Do-it-yourself gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle vacuum brake booster repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Guys. When the vacuum tank is overhauled, it can be very difficult to reassemble it. The elastic bands are new, the body does not heat up and does not turn to close the locks. Here's a simple solution.

We put a vacuum cleaner on the wheel. If with a partner you can put the spring right away. I collected one so I put the spring later. The rubber band under the fitting must be pulled out, but this method is harder.

Above is a block of wood above the bolts.

Jack on top and rest against the frame.

We lift by pressing the body.

They pressed the installer through the key, the body turned. If you are assembling one and could not put the spring right away, you can then push it in, but this is worse, but you can neatly.

we put on the elastic band of the fitting. The body was smeared with lithol to make it easy to turn. Good luck.

Post has been edited Steam locomotive: September 21, 2014 - 23:14

Respect for your patience and hard work. And we are lazy, we buy business ones. By the way, I also changed the pipki without a camera, so that the tire fitters did not pay for disassembly and assembly.

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countryNik 22 Sep 2014

we are not lazy))) we went through and not that (non-separable)

When disassembling, you do not need to knock anywhere. Spill it with a VDshkoy, put the vacuum cleaner on the spare wheel, and turn the bolts with a pry bar. I figured it out just with a bang. Before that I knocked with a hammer - the result was generally zero.

Post has been edited Steam locomotive: September 22, 2014 - 08:08

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countryNik 22 Sep 2014

Yes, he’s okay, he’s getting ready. just to make it easier to adapt to bungle for turning

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masiy 26 Jan 2015

He began to troit the internal combustion engine, poisoned VUT. I bought a repair kit and started playing the accordion. Disassembled, collected, new, old rubber bands, everything is useless, Troilus censorship is like a bastard. He spat, clamped the pedal rod in a vice, poured water into the joint of the halves of the bodies and pressed on the VUT body, and lo and behold, bubbles began to flow. On a practically new VUT (mileage somewhere around 5000 km), air leaks through the connection. A sledgehammer in hand with a spacer and from the heart and the suction stopped. As I am lucky for spare parts, the meal is almost 60-70% and everything is factory made. I tightened the spring with copper wire in one turn and twisted the ends. Wire 0.5 mm. After assembly, cut with scissors and pulled out with pliers.

Video (click to play).

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countriesNik 26 Jan 2015

ooo .. it's easier there. where there are adaptations for disassembly

anyone interested I can dig deeper ..

only if the VUT starts to freak out from the brakes. this is his oil seal. changes .. just do not forget to smear. otherwise it will be like yesterday

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masiy 26 Jan 2015

ooo .. it's easier there. where there are adaptations for disassembly

anyone interested I can dig deeper ..

only if the VUT starts to freak out from the brakes. this is his oil seal. changes .. just do not forget to smear. otherwise it will be like yesterday

30 years in auto repair, great experience. I don't take the Cossacks for repairs, than they thought, the Volga was also stuck in the engine there, since this is no longer a tractor and not yet a car, and I am not repairing ATT. There were cases, but these were carnations, compared to a gazelle, this is a nail through a gazelle vu and bent on both sides. This is about spare parts, they are like on foreign cars, and are made from children's feces.

Many people immediately sin on the vacuum brake booster.

Many owners of VAZ cars are thinking about repairing a vacuum brake booster. What are the symptoms of a malfunction of the vacuum brake booster, I will now tell you.

No, of course, the brakes do not completely disappear and after some time after pressing the pedal, the "brake" is still grasped. But at the same time, the brake pedal is kind of soft and takes at the very end.

When you press the brake pedal, the pedal gently goes down, it turns out that the vacuum brake booster is working. If the vacuum brake booster did not work, then the sensations when pressing the brake pedal would be like in the VAZ 2101.But such symptoms occur when the brake pipes are not tight.

