There is nothing eternal in the sublunary world, this statement also applies to products such as sanitary containers called bathtubs. Their surface becomes dirty yellow, often covered with a network of cracks and takes on an unpresentable appearance. It is extremely unpleasant to use such a font, and it becomes impossible to remove the result of long-term operation by thorough washing even with the use of the most aggressive detergents. Contamination is firmly retained in a multitude of microdamages in the enamel layer, from where it is almost impossible to remove them. The restoration of baths with liquid acrylic in this state becomes inevitable.
Of course, you can replace the font with a new one, but this event, in terms of labor and money costs, is tantamount to a full-fledged repair. To avoid it, there is only one radical way - the restoration of baths with liquid acrylic.
A common household name for a group of polymeric materials based on methacrylic and acrylic acids with the use of a number of polymer additives to give the compositions the desired properties.
The material has been known for over 70 years under the name polymethyl methacrylate, was developed to replace glass and is known as plexiglass. With the introduction of various additives into the composition, it is widely used for the production of sanitary ware, including artificial stone. The material is lightweight, durable, well processed.
There are many ways to restore a worn-out bathtub surface, including painting the walls with special paints. However, the best results are obtained by using acrylic. Provided the surface is properly prepared, acrylic exhibits high adhesion to metal surfaces and forms a durable protective layer with a thickness of 2 - 8 mm.
This is the most important step in a bathtub restoration. The main task of such an operation is to clean the inner surface of the font as much as possible before applying a protective coating, this is done as follows:
Acrylic bathtub coating is sold in a two-component composition - a base agent and a hardener. Mixing is done immediately before use, when the bath is completely ready for use. This is due to the limitation of the time the mixture is suitable for work. Almost complete polymerization occurs within 40-50 minutes, after which the composition thickens to the point of complete impossibility of its use.
Stirring of the composition should be done with a wooden stirrer with a circular cross-section, taking into account that the uniformity of the substance determines the final quality of the restoration. If desired, you can use an electric drill with a stirring attachment, but you need to set the minimum speed on the device. Otherwise, the mixture may end up on the walls of the room, and not on the object being restored.
Acrylic compounds allow the use of tinting. Such additives, precisely for this application, have been developed and produced for their intended purpose. What tinting can be used is indicated on the packaging with an acrylic composition. The only limitation is the amount of additive - it should not be more than 3% of the total mass of the material. Categorically! Solvents must not be added to the acrylic coating, this leads to instant deterioration of the composition.
Only after completing these operations can you start mixing and applying the composition.
It is most convenient to apply it with a ladle with a spout, pouring out the composition with a uniform string, starting from the highest point of the vessel.
It is desirable that the amount of mixture in the jet allows the walls to be coated from top to bottom in one pass. It is better to give a little more composition, the excess will drain through the drain hole into a pre-installed container. When re-pouring onto uncovered areas, embossed smudges may form. It is unacceptable to level possible irregularities with a spatula, while an irreparable defect of the protective layer is formed.
When the walls of the font and its bottom are completely covered with the composition, the work can be considered finished. The time for complete polymerization of the composition is indicated on the packaging of the material and is usually about 3 hours.
At the end of the work, you need to turn off the light in the bathroom and inspect the coating layer in the light of an ultraviolet or LED source. This will help to identify fibers, hairs or debris that have accidentally got into the mixture or on the surface. They must be removed immediately.
During drying, you need to tightly close the door to the bathroom and do not enter it during the entire drying process in order to avoid dust entering the room, which can spoil the restored surface.
At the end of the final polymerization time, it is necessary to carefully cut off unnecessary beads, and then install plumbing fixtures. At the same time, do not pinch the joints in order to avoid cutting through the acrylic layer.
The restoration of a cast-iron bath at home is especially shown, since the dismantling and removal of such a product is accompanied by significant costs, and the strength characteristics of the main material are sufficient for operation for more than one generation.
The result of the restoration with liquid acrylic appears in the form of a new durable surface with antiseptic properties.
Cleaning of the repaired surface should be carried out without the use of cleaning agents that contain abrasive additives or chemically active substances. It is advisable to wipe the clean surface dry with a soft cloth.
In a bath with an acrylic surface, you must not soak laundry before washing, and also take salt baths, especially with colored salts.
