DIY repair of a vacuum brake booster VAZ 2115

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2115 vacuum brake booster from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The VAZ 2115 vacuum brake booster is one of the main working mechanisms of the car brake system. The efficiency of braking largely depends on its serviceability, and therefore your safety. Consequently, the vacuum brake booster must be regularly checked in order to detect its malfunctions or malfunctions in a timely manner.

Together with the replacement of the brake discs, I also changed the vacuum brake booster, although the old one worked, but when I pressed the brake pedal, it made hissing sounds.

I bought a vacuum called the original, at a cost of 1320, the choice was not yet the original, it is cheaper by 150 rubles, you cannot save on this, and 150 rubles. the weather will not be improved.

We climb under the hood and begin to release the vacuum cleaner. For convenience, I removed the air filter housing and moved the absorber aside. We unscrew the brake pipes, suitable for the brake master cylinder, and two bolts of the brake cylinder to the vacuum booster (arrows in the photo)

We remove the main brake cylinder and put it aside, you can throw it out if there is a new one.

Then, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the bracket of the vacuum cleaner to the body

We go to the salon, climb under the pedals, remove the corkscrew fastening the vacuum rod to the pedal, disconnect the rod

We take out the vacuum amplifier from under the hood. Now you can work on the ground.

We unscrew the last two bolts securing the vacuum cleaner to the bracket.

We put the new and old vacuum next to each other, look at them, admire, rejoice at the new spare part

Then we collect everything in reverse order, do not forget to pump the brakes.

After replacing the vacuum and brakes, as I wrote earlier, I was not completely happy with the result. The reason for this was a faulty master cylinder.

Methods and signs of detecting malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster

For instance. Start the engine and turn it off after a few minutes. Then press the brake pedal some times with the usual effort. With a working amplifier, at the moment of the first pressing, the pedal will be pressed, as expected, all the way. The system will work, and the created vacuum will attract the diaphragm, which helps to push the piston of the brake master cylinder through the piston rod.

Video (click to play).

Then the valve will equalize the pressure in the chamber with the atmospheric one. During the second and subsequent presses of the pedal, there will be no place for the discharge to take, which makes the pedal travel less and less. If there is no difference between the initial and further pressing on the pedal, then it is clear: this device does not provide additional force in the master brake cylinder.

Following the experience done, it is worthwhile to perform another one. The engine is off. The brake pedal has been pressed several times in a row. Her move testified to something. Either the results of the experiment seemed inconclusive, or there was a desire to make a control approbation. The following actions are performed. The brake pedal is depressed and the engine starts when the pedal is depressed.

With a working vacuum amplifier, a vacuum is formed in its vacuum chamber, due to which the membrane presses on the stem, the stem pulls the pusher connected to the pedal, and the latter is slightly lowered.

In the case when the pedal remained in place, the conclusion is drawn: the expected chain of events did not take place due to a malfunction of the vacuum brake booster. Such checks reveal significant damage to the part.

Another test makes it possible to determine the presence of small air leaks.When the car engine is running, press the brake pedal, then, without releasing it, turn off the engine. Hold the pedal in the same position for half a minute.

Due to the leakage of the amplifier, the pressure in the vacuum chamber will increase. The diaphragm, under the influence of the return spring, having lost the support of the force that balances its position, will press on the pusher and raise the brake pedal.

brake unit The importance of proper operation of the vehicle's braking system is difficult to dispute. Even a novice driver understands that not only his own safety, but also those of those around him, depends on this. On AvtoVAZ models, a special role in the design is assigned to the braking device, which facilitates the process of reducing the speed. Its breakdown does not lead to a complete failure of the system, but seriously affects the comfort of operating the machine.

