DIY bathroom renovation with shower

In detail: DIY repair in a bathroom with a shower from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Small apartments, in which there is not enough space to install everything you need, are far from uncommon in modern cities. So a shower without a shower stall in such apartments is also not uncommon.

But in order to swim in such conditions it was comfortable, you need to equip the bathroom space, taking into account all the rules and decorate it beautifully.

Despite the popularity of this type of shower, many people still find them strange and incomprehensible. Therefore, before talking about the process of installing and decorating such a structure, you need to understand its features, and also determine all the possible pros and cons.

A shower without a massive shower stall has many advantages.

However, this design also has disadvantages.

Firstly, if you do something wrong, there may be a risk of flooding your neighbors from below. So you always need to seek advice from professionals, or even trust the work of the masters, not relying on the fact that you will be able to do everything well, without having any skills.
Secondly, after taking a shower, the room may smell unpleasant. This is due to the incorrect installation of the shower floor. Or rather, for the reason that it is not raised up and a water seal is not installed under the base.
And, finally, many people are simply not used to taking a shower in a bathroom without a full-fledged shower cubicle. But this cannot be called a significant disadvantage, since there is always an opportunity to buy a bright curtain that will replace the usual partitions.
But in the event that a large family lives in the apartment, and the bathroom is combined with a toilet, the installation of such a shower is unlikely to be a reasonable solution. However, this option is more suitable for modern studios and bachelor apartments.

Video (click to play).

A shower without a shower stall is a very simple design that is not complemented by either walls or partitions. It is very simple to equip a bathroom in this way.

The first step in the bathroom is to make a good drain, where all the water will go. There are two types of drain that you can choose for such a shower: linear or point. The line drain is located on the floor, usually closer to the wall or to the corner.

The design is very compact and suitable for small rooms. If necessary, the drain can be integrated with a siphon to further save space. The spot option is located in the middle of the shower room.

If you make a mistake at this stage, then the water will not go away, and the bath may well be flooded.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the options for finishing the floor in the bathroom. This is also important, since not all materials can withstand such conditions, that is, high humidity and frequent temperature changes. The best option is to finish the floor, and in some cases, the walls with ordinary tiles.

It is important to keep in mind that the bathroom flooring must be non-slippery. Therefore, it is preferable to choose tiles with a rough surface. In this case, the likelihood of a person slipping on a wet surface and falling is excluded.

In addition, tiles, tiles and mosaics react normally to moisture, which means that similar materials can be used to decorate the wall in the place for taking a shower. This is convenient, since the room will remain neat and tidy for a long time.

A very important point is the design of the bathroom. There are many interesting ideas for creating an attractive interior in this room that will inspire both classic lovers and connoisseurs of modern art.

The first step is to decide where the shower will be located. The best option is, of course, an angle. It is there that he does not take up extra space. Although, as a rule, it all depends on the features of the bathroom arrangement, and in some cases, free space remains only in the center of the room.

Then it is worth deciding how the shower area will be highlighted. As a rule, a space with a shower is highlighted with either color or other finishing material. Most often, this is either a tile or a mosaic, since they respond well to water and do not deteriorate under its influence. There are many interesting finishing options, including ready-made mosaic panels or full-fledged paintings that are laid out on the wall or floor using tiles.

Combinations of contrasting colors and dark inserts on a light background look original. In some cases, the space allotted for the shower is trimmed with some kind of patterns, which looks very good against a plain background. Patterns can be abstract, geometric or floral.

If you do not want to highlight the shower space, then you can limit yourself to using a transparent curtain with a light pattern. It seems more airy and does not stand out at all against a colored background. Such a detail certainly does not violate the integrity of the interior.

The modern decoration of the room from the backlight looks interesting. It can be monochromatic or colored, reminiscent of a garland. For this, waterproof lighting options are used, for example, high-quality LED strips.

If the shower room is combined with a toilet, then you need to make sure that there is still at least some personal space. To do this, you need to create a partition using a curtain made of any suitable material. The curtain can also be part of the interior, if you choose it correctly.

In general, there are many interesting ideas for decorating even the smallest shower room in a house or apartment. You can verify this later by looking at real examples of finished rooms.

Water procedures take an important place in life. For their implementation, a shower cabin is equipped in the bathroom with your own hands. It can be installed both in an apartment and in a private house. Sometimes it is even installed in a bathhouse. It's nice to do this work yourself and then be proud of it.

