessary in order to strengthen the wall itself (do not forget that the brick is very old) and this will improve the adhesion to the finishing material.

Plastering process. As we can observe, the layer is impressive, 3-4 centimeters.

Due to the fact that we have installed beacons, we can see which layer needs to be applied.

This is how it looks in the end. Let it dry.

We cover the entire surface of the walls with plaster, then we prime.

We pass to the floor. Our floor will be tiled with square tiles diagonally. This tiling method is not easy, but worth it. This arrangement visually increases the space, and because we have a small bathroom, we will try to add volume at least visually.

Before starting to lay the tiles, we prepared the surface - leveled it, repaired all the holes and potholes on the walls and floor, primed it. The primer improves the adhesion of the tiles to the floor. After applying the primer, let it dry.

Here is such a handsome floor we got in the end. Light-colored tiles again add space, and thanks to the pattern, dirt and drops are not visible on it.

It's time to remove the old door frame and install a new door. We dismantle the thresholds.

We collect a new door frame and install it in the opening. To prevent the door beams from bending, we put wooden wedges between the wall and the box.

The bases of the box themselves were fixed with metal corners. The outside wall of the bathroom is also plastered.

The door is the simplest, made of chipboard. Firstly, such a door is inexpensive and is quite suitable for our interior. We hang it on the hinges. Then we carefully foame all the seams and cracks between the box and the wall.

New toilet - new toilet. Installed in place of the old one. Now we move on to preparing the walls for laying out the tiles. Our tools are a spray gun, which is very convenient for priming walls, simple and comb spatulas, crosses. I fixed the level on the wall, it will serve us as a starting profile.

We knead the tile glue. He will check whether he is ready very easily - we take a trowel or a spatula and scoop it up: if it does not drain immediately and does not fall off in a piece. So the consistency is ideal, if it's too liquid, add the glue mixture, if it's thick - water.

On the wall, we have already pre-made notches for better adhesion of the walls and tiles and covered with concrete contact, for the same purpose. We draw marks for the tiles, we check everything with a level.

We begin to lay out the support row, do not forget to use the suture crosses, they guarantee that there will be no distortions.

We do the same manipulations with the other wall - we check whether the walls are vertical with a plumb line, fix the starting level.

This wall is the most difficult - here we have communications. Here you have to break your head how best to arrange the tiles, which did not have to cut a lot. We lay out a decorative border, we have it as a guide - where there is no profile (above the taps), a board was attached under the tiles so that the tiles would not slide off.

With a diamond drill we drill a hole for the wiring, bring out the wires - here we will have a lamp.

Another difficult area is the space above the door, there is no support row, so in order for the tile not to move, we will use good old scotch tape.

As you can see, we do not lay out the tiles up to the ceiling itself, there will then be a suspended ceiling, so we leave 5 cm.

We rub the tile joints.

Our tiles are in two shades of beige. Lighter tiles on the top and darker ones on the bottom help to visually increase the space.

It's time to install a new heated towel rail.Mark the holes for the fasteners and drill them.

Installing a heated towel rail is not an easy task; to mount it, you have to install a hook in the ceiling and hang it.

The holes on the wall are made, we report the tiles and in the same places we make holes already in the tiles itself.

Now it remains to lay out non-whole tiles in the corner.

We complete the styling process. In order not to confuse the cut tiles, we number them, which greatly facilitates the work.

Another way to save space in a tiny bathroom is to flush the pipes into the wall. First, cuts were made with a grinder, and then with a chisel, a chisel and a hammer, the grooves were hollowed out, where the pipes were placed. A new mixer was installed.

Now you need to make holes in the tile itself. To do this, we will use a special crown for drilling round holes. We install it on a drill and at low speeds in a couple of minutes we get a neat hole.

We glue the tiles, rub. No more pipes will disfigure our bathroom.

This is how our bath looks at this stage. We install the ventilation grill.

