DIY bathroom repair with plasterboard

In detail: do-it-yourself bathroom repair with plasterboard from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We decided to do the plasterboard walls in the bathroom with our own hands. The plasterboard structure will be mounted on the wall, which is located between the bathroom and the kitchen. There was no point in plastering this wall. The shingles were rotten and the boards were already crumbling.

The drywall in the bathroom is moisture resistant. Its color is greenish. I will not build a structure of metal profiles up to the ceiling, since the ceiling will be suspended. How I made a water conduit from polypropylene pipes I described here.

The plasterboard structure will be mounted on the wall, which is located between the bathroom and the kitchen.

Fragments of old tiles, the old window towards the kitchen decided to leave under the plasterboard wall. I marked the vertical guides according to the level. There were problems, of course. The house is old and the house seems to have subsided. The bathroom geometry was terrible.

Plasterboard walls in the bathroom

When viewed from the side of the entrance, the walls (left and right) were inclined to the right. It was difficult to catch the levels. Plus, the walls did not converge at right angles. That could subsequently affect the correct installation of the corner shower.

I had to pull the structure of the profiles in such a way that the right, far corner was right. I took into account the problematic points and made the markings taking into account the geometry of the room. By the way, the bathroom is not big at all. 1700x1500 mm.

Plasterboard walls in the bathroom

And in order to place everything that I had planned, I had to think carefully about everything. The width of the plasterboard wall is 1510 mm, which, taking into account the tiles with mortar on the left and right walls, should be enough. Washing machine 600 mm plus 900 mm shower cubicle. In the end, it happened. The calculation turned out to be correct. Once again I was convinced that everything must be carefully considered and calculated. And make at least a minimum stock.

Video (click to play).

The electrical wiring for the washing machine was laid in advance. I took the electrical wiring for the washing machine from a separate 25 (A) circuit breaker on the main panel. The wire used VVGng 2.5 x 3. It took 12 meters of wire. There is no protective ground loop in the house, therefore, I performed a "zeroing" in the socket - I put the neutral wire "N" in the socket on the grounding conductor "PE".

Plasterboard walls in the bathroom

Began to fix the horizontal profiles from below. I walked around the sewerage and water supply pipes. I installed horizontal profiles with a distance of 1500 mm between them, as I often made vertical ones. Subsequently, drywall will be attached to them. Before stitching up the wall with drywall, I checked the joints of polypropylene pipes for leaks. After that I sewed up the wall with plasterboard. In parallel with the plasterboard wall, a metal structure was prepared for plasterboard to close the niche in which the sewer pipe is located.

Plasterboard walls in the bathroom

The place for the revision hatch was laid out with metal profiles. I sewed everything up with drywall. Yes! I closed the water supply pipes that remained in the niche under the drywall with foam insulation and wrapped them with foil tape. But after everything was put into operation, it was discovered that the pipes in the niche were sweating. Condensed water ran down the tape.

Plasterboard walls in the bathroom

But everything was already covered with drywall! I had to climb through the revision hatch as far as possible and cut off the foil. The pipes stopped sweating.

The plasterboard wall was not plastered with anything.I just primed it and after the primer dries the next day I began to glue the tiles on the wall.

It took a long time to choose tiles on the walls. The plasterboard walls in the bathroom were ready.

Now it remains to stick the tiles on the walls, then lay the floor tiles and start installing the shower, toilet and washing machine.

When professional decorators make repairs to the premises, they select materials that are most suitable for the conditions where they will be used. The bathroom is the most difficult room in the house due to the humid microclimate with fluctuations in temperature and insufficient air circulation.

The bathroom is finished with moisture-resistant materials, resistant to fungi and mold microorganisms, for example, tiles or plastic panels. In this article we will tell you if moisture-resistant cardboard can be used in the bathroom, as well as what it is used for.

Drywall in construction terminology is called dry gypsum plaster in the form of rectangular sheets. This material was invented by the owner of a small paper mill in America almost a century ago. For the manufacture of drywall, a thick, viscous gypsum dough is kneaded, which is placed between two sheets of thick cardboard.

