DIY repair in a Stalinist house

• Where to begin
• Wall finishing
• Floor finishing
• Ceiling decoration
• Kitchen renovation
• Finally

The houses of the Stalinist type, built in the 50s of the last century, by their own durability will give odds to any of the newly erected buildings. But this applies only to the brick walls of such houses, because the internal "filling" leaves the desire for the best.

Repair in stalinka is perhaps the most difficult of the various apartment renovations. But this is not a reason to panic, because even such a complex issue can be completely resolved.

1. You should start by finding out all the details about what you are dealing with. Stalinism and Stalinism are different, in almost all houses of this type, during their service life, restoration was carried out with the replacement of wood floors with concrete ones. In addition, you need to find out in what condition the wood logs are (the beams on which the floorboards are laid in the woody field), which are definitely available in the construction of the stalinka floor.
2. Partitions in such apartments are usually woody and crooked, so you should think about their possible dismantling and building new ones.
3. You also need to realize which type of finish for each surface (walls, ceiling, floor) will be more applicable both in terms of price and practicality.
4. It is necessary to start repairs by replacing old windows with modern plastic ones. Due to the fact that the walls of the stalinkas are thick and with a low overall thermal conductivity, PVC windows will be a good addition to the design, which keeps cool in summer and does not let the cold through in winter.
5. The next step is to replace the wiring. Due to the fact that the house was built with the entry of wood parts, the fire safety requirements in the stalinka are increased.

When making repairs to the walls in the stalinka, it is necessary to install their wiring inside, additionally placing it in a corrugated insulating pipe.

The "native" type of stalinka plaster is clay, under which the so-called "shingle" is placed - a wooden board that serves as the basis for partitions both inside the apartment and often partitions between apartments.

Here, the following options are provided for your choice:

• removing old plaster and installing the newest - an expensive and labor-intensive method, suitable in cases where ancient plaster is, well, completely crooked and inapplicable either for restoration or for cosmetic repairs;
• leveling the walls with plasterboard on top of the old finish is a cheaper and least labor-intensive method, but a side effect is a small decrease in the area of ​​the apartment, because the profile and drywall together have a thickness of at least 3 cm;
• wallpapering on old plaster - applicable only in this case, if the walls are smooth and reliable; of course, the cheapest, but at the same time a rare option.

Dismantling the old clay plaster is carried out using a perforator with a chisel inserted into it. After removing the old one, apply an even layer of the latest plaster, and then putty.

For finishing with plasterboard with your own hands, a special duralumin profile is screwed vertically to the walls with a step of 60 cm along the central axes, which is set strictly according to the level.

Then they expose the sheets of drywall so that their joint falls strictly on the central axis of the profile (the width of a standard sheet of drywall is 1.2 m), and fasten them with screws.

When repairing a bathroom in a stalinka, with the help of such a design, you can hide in a wall, for example, a sewer riser.

Advice! To give the walls the best sound insulation from neighbors, mineral wool can be hermetically laid in the niches of the profile lathing.

The walls are now ready for wallpapering.

Interior partitions deserve special attention. As needed, before finishing the walls, they should be disassembled, and in their place new ones should be erected from a light, non-thick cinder block.

Probably the most difficult process in the restoration of a Stalin-type apartment. Repair of the floor in the stalinka, as already mentioned, depends on the state of the previous: integrity, evenness, reliability of lags, etc.

If the floor is flat, does not creak and does not cause concern, then feel free to lay the flooring. Otherwise, it is necessary to open the floor and diagnose the problem. Under the floorboard, you can usually find, albeit slightly curved over 10 years of operation, but still not putrefactive logs spilled with slag.

They should be leveled using substrates and planing. And then, depending on your financial abilities, you can throw everything as it is and lay the final coating on an old floorboard (newly reinforced and not creaky), or you can construct a new construction from a dry screed.

The process looks like this:

1. A layer of old slag is removed
2. In its place, lighter expanded clay sand, which has the best sound and thermal insulation characteristics, is poured.
3. Dry screed plates, which are also called gypsum fiber boards (gypsum fiber sheets), are installed and fixed with glue and screws.
4. The front cover spreads on them.

Such a screed has a number of advantages over the wet method: it is quite easy to install, lighter, and in terms of reliability is in no way inferior to the standard one.

It should be noted that when repairing a bathroom in a stalinka, it is required to use GVLV (waterproof slabs).

Advice! To give the screed additional solidity, the joints of the plates must be excellently treated with a water-repellent sealant.

