The hob is one of the most important appliances in the kitchen, and, like any other technique, is prone to breakdowns, but making repairs with your own hands is quite simple. If a malfunction is discovered during the warranty period, your stove will be repaired free of charge.But if a breakdown occurs several years later, you can try to repair the hob with your own hands, since contacting specialists can cost a little less than buying a new stove.
In this article, our experts have listed all the malfunctions of the hob and step by step disassembled the process of repairing the malfunctions with their own hands.
If you do not have a multimeter, you can use an indicator screwdriver for repairs, with which you can check the presence of voltage on all parts of the circuit. We also recommend watching a video that will help you repair the hobs yourself.
VIDEO The main malfunctions that users of electric hobs may encounter are as follows:
See also - How to connect the hob with your own hands
Although induction panels are the most modern and high-tech devices, they are also not immune to malfunctions. We will analyze the main malfunctions of induction panels, and what repairs you can try to do yourself.
The induction hob does not turn on or turns off immediately - most often this is a feature of this type of panel, and not a malfunction. The induction hob has a protective function, if you use the wrong diameter or material of the cookware, the hob will automatically turn off the power, and the hotplate will not heat up. Also, the hotplate will turn off automatically if you remove the dishes from the surface.The induction hob heats up for a long time and weakly - again, we read the requirements for the dishes in the instructions. 90% of induction hob malfunctions are associated with the wrong cookware.The induction hob turns on automatically although there is no cookware on the hotplate. Remove all metal objects and clean the stove from salt, if this does not help, you have a problem in the control unit, it needs to be repaired or replaced. Better to contact the service.The induction hob does not work ... The principle of diagnostics and repair does not change, specialists first of all check the fuse. then they ring the entire chain for an open circuit and replace the burnt-out part.
The last type of cooking appliances is a gas surface. One of the simplest and easiest to repair with your own hands. Less electronics are used, so there are not many faults and everything is easily eliminated.
Gas does not ignite or ignites poorly. We immediately check the electric ignition (piezo) for the presence of blockage or liquid. In 90% of cases, it is enough to wash it thoroughly and dry it. If this does not help, we check the presence of electricity in the circuit leading to the piezo coil.
The gas hob does not turn on because gas does not flow to the burner. Repair of hobs in these cases is not needed, prevention is enough. We check the gas pipe, if the valve is open and there is gas in the system, proceed to check the nozzles. The clogging occurs with fat or food debris, it is enough to clean it. Do not forget to wipe dry after cleaning, moisture should not remain. If moisture remains, the piezo will not ignite.
Modern hobs are equipped with sensors for detecting faults and diagnostic modules, an error code appears on the screen. We find the code in the instructions and follow the specified recommendations to eliminate a specific malfunction. Use the forums, there you can find real reviews and experiences on DIY repair from specialists and other users, namely your model with detailed instructions and photos.
If we analyze all the malfunctions of hobs that may occur during operation, we can say with confidence that most of them can be repaired by hand.
Fuse blown
Contact broke
The chain is broken
Cable damage
Clogged stove, nozzles
The heating element broke
Sensor does not work
All these malfunctions are eliminated by hand, if you are faced with a more complex problem and are not sure of your knowledge and strength, contact the service center.
What do you need for daily food preparation? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home "hearth".
a kerosene burner - 5 decades ago it was a staple in any kitchen;
a gas stove is by far the most widespread "hearth";
electric stove - can be a separate element or an integrated component of the kitchen.
Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the cooking process), no one thought about the appearance of the electric stove.
Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive apparatus:
frame;
heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
thermostat (not present in every model);
mechanical heating regulator (spiral resistance switch).
It was possible to repair such a plate with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: a nichrome wire was wound on a regular pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden frame. The steel bar was inserted into the chuck and the winding process was much faster.
Then fashion trends of modern design came into the kitchen, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. There are hobs that are built into the worktop.
Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they have extended functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, and there are various security systems. Most of the products are equipped with touch control panels; a mechanical handle is not found even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.