Alas, the pictures end there, but the renovation does not. It remains for us to arrange the ceiling. This will be an aluminum slat suspended ceiling. As we already said, our main task is to expand the space as much as possible, so we chose a glossy rail.
Spot lighting helped us make the bathroom very light and therefore spacious. Then we hung up a new sink, the space under the bathtub was covered with a special color-matched plastic screen.

As a result, we made a great transformation of the bathroom and got additional space, both in the bathroom itself and in the hallway. In the vacant space, you can put a washing machine and hang shelves. The renovation turned out to be budgetary, we used to the maximum what was still quite suitable (brick, bath) and chose the most inexpensive materials.

Do-it-yourself repair of a combined bathroom is a difficult task. And there will be much more difficulties than in the case of separate plumbing rooms. Problems begin with the fact that the number of layout options is limited to a small area, since only a few square meters are usually allocated for a combined bathroom in small apartments.

1 Main problems
2 Psychological
3 Technical
4 phases of repair
5 Snapping
6 Plumbing placement
7 The choice of plumbing
8 Ventilation
9 Design and materials
10 Some technical details
11 Conclusion

A reasonable approach is to understand the characteristics of the premises being repaired. It is important to remember that a bathroom is a place with high humidity and frequent temperature changes, and a toilet is a zone of vapors of harmful bioactive substances. Only imagining real conditions, you can decide what additional equipment or furniture will fit into the bathroom after repair. Is it possible to hang a boiler or cabinet without risking such a reduction in space that there will be nothing to breathe - all this is decided based on specific conditions. Before starting, it would be nice to know what problems will arise during the repair and determine the sequence of work.

Not every one of us is a designer who knows how to properly organize a space. But anyone is quite capable of mastering the basics of ergonomics - the science of how, through calculations, to create a comfortable space for living in a limited amount. Then you can avoid an unsuccessful layout, in which two people, if they find themselves in a combined bathroom at the same time, will interfere with each other. It's not bad if decisions are made jointly: more ideas will be proposed, and in practice you can check what constriction is.

A bathroom is a place where you need a solid waterproofing. Therefore, when performing floors, the thickness of the screed should be reduced, while deepening the "pelvis". The presence of harmful compounds of household chemicals in the air requires more attention to the ventilation device and the quality of materials. Technical complexity is a major source of expense.Naturally, there are ways to save money on repairs, but to reasonable limits. A decrease in cost, as a rule, leads to greater labor intensity in the performance of work.

Here is a detailed list of repairs:

binding to the room;
planning of places for plumbing;
choice of plumbing;
development of a communication scheme;
creation of a ventilation project;
design development and selection of finishing materials;
calculation of time spent on repairs;
dismantling of plumbing equipment;
repair of floors;
repair of walls and laying of communications;
installation of furniture;
ceiling repair;
installation of ventilation;
wall and ceiling decoration;
plumbing installation;
door installation.

At this stage of the repair, it is determined where the plumbing will stand, what the approximate layout of communications will be, the level of complexity and the cost of repairs. Plumbing rearrangements are often done in order to accommodate the washing machine. In the Khrushchev buildings of the late 60s, this is only possible when the bathtub is replaced with a shower cabin. But there are also layouts that allow you to outweigh the washbasin, instead of a full-fledged bathtub, put a sitting one and find a place for a washing machine.

The toilet most often remains in its place, since its outlet must be directly connected to the riser. Rare exceptions to this rule are still possible. In any case, the location of the sewerage system predetermines the binding of other objects.

The key rules, following which you can avoid flooding and problems with neighbors, are as follows:

The toilet outlet is connected to a 100 mm pipe that does not taper to a cross, otherwise flooding threatens;
The slope of the pipe coming from the toilet is 100 mm per meter;
Avoid horizontal corners of rigid sewer pipes.

When choosing plumbing, one has to be guided not only by its size, price, but also by design features. A stepped bath can solve the problem of installing a washing machine. In this case, it remains possible to wash while lying down. The drain hose from the washing machine can be lowered into the bath during washing without being puzzled by the connection to the sewer.

