Do-it-yourself vanos m52 repair

Repair kit installation procedure Single Vanos for M50TU and M52 motors is not very difficult and does not require special skills in engine repair. For installation, it is desirable to have some special tools to facilitate the procedure, but in the absence of them, repair is quite possible. The two most important points in this procedure: correctly set the timing phases and correctly install the vanos on the motor after repair. How to do it all correctly is described below. If you doubt your abilities, we recommend that you contact the service station, which will be able to perform this procedure using the instructions given.

Vanos itself is located in front of the cylinder head (cylinder head). In order to get to it and dismantle it to install the repair kit, you must remove the valve cover and remove the thermal coupling. These procedures are well described in the BMW TIS.

Special tool

To install a vanos repair kit on M50TU and M52 motors, it is advisable to have special dealer tools, as in the photo above: a camshaft lock (11-3-240), a flywheel lock (11-2-300), a sprocket scrolling tool (11-5-490 ), a chain tensioner lock (11-3-292) or just a nail of a suitable diameter.

But even in their absence, the installation of a repair kit is quite possible, but you have to sweat when installing the vanos in place in order to correctly set the timing phase (see TIS BMW).

Removing Vanos

Having removed the valve cover, we need to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to TDC, so that the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover match.

The motor can be scrolled with a wrench or head 22 clockwise.

The camshaft cams will be approximately in this position.

The top plane of the exhaust camshaft square will be parallel to the plane of the cylinder head.

Check the alignment of the labels.

After the marks have coincided, you need to fix the handwheel in this position using a special tool (you can use a conventional drill of a suitable diameter and length).

The latch hole is located on the left side of the engine under the starter motor. First remove the plastic cap with a screwdriver.

Install the camshaft retainer.

Unscrew the valve on the vanos hydraulic hose (key 19). Note: Replace the two sealing washers when reassembling.

Remove the lifting eye of the motor by unscrewing it from the head of the block.

Disconnect the vanos solenoid electrical connector. To do this, press down on the metal clip and pull on the connector.

Remove the retaining washers with fine nose pliers. Pull out the cable cover.

M52 only: Unscrew the vacuum pipe.

Lower the tube so that it does not interfere with the removal of the vanos.

Unscrew the two plugs in the vanos body to access the bolts securing the timing sprocket (key 19).

Place a rag or paper towel between the sprocket and the vanos body to avoid accidentally dropping the bolts.

Unscrew the 4 screws securing the sprocket (Torx E-10).

Press the chain tensioner pad in order to press it in, insert the retainer into the hole (you can use a nail of a suitable diameter).

Unscrew the 6 nuts securing the vanos to the motor head.

Cover the A / C and alternator belts with a paper towel to avoid getting oil on them. We remove the vanos from the engine. To do this, install the special tool (11-5-490) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket, pull the vanos forward towards the radiator while turning the sprocket clockwise with the tool. Please note that the sprocket must be unscrewed from the camshaft as indicated above for the instructions. In the absence of a special tool, you can gently turn the sprocket using a screwdriver inserted into the timing chain.

We disassemble vanos and diagnose it:

Remove the bolts securing the vanos cylinder cover to the body.

Remove the cover together with the piston and helical gear from the body.

Now you can diagnose and inspect the unit. First, visually inspect the piston for cracks or chips. Next, you can diagnose the tightness of the assembly. To do this, insert the piston into the cylinder and move it along the working stroke. Remember how easily the piston moves in the cylinder with the old O-rings.

Next, let's proceed to diagnostics of the bearing in the vanos piston.

Check for backlash, as shown in the photo above: wiggle the helical gear in different planes. Only the presence of a radial play is allowed, which is necessary for the correct functioning of the unit. Axial play is not allowed and means that the bearing is loose and needs to be repaired.

Install the anti-backlash washer from the repair kit

Attention! Washer installation must be done prior to installing new O-rings.

Fix the piston in a vise as shown in the photo above. Use special soft sponges or wooden spacers. Be extremely careful not to damage the piston surface or overtighten the vice, as the piston is very fragile.