A fairly popular option for restoring the font is the installation of acrylic inserts. This is the option for performing work that you cannot recommend for doing it yourself. The process can be described in the following sequence:
The shelf life of the liners is determined at 20 years.But the cycle of use of sealants and adhesives used when installing the product is 3-4 times less. As a result, moisture penetrates between the bathtub and the liner, putrefactive processes develop with the release of corresponding odors.
The prices for inserts are declared by various contractors in the amount of 4-5 thousand rubles. But it often happens that this price does not include the invitation of the measurer or other work, as a result of which the final price of the issue turns out to be significantly higher. As a result, it is approaching the cost of completely replacing the font with a new one, since, among other things, it is necessary to dismantle part of the tiled walls.
One of the main questions is how much will it cost? The market offers a variety of options for purchasing liquid acrylic. First of all - about the completeness of the sale.
The minimum set of acrylic and hardener: for 1 package they ask from 1700 to 1900 rubles. Improved options (according to the seller - using nanoparticles) are somewhat more expensive when purchased in bulk.
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However, it is more convenient to purchase repair kits, which include both surface preparation means and plumbing for the bathtub after repair. In the widest configuration, such a set can be purchased for 3000 rubles. When doing work on your own at home, this completeness seems to be the most preferable - you will not need to run to the store for every little thing.
Restoration of the font with liquid acrylic allows you to improve living conditions in a house or apartment in the shortest possible time, without resorting to capital expenditures for repair work. The simplicity of execution allows you to make them yourself with a satisfactory quality. After reading this article, anyone can safely get to work and be confident of success.
If, instead of dismantling the old cast-iron font, you decide to try to restore the bowl, then you should look through the reviews on the repair of the bath with acrylic. Often, users prefer this particular option, since it saves finances, and there is no desire or need to throw out the cast-iron bathtub, which retains heat well. A small monitoring of reviews, calling the companies involved in this process and you can call the wizard. By the way, the work will not take much time and it is quite possible to restore the bath with acrylic with your own hands.
So, the first thing to consider in the preparatory process is cost. A huge number of companies and private craftsmen offer to restore the bath cover with acrylic. But the price depends on the following factors:
Skill level of workers. A good professional cannot be cheap.
The amount of work performed by specialists. If this is just a repair of baths with acrylic without sealing seams and a bath-wall junction, then they will not take much for this type of work.
Advice! It is best to fill the seam with acrylic, since the finishing and sealing procedure does not require installing a "plinth" along the edge of the bowl or covering the gap with a sealant.
Coating option: manual, bulk or insert. The first method does not guarantee strength and durability, and the third is a coating renewal with an acrylic liner.
Advice! The last option is simpler and best. It fully meets all the requirements for updating the font, and the restoration process will be much faster than in any other version. But here it is important to choose the right wizard, help can be provided by user reviews about the company and the professional level of services.
Looking at user responses, there are several unpleasant features of the work:
Smell of acetone. Renovation of the bathtub with acrylic by the pouring method involves the use of solvents, therefore it is best to remove children and pets from the apartment.
Preparatory work. It is necessary to take out the furniture, free the room from accessories and other trifles before the arrival of the master.
Acrylic coating curing time. As a rule, the final hardening occurs in 4-5 days. It is strictly forbidden to use the bathroom.
Each restoration method has its own advantages and disadvantages. But if you want to repair the bathtub with acrylic with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the options in a little more detail.
Renewing the bathtub with acrylic with your own hands allows you to return the font to its original appearance and at the same time not lay out a whole fortune. Simple and understandable tips will help to make the bowl snow-white, even if before that it was mercilessly exploited for a dozen years. Using modern materials, it is possible to choose one of three available methods of coating restoration. So, how to renovate a bathtub with acrylic?
Manual repair of a bathroom with acrylic is simple: for this, special wear-resistant enamel is used. The composition is sold in any store in the form of liquid enamel or aerosol.
Important! Coating spray is more convenient to use, but such enamel will last much less than ordinary enamel.
All renovation of an old bathtub with acrylic can be divided into three large stages:
surface preparation for a new coating;
priming and sealing;
final processing.
Advice! When making repairs to the bath with acrylic, you need to look at the cans with the goods (enamel). The manufacturer is obliged to provide detailed information on the composition and instructions for use.
