DIY CVT repair k310

A variator is a gearbox without steps (i.e. without the usual gear shifting by means of gear engagement). In fact, there is no gear change at all in the variator, the torque is transmitted and changed smoothly, without jerks, and it is limited by the specified parameters. Therefore, a car with such a box is suitable for those who drive without sudden accelerations and stops and want to save a lot on fuel. Instead of the usual gear pairs, this type of transmission has two pulleys connected together by a belt or chain. CVT repair will be associated with them, or with its electronic control.

The variator is quite reliable and rarely needs repair, but there are things that it does not like. This is a fast driving style, constant use of the maximum power of the gearbox and hard braking. The second destructive moment is the working fluid, if it is of poor quality or does not change to a new one according to the regulations. All of the above, individually and in combination, leads to overheating and increased wear of parts and leads to a malfunction of the variator. Separately, it is worth noting the filter element. You should know that every time you change the fluid in the variator, the filter must be replaced with a new one.

Symptoms of a malfunctioning variator in an electrician will be seen immediately. A light on the instrument panel will tell you about this. "Service required"... You can find out in more detail what kind of malfunction is taking place using the variator diagnostics.

The most common malfunction is jerking when driving, as they say "the variator jerks."

These may be malfunctions of the variator control unit, electronic actuators and various sensors, which are abundant in this type of transmission.
Signs of a variator breakdown in its mechanical part are shocks when shifting gears, the inability to manually switch, the gearbox speed does not change, its movement in neutral gear, slippage, or no movement at all.

If you need to get to a car service, then remember that if it is impossible to change speeds, towing a vehicle is impossible in other ways, except on a tow truck. It is also not recommended to tow on a flexible or rigid hitch in the event of other malfunctions, but there is such a possibility if a certain sequence of gear changes is observed, without sudden movements, very slowly and not far.

To repair the variator with your own hands, you will need a lot of knowledge and skills. Not every service takes care of these boxes. The main reason for this is the large number of electrical devices. To check the variator properly, you need to have a whole arsenal of diagnostic equipment, which, by the way, will also see mechanical breakdowns. But if you still decide to fix the problem yourself, then this is possible.

How to identify a malfunction of the variator?

For diagnostics, it is necessary to dismantle the variator and disassemble, before that, carefully disconnecting all the wiring and remembering the sequence of actions. Just like with any other box, this is the only way to determine exactly what is out of order and fix it. Without disassembling the boxes, it is impossible to say unambiguously what kind of problem is taking place. The cost of repairing the variator in this case will be much cheaper and consist only of purchasing the necessary spare parts.

CVT repair in service

This begs the question - how much does it cost to repair a variator in a car service?

It is quite expensive to repair a CVT transmission, so many car owners prefer buying contract or new boxes to repair.

It is impossible to answer it unequivocally.First, it depends on the make of the car (and the price difference is huge). Secondly, from the type of breakdown. In the best case, it will be flushing the valve body valves with an oil change - approximately 6-8 thousand rubles, replacing these valves - 10-13, replacing the entire valve body - 20-25, complete restoration of all elements - 40-45 thousand rubles (Such calculations are applicable to models Peugeot, Honda). Consider also the price of diagnostic services. Thirdly, the cost of repairing the variator depends on the region in which you live.

This is the selection of the optimal speed range for the engine speed. As already mentioned at the beginning, the variator does not have a gear change in our usual understanding, it moves smoothly within the given framework.

Calibration is setting the desired speed range.

The variator is calibrated either in the process of movement or in the parking lot. Before and after the repair of the variator gearbox, calibration must be carried out.

The CVT gearbox is gaining more and more these days, and there is a fairly simple explanation for this. First of all, it is the simplicity of the design. But, nevertheless, the service and repair of the variator requires certain knowledge and skills. The gearbox consists of various components and systems, which, if used incorrectly, can malfunction and it will be difficult to repair them.