Before proceeding with the replacement of a faulty vacuum brake booster (VUT), as well as determining its breakdown, it does not hurt to know the device of the unit. Structurally, the unit forms one whole with the brake master cylinder and includes the following parts:

frame;
diaphragm;
follower valve;
pusher;
stock;
return spring.

under the hood The body is divided into two parts, the one that connects to the GTZ is called a vacuum; the opposite chamber (from the side of the brake pedal) is atmospheric. The diaphragm is connected to the piston rod of the master brake cylinder, which ensures the supply of brake fluid to the wheel cylinders. After the end of braking, the spring returns the diaphragm to its normal position.

The principle of operation of the VUT is based on the creation of the effect of the pressure difference in two chambers. The force from pressing the pedal is transmitted to the follower valve, which at the same time closes the channel connecting both chambers. The created pressure difference acts on the diaphragm and, overcoming the force of the spring, moves the piston rod of the GTZ. Understanding the principle of operation of a vacuum brake booster will help when replacing or determining the cause of its breakdown.

The revision of the unit does not require absolutely any tools, it is enough to pay attention to the behavior of the brake pedal when it is pressed. If once the driver finds out that to stop it is necessary to press harder on the pedal, then this indicates the need to check the VUT. The procedure is performed as follows:

Stop the engine.
Press the brake pedal several times and fix it in the middle of the stroke.
Without taking your feet off the pedal, start the car.

If the "vacuum cleaner" is in good working order, the pedal will fail a little, but if this is not the case, then there are some problems with the brake system. As an additional measure, when a breakdown is detected, a visual inspection is used, consisting of the following points:

Check the tightness of the connection between the check valve and the branch pipe.
Check the flange for damage.
Inspect all pipe bends and replace if cracks are found.
Remove the mat in the cab from the driver's side and check the protective cap of the shank seal under the steering column, if it sticks, then the car may brake spontaneously.
Remove the protective cap and start the engine, then swing the valve shank several times - the presence of a characteristic hiss indicates a breakdown of the part.

Internal breakdowns of the unit are also possible. It is quite common for a valve to malfunction, the material of which hardens. The wear of the diaphragm rubber can lead to its rupture, then replacing the vacuum brake booster will be the only way out of the situation.

The function of the check valve is checked in the following way:

disconnect the hose from the valve;
remove the branch pipe from the VUT rubber seal;
place the nose of a rubber bulb in the hole of the fitting;
squeeze the pear and release after 4-5 seconds, if the pear remains in a compressed state, then the valve is operational.

When the diagnostic process is complete and the need to install a new part is quite obvious, you need to prepare tools and spare parts.Together with the new VUT, the masters advise to change the connecting hose if there are signs of wear on it. Also, we must not forget about the plugs and fittings - parts that are unsatisfactory in condition should be replaced.

From the toolkit you need to prepare:

Pliers or round nose pliers.
A set of open-end and socket-type wrenches for "10", "13" and "17".
Screwdriver.

The replacement procedure is absolutely nothing complicated and is performed in a garage in two hours:

Dismantle the rod that connects the VUT and the brake pedal. To do this, simply pry off the locking plate with a screwdriver and unscrew the fixing part.
Open the hood and unscrew the "vacuum cleaner" from the brake cylinder (TC) using a key or a head on "13".
Then there are two options to choose from. The first is to disconnect all tubes from the shopping center, which will greatly facilitate the task of dismantling the VUT, but it will require pumping the brake system after repair. The second is to leave everything in place, unscrew only the nut on "10", which fixes all the tubes on the body.
Move the shopping center aside and disconnect the hose from the VUT valve to the intake manifold.
Unscrew the nuts at "13" that secure the unit to the wall of the engine compartment.
Replace the faulty vacuum brake booster with a new one in reverse order.

After dismantling the broken device, it is necessary to remove the bracket using the head on "17" and move it to the new VUT. Using a vernier caliper, it is measured how much the rod head protrudes above the plane of the unit body. Measurement results should be within 1.05-1.25 mm. In case of non-compliance with these figures, the adjustment is carried out by rotating the head with a wrench to "7", while the stem itself is recommended to be held with pliers.

