DIY repair in a trailer

In detail: do-it-yourself repair in a trailer from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The construction of a private house usually starts with a "construction trailer". On the market you can find many offers for the purchase of new or used wooden cabins. Even such a concept as "block container" has appeared in everyday life. It is made of metal, has a large number of equipment options and can already be used as an element of modular housing construction.

But it is a do-it-yourself change house on a wooden frame that is the most economical and optimal solution for a prudent owner. After the completion of construction, it can be used as a guest house, a shed for inventory and equipment, converted into a bathhouse or transported to a summer cottage.

The further use of the change house depends on its size, device and finishing materials.

As a small barn, no internal partitions are needed. There is also no need to insulate walls, floors and roofs.

If you plan to use the change house as a seasonal residence (for example, a summer garden house), then you can provide for the presence of an internal layout. It is better to carry out insulation at the construction stage - when using heaters, the change house with your own hands will be better to keep warm in spring and autumn, and in summer it will not get very hot in the sun.

For a construction trailer, lining can be limited to inexpensive and simple materials. Conversion into a garden or country house will only require revision in terms of decorative finishes.

It is best if the interior space is divided into at least two rooms. For example, the house in the first photo can be represented as follows.

Video (click to play).

A small vestibule-hallway and a large room with one small window - a typical DIY construction trailer.

And this is an improved version with three windows, which can be conventionally called a house with a living room and a bedroom.

In this diagram, the change house consists of three rooms - a vestibule and two equivalent rooms.

And of course, before starting construction, you need a simple drawing indicating the main dimensions.

Without it, it is impossible even to calculate the amount of materials.

How to build a change house - step-by-step instructions for building a change house begin with the foundation.

The peculiarity of a small wooden structure is its low weight. But even this does not mean that it can be placed directly on the ground. To protect against the effects of soil moisture (including precipitation in the form of rain and snow), an elevated base is required.

The simplest view is columnar foundation... Its strength is enough to withstand the weight of the change house. For temporary placement (and setting a horizontal level), bricks or cinder blocks are often used, laid simply on the ground. But in any case, it is better to use full-bodied blocks. Such an option as in this photo, even for a temporary foundation, is not the best choice, especially since the block was initially laid sideways and the pressure falls not on the walls, but on the voids.

Cinder block, although it belongs to concrete, but hollow blocks are used for the construction of walls.

Even a columnar foundation must be done according to the rules. A small depression is dug under each base, the bottom is rammed, a pillow of sand (at least 20 cm) is poured, which is poured with water and compacted, and blocks are laid on top. The sand prevents the capillary rise of moisture and acts as a drainage.

There are alternative options for a columnar foundation.

A geomembrane is laid on the ground cleared of the top layer, a layer of sand is poured on top, and then the base is laid out from the blocks.

Instead of sand, you can use fine or medium crushed stone.

Even large-format paving slabs can serve as the basis for a columnar foundation made of blocks.

For permanent deployment, it is possible to use asbestos-cement pipes dug to the depth of soil freezing and filled with concrete as pillars. This is if you are building not a construction, but a summer cottage with your own hands.

The distance between the posts is usually chosen based on the dimensions of 1.5-2.5 meters. Therefore, in addition to the corner supports, there will be 1-2 additional ones along the perimeter plus internal ones (for partitions and for a beam that provides the rigidity of the subfloor).

In addition to the columnar, the arrangement of the slab foundation is applicable. Of course, a reinforced concrete monolith is redundant for such a structure, but large-format paving slabs on a sand-filled foundation are quite suitable.

How to build a change house with your own hands, for this you only need dry wood. But this is not enough - all wooden elements of the frame and cladding must be treated with antiseptics. Moreover, working out is suitable only for "underground" elements, but the change house does not have them, and drying oil is only temporary protection from moisture and mold, therefore it is necessary to use antiseptics and fire retardants.