How to check the vacuum brake booster

Vacuum brake booster it is very simple to check. You push the brake pedal all the way and start the engine. If the pedal moves smoothly with the engine running, the vacuum booster is in good order. Everything else is not his concern.

Today, almost all cars are equipped with vacuum brake boosters, so the topic is popular. Yes, and repairing a vacuum brake booster is not so difficult, you can repair the vacuum brake booster with your own hands. The main thing is to carefully study the device of the vacuum brake booster of a particular car model, because they may differ slightly. Therefore, for a start, I recommend that you study device of a vacuum booster of car brakes.

Checking the vacuum brake booster UAZ, GAZ, VAZ

The engine troit is one of the signs of a malfunction of the vacuum brake booster. Eliminate air leaks in the intake manifold that lead to a depletion of the combustible mixture.
Bleed the brake pedal, then start the engine, if the brake pedal fails while starting the engine, then vacuum booster works... If it remains motionless, it means that the vacuum booster should be repaired or replace the vacuum booster.
Inspect vacuum amplifier housing for leaks.
Adjust the brake booster occasionally.

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Prepare the necessary servo repair tools.

By design, the vacuum brake booster is in one block with the cylinder head. The body of the vacuum amplifier is divided into two parts: 1 - atmospheric, 2 - vacuum.

The vacuum section is connected to the intake manifold with a check valve. And the collector, in turn, acts as a source of discharge. For continuous operation of the vacuum brake booster on diesel engines, an electric vacuum pump is used.

The vacuum booster works only when the engine is running. This can be explained by the fact that when the engine is not running, the check valve separates the vacuum amplifier and the manifold.

The atmospheric chamber is connected to the vacuum chamber when the brake pedal is depressed. When you press the brake pedal, pressure is exerted on the tappet, which moves the valve. The diaphragm under the action of the piston rod leads to the injection of brake fluid to the working cylinders.

And the return spring serves to move the diaphragm to its original position. The operation of a vacuum amplifier can be described by the pressure difference in the vacuum and atmospheric chambers. The pressure difference causes the pusher, rod and piston to move.

Remember, the presence of brakes does not mean that your vacuum brake booster is working. Just when the vacuum booster malfunctions, it becomes more difficult to drive the vehicle. This makes it difficult for the driver to drive. The driver has to apply more effort to brake than usual.

The main malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster:

Wear and aging of rubber valves, rupture or damage to the diaphragm.
Breakage or damage to the hose, as a result of which the engine manifold is connected to the vacuum brake booster. Check the fastening of the clamps and the hose for cracks.

DIY vacuum brake booster repair

Study your vehicle manual, view and read vacuum brake booster circuit.
Disconnect the brake link located under the steering shaft.
Remove the brake master cylinder.
Inspect and determine the malfunction of the vacuum brake booster and replace the vacuum brake booster or carry out repair of the vacuum brake booster assembly.

If you are used to dealing with car breakdowns on your own, then it will not be superfluous to know how to repair a vacuum brake booster (VUT). It is nothing more than a mechanism that helps to reduce the force applied to the brake pedal. Even in old cars, it was constantly necessary to depress the pedal with all the force, since it was necessary to develop an effort of up to 80 kilograms. But since the time the amplifier appeared, this figure has dropped by half.

The VUT body is divided by a diaphragm into two parts, through which the stem passes. This rod is connected directly to the pedal itself and the other end creates pressure on the piston of the brake cylinder. The most important thing in our movement is road safety, which is why instructions on how to check the vacuum brake booster in a car before driving will be useful. And although its malfunctions will not lead to a breakdown of the entire system, the unexpected stubbornness of the brake pedal can scare you while driving, and the result of the accident will depend on your reaction.

Checking the vacuum brake booster is an integral part of the vehicle inspection process. True, it makes no sense to crawl under the bottom of the car every day, the operation of the VUT can be checked indirectly. What signs can tell you about the state of the amplifier, we will tell you a little below, and also offer repair options.

