DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

In detail: DIY bathroom renovation with tiles from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Renovating a bathroom is one of the most time-consuming undertakings: a lot of operations that take time. Completes the entire bathroom with tiles. This is also not an easy task that requires knowledge of technology. In addition, it is necessary to develop a styling scheme, but not somehow, but beautifully. And also - count the number and not be mistaken.

According to modern requirements, the tiles are laid on a flat base. Smooth is with a maximum height difference of 5 mm per 1 sq. m. If the walls or floor do not meet this requirement, the walls need putty - with a deviation of up to 3 cm - or plaster with more curved surfaces. In this case, the floor is leveled with a screed.

The walls must be flat

If there is already a tile on the floor, but you want to replace it, you will have to knock down the old one, level out more or less all the drops and fill it with concrete, align it along the lighthouses. Self-leveling mixtures can be used, but they also need to be leveled, although not as carefully as regular concrete. After the concrete has gained about 50% of the design strength (about 7 days at a temperature of + 20 ° C), work can be continued.

Sometimes the tiles on the floor are not removed in any way (usually small tiles). In this case, a 2-3 cm screed can be poured over and then a new one can be laid.

How to level / putty the walls in the bathroom? All formulations are made on the basis of two binders: gypsum or cement. Since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the use of gypsum plaster or putty is undesirable. No, they can be used, especially since in many high-rise buildings the bathroom walls are also made of plaster. But gypsum is very hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the air, from the walls. Neither tile nor glue will interfere with this. So that it does not "pull" moisture, fungus or mold does not appear on the walls, the surfaces will need to be well impregnated with compounds that reduce hygroscopicity. And preferably several times. And this - additional costs, and considerable. Therefore, it is better to immediately use cement-based compositions - they initially have low hygroscopicity.

Video (click to play).

Rotband - popular gypsum plaster, Vetonit - cement

Before starting the plaster or putty, before laying the tiles, all surfaces are primed. We must not forget about this stage. Primers improve the adhesion of one layer of materials to another, which has a positive effect on the quality of the finish. If you put the finish on walls without a primer, chances are good that the finish will bounce, sometimes with putty, sometimes just with glue - where the weakest adhesion is found.

Several primer options

When choosing a primer, pay attention to its additional properties. In the bathroom, antifungal additives will come in handy, as well as hydrophobic additives (repelling water).

Actually, after all these stages, the decoration of the bathroom with tiles begins directly. First of all, lay it on the floor. Use a special tile adhesive for wet rooms. They start from the door, move to the far wall. There is usually a bathroom along the opposite wall, so all the trims will be underneath.

A layer of glue of about 4-5 mm is applied to the leveled floor, the surplus is removed with a notched trowel, the tiles are laid, they are leveled on a horizontal surface, checking with a level. All subsequent ones are laid in the same way, maintaining the gaps with the help of plastic crosses. Large-format tiles are usually used on the floor, therefore, the crosses are taken thicker - 3-5 mm.

After the glue has dried (the period is indicated on the package), you can start finishing the bathroom walls. The technology is simple and very similar to the one described above:

a 3-5 mm thick layer of glue is applied to a primed flat wall, the excess is removed with a notched trowel, which forms recesses;
the tile is dipped in water for a few seconds, set in place, pressed and tapped with the handle of the trowel, achieving its even position in all planes;
check the position using the building level, checking the horizontal and vertical installation;
put the second next;
the gap between adjacent elements is set using special plastic crosses (2-3 mm depending on the format);
vertically and horizontally are checked.

Bathroom decoration with tiles: put on the walls

There is another way - the glue is applied not to the wall, but directly to the tile, removing the excess with the same notched trowel. They apply it to the wall and align in the same way. This method is neither better nor worse. Choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

The first row is gradually filled - from wall to wall. The second is exposed on it, and so on, already up to the ceiling, then they move on to the second wall. Remember to remove the crosses while working. The glue sets quickly, and as a result, it can be difficult to pick them out. Also, keep the tiles clean. All traces of glue, even the smallest, must be wiped off. You can use a sponge or rag, or both. Pay attention to the fact that the adhesive does not protrude from the seams. They should be half empty - they will need to be trimmed - rubbed.

The seams are rubbed with special painted compounds, which are matched to the tone or made contrasting. After the glue has dried, the grout is diluted to a paste state, applied to the seams with a small rubber spatula, and the excess is removed with it. The remains are wiped off with a soft, non-fading cloth.