A bar of 150 × 100 mm is best suited as a lower strapping. This size is even used for the grillage of a columnar or pile foundation of wooden and frame small residential buildings. The simplest corner joint is in the wood floor.

This is followed by a second crown made of 100 × 100 mm timber. Moreover, the installation takes place with an internal "step" between the crowns. This is the optimal device for insulated floors. On a shelf of 50 mm, logs are mounted for a finished floor with a section of 100 × 50 mm.

Corner and bearing posts (for partitions and doors) are made of 100 × 100 mm timber, intermediate posts (including for window fastening) are made of 100 × 50 mm timber. They are attached to the harness using metal corners,

having previously set the level and fixed with temporary jibs.

Alternatively, you can use pins, which will additionally fix the corner connection of the strapping.

A frame wooden change house can be erected not element by element, but in sections mounted on the ground. This also applies to the walls,

and to the top harness assembled with the rafter system.

But such a technology will require the involvement of assistants, therefore, when building a change house with your own hands, more "lighter" (by weight) techniques are often used.

The upper harness follows the same rules as the lower one. The supporting beam along the perimeter has the same cross-section as the corner posts of the frame. The connection of the elements is carried out in the floor of the tree, having previously selected the grooves at the intersections. First, the long side is mounted, fixing it to the racks with a temporary fastener.

Then the cross bar is installed. After checking the levels and corners, the upper harness is finally attached to the posts with a metal corner.

For a pitched roof, and this is the simplest option, the upper strapping can be performed in two levels, when the front (or rear) racks are made at the required slope angle.

But there is also a more complex option using wall racks.

Intermediate posts (100 × 50 mm) are also fixed to the lower and upper strapping using corners.

The distance between the uprights is selected based on the width of the insulation and the size of the sheathing sheet material. If lining is used for interior decoration, and for exterior - block house or siding, then only the width of the insulation is of decisive importance. The usual recommendation is 600mm between the tine axles. This dimension is tied to drywall.

But when sheathing OSB (OSB) (the most common material for frame technology), each sheet will require cutting by 50 mm. Therefore, if the inner lining will be made of clapboard, then it is better to choose an axial distance between the posts of 625 mm. The size of the gap between the posts will be 575 mm, which is permissible for laying mineral wool with a width of 600 mm and a deformation strip of 50 mm.

For racks, between which windows and doors are mounted, their own criteria. You can, of course, make the frame of a paneled door and window frames from a bar yourself, but more often they buy finished products. Therefore, they will require the installation of additional struts and struts.

And if the doors are standard in width and height, then the windows can be large

or vice versa, a little more than a window.

Do-it-yourself change house There are many ways of attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat (in this case, to the upper strapping bar). The simplest one uses metal staples. For a more reliable fixation, you can either cut a groove in the rafter, or use a support bar.

Rolled waterproofing is attached to the rafters, and the crate is on top. The pitch of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material and the angle of the slope.

The most inexpensive is ondulin (a modern analogue of slate). For an angle of less than 10 °, a continuous crate is made, up to 15 ° - a step of 450 mm, more than 15 ° - 600 mm.

Change house do it yourself floor device. First, boards (or OSB-3) of the subfloor are attached between the logs. The protruding edge of the lower strapping beam (150 × 100 mm) is used as a support.

Then the surface of the subfloor is covered with a waterproofing film. For this, dense polyethylene is often used, but roll materials with bitumen or polymer-bitumen impregnation are considered more reliable. Hydroizol... The film is laid with an overlap between the strips of at least 20 cm, with gluing of the seams with construction tape. The edges of the stripes should go over the walls (the same 20 cm).

Insulation is placed between the lag. Better to choose mineral wool, for example URSA(URSA). Unlike Styrofoam, it is non-flammable and rodents will not start in it. Its only drawback is hygroscopicity and the property of loss of insulating properties when saturated with moisture (the same condensate). Therefore, a gap is needed between the finished flooring and the vapor-permeable membrane, or use Izospanthat does not allow water to pass through - this will protect the mineral wool from direct contact with water and allow water vapor to escape from it.

