Replenishment in the VAZ family of cars took place in 1980. It was then that the first car of the so-called 2nd generation appeared, namely the VAZ 2105. The car is rear-wheel drive, has 5 doors and a sedan body type. Currently, there are few fans of such an instance left, but this model has not yet been forgotten. It is still used today, since the VAZ 2105 is a real draft horse and often helps in work.
The operation of this car is a little different from the use of modern cars, and it is difficult to drive it in comparison with the latest models. If you have a similar machine, you should carefully study the manual for its repair.
These are the main malfunctions of the VAZ 2105 engine. The motorist also does not hurt to remember how the car should be used correctly.
Do not use the maximum auto speed mode at first. The driver needs to get used to driving the VAZ 2105. If you choose the wrong speed of the car while driving, then you risk damaging the elements of the front suspension, causing bending of the rear axle beam. Also, at the maximum speed of movement, rapid tire wear is possible, and increased vibration of the body will lead to instability of the car.
This model has a soft suspension. It is able to dampen vibrations even at high speeds. However, sharp impacts should not be allowed. They can deform the lower arm pivots. Due to the constant increased vibration, the remaining parts of the undercarriage also wear out quickly. You also need to ensure that the car is not subjected to unnecessary stress. The weight of cargo that can be carried in the trunk and on the roof must not exceed 50 kg. It should be noted that the operation of a VAZ 21053 car is very similar to using the 5th model.
Everyone knows that the machine is not always in use. For a certain amount of time, it is stored in the garage or in the parking lot. It should be remembered that the storage location of the car also plays an important role. The best option is a canopy, in which constant ventilation is carried out and an appropriate temperature is maintained.
Contents: Prestarting heater Types, features of work Installation of equipment on a car.
Contents: Some nuances Antifreeze heater 220 V Heating device.
Contents: Longfei heaters. Design features Models and their characteristics “Little.
Contents: Types of heaters, features of "Alliance-2-PC" "Alliance" "Alliance -07" "Alliance-08" etc.
Contents: Viscosity Oil type Gear oil Video - What kind of oil is in a car.
Contents: Gearbox maintenance Common faults Eliminating noise Difficulty shifting.
Contents: Gearbox device Difference between 4-speed and 5-speed gearboxes Dismantling.
Contents: Timing features Stages of work, tools Preparatory work Sequence of adjustment.
Contents: Main components. Complete circuit and arrangement of light and sound elements.
One of the design features of the gas distribution mechanisms of VAZ engines of classic models.
Contents: A little theory When you need to bleed the brakes Tools Work.
Contents: Detonation - what is it Detonation and glow ignition.
Contents: Preparing a car for the winter period Starting the engine with a carburetor.
Contents: Tools Required Signs of a valve clearance violation How to check the clearance.
Contents: Features of the timing chain and belt Required tools Replacement.
Soviet-made cars are easy to operate and maintain. Do-it-yourself VAZ 2105 repair can be carried out in the garage. We are not talking about major repairs, but about adjusting and repairing some malfunctions.
Classic "Zhiguli" pyaterochka, white.
VAZ 2105 is a small class Soviet model. The five first appeared in 1980. The last model 2105 rolled off the assembly line in September 2012.
VAZ 2105 was created on the basis of the 1966 Italian Fiat 124 car.
The second name of the VAZ 2105 is "Zhiguli" five. After the collapse of the USSR, the model was renamed Lada 2105.
VAZ 2105 was presented in a large number of modifications. Manufacturers released versions of the model for security services and rallies.
VAZ 2105 - a modified model of VAZ 2101. Borrowed the body and suspension parts from the progenitor of 2105. The rest of the nodes have been revised.
Interior elements are made of low quality plastic. Car owners complain about the appearance of crickets. Small interior space of the cabin - three people in the back seat will be cramped. For 30 years, manufacturers have not made significant changes to the interior of the car.
Low level noise isolation. There is the hum of a running engine in the car.
Export cars VAZ 2105 were equipped with a 1.3-liter engine. For the domestic market, manufacturers produced a model with only a 1.5-liter power unit.
The engine inherited the cylinder block from the VAZ-2101. The manufacturers abandoned the use of a chain, and equipped the motor with a camshaft belt drive. The modification reduced the noise of the power unit. But it didn't fix the problem completely.
The design of the VAZ-2105 is a copy of the entire VAZ "classics". The front part of the suspension is double wishbone, the rear is a continuous axle. For 30 years of the release of global modernizations, the foundations of the