Image - DIY gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

How is it worth checking the VUT for serviceability without resorting to an inspection hole? This is done like this: when the engine is not working, you need to press the brake about 6 times. Then, while holding this pedal, start the engine. The pedal should move slightly forward, and if this does not happen, the first step is to check the tightness of the hose connections and the operation of the check valve.

If your vacuum brake booster hisses, then be sure to check a few places. The most common problem of VUT failure is the hose that connects it to the engine intake manifold. It is imperative to check for cracks and breaks, it is necessary to check whether the clamps are tightened. Also, the amplifier can fail due to internal parts such as a valve. Over time, this valve becomes hard due to the wear of the rubber, so that the elastic baffle can rupture.

You can simply purchase a vacuum brake booster repair kit and change the anthers, sometimes it saves you from hissing. But this is worth doing if you are sure that the amplifier itself is working.

Symptoms of a malfunction of the vacuum brake booster include such a case when the motor starts to run. Many car enthusiasts first go to buy spark plugs, tune valves, but the engine still does not work well. In such cases, it is worth doing a little check: close the amplifier hose so that it does not let air into the engine. If the engine starts working properly, then the problem is in the brakes.

Adjusting the vacuum brake booster consists in adjusting the pedal free travel, and in order to set it correctly, it is necessary to adjust the rod length. Adjustment of the vacuum brake booster rod should lead to a certain clearance, which determines the amount of force on the brake cylinder. The protrusion, or gap, is controlled with a special bolt, which should rise above the VUT plane by 7.1 mm. If this indicator is higher, then your pedal will have a greater stroke, if lower, the car will slow down arbitrarily all the time, as if you are driving on a handbrake.

To adjust the timing of the valves, vacuum and atmospheric, you need to work with the adjusting screw. This parameter affects the ability of the pedal to return to its original position. By tightening the screw, you will get a pedal that is completely reluctant to return to its original position, and if you do not pull it, you will get a pedal without the action of a vacuum amplifier, that is, you will need a remarkable force for braking. Image - DIY gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

First of all, you need to remove the upholstery and windshield trim in the engine compartment. The pipes connecting to the brake master cylinder should not be removed so that air does not enter the hydraulic system itself. Then it is worth unscrewing the brake cylinder from the amplifier with a key of 17. Remove it and gently tilt it forward so that the brake pipes do not bend. Remember to disconnect the hose from the amplifier fitting.

To remove the amplifier together with the brake pedal, unscrew the four bolts by 13 and pull it out, having previously disconnected the brake light wire. To disconnect the pedal and VUT together, first you need to pull out the finger that connects them and unscrew the two nuts that you will find in the bracket to the bracket. Now the VUT is free, and if you are well aware of its structure, you can try to disassemble and repair it yourself, otherwise it should be taken to the mechanics or replaced in the assembled state with a new element.

It is difficult to imagine the work of brakes without a vacuum brake booster. It is difficult to overestimate the work of this device, however, like all others, it is not “insured” against breakdown. Today I propose to talk about the main malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster and how to fix them.On the one hand, repairing a vacuum brake booster is not particularly difficult if you decide to repair this device yourself. The most important thing is to take into account all the design features of a particular car brand, the very principle of carrying out repairs is not particularly different.A little about the device of the vacuum brake booster.Structurally, the vacuum brake booster is one unit combined with the GTZ. For an advanced motorist, the device of this unit will not seem complicated. The body is divided into two parts: the vacuum part is located on the side of the brake master cylinder, the atmospheric part is on the side of the brake pedal.The vacuum chamber is connected to the intake manifold with a check valve, which is a source of vacuum. Most often, an electric vacuum pump is used in diesel engines in order to keep the vacuum booster in constant operation. In the event that the engine stops, the vacuum booster is disconnected from the manifold by means of a check valve, which is why the vacuum brake booster is very dependent on the operation of the motor and can only function with a working engine.After activating the brake pedal by means of the follower valve, the atmosphere chamber is connected to the vacuum chamber and the atmosphere. The brake pedal is connected to a pusher, due to which the follower valve moves. The diaphragm is connected to the GTZ rod from the side of the vacuum chamber, thanks to which the brake fluid is pumped by the piston to the working cylinders.The return spring returns the diaphragm to its original position after the end of braking. The amplifier design can also include an electromagnetic stem actuator. The ESP system uses an active brake booster and its main purpose is to prevent rollover.Possible malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster.First of all, attention should be focused on the ineffective operation of the braking system, that is, the deterioration in vehicle control (TC), the need to make more efforts in order to brake. The following faults are considered classic:1. Malfunctions inside the vacuum amplifier itself (rupture of the diaphragm or aging of the rubber of the valves). In this case, the valve will poison the air.2.Depressurization or complete breakage of the hose that connects the engine manifold with the vacuum brake booster. As a rule, such a malfunction is accompanied by a hiss of this device. Be sure to check the tightness of the clamps, as well as the hose for cracks and breaks.How to check the vacuum brake booster yourself? Image - DIY gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

