User Posts: 134 Registration: 4.9.2008 From: Moscow
there was an analogous divorce - they also ordered the vanos to change along with the camshafts - they were sent
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 323 Registration: 3.10.2006 From: Irkutsk
The shafts, judging by the cams, are in order (I did not remove the cover, but I think there are no miracles there)
Pride of the Club
User Posts: 2564 Registration: 2.4.2008 From: Moscow
it is the phase shifter that hurts.
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 323 Registration: 3.10.2006 From: Irkutsk
Pride of the Club
User Posts: 2564 Registration: 2.4.2008 From: Moscow
Honorary Citizen
User Posts: 323 Registration: 3.10.2006 From: Irkutsk
Permanent resident
User Posts: 134 Registration: 4.9.2008 From: Moscow
The shafts, judging by the cams, are in order (I did not remove the cover, but I think there are no miracles there)
Well, did he change vanos or not, if so, what is the result (IMG: https: //forum.my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/828/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
I hope to change in a couple of weeks (vanos on the road) - got diesel rattling. And as for the impressions - an acquaintance at 7-40 E38 changed these same vanos and was satisfied with the result - to shove from the bottom is better than the beginning, to eat less. Only spare parts (couplings and adapters) are quite expensive.
Assembling the M62TU44 motor (replacing the main circuit and its neighbors) - logbook 1998 BMW 5 series 4.4 on DRIVE2
Video (click to play).
Finally, it came to the bottom of the motor, did not start for a long time since there was no shaft knee lock on the torsional vibration damper hub, and did not find the original, I had to do it at the turner.
The price for the old course is 825 gr to wait two weeks, plus an indefinite amount for delivery. Found an office in Lugansk.
And this is what the turner bungled me for 100 grams
It looks not impressive, it sucks at all
Installing this retainer on the pulley hub, I began to loosen the bolt.
I rested against the spar was dumb, did not want to damage the pillow, and decided to change the angle.
I did not want to put pressure on the spar and rested against the corner of the pit.
And he began to spin the pipe, the handle from the orbitrek. And he wrapped his retainer in a German cross, like a plasticine bent in three places. So it did not help me ...
The next day I went to another turner, showed the emu this product and demanded to create the best miracle, and that's what happened.
Solid metal showed its superiority, especially since it made the handle longer, which made it possible to unload almost completely the engine mount
And the bolt was unscrewed, but with great effort))) Hurray. Having removed the cover, a lot of interesting things were noticed, the oil separator was in a lame condition, he wanted to retire ...
It did not affect the operation of the engine)))
With him, under the sly, the shaft knee oil seal went, the oil seal was oak)
An ear on the oil separator broke off where the tube is attached, and the oil seal can be seen in the photo, tired.
Replacing these cases, things went further ...
When replacing, it is necessary to remove the guide chain and loosen the bypass bar; for convenience, it is necessary to remove the oil drain pipe.
Then the chain was replaced, the bypass bar, the tensioner bar and the chain guide were changed earlier
Now everything is in a safe state And there is another nuance that I got caught on, this is the chain, if the vanos are removed, then it must be fixed on the sprocket in a taut state with a clamp, in order for the chain to sit on the sprocket, it turned out the other way around, and had to be removed cover and tear off new gaskets
Let's start telling how to regulate the whole thing or how I did it))
Look for half an hour, disassemble or not, then take it and twist it (Eyes are on the watch and hands twist)
When disassembling, I advise you to tighten the bolts and nuts, as far as possible, into their places. So then do not oh ... how many of them are there and where.
Since I have vanos and chains, the procedure took a little longer.
Remove covers, oil lines, chain tensioner
Remove the left cover Be sure to change the sealing rubber after installing a new gasket.
We change the O-rings on the tensioners, and the plastic shoes.
Not expensive, but the chain tension will already be better, and pleases the eye
We change small chains, the photo shows the difference
A new chain, a piston outlet, it is visually visible that it is shorter, of course, and the shoes are not idle here
The chain is almost identical in length, but in the bend you can see in the photo whether it is bad or normal, I did not find out
Changed the adapter gaskets, and the check valve O-rings inside the adapters
It was possible not to pick and not change
Believe me, when I removed the adapter, I did not see anything that could skip the oil very much, especially since the sound of vanos is due to it. That may be a meeting of the rings, but I think cases with bad oil, otherwise I see no reason to remove it I removed and installed the old one back. Removing and installing it is very problematic for me))
When we have everything installed, we begin to regulate
It is better not to start without this miracle of a suitcase))
In this position, the locking pin should fit into the hole without problems.
Camshaft clamps, the photo shows that the angle is different, therefore, do not start without them.
They are installed in such a way that on the right side where the tensioner was wine 1-4
To install, the intake camshaft must be rotated slightly counterclockwise
front cams should be facing each other as in the photo
Correct locking position
On the left side is the same, at the end of the camshaft there should be an inscription 5-8
Embossed on the camshaft 5-8 The inscription must be visible when fixing
This is how the cams look when locked
You may need to turn the intake camshaft a little too
Then we pull the chain so that it does not sag
I pulled with my fingers all the way so that the chain was free of play, there was no need to pull too much.