A tongue-and-groove board is best as a finishing floor. The principle of connection of the coating "thorn-groove" allows you to further protect the insulation from water ingress into it.

But you can lay the same OSB (OSB), and linoleum on top.

In order for the change house to be warm, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. Of course, cold air will not go down from top to bottom, but warm air will "evaporate". In addition, when it gets on a cold floor, it will cause condensation. That is why even for a pitched roof it is necessary to equip a small "attic" distance and insulate it with mineral wool. The principle is the same as for the floor: overlap (board or OSB), waterproof Izospan film, insulation (mineral wool).

Decorative cladding from the inside is performed in the same way as walls.

The classic frame structure sandwich has several layers: inner lining, vapor barrier film Izospan, insulation between the frame posts (mineral wool), a vapor-permeable membrane, a spacer bar (for the ventilation gap), OSB and decorative cladding.

In practice, the outer cladding for a change house can be "simplified" to one outer layer - either OSB or decorative trim. Given the low "aesthetic" properties of OSB, the second option is more often chosen, although the boards can be painted in any color like an ordinary wooden surface.

Most often, a house block is chosen for outdoor decoration.

It is stronger and "warmer" than lining and is more suitable for outdoor decoration. You can use imitation timber.

Vinyl siding is preferred by some as an alternative to wood paneling. It does not require maintenance and paintwork.

Interior decoration can also have an economy version of OSB (OSB) or Fiberboard,

which can be painted or covered with vinyl wallpaper.

But lining with wooden clapboard is more common.

An internal partition must be foreseen while developing the project of the change house, but it is not too late to equip it later.The main thing is that it is attached to one of the floor logs from below and the ceiling beam from above.

Outside and inside, window frames and doors are attached. The corner joints are trimmed from the outside with planks or wooden profiles, and from the inside with plinths and fillets.

Finish with wood sanding, primer and paintwork.

Since there was not enough money for a full renovation, as is often the case, our craftsman decided to put the apartment in order in stages.

Let me tell you a secret right away: the process dragged on for three long years. But the result was worth it.
First of all, the master began to reconstruct the bathroom. By combining a microscopic bathroom and toilet, it got a pretty decent amount of space. The walls, of course, had to be leveled. And for this purpose, sheathing with moisture-resistant plasterboard turned out to be the most optimal.

He installed the washbasin on a sturdy metal frame.

There was also a place for a new water heater.

The hot water stand was successfully camouflaged with a bath podium.

The wife chose the color of the tiles, mirror and shelf. It turned out very stylish.

Plasterboard was also useful for repairs in living rooms.

The craftsman successfully used the metal profile for the manufacture of shelves and niches for a TV.

And again my wife worked as a designer. She approved the color scheme and thought over the interior details.

The laminate on the floor was laid without problems using OSB boards. The bedroom is ready!

Finally, the turn came to the corridor. And here the owner again used his favorite materials: drywall and profile. Yes, I had to lose a few centimeters of space. But, on the other hand, removing old plaster and installing new one is a rather difficult task for a non-professional builder.

For the floor, laminate was again used. This time in combination with ceramic tiles.

And the final chord! The walls are faced with artificial stone, the ceiling is decorated with a decorative wood-like beam, unusual lanterns are hung.

The most laborious was, of course, the renovation of the kitchen.

It had to be partially rescheduled. The master shortened the wall between the kitchen and the living room, giving the small room additional volume.

A small piece of Styrofoam came in handy to cover the unnecessary window to the bathroom.

Floor tiles look luxurious. And the wall is decorated with plaster boards covered with a lacquer-sink.

The wall separating the kitchen and living room is decorated with the same white brickwork.

The refrigerator is conveniently located in a niche. The kitchen is just beautiful!

What a fine fellow our fearless craftsman! He was not afraid of difficulties, put effort and ingenuity, used the artistic taste of his wife and, as a result, transformed the old apartment beyond recognition. I built a real palace with my own hands!