Checking the vacuum brake booster VAZ 2115

In order to check the vacuum brake booster - no tools are needed, it is quite simple to pay attention to the brake pedal. If you once found that it is necessary to press harder on the brake pedal for braking or that the brakes have become less effective, this is a clear sign of a VUT malfunction.

1. To check the vacuum booster, stop the machine and turn off the engine.

2. Press down firmly on the brake pedal a couple of times, then stop halfway through.

3. Then, without removing your foot from the brake pedal, start the car.

If the vacuum brake booster is working properly, the brake pedal will fall down a little, if this did not happen with the booster or the brake system, something is wrong.

Visual inspection of the VAZ 2115 vacuum amplifier

1. Check the tightness of the connection of the branch pipe with the check valve;

2. Make sure there is no damage to the flange;

3. Next, inspect all the bends of the branch pipes, finding cracks or wet traces - replace them immediately;

4. If the liner seal located under the steering column is damaged, the vehicle may start to brake spontaneously. In order to check this, take out the mat and conduct a careful examination of the protective cap, if it sticks, it can be assumed that it is defective.

5. Then you need to remove the cap and start the engine. Swing the valve stem a couple of times, hissing is a sure sign of breakage.

6. Having found the slightest hint of a malfunction, replace the VAZ 2115 vacuum brake booster, given its low cost and ease of replacement procedure, it will be better than hoping for serviceability and risking your own health.

Replacing the VAZ 2115 vacuum amplifier with your own hands

- A set of keys, open-end and socket for "10, 13, 17";

- A couple of hours of free time.

one.Disconnect the rod protruding from the vacuum booster from the brake pedal.

2. After that, in the engine compartment, it is necessary to unscrew the brake cylinder (TC) from the VUT.

3. Further, many "manuals" recommend to disconnect all tubes, which supposedly complicate the process of removing the vacuum brake booster. However, I do not like pumping the brakes, this is a waste of time, which is not so much already, so I decided that I would do without this item and did it my own way.

4. Three of the four tubes coming from the shopping center are attached to the body; they do not allow the cylinder to be removed from the vacuum. If you unscrew only one nut by "10", you can easily remove the cylinder from the vacuum.

5. After you have eliminated the obstacle - the brake cylinder, disconnect the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the VAZ 2115 vacuum brake booster valve.

6. Next, you need to unscrew the mounting bracket from the body, for this it is better to have a special cardan, see the photo. The vacuum cleaner itself is attached to the body with four turnkey nuts at "13".

7. When the removal is done, move the mounting bracket to the new VUT, for this you need to unscrew the two nuts at "17".

Assembly is carried out upside-down. Recall that in the previous article we looked at how to install speakers in the rear doors of Grants with our own hands. High-quality music is the key to a good mood for the whole day.

This video instruction demonstrates a way to restore the performance of a vacuum booster at home (removing the spring from the brake booster). It is not uncommon for a vacuum booster to become the cause of a triple engine. In order to fix the breakdown, you can buy a new one, but you can try to repair it. The wizard will show you how to disassemble and produce repair of the vacuum brake booster VAZ.

As a rule, no one repairs this unit responsible for the car brake, but changes it entirely, but if it is not possible to buy, then this method of self-restoring work will be very useful. For all the details and the sequence of disassembly, see the video plot.

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Even more useful tips in an easy-to-use format

Vacuum brake booster VAZ Samara Form (21099)

Why is the vacuum hissing on the VAZ2108?

Hisses when you press the brake pedal VAZ 21091

Replacing the VAZ 2115 vacuum brake booster is a manipulation that can be easily performed on your own. Replacing a vacuum brake booster with a VAZ 2115 is carried out for a number of reasons, which will be studied in detail in this publication.

Vaz 2115 replacement of the vacuum booster

As you know, the braking system of a modern car is a rather complex design, where several units and mechanisms are combined. Indeed, there are a lot of details and components here.