1. If the motor starts to work unevenly (intermittently or troit), it is necessary to diagnose the serviceability of the vacuum amplifier. Often, depressurization is accompanied by air being sucked into the air intake manifold pipe, as a result, the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is dramatically depleted.

2. Alternatively, you can try to diagnose the malfunction in the following way: make 5-6 strokes of the brake pedal with the engine “muffled”. After that, in the middle of the stroke, fix the pedal, then start the motor. If the pedal fails during start-up, the vacuum amplifier can be considered working. If the pedal remains stationary, repair or complete replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required.

3. Carry out a visual inspection and look carefully to see if there are any smudges on the body of the vacuum amplifier.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster.

In order to make a repair or replacement, you need to have some skills and knowledge, it will not be superfluous to look into the manual for the repair and maintenance of your car. In addition, you will need tools, as a rule, a standard set is sufficient.

Below I give you a step-by-step instruction on the procedure for repairing a vacuum brake booster:

1. Read in detail the manual (manual) for the repair and operation of the car, determine the key nuances for yourself.

2. Disconnect the booster drive rod from the brake pedal, which is located under the steering shaft.

3. In the engine compartment, remove the GTZ.

4. Depending on the breakdown, repair or completely replace this device.

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A Gazelle car arrived for repairs, with a problem - the brakes were gone. The brake pedal became very tight, when pressed, the car even sometimes stalled. The first diagnostics showed that there is a problem with the vacuum brake booster, it needs to be replaced. When you press the brake pedal, a hiss is heard, which means that air is leaking, most likely the membrane of the vacuum cleaner is torn. To replace the vacuum booster, unscrew the stem from the brake pedal, then using a 13 key, unscrew the vacuum booster mounting nuts, disconnect the vacuum hose, turn off the brake fluid level sensor. When replacing, it is not necessary to drain the brake fluid and loosen the pipes. If you notice that you have a torn rubber gasket between the cab and the vacuum, then it is better to replace it.

Video replacement of the Gazelle vacuum brake booster:

[center]