You can make a shower cabin with your own hands. This requires material, tools and time. This device saves space in the bathroom and gives the room a completely new look. The cab is available with or without a pallet. In a room with a small width, a device with a glass door without a pallet is quite suitable.

It looks quite aesthetically pleasing, but it can be difficult to assemble it. The fact is that you need to drain the used water into the sewer. This requires pipes located below the drain hole. This is not always possible in modern apartments. Then you have to install the pallet.

On the floor, waterproofing is required to ensure high-quality protection of the floor from moisture.
Wooden walls after treatment with a waterproofing compound should be leveled with waterproof plasterboard. It differs from the usual facing in green.
Plastic pipes are laid through which the used liquid will go into the sewage system.
From above, everything is covered with tiles. It is laid with a slight slope towards the drain hole. If possible, these works are carried out inside the floor or directly at the base of the pallet. After equipping the drain, you can assemble a shower stall with your own hands.

The pallet can be purchased ready-made in the store. To install it, you do not need special knowledge and skills. The only difficulty that may arise during installation is the construction of the podium. The easiest way to make it is from brick. After installing the pallet, the joint is equipped with a special border. This industrial-made pallet has its own advantages:

its installation is easy and quick;
it is possible to adjust the height using a special design of the legs;
finishing border is included in the delivery set;
it can be mounted directly on a wooden base treated with waterproofing agents.

Consumer reviews of the bathtub with shower are very good. But the cab should be chosen carefully. It is necessary to check the fastening of the walls and doors, the coincidence of the sockets with the sewer pipes in the house. You can buy not the whole cabin, but only its individual parts. Modern manufacturers provide this opportunity and offer a choice of various designs from:

Some tools are needed to install the equipment:

drill or hammer drill;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
screws, spatulas;
hammer, pliers;
trowel, tile cutter;
container for the mixture, level,
plumb line, tape measure, pencil.

For the installation of the cabin, you will also need some materials:

high quality cement;
sand, brick;
taps, mixer;
shower head;
plumbing gaskets;
pipes, couplings.

The sections are usually attached to the base so that they can be easily closed and opened. By installing them with your own hands, you can be completely confident in the quality of the work.

Installing a shower cabin with your own hands in a bathroom with a small area is a rather expensive pleasure. But to do this with the purchase of only some parts will be much cheaper, and they can serve for a much longer period. A common material for equipping a shower area is ceramic tiles. This material is not afraid of water, it is strong and reliable enough, its service life is measured in decades.

It's not even worth talking about the hygiene of this material. For the shower cabin, the walls of the bathroom are tiled with ceramics along with the floor. If there is a pallet, then it is also tiled. The lined walls will be the walls of the cabin. All that remains is to make a door or other partition.

Work should begin with waterproofing the floor throughout the bathroom. To do this, you need to clean the surfaces from old coatings to the concrete itself. Bituminous mastic or other modern material is applied to the concrete base. Any material must be applied at least 3 layers. The joints between the walls and the floor should be additionally glued with non-woven tape. The waterproofing layer is covered with a cement-based screed. The screed can be additionally reinforced with a metal mesh.

Next, you need to properly lay the sewer pipes so that the used water enters the sewer system without obstacles. The joint between the drain and the pipe must be insulated with an airtight gasket. It is better to place this place against the wall opposite the entrance. The walls of the cab can be folded from glass blocks or sheet durable glass. The homemade shower stall is ready. You can try it.

In the manufacture of the podium, bricks, aerated concrete and other fillers are used. On top of them, another layer of concrete screed is laid with a slope towards the drain.

There is a bathtub in almost every apartment and in some private houses. But the bath conditions do not always suit the residents. I would like to have my own full-fledged shower, made with my own hands. Modern materials make it possible to cope with this task. You can assemble a shower stall from glass blocks and sheet glass, plastic and polycarbonate.

The color of materials can be very different. You can buy a complete set in the store for your own money and assemble it, you can buy only part of the set, and do the rest with your own hands. Such a cabin will cost much less. The main thing is to make good waterproofing of the floor and walls.

The cockpit should also have lighting. To do this, stretch the wires away from the water pipes. It is better to use special bulbs for shower cabins. They are made with steam and moisture protection properties.You can also install a radio that is sold in specialized stores. The cabin is also equipped with small items such as a towel holder, shelves for soap and detergents, and a mirror.