There are still many features and nuances - in terms of layout, bathroom design, doorway, etc., but in general, bathroom decoration with tiles is done using this technology.

To get a high-quality and beautiful bathroom, you must first think over the layout of the tiles. Let's say you have already looked after several options in different colors or sizes. Now you need to decide which one is better to buy and in what quantity. The difficulty lies in the fact that today the decoration of the bathroom with tiles is sharply monochromatic from floor to ceiling. Usually two or three colors are combined, and there is also a certain number of fragments with a pattern or decor. And we need to accurately count their number in order to buy immediately from one batch and not be mistaken (due to the peculiarities of the technological, process, the colors of different batches may have significant differences).

An example of drawing a tile for finishing a bathroom

To solve this problem and, at the same time, develop a tile layout scheme, you will need a large sheet of squared paper or graph paper, a pencil and colored pencils. Draw a plan of the room on the sheet, accurately observing the dimensions and proportions. On the corresponding walls, mark the location of the doors, bathroom, plumbing, mirrors, washing machine. Draw all objects on the same scale. It is better to make a drawing large - it will be easier to draw the details, as well as count the tiles one by one.

An example of a tile layout in a bathroom

On the prepared plan, on the same scale, draw the tile, painting it with the appropriate colors. So it will be possible to more accurately imagine how everything will look, test several layout options - in horizontal stripes, vertical stripes, shifting them, making them wider / narrower / higher, etc.

When you decide exactly how you want to lay out the bathroom (in terms of the arrangement of different colors, the width of the stripes and other nuances), you will need to redraw the selected layout again, but this time taking into account the cutting to size.

The trimmed tiles are positioned in one of the corners

If you start laying tiles just from one of the corners, you will have to cut them in the other. Since large-format tiles are in trend today, these scraps on one side greatly spoil the overall impression. Therefore, it is laid out relative to the center of the wall, "accelerating" the trim in two corners.The result is a symmetrical picture, which looks much better.

Only here there are nuances. For the wall to look normal, the clipping width must be more than half. Too narrow inserts look scanty. This is controlled by the position: along the center line, you can place a seam or the middle of a tile. Draw so that only narrow stripes are not in the corners.

Redraw the chosen styling method with these points in mind. Then you count the amount, taking into account those that need to be cut. Yes, there will be more tiles, but the look of your bathroom is much more attractive.

One of the important points when decorating a bathroom with tiles is how to decorate the front of the bathtub. Most often, it is also pasted over with tiles (another option is to sheathe it with plastic panels). But you can't just hang it, you need a foundation. It is made either from brick (better than ceramic, not silicate, although it is cheaper) or from moisture-resistant drywall.

From both materials, you can lay out the wall even or rounded. With bricks, everything is more or less clear, just ask and steal along the drawn arc, creating a slightly broken line. She then scares at the plaster.To bend the drywall, it is cut from the inside into strips 3-5 cm wide, depending on the bending radius, the floor is broken with gypsum lines and bent as necessary. Having laid out the base of a suitable shape, it is primed and it is already possible to lay the tiles on the glue in a standard way.This is how they lay out the brick baseThere is one more subtlety when decorating a bathroom: there can be a decent distance between the side of the bathroom and one of the walls - from 5 to 15 cm.This distance must be covered with something, otherwise water will flow down and the greater the distance, the more problematic it is to close it. The way out is to make a shelf of drywall, on which you then glue the tiles. The order of work is as follows:

expose the bathtub strictly horizontally;

transfer the line of the upper edge of the bathroom to the wall (with a square or a ruler);

from the resulting line, you retreat down to the thickness of the planned materials (tile thickness + drywall thickness + board thickness on which all this will be based);

attach a bar or profile along the resulting line (the upper edge coincides with the line drawn);

a wide board (treated with antiseptics) is attached to the profile, which reaches the side of the bathroom;

the gap between the board and the bath is filled with sealant;

a piece of moisture-resistant drywall cut to size is laid on top;

primed;

later, when decorating the walls, we lay out this shelf with tiles cut to size.

Do not forget that some of the tiles may be damaged during cutting and installation, so add 5% to the total. In the same way, count the number of floor tiles, ceiling panels, decorative items.