The conventional spiral in ceramic insulator holders has long been discontinued. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect:
Having figured out the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.
If one of the burners does not work, you can survive. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged money for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.
Breakage of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more a mechanical than an electrical problem, the parts are quite repairable. As a last resort (eg halogen heater) simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor switches. They are not the most difficult elements to repair.
Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, repairing these elements will not work. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.
Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be eliminated without disassembling the structure.
For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the direct power cable from the panel (including the outlet, if present). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the terminal block of the plate.
If the control panel does not work, check its dryness (if there are movable keys) and cleanliness (in the sensor unit). Oftentimes, a layer of dried spray just prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.
Panels that are built into the kitchen worktop are most often used. The appliance has an independent body with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully take out the panel and place it face down on a flat surface. It is recommended to disconnect the supply wires before starting disassembly. It will not be superfluous to remind you that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.
After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in a so-called working "trough" without separating barriers. The illustration shows a variant where HiLight heaters are installed on all burners.
Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When the fault is localized, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.
For example, you can remove a heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its functionality with the instrument.
Fault diagnostics is carried out from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring and the performance of the heating elements. The on-off control of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let this confuse you. All the same, the power supply is supplied by ordinary relays, which are checked with a multimeter.
A burnt-out spiral (tape) is usually replaced entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and the connection with a screw terminal for the spiral). This will allow the stove to work again for some time. Such a "splice" will live for several days, so buy a new spare part in the very near future.
Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.
The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, it is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.
As for the burnt wiring, you should pick up a wire with similar characteristics, make the whole harness, and replace it using limit switches.
Contact groups are checked for strength and thermal damage before reassembly, cleaned and reassembled.
If after checking it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain.Self-repair is possible only if you have specialized skills and a detailed electrical diagram.
If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to the brand workshop. It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar model of the hob. You can install the repaired or new unit yourself.
Some craftsmen restore the hob to work by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly with a direct connection, this method has the right to life.
Only experienced electricians can repair induction hobs. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.
The induction hotplate either does not turn on at all, or the power is lost immediately after starting work. This can be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating plane, or the size does not correspond to the diameter of the hotplate, the automation will block the operation. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
The same problem (wrong cookware) can lead to the induction hob not working at full capacity.
Self-switching on of the heater may be due to contamination of the plate, or the presence of a massive steel (cast iron) object next to it.
Real malfunctions, not related to a violation of the operating mode, manifest themselves in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails very rarely.
Typical diagram in the illustration:
In fact, there is no space technology here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly "burnt" radioelements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, there is no point in explaining the principle of checking the inductor generator, your level is sufficient for repair.
If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.
With the exception of a minimum percentage of real factory faults, most failures occur due to a violation of the connection and operation mode.
unstable mains voltage damages the electronics;
the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips through which moisture penetrates into the case.
But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.
VIDEO
First, let's talk about how to repair an electric hob and what kind of malfunctions this version of the stove may have. Most often, owners are faced with a situation when the hob does not work or one of the burners does not heat up when the power is connected.
In this case, the repair is reduced to the fact that you need to perform the following steps:
Check the voltage at the outlet, because perhaps it was this electrical point that was out of order, as a result of which there is no power.
Carefully inspect the cord and plug for mechanical damage. Sometimes this is where the repair ends - you just need to replace the electrical plug or cord.
Remove the hob from the worktop by disconnecting all wires and unscrewing the fastening strips.
Use a multimeter to check the thermal fuse (pictured below) and the transformer. If there is no resistance or differs from the nominal, you need to replace the circuit elements with new ones.
Check all wire connections (on the control unit, switches, thermostat, burners) and make sure that there is no trivial open circuit. First, try to visually find the fault, and then use a multimeter to ring all sections of the circuit according to the diagram.
Often, finding a breakdown of an electric hob with your own hands is not difficult if you know how to handle a multimeter. In the absence of this device, you can use an indicator screwdriver, which will show the presence of voltage in a certain section of the circuit.