We unscrew the vanos piston cover with a head of 18 (in some motors there may be a head of 17). The thread is ordinary, you need to unscrew it counterclockwise.

Having unscrewed the cover, we put the piston in an upright position and fix it in a vice.

Next, take out the needle bearing.

We unscrew the bearing bolt. Attention . There is a left-hand thread. Unscrew clockwise (Use Torx T30 sprocket).

We take out the central bearing race.

Remove the piston from the gear axis.

Then remove the outer bearing washer.

Thoroughly clean the bearing parts with a brake disc cleaner (thinner or benzine).

Insert the bottom washer into the piston.

Reinstall the anti-play washer from the repair kit.

Reassemble the bearing parts in reverse order. Install the bolt with the Torx T30 sprocket. Attention! Left hand thread! Screw the bolt counterclockwise! (tightening force 8Nm).

Replace the upper bearing and washer.

Replace the piston cover.

Secure the piston body in a vise.

Tighten the piston nut. Do not tighten to the final torque, as you may have to disassemble the bearing again to fit.

Sometimes the nut of the piston dial bearing is tightened so tightly that when unscrewed (especially with a head with a high engagement) it can tear off its edges.

We manufacture new vanos piston nuts to replace the damaged one. The photo shows an old (damaged nut) and a new one.

Now we need to check for the presence of the required radial play. Then rotate the piston axially, thereby checking the rolling resistance of the bearing. After installing a new washer, the piston should rotate on the bearing without much resistance. If the bearing is very “tightened”, then it is imperative to adjust the bearing center race (see “Adjusting Tightened Bearing” below). If the piston still has an axial play and it is very easy to rotate on the bearing, then you need to adjust the installed washer from the repair kit (see below "Fitting a loose bearing").

Fitting a Tightened Bearing:

Disassemble the bearing again and remove the center race (the washer that is between the two needle bearings).

Place a sheet of sandpaper (P400) on a hard and level surface and sand the washer on both sides. Grind the washer evenly on sandpaper for a couple of minutes, clean it, assemble the bearing and again check how the bearing turns. If necessary, repeat the trimming procedure until the bearing spins without much resistance.

Loose bearing fit:

Disassemble the bearing again and remove the outer washer (the washer that was installed from the repair kit).

Place a sheet of sandpaper (P250-P400) on a hard and level surface and sand the washer on both sides. Grind the washer evenly on sandpaper for a couple of minutes, clean it, reassemble the bearing and again check the axial play and whether the bearing is pinched during torsion.If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure until the axial play disappears, but the bearing should rotate without much resistance.

When the fit is achieved, tighten the bearing cap to 40 Nm.

Replacing the O-rings from the repair kit

Having eliminated the vanos bearing play, you can start installing new sealing rings.

Carefully cut the old o-rings with a suitable cutting tool. Be extremely careful not to damage the working surface of the piston!

After you have cut and removed all the o-rings, wipe the piston with a paper towel and clean the ring groove well.

Install the rubber ring into the groove first.

Check that the rubber ring (it has a circular cross-section) is not twisted in its place.

If the installation is carried out at an air temperature below 20 degrees Celsius, then it is necessary to put the Teflon ring in warm water (40-50C) for a couple of minutes to make it elastic. Then wipe the ring dry and install.

Pull the Teflon ring gently and slowly from one end of the piston to the other.

Lubricate the housing cylinder and the piston itself with new rings well with engine oil. Insert the piston into the cylinder at an angle of approximately 30 degrees and rotate it into the cylinder.

Rotate the piston in the cylinder several times and move it up and down so that the ring takes the shape of a cylinder. Repeat this operation until the Teflon ring stops turning in its groove.

Press the piston to its lowest position and let it stand for 2-3 minutes.

Then remove the piston. The ring has acquired the desired shape.

Reinstall the piston. Press the plunger in completely. Tighten 5 screws (torque 10 Nm).

Installing Vanos

Clean all parts and surfaces from oil and dirt residues. Install a new gasket.

Install the special tool onto the sprocket. Scroll the sprockets clockwise until they stop. Attention! This operation is indispensable for the correct installation of the vanos.