Many variator malfunctions are the result of non-observance of the basic rules of operation and maintenance:

• non-compliance with the terms of fluid replacement;
• failure to comply with the deadlines for replacing filters;
• the use of low quality lubricants;
• driving errors;
• driving at top speed;
• frequent sharp braking;
• driving on bad roads.

To avoid many troubles with the variator box and then not to repair, adhere to the following simple maintenance rules:

• every thirty thousand km. mileage change the oil;
• change the filter elements in time;
• after seventy thousand km. mileage change the stepper motor and shaft sensors.

Disassembled variator gearbox

Do not forget that diagnostics of the variator is much cheaper than repairing it with your own hands, even at a service station.

In the event of a malfunction concerning the electronic part, the message - Service required will light up on the display located on the dashboard.

Electronic problems

If the temperature of the liquid rises above the norm, it will light up - Slow down.

In order to accurately establish the breakdown and fix it yourself, you need special diagnostics carried out using special equipment. For many breakdowns, a special code is provided by which they are installed:

• sensor malfunctions (temperature, pulley speed, pressure, line, pulley pressure);
• ECU malfunctions;
• malfunctions of a stepper motor, valves, mains;
• decrease or increase in pressure in the pulley.

When carrying out diagnostics, do not forget that a probable prerequisite for a malfunction may not only be a breakdown of some unit. Often, the wiring can be damaged or a defect in a connector. Also, the problem may lie in the failure of the transmission control unit.

In some situations, upon detection of malfunctions, the control system of the variator transmission can be automatically transferred to a special mode. This mode differs from the usual one in a special fixed gear ratio.

It will not be possible to establish malfunctions of the mechanical part of the boxes only with the help of electronic diagnostics. In this situation, there is a need to carry out a whole range of measures:

• it is necessary to check the condition of the working fluid;
• identify all the symptoms of a malfunction;
• analysis of all ECU data;
• testing on the road.

In the operation of variator boxes, failures and breakdowns of a different plan sometimes occur. Very often there are noises and squeaks of various types. In this case, the transmission may need to be disassembled. This process is not so complicated and with a detailed study of the material, you can handle it yourself.

Before proceeding with disassembly, it is worthwhile to prepare in advance special containers for the parts to be removed.To make it easier to assemble later, arrange the containers in the order of disassembly. If you are doing this work for the first time and are not sure that you can remember the order of disassembly, then the whole process can be captured on the camera. Parts can also be labeled.

It is better to repair in a well-lit and ventilated area.

1. The first step is to unscrew the bolts that secure the cover.
2. We remove it.
3. We remove the shaft together with a part of the body.
4. We unscrew the remaining bolts.
5. Remove the second part of the cover.
6. We remove the gears.
7. We unscrew the screws that secure the pump casing.
8. We remove the gear.
9. Remove the pump chain.
10. Remove the oil pump cover.
11. We remove the shaft.
12. We turn over the gearbox.
13. Using a screwdriver, remove another cover.
14. The belt must be tightened with clamps.
15. We remove the pulleys and belt.
16. We release the pulleys from the belt.

Removed and disassembled gearbox

Now that the variator is disassembled, it is necessary to check all its components and systems. Pay special attention to the condition of the bearings, pay attention to whether the backlash is increased. Look at the condition of the belt and if its tension is loose. Inspect gears, hydraulic block and other parts for possible defects. The most common problem resulting in noise in the CVT box is high bearing wear. In this case, nothing will help, except for a replacement, you can do it yourself.

It is very important to identify the malfunction in the variator box in time and eliminate it. This will allow you to avoid more serious damage, which will be quite difficult to repair, and it costs much less.

In this video, the auto repairman will tell you in detail and show how you can repair variator gearboxes with your own hands. It costs much less than contacting a service station.

• Self-flushing of the automatic transmission valve body
• We do the repair of the machine box ourselves
• Compare the tiptronic gearbox and the automatic

In fact, everything is written very correctly. In any case, I try to solve such problems in car services at inexpensive prices, they do their job efficiently.