For work, you better take an assistant, in some moments you will really need it.Progress does not stand still, so now it is difficult to imagine a braking system without a vacuum brake booster, which is a necessary element of the braking system. But the vacuum booster can sometimes have problems, so sometimes the vacuum brake booster needs to be replaced or repaired.Technologically independent replacement of a vacuum brake booster is not so difficult. It is only necessary to take into account all the design features of the car model, since in all models the principles of operation of the vacuum brake booster are the same.The vacuum brake booster and the brake master cylinder (GTZ) are combined into one unit. The circuit and device of the vacuum brake booster is not so complicated.The diaphragm divides the amplifier housing into two parts: on the side of the brake pedal - the atmospheric part, and on the side of the GTZ - the vacuum part.The vacuum chamber is connected to the intake manifold with a check valve. The collector is also a source of vacuum. If the engine is diesel, then, most likely, an electric vacuum pump will be used to ensure the operation of the vacuum amplifier.If the engine is stopped, the check valve activates the decoupling of the manifold and the vacuum booster. The vacuum brake booster only works when the engine is running. The same disconnection occurs if the vacuum brake booster is faulty.The atmospheric chamber with the help of a follower valve is connected to the vacuum chamber in the initial position of the valve, and it is connected to the atmosphere when the brake pedal is pressed.The pusher is connected to the brake pedal and is responsible for moving the follower valve. The diaphragm of the body is connected from the side of the vacuum chamber with the GTZ rod. The pusher pumps the brake fluid by means of a piston to the working cylinders.The return spring is needed so that the diaphragm moves to its original position until the time until braking ends. Sometimes an electromagnetic rod drive is built into the amplifier design.If the system is ESP, then it has an active brake booster. The purpose of such an amplifier is to prevent rollover.The principle of operation of a vacuum amplifier is based on the fact that different pressures are formed in the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. This pressure difference acts on the pusher, moves the GTZ piston rod.If the vacuum brake booster has faults, then first you need to understand that faults will not damage the brake system. The car will be difficult to drive, and when you press the brake pedal, you need to increase the effort.There are two traditional faults that require replacement or repair of the vacuum brake booster:

breakage or depressurization of the hose that connects the engine manifold and the vacuum brake booster. In this case, the hiss of the vacuum brake booster will be heard. The hose should be checked for breaks or cracks. Also check the tightening of the clamps;

there may be malfunctions inside the vacuum booster - the rubber of the valves may age or the diaphragm may burst.

Checking the vacuum brake booster is easy. If there are problems with the engine, then the diagnosis should be started by checking the vacuum booster. The consequence of depressurization is air leakage into the intake manifold, which leads to problems with the air-fuel mixture that enters the engine cylinder.There is another option for checking the vacuum amplifier. If the engine does not work, then a few strokes must be made with the brake pedal. In the middle of the stroke, the pedal is fixed if it falls through. If the brake pedal does not move, then repair or replace the vacuum brake booster.During a visual inspection, you need to pay attention to whether there are leaks on the body of the vacuum amplifier. If they appear, then you need to find out the reasons for their appearance.Repair of the vacuum brake boosterThe vacuum brake booster is repaired using an appropriate repair kit and standard kit. Replace the vacuum brake booster assembly with a new assembly.If we talk about the technology of replacing and repairing a vacuum brake booster, then first you will need to familiarize yourself with the car manual, clarify all the nuances of the amplifier design and the manufacturer's recommendations for repair.Then you need to act according to the traditional scheme: the traction drive of the amplifier in the passenger compartment is disconnected from the brake pedal; GTZ must be removed in the engine compartment; the vacuum hose is disconnected from the check valve. After the GTZ is removed, a complete replacement or repair of the vacuum amplifier is carried out. It all depends on the malfunction. Image - DIY gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

Good day, dear motorists! Those of you who once drove old car models probably don't remember how much effort had to be applied to the brake pedal to stop the car.

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Fortunately, progress does not stand still, and today we simply cannot imagine a braking system without such a necessary element as a vacuum brake booster. It's not about how the vacuum booster makes the braking process easier, but about such unpleasant moments as malfunctions, repairs and replacement of the vacuum brake booster.

By the way, technologically, the procedure for replacing a vacuum brake booster with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to take into account the design features of each car model, and the basic principle of operation of the vacuum brake booster is the same on all car models.

And, of course, before you repair or change something, you need to know how this “something” works.

The vacuum brake booster is structurally integrated into one unit with the GTZ (master brake cylinder). The device and scheme of action of the vacuum brake booster, for a person with intelligence, does not represent much intricacy.

The ESP system uses an active brake booster. Its task is to prevent rollover.