Installing a shower in a small bathroom is perhaps the best option if there is a lack of space in this room. However, this pleasure is not the cheapest, so many owners decide to make a shower cabin with their own hands. Of course, you will still have to purchase some of the factory-made spare parts, but the costs for them will not go in any comparison with the cost of the whole product. And although, home-made shower cabins are not mobile, unlike the industrial version, they will last much longer. The most common material used to equip homemade shower cabins is ceramic tiles, which, in fact, is quite reasonable. Firstly, it is the most suitable material for rooms with high humidity. Secondly, ceramics are characterized by fairly good strength, reliability and durability.

Another important factor in favor of tiles is their hygiene. There are two options to make a shower cabin with your own hands from tiles (photos of step-by-step production will be presented below):

You can make a shower stall from tiles with your own hands without a pallet. Basically, it is a simple wall and floor tiling with ceramic tiles. This method is distinguished by simpler repair and finishing work, but requires a carefully thought-out installation of communications.
In addition, there is a more complex option, when the shower tray is also made by hand, and subsequently tiled. But the supply of communications in this case is much easier, they are perfectly hidden under the bottom of the pallet.

In both cases, bathroom partitions are used as one, two or three walls of the cubicle. By the way, it is for this reason that homemade showers are usually mounted in a corner or niche. The rest of the shower stall will have to be purchased or made independently from acrylic or glass.

Before starting the installation of a shower cabin with your own hands without a pallet, first of all, you need to take care of the high-quality protection of the floor and walls of the bathroom from leaks at the place where the shower is installed. Therefore, it is first required to perform additional waterproofing, while it is recommended to carry out it over the entire area of the bathroom:

To do this, the floor and walls involved in the installation of the cabin must be cleaned up to the concrete floor, on top of which waterproofing is performed. For this purpose, bituminous mastic can be applied, but the best option would be to use modern waterproofing materials, laid in 2-3 layers. The joints of the floor and wall slabs (especially the corners) are pre-glued with non-woven tape, and the outlet of the sewer pipe is insulated with a special gasket.
At the next stage, the bathroom floor is screed, while a cement-based mixture is necessarily used, since gypsum is afraid of moisture. For strength, the screed can be reinforced with a metal mesh.

Lay communications. Here you will have to puzzle over how to lay the pipes in such a way that subsequently the water does not stagnate in the drain, but flows freely into the sewer. Otherwise, unpleasant odors are provided to you.
Now you can install a drain or, as plumbers call it, a drain, which is also hermetically sealed with a gasket at the junction with the pipe. As a rule, the drain hole is located closer to the wall opposite to the entrance. Here it will not interfere with taking a shower, and communication will be much easier to bring.

If required, lay a layer of the main filler - expanded polystyrene or aerated concrete and fill in the finishing screed. At the same time, a slight slope towards the drain is observed at the rate of 0.7-1 cm per linear meter of the floor.

There is another option for making a shower cabin without a pallet. In order to simplify the laying of communications, the floor is specially raised above the base:

For this, a wooden formwork is prepared at the place of installation of the shower stall.

Prepare the floor (perform waterproofing and pre-screed).
A layer of brick is laid out on the site and a ladder is installed.

The formwork is poured with a screed in compliance with the technology.

Remove the formwork and check the horizontal surface of the site along the edges.

The finished base is subsequently tiled.

Making a shower cabin with your own hands with a pallet is more laborious in terms of construction work, but communications are much easier to install. The height of the pallet allows you to easily bring the sewer pipe to the drain hole.

In this case, waterproofing can be done along the floor or inside the pallet, and for reliability it is a good idea to do both here and there. This is guaranteed to protect the floor from leaking, which means that you will not have problems with neighbors:

Floor waterproofing, utility wiring and cement screed are carried out in the same way as in the case of a shower cabin with a pallet. At the same time, when setting the ladder, be sure to check that its top coincides with the level of the bottom of the future pallet.

Then you need to organize the pallet. For this, as a rule, ordinary brick is used, from which a parapet with a height of 10-15 cm is laid out. After laying the material, it is imperative to check the level of the pallet, otherwise the subsequent installation of the doors will be quite problematic.

Now the pallet itself is waterproofed. They use all the same bituminous mastic or modern waterproofers. A special gasket is also installed on the ladder.

Aerated concrete or any other filler is laid on top of the insulation and poured with another layer of screed, taking into account the slope towards the drain hole.