Hello
I have a problem with the box
honda fit 2002 release
mileage 157000
the oil in the box changed 140,000
the problem is that the car does not go forward when starting after a night of inactivity
goes back without problems, but does not go forward until it warms up well for about 15 minutes
and even when it is turned on for a long time on D during warm-up, then D starts flashing
if you turn off the engine and then start it, it no longer blinks and starts to slowly get under way.
during the day there are no problems, everything works fine.

Hello!
Honda fit aria stopped driving forward and backward rides perfectly

While driving at a speed of 40 kilometers per hour, it happens on the variator that it starts to make noise. Most often, drivers mistakenly think that the variator cannot be repaired with their own hands. Such people do not even try to search for information on the Internet or in other sources. This opinion was formed due to the fact that this type of gearbox is much less common than a standard gearbox. But he who seeks always finds, and this article is for such people.

Unfortunately, without removing the variator from the car, it will not be possible to repair it. So, after it has been removed, it should be placed on a prepared table in advance and disassembled. In order to disassemble the variator case with your own hands, you will need a set of keys, clamps and screwdrivers, a hammer and several pry bars.

It should be noted that when you repair the variator, you need to prepare special containers in order to put bolts and nuts in them. This is very important in order not to lose anything. In addition, all containers must be in a strictly chronological order so as not to make mistakes during assembly. If you have a bad memory, then it is best to photograph or sign all the parts so as not to get confused during assembly. So, when everything is ready, you can start the process.

1. The first step is to unscrew the transfer shaft cover.Most often there are 6 of them, after all six bolts have been unscrewed and folded in one place, we begin to try to open this cover with a screwdriver. Of course, it may not work the first time, but you need to try, and everything will work out.
2. After opening, we will see the transfer shaft. It's not worth looking at it for a long time, we just take it out and put it in a container where the bolts and the cover of the transfer shaft are already lying. If necessary, it is better to sign this and put it on the edge of the table, since this will be the final process during assembly. Now you need to turn the box body over and remove the shaft together with a part of the body.
3. After that, we proceed to unscrew the other bolts that hold half of the variator housing. Such bolts are located around the perimeter of the box and can be simply unscrewed. These bolts are best folded right into the half you remove. If necessary, you can also sign them, but even without a signature it is clear that they are needed to fasten half of them.
4. You will need a hammer to remove the cover. With its help, you should tap the case until you remove the cover from its place. As a result, we see a disassembled gearbox.
5. First of all, you see two large shafts that need to be removed. Having removed them, they must be put in the order in which they were removed, this is very important.
6. After that, remove the gear that holds the pump chain. In order to do this, unscrew the pump bolts and put them in a separate container.
7. Now remove the oil pump cover.

In fact, there is nothing difficult in this process, the main thing is to sign and put everything in chronological order.

1. In order to remove the pump cover, you just need to pull it up.
2. Then you need to get out the shaft, this is as simple as removing the cover, and the principle of operation is the same.
3. After all this has been removed from the body, turn the body over and unscrew the bolts that hold the body on the other side.
4. Having unscrewed them, remove the box lid. This will not be easy, so the main thing is to have patience and a screwdriver.
5. After opening, two shafts will appear in front of us. This is an automatic device for transferring the gear ratio between shafts without shifting gears, which is called a variator.
6. Now we need clamps in order to tighten the belt. This is necessary so that it does not break during dismantling.
7. Then we take out these shafts at the same time. The main thing is that nothing outsiders should get into the shrinking place of these shafts, otherwise irreparable will happen.
8. So, putting these two shafts on the floor or table, you will need to remove one shaft from the belt. This can be done by pressing on the upper part. It will not be so easy to do this, but it is still possible.
9. So, when these two shafts lie in front of us, you need to grab the outer bearing ring and swing it to the sides. If there is a backlash, then the cause has been found and in order to eliminate it, you just need to replace the bearings.

The variator assembly process is completely the reverse of the disassembly process. If during the disassembly everything was correctly laid or signed, then it will not be difficult to do this, but if something went wrong, then you should re-read the article in the reverse order.