Attention! The next installation step is very important: before installing the vanos on the motor, press the splined shaft with the piston into the housing. Install the vanos body onto the pins of the block head. Insert the splined shaft into the intake sprocket by twisting it slightly.

In order for the spline shaft to fully enter the sprocket, it is necessary to turn the exhaust sprocket counterclockwise and at the same time press the vanos against the motor. Very important! So that the splined shaft goes into the sprocket in the extreme right position of the sprocket. This will give the correct range to adjust the phases while the vanos is running.

Screw the vanos to the motor. Tightening torque for nuts 8 Nm.

Remove the upper timing chain tensioner retainer.

Reinstall the 4 bolts securing the exhaust sprocket to the camshaft. Tighten the bolts crosswise (Torx E-10) with a torque of 20 Nm.

Replace the plugs on the vanos body.

Reinstall the wiring cover and install the clips with fine nose pliers.

For M52: Install the vacuum pipe.

Connect the electrical connector of the vanos solenoid.

Screw on the motor loop.

Screw on the hydraulic hose using new sealing washers (19mm wrench).

Remove the tool for fixing the camshafts, remove the flywheel retainer, reassemble everything in reverse order using BMW TIS. Be sure to check that there are no oil residues on the belts and rubber hoses.

Be sure to check the oil level after assembly!

It is important to know that the O-rings should be run in approximately 300 km in the urban cycle. Try not to load the engine with high revs and active driving during the break-in period.

Enjoy the smooth running of your motor.

Hello everyone again! I shot and put vanos on m50.I read the instructions all that I found, but there was a misunderstanding. Here we take a pribluda to rotate the gears (a screwdriver :), turn the chain as “forward” as possible, ie towards the inlet. We attach the vanos to the engine by pushing the piston into it. We begin to turn the gears "back" while pushing the vanos. He clings to the teeth and begins to sink into them. And then he fell into place, the piston is still depressed. But you can continue to turn the gears, and then the vanos piston will begin to stretch, and the toothed cup will go even deeper into the intake camshaft gear. In what position should the bolts on the exhaust shaft gear be tightened? With a recessed or a pop-out piston?

The most incomprehensible thing is that I set myself “as it was” with a recessed piston, and on the other wheelbarrow, where I helped to remove and put the vanos, we seemed to tighten the chain all the way, i.e. with an extended vanos piston. And the owner of this car claims that it has become better to go.

TIS is great, I read it. They write there

“Turn chain and sprockets counterclockwise with special tool 11 5 490.”

"Turn the chain with the sprockets by hand in a counterclockwise direction."

Crank the chain with sprockets - all the way? Or not all the way? And this is an instruction about the M52, it works in a similar way, however, the phases of the camshafts may differ.

really is written ambiguously, but people in the topic about the m50 say that the camshaft squares should be parallel with the recessed piston. and when I put new seals on the piston, I barely pushed it into the cylinder, so it seems to me that pulling it out by the camshaft sprocket would be problematic.

Here is a pictorial picture - the piston is extended from above (the chain is turned “back” until it stops), from the bottom - the piston is retracted.

It may be problematic with new seals, but if the seals are already ground in, the teeth of the gears should be properly lubricated before installation and use a tool to turn the camshaft gears - in my opinion, the piston pulls out without problems.

During the entire installation and assembly, the piston must be depressed.

Hmm, it turns out that they put everything with a depressed piston.

Maybe someone on the same engine tried to do this and that?

after installation, remove the vanos hose and blow it with a compressor, first give 12 v to the valve. you will see your move.

The move will be in both cases. Only it will be either between “earlier” and “0” or between “0” and “later”. The valve, one must think, will not bend in both cases, but it should work in different ways.

This annoys me so much, because since the moment of purchase, my car has an unstable idle speed, and I have already exhausted all possible measures to combat it, and this problem is widespread.

Judging by this cart about M52

.. the vanos must be “off” (piston retracted) when the shafts are on the retainers. We will assume that this also applies to the M50.