The corner toilet is very convenient: it can be installed near the doors, and it will not interfere with opening. But in Khrushchevs, the riser is usually located in the corner, and to connect the toilet not next to the riser, you will have to buy a crosspiece with a side pipe.

Sinks, both tulip and narrow, can fit perfectly into the bathroom and save space. But precise measurements and careful selection are required. Therefore, when going to the store, it is better to arm yourself with a tape measure.

Good ventilation in the combined bathroom is a guarantee of comfort. It can be provided by a powerful automatic fan that turns on at the specified temperature and humidity.

For the air flow, you will have to mount a grate in the door, or, when installing the sewer, place a piece of pipe in the wall combined with the kitchen. Both options have their drawbacks: it is usually cool in the corridor where the bathroom door goes out, and extraneous odors can be drawn from the kitchen.

In the design of the combined bathroom, the areas of the bathroom and toilet should not clearly contrast. The design of the toilet is decisive. Mirror tiles, mirrors and other ways to increase space look very advantageous. But installing screens, if you want to make zoning, is not the best way out with a small room.

The division of the bathroom into zones is determined by their functions: washroom, sanitary and bathing. In elongated bathrooms, their linear arrangement is recommended, and in square ones - radial. With a classic linear design, a bathtub is located in the corner farthest from the entrance, then, closer to the door, a toilet and a sink. When planning the distribution of zones, one should not forget about the primacy of binding to communications, otherwise a complex installation of pipes and crosses may be required.

The choice of materials is determined by the quality required for the finishing of the bathrooms.It is better not to save on materials, since the operating conditions in a combined bathroom are more difficult than in a separate bathroom and toilet.

The main thing when installing floors is good hydro and thermal insulation. It can be provided thanks to self-leveling two-layer floors.
Installation of electrical equipment is possible only outside, and lighting devices must be waterproof.
For walls and ceilings, only moisture-resistant materials are applicable: ceramic tiles or laminate without lathing.

Do-it-yourself repair of a combined bathroom requires experience, skill and a thoughtful approach. The functional component in the planning and execution of work is the main one. As for design and aesthetics, they are subject to real conditions and cannot be put at the forefront.

In order to make a do-it-yourself bathroom repair, and at the same time not be branded as a would-be master, it is enough to know the basis of repairing one of the most difficult areas of your home. I'm not talking about the various instructions that are generously littered with the entire Internet. Although you shouldn't neglect them either. I'm talking about the most important point, which is often forgotten, and many simply do not know how exactly the repair of the combined bathroom should take place, in what sequence to make the repairs, and what material should be used. Therefore, the main purpose of this article is, using the example of repairing a combined bathroom, to tell in what sequence to make the repairs, to consider the main stages of the technological process.a) If you used the services of a professional, you are counting on a competently performed repair of the combined bathroom, in compliance with all technological standards, then prepare at least 80,000 rubles. This is just for work. Prices bite, but you can be sure that all technological processes will be followed.b) The cost of rough material. The amount depends on the unevenness of the walls, the floor and what material the plumbing pipes will be wired from. But, as practice shows, the cost of rough material is at least 50% of the cost of work.

XLPE pipes

Pipes and fittings for domestic sewerage

Collector

Filters

Counters

Bath

Mixers

Primer

Plaster

Tiled glue

Dry concrete

GKL moisture resistant 12mm

Emulsion (hydroisol)

Grout

Sanitary silicone sealant (same color as grout)