Prices for plumbing equipment, furniture, finishing materials can be found on the websites of trading bases and stores, but keep in mind that the product you have chosen is not always in stock, so take care of buying it in advance.

It is necessary to carry out repairs in the bathroom in stages, that is, start by dismantling the old finishes - ceiling panels, flooring, wall plastic or ceramics. It seems easier to break than to build, but this is far from the case.

If the tilers tried their best, the tiles from the walls, and even more from the floor, given the quality of modern glue, will not be easy to dismantle. At best, you will need a hammer and a chisel, but most likely a drill or hammer drill.

There are two ways to dismantle: gentle and emergency. In the first case, you carefully soak the grout, scrape it out and carefully, using a hammer and chisel, try to separate each element from the wall. In the second - take a hammer drill and much faster, but with noise and dust, demolish the entire finish in layers.

As you can see, both methods have disadvantages, so experts recommend saving time and effort for repairs by calling a team (or one foreman) for dismantling. Within a few hours, your bathroom will be completely free of old finishes and ready for renovation work.

Home communications usually mean:

sewerage;
water pipes;
electrical wiring;
ventilation.

The ventilation shafts are not touched during the repair, but sometimes the outlet grille is changed, as it must correspond to the surrounding finish.

The most difficult thing will be for the owners of old apartments and houses in which cast-iron pipes are installed. We'll have to completely dismantle them, and construct the sewage system and water supply from plastic pipes. It is necessary to make an eyeliner to all points of water intake - a bath, a washbasin, a washing machine.

To work with pvc pipes, you need special soldering equipment that can be rented.

In order for the water to drain freely, the sewer pipes are laid as low as possible.For this reason, for shower stalls with a low descent, it is necessary to install a podium - the minimum angle of inclination of the drain should be at least 5 degrees.

You should also consider a method for masking pipes: you will have to groove walls or equip drywall boxes. In addition to pipes, I also lay electrical cables into the walls, having previously drawn up a diagram of the location of all electrical appliances, lamps and sockets.

Repairing the bathroom floor begins with a screed device. Its height depends on the method of insulation. If additional thermal insulation is not provided, only the thickness of the tiles should be taken into account - 1-1.5 cm. When installing the "Warm floor" system, the screed resembles a cake, the middle layer of which is the heating system.

In this case, the total thickness of the screed is at least 3-4 cm.

we process the base (concrete slab) with a deep penetration primer;
we install beacons with an interval of 60-80 cm, using the level;
we dilute the sand-cement or concrete mixture with water;
fill the floor areas between the lighthouses with a solution, level them;
at the end, remove the beacons, wipe the irregularities;
cover the floor with plastic foil and wait for it to "ripen".

Insulation materials are used to insulate the floor. Modern mineral wool is not suitable, since it has a property that is not necessary for a bathroom - high hygroscopicity. However, sometimes it is used, carefully insulated from moisture. Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) perfectly resists water.

Usually it is laid on a concrete base in front of the screed device, reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. Elastic and flexible penoplex performs similar functions.

A more comfortable option is the "warm floor" system. It has several versions, here are the main ones:

water - a flexible system of plastic or metal pipes, heated by centralized (boiler) heating;
film - infrared design with electrical wiring and thermostat;
electric - assembled from heating elements powered by electric current.

Any of the listed systems improves the microclimate in the bathroom, while it has a low cost and is easy to fit.

Traditionally, tiles are used to decorate the bathroom - ceramic tiles made of fired clay, but often the process is made cheaper by covering the walls with plastic panels or plaster for painting. Before you do your own bathroom renovation, consider the pros and cons of the listed options.

The variety of tiles allows you to choose any option - from budget to exclusive.

In building supermarkets, you can find monocotture, bicottura, mosaics, monoporose and majolica for interior use, as well as durable porcelain stoneware, which is equally good for finishing a bathroom, and for facing stairs or building façades.

The cost of a tile largely depends on the manufacturer. The highest quality and, accordingly, expensive tiles are produced by Italian brands: Gardenia Orchidea, Fondovalle, Roberto Cavalli, Rex Ceramiche, Vitrex.

The Italians are not inferior unless the Spanish manufacturers. Cheaper tiles are made in Poland, Russia, Belarus, Lithuania.

Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to plaster the walls so that they are perfectly even, and then prime them and cover them with waterproofing mastic. Then they act as standard:

lay the tiles on glue according to the pre-applied markings;
remove excess glue from the seams;
fill the joints with grout.