The gypsum plasterboard has a standard width of 120 cm, a thickness of 9.5-12.5 mm. Finishing from this material is used for leveling walls, creating additional partitions, mounting boxes and other construction operations. There are the following types of drywall:

GLK - ordinary drywall, with the help of it, repair and decoration of rooms with normal humidity and temperature conditions is carried out. It is a rectangular white sheet. Plasterboard is not used in the bathroom.

Note! If you are making repairs in the bathroom, be sure to use moisture-resistant drywall, which perfectly tolerates the damp and warm microclimate of this room. Manufacturers produce material with the highest quality indicators, which are marked with the letter "A", and cheaper, but less stable drywall, marked "B".

Plasterboard in the bathroom is used relatively recently, however, this material has already earned the trust of experienced craftsmen-finishers. Renovation and finishing of this space is the most expensive for homeowners. However, the price of a drywall sheet is only 300-350 rubles, which, against the background of other costs, seems like a penny.... A small financial investment is more than worth the savings in time and effort when using it. Moisture resistant gypsum plasterboards are used for the following construction operations:

Aligning the walls. Dismantling the old coating and leveling the wall, without which no repair or decoration of the bathroom can do, takes a lot of time from the builders. These events are associated with a large amount of garbage that has to be collected and taken out. Plasterboard walls in the bathroom "eat up" a few centimeters of the area, but allow you to get perfectly flat walls in a matter of hours. This greatly speeds up and simplifies the installation of ceramic tiles.

Important! Moisture-resistant drywall is fixed with metal guides. The frame is built from a metal profile, it allows you to level the surface to be trimmed. The second layer of drywall can be glued with a special mastic.

When doing bathroom renovations, homeowners expect the result to last for at least 10-15 years. Whatever material is used for decoration, a humid microclimate and the ingress of large amounts of water are detrimental even to moisture-resistant drywall. To make it last longer, you need to provide additional waterproofing of walls and other surfaces in the bathroom.

To do this, perform the following operations:

In places where drywall can potentially come into contact with water (over a washbasin, near a shower stall, around a bath), use a coating waterproofing. Before installation, drywall sheets are treated with water-repellent mastic using a roller in several thin sheets. A can of liquid waterproofing weighing 2-3 kg costs 300-400 rubles, which will not affect the total costs, but will significantly extend the service life of moisture-resistant drywall.
The joints between the drywall sheets and the attachment points are treated with a silicone-based sealant. Care must be taken to isolate the joints between the floor and the wall so as not to leave a single chance of moisture.

Note! Plasterboard in the bathroom is a good base for wall or ceiling cladding with finishing material. It is smooth, has good adhesion and is suitable for installing ceramic tiles, applying paint and varnish, fixing plastic panels, pasting with moisture-resistant wallpaper.

Bathroom renovations require homeowners to concentrate all their financial power and energy, and moisture-resistant cardboard can save money and time spent on unkempt operations such as dismantling and stripping old wall coverings. Cladding walls or ceilings with this inexpensive but durable material shortens the repair time by 20-30% and also increases the quality of ceramic tiles. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

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The use of drywall has the following effect:

The walls and ceiling of the bathroom become perfectly aligned in a matter of hours, without exhausting dismantling and taking out a large amount of construction waste. Tiles or other finishing materials are well glued to drywall.
No fungus or mildew forms on the walls under the plasterboard sheathing, as it is highly breathable.
The walls are protected from moisture penetration, so that the finishing material lasts longer.
The use of drywall reduces the time for preparatory work by a third, which allows you to complete the repair in the shortest possible time.
Only environmentally friendly, safe materials are used in the decoration. All components of GKLV are safe for humans, so there is no health risk.

Professional finishers claim that it is possible to create complex, figured structures that embody any wishes of the customer from moisture-resistant gypsum board. However, it should be borne in mind that this material has a low resistance to point impacts. Therefore, in places where you can accidentally touch the wall with your hand, you need to mount drywall in two layers.