In addition, I would like to tell you why the hob may stop working, so that you know the cause of the malfunctions and how to repair each. So, among the main breakdowns, the following are most common:
Immediately, we recommend watching a visual video instruction, which shows how to properly repair an electrical surface:
VIDEO If your induction hob does not work, there may also be several reasons for the malfunction. For your attention, an overview of the main faults and methods of repair on your own:
Repair instructions for an induction cooker are provided in the video:
VIDEO Well, the last option for equipment that can fail is a gas stove. If your gas hob does not work, there are not many reasons for malfunctions. Usually problems arise with the piezoelectric element and the nozzle from which the gas is supplied.
So, to your attention, the causes of breakdowns and how to repair the hob with your own hands:
Pieza ignites poorly. In this case, check the electric ignition of the burner for blockages. If the ignition is really clogged, wash it and wipe it thoroughly with a dry cloth after washing.
Gas does not flow. First check to see if the tap on the gas pipe itself is closed. After that, get to the nozzle and check if it is clean. The reason why the gas can stop flowing or is supplied weakly is most often the contamination of the nozzle with fat or food. Repairing such a malfunction will not be difficult, the main thing is, after washing, thoroughly wipe off the water with a dry cloth.
These are all the main malfunctions of a gas hob. Sometimes incorrect operation can be caused by improper installation of kitchen appliances. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with how to properly connect an electric hob with your own hands!
VIDEO In addition, it should be noted that most standard breakdowns can be indicated by a code on the display, with an additional intermittent signal sounding. This code is the name of the error, which can be found in the attached instructions. To repair here or another malfunction on an existing error, you can find it on the thematic forums and read the reviews of those who have already encountered this problem and, perhaps, know why the equipment beeps.
Finally, I would like to summarize that most often the electric hob does not work due to a fuse failure or a broken contact. The least often the control unit breaks down, which is already difficult to repair yourself. We hope that now you know why this technique breaks down and what to do for DIY repair!
Related materials:
VIDEO
VIDEO
VIDEO
1. Shutdown when heating one or more heating elements or continuous operation at maximum power, errors on the display:
Cause : In most cases, these are malfunctions in the constituent components of the electronic control module due to overheating, voltage surges or incorrect connection!
Elimination methods:
Replacing the electronic module (the most expensive option, the price of a new module reaches 80% of the cost of the electric stove as a whole).
Repair of the electronic module (the cost of this method is significantly lower than replacement + prevention of possible breakdowns in the future is being carried out), this type of repair of the hob is as follows:
The hob is removed from the tabletop, disassembled to access the electronic module (control board), then the engineer, using special equipment, diagnoses all the elements of this unit and, having identified the malfunction, eliminates it by replacing the faulty electronic components. After the work performed, the hob is assembled and installed in its original place for testing in all operating modes, after testing the electrical appliance, a warranty card is issued to you indicating the work performed, and recommendations are given to prevent malfunctions typical for this model of the stove.
2. Heating element or element zone not included:
Cause : In most cases, this is caused by long and intensive use of this element, non-observance of the diameter of the dishes, natural production!
Elimination methods:
Replacing the heating element.
A malfunction is diagnosed both visually and by the presence of resistance on the heating element, in the absence of which the heating element is considered faulty and is replaced with a new one.
Replacement of the power switch of the heating element occurs if the heating element itself is in good condition and the supply line is in good condition, it is determined by the presence of a contact, it is corrected by repairing it (if appropriate) or replacing it with a new one.
Defective units must also be correctly diagnosed and, in case of inoperability, replaced with new ones.
This article will focus on repairing touch-sensitive hobs. Unfortunately, in most cases, it is not always possible to repair them with your own hands. However, first things first.
In case you have mechanical control, which is usually the case for dependent panels or for stationary electric stoves, then you can read about faults here. Everything else I will divide into two parts: what happens and what cannot be repaired by hand.