The procedure for finishing the ceiling with your own hands is complicated only by the need to remove old plaster, also consisting of clay.

For the rest, the repair of the ceiling in the stalinka is no different from the traditional one.

It is recommended to install a profile-plasterboard structure or stretch ceiling.

If you do not want to do redevelopment, kitchen renovation in Stalinka has no peculiarities. In case you are not satisfied with the small kitchen (often its dimensions are 2 by 3 m), you can demolish the walls between the kitchen being finished with your own hands and the room.

Usually, the layout of the stalinkas allows you to make one huge living room-studio, combined with a kitchen. This solution will visually enhance the multifunctional zones of both rooms.

Summing up the article, I would like to note that when making the reconstruction of the stalinka, it is necessary to be prepared for a large amount of construction waste, both because of their multi-room nature (often at least 3-4 rooms), and as a result

a large layer of "ancient" clay plaster, wood, curves requiring dismantling of partitions, etc. aspects.

You should also be careful with the dismantling and installation of new ceiling and floor wood floors in order to avoid collapses.

Hello!
I am starting the renovation of a 1 room apartment in a Stalinist house built in 1953. The renovation is planned to be not very large-scale and low-budget.
To implement the project, help me find answers to some questions:

1. I plan to combine a bathtub with a toilet + lay tiles. The walls in the bathroom are very uneven. Is it possible to completely demolish the bathroom and lay out the walls again. What material should be used. Foam block or tongue-and-groove plates ?? How to find out whether the walls of the bathroom are load-bearing or not? The structure of the crossbars, apparently, consists of columns and rails on them not wide slabs are laid!
2. What is the construction of the floors in such houses.The floor in the kitchen will be very strong, what to do with it? I don't want to break, what can I do to lay the tiles ?? Two layers of moisture resistant drywall possible ??
3. Where is the wiring usually located in such houses? I plan to replace it completely, it is necessary to coordinate it somewhere ??

1. you can combine. better lightweight construction - impregnated and primed drywall from moisture. The bathroom is usually made of planks and sheathed with shingles with plaster - not load-bearing, bearing in stalinka - brick walls. The floors are mainly wooden beams.
2. Wooden beams in most cases, if there was no reconstruction in the 70-80s. You can make sure - the air vents for the floor should be on the floor - ventilation holes, if the blunt-headed scoops have not laid the linoleum and closed them. Before doing anything with the floor, you need to make sure that the beams are not rotten. And make air vents under them so that they are ventilated. It is better not to put heavy loads on the floors. Drywall on the floor DO NOT STEEL.
3. In the plaster layer, permission is not required - replacement of the wiring and that's it. The main thing is not to hang electric stoves, boilers and other things, even a washing machine needs approval to increase power - hemorrhagic.

I found out the situation on the floors - they are made of slabs. I don't want drywall for the plumbing. What would you advise to make from? Criteria for quality, speed of construction, convenience of subsequent finishing, cost?

2mdog
then the brick is ordinary, but it is more expensive, but of higher quality and without hemorrhoids in further operation

I made from GVL (gypsum fiber sheets) ”>).
In two layers. Inside a slab of basalt wool. Three-meter GVL is difficult to buy and it is more difficult to work with them than with gypsum plasterboard. But the wall turns out to be much more like a capital one than a plaster wall. There is something to compare with - the gypsum is located a meter from the gypsum fiber.

Wooden floors in post-war Stalinist houses are rather rare. Alternatively, they may turn out to be like this: ">
If the kitchen, it is highly likely that some of the boards have turned into dust.

You will have to register the replacement of the meter. Do not throw away the old one, the inspector will need to take readings.

Enlighten the guru: if foam blocks or tongue-and-groove plates are used instead of bricks and drywall. Is it worse or on a level ?? What to choose a foam block or a groove comb? What material thickness is required at a height of 3.20? Thanks!

There are so many topics about tongue-and-groove slabs and foam concrete.

Do not forget that the latter must be plastered without fail, and you will also have to putty under the wallpaper. And the pipes cannot be hidden in them.

Slowly he began to pick the apartment!
What came up:

1. All partitions in the apartment are wooden. Covered with shingles and plastered.
2. The floor in the kitchen is wooden along the logs. The logs lie on compacted slag. Up to the bottom slab from the field level approx. 30 cm.
3. The wiring is hidden in rubber hoses.
4. The ceiling is lined with an incomprehensible material, something like chipboard.
5. The floor tiles in the bathroom are laid on a stitch that is poured directly over the slag without waterproofing.
6. A burst sewer riser was found.