You need to start by cleaning and leveling the inside of the bowl. It is important to be careful and careful here. In addition, all work is carried out according to strictly defined rules.
For sanding the surface and cleaning the old layer, you can use not only an emery disc, but also a common cleaning agent with coarse grains.
Important! Manual cleaning should be started with chips and scratches! This option is especially appropriate if it is assumed not complete, but partial restoration of the bath with acrylic.
After sanding the surface, rinse off the product, fill the bath with hot water and leave for 15-20 minutes.
Important! The more thoroughly the surface is cleaned, the better the enamel will lay, and the restoration of the bathroom with acrylic will take less time. In this case, the service life of the new coating will increase. If the surface of the bath is poorly cleaned, the enamel after a while will begin to peel off and hang in "rags".
Repair of chips must be done after cleaning, but before priming. After the water in the bathroom is poured out and the surface is dried, the chips are rubbed with an epoxy mixture or a composition of nitro enamel and superglue.
Important! It is necessary to rub the cracks to full evenness with a sanded surface, without the slightest dents and bumps. Otherwise, the repair of the old bathroom with acrylic does not make sense, the paint will begin to peel off precisely from the not rubbed edges.
Renovation of the bathroom with acrylic requires surface preparation for the application of a new layer of enamel. This procedure is carried out for better adhesion of the coating to the base and withstanding the rapid destruction of the composition. The surface can be primed with any special primer in a container (aerosol). But it is best to look at the instructions for the purchased enamel, which indicates the composition and type of the recommended soil mixture. After priming, the inside of the bath should dry completely.
Important! It is imperative to prime the entire surface as thoroughly as possible. The appearance of bubbles is a guarantor of future chips and the next restoration of the old bath with acrylic will be required not in 5 years, but much earlier.
A regular natural hair brush, a cloth swab and enamel are all you need to renew your old finish. Advice! It is best to use a cloth swab, as the hairs from the brush can stick to the enamel layer, and the appearance of the coating will be damaged. It is necessary to apply the acrylic coating in several layers, first drying each previous one.Careful reading of the instructions will give answers to all questions: the type of enamel, the need to apply additional layers, etc.
Important! Drying of the enamel coating takes a lot of time, and the temperature in the room should be at least 20-23C.
Typically, a complete drying cycle takes 5-7 days. You cannot use the bathroom during this time.
It is possible to repair a bathtub with acrylic in a more affordable way. The filling method is much faster than the previous one and has a lot of advantages:
Speed and comfort. The restoration of a bathroom with acrylic in bulk is quick and does not cause trouble for others. All work takes no more than 3-4 hours, while the material is practically odorless.
Safety and quality of performance. The pouring method provides for little interaction with the work surface and the application material. Therefore, marriage through the fault of the master is practically excluded. Such restoration of bathtubs with acrylic with their own hands is done quite often, although it requires the accuracy of filling the surface.
Coating reliability and economy. When calculating how much it costs to restore a bath with acrylic, remember: a standard bowl takes no more than 5 kg of liquid agent, while the density (thickness) of the coating is quite sufficient for long-term use.
Long service life. If the method of manual restoration extends the "life" of the bath for 5 years, then the liquid version has a warranty of 24 months, and with proper care, the bowl retains its ideal appearance for up to 15 years.
Important! If it is not possible to call a master, and you want to know how to restore a bath with acrylic on your own, watch a video lesson. The final result depends on the correctness and thoroughness of the work stages. Also, do not forget that the process of preliminary preparation of the inner surface of the bowl includes cleaning and priming.
The "bath in bath" method is one of the simplest, most reliable and practical. Suitable for restoring a bowl that has been serving for more than a dozen years and has chips, rust and other unpleasant consequences of operation. A similar restoration of old bathtubs with acrylic is carried out with cast iron fonts, since they are distinguished by their strength and long service life.
The restoration method is simple: a specially made acrylic insert of any shape and shade is inserted into the bath bowl and fixed. Reliability is ensured not only by tight adhesion, but also by sealing the seams with silicone putty. The ability to update an old bathtub with acrylic (liner) is not cheap, but the procedure is worth it: the liner is guaranteed for at least 5 years. And judging by user reviews, the bowl can withstand up to 15-20 years of intensive use.
Important! Repairs of old bathtubs with acrylic using an insert should only be carried out with the help of a professional technician! It is impossible to make the insert yourself, taking into account all the nuances.