Note. It is clear that the braking system or vehicle of these years is qualitatively different, for example, from the vehicle of previous years. And the most important difference, of course, is the vacuum amplifier, which is the most effective mechanism that increases the stability of operation, reliability and durability of the entire system.

The vacuum amplifier or VU fails and this has its own fundamental factors. On the other hand, thanks to the ingenious invention of engineers, this unit is made in such a way that it is quite easy to repair, even in your own garage.

Replacing the vacuum amplifier VAZ 2115

Let's consider the most important features of this type of vehicle:

As a rule, the amplifier is installed on the car near the brake master cylinder.
The amplifier housing is divided into two parts: vacuum, which is located on the side of the master cylinder, and atmospheric, located near the brake pedal.

A specially designed air intake manifold is needed so that the vacuum chamber has a source for vacuum. It is connected to the camera through a special element.

Note.There is no diesel unit on the VAZ 2115, but if on some cars it is installed instead of a gasoline one, an electric pump is also needed for the normal operation of the vacuum amplifier.

When the engine stops, the manifold and valve are automatically disconnected from each other. Thus, the amplifier is only able to function when the car's engine is running. And in other cases, in fact, it is not needed.
When any breakdown is observed, the vacuum booster is also disconnected.

Note. This amplifier may stop working even while the vehicle is in motion if it detects any breakdown. But this does not mean that the car will lose its brakes. They will continue to function, although not at their full strength.

A special follower valve is responsible for the connection of the atmospheric chamber with the vacuum chamber. After the driver engages the pedal, this valve will begin to monitor the connection with the atmosphere.
A pusher, which is installed nearby, is directly connected by a pedal. Its main task is, in turn, to move the follower valve.

There is another detail in the vacuum brake system. This is the diaphragm of the connection body, which is located on the side of the vacuum chamber, and is connected to the cylinder rod.
Thus, there is a never-ending effect on the TJ (brake fluid), which is carried out by means of a piston directly on the working cylinders.
The mechanism also has a return spring, the task of which is to return the diaphragm to its initial position.

Detailed scheme of the VU operation

Note. The advantage of VU brakes is their simplicity. This mechanism works due to the pressure difference formed in the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. At the right time, this very difference affects the pusher, and he continues it, passing it on to the piston rod of the master cylinder.

Note. It is important to remember that when this mechanism leaves the normal operation mode, the brakes continue their work. This is one of the advantages of such a system. In such a situation, the driver of the VAZ 2115 will simply have to put a little more effort on the brake pedal. On the other hand, there may be some difficulties with the controls, but they are insignificant.

One of the reasons for the breakage of the element can be a rupture of the hose or even a crack in it. As you know, this very hose plays a very important role, connecting the manifold of the power unit and the amplifier.
In the event of a hose rupture or other problems associated with it, the entire system is depressurized.

Advice. It is not difficult to be able to determine that this is a depressurization. The characteristic hiss sound is evidence of this. The vacuum booster tends to hiss in this case.

Depressurization is eliminated in the following way: the hose is inspected, breaks and cracks are wrapped around, the clamps are carefully checked, which can also be relaxed.
Another reason for the failure of this mechanism is called the rupture of the diaphragm located right inside the mechanism. If air begins to escape from the valve, then this is the symptom.

To check the functionality of this element, it is recommended to do the following:

Press the brake pedal several times (5-6) while the car is not yet started. Thus, pressing the brakes, we create the same pressure in both cavities, close to atmospheric.
Keeping your foot on the pedal, start the engine. If the vacuum booster is in good condition, the pedal should move forward arbitrarily.
If the pedal does not go forward automatically, then you need to check the attachment of the hose tip, as well as other points that negatively affect the efficiency of the amplifier.
If all else fails, the vacuum booster is defective and must be replaced.

To start replacing the vacuum amplifier, you first need to arm yourself with the necessary tools and materials:

A screwdriver and pliers.
Keys 13 and 17.
Brake fluid.
Rubber caps and special plugs.