The principle of operation of a vacuum brake booster is based on the fact that a pressure difference is formed in the vacuum and atmospheric chambers. It is this pressure difference that acts on the pusher and moves the GTZ piston rod.

First of all, you need to understand that malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster do not lead to a fatal failure of the brake system. It becomes difficult to control the car, and an increase in effort when you press the brake pedal.

Traditional malfunctions that require repair or replacement of a vacuum brake booster are:

depressurization or breakage of the hose that connects the vacuum brake booster to the engine manifold. In this case, you will hear a hiss of the vacuum brake booster. Check the hose for cracks or breaks, the clamps are tightened securely;
a malfunction inside the vacuum booster, there may be a rupture of the diaphragm or aging of the rubber of the valves. In this case, the valve begins to "poison" the air.

How to check the vacuum brake booster? Basically, it's easy. First, if your engine has started to "triple", start diagnostics by checking the serviceability of the vacuum booster. The fact is that depressurization is accompanied by air leakage into the intake manifold pipe, which in turn leads to a sharp depletion of the air-fuel mixture entering the engine cylinder.

The second option for checking the serviceability of the vacuum amplifier. With the engine off, make several (4-6) strokes of the brake pedal. Then, with the pedal locked in the middle of the stroke, start the engine. If during starting the pedal "falls through", that is, it makes a movement to the floor, then the vacuum amplifier works. If the brake pedal remains motionless, then it's time to repair or replace the vacuum brake booster.

During a visual inspection, pay attention to the presence of smudges on the housing of the vacuum brake booster, and, naturally, take measures to find out the cause of their appearance.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster is carried out using the appropriate repair kit and a standard set of tools. Replacing the vacuum brake booster, of course, is done with a new assembly.

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the "smart book", i.e. manual of your car, and clarify the nuances of the design of the vacuum amplifier and the manufacturer's recommendations regarding its repair.

Next, we proceed according to the traditional repair scheme:

in the passenger compartment, disconnect the vacuum booster drive rod from the brake pedal (under the steering shaft);
remove the GTZ in the engine compartment;
disconnect the vacuum hose from the check valve;

After removing the GTZ, we repair the vacuum brake booster or replace it completely. Depending on the malfunction.

Good luck with your booster repair or replacement.

Today, hardly anyone can imagine the work of a brake system without a vacuum brake booster. Next, we will talk about malfunctions and how to repair the unit in question. From a technological point of view, repairing a vacuum brake booster is not difficult, even if you decide to carry out the procedure yourself.

It is only recommended to take into account the design features of a particular car model, the basic principle of the repair itself is similar for all models.

It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the device of this unit before direct repair or replacement.

Structurally, the vacuum brake booster is combined with the GTZ into one unit. For a person with developed intelligence, the scheme of action of the element in question will not present any difficulties. The body is divided into two parts, with the atmospheric part located on the side of the brake pedal, and the vacuum part on the side of the brake master cylinder.

With the help of a check valve, the vacuum chamber is connected to the intake manifold, which in turn is a source of vacuum. An electric vacuum pump is often used on diesel engines to keep the vacuum booster running continuously.

When the engine is stopped, the vacuum booster is decoupled from the manifold by the action of the check valve, which is why the vacuum brake booster is only able to operate when the engine is active. In the event of a malfunction or failure of the element in question, a similar disconnection occurs.

Due to the follow-up valve, the atmospheric chamber in the initial position is connected to the vacuum chamber and to the atmosphere when the brake pedal is activated. A pusher is connected to the brake pedal, due to which the follower valve moves. A diaphragm is connected to the GTZ rod from the side of the vacuum chamber, it contributes to the injection of brake fluid due to the piston to the working cylinders.

Due to the return spring, the diaphragm moves to its original position at the end of braking. The amplifier design can also include an electromagnetic stem drive. Active brake booster is used in the ESP system and its main purpose is to prevent rollover.