As you can see, it is possible to update the bathroom with acrylic without any special costs and problems. All the proposed options have their pros and cons, but you should carefully study the technical details in order to end up with exactly the coverage you dreamed of. Acrylic is a fairly durable material, it resists the effects of time well, is easy to clean and gives the surface of the bowl the desired smoothness. And this is already comfort and convenience when taking water procedures.
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Replacing the bathtub can be safely called the most problematic stage of the "secondary repair". As a rule, it is associated not only with dismantling and plumbing work, but also with a partial violation of the tiles laid both on the walls and on the floor. Fortunately, modern building technologies make it possible to significantly simplify this process, namely, to make a do-it-yourself bathroom restoration. One of the most popular methods is using liquid acrylic. We will talk about it in this article.
Before proceeding directly to the consideration of the corresponding technology, let's figure out whether it makes sense to restore the bathtub, and is it not easier to replace it with a new one.
Restoration of bathtubs in general and with bulk acrylic, in particular, has a number of undeniable advantages. First, there is no need to disrupt existing renovations, be it tiles or wallpaper. This not only greatly simplifies the process, but also makes it possible to significantly save on the restoration of the bathroom finish. Secondly, restoration of even the most "killed" bathtub will cost significantly less than replacing it, even if it is the cheapest analogue. And finally, the restoration will take much less time than replacement, since the procedure does not require water shut-off and other "plumbing complications".
One of the most common bath restoration methods is liquid acrylic restoration.
The material is a two-component liquid, which, when mixed, solidifies, forming a hard surface that perfectly hides any defects in the old bathtub.
Compared to other restorative materials, liquid acrylic has several advantages:
It allows you to hide both small and large defects.
Resistant to damage and dirt. With proper care, an acrylic bathtub can retain its attractive appearance for 10-15 years.
Increases heat and sound insulation of the bath. Water in a bath covered with liquid acrylic cools down much longer than in a steel or cast iron analogue.
The acrylic bathtub can be restored without any problems. If, after applying liquid acrylic, a scratch appears on the bathtub, it can be removed without problems, and this does not require updating the entire coating. It will be enough to use a relatively inexpensive "repair kit"
Although it is worth clarifying that with all the listed advantages, liquid acrylic also has a number of disadvantages. It dries for a long time (from 24 to 48 hours), has a specific odor during application and is very susceptible to contamination at the drying stage, so during work it is necessary to protect the bath as carefully as possible from dust and dirt entering it.
However, all these shortcomings are more than compensated by the advantages of this material, so we can safely say: the restoration of baths with liquid acrylic in terms of "price-quality" ranks first among similar methods.
Let's consider the whole process of bath restoration with liquid acrylic. Let's take a look at the "source material" first. It is this seemingly irretrievably damaged bath that we will try to restore.
The technology of restoration with liquid acrylic is not very complicated, however, for everything to be successful, the bath must be properly prepared.
First of all, the surface is treated with some kind of abrasive agent. For this purpose, a grinder with a grinding attachment is best suited.
This, firstly, will remove the remaining dirt from the surface of the bath, and secondly, it will make its surface rougher, which will greatly facilitate the "setting" of acrylic.
After the bath is processed, residues of dust and dirt are removed from its surface, it is thoroughly washed and degreased with any available means (for this purpose, for example, ordinary acetone is quite suitable).
This completes the preparation process for applying acrylic.
Ideally, before applying liquid acrylic to the bathtub, it is worth removing the old drain and overflow, and after restoration, replace them with new ones. But since this does not affect the restoration process itself, in order to save money, this stage can be skipped.
The first step is to mix acrylic with a hardener and let it settle for 15-20 minutes to start the necessary chemical reactions.
Please note that this must be done immediately before starting work, because otherwise the acrylic will thicken and become unsuitable for pouring.
A little diluted acrylic is poured directly onto the bottom of the bath and, with the help of a special plastic spatula, they begin to "put" it on the sides, allowing the rest of the material to flow freely into the bath.
When the sides are completely covered with a layer of acrylic, the material continues to be applied to the middle of the bath walls. If small smudges are formed during the dripping process, they can be smoothed out with the same plastic spatula.
When the entire bath, including the bottom, is covered with a layer of acrylic, it remains to slightly smooth out the smudges and the filling work can be considered complete.