It should be noted that the casing of the variator was sealed before disassembly, and after repairs, it must remain sealed. This is to prevent the transmission oil from leaking out of the housing. In order to make the case airtight, you need to coat the junction with sealant and tighten the bolts that hold the case tightly.

During the entire repair, it must not be allowed that water or other small particles get into the case, which in the future can cause such damage to the variator that it will be impossible to fix it.

If, while driving, even at low speeds in the area of ​​the gearbox, an unpleasant noise is heard, then it is necessary to repair the variator. It will be cheaper to do it yourself. The fact is that the masters who repair the variators will take a lot precisely because they will completely disassemble the variator case with their own hands, because there are no automatic devices for parsing.In fact, CVT repairs can be done by hand in your garage. This will require patience and the right set of tools. In addition, it is better to drop in and buy bearings for replacement right away. Because most often it is they who make the noise.

The article describes in detail the process of parsing the variator with your own hands. Just after reading the article, you can evaluate your strengths and think about whether you can make repairs with your own hands, or whether it would be better to drive the car to a service station and give the money, but without any difficulties you will get an already made car without various noises.

Automatic transmission Toyota / Aisin Co (CVT) K310, K311, K312, K110, K111, K112, XA-10LN, XA-15LN

CVTs (CVTs) K310, K311, K312, K111, K112 Toyota have been installing on exotic Prius since 2000 as an attempt at a technological breakthrough to catch up with the competitor Jatko, who had pulled ahead, with his mega-successful CVT JF011E.

Since 2000, Toyota began to work on a new series under the name K110-112 (engines over 2 liters). The first CVT K110 went into series in 2000 and works on Estim, Opa, Corolla, Yaris and some other right-hand drive cars for the Japanese (Australian) markets. In 2004, some improvements were made and a more modern modification of the K111 came out, and in 2005 the next modification, the K112. All improvements were mainly related to the valve body and computer settings.

The most common is the K110 variator aggregated with a 2 liter engine.

Its run-in was started in 2001 at Toyota Premio. After testing and refinement, it was continued to be tested on the Allion in 2003, and after 2004 it was already launched into a wide series of cars with a 2-liter engine. And now K110 recognized as a fairly reliable variator for Toyota's flagship - Corolla.

There were releases of trial variators of the K210 series. In 2003, a new series of CVTs was launched. K310 (with engines of 1.5 and 1.8 liters) of an already developed design.

The K310 series is adapted for lower torque from engines up to 1800 cm3. K310 almost from the start has been devoid of family problems and began to be installed on all production Toyota models, starting with local Allion, ending with the world Corolla and Yaris. CVT K310 is also known under the maiden (Aisin's) name XB-20LN.

In parallel (2002) Aisin developed a related series of variators called XA-10LN, for the external non-Toyota world. This is not to say that the Jatkov JF011E was a success because it was better than Toyota's CVTs. Jatko most likely took the seriality of his cars and the associated low price. Therefore, Toyota and Aisin decided to occupy their niche here as well, releasing their even more reliable and more powerful mini-class variator.

Since 2005, the XA10-LN has been running around with 1.3 liter engines on Toyota Vitz kids, and since 2007 it has been offered for serial Suzuki Swift. And after a successful start, they began to bet on Splash.

The next in the XA series was the CVT XA15-LN under a 1.5 liter engine. This variator has already thrown a serious challenge to the Jatka variators, providing, along with the Aisin reliability, the dynamics of acceleration and the power of the transmitted torque.

XA15-LN I liked the Mazda for its overclocking characteristics. Since 2007 XA15-LN installed on Demio, followed by Mazda 2 and Axelo.

His qualities were also appreciated by Subaru, who took him for his Trezia. This CVT can be considered a challenge to Jatko's monopoly and a claim to leadership in the market for expensive and powerful CVTs, which has been empty since the days when the JF010 (Murano) CVT was not charismatic enough.