The experience of reworking a purchased change house, in which the foundation "went" and skewed the walls, into a high-quality outbuilding.

Experienced developers know that a good change house is the one that is made by hand. Purchased options are a lottery, because the manufacturer saves on everything in their manufacture. A block of 5x5 cm is placed on the racks, there is no insulation, or it is made "on parole", and the paint will quickly peel off, because the cheapest is used. As a result, after a couple of seasons, the owner of such a semi-finished product thinks about how to bring the “ugly duckling”, whose walls are warped, or blows from all the cracks, into a normal barn. This is exactly the problem faced by the user of the portal with the nickname Nicht79, successfully remaking the purchased "kosyachny" change house into a high-quality one.

On what foundation to put the change house.
How to raise and repair an emergency change house.
How to make a canopy for a change house.
What is "boiled" paint for wood.

At first glance, it seems that the answer to this question is simple. We do it like everyone else - we take sand-cement blocks, put them on the ground and put a change house on them.

The result of this approach is predictable.

I have a purchased change house at my dacha. Soil on the site - earth on a shovel bayonet, then clay. The change house stands on 6 ordinary sand-cement blocks, about 20x20x40 cm in size. Summer the change house stood normally, and then, after the end of winter, it began. The blocks are "dancing", but the structure is skewed. The front door does not open well, and the inner one does not enter the opening at all.

For "treatment" the user used a standard "medicine" - jacking up a change house, adding sand under blocks, using wooden spacers, etc. There is zero sense from all this. Tormented for a couple of years Nicht79 decided to use a radical method - to redo the foundation. To do this, he poured concrete piles 1 meter deep as close to the walls as possible (since there is a neighbor's fence a meter away from the change house).

The next step is the manufacture of support beams on which the change house will stand. For this, boards of 5x10 cm were used, united in two pieces.

As a result, we got three "beams" with a section of 10x10 cm.

Then the shed was jacked up, in turn, the beams laid on the piles were pushed under it, and the building was lowered.

The arrangement and layout of the suburban area becomes relevant when there is no place for rest and storage of inventory on its territory. When funds are limited, but the problem of lack of temporary housing becomes acute, the best option is to build a trailer like a change house. We will analyze the advantages of such a structure and methods of its installation further.

Stylish project and design of a country house from a carriage

The house is an attribute of suburban life. It is possible to build it with your own hands, but it all depends on the source material. Consider all the advantages that cabins-like houses are endowed with:

Ease and speed of installation. Since the panels are made of ordinary lining, the weight of which is small, erecting a carriage with your own hands does not take a lot of time.
Disassembly and transportability. Such a house is usually installed on a dais or piles, which allows it to be loaded onto a trailer at any time and transported to the desired location.

Arrangement of a dacha from a trailer

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the inability to keep warm in the winter, as well as the unreliability of the structure itself with respect to break-ins and penetrations of ill-wishers.

The answer to this question interests many people who are fired up with the idea of building a trailer with their own hands. As for the cost, we can say that it will definitely be less than a wooden or metal analogue of a change house. And the fact how quickly such a house can be made directly depends on the professionalism of the builder.

However, even inexperienced novice builders get the job done in just two days.

Project and layout of a modular house for a summer residence

This is several times faster than making a house out of brick or sheet iron.

It is quite possible to build a project of a country house 4x6 meters without anyone's help. Let's consider this process in more detail, dividing it into stages.

Stage 1. Project creation. Before the start of construction, measurements are taken of the territory. The project includes the following elements:

House drawing, which helps to graphically present information about building elements and prevent all kinds of defects before construction begins;
Technical justification - it includes calculations of the amount of building materials, which is determined by simple mathematical calculations;
The diagram and plan will help you assess how harmoniously the temporary home fits into the surrounding area.

The project should describe as accurately and in detail as possible what the house will be, what elements it will consist of and what dimensions it will have.