Now you need to wait until the acrylic is completely dry - as a rule, it takes from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the grade of the material, install a new drain and overflow (if, of course, you removed the old ones), and this can be considered complete restoration work.
VIDEO Although the filling procedure is quite simple, errors still occur during its execution, which can negatively affect the final result.
Poor bath preparation. If the surface of the bath was poorly cleaned, there are areas of rust, dirt or grease on it, then in the future this can lead to peeling of acrylic in these places. The same applies to a poorly dried bath.
Incorrect mixing of components. With poor-quality mixing of the components of liquid acrylic, as well as when using the mixture after the recommended period, streaks and bulges may form on the surface of the bath, which will be very problematic to remove.
The work is being carried out in an unsuitable temperature regime. It is recommended to fill at a temperature of 16 to 25 ° C. A significant deviation from these indicators can adversely affect the final result.
Well, as, in fact, when carrying out any work, during the restoration of the bath, you should not rush, but do everything, as they say, "with feeling, with sense, with arrangement." And then the process of restoring the bath with liquid acrylic will take place without problems.
As we said, acrylic can retain its original attractive appearance for more than ten years. However, to do this, you need to properly care for him. Do not wash the acrylic surface with abrasive detergents. This also applies to the rags and washcloths you use to clean the bathtub. For washing acrylic, the usual liquid detergent that you use for dishes is perfect, although special "cleaners" can also purchase special preparations for the care of liquid acrylic.
And yet, if you are going to bathe large pets in an acrylic bathtub, then you should purchase a special rubber mat that will protect the acrylic surface from their claws.
As you can see, restoring a bath with liquid acrylic is a fairly simple procedure and does not require serious costs. We are sure that thanks to our advice, you will easily cope with it. Successful renovation!
Baths, due to constant use, quickly become inadequate. Scratches, chips, and discoloration on the surface make it look unsightly, old and dirty. A full bath replacement can turn into a repair and replacement of plumbing, which implies significant financial costs.
Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub
There are a couple of ways that you can update the look of a product without huge financial investments: special inserts and restoration of the bath cover with liquid acrylic or enamel.
Enamel application is a complex and time-consuming process that requires experience and skill. Therefore, most often, preference is given to acrylic coating. It is acrylic that is recognized as the simplest and most reliable material, the use of which during restoration work does not require knowledge and the presence of special tools.
Contents of step-by-step instructions:
For the restoration of the bathtub coating, two types of acrylic-based material are most often used: liquid acrylic (snow-white paintwork with a high mass of non-volatile components) and stacril (acrylic + epoxy enamel).
The material can be ready-to-use or consisting of 2 components that need to be mixed together. When combined, these components form a composition that, when solidified, differs in strength and resistance to stress and temperature changes. There are several popular brands of acrylic coating "Epoxin", "Plastall", "Stakril".
Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on a bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years, with the condition of correct and gentle use.
Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on the bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years
The finished material does not thicken, spreads in an even layer, no air bubbles form in its thickness
Many experts prefer the two-component material "Stakril" and its analogs mentioned above. Unlike cheaper pouring bath materials that have appeared on the market, it has many advantages.
The bathtub remains snow-white throughout the entire service life.
No sagging during application and the formation of an even protective layer during restoration work.
No bubbles or unevenness.
Good mixing of ingredients.
Add the hardener that comes with the kit to Stakril and stir it thoroughly for 10 minutes
Acrylic and hardener.
A stick for mixing the components of the coating.
Solvent.
Rubber or plastic spatula.
Grinder or drill for bath preparation. The attachments must be equipped with sandpaper discs.
Oxalic acid for removing rust (if the bath is damaged by corrosion).
Automotive filler in case of large chips on the surface.
Before you ennoble the bath, you need to very carefully prepare its surface. If this is not done, the acrylic coating will spread unevenly and all chips and depressions will be visible. If there is rust and it is not removed before the restoration of the bath, after a while it will "lift" the coating and show through on the walls.
Bathtub surface treatment
The first stage of the preparatory work is the removal of the old coating. If the bathtub is very old and its inner walls are significantly damaged, then the old layer of enamel should be completely removed.
To do this, using a grinder or a drill with a nozzle, you need to carefully grind every centimeter of the bath. During this work, a lot of dust can form, it is advisable to protect the respiratory organs during this work.