Door

1. Make a plan for the location of the bathroom, sink, heated towel rail, toilet bowl, washing machine. It is advisable to choose all this in order to know in advance how and where to bring out plumbing points, how to organize the routing of water supply pipes. Consider the placement of the electric points.2. Dismantling. Old tiles are removed, if there is plaster, doors, pipes.3. Wiring of water supply and sewerage pipes, electrical wiring. Currently, three types of pipes are widespread: metal-plastic, polypropylene, and cross-linked polyethylene pipes.The first ones are very easy to install and cheap. Installation is carried out using two types of fittings: compression (screw) and pressing (press fitting). Press fittings are more reliable.Polypropylene pipes are better, but they require experience from the master in connecting them. The connection is made by welding. If the master is not experienced, then when welding pipes, a narrowing of the inner diameter of the pipe very often occurs.XLPE pipes are considered the best. Guaranteed for at least 50 years. This is the best system - pipe plus fittings (tension sleeve), zero leaks, zero human factor, that is, you can't do it right, there are no rubber gaskets, that is, it is not afraid of antifreeze.The same thing, if you have a cast-iron sewage system in your house, we also redo it for plastic.
Next, the electrical wiring is done. There is a separate wire on the sockets, lights and the washing machine, and their own machines are installed. Do not forget about the hood as well.4. Plastering the walls and leveling the floor. Before you start plastering, the walls need to be primed. We make the corners 90 °.We prime the floor, shoot the road mesh, and fill the lighthouses with sand concrete. Many do waterproofing before the screed. I prefer to use a liquid waterproofing sealant that is applied directly to the screed. In fact, if you have a sill from the bathtub to the corridor no more than 1 cm, then there is no point in waterproofing. All the water will still pass to your room, and then to your neighbors.Whatever happens, I recommend installing water leakage prevention systems (Neptune or Aquastop). In case you suddenly have a leak, the sensors will work and the taps will automatically shut off the water.5.Santech box. It can be crafted from any material (except wood). I prefer moisture resistant drywall. Knowing the size of the tiles, select the hatch.6. Tiling works. The tile is placed under the comb, according to the level. All seams in each corner must match. The outer corners are cut with a mustache. Image - DIY repair in a combined bathroom

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After the tiles are laid out, the grout is done. The corners and joints of the tile with the bathroom are sealed with a grout sealant, preferably of the same company and the same color as the grout.

7. Installation of the ceiling and installation of plumbing and accessories.

Installation of the ceiling at this stage is done only if you have it with rack or pinion. Otherwise, the ceiling is done after plastering.

8. The next and final stage is door installation. Installed on foam, preferably two-component. If your doorway width is greater than the width of the door frame, then use extensions.

Here are 8 main stages of repair, which must be followed in strict order, knowing them, you can always evaluate the work of any master and talk with him on an equal footing. As the saying goes, forewarned means forearmed. And now you have this weapon.

I wish you to achieve a quality repair and enjoy your own work!

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If earlier it was believed that a combined bathroom in an apartment is rather a disadvantage that reduces its cost, now the situation has changed dramatically. Even in large private houses, where there are no problems with the area, the owners prefer to create combined bathrooms. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, it is much more convenient in terms of hygiene. Secondly, a combined bathroom can significantly save money on the arrangement of water supply and drainage infrastructure. However, when repairing a combined bathroom, there are much more problems than when repairing a bathroom and toilet at the same time. How to properly repair a combined bathroom with your own hands - further in the article.

During the repair of a combined bathroom, the occurrence of problems is a natural companion at every stage. This is especially true for small apartments. The problems that most often arise during the production of these works can be conditionally divided into several types:

Technical difficulties. When repairing a combined bathroom, it is necessary to solve the problem of the most optimal placement of water supply and sewerage communications. In most cases, in the absence of a centralized hot water supply system, a boiler is still installed in the bathroom. The placement of all systems must be thought out even before the start of the repair in order to make the optimal purchase of materials. The combined bathroom must have an effective forced ventilation system. The natural movement of air through the ducts will not be enough to remove unpleasant odors and additional moisture. When implementing projects for the repair of a combined bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the probability of flooding in it will be twice as high. Therefore, it is worth taking the quality of the installation of communications with all seriousness.
Ergonomic problems.In the combined bathroom, it is necessary to arrange all the details in such a way that it is convenient to use them. Sitting on the toilet with your knees resting on the bathroom or shower stall will not be entirely comfortable. To plan a combined bathroom, you can use the PRO program.Thanks to this application, you can change the location of all parts in order to evaluate the convenience of their use even before buying.
Design problems. During the renovation of the combined bathroom, it is quite difficult to choose the style of decoration so that it is equally well suited for both the bath and the toilet area.