Modifications K111-K112 They use Toyota patents for the construction of cones of the type of Dzhatkov-type variators and the main consumable for this generation of variators - the belts of Bosch-“Fandorin Transmission” (VanDoorn) are the same for them.

Typical malfunctions of Toyota variators

Toyota CVTs go to boring reliable, requiring only a change of disposable felt filter - no. 348010, oil and only occasionally a typical overhaul for the JF011 with replacement of the belt and bearings.

The oil in the variators is an extremely important element of the transmission, on which the long life of the cones and the belt directly depends.

Oil used by Toyota CVT

Bosch belt - No. 348700, although it has become much more durable and the percentage of breaks up to 100 tkm dropped to zero, but Aisin recommends changing the belt after runs for 150 tkm, without waiting for its destruction, especially if the variator is constantly used in winter (poorly heated oil).

Recommendations "How to delay the aging of the variator":

1. Warm up before driving, ATF oil to a temperature of at least +60 degrees.

2. Change the oil as soon as its purity is in doubt.

3. Change with oil disposable filter.

4. Driving style.

5. Change belt, preventing its operation with a worn out tread.

The bald surface begins to slip along the cones, the pump, in order to prevent wear of the cones, increases the pressure several times, reaching 40 atm, which multiplies the breaking force on the tightening belts of the belt. And under this load, metal fatigue occurs earlier and can lead to the ingress of pieces of steel into the rotating components of the variator.

This is comparable to riding bald tires. You can postpone the replacement of tires for a year and save money, but in the event of an accident, small savings turn into big losses.

Today, I want to talk about the reliability of CVTs installed on cars Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Corolla Axio, Toyota Corolla Ist, Toyota Vitz and other models with a variator K310 (K310)... Be that as it may, everything new is always accompanied by distrust, and it also happens with the variator, which began to be installed in Toyota cars.

For a long time Toyota refused from CVTs, for a reason unknown to us, perhaps this was due to the assessment of the market not ready for the transition to CVTs or insufficient reliability or high cost of production. Nevertheless, class B cars were produced with CVTs and later the rest of the classes were moved to CVTs. For our models, Toyota installs a CVT model K310 or K311 manufactured at the Aisin factory (http://www.aisin.com/).

My Fielder has a mileage of 96,000 km, and I think no one has changed the oil or the filter in Japan, while the variator works stably and reliably, in the future I plan to replace the malso in the variator. The price of the original Toyota oil for the Toyota variator, catalog number 08886-02105, varies from 3000 to 3500 rubles.

There are analogues of this oil from the most famous Japanese manufacturers in Russia, Aisin cvt and Totachi cvt, their price is lower, around 2,200 rubles. Considering that the variator for Toyota is produced by Aisin, it is possible that the original Toyota oil is the same as that poured into Aisin cvt, or maybe better, so I'll take it.

An oil change requires at least 8 liters of oil, taking into account a partial replacement, 12 liters are needed, and this is already expensive even if you pour an analogue. Therefore, for the first time I will buy 8 liters of oil and make a partial replacement twice in a row, later I will write what happened in the end and how it affected the operation of the variator. At the moment, there is some kind of incomprehensible slowdown when driving at speeds below 40 km / h when the engine is braking and by pressing the gas pedal the variator dulls and responds later. In the future, I will try to describe the procedure for changing the oil in the Toyota Corolla Fielder / Axio variator.

iakpp »Thu May 26, 2011 13:53

Hello, my name is Mikhail, I am the director of the service for the repair of automatic transmissions and variators.
It so happened that recently one of our most frequent customers has become a Nissan Qashai. The reason for the call is the noise, which develops into a hum at a speed of 40 km / h or more.

After several successfully repaired cars, I decided to make a detailed photo report on the repair of this problem with my own hands.
In principle, having the skills to repair a car is a completely solvable task. The photo report contains, in my opinion, a detailed description of the actions.
If the topic is interesting, ask questions, perhaps replenishment and revision of the photo report.