In some cases, it is not necessary to dismantle the vacuum booster. It will be enough just to replace the master cylinder.

Note. You can also say this: if the brake pedal on a car with a vacuum booster becomes softer, and pumping out air locks from the entire system does not lead to anything, the master cylinder will need to be replaced.

The block with wires is disconnected from the brake fluid level regulator.
We take a key for 10 and begin to unscrew alternately the union from the main cylinder.
We put plugs on the brake pipes and the cylinder.

Note. The plugs make it possible to avoid air penetration into the brake system, so as not to pump out the plugs later, which is not so easy.

We take the 17 key and unscrew the two nuts with which the cylinder is fixed to the vacuum amplifier.
Remove the cylinder.
We put a new one.

Disconnect the block with wires from the regulator again.
We remove the union.

Replacing the vacuum amplifier with a VAZ 2115

Note. The master cylinder may not be removed. It will be enough just to disconnect the fittings on the left. Then you will need to take the cylinder to the side.

Disconnect the hose from the valve.
We take out the bracket from the passenger compartment, which locks the brake pedal finger.
We remove the finger.
We take the 13 spanner wrench and unscrew the 4 nuts that fix the vacuum booster to the car body. We dismantle the old amplifier.

Removed VU brake boosterNote. In the process of these works, you will have to suffer a lot, since this is not the most convenient job.

We twist the mounting frame onto a new VU using a 17 key.

We carry out the assembly, remembering that it is recommended to first connect the brake pedal and the VU using a special pin, and only then screw it completely.

Replacing the vacuum amplifier in the VAZ 2115

Advice. It is better to immediately change the vacuum hose, as with prolonged use it loses its elasticity and flexibility. As a result, cracks and even fractures occur.

As you can see, nothing complicated. VU was replaced. If you do everything according to the instructions, no problems should arise.
In the process of doing it yourself, it is recommended to view photos and videos - materials that give a practical understanding of the whole process. The price for services of this kind in the service station is rather big today, which a priori indicates the advantages of independent work.

It is difficult to imagine the work of brakes without a vacuum brake booster. It is difficult to overestimate the work of this device, however, like all others, it is not “insured” against breakdown. Today I propose to talk about the main malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster and how to fix them.

On the one hand, repairing a vacuum brake booster is not particularly difficult if you decide to repair this device yourself. The most important thing is to take into account all the design features of a particular brand of car, the very principle of carrying out repairs is not particularly different.

A little about the device of the vacuum brake booster.

Structurally, the vacuum brake booster is one unit combined with the GTZ. For an advanced motorist, the device of this unit will not seem complicated. The body is divided into two parts: the vacuum part is located on the side of the brake master cylinder, the atmospheric part is on the side of the brake pedal.

The vacuum chamber is connected to the intake manifold with a check valve, which is a source of vacuum. Most often, an electric vacuum pump is used in diesel engines in order to keep the vacuum booster in constant operation. In the event that the engine stops, the vacuum booster is disconnected from the manifold by means of a check valve, which is why the vacuum brake booster is very dependent on the operation of the motor and can only function with a working engine.

After activating the brake pedal by means of the follower valve, the atmosphere chamber is connected to the vacuum chamber and the atmosphere.The brake pedal is connected to a pusher, due to which the follower valve moves. The diaphragm is connected to the GTZ rod from the side of the vacuum chamber, thanks to which the brake fluid is pumped by the piston to the working cylinders.

The return spring returns the diaphragm to its original position after the end of braking. The amplifier design can also include an electromagnetic stem actuator. The ESP system uses an active brake booster and its main purpose is to prevent rollover.

Possible malfunctions of the vacuum brake booster.

First of all, attention should be focused on the ineffective operation of the braking system, that is, the deterioration in vehicle control (TC), the need to make more efforts in order to brake. The following faults are considered classic:

1. Malfunctions inside the vacuum amplifier itself (rupture of the diaphragm or aging of the rubber of the valves). In this case, the valve will vented air.