Well, logically think - everything is correct, at rest he is at zero, when he presses the oil he leaves.

and again about the main thing - I insert the vanos, scrolling so that the spline shaft engages with the key on the star, everything - the vanos is in place. can already be screwed on. But some twist even further until the piston comes out of the vanos and goes inside. Who is right?

before inserting the vanos, we expose the shafts, fix. Vanos itself - the piston is fully inserted into it. (we make sure that he does not get out in the process). turn the star clockwise from the front until it stops (here we also make sure that the stop is the end of the slot in the star and not a screwed-in bolt in the neighboring star) put the vanos and press it down, helping to move the chain back a little counterclockwise with a key, but as little as possible so that it just goes in. all!. insert the fur tensioner, tighten the star.

Post has been editedAlco: 18 June 2016 - 14:03

and again about the main thing - I insert the vanos, scrolling so that the spline shaft engages with the key on the star, everything - the vanos is in place. can already be screwed on. But some twist even further until the piston comes out of the vanos and goes inside. Who is right?

I decided to share my practice of repairing this wonderful unit

For several months now I was worried about the rattling in the VANOS area. The symptoms were as follows:

1. During the twentieth century, a dull buzz was heard in the vanos area.Starting from 1700-1800 rpm, the sound became clear and similar to the rattling of plastic.
2. Diagnostics gave the error "Vanos is mechanically clamped / crushed"
3. The car accelerated worse than the 318i. There was a clear lack of normal traction at low revs (up to 3000 rpm)

After he took up the replacement of the O-rings.

Personally, I didn't cut the rings. He lifted it up with a needle and carefully removed it. I cleaned the dimple, put the new rings in place in the reverse order (carefully so that the rings were not upside down), lubricated with engine oil, and inserted the updated piston into place at an angle of 30 degrees. about. He left it for a couple of minutes, took it out, looked that everything was normal, and put it back in with more ease, put everything into place. I recommend that you immediately erase the errors associated with the operation of the engine, so that the updated unit immediately starts working normally.
After the repair, oddly enough (I am very skeptical about everything NOT factory), it was impossible not to notice that: 1. The rattling disappeared. 2. The revs are recruited smoothly and quickly both on the spot and while driving! During acceleration, not sickly presses in the flesh up to 4 gears. As the developer promises, you need to drive about 320 km in city mode for the repair to give a full result - up to 10 liters of fuel economy with the same driving style, good traction at low speeds up to 3000 rpm.
Read more about the entire repair process on the Beisan Systems website.

When you insert the vanos “automatically” the shafts are not exposed. It's just that you first brought vanos to the very maximum and then to the very minimum. the stars are spinning. And then when you start tightening the shafts previously exposed by the ruler, the exhaust shaft can go away, so that this does not happen, there is a special profit that acts simultaneously as a shaft lock and a horizon, as if the ruler is yours.
In general, I am not against the ruler, but with the device made by the turner, I paid 1500 for everything, it goes faster and more reliably.

Added after 1 minute
Yes, and it is not convenient to move vanos without a special handle .. How can you move it with pasatizha or a screwdriver ??

It's like you disassembled everything, took off the boss, replaced the gasket, replaced the chains, I had to cut the bolts in the cylinder head, cut everything, put it out, and you call a tow truck and take it to the service, like put out the shafts for me)))

so yes)) still that dry hand
I sold the car to Avito and laid out the whole set for 1.5 k with hands will be taken away

Added after 17 minutes
S3R10US
Shafts will be put on your brother from a series in the service))

The previous owner gave the "Chisso bo beemwe service"

Studs instead of bolts from the "self-tapping" store, they probably took the footage))
as a result, they were immediately pulled out, antifreeze poured out of the cylinder head + thread cutting))
So much for you and "in the service will show you"