In general, the operation of a vacuum brake booster is based on the pressure difference in the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. It is due to this difference that the pusher is activated and contributes to the movement of the GTZ piston rod.

The first thing worth focusing on is that malfunctions of the unit in question cannot contribute to the complete deactivation of the brake system. As a result, the control of the car becomes more difficult and the driver is forced to apply more efforts by pressing the brake pedal. Traditional faults include the following:

The presence of a malfunction inside the vacuum amplifier itself, for example, aging of the rubber of the valves or a ruptured diaphragm. In this case, the valve will start etching air.
Breakage or depressurization of the hose, due to which the engine manifold is connected to the vacuum brake booster. In this case, you can hear the hiss of the element in question. Be sure to check the tightness of the clamps and the hose itself for breaks or cracks.

If the engine starts to triple, diagnose the serviceability of the vacuum booster. Depressurization is often accompanied by air leaking into the intake manifold, therefore, the air-fuel system, which enters the engine cylinder, is dramatically depleted.
As a second diagnostic option, make about five strokes with the brake pedal with the engine off. Then, in the middle of the stroke, fix the pedal and start the engine. If the pedal falls during start-up, the vacuum booster functions. If it remains motionless, then it is necessary to replace or repair the vacuum brake booster.
During visual inspection, it is strongly recommended to pay attention to the presence of smudges that may appear on the body of the vacuum amplifier.
The brake booster must be adjusted periodically.

For repair or replacement, you must prepare a standard set of tools or a corresponding kit.

When the effort on the brake pedal is increased, it is necessary to check the performance of the vacuum booster.

1. Press the brake pedal as far as it will go several times with the engine off and, keeping the pedal depressed, start the engine. In this case, due to the pressure difference in the cavities of the amplifier, the brake pedal must move forward.

If this does not happen, check the tightness of the vacuum booster hose connections and, if necessary, eliminate the air leak. If this does not give a positive result, then the amplifier is faulty and must be replaced.

2. To check the tightness of the vacuum booster, open the hood and start the engine for 1 minute.
Approximately 30 seconds after the engine was turned off, press the brake pedal 2 times, while the characteristic hiss of the air entering the amplifier should be heard. If not, replace the amplifier.
3. Blow out the hose with a non-return valve at both ends. Air should only flow from the side of the check valve. Otherwise, replace the non-return valve.

We remove the main brake cylinder without disconnecting the brake pipes from it How to remove and install the main brake cylinder of a Gazelle car

1. Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp

2. Remove the vacuum supply hose from the fitting.

3. The hose can also be removed together with the fitting.

4. Remove the lock washer with a screwdriver from the cab side.

5. Holding the bolt of the pusher eyelet with the key "19", with the key "17" unscrew the nut

6. Remove the bolt from the pusher eyelet.

7. Take out two plastic bushings from the pusher eyelet

8. Using the "13" head with an extension from the cab, unscrew the four nuts securing the amplifier to the bulkhead of the engine compartment

10. Remove the paronite gasket.

11. Install the new vacuum booster in reverse order, while for the correct operation of the brakes, adjust the position of the adjusting bolt.

To do this, hold the pusher with the key "8", with the key "10" unscrew the lock nut.

12. Then, with a key "8", unscrewing or tightening the bolt, ...

13. We achieve such a position in which the gap between the mounting plane of the amplifier and the head of the bolt is within 1.35-1.65 mm.

14. After that, hold the bolt and tighten the lock nut.

Having lubricated the plastic bushings, we install the amplifier, and then adjust the brake pedal travel.

To do this, holding the pusher of the amplifier with the key "8" (for clarity, shown on the removed amplifier), unscrew the lock nut with the key "14"

15. Rotating the pusher eyelet, set the distance between the center of its hole and the mating surface of the vacuum amplifier body - 131–133 mm. Install the brake master cylinder.

Video (click to play).

Free travel of the brake pedal with the engine off should be 3-5 mm.

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Do-it-yourself gazelle vacuum brake booster repair

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