2. Depressurization or complete breakage of the hose that connects the engine manifold with the vacuum brake booster. As a rule, such a malfunction is accompanied by a hiss of this device. Be sure to check the tightness of the clamps, as well as the hose for cracks and breaks.

How to check the vacuum brake booster yourself?

1. If the motor starts to work unevenly (intermittently or troit), it is necessary to diagnose the serviceability of the vacuum amplifier. Often, depressurization is accompanied by air being sucked into the air intake manifold pipe, as a result, the air-fuel mixture entering the cylinders is dramatically depleted.

2. Alternatively, you can try to diagnose the malfunction in the following way: make 5-6 strokes of the brake pedal with the engine “muffled”. After that, in the middle of the stroke, fix the pedal, then start the motor. If the pedal fails during start-up, the vacuum amplifier can be considered working. If the pedal remains stationary, repair or complete replacement of the vacuum brake booster is required.

3. Carry out a visual inspection and look carefully to see if there are any smudges on the body of the vacuum amplifier.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster.

In order to make a repair or replacement, you need to have some skills and knowledge, it will not be superfluous to look into the manual for the repair and maintenance of your car. In addition, you will need tools, as a rule, a standard set is sufficient.

Below I give you a step-by-step instruction on the procedure for repairing a vacuum brake booster:

1. Read in detail the manual (manual) for the repair and operation of the car, determine the key nuances for yourself.

2. Disconnect the booster drive rod from the brake pedal, which is located under the steering shaft.

3. In the engine compartment, remove the GTZ.

4. Depending on the breakdown, repair or completely replace this device.

Repair of the vacuum brake booster of cars VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115, Lada Samara

Spare parts. The right choice is buying repair kit for a vacuum brake booster manufactured by BRT (Balakovo)... The quality of products (not only of repair kits) from this manufacturer is always on top. But, in my case, a kit from AWEL (Ukraine) was purchased and installed. I will say right away that the quality of the rubber of this company is pleasantly surprising. Time, of course, will show / check how good everything is, but so far there are no complaints. The complete set of repair kits is the same (see photos 1 and 2).

Tool. In order to repair the VUT (vacuum brake booster), you first have to remove it from the car. How to do this and what tool you need, you can find out by reading the article on replacing the vacuum amplifier. To work on disassembling and assembling the amplifier itself, you will need the following tools: a large flat screwdriver, pliers, a hammer, and a couple of clean rags.Well, and, of course, do not forget about attention and accuracy))). There is nothing complicated in this work, but if you whip it up, you can forget some part during assembly or damage the new diaphragm.

Photo report on the repair of a vacuum brake booster (VUT) of cars VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115, Lada Samara:

The body of the vacuum amplifier consists of two halves. And in order to disconnect them, you need to deal with the factory rolling. To do this, use a large screwdriver to squeeze out all the folds on the body (photo 3). Pliers can also be used for this purpose (photo 4). But no matter what tool you use for disassembly, the main thing to remember is that you should act slowly and carefully. Do not bend the metal in the opposite direction or break the edges of the case, because due to such rough handling, the subsequent assembly of the vacuum amplifier will be much more difficult.

Also, what I want to say or recall, there is a rather powerful spring inside the vacuum amplifier. And, if we forget about its existence, then, after squeezing out the last fixing sides, the amplifier can effectively fly apart / split into two halves. The surprise is not fatal, but not desirable. In order to avoid such an unpleasant incident, the halves of the amplifier should be fixed with standard GTZ nuts. We put several washers or nuts of a suitable diameter under them and tighten the nuts (photo 5).

If you don't want to mess with the nuts, then you can hold the halves of the amplifier with your hand during disassembly. This, of course, is not so convenient, but quite realistic.

Oops! After removing all obstacles, the amplifier falls apart (photos 6 and 7).