Newbie

User
Posts: 25
Registration: 28.7.2006
From: Bryansk

Honorary Citizen

User
Posts: 415
Registration: 1.6.2006
From: Moscow

3500. In principle, they say you can ride. nothing should explode

Master

Messages: 4173
Registration: 7.12.2004
From: Moscow, Maryino

Frequent guest

User
Posts: 89
Registration: 23.12.2004
From: Nizhnevartovsk. KhMAO

Honorary Citizen

User
Posts: 415
Registration: 1.6.2006
From: Moscow

Newbie

User
Posts: 25
Registration: 28.7.2006
From: Bryansk

Honorary Citizen

User
Posts: 415
Registration: 1.6.2006
From: Moscow

Newbie

User
Posts: 25
Registration: 28.7.2006
From: Bryansk

do not get excited! something that goes crazy as it should be. changing the entire vanos is expensive and perhaps unnecessary!
wedges due to the development of Belleville springs (as far as I know) according to the idea: the vanos is disassembled, put in the middle position, the phases are set and everything works fine. I'm honestly talking about replacing vanosak entirely, not when I have not heard!
vanos rem kit is put about once every 100-150 tkm

The question is, in order to find out whether the repair will cost with a repair kit, it is necessary to disassemble the engine, and if (which, as it were, most likely) of this very repair kit. it is not enough to have to wait for the order for vanos 7-10 days.
Speaking of knocks: there is a small, uniform knock, but you can only hear it from the side of the car and, as it were, from under the bottom !?

I will not paint a lot as I am tired of more than two days of assembling the motor. There are plenty of guides for replacing the cylinder head with a BMW. But here's a little about replacing the M50 with the M52.
And so, I made up a few basic questions of answers that may be useful to you.

Question: Will the head go from M52 to the M50 block?
-Yes, it will do

Question: What about vanos on M52 if I have a vanos M50?
-Pump your shafts, beds, front cover and valve

Question: Will the valves fit the M50?
-Not

Question: Will the intake / exhaust manifold fit from the M50
-Yes

Question: Where can I get washers for cylinder head bolts for M52, because they are not there?
-Draw yours from M50, or buy from M20 / M52

Q: Is the valve gasket from M50 suitable?
-Suitable if you cut the guides. Better buy for M52

Question: What about the temperature sensor for the tidy?
If the head is M52 before 1996, then there must be a plug under the second sensor. If not, drill and thread at this location. If you do not want to cut the block, then make a tee for the sensor and install the tube that goes to the stove in the cut, preferably closer to the block. And you throw one more wire from the sensor to ground.

If you have more questions, write in the comments. I'll be glad to help. Also, the list of questions will be updated.

Well, and a short video about the work done

Author Subject: tell me about m50 and m52 (Read 7313 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

[email] [/ email] The EUR steering wheel bolts broke off and the drive strap broke, please tell me, maybe K.

Good afternoon everyone! there was a problem - E92 2008 - in any position of temperature regulation at the pass.

tell me where to find the rear axle gearbox on the e46: help.

Hello everyone)))
In short, I want to get up on the board this winter.
I don’t understand them at all.

: kap: M50 motor E34 body BOSH brains 1991 when replacing the lambda with another, you need to change the code 😕: kap.

guys tell me whoever knows this machine?
But p.

On x5 2000, a radio tape recorder with disks is inserted, and No disk writes that it can be. : aftar.

Webner 01 Aug 2013, 20:37

stefan 01 Aug 2013, 21:06

dimas 01 Aug 2013, 21:21

Alexxxx2 01 Aug 2013, 21:24

zvezdyn 01 Aug 2013, 22:17

Webner 02 Aug 2013, 08:26

Demanstar 02 Aug 2013, 09:23

puller from 16 valve bundle)))

By the way, I also need to do this procedure)))

Some waffle gaskets)))

Demanstar 02 Aug 2013, 10:24

SPECIALLY FOR SHISHKIN
I'm not going to change Vanos, but only the valve stem seals, I'm not up to Feng Shui candles in oil.
Yours is not in oil, I also want it.
You better tell me why your engine is dancing lambada.

And yes, I'm not going to buy a new Lanos, but a Lacetti. Yesterday I was punished by one. I didn't even understand what happened.