So let's get started!
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A common problem in Nissan Qashai is CVT noise at speeds of 40-60 km / h or more.A variator in a car is still much less common than a traditional gearbox. Therefore, many legends have developed around the repair of the variator. Using the accumulated experience, we will try to dispel one of them, namely: "the variator cannot be repaired on its own." We are just sharing our experience out of respect for competent motorists who want to fix the problem with their own hands.

What we need:
Keys for 10-11-14, impact screwdriver, hammer, 6 clamps, spacious and clean work table, any camera.

An important point: you will need plastic bowls to store the removed parts in them. Each bowl, as it is filled, should be placed in the order of the chronological sequence of dismantling, inscribed, important points should be photographed. This will help to accurately reassemble the variator consistently.

This is how the removed Nissan Qashai CVT looks like. The first one went!

We start by unscrewing the 6 bolts of the transfer case cover.

Using a screwdriver, carefully pry off the cover of the dispenser and remove it.

Isn't it getting interesting?

And that's okay: a conventional tapered roller bearing.

We take out the "piece", it turned out - a two-bearing helical gear. We place all this in the first bowl together with 6 bolts and label it.

We turn the box over, take out the shaft together with part of the box body.

We unscrew the bolts around the perimeter.

Using a hammer, gently tap the lid around the perimeter, removing it from the guide axes.

This is what a semi-disassembled variator looks like. This moment is worthy to be recorded on the camera.

We remove two gears.

Do not forget that we put everything in separate bowls according to the principle of belonging to one assembly unit and label it.

We unscrew the screws securing the pump casing.

Remove the gear with the pump chain.

Now the oil pump cover can be easily removed. Grab the pump shaft end, pull it up and remove it. Nothing complicated!

It will also be easy to assemble in the reverse order, if you remember to photograph and arrange the bowls with the recoverable parts in chronological order.

We take out the shaft behind it. Everything, we have coped with this side of the variator box.

We turn the box over again and unscrew the fastening elements of the lid.

The cover sits tightly on the guide axes, gently squeeze it around the perimeter with a screwdriver.

And remove the cover.

Before us is the main assembly of the variator - 2 shafts and a belt.

Actually, this is an automatic variator, a device for continuously changing the gear ratio between two shafts.

He's from a different angle.

But this is not our ultimate goal, although it becomes more and more exciting.

Using ordinary plastic clips, we tighten the belt in several places so that it does not crumble during subsequent dismantling.

Carefully remove the pulleys with a belt from the body.

Needless to say, when dismantling, nothing foreign should get into these mounting holes?

We put the pulleys on a flat surface and by force (that's why we pulled the belt with clamps!) We pull the pulley, as shown in the photo.

And we free the pulleys from the belt. The pulleys of interest to us on the table

Try to grab the outer race of this bearing and wiggle it slightly. Perceptible and uneven backlash! The source of the hum was found - bearing wear. Here we have a sense of satisfaction from a job well done. We did it!

After replacing the bearing, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. It's simple, because all the bowls with the knots removed are inscribed and are in chronological order. Before assembly, all internal parts of the box must be thoroughly rinsed with gasoline. And for ourselves we draw a conclusion: the "japanese mother" is not so scary as she is painted!

1VICTOR1 »Thu May 26, 2011 18:30

BoZman »Thu May 26, 2011 19:13

666 »Thu May 26, 2011 20:34

iakpp »Thu May 26, 2011 11:24 pm

Yes, there are spare parts, for repairs - depending on the state of the box, the capital costs from 50 to 80 rubles.

Added after 2 minutes 34 seconds:

OlegSOM »Fri May 27, 2011 8:58 am

transferable, thanks. You have given hope to many.

Does this procedure for replacing the bearing refer to the capital?