If an additional side partition is planned during the manufacture of a shower stall, the low walls can be made of the same brick. For floor-to-ceiling structures, it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall, mounted on a metal profile frame. Subsequently, the partition, like the walls, is faced with ceramic tiles. This approach will reduce the load on the floor, and installation work will be easier.

The surface finishing of the shower stall is carried out according to the general technology of laying ceramic tiles. As a rule, for this purpose, tiles of medium and small sizes are used; excellent results are obtained when tiling with mosaics.

For the floor, it is better to use tiles with a rough anti-slip coating.

It is better to hide the pipes for the water supply behind the cladding. For this, grooves are preliminarily made in the wall, into which communications are laid, a mixer is installed and the surface is finished.

You will also need to conduct electrical wiring for lighting and ventilation. It is better to lay it at some distance from the pipes and observe all fire safety measures. Therefore, whenever possible, the wiring is mounted on the outside of the shower room and must be protected by an RCD.

If it is planned to install additional equipment, for example, a "Charcot" shower or hydromassage, it is better to seek help from specialists. The installation of the instruments necessary for correct operation requires appropriate experience and knowledge.

After installation of the equipment, all surfaces are tiled with ceramic tiles using conventional technology. In this case, it is better to use a special sanitary sealant as a grout for joints. It will not only protect against leakage, but also prevent the appearance of mold and mildew at the joints of the tiles.

There are several door design options for homemade showers. The most commonly used material is cast acrylic, which is quite easy to process. Or you can make glass shower doors:

You will need cut-to-size glass (can be ordered from the workshop) and the corresponding fittings: awnings, handles, etc. All of this is sold in specialized stores. If part of the cab walls is also made of glass, mounting angles are additionally purchased.

The only drawback of this choice is the high fragility of the glass and a high probability of injury if it is damaged. You can partially protect yourself by sticking a special film on the surface, in which case the glass will not crumble into small fragments upon impact. Or use another option, make the shower doors from tempered glass. But then you don't have to think about saving.

Cast acrylic (in the past it was called plexiglass) is more shock-resistant, moreover, its scope of application is somewhat wider. With a certain skill, even curved sliding doors for a shower stall can be made from acrylic. This will require a hair dryer, a template and a little experience with similar materials. You will also need guides on which the door leaves, rollers and metal profiles for the racks are subsequently attached. All this is assembled into a single structure, and as a result you get a practical and inexpensive shower stall.

If working with acrylic and glass seems too difficult for you, you can purchase the required components from the factory model manufacturers. Even if it comes out a little more expensive, the installation will go much faster, and the booth will practically not differ from the industrial version.

Shower cubicle made of glass blocks: original and attractive

Modern materials and technologies today make it possible to produce the most original interior items. So, relatively recently, a new material has appeared that allows you to revive the design of the bathroom: a glass-block shower can become a real highlight of this room.

Thanks to the huge variety of colors and design ideas, choosing the right material for your bathroom is easy. Shock-resistant and durable blocks, devoid of the main disadvantages of glass, are available with a corrugated and smooth surface, matte and transparent, and even with an internal filling. The free space inside this peculiar brick can be filled with various decorative elements: shells, corals, algae and other objects (usually marine themed).

Another advantage of this material is the ability to manufacture both flat and curved partitions with almost any radius of curvature. At the same time, the installation of the wall is simple and does not differ much from laying ordinary bricks. As a bonding mortar, you can use a cement mixture or adhesive for ceramic tiles.

If the installed partition has an area of more than 15 sq.m. a special reinforcing system is used for installation. At the same time, remember that such walls are non-supporting structures, which means that when hanging strips or cabinets on them, be careful.

In general, the glass block shower cabin is extremely practical and durable. It is easy to maintain such a structure, since dirt and mold do not linger on the glass, and what remains can be easily removed with a non-abrasive detergent. And such a shower room will serve for many years without losing its originality and attractive appearance.

Small bathrooms often have showers. They are popular in baths and dachas, they are put instead of a bathroom in apartments and houses, they are made in addition - who how. But not everyone likes plastic cabins: they are too flimsy. A do-it-yourself shower cabin, although it takes more time, is more reliable.

Seen from the outside, there is not much difference.