Along with the familiar classics, seamless tiles are also actively used. All elements of the seamless collection do not have a chamfer at the edges, so the wall covering visually looks monolithic.

A democratic alternative to tiles is plastic panels designed specifically for rooms with high levels of humidity.Along with traditional snow-white products, there are many options in a variety of colors: monochromatic and “stone-like”, with geometric shapes and floristic compositions, with bright ornaments and metallic coating.With plastic panels, walls can be clad in just one evening. If the walls are perfectly flat, then the panels are fixed with liquid nails or staples, but the most acceptable option is mounting on a profile. First, a profile frame (crate) is installed, and the panels are already attached to it, alternately "picking up" them.You may have to cut off part of the product in the corners, so buy 1-2 more pieces. In addition to the panels, you need to buy a guide profile, a plastic corner for masking gaps and fasteners (self-tapping screws).Modern art (decorative) plaster perfectly tolerates humid air, the effects of detergents and chemicals, therefore it is suitable for decorating walls in a bathroom.The main condition for its correct application is perfectly smooth walls. For leveling, do not use ordinary mortar, a sanitizing plaster with waterproofing properties is required.The Venetian is in great demand - smooth plaster with a wide range of shades and a glossy finish. It does not absorb moisture and retains its original appearance for a long time. It can be contrasted with structural plaster, the texture of which traps water droplets.It will look flawless for a while, but the lime or iron impurities in the tap water will sooner or later ruin the aesthetics of the wall covering.The design of the ceiling largely depends on the wall decoration and the overall style concept. Simple plaster is used less and less often, since it limits the possibilities for the lighting device, and, on the contrary, suspended structures are very popular, which can be divided into the following types:Ceilings made of plastic panels are chosen by those who want to save money. The slats and the profile on which they are attached are inexpensive, and the installation of the ceiling takes a minimum of time. Despite the low cost, some types of panels look very attractive - they have a mirror or colored surface, are decorated with gold or silver plating.The shape of the panels also differs: in addition to narrow and wide strips, rectangular and square plastic modules are used.Plasterboard suspended structures allow you to construct multi-tiered ceilings and experiment with the placement of fixtures. It should be remembered that the levels are good where there is a lot of space and there is no possibility of a strong decrease in the ceiling surface.For work in rooms with high humidity, a special moisture-resistant type of drywall is produced, the surface of which is painted green.The stretch vinyl used for stretch structures is also suitable for bathroom ceilings. And although the installation of the coating steals 7-10 cm, the gloss visually "lifts" the ceilings up.Unfortunately, traces of condensation are clearly visible on it, while the matte surface hides dried moisture and goes well with tiles and plastic.When the finishing work is completed, you can install a bath, furniture and connect equipment. As you can see, self-repair is a difficult task that requires certain skills, but, nevertheless, it is interesting and informative!You can watch the filling of the finished refurbished bathtub in this video:

For example, you can refuse the services of a designer and yourself come up with a style in which the renovation will be performed.

You can also save on the construction team and do everything yourself.

But in order for the process to be established and the result achieved, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan of action in advance.

So, you will need:

Come up with a design;
Stock up on the necessary materials and tools;
Make an estimate;
Calculate the exact dimensions of the bathroom and the dimensions of the plumbing;

When choosing a design, you need to pay attention to the area of the room. Owners of a small area should take into account that a small space is less functional.

Image - DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

Light colors in the interior and large mirrors on the walls will visually enlarge the room.

You can refuse to install a bath and give preference to a shower cabin. Thus, there will be more space in the room.

For hygiene products, instead of bulky floor-standing cabinets, you can hang compact hanging cabinets.

After you have decided on the choice of design, you need to draw up an action plan. After all, in order for the process to go on continuously, all actions must be performed sequentially.

Neglecting previous work can significantly affect the final result.

This is a very important stage in the renovation. An unpleasant moment may be that if the calculation is not correct, there may not be enough tiles, panels or other building materials.

Indeed, in the process of cutting and masonry, some of the material can be damaged. To avoid such an incident, you should initially purchase building materials with a margin.

To remove tiles from walls and tiles from the floor, you need to stock up on a hammer and chisel. However, it will be easier to cope with the work with a punch or drill. There are two options for dismantling: gentle and emergency.

