Do-it-yourself bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

In detail: do-it-yourself bathroom repair with bulk acrylic from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

There is nothing eternal in the sublunary world, this statement also applies to products such as sanitary containers called bathtubs. Their surface becomes dirty yellow, often covered with a network of cracks and takes on an unpresentable appearance. It is extremely unpleasant to use such a font, and it becomes impossible to remove the result of long-term operation by thorough washing even with the use of the most aggressive detergents. Contamination is firmly retained in a multitude of microdamages in the enamel layer, from where it is almost impossible to remove them. The restoration of baths with liquid acrylic in this state becomes inevitable.

Of course, you can replace the font with a new one, but this event, in terms of labor and money costs, is tantamount to a full-fledged repair. To avoid it, there is only one radical way - the restoration of baths with liquid acrylic.

A common household name for a group of polymeric materials based on methacrylic and acrylic acids with the use of a number of polymer additives to give the compositions the desired properties.

The material has been known for over 70 years under the name polymethyl methacrylate, was developed to replace glass and is known as plexiglass. With the introduction of various additives into the composition, it is widely used for the production of sanitary ware, including artificial stone. The material is lightweight, durable, well processed.

There are many ways to restore a worn-out bathtub surface, including painting the walls with special paints. However, the best results are obtained by using acrylic. Provided the surface is properly prepared, acrylic exhibits high adhesion to metal surfaces and forms a durable protective layer with a thickness of 2 - 8 mm.

Video (click to play).

This is the most important step in a bathtub restoration. The main task of such an operation is to clean the inner surface of the font as much as possible before applying a protective coating, this is done as follows:

Acrylic bathtub coating is sold in a two-component composition - a base agent and a hardener. Mixing is done immediately before use, when the bath is completely ready for use. This is due to the limitation of the time the mixture is suitable for work. Almost complete polymerization occurs within 40-50 minutes, after which the composition thickens to the point of complete impossibility of its use.

Stirring of the composition should be done with a wooden stirrer with a circular cross-section, taking into account that the uniformity of the substance determines the final quality of the restoration. If desired, you can use an electric drill with a stirring attachment, but you need to set the minimum speed on the device. Otherwise, the mixture may end up on the walls of the room, and not on the object being restored.

Acrylic compositions allow the use of tinting. Such additives, precisely for this application, have been developed and produced for their intended purpose. What tinting can be used is indicated on the packaging with an acrylic composition. The only limitation is the amount of additive - it should not be more than 3% of the total mass of the material. Categorically! Solvents must not be added to the acrylic coating, this leads to instant deterioration of the composition.

Before starting the coating, you need to perform several preparatory steps:

turn off the plumbing fixtures, install a flat vessel under the drain hole to collect the flowing composition;
on the walls to which the bathtub adjoins, you need to stick a strip of construction tape;
cover the floor with the hanging walls of the bathtub with newspapers or plastic wrap.

Only after completing these operations can you start mixing and applying the composition.

It is most convenient to apply it with a ladle with a spout, pouring out the composition with a uniform string, starting from the highest point of the vessel.

It is desirable that the amount of mixture in the jet allows the walls to be coated from top to bottom in one pass. It is better to give a little more composition, the excess will drain through the drain hole into a pre-installed container. When re-pouring onto uncovered areas, embossed smudges may form. It is unacceptable to level possible irregularities with a spatula, while an irreparable defect of the protective layer is formed.

When the walls of the font and its bottom are completely covered with the composition, the work can be considered finished. The time for complete polymerization of the composition is indicated on the packaging of the material and is usually about 3 hours.

At the end of the work, you need to turn off the light in the bathroom and inspect the coating layer in the light of an ultraviolet or LED source. This will help to identify fibers, hairs or debris that have accidentally got into the mixture or on the surface. They must be removed immediately.

During drying, you must tightly close the door to the bathroom and do not enter it during the entire drying process in order to avoid dust entering the room, which can spoil the restored surface.

At the end of the final polymerization time, it is necessary to carefully cut off unnecessary beads, and then install plumbing fixtures. At the same time, do not pinch the joints in order to avoid cutting through the acrylic layer.