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

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Plasterboard decoration of the bathroom is convenient, practical and affordable. Is it possible to use drywall in such extreme conditions that prevail in the bathroom? After all, gypsum does not tolerate high humidity and poor ventilation. And if you also add a park? Yes, the whole family? Can drywall withstand this?

Of course, an ordinary drywall sheet will not cope with this. Nevertheless, technologies do not stand still, and new products are replacing old proposals. Given the versatility of drywall sheets, manufacturers have proposed a special moisture-resistant product that can cope with a bathroom. And now about everything in more detail.

In order for the buyer to quickly and easily distinguish moisture-resistant cardboard from ordinary cardboard, the cardboard on it is painted green. Of course, the shade of greenery can differ depending on the manufacturer and the quality of the color rendering of the cardboard itself. Since cardboard is a completely edible "dish" for all kinds of fungi and mold, various substances are added to its composition that protect the material from microorganisms. Water-repellent impregnations are added to them, which, in fact, set the very moisture resistance that we need.

So, moisture-resistant drywall is laid in the bathroom. Eh, now the sea is knee-deep - you can splash around as your heart desires.

That is how it is, yet it does not hurt to deal with excessive humidity in the bathroom. If the bathroom has a plaster finish, then there should be a high-quality hood. If there is no high-quality natural ventilation in the bathroom, then you need to install forced ventilation, for example, a fan. Moreover, if you are installing an exhaust fan, make sure that there is also a supply of fresh air. Otherwise, you will get reverse thrust in those moments when the fan will "rest".

Often, the forced draft is controlled by a light switch. When the light is on, the hood works. As soon as it goes out, the fan also stops working. This saves electricity, which is good in itself. However, more time is needed for high-quality ventilation. Especially when the air is filled with steam after taking a hot bath.

It is better to remove water from the floor immediately, without testing the coating for moisture resistance once again. After all, it's still plaster. After taking a bath, it is better to wipe the floor and walls with a dry cloth if large drops remain on them.

Drywall loves a solid foundation. Of course, if the walls are even, the sheets can be glued directly onto them. If there are doubts about the quality of the surface, then it is best to use a frame.

Important! When choosing to mount drywall directly to the wall, you need to take care of waterproofing. After all, moisture passing through the drywall can penetrate into the adhesive and weaken it. Insulation from a pair of drywall boards will not be superfluous when a frame is used.

In order to protect the drywall from moisture, its edges are wrapped around the entire perimeter with a hydro-barrier or treated with mastic. The insulation of the docking points at the ceiling and floor level must be especially carefully done. Experts recommend processing the material in the above way and, in addition, covering its entire surface with a water-repellent agent. This will significantly extend the life of the gypsum board.

Since the ceiling takes on the lion's share of moisture (rising steam and drops of condensation), it only needs to be sheathed with moisture-resistant material. It is processed in the above manner.

I recommend reading: DIY plasterboard ceiling.

The paint that will cover the ceiling must also be resistant to high humidity. The same applies to putty.

Luminaires intended for bathrooms must be reliably protected from moisture penetration in order to avoid short circuits. All wiring is laid using corrugated pipes. This will protect the cable from external moisture and possible fire. As a bonus for your diligence, you also get additional cable insulation from possible contact with metal structural elements of the installed frame, as well as from possible mechanical damage.

Important! When the cable is laid in a corrugated pipe, it is quite easy to replace the old wiring afterwards. And at the same time, the finishing materials of the walls and ceiling will not suffer at all.

The bathroom is perhaps the most saturated with all kinds of communications. For laying pipes, special boxes are often arranged that allow you to hide the serpentine weaves of metal or plastic from the eyes, and at the same time facilitate the cleaning process. At the same time, you need to ensure that access to important sites is easily accessible. Embedding plumbing for the sake of aesthetics is a big risk of getting paid if something ever leaks.

Carrying out boxes, niches and other structures in bathrooms is allowed only with the use of moisture-resistant materials.