If you want to make your own shower stall in order to save money, do the math first.You will need good waterproofing, and most likely for swimming pools. You just need a good drain, for which you will need to raise the floor, and this is a decent amount of solution with plasticizers that increase water repellents. For the finish, you will need good floor tiles with a non-slip surface or mosaic, and glue (water-repellent). It would also be nice to make floor heating - it is very unpleasant to stand on a concrete floor in winter. You will also need doors, although you can do with a curtain. The amount is already considerable. There are cheaper options - simple shower enclosures.

If you also need to build walls, even from drywall, then there will be no savings for sure. Many people note that the do-it-yourself shower stall is not cheaper, and this is at least. But what's good - you can make it exactly the way you like it, in the size you want (or as it turns out). The independent device of a shower stall is inexpensive only if there is a ready-made nook, which is simply fenced off with a door or curtain, but the costs of installing a drain and a floor do not go anywhere.

Despite the outwardly almost identical appearance - the walls and floor are tiled, some kind of doors, homemade shower stalls have many options for the internal arrangement. There really is plenty to choose from.

The easiest and most reliable option to make a waterproof floor in the shower stall is to put a ready-made pallet. It can be installed on bricks or made of foam blocks. By "finished pallet" we mean two types: acrylic and enamelled. Acrylic is lightweight and non-slip, but turns yellow over time. Enamelled - not bad in operation, but slippery when wet: you have to put a rubber mat. The plus of acrylic is that it feels less cold.

If both options do not fit, they make a pallet of brick or monolithic concrete, which is then tiled with tiles - ordinary for the floor, or mosaics. This is a major decision, but difficult to implement. If you decide to make a shower tray from tiles, and you live in an apartment building, you will need a very good multi-layer waterproofing so that there are no problems with neighbors from below and from the side. This does not mean that in a private house, a do-it-yourself shower stall is made without waterproofing. Simply if you "screw up" you will suffer yourself.

Half finished brick shower tray

There is one more option - an intermediate one. A "trough" of suitable dimensions is cooked from metal; it is well treated with anti-corrosion materials. They are installed on a podium made of bricks or foam blocks (a drain is also needed), if necessary, they are covered with bricks from the outside, forming a side or a step. A mosaic is glued from the inside.

Of these options is usually chosen. There is also a device without a visible pallet at all, and the drain can be made into the wall, but then in the entire bathroom it is necessary to raise the floor level and form a slope towards the drain.

Now about the dimensions of shower cabins and pallets in particular:

80 * 80 cm is very small, it is difficult to bend down even for a slender person, you constantly touch the walls;
90 * 90 cm - somewhat better, but still cramped;
100 cm and more - you already feel normal, you can sit down without any problems.

If you want comfort, make at least a meter gap from wall to wall, but if the dimensions are very limited, try to still leave at least 90 cm.

Next, you need to choose how the drain will be arranged. There are two devices: a siphon and a ladder. The ladder is more expensive, but it is usually shorter and more reliable. Its safety margin will last for a decent period and it can be poured into concrete, which is usually done.

The siphon is cheaper, but when installing a pallet, you will have to provide for the possibility of replacing it. Just monolithing it is not a good idea, since if a question arises with a repair, you will have to work with a hammer drill to get to it. You present the results.Therefore, when using a siphon, leave a revision passage, which is closed by a hatch or a small door.

DIY shower cabin: how to make an inspection hatch

In any case, the drain must be serviceable. This means that the upper part - the mesh - can be removed and the pipe can be cleaned with a cable. And so that this is possible, lay the drain pipe so that the maximum angle of rotation to the sewer is 45 °, but it is better not to do more than 30 °.

Now about the slopes. So that the water in the pipes does not stagnate, the pipe from the ladder to the sewer is laid with a slope of at least 4-5%. This means that for one meter of length, the height difference is 4-5 cm. The floor should have approximately the same bevel: water should drain to the drain.

It will be about exactly how to make the floor in the shower stall on your own, with your own hands. The height of the floor inside the shower stall is far from arbitrary. It depends on how the drain is made in the shower, how high the drain or siphon is. And he, in turn, is set with such a condition to form the necessary bias. That is, the lower you enter the sewer, the less you will need to lift up the ladder and the floor. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with shower

Floor drain installation diagram

That is, before starting work, you will have to put a ladder. A cup - for sure. But wrap it well and close it, plug the drain with a crumpled newspaper or rag so that nothing gets inside during work. Keep a decorative grid close at hand so you can try it on in time.

How to install one of the ladder options - linear - see the video. The model may be different, but the general principles will remain the same.