Layout of a country house from a construction trailer

You can sketch the project yourself on paper, or you can use a special graphic editor that will do this work for you.

Stage 2. Clearing the area from debris. Particular attention should be paid to the ground. It needs to be leveled as much as possible with any building litter that is well tamped and compressed.

Stage 3. Purchase of building materials and components. In this case, it is recommended to take the material "in reserve", since during operation it may be necessary to replace individual parts of the house. You will need the following materials:

Bars;
Roofing material;
Roofing material (metal profile, corrugated board, lining, wood);
Insulation materials (foil and glass wool).

Wanting to save on building materials, they can be purchased at wholesalers, without intermediaries. Also in fashion are modular cabins, change houses, which are sold ready-made.

Project of a prefabricated multi-section change house

The customer only has to assemble them according to the instructions and use them for their intended purpose. The cost of such a structure will be 10 times higher than assembling it yourself.

Stage 4. Formation of the foundation. For temporary housing, there is no need to organize a full-fledged foundation.

It is quite enough to "raise" the country house by 30 cm from the soil level, hoisting it on monoblocks. This option is the simplest and most economical, it will allow you to move the car at the right time.

The perimeter of the structure is outlined and monoblocks are installed. For small dimensions, 5 monoblocks are suitable (4 in the corners and 1 in the middle of the car).

Stage 5. Organization of waterproofing with your own hands. Cover the foundation with roofing felt to prevent excess moisture from entering the inside of the trailer.

Warming and waterproofing of a summer caravan

Stage 6. Start of installation. Make a frame (base) between the monoblocks. For these purposes, wooden beams are suitable. In the same way, vertical supports are erected, to which the base of the wall will be attached. When the bases are ready, mount the roof, making it a little shallow. Roofing materials are attached at the very last moment.

Stage 7. Wall cladding. Using a screwdriver, the panels are screwed to the vertical joists. From the inside, the wall is insulated with a layer of foam or mineral wool.

Stage 8. Arrangement of windows, doors and roof. The final stage of building a house with your own hands involves the installation of windows and doors, as well as overlapping and waterproofing the roof. For the latter, it is best to use suitable roofing materials such as shingles, bitumen or ordinary slate. Before laying out the outer layer, cover the roof surface with polyethylene.
If there is a porch in the plan, then they are engaged in arranging it in the first place.

When you already have a trailer at your personal disposal, it will not be difficult to put it in order and improve it. With the help of the lining, its walls are sheathed and insulated, and the interior decoration turns the carriage into a real dwelling of a summer resident. You should not save on roofing materials, since the duration of operation of the entire structure will depend on their quality.In the case when seasonal accommodation in the carriage is meant, you need to take care of the drains. For these purposes, you can dig a sump, where all the sewage will drain, and during the cold season, pump them out or clean the pit with special chemicals.An example of arranging a bathroom in a trailerIf the carriage is needed for a short-term rest, and the site already has an outdoor shower and toilet, the need for sewage disappears by itself.When building a trailer with your own hands, it is important to take care of the ventilation ducts. There should be at least two of them, despite the number and presence of windows. Ventilation is introduced into the project and created during the construction phase.

We start building a house. Again, using a winch with a pulley block and a jack, roll the house into its place above the basement. In the corners and in the middle part, we install supports made of concrete blocks. In the house, we install logs for the floor and fasten them to the wall of the house with nails. Then I laid the floor. I made a hole in the basement, put linoleum on top of the floor. He trimmed the iron walls of the house with a furniture board (from disassembling old furniture), attaching it with self-tapping screws. The ceiling was covered with plywood along the contour of the carriage - a vaulted ceiling was obtained. I put electricity into the house, installed a panel with a meter (I made the wiring open).

When I cut off part of the carriage, 4 windows remained in the house (two on each side). I sewed up one window (overlooking the road) with a piece of iron, and in the other three I fixed the window frames and installed the platbands. Installed glasses directly in the boxes.