Imagine a situation in which hot and cold water pipes are hidden behind a plasterboard partition. What will happen if they are laid "as they are"? Let's get a look. In summer, the water supplied is much colder than room temperature. Condensation forms on the pipe surface.Where will he go? Will gradually evaporate from the pipe and soak into the drywall.

How can you avoid this? Pretty simple. It is enough to put on thermal insulation on all pipes. In this case, condensation will not form. And for us, this means that the wall will stand dry and comfortable for a long time. Which is what we are trying to achieve.

Recently, few people use metal pipes when replacing pipes. But still. If you wish to use metal pipes, they must be covered with several layers of paint and insulated. It can be a "shell" made of foamed heat insulator, foil or mineral wool.

For plastic, thermal insulation will also not be superfluous. You just have to add sound-absorbing materials to it. Then the work of the sewer system will be quiet and imperceptible. You can combine these two operations with one hand movement. It is enough to wrap the pipe with mineral wool, which will relieve noise and save heat.

Attention! Polyfoam is not suitable for this particular situation. It is very dense and does not prevent noise.

As in any other room, any finishing work can be done on drywall. Glue tiles, wallpaper, putty and paint - anything is possible. The main thing is that the finishing material is intended for rooms with high humidity.

If the above rules are followed, then gypsum plasterboard structures will serve for a long time.

The only thing to remember is that when removing the finishing material, the protective layer of the cardboard is damaged. Therefore, further operation of the structure is impractical.

Plasterboard finishing of a bathroom is the easiest and fastest way to give the walls the necessary geometry. And as a modeling material for niches and boxes, it has no competitors for a long time. Anyone who knows how to hold a drill, a level and a screwdriver can handle its installation.

Plasterboard is a real miracle among building materials, allowing you to create any partitions and unusual decorative elements of the interior. It is simple and easy to use. And finally, they began to use it in the bathroom as a base for tiles. And this is undoubtedly very good news for those people who are planning to start renovating their bathroom in the near future.For the bathroom, moisture-resistant drywall is suitable. Outwardly, it differs from the usual greenish color. To achieve moisture resistance, the cardboard is treated with a layer of antifungal composition, a layer of a hydro-resistant composition and a layer of an impregnated composition.Due to these additives, a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall is a couple of kilograms heavier than usual. The thickness and length of a sheet of such drywall can be different, it is even possible to order the required dimensions.Of course, moisture-resistant drywall will cost more, but otherwise all its characteristics will coincide with a regular drywall sheet.On the pros of using drywall in the bathroom.Of course, the very idea of using drywall in a bathroom can raise a lot of doubts. But it is this material that gives the opportunity to shorten the repair time and get rid of unnecessary work on cleaning construction waste.It is not necessary to level the walls with special mixtures, wait for them to harden, in order to then lay the tiles beautifully; no need to suffocate from the dust that settles on literally all objects for a long time, which is important for owners who have nowhere to move out of the apartment during the renovation. But it is unlikely that such work will allow you to save money.By using a special spatula 4 × 4 mm, it is possible and necessary to reduce the consumption of tile adhesive to lighten the weight of the entire structure.Seams on drywall will require sealing with a special ready-made paste, which will also save you the trouble of fiddling with putty.On the cons of using drywall in the bathroom. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

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Bathroom and drywall seem inconsistent.Whatever one may say, drywall is still drywall, be it moisture resistant. To ensure a sufficient degree of strength and moisture resistance of drywall, it must be treated with waterproofing mastic for the bathroom, which, frankly, is not cheap: the floor and the bath area are completely processed, plus a meter of the wall on each side of the bath.

And finally, everyone knows the low soundproofing properties of drywall. Therefore, you will need to install soundproof mineral wool boards. But even they are not able to 100% get rid of the noise of the bathroom.

Drywall is a lightweight material that cannot withstand the finish of heavy structures. Therefore, when deciding to cover drywall with tiles, opt for light tiles no thicker than 6 mm.

Use a special drywall adhesive for tiling. It practically does not produce dust when diluted with water and contains special additives so that the solution does not lose strength when it comes into contact with drywall.