Acrylic bathtub restoration has a number of advantages:

the material in a liquid state qualitatively fills all irregularities and cracks on the restored surface, including through violations of the integrity of the enamel coating. In this case, it is advisable to first seal deep damage with a putty used for body work. Carefully grind the place of repair with an emery cloth (at the stage of surface preparation);
acrylic is pleasant to touch, its surface does not slip underfoot, which is very important for sanitary ware;
the material has low thermal conductivity;
the acrylic coating is wear-resistant, including shock loads;
prevents the development of pathogenic bacteria on the surface;

The restoration of a cast-iron bath at home is especially shown, since the dismantling and removal of such a product is accompanied by significant costs, and the strength characteristics of the main material are sufficient for operation for more than one generation.

The result of the restoration with liquid acrylic appears in the form of a new durable surface with antiseptic properties.

Cleaning of the repaired surface should be carried out without the use of cleaning agents that contain abrasive additives or chemically active substances. It is advisable to wipe the clean surface dry with a soft cloth.

In a bath with an acrylic surface, do not soak laundry before washing, and also take salt baths, especially with colored salts.

A fairly popular option for restoring the font is the installation of acrylic inserts. This is the option for performing work that you cannot recommend for doing it yourself. The process can be described in the following sequence:

measuring the bowl at the place of its installation;
production of an acrylic insert according to measurements on special equipment in a developed production environment;
its delivery to the address;
installation of the liner in the bath bowl, sealing with special compounds;
connection of sanitary fittings for new bowl sizes.

The shelf life of the liners is determined at 20 years.But the cycle of use of sealants and adhesives used when installing the product is 3-4 times less. As a result, moisture penetrates between the bathtub and the liner, putrefactive processes develop with the release of corresponding odors.

The prices for inserts are declared by various contractors in the amount of 4-5 thousand rubles. But it often happens that this price does not include the invitation of the measurer or other work, as a result of which the final price of the issue turns out to be significantly higher. As a result, it is approaching the cost of completely replacing the font with a new one, since, among other things, it is necessary to dismantle part of the tiled walls.

One of the main questions is how much will it cost? The market offers a variety of options for purchasing liquid acrylic. First of all - about the completeness of the sale.

The minimum set of acrylic and hardener: for 1 package they ask from 1700 to 1900 rubles. Improved options (according to the seller - using nanoparticles) are somewhat more expensive when purchased in bulk.

However, it is more convenient to purchase repair kits, which include both surface preparation means and plumbing for the bath after repair. In the widest configuration, such a set can be purchased for 3000 rubles. When doing work on your own at home, this completeness seems to be the most preferable - you will not need to run to the store for every little thing.Restoration of a hot tub with liquid acrylic allows you to improve living conditions in a house or apartment in the shortest possible time, without resorting to capital costs for repair work. The simplicity of execution allows you to make them yourself with a satisfactory quality. After reading this article, anyone can safely get to work and be confident of success.It is surprising that the bathroom, traditionally associated with impeccable cleanliness and freshness, is the dirtiest place in an apartment or house. Since plumbing fixtures are used several times every day, they are subject to increased wear and tear and heavy pollution.This fate will not escape the bath, which after 2-3 years of operation loses its glossy shine, cleanliness and smoothness, becomes covered with cracks, turns yellow. To restore the original appearance to the product without replacing it, the baths are restored with liquid acrylic. In this article, we will explain what a "pouring bath" is and how it differs from re-enameling.The restoration of the bath with liquid acrylic is performed when the surface of the sanitary ware becomes rough, yellow, dull, covered with a mesh of small cracks, but has no through holes. The process consists of replacing the original enamel coating with a more durable and resistant acrylic. Liquid acrylic for baths is a snow-white polymer with a liquid, viscous consistency, which, after hardening, becomes smooth and shiny. There are 2 types of compounds used to restore bathtubs: One-component. One-component acrylic is a ready-to-use paint and varnish coating containing a large amount of non-volatile components. Image - DIY bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

Important! It is possible to restore a bathtub with the help of liquid acrylic or glass, consisting of acrylic from epoxy resin, "Epoxin", "Plastall". The color of the composition can be pressed with tinting paste, which is the third component of the mixture for restoring plumbing products with acrylic with your own hands.