The first is done with a hammer and chisel. First you need to soak the grout, and then carefully separate each tile from the wall or floor.

The second option is much faster, but more “dusty” and “noisy”. To do this, you just need to demolish the coating with layers using a perforator.

First of all, a screed device is installed. If the installation of an additional "warm floor" system is not provided, the height of the screed will be 1-1.5 cm. The height will be 3-4 cm if the floors are further insulated.

There are several types of "warm floor" system: water, film and electric. Any of the systems preserves the microclimate in the bathroom well, at the same time it has a low cost and is easy to install.

Today on the market there are materials for the bathroom for "every wallet". First of all, it all depends on the finances that you have. Most often, tiles are laid on the walls.

But you can choose a more budgetary option, for example, plastic panels or special moisture-resistant plaster. At this stage of the repair, everything depends on your imagination and finances.

When repairing the ceiling, it is worth starting from the materials that were used on the walls. So, for example, elastic vinyl film looks very nice with tiles and plastic.

If you plan to make a ceiling with different transitions, then use a special moisture-resistant drywall. However, there is also a more budgetary option: plastic panels.

After all the finishing work has been completed, you can install the bath, furniture and plumbing. DIY repair is not easy, but very informative. Plus it can save you money and make the design exactly the way you want it!

Many home craftsmen do not know where to start repairs in the bathroom and in what sequence to perform such work. We have prepared detailed and understandable instructions.

The room in which we receive water treatments is considered to be very specific. Serious humidity and temperature fluctuations are constantly present here; water pours in large volumes. It is clear that for the repair of such a room, it is necessary to select special materials that are able to withstand all negative influences. For the decoration of the premises of interest to us, they usually choose:

plastic panels;
porcelain stoneware;
tile (for wall and floor decoration).

These materials have the required qualities, allowing them to be used in a room where there is steam and high temperatures.

Bathroom decoration with plastic panels

In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere conducive to human relaxation. This means that you need to competently think over the design of this room and choose the right color scheme. Most often, bathrooms are performed in pastel colors that do not irritate a person, but, on the contrary, soothe his nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing sanitary ware with products of beige, blue, peach, blue shades.

Thus, bathroom renovation should begin with drawing up a design project, selecting and purchasing the required materials. At this stage, you will need to foresee a lot of little things and purchase a lot of different products, ranging from sewer pipes and glue for installing tiles to valves and a heated towel rail.

Now you need to decide on the scope of work and draw up a plan for their implementation. The sequence for self-repairing a bathroom is usually as follows:

Preparing the room for renovation activities.
Analysis of the condition of the existing flooring and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
Installation of sewer and water pipes.
Laying of electrical wiring.
Plastering of ceiling and wall surfaces, covering them with the selected material and insulation.
Installation of an efficient ventilation system.
Installation of sanitary equipment.

The given sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time on giving the room for water procedures the ideal look.

Where to start preparing the described room for its complete transformation with your own hands? Of course, with the dismantling of all plumbing fixtures installed in it, as well as furniture (if any), lighting fixtures, mirrors and hanging structures. If you're doing a major bathroom renovation, be sure to remove your faucets and faucets. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

Removing old tiles in the bathroom

After that, proceed with the removal of old finishing materials. Remove the cladding from the walls and ceiling, knock down the ceramic tiles (along with the layer of glue that held them), rinse off the paint. If you have a punch, the preparation of the bathroom for a good repair is much faster - feel free to knock down everything that leaves the ceiling and walls. Your task is to get to the brick or panel masonry and floor slabs.

After such actions, it will be necessary to align the walls in the bathroom, which you "bared", and carefully treat them with primers. You should choose them wisely. Do not forget that now there are a variety of primers - bioprotective, hydrophobic, contact, increasing adhesion, strengthening. If you do not know what kind of composition you need to purchase, be sure to consult with a specialist. Real help in this matter is often provided by consultants of good construction stores.

The next step in preparing the bathroom is to revise the floor covering. When the old screed showed itself exclusively from the best side during operation (for example, you forgot to turn off the water, it flowed for a couple of hours, while a drop of moisture did not seep to the neighbors below), leave it. If the tie has clearly served its purpose, it must be removed.

This operation is performed with a perforator with a chisel. These tools can also be used to remove the old cementitious tile backing. An important point! If you will not touch the old screed, it is better to clean the substrate with a grinder equipped with a grinding cup-shaped wheel (usually called a diamond cup). The cost of such a device is quite high. But it will always come in handy for the master who does all the housework with his own hands.