When installing a brick shower tray, the floor should at least be relatively flat. If there are already very large differences, level them in advance (make a rough screed). They expose the drain device, connect it to the sewer, and then step by step like this:

Base waterproofing. In the simplest version, it is bituminous, but many are afraid of the smell. Can be coated with liquid glass, cement-based hydrophobic impregnation, pool waterproofing. What you find or what you like more in terms of properties, then use it. The best option, of course, is a composition for swimming pools. These compositions are designed for high water pressure, therefore they are reliable. Slightly worse in such conditions - impregnation based on concrete, but moisture absorption is reduced significantly. They are often smeared two or three times: to be sure that nothing has been missed.

Three times smeared with bituminous mastic

After concreting, after a couple of days, it was coated with cement-based waterproofing (concrete contact)

If you want to create a heated floor in your shower, add two more layers. A layer of mortar is placed on the brick, leveling the base. After the solution has set, a heating cable or cable mats (cable on a grid) are placed on it. From above it is poured with a special compound for a warm floor. The layer thickness above the cable is at least 3 cm. And do not forget to form a slope towards the drain. After setting, you can lay the tiles (you can turn on the heating only a month after pouring, otherwise cracks will go).

To make the heating work more efficiently, you can put insulation on the layer of mortar on the bricks, in particular, extruded polystyrene foam. Its thickness is at least 3 cm, it can be up to 5 cm. A metal mesh is placed on it with a step of 10-15 cm, on top of a heating cable or cable mat, and only then - a solution.

When making a concrete shower tray with your own hands, you need to assemble the formwork. It is best to use a thick board (at least 25 mm thick) or trim OSB, fiberboard (thickness from 16 mm).

If the shower stall has a concrete floor covered with tiles or mosaics, it is advisable to insulate it. It is your choice to make heating or not, but it should be 100% for insulation, otherwise you will have to pour hot water “idle” for a long time in order to warm the floor at least a little or throw a grate knocked out of wood. For a bath, lattices are an acceptable option, but hardly for permanent use in a house or apartment.

So, the sequence of layers is as follows:

Base waterproofing. All the same: we coat well.
We glue the perimeter with waterproof tape.
If there is heating, we also put a damper tape or a layer of insulation along the walls around the perimeter.
We lay expanded polystyrene with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3, thickness - from 5 cm. We glue the joints with reinforced tape.
Metal mesh with a mesh of 10 cm.
We expose beacons, forming a drain.

Cut plywood strips can be used as beacons. They are cut taking into account the formation of the runoff

After 24 hours, beacons are removed, traces are rubbed with a solution. A little later, after setting and gaining strength, they are covered with a coating waterproofing, and only then they start laying the tiles.

If you are going to build such a shower cabin with your own hands in an apartment building, it is better to add another layer of waterproofing: break the screed layer into two parts. Schematically, then everything looks like in the photo below.

The screed is divided into two layers, and between them waterproofing

Regardless of whether you are making a pallet from bricks or from concrete, you need to know at what height to pour the screed. Its height should be slightly lower than the drain grid - siphon or ladder. It is more convenient to beat off its position on the walls using a laser level. If it is not there, you will have to transfer the marks with watermarks. To make it a little clearer, watch the video. Shows how to set the screed levels on the walls and how to make a rough screed.

If the cabin is rectangular, the solution is more or less simple: the rectangle can also be cut out of glass in the workshop. There are many glass door hinges, you can choose a more convenient one for your occasion. Just order doors with awnings: you will have to drill holes for them, and it is best to try them on.It is advisable to take tempered glass. If it breaks, then into small fragments with blunt edges, which are difficult to injure. But, most likely, the fragments will remain hanging on the tape. The downside of this glass is that it is expensive. To save money, you can order the usual thick one - 5-6 mm, and at home you can glue it on both sides with a polymer translucent film. You will have to tinker, but the effect will be almost the same as with tempered glass: the fragments will be on the film.One point: the glass is washed before applying the film, then degreased. The film is glued onto wet glass. This makes it easier to expel air bubbles, and you can also move the film for a while.If you do not want glass doors, but you need translucent doors, you can make them from polycarbonate, but not honeycomb, but sheet. We'll have to find a suitable furniture profile, make a frame out of it and put polycarbonate in the frame on a sealant. For reliability, you can attach through and through with screws and washers.Another option is to buy ready-made doors. There are also glass ones specially for cabins, and you can adapt plastic folding "accordion", as in the video.