The end walls of the house were cut. I fixed the logs (0 15 cm), sheathed it with a board on the outside, and on top with sheets of iron. Inside, the end walls, as well as the side ones, were sheathed with furniture board.In the front wall I installed a metal entrance door, on the outside I fixed bars on the windows - all this from uninvited guests.

It's time for outdoor work. Since the roof of the carriage is vaulted, it was necessary to turn it into a real, sloping one. I made such a contour out of logs: I knocked down the logs and racks with long nails. I raised this contour to the roof, drilled a hole from the inside and secured the contour with nails. I fixed the rafters to the contour. The ends of the rafters are held on the edge of the carriage by their weight, and on the rafters I laid a sheathing board, which I covered with roofing felt and then with slate (photo 6).

I sewed the gables with boards from the back wall and made doors - the entrance to the attic. In front of the house, I built a porch with a canopy for the entire width of the house, and fenced it off with a railing. On the side of the house I made a canopy (photo 7), the walls of which I sheathed with a furniture board, and I made two windows. I installed a table, chairs, benches under the canopy - it turned out to be an excellent place for gathering and relaxing in the shade during the hot season (photo 8).

First there was the word: "We need a bath." And only then came the "miracles". Since our Yelets is an ancient city, old houses are sometimes demolished in it. And then one day they began to demolish a two-story house nearby.

I talked sincerely with the workers who were dismantling the house, and they carefully removed the slate, sheathing boards and logs from the rafters from the roof. The rest was taken apart without my participation ...

A site was selected for construction. I cleared the place, put four car tires from passenger cars in the corners, covered it with gravel, and filled it with mortar. It turned out corner pedestals, which I leveled. The logs that I got were 3 m long, from which I danced.

I laid two crowns, after 1 m I laid the logs under the floor. In the corners and where the logs lay, I drilled 16 mm holes and installed pins made of reinforcement 40 cm long. I threw boards of a temporary floor onto the platform logs and set them on a level, not forgetting to make a slight slope for water drainage. I drilled Ø 16 mm holes in the logs-racks from the ends and installed the racks on the pins. Racks are vertically fixed with braces. I cut the racks by level at a height of 2 m. On top of the racks I laid long logs (3 m), connecting them to the rack with pins. Then he laid the cross beams: after 1 m - 4 pcs. The result is a box - a bath frame. Sheathed it with boards: in the case

planks from dismantling the old house and industrial pallets went. By the way, pallets have a board with a length of 1 to 1.2 m, and when disassembling them, we get a lot of nails. Straighten - and go! And there are a lot of pallets, builders bring materials to them, and then throw them away. Collect, don't be lazy!

Sheathed the bathhouse outside. I chose a place to enter and put up a front door. I installed the rafters on top, spread the sheathing board and covered it with slate. I painted the house (photo 9).

Moving on to the inner work. The wall was sheathed with roofing material - a construction stapler helped a lot here. Roofing material sheathed everything that could come into contact with the clay being filled up in the space between the outer and inner walls.

On the inside of the racks, I fixed a metal bath foil. I sewed up 2/3 in height with boards from pallets. The cavity that had formed between the boards was covered with clay by ramming. The inner wall was built up gradually, rising to the ceiling. In the last cavity, a building insulation was laid and compacted.

The ceiling was done in the same way. First, I stapled foil to the beams with a stapler and sewed up the ceiling with a board from the pallets. In the attic, I covered the floor with roofing felt to prevent wood from contact with clay. The entire ceiling is covered with a thick layer of clay.

In stores, a sauna stove costs 10-15 thousand rubles. I got it cheaper. While I was building my bathhouse, on the site of a destroyed house

(where I collected building materials) built a large home-office and brought communications. The builders had “extra” 1.2 m of pipe Ø 320 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm. I cut this piece in half - 60 cm each. I cut out the side part of the pipes, welded it and got the furnace body.