When buying glue, pay attention to the fact that it does not contain coarse sand. Such glue will require a thick layer of laying, which is not desirable for you.

If you suddenly use ordinary tile adhesive, then first you will have to prime the drywall sheets to protect the adhesive from water loss. You need an acrylic, latex or polymer primer, the main thing is that it does not contain sand.

Particular attention should be paid to the sealing of seams and joints in the bathroom. The corners and joints of the walls with the floor are glued with a special elastic sealing tape.

And finally, for the treatment of tile joints, we use water-resistant fine-grain grouting. You should not use tile glue instead of grouting, as it will quickly be washed off with water and the seams will be in a deplorable state.

On the surface of the installed, fixed drywall, set aside for facing with tiles, apply a primer with a brush or roller if you will use ordinary tile adhesive. Let it dry for about 4 hours.

If you take drywall glue, then do not prime the surface.

Glue all corners, wall and floor joints with sealing tape. Do not forget about the special waterproofing cuffs for the rosettes.
Cover the required areas of drywall with two layers of waterproofing mastic. The second layer is applied 3 hours after the first one and will take about the same amount of time to dry.
Apply the adhesive in an even, thin layer to drywall.
Install the tiles from the center of the wall by pressing slightly into the adhesive solution.
Rub the tile joints one day after laying the tiles.

So, if all the work is done correctly, you just have to admire the result and, not fearing that the structure will get wet, calmly use the bathroom.

You can level the walls quickly and efficiently with the help of plasterboard structures. However, some owners have doubts whether drywall can be used in the bathroom. The reviews of many masters on this issue differ significantly. To determine how appropriate this method is, you need to study in detail the features of this material and the nuances when installing it in rooms with a high moisture content in the air.

Wall leveling refers to the preliminary rough work performed by builders. Many tile workers refuse to cover such surfaces precisely because they do not know how well the sheets are fixed. In addition, good waterproofing of the entire system, including the supporting frame, also plays an important role in this case.

If you discuss the installation of plasterboard systems with the master cladder in advance, you can get solid guarantees of the reliability of such a structure. Usually, professionals know how to prevent possible interaction problems between tile adhesives and gypsum surfaces.

Installation of plaster structures in bathrooms requires certain knowledge and experience.The plasterboard wall in the bathroom is very sensitive to the humid environment of the room, so craftsmen who do not have practical skills in working with such material often refuse to work with it. In this case, the best solution would be to attract a competent finisher who knows all the nuances of installing drywall sheets and tiling them.

It must be said that today's technologies make it possible to adapt almost any material to the conditions of bathrooms. In this case, drywall is no exception. Only an extremely low-skilled tile worker can argue with this. Any master with knowledge of modern installation technologies knows that the correct processing of drywall in the bathroom guarantees an excellent result.

Usually, finishing a bathroom with plasterboard provides for two methods of installing it. In the first case, the panels are fixed directly to the wall. True, for this, the walls must be relatively flat, without protrusions and significant defects. This installation method is suitable for finishing walls or pasting them with waterproof wallpaper.

With this installation method, the material is glued directly on top of the wall onto a waterproof tile adhesive. For greater reliability of the structure, it is better to additionally fix it to the walls using screws or dowels. In this case, the choice of fasteners depends on the base of the partition.

If you are planning use a ceramic cladding with an impressive weight as a topcoat, then the best solution would be to fix the sheets to a metal frame. It will perform a load-bearing function and reduce the risk of collapse of the entire structure due to increased load.

To do this, you need to purchase an aluminum profile of different sections and galvanized fasteners. These metals are resistant to corrosion in high humidity indoors.

Some inexperienced owners mount a supporting frame made of wooden slats, but this is impractical for a bathroom. Over time, wood loses its protective hydrophobic layer and begins to absorb water. This usually causes it to rot, which threatens the deformation of the pier, and sometimes even its collapse.