As far as I understand, the capital for a varik is something more than replacing a part here, in addition to cleaning and flushing everything (up to disassembling and cleaning the torque converter unit), fault detection and polishing procedures must be carried out on the pulleys themselves. something like this

AnD345 »Fri May 27, 2011 10:07 am

BoZman »Fri May 27, 2011 11:03

Probably it is, but then this is the best advertisement that I have seen in three years on two Kashkaev forums.
P.S. I hope we will see the bearing data. I would like the author to continue to advise on CVT repair. I think that the company has a good advertisement and a help to the forum. There will always be enough customers for a conscientious service, because not everyone will undertake an independent CVT repair, and you need to have the conditions for this. IMHO

Added after 8 minutes 38 seconds:

jett »Fri May 27, 2011 14:46

nikiton »Fri May 27, 2011 15:55

iakpp »Fri May 27, 2011 16:01

No bearing replacement does not apply to the capital, but in order to eliminate the noise, you have to remove the box and completely disassemble it.
Such work in St. Petersburg costs 22k.

Added after 1 minute 57 seconds:

AnD345 wrote: Why so many body movements for the sake of one bearing, to replace it, isn't it enough to remove only the cover?
The cover cannot be removed until the shafts have been removed from the other side. This is the difficulty.

iakpp wrote: On the side of each bearing there is its number and the manufacturer.

These are the data for the studio.

I'll post the data today. The bearing costs around 500 rubles.

Added after 3 minutes 26 seconds:

The variator needs to be repaired when the variator is faulty. It's just that recently they have made more than one car with such a problem, which is why I posted a photo report - both useful and interesting. And the hum can occur due to the drive or wheel bearing.

RAlexandr »Fri May 27, 2011 19:24

Agstroy »Sat May 28, 2011 9:25

AnD345 »Sat May 28, 2011 22:15

sergey_ky »Sat May 28, 2011 22:31

Agstroy »Sun May 29, 2011 13:07

... and I mean the same

RAlexandr »Sun May 29, 2011 19:44

sergey_ky »Sun May 29, 2011 20:03

Ash-kakah »Mon May 30, 2011 12:20

ASGrib »Mon May 30, 2011 12:25

OlegSOM »Mon May 30, 2011 14:42

yes, of course, only if a small condition is met - if you prove that a certain hum is not the norm.
But even then none of the officials will change the bearing - the entire variator will be replaced.

But here you need to try very hard or be very convincing or bring the varik to the state of errors on the scanner or to an obvious malfunction and / or a metal rattle in it.

Added after 8 minutes 54 seconds:
iakpp - Mikhail, please tell me from the point of view of your experience:
small hum of the variator (or more precisely: subjectively from the region of the variator) when coasting in the speed range from about 50 to 40
is it the same disease that you describe, or can you suggest something else?
This phenomenon is quite massive and the officials shrug their shoulders at this fact otmazyvayas that such is the feature of the variator.

Ximik_rus »Thu Jun 02, 2011 22:44

BoZman »Thu Jun 02, 2011 23:10

andts »Mon Jun 27, 2011 13:37

Vitalij700 »Thu Aug 11, 2011 09:09

saturnusus »Wed Oct 12, 2011 12:38 PM

Sticks »Wed Oct 12, 2011 13:48

saturnusus »Wed Oct 12, 2011 13:50

voevodin Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:41 am

Aleeex »Thu Dec 22, 2011 18:22

For voevodin
I have a similar problem - a 2-liter car, front-wheel drive, variator 2007, mileage 140,000 km
When starting off, the rear wheels are blocked (at the first moment), especially if it is done abruptly. Then in motion, in the process of gaining speed, the car starts to go normally (though not always and not immediately). If you need to brake (at a traffic light), then it does not go at all, even if the pedal is pressed into the floor. The service said that the oil pressure is low, and it is one thing to replace the variator. I am now looking for a solution to the problem in other, more acceptable (for a price) ways.
If anyone has an idea of ​​the cause of the malfunction, and most importantly - a way to eliminate it - please share your considerations.

Added after 2 minutes 1 second:
The hum in the cabin, by the way, is also present.

Added after 2 minutes 52 seconds:
The hum in the cabin, by the way, is also present.