1. What to change partitions for? If initially they were wooden, then will the floors (concrete) withstand the weight of the new partitions.
2. Is it worth taking out all the slag? For 50 years, it was heavily caked.
3. Whether to tear off the ceiling and make a new one out of kipboard or what would you advise.

mdog wrote:
Will the ceilings (concrete) withstand the weight of the new partitions

this requires a construction expertise, *********.

mdog wrote:
Is it worth taking out all the slag? For 50 years, it was heavily caked.

If it is heavily caked, why scoop it up?

mdog wrote:
Whether to tear off the ceiling and make a new one out of kipboard or what would you advise

I would not rip anything off, unless, of course, it falls on my head. Make a new one from gypsum board or tension.

Dear Gennady!
As a guru, tell me what to do with the slag.

Are you 100% sure that there are concrete floors? Most likely a screed over logs and boards.

2mdog remove the slag and fill everything with mineral basalt (not glass!) Wool, tightly without air.
the slag is filled in for sound insulation, so that it is not audible what is going on up and down there.
So there is a real chance to lighten the construction of the floor. And if you make a floating floor (from boards, screeds), then you can generally get very good acoustics characteristics.

2VladM
Yes, in stalinkas, a common thing is load-bearing wooden beams.

Overlapping 100% concrete slabs by region.

Gennady And if the foam is on top of the slag, and then the screed according to your technology.

Just 30 cm of basalt wool is too expensive.

mdog wrote:
Overlapping 100% concrete slabs by region

I have a wooden floor on the crossbars.
cross-section transom 300x100, length 6m, across the beam 150x150 4m

columns, regilas are laid on them, and floor slabs on them.
No photo yet.

IMHO, our houses are not adapted to such repairs. Disproportionate costs. Inability to apply normal technologies. On good, they need to be broken. these stalinkas. equally and percent. 70 Moscow buildings. I myself faced this directly, dismantling 4 garbage containers from a kopeck piece. True, there was still no 30 cm of slag. I believe that all houses of those years (and subsequent years too) are 100 percent construction defects that cannot be fixed. If, according to the snip, a wall that has a deviation from the vertical of more than 10 mm along its entire height is not subject to plastering (TR 137-03 Moscow). and so on and so forth. like this. on ceilings ... 30-50 bags per 20 sq.m. rooms. well, where does that fit. when slabs in an elite house with a price per square meter under 10 thousand lie with a drop of 5 cm, and this is not the worst option. the Germans correctly arranged a continuous demolition. and the quality of their houses (GDR) cannot be compared with ours.

2mdog
it is better to somehow lighten the structure even so, because you will load new materials.
if exactly concrete floor slabs, then put foam 30 cm

) grade 35 only.
the price will also be rather big. maybe it is possible to lower the floor level? Maybe nothing is in the way? Put 10 cm of styrofoam and screed over the mesh?

I opened the floor. Floor slabs are P slabs laid with the plane down. the space between the slabs is covered with slag, see 15. The thickness of the slab is 7-8 cm. Will these slabs withstand a screed with a thickness of 5-7 cm?

What I observed. Repairs in the stalinka. And so on almost the entire ceiling in the apartment. Support on cap. Walls. Partitions were demolished. In the area of ​​window openings, reinforcement was everywhere. According to the customer, when replacing windows, the lintel began to sag and, in an emergency, had to be jacked up with subsequent strengthening. It was done according to the project. In the process of repair, constant complaints from neighbors to various authorities, not even related to alterations.

Hello residents of Stalinki)
Please tell me who has at least some experience with the renovation of this series of apartments.
I want to start repairs, I don’t know where to start.
But I know what's in the kitchen. I changed the window to plastic. the floors are creaky and uneven, the ceiling is also bad.
What is the best thing to do with the ceiling? Gypsum? Stretch? or just whitewash?
With floors? to pull out old boards and lay new ones? or on top? I want tiles in the kitchen, is it possible to do this? will there be problems in the future? all the same, the floors are wooden.
Are the walls also better with plaster?

Better to start with the bathroom. The curvature of the partitions can prompt you to think about replacing them with new ones, which will simplify the task of leveling the walls for further decoration, replacing doors, plumbing and electrical equipment.

I'm sorry. The bath is already ready. I mean the rooms

step221565 wrote:
Hello residents of Stalinkas) Please tell me who has at least some experience with the renovation of this series of apartments. I want to start repairs, I don’t know where to start.

I started by scrutinizing this forum two years ago.