In the past, repairs to old plumbing fixtures made of cast iron or steel were done by re-enamelling the product at home. However, the enamel applied in this way is unstable and brittle. The acrylic bathtub has a higher strength quality and service life. The advantages of this method of restoring the appearance of the bowl are: Durability.Acrylic coating, when applied correctly, retains whiteness, glossy shine and smoothness for more than 15 years, which is 3-4 times longer than the most durable enamel. Note! A pouring bath made of liquid acrylic is highly hygienic, since the smooth, non-porous surface of this polymer does not absorb dirt, but repels it, making it easier to care for the product. This property of the acrylic coating is called the "self-cleaning effect".

Recently, many experienced craftsmen have recommended not buying new plumbing equipment, but using bulk baths with liquid acrylic, because they can restore cast iron and steel products, the damage of which is superficial, but not through. In order for the restoration result to be durable and stable, it is necessary to carefully prepare the restored bathtub for work using the following technology: First of all, the surface of the bath is cleaned with a strong alkaline detergent and then thoroughly rinsed with warm water. Image - DIY bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

Please note that the quality of the final result of painting a plumbing fixture with liquid acrylic directly depends on the thoroughness of adherence to the preparation technology. More than 80% of the time spent on the bath restoration process is spent in the preparatory phase of the work.After completing the preparatory stage for the restoration of the bath, you can start applying liquid acrylic. This polymer can be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun, but the best results are obtained with the pouring method. The technology of pouring a bath with a compound is as follows: Before you cover the bath with acrylic, you need to properly prepare the mixture. To do this, it is necessary that the components of the compound settle for 1-2 hours at room temperature. Image - DIY bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

It is important to follow the drying technology of liquid acrylic so that the result lasts longer. The filling bath hardens for 36-48 hours, so the first day after pouring it is better not to even open the door to the bathroom, so that the dust does not settle on the still soft acrylic. On the second day, you can enter the room, but it is allowed to use the water in the bowl after two days.

Baths, due to constant use, quickly become inadequate. Scratches, chips, and discoloration on the surface make it look unsightly, old and dirty. A full bath replacement can turn into a repair and replacement of plumbing, which implies significant financial costs. Image - DIY bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

Do-it-yourself acrylic bathtub

There are a couple of ways that you can update the look of a product without huge financial investments: special inserts and restoration of the bath cover with liquid acrylic or enamel.

Enamel application is a complex and time-consuming process that requires experience and skill. Therefore, most often, preference is given to acrylic coating. It is acrylic that is recognized as the simplest and most reliable material, the use of which during restoration work does not require knowledge and the presence of special tools.

Content of step-by-step instructions:

For the restoration of the bathtub coating, two types of acrylic-based material are most often used: liquid acrylic (snow-white paintwork with a high mass of non-volatile components) and stacril (acrylic + epoxy enamel).

The material can be ready-to-use or consisting of 2 components that need to be mixed together. When combined, these components form a composition that, when solidified, differs in strength and resistance to stress and temperature changes. There are several popular brands of acrylic coating "Epoxin", "Plastall", "Stakril".

Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on a bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years, with the condition of correct and gentle use.

Liquid acrylic in the form of a coating on the bath retains its appearance and protective properties for more than 14 years

The finished material does not thicken, spreads in an even layer, no air bubbles form in its thickness

Many experts prefer the two-component material "Stakril" and its analogs mentioned above. Unlike cheaper pouring bath materials that have appeared on the market, it has many advantages.

The bathtub remains snow-white throughout the entire service life.
No sagging during application and the formation of an even protective layer during restoration work.
No bubbles or unevenness.
Good mixing of ingredients.

Add the hardener that comes with the kit to Stakril and stir it thoroughly for 10 minutes

Acrylic and hardener.
A stick for mixing the components of the coating.
Solvent.
Rubber or plastic spatula.
Grinder or drill for bath preparation. The attachments must be equipped with sandpaper discs.
Oxalic acid for removing rust (if the bath is damaged by corrosion).
Automotive filler in case of large chips on the surface.

Before you ennoble the bath, you need to very carefully prepare its surface. If this is not done, the acrylic coating will spread unevenly and all chips and depressions will be visible. If there is rust and it is not removed before the restoration of the bathtub, after a while it will "lift" the coating and show through on the walls.

Bathtub surface treatment

The first stage of the preparatory work is the removal of the old coating. If the bathtub is very old and its inner walls are significantly damaged, then the old layer of enamel should be completely removed.

To do this, using a grinder or a drill with a nozzle, you need to carefully grind every centimeter of the bath. During this work, a lot of dust can form, it is advisable to protect the respiratory organs during this work.