In order for the repair process to go smoothly, and the result was expected, it is necessary to draw up a small work plan.

As a rule, three mandatory devices are installed in combined bathrooms:

Sink.
Toilet.
Shower cubicle or bathroom in a combined bathroom.

There are several standard layouts of bathrooms that are used in their renovation:

Linear zonal. In this case, all of the above devices are installed in one line. It is quite convenient in terms of placing communications. However, such a layout requires a sufficient width of the bathroom.
Radial. Devices are placed around the perimeter of the room. This is a more convenient layout, however, during its implementation, it will be rather difficult to connect to each of the communication devices.

There are also certain technical requirements when planning a combined bathroom:

The toilet outlet must be connected to a sewer riser or crosspiece, with a diameter of at least 100 mm. A decrease in this indicator can lead to flooding of the bathroom.
The toilet should be located no more than 1.5 meters from the crosspiece. In this case, the slope of the pipe must be increased by 100 mm for each 1 m distance.
When laying sewer pipes, the presence of horizontal corners is unacceptable.
It is better to place the exhaust fan directly above the toilet, in this case, its efficiency will be maximized.

When it comes to choosing floors, there is no alternative for a bathroom. Only concrete screed in combination with a self-leveling polymer coating. For concrete, it is better to use a cement mortar with a minimum addition of sand. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on the floor. The device of underfloor heating in the bathroom has become very popular recently. In this case, special electric heating cables are laid under the tiles before pouring the screed. Heating makes getting out of a warm shower much more pleasant.

It is advisable to make a small side at the exit from the bathroom. Even if flooding occurs, water will remain in the bathroom and not rush into other rooms.

The most important thing in this matter is functionality, price and quality. You must be guided by the following:

You should not buy a cheap toilet, this can lead to sad consequences. Poor earthenware under load can crack, which can cause leakage at the most inopportune moment. In addition, a cheap barrel mechanism will add water consumption (they often do not hold, and water simply pours into the toilet), and will also create additional noise.
Shower cubicle. For a combined bathroom, it would be preferable to install a shower stall. In this case, it will be possible to retire while taking a shower, even if someone from the family has urgent plans. If you really like taking a bathroom, a hydrobox with high sides will be the best choice.
The choice of sink, both size and type, depends on how much space is allocated for it. With enough space, you can pick up a tulip with a large width. To save space, the best choice would be "trough" - long but narrow washbasins.

Due to the very high humidity, the hood in the combined bathroom should work perfectly, otherwise the smell of mold cannot be avoided. The most optimal fan power is 2.5 m 3 / hour. To turn it on, automation is usually installed.There are special relays on sale that respond to temperature or humidity sensors. The simplest option would be to parallelize turning on the fan to turn on the light in the combined bathroom. Then it will work all the time while the light is on. To avoid unnecessary noise and vibration, low speed fans with wide blades can be used, however, they take up a lot of space.

If the presence of sockets and switches in a separate bathroom is allowed, then in the combined bathroom they are placed only outside.

For finishing the ceiling, it is better to opt for plastic panels. They are relatively inexpensive and suitable for wet areas. Plastic is easy to install, washes well, is not afraid of moisture, has a long service life. A plasterboard ceiling, even made of a moisture-resistant material, is unacceptable for a combined bathroom.

Wall decoration is best done with ceramic tiles. Possessing all the qualities necessary for wet rooms, ceramic tiles have always looked presentable and beautiful. Currently, the trend is to combine tiles: a lower belt (usually dark), a decorative frieze, and an upper belt (lighter colors). To save money, the walls, like the ceiling, can be trimmed with plastic.