Then we put on the cover, since I didn't pull the chain right away and it sagged, I installed the front cover, and fixed everything, after assembly I realized that everything had to be disassembled since the chain did not sit down, not the sprocket of the shaft knees, I had to change the gaskets again
They are disposable, according to the old rate of 160 g, in a new way, when I was 10 g, then I already took it for 230 g
then use a special head to scroll the vanos all the way to the left extreme
position for removing the oil cushion and its original position
all the way to the left left and right vanos
Then we take the tester, set it to dial and check the housing seal
left and right vanos should ring
Then we tighten the bolts of the right vanos 110 Nm inlet and 125 Nm outlet And also on the left side. When I unrolled it, it was 175 Nm, I tried to tighten the bolt burst, since the wedge worked on one side and the thread is left, I do not advise tightening with a constriction, you can break the bolt. I had to change the camshaft, a friend had a motor, he gave it, and then I tightened Nm with a dynamometric Savdepovsky
After tightening, install the clamps and vanos discs, tighten with 30Nm
and Voila))) Continued in a new magazine
Price tag: 3 800 UAH Mileage: 345,500 km
So it's time for me to share some experience in ICE repair.
P.S.: camshaft locks were ordered from turners - (1500 for everything). You need 4 pieces. Two per head.
Andryukha! Thank you very much!
Finally, the ordered parts came and I began to slowly assemble the motor. With the guys in the lathe, we also made strips for installing the camshafts, the design is really a little different, but all the angles of deflection of the shafts are set correctly, inlet at - 0, outlet ahead (relative to the inlet) 3.5 degrees, then maybe salt pictures of the tools.
As it should be, the motor is stuck at TDC, the shafts are fixed with slats.Changed the oil seal of the oil line to the tensioner (mandatory procedure) Installed Vanoses, stars with chains, just screwed on, do not tighten (reverse thread) Installed a flushed separator, it was excellent, did not change (well, what is there in this piece of shit for 4000 rupees?) Installed the tensioner bar Threw on the chain Install the chain damper Stretched the chain, just removed the tensioner bar with a tie, quite tight We unscrew the vanos to the extreme left position and tighten (moment 110 and 125 Nm) We put on the phase sensor rings and screw on the nut , do not tighten (reverse thread) Well, we actually put the lower front cover of the motor Press in the crankshaft oil seal We tighten the crankshaft hub, again what I did came in handy Install the Vanos valves and remove the chain loosening We tighten the upper covers, they must be pressed onto the lower cover Install the chain tensioner Install the sensors F and tighten them h. On the lids there are such special bolts for Torx, so we unscrew them and insert a drill or a nail of a boring diameter there, and there is a hole on the DF rings, we push it there (well, if anyone is especially interested I can tell you)
We fasten the sealing flanges of the Vanos valves
Well, for now, everything is about the motor for this post, I will only tell you a secret that the motor has already been assembled and is already running, but this is a completely different story ...
For one thing, I decided to check the operation of the automatic transmission heat exchanger, I didn't like how it works, it seems to me that the box was overheating, and I will say that it was NOT in vain. It was simply jammed in the closed position, something flew into the valve (I assume that this is a fragment of a part of the hose from the radiator to the heat exchanger). In short, I disassembled it, washed it, checked the operation of the heating element (such a thing that pushes the stem and opens the valve), it works very well. Checked in hot water, opens. Well, I collected everything and already installed it ...
Good day to all. I will repair Vanos on the M62TU engine. Not a replacement of rubber rings and seals, namely a full-fledged repair with flaring and subsequent modernization under a collapsible one. Replacing the ring itself (PISTON), which is responsible for the tightness of the chamber into which oil is supplied under pressure. And a cap is machined, which tightens the whole mechanism with screws. Price tag $ 300 for vanos.
Miniatury
yoma these vanos have been modified and have several advantages over new ones.
1. The rings that I install in vanos have a slightly longer resource than new ones. Since they are piston-type and made of better cast iron than their own. Plus, depending on the degree of vitality of the vanos being repaired, a chrome-plated (fire-resistant) piston ring can be installed; it has improved friction properties and wears out longer.
2. Secondly, it is a duralumin clip that is clamped on bolts. Unlike rolling (IT DOES NOT ROLL, THAT IS A VERY COMMON REASON FOR LEAVING THE VANOS) and a plastic clip (WHICH SITS AND LIKES STARTS TO VERSE OIL AS A CONSEQUENCE OF WHAT THIS IS).
3. The collapsible design allows later, without the help of machines and turners, to disassemble the vanos and replace the ring directly to the owner himself and thereby carry out the repair himself.
It is up to the owner to decide. buy new vanos for $ 1000 every 150 thousand or repair it once and then forget about this problem.
In our workshop, you can bring back to life the thumping, "diesel-rumbling" and twitching engine M62TU c Vanos (except for 4.6 liters). With the help of repair kits, the tightness of the Vanos-gears of BMW 11361438694 is restored and the knock of the diesel engine is eliminated during operation. M62TU engines were installed on BMW E38, E39, E53 X5 and Range Rover, Land Rover. There are various repair options for Vanos M62TU, click on the option you are interested in below:
>>> Repair of the VANOS "Basic" system
This type of repair for M62TU Vanos includes a minimum list of work on the engine:
Vanos gears (Vanos) are dismantled from your engine
Repair and restoration of Vanos is carried out with the help of our repair kits
The engine is assembled and the timing phases are set with a special tool
Computer diagnostics of the Vanos system is carried out based on the repair results.
The warranty period is 1 year.
The warranty for this type of repair applies only to Vanos gears, and not to the entire Vanos system.