If the touch control works, you can change the power, turn on and off the hotplate, but at the same time the hotplate either constantly works, and it starts working immediately as soon as you turn on the hob, or it does not work, regardless of the mode that you set through the sensor, then malfunctions of two types can be distinguished:
If the hotplate heats up immediately when the hob is turned on and does not respond to changes in modes, then it is most likely that you have a sticking of the relay contacts, which is responsible for this hotplate. Here you need to check the relay contacts. Relays usually have two pairs of contacts. One pair comes with food. When power is applied, the coil draws in the core, which closes the contacts. The second pair is just the contacts that the relay controls. The most likely reason is the welding of the contacts. In principle, if you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, then you can try to replace the relay with your own hands. You need to check two things: whether the power supply to the relay coil is turned off and whether the relay contacts open. If the coil power appears immediately when the panel is turned on, then you will have to go to a repair shop. If the coil power appears when you turn on the hotplate with the touch panel, then you need to check the control contacts. But in this case, as a rule, they are always closed. If the problem is in the relay, then in any case, a replacement will be required.
If the relay is working properly, but the burner does not work, while the power is supplied to the relay, and the power contacts are closed, then we read here how to determine the malfunction of the burner.
If this is a new panel that you installed yourself, or, suddenly, half of the panel stops working, or the sensor works, but the burners do not turn on, then look at the terminal block. In touch panels, the terminals in the block can be distributed in this way: one terminal is responsible for powering the electronics, the other two power the burners. That is, the situation when the electronics is working, the touch panel shows that the power of the burners is regulated, but the burners themselves do not work at the same time.
There may be two repairable problems and one conditionally repairable problem.
The sensor is triggered with some delay. Some manufacturers have deliberately made this delay to prevent accidental pressing. That is, in order for the sensor to trigger, you need to put your finger in the required area and wait a little (usually up to two seconds), after which the sensors will react quickly for some time (sometimes any sensor triggering occurs with a delay - the triggering algorithm is determined by the manufacturer).
Child lock might be worth it. Read the instructions for your panel about the lock or child protection mode.
It is possible that the glass above the touch panel or on the back side is somehow dirty. If wiping the glass does not help, then you will have to contact the service center.
Some hobs have a heating function. Usually, in this case, the display does not show 0, but the crockery icon | _ | (like half zero). In this case, the hotplate does not turn off completely, but goes into heating mode. Water, for example, will not boil in this mode, but will remain very hot until you turn off the hotplate or an automatic shutdown occurs, if provided by the manufacturer.
This is most likely not a malfunction. The cooking temperature in touch-sensitive hobs is adjusted by turning it on and off. The more the power is set, the less frequent shutdowns occur and the longer the turn-on period. At maximum setting, the hotplate works without switching off, except in case of overheating of the hotplate. In this case, the temperature sensor will be triggered. As soon as the hotplate cools down, the temperature sensor is triggered and the hotplate turns on again.
The malfunction can be conditionally removable and not. I wrote about this malfunction here. In this case, replacing the temperature sensor will help.
There may be a malfunction of another kind. The problem may lie in the electronics, then you will have to go to the workshop.
This is where the conditionally repaired malfunctions end, so we turn to the malfunctions that you are unlikely to cope with on your own. Therefore, to eliminate them, you will have to contact a specialized workshop. I do not particularly recommend contacting service centers. High-class specialists rarely sit in them, and often you overpay for some services. Therefore, it is better to contact private companies. Repair can be much cheaper, but you need to carefully approach the choice of the company.
This usually happens with panels that are many years old. This is largely due to electrolytic capacitors, which lose their capacity over time. In theory, you can try to replace them. In practice, such a replacement helps only 50%. In this case, especially if the panels are more than 10 years old, it makes sense to think about buying a new one.
This includes all other faults that have not been considered.
Video (click to play).
Summarize.The malfunctions of analog elements, that is, non-electronic ones, can be considered conditionally removable. In this case, if you have the necessary skills, you can try to fix the problem yourself. When it comes to electronics, it is unlikely that someone will advise you on the Internet, because when it comes to electronics, it is not always possible to immediately determine the reason, even when the master directly examines the panel. And it's even more difficult to explain what a diode, transistor and other electronic components look like.