Now all that remains is to systematically replace all the old rubber parts with new ones. You can, of course, replace only one diaphragm.... In most cases, she is to blame for a malfunction of the vacuum booster. For example, in my case, the amplifier is practically new and replacing one diaphragm would be enough. But, it is still correct to replace all rubber parts. Plus, if traces of dirt, sand, brake fluid are found inside the amplifier housing, then the housing should be rinsed and cleaned.

Further, briefly and to the point. Remove the spring and washers with rubber rings. There are no rings in the repair kit, so we try not to break or lose them... And, most importantly, do not forget about them when assembling, since the amplifier will not work without these rings! Photo # 8.

We take out the plastic piston from the body. We remove the covers of the studs and the diaphragm from it (photo 9, 10, 11, 12). You can immediately install new parts in their place.

Remove the protective cover of the valve body. In its place we put a new one, photo 13 (after having smeared it with cast, cyatim, etc.).

Lubricate the studs. And carefully mount the piston into the body (photos 14 and 15).

We put washers with rubber rings on the studs (photo 16).

On the second half of the body, we change the sealing ring of the check valve and the GTZ stem (photos 17, 18, 19, 20).

We check that the diaphragm in the body lies flat, without twists and is not twisted (photo 21).

We connect the parts of the vacuum amplifier. We tighten them with nuts (photo 22).

Then, using a screwdriver and a hammer, bend the edges (photos 23 and 24).

Ready! Repair of the vacuum brake booster (VUT) of the car VAZ 2108-21099, VAZ 2110-2112, VAZ 2113-2115 completed... As you can see, there is nothing difficult in this work. The main thing is the presence of desire and time.

VUT is undoubtedly a very important mechanism in the braking system of a car. Its malfunction can become a source of danger, therefore, a periodic check of functionality is required.

Next, we will talk about malfunction indicators vacuum brake booster on VAZ 2114 cars, the algorithm for replacing it with your own hands.

To diagnose any VUT malfunctions, it is enough to look closely at the operation of the brake pedal. If at one moment it took more effort to slow down the vehicle, one can judge poorly working vacuum brake booster... To check, do the following:

Stop the car, turn off the engine.
Press the brake pedal repeatedly, then stop halfway.
Start the car without removing your foot from the pedal.

If the VUT is in good working order, the brake pedal will fall down, if this does not happen, the brake system is not in order.

Check if the connection between the pipe and the non-return valve is tight.
Make sure the flange is intact.
Inspect the bends of the pipes. They will need to be replaced if cracks or wet marks are found.
If the liner seal located under the steering column is damaged, the vehicle will automatically brake.
To make sure that the cause of the brake system malfunction is this, you need to get out the mat and carefully inspect the protective cap. When it sticks, the shank seal is defective.
Remove the cap, start the engine. Wiggle the valve stem several times. If a hiss is emitted at the same time, a breakdown is clearly taking place.

If there is at least one of the listed signs, the VUT VAZ 2114 must be replaced.

It is often recommended to disconnect the tubes that complicate the process of removing the VUT, but you can do without this.
Three of the four tubes running from the brake cylinder make it difficult to remove the cylinder. To dismantle the cylinder, you can unscrew only one nut by "10".

Remove the mounting bracket. It is better to use a special cardan (its image is in the photo). The VUT itself is attached to the body with four turnkey nuts on "13".

Move the mounting bracket to the new vacuum brake booster (you will need to unscrew a couple of nuts on "17").

Reassemble in reverse order.

If the engine overheats a lot, major repairs and large cash infusions will be required. To prevent this, you need to monitor the coolant level,.

The function of the speed sensor (DS) in the vehicle is to transmit electrical impulses to the controller, which is guided by those received.

Let's get acquainted with the process of replacing ball joints on VAZ 2107 cars. To replace the ball joint, you will need to put the car on a lift or.

Video (click to play).

The reason for the need to replace the front suspension springs may be a violation of the integrity of the springs. This could be the result of mechanical ones.