If the damage on the old coating is minor, then you can simply sand it off with sandpaper.

The second stage of the preparatory work is cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding. It is washed off with warm water, carefully examined for the remaining old enamel, not polished chips, rust spots. If everything is in order, they begin to degrease the surface, if not, continue the preparation.

The second stage of the preparatory work - cleaning the surface of the bath from dust during grinding

Experts recommend repairing deep chips and scratches with automotive filler, this will reduce the work with a sander or drill. After application, the putty is cleaned with fine-grained emery paper.

Degreasing is carried out using a solvent. If there is no such substance, then ordinary soda can be used. Several packs of soda are diluted in warm water to a puree consistency and applied to the inner walls of the bath. Every centimeter of the surface must be treated, otherwise liquid acrylic in untreated places may form an air bubble and chip during operation.

The next step is to heat the bath with hot water. To do this, you need to take a full bath of the hottest liquid from the tap and wait half an hour. Then the water is drained, the surface of the bath is quickly wiped off with an absolutely clean cloth with a lint-free surface.

The bath must be completely dry before pouring.

Then the water drains are dismantled. A container is placed under the lower one, into which the remnants of acrylic will be drained, under the upper one is covered with cellophane, which protects the floor from drops of material. It is also recommended to cover the entire floor around the bathtub to avoid damaging its appearance with white drops of acrylic coating.

Then the water drains are dismantled

Before mixing the components, it is important to keep them indoors for several hours. Mix acrylic and hardener gradually, in small doses.After thorough mixing, the mixture should stand for 15-20 minutes. Only after curing can the material be applied.

The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first.

The rims of the bathtub, which border the wall, are poured first. You need to pour it gently, in a small stream. Use a trowel to carefully level the material against the wall. Then proceed to the outer side. It is important to cast so that the acrylic does not drip to the floor. In this case, the flowing material should reach approximately to the middle of the walls of the bath.

Then proceed to the outer side

When working, you need to focus on ensuring that acrylic is applied to the walls in an even layer, 3-5 mm. After the first round of pouring, you should proceed to the second. Acrylic is poured in the same thin stream onto the walls of the bath along the perimeter. You need to pour the material until it covers the entire bath.

In order to level the sagging at the bottom of the container, you can use a spatula to run along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements, achieving an even distribution of the material. This must be done carefully, without touching the bottom of the container. If, nevertheless, there are influences and irregularities, do not worry: the composition will even out itself during the drying process, and the excess acrylic will drain into a special container under the lower drain.

To smooth out the beads at the bottom of the tank, you can use a spatula to draw along the bottom of the bath in zigzag movements.

After finishing the walls, the bath will dry after 36 hours. More information on these material properties can be found in the instructions.

But experts recommend starting to use the bath in a few days after the restoration - this will extend the life of the coating.

The last stage of work is the connection of plumbing communications to the updated bath.

Experts recommend starting to use the bath a few days after restoration.

Before starting work, it is required to thoroughly mix the acrylic in a bucket. Pay special attention to the bottom and walls. Thus, the material becomes homogeneous, with a uniform consistency.

Do not heat liquid acrylic, as its viscosity decreases. This can lead to the fact that all the material simply flows down and a very thin layer remains on the walls. Use the material at room temperature, after keeping it indoors for 5-6 hours.

If you want to change the color of the bath, you can use tinting paste. This material is added during the mixing of the components. It is important to know that the amount of color should not exceed 4% of the total mass of liquid acrylic. This will help to avoid changes in the strength characteristics of the coating. The color of the bath will be muted when adding color.

Despite the fact that acrylic coating positions itself as strong and durable, it can be damaged if not properly maintained. It is strictly prohibited to use acids, abrasive powders, metal sponges for cleaning the bathroom. These cleaners will quickly leave deep scratches and ruin the finish.To clean a refurbished bathtub, special liquid acrylic products are suitable, which can be found in any household chemical store. They will not only keep the surface intact, but also enhance the mirror shine. Image - DIY bathroom repair with bulk acrylic

Let your new bathtub delight you as long as possible!

A couple of decades ago, no one could have imagined that there would be such methods of restoring baths at home, which would return them to an almost original appearance.Fortunately, modern polymer-based technologies are not capable of doing that either.