Now you can sweep out all the dirt and debris and proceed directly to the repair work.

It is recommended to make the screed with a solution consisting of the following components:

sifted quartz sand;

cement M500 (you can also take M400);

PVA emulsion;

water.

The ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 4. You need to mix the same amount of water as you do cement. It is most convenient to form a screed with your own hands using marker beacons. The mixture is applied in a layer of about 4–5 cm, rubbed with a building rule, after which it must be carefully smoothed with a polyurethane foam or stainless steel polisher to an ideal state (no cracks, swells and other defects). Very important! A made screed based on sand and cement must not be touched for 40 days. During this time, no work in the bathroom must be performed. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

Create a new concrete floor screed

Waterproofing a room with high humidity is best done with polyester or aquaizol materials. Do not use ordinary waterproof film for this purpose. Lay the waterproofing material as carefully as possible, the joints between its individual parts are connected in two ways:

Building hairdryer.
By gluing mastic with a special composition.

The waterproofing is installed on the walls by 25-30 centimeters. Note that in the corners of the room, the presence of cuts in the moisture-proof film is not allowed. Better fold the insulating material, make folds. But never cut the film.

It is almost impossible to see open sewer pipelines in apartments these days. Such communications spoil the whole look of the bathroom, nullify all the tricks of the designers. Shtrob the walls in order to hide the pipes is also not an option. This procedure is very tiring, dusty and really time-consuming. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

Installation of piping in the bathroom

For this reason, sewer pipes are now most often installed according to a special technique - they are launched along the bottom in a bundle, and then masked with galvanized slopes. The latter can then be easily glued with silicone tiles (facing). The silicone composition is used for fixing the slope from the floor surface and to the wall.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to carry out repairs in the bathroom at all without shading. In any case, you will need to make two grooves for cases when a separate mixer is installed on the washbasin, or one if a common mixer is used. One thing calms down - the length of the strobes will be minimal. In addition, they are positioned vertically. It is relatively easy to punch them with your own hands, which cannot be said about horizontal strobes.

For a heated towel rail, it is advisable to install metal-plastic pipes. You shouldn't even look for other options these days. Such tubular products are ideal for use. They can be easily folded down and sloped using transition fittings.

But for the cold water supply system in the bathroom, polypropylene pipes (PPN) are more suitable. They are easily welded into a solid and reliable monolithic structure, and then hidden in the walls. It should be said right away that it is advisable to purchase fittings for such pipes from solid plastic. It is impractical to use metal reinforcement elements. They can leak at any time. But the sealed plastic will never let water through.

The installation of the pipeline should begin with the installation of sewer pipes. Using sealant and seals, you will spend no more than one day assembling them. After that, feel free to install polypropylene products for cold water and solder them. Be sure to blow out the pipes in the grooves with polyurethane foam. This will ensure that the pipeline does not fog up. And the heat loss in this case will be significantly reduced. Follow the recommended piping sequence and your bathroom repairs will go faster.

Electrical wiring is carried out with a cable protected by a double insulating layer.It is desirable to place the wire in a metal or plastic corrugation. It is better to use a metal sheath as it shields the wiring perfectly.

Having dealt with the communications, proceed to the processing of wall surfaces. Plastering of the walls is carried out in two compositions - starting (it has increased tenacity) and finishing. The latter perfectly levels the treated surface. Plastering is necessary from the ceiling to the floor. Image - DIY bathroom renovation with tiles

The following stages of repair work:

Ceiling insulation and cladding. Thermal insulation is recommended to be performed in the form of a cake, consisting of two glass-magnesium sheets and a heater placed between them. The cladding can be made with clapboard (plastic) or laminated boards, which are fixed to the ceiling with construction silicone or strong assembly glue.
Laying tiles on the floor. The sequence of the operation is as follows - mount the products with glue, starting from the door, tap each tile with a hammer (rubber). All trimmed rows should be installed last and after the adhesive under the remaining rows has completely hardened.
Wall covering. It is produced with plastic panels, porcelain stoneware, ordinary tiles.

Video (click to play).

That, in principle, is the whole step-by-step plan for self-repairing a bathroom. You just need to start implementing it and after a while enjoy the new look of your room for water treatments.