For cladding, it is better to use waterproof plasterboard for the bathroom. This material has an impregnated double-sided coating, which excludes the penetration of condensate and water droplets into the gypsum. Additional protection of the material is provided by special antifungal and water-repellent additives added to the gypsum base of the sheet. It is very easy to distinguish hydrophobic boards from their conventional counterparts. They have a characteristic greenish tint, not gray-beige. If you don't want to renovate your bathroom every five to seven years, it's best to refrain from using the latest drywall panels.

There is no limit to the application of such topcoats to such systems. Experienced professionals can easily tile the walls in the bathroom made of plasterboard with tiles, paint them or paste over with wallpaper. Perfectly fits on such a basis and decorative plaster. Sheathe this structure with panels for walls even a beginner can do. Even mirrors and artificial stone can be glued to such base planes.

The only rule that must be observed in this case is that the greater the mass of the topcoat, the stronger the supporting frame of the system should be strengthened.

In addition, to extend the life of the material, it will be appropriate to additionally lay a layer of insulation at the joints of the panels, as well as near their junction with the floor.

Despite its fairly good hydrophobic properties, this material has some areas where the risk of moisture penetration is increased. Usually these are its end parts, as well as the seamy plane. However, even in this case, it is possible to correct the situation with minor losses. A competent tile-maker will definitely minimize the existing risks before laying the tiles.Pay special attention to the bottom end of the sheet. Moisture-resistant plasterboard for the bathroom, like all other gypsum-based materials, is a fragile and brittle substance. Any damage to its coating during installation may result in the further penetration of moisture into the panel itself and its gradual destruction. In addition, constant contact with a wet floor will also contribute to this.Professionals never fix panels close to the floor and ceiling, but always leave gaps of about thirty millimeters between the planes. The distance from the upper edge to the lintel of the bathroom will save the structure when the apartment is flooded by the residents of the upper floor. In addition, open gypsum areas and gaps are carefully covered with a layer of tile glue, which, when dry, will reliably protect the board from moisture penetration. Also, do not neglect grouting tile joints. If all possible sections of steam and water penetration to the plasterboard base are soundly sealed, such a structure will serve you for more than a decade. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

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There is another reliable way to isolate. It must be said right away that its implementation is possible only if the system is mounted on a frame base. To do this, cover the entire back side of the panel with plastic wrap. Fix it on the front part so that the ends of the sheet are under the film. This is an inexpensive, but very effective way to protect the structure from the ingress of evaporating liquid into it.

When deciding to flatten the walls using bathroom drywall, you will get impressive results. This technology will take much less time and effort than traditional plastering and filling of partitions. The walls made in this way have a perfectly flat surface, even if the construction was assembled by a non-professional. With the help of trivial alignment methods, a beginner will not be able to achieve this effect. In addition, you can revet the structure with all the finishing materials available in the assortment, it all depends on the personal taste and design of the bathroom project.

You can extend the life of a structure if you follow certain conditions that are often used by specialists. To exclude the possibility of mold formation on the walls and the subsequent destruction of the material, it is better to equip the bathroom with a forced ventilation system. The lack of air circulation disrupts the heat exchange in the room and increases the humidity in the bathroom. Today, inexpensive artificial air exchange models can be purchased that work in conjunction with a light switch, which will help you slightly reduce energy consumption.

In some cases, installation of additional ventilation is not possible. Then it is better to replace the drywall sheets with its more hydrophobic analogue - gypsum fiber, which looks the same outwardly, but is more resistant to a humid environment.

The most preferable method of frame mounting of panels, since this structure as a whole will be much more stable and stronger. Contrary to popular belief that this method takes up a lot of usable area, this method is considered optimal. By gluing the sheets directly to the wall, you can win just a few centimeters. However, then it will not be possible to properly insulate the sheet with polyethylene. And the strength of such a wall will rather be conditional. Remember that the most reliable frame option is an aluminum profile, not wooden slats.

Plasterboard systems are often hidden behind a box of plasterboard systems. In this case, it is necessary to replace the worn-out pipes with new polypropylene elements and check their tightness. The entire structure must be well insulated in order to avoid the deposition of condensate from cold hoses on the surface of the masking system. Plumbers advise to fix the hot water supply and heating pipes below, and cold - on top. This will also help to cope with the appearance of drizzle.