In the bath, I made a concrete pedestal and installed the stove body, deepening it 10 cm into the concrete.In the front part I cut out two windows: the lower one for the ash chamber, the upper one for the firebox. Inside, in the lower part, I laid out an ash chamber made of bricks and inserted a tray for receiving ash. Installed a factory-made grate. On top of the combustion chamber I installed an overlap - a vault. The material for the furnace door and the ceiling of the vault was taken from the sidewalls cut from the pipes (photo 10.11).

For hot water, I took an old tank from a washing machine, made of stainless steel. The tank is round. I cut out the side, and this piece was turned over and welded, the tank turned out to be crescent-shaped (Fig. 3). With the concave part, he pressed the tank to the stove and secured it with a removable clamp, and closed it with a lid on top. When cleaning and cleaning the bath, the tank can be easily removed. If the company is large, you can install an additional bucket of water on the stove.

We placed a metal basket on top of the stove and poured 20 kg of granite (photo 12, 13). The chimney was installed closer to the front of the oven. The flame strikes the back of the oven, heats the water and rises upward, heating the stones in the basket, and then goes into the chimney. I cut out a gap in the pipe, inserted a damper, cut out a window in the stove - through this window I clean the stove from ash and soot in the pipe. The window is closed from above with a lid and is tightly pressed by a basket with stones.

For thermal insulation between the stove and the side wall, I laid the wall in half a brick, fixed the foil between the wooden wall and the bricks. The front wall was lined with bricks, framing the stove up to the ceiling. At a construction site, I found discarded broken tiles and laid them over the brickwork. I installed the door to the washroom and insulated it. I put construction insulation in the partition.

The dressing room, 1 m wide, was sheathed with a furniture board from the inside. I installed a folding curtain in the washing compartment, it rises and is attached to the rear wall. a 30 liter tank for cold water was fixed in the dressing room, and the hose led to the washroom.

Two years of operation showed that my project was successful. In the summertime, a couple of armfuls of firewood are spent on the heating of a bathhouse. Hot water does not boil, but there is enough steam. You can additionally keep the fire in the stove.

Another use of the bath: by removing the basket of stones from the stove and placing the buckets, you can quickly heat the water to a boil. We pour hot water over the bushes.

In years of good harvest we use the bathhouse as a dryer for apples and other fruits. To do this, I welded an iron shelf and installed it on the stove. I insert trays made of metal mesh into the grooves of the shelf. I put apples cut into slices on the trays and put shelves on the tier. I put a cover made of a thin sheet of metal on top of the deck: the process of making dried fruits goes better with it.

But it's not for nothing that they say that everything comes with experience. In the first tests, I raised the temperature too much - my apples caught fire and burned. It's good that the bathhouse is hermetically sealed, and my bathhouse did not burn down, only the walls were smoked. With this I "checked" the quality of my bath. Well, it keeps steam well ...

Since I was building a bathhouse from improvised used materials, it was inexpensive, a little more than 20 thousand rubles. Our pensions are small.

A person always feels more comfortable when he is within his native walls. So in the country - when there is no fence between neighbors, it is somehow uncomfortable. And not all neighbors are sociable.

In my case, the fence (photos 14, 15) was surprisingly simple to create. Near the garages, someone threw away the sheath from the electrical cables. In rural areas, on abandoned areas, a weed very quickly grew - Canadian maple, a shrub with a high trunk. It goes well on various props for tomatoes, tall beans, peas, etc. I made a wattle out of it. I cut the stakes out of thick maple, pulled a double bundle of cable in three tiers. Then I inserted the sticks, and it turned out to be a light openwork fence. On top of the sticks I put plastic bottles with a cut off bottom - it seems that birds are scared away by tapping in the wind. If the driven stake decays, we drive in another one from the side and tie them together. In the lower part I fixed pieces of slate. Now the tra-va-weed does not go to the neighbor.

This is how you can make something useful from scrap materials.

Video (click to play).

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