Agile Curva Bula

zvezdyn 02 Aug 2013, 13:49

Webner 02 Aug 2013, 20:21

zvezdyn 02 Aug 2013, 21:38

Webner 06 Aug 2013, 23:46

Vova_N 07 Aug 2013, 16:26

How did Vanos replace? O_o everything should be according to the marks, and with the measurement of the gaps.

Was the new Vanos tested for performance, backlash?

Webner 07 Aug 2013, 19:50

Vova_N wrote: And how did you replace Vanos? O_o everything should be according to the marks, and with the measurement of the gaps.

Was the new Vanos tested for performance, backlash?

Seryoga 08 Aug 2013, 08:48

Webner 08 Aug 2013, 16:30

Seryoga 09 Aug 2013, 08:29

Webner 09 Aug 2013, 15:45

Seryoga 09 Aug 2013, 17:36

Webner 09 Aug 2013, 19:04

Leader of the Proletariat

Group: Honorary Collective Farmer
Messages: 4848
Registration: 11/17/2008
From: South-West Administrative District Novye Cheryomushki
User #: 26

Citizens, I hasten to brag and post a photo report on the replacement of vanos on my pepelatse m62 tu, 3.5 liters. The history of the purchase of spare parts was long and painful - it dragged on from September and ended on 03/06/2009. This was followed by the repair (replacement) of these gears. Many thanks to Slava (BOOMER) and Serega (FOMA) for their support and assistance in preparing for the repair, preparing a photo report and compiling a company in the service during the repair.

January 2009 - a set of gaskets and one (!) Vanos were brought from Estonia due to an annoying inaccuracy.
February 2009 - flour and the search for the necessary craftsmen and spare parts, an attempt to repair vanos (these parts of the m62tu engine are not suitable for restoration, unlike the m52tu engine)
March 2009 - I ordered half of the missing parts (it turned out cheaper than in Estonia) and replacement.

The day 09.03.2009 will be remembered for a long time - I spent in the service from 11.30 - 24.00 - if not for Seryoga and Slava, who came to see the work, I probably would have died of boredom, thirst and hunger))

Well, now more to the point
Slava recommended me a great service, for which he has a separate respect, in which he serves his car - a twin in technical terms of my car. The place is called SK - service, on the street. Ketcherskaya, 13.
The SK service masters diagnosed the motor back in September 2008 and gave me a list of parts, of which only half came to me in January 2009. After a long search for a place for repair and the purchase of non-fitting parts, the choice again fell on SK - replacement of vanos is relatively cheap, against the minimum cost in Moscow and the Moscow region is 15 sput, as for dealers, their prices are so vulgar that I hesitate to name them (they promised to do everything in white gloves and with condoms on their heads). Let me remind you that they were busy with my car from 12.00 - 24.00.

I also want to dispel a myth about equipment that is inconceivable in terms of technical complexity (about which they sang in Boriskhovs, Units, SD motors and other scraps), necessary to replace the VANOS mechanism - all are relatively simple - camshaft locks, flywheel and timing chain, gebels, horn wrench, head with torx And plus the most common tool for disassembling a half-motor, a diagnostic computer 1b.gif ”/>.

This is how it all looked:

Description of the repair (I will clarify - only the vanos were changed, their various gaskets and adapters - chains, tensioners, etc. crap remained intact, because they were in a very decent condition):

Removing the protection of the engine crankcase and box
Drain the antifreeze completely
Removing the pleated air filter housing, LVHD
The clutch with the fan is unscrewed
We take out the engine cooling radiator with all the hoses and the expansion tank
The spark plug coils, tips are removed and the leads to the injectors and coils are removed
We unscrew the valve covers from both heads, together with the slinger plates
Opening the front head covers
We see the vanos and we are happy
fix the shafts in the correct position (in accordance with the marks)
We take out the timing chain tensioner,
The oil pumps of the vanos are removed (he fucking himself when he found out that they are)
These vanos are removed along with the gears of the exhaust camshafts, all this is accompanied by thick obscene language.
Further, gaskets, adapters of vanos are changed
Put back vanos and gears, put on a chain
Vanos are charged by turning them with gibels, additionally fixing the camshafts in addition to the special fixators with a wrench
Motor assembly begins in reverse order.