Professionals usually use sheets for wall cladding, regardless of the installation method, with a thickness of at least twelve millimeters. If you plan to hem the ceiling too, then in this case you can limit yourself to nine millimeter panels. It is not worth saving on this. Thicker material is able to withstand more significant loads.

You can even hang furniture and plumbing on such structures. However, you should purchase special fasteners for plasterboard systems, the so-called butterflies. When these fasteners are screwed into the base, special spacers move apart on them, which hold even very massive interior objects.

In short, drywall sheets are a smart alternative to plastering walls. They are quick and easy to install and create a perfect wall surface. If you listen to the advice of professional craftsmen and complete the installation of such a system correctly, then it will serve you for a long time.

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with plasterboard

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You can argue for a long time about the use of drywall in rooms with high humidity. Opinions on this issue were equally divided - there are exactly as many opponents to use drywall in the bathroom as there are adherents. After listening to some masters, you understand that they are right, you listen to the arguments of the other side - yes, what is it, and they are also right! How to be, how to choose the truth from two truths?

Let's look at this problem from a slightly different angle. Who says drywall has no place in a bathroom? Tilers. Although it is easier to lay tiles on exactly mounted drywall, nevertheless, the responsibility in the event of swelling of the drywall will fall on them. Why? It's simple - if moisture gets under the tiles, then they poorly sealed the seams. Who needs extra problems?

We do not take into account cases with a flood - even the most moisture-resistant gypsum will not withstand the effect of one hundred percent moisture. By the way, a flood can happen not only in the bathroom - any room in an apartment or house can flood. This means that the minimum risk of flooding exists only in a private house, and in an apartment the plasterboard ceiling can deteriorate faster than the walls in the bathroom.

Now there is a different opinion - it is gypsum plasterboards who argue that it is not only possible, but also necessary to level the walls of the bathroom with dry plaster. As arguments, they cite, firstly, the cheapness of installation work and the material itself in comparison with the plastering of the walls along the lighthouses, and secondly, any communications can be easily hidden in the resulting void between the gypsum and the wall (plumbers do not need to grind the walls, and this again- saving money), and thirdly, it's just a quick and relatively dirty job.

Having learned both opinions, now let's listen to the third party and take a look at the room as a whole, and not separately at drywall.

Where does the moisture in the bathroom come from? Rather, how can it get into drywall? There are two options: vapors contained in the air, and direct ingress of liquid, for example, from a shower head. Let's try to prevent these situations. Tile protects from direct ingress of water on drywall, the only weak point of which is the seams. How to fight? Special grout based on acrylic or silicone - it is better not to use the usual dry mixture in the bathroom. For reinsurers, there is another sure-fire remedy - a waterproofing dry mix. It is diluted, like any other cement-based glue, after which it is applied to the gypsum in two thin layers in different directions.

A common cause of drywall swelling is under the tub. As a rule, in order to save material, tiles are not laid there. If you are already trying to save money in this way, then please, tighten the open drywall at least with tile adhesive. For your information, the water that gets under the bath is gradually absorbed into the dry plaster, and it first swells at the bottom, and then gradually at the top.The result is a tile that has fallen like an autumn leaf from a poplar.

Now the vapors are in the air. Everything is simple here - tightness solves all problems. The tiles were not reported to the ceiling - the first minus; the inside of the ventilation duct was not sealed with glue - another drawback. Well, you get the idea, moisture should only be in the bathroom - it should not penetrate beyond the tile.

According to most experts, ventilation is a panacea for all "sores". There is nothing to argue about - in our case it really is. Better ventilation means less moisture in the room. A forced extractor hood operating during water procedures, and for half an hour after that, together with the above methods of protecting drywall, will give you a full guarantee that it will not swell and will serve you faithfully for many years. So feel free to use drywall in the bathroom, but do not forget about additional protection.

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