If the damage on the old coating is minor, then you can simply sand it off with sandpaper.
The second stage of the preparatory work is cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding. It is washed off with warm water, carefully examined for the remaining old enamel, not polished chips, rust spots. If everything is in order, they begin to degrease the surface, if not, continue the preparation.
The second stage of the preparatory work - cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding
Experts recommend repairing deep chips and scratches with automotive filler, this will reduce the work with a sander or drill.After application, the putty is cleaned with fine-grained emery paper.
Degreasing is carried out using a solvent. If there is no such substance, then ordinary soda can be used. Several packs of soda are diluted in warm water to a puree consistency and applied to the inner walls of the bath. Every centimeter of the surface must be treated, otherwise liquid acrylic in untreated places can form an air bubble and chip during operation.
The next step is to heat the bath with hot water. To do this, you need to take a full bath of the hottest liquid from the tap and wait half an hour. Then the water is drained, the surface of the bath is quickly wiped off with an absolutely clean cloth with a lint-free surface.
The bath must be completely dry before pouring.
Then the water drains are dismantled. A container is placed under the lower one, into which the remnants of acrylic will be poured, cellophane is covered under the upper one, which protects the floor from drops of material. It is also recommended to cover the entire floor around the bathtub to avoid damaging its appearance with white drops of acrylic coating.
Then the water drains are dismantled
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Before mixing the components, it is important to keep them indoors for several hours. Mix acrylic and hardener gradually, in small doses. After thorough mixing, the mixture should stand for 15-20 minutes. Only after curing can the material be applied.
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The mixing of acrylic and hardener is described above, but nevertheless, you should first read the manufacturer's instructions so that the result is as successful as possible.
After thorough mixing and curing of the two-component liquid material, the bath can be refined. It is recommended to pour acrylic from the main container into a tall glass, this will simplify the application of the liquid to the walls of the bath.
The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first.
The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first. You need to pour it gently, in a small stream. Use a trowel to carefully level the material against the wall. Then proceed to the outer side. It is important to cast so that the acrylic does not drip to the floor. In this case, the flowing material should reach approximately to the middle of the walls of the bath.
Then proceed to the outer side
When working, you need to focus on ensuring that acrylic is applied to the walls in an even layer, 3-5 mm. After the first round of pouring, you should proceed to the second. Acrylic is poured in the same thin stream onto the walls of the bath along the perimeter. You need to pour the material until it covers the entire bath.
In order to level the sagging at the bottom of the container, you can use a spatula to run along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements, achieving an even distribution of the material. This must be done carefully, without touching the bottom of the container. If, nevertheless, there are influences and irregularities, do not worry: the composition will even out itself during the drying process, and the excess acrylic will drain into a special container under the lower drain.
To smooth out the beads at the bottom of the tank, you can use a spatula to run along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements.
After finishing the walls, the bath will dry after 36 hours. More information on these material properties can be found in the instructions.
But experts recommend starting to use the bath a few days after the restoration - this will extend the life of the coating.
The last stage of work is the connection of plumbing communications to the updated bath.
Experts recommend starting to use the bath a few days after restoration.
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Before starting work, it is required to thoroughly mix the acrylic in a bucket. Pay special attention to the bottom and walls. Thus, the material becomes homogeneous, with a uniform consistency.
Do not heat liquid acrylic, as its viscosity decreases. This can lead to the fact that all the material simply flows down and a very thin layer remains on the walls.Use the material at room temperature, after keeping it indoors for 5-6 hours.
If you want to change the color of the bath, you can use tinting paste. This material is added during the mixing of the components. It is important to know that the amount of color should not exceed 4% of the total mass of liquid acrylic. This will help to avoid changes in the strength characteristics of the coating. The color of the bath will be muted when adding color.
Despite the fact that acrylic coating positions itself as strong and durable, it can be damaged if not properly maintained. It is strictly prohibited to use acids, abrasive powders, metal sponges for cleaning the bathroom. These cleaners will quickly leave deep scratches and ruin the finish.
To clean a refurbished bathtub, special liquid acrylic products are suitable, which can be found in any household chemical store. They will not only keep the surface intact, but also enhance the mirror shine.
Video (click to play).
Let your new bathtub delight you as long as possible!