Reviews on the work of the masters - 5 s "-", tk. the correct position of the gas-phase was not immediately found (I mean that we will have to go to them one more time - we are ready to accept and configure everything for free). And so - everything is extremely cultural, not a single extra bolt, nut or clamp was left and was not required, the work was carried out neatly, the master knows the technical part very well, only the necessary tools are at hand.

In general, the cost of replacing vanos cost me an amount of 46,500 rubles.
50% of spare parts from Estonia 23 000
50% of spare parts from Russia (SK service) 17,000
Work on replacing vanos 6 500

I dare say that it is worth it - it did without replacing the chains and tensioners, but all the same, the car was changed, it became much easier to accelerate, more responsive, the consumption of luts decreased 1b.gif ”/>.

df85453
Series 7 ′ E38
Model 740i M62
Body Sedan
Transmission type automatic
Date of issue 09/1998

11 141 435 023 SEAL FLANGE * 2

11 141 741 533 PROFILE GASKET * 1

11 141 741 532 PROFILE GASKET * 1

11 361 705 578 SEAL METAL * 1

11 361 705 579 SEAL METAL * 1

11 361 438 694 Camshaft position change device (Vanos). * 2

11 120 034 104 PROFILE GASKET KIT (FOR CYLINDERS 1-4) * 1

11 120 034 105 PROFILE GASKET KIT (FOR CYLINDERS 5-8) * 1

As I understand it, all the necessary parts for repairs on 3.5 and 4.4 (m62tu) are the same

Actually, I posted similar lists of parts required to repair my 3.5 m62tu car.

Car diagnostics using USB Autoscope

Message aybolit »08 May 2015, 00:29

Message Ygryk »08 May 2015, 09:07

And where did you manage to record it? And what exactly are you failing to do?

PS:
I do not know what type of camshaft sensor such an engine is equipped with, but if it works according to the same principle as the one used in the MS40 system, then:
- the DPRV signal should be removed according to the method proposed by Andrey Shulgin (see the first message from andrw at the link above);
- the current version of the CSS script will not correctly display such a DPRV signal in the "Phase" tab.

Message aybolit »08 May 2015, 10:12

Message Ygryk »08 May 2015, 10:27

Message aybolit »08 May 2015, 12:14

Black probe on the engine body, red - alternately on contacts No. 63 and No. 65 of the ECU connector, according to the documentation given earlier (dprv (B6204) and dpkv (B6203) .jpg). If connected before the start - start is not possible, if during engine operation - the motor stops.

The flow meter was measured by connecting black and red to contacts No. 7 and No. 8 of the ECU connector according to (Siemens flow meter.jpg) of the previous post.

I guess I'm doing the wrong thing.
I will try to connect to DPRV with two channels:

black 1 channel and black 2 channels per pin # 64
red 1 channel at No. 65
red 2 channels at No. 43

I will also try the flow meter differently:

black on the case, and red on pin 8 of the ECU connector. So it will probably be more correct.

Message Ygryk »08 May 2015, 12:31

Message aybolit »08 May 2015, 12:35

Message drovolet »08 May 2015, 13:31

aibolit wrote: I will try to connect to DPRV with two channels:

black 1 channel and black 2 channels per pin # 64
red 1 channel at No. 65
red 2 channels at No. 43

DPRV has an output signal on the 64th leg of the ECU.

On 21 feet was measured at what rpm? The valve is activated around 2000.3000 rpm.

Also, check for mechanical problems with the vanos - at idle, disconnect the solenoid chip and power it directly, taking into account the polarity (it is signed on the chip). The mechanism will operate within about 3.5 seconds and the engine should start up or even stall.

Message aybolit »09 May 2015, 00:23

Message aybolit »09 May 2015, 00:23

Message Ygryk »09 May 2015, 00:59

Apparently, you did not read the post How to connect black crocodiles correctly (the link was given above), and you still want to burn the engine control unit.

:: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club. M50 Vanos - :: Conference of Almaty Drag Racing Club ::

• 15 Pages
• "The first
• ←
• 10
• 11
• 12
• 13
• 14
• →
• Last "

• You cannot create a new topic
• You cannot reply to the topic

#221 kent123

• 
• Quarantine
• 

Submitted 27 July 2009 - 16:09

#222 PilotBMW

• Group: Members
• Posts: 1041
• Registration: 11.01.09 00:11
• E39 525i Touring
• City: Village

#223 kent123

• 
• Quarantine
• 

Posted 19 September 2009 - 21:19

BMW E34, E36, E38, E39, E46, E53, E60, E61 etc. repair kit for vanos (vanos) and bivanos from beisansystems.com $ 50-90 elimination of any vanos malfunctions inexpensively profitable in quality many times superior to the original, tel .:

Change the beisansystems vanos kit and drive with a working vanos (get more traction at low rpms)
you do not need to call the Bavaria Center, since they do not sell the vanos repair kit there, further explained below. ... ...

add info na

According to the manufacturer (beisansystems), the repair kit extends the life of vanos by more than

200 thousand miles or more than 300 thousand km

original BUNA rings used by BMW last 20 miles or approximately 30 thousand km
then transformed from rubber to hardening plastic.

The material from which VANOS piston rings are made, as it turned out, lose their properties at high temperatures, temperature changes and the chemical properties of engine oil. Accordingly, they cease to ensure the tightness of the pistons, in connection with which the pistons begin to "pass" (pressure).

Bmw is aware of this problem, but has chosen to rebuild them at the factory and sell them as a new remanufactured part. The cost is $ 600-800. But what is most deplorable is that the same rings made of BUNA material (operating temperature 0-100 degrees) are put there, which after a short time (30 thousand km) again disrupt the work of Vanos.

The Beisansystems company offers rings made of a more resistant material Viton (operating temp. Mode -20 to 204 degrees), so by putting them you can be absolutely sure of the result and forget about this problem for a long time (300,000 km).

Symptoms (before repair) of poorly working vanos:
* Decrease in torque and, accordingly, poor traction, especially at the "bottom" up to 3000 rpm;
* Floating rpm on a cold engine (relevant for bivanos motor)
* Heavy set of revolutions; for example, if you go up the Fumanovo
* Loss of traction during a set of revolutions;
* Loud work Vanos "a (buzzing); (relevant for M50 and M52 engines)
* A stalling engine on a cold one.(relevant for bivanos dvig)

Results after repair bi (vanos)
* Improved traction, especially at low revs (light acceleration, of course not like an airplane),
* reduction of fuel consumption by about 10%,
* smoother engine operation,
* smooth set of revolutions without jerks and loss of traction.

Additional info on

On a double (bivanos) 1998-2006 (Double vanos)

the repair kit includes 10 seal rings and 2 steel rings (to eliminate the buzz of vanos)
1) 4- teflon rings
2) 6 rubber rings made of Viton material working temp. mode -20 to 204 degrees
the problem mainly lies in the original rubber rings used by BMW called BUNA, its operating temperature is 0-100 degrees
1 + 2 = worth 90 green

3) = 2 steel rings (to eliminate vanos hum) 90 green separately
you can buy 1 + 2 and 3 separately

For single vanos 1992-1998 (Single Vanos)
the repair kit includes 2 sealing rings and 1 steel ring (to eliminate the buzz of vanos)
1.teflon ring
2. The rubber ring is made of Viton material working temp. mode -20 to 204 degrees
the problem mainly lies in the original rubber rings used by BMW called BUNA, its operating temperature is 0-100 degrees
1 + 2 = worth 50 green

3 = steel ring (to eliminate vanos hum) 50 green separately
you can buy 1 + 2 and 3 separately

Reviews of BMW owners who replaced the repair kit with vanos from beisansystems, read very interestingly. ... ...

Repair kit for vanos and bivanos only on M50, M52, M52TU, M54, and on M56 1992-2006
only for in-line (six cylinder) motors

after replacing the repair kit, the vanos becomes new, as a result, you do not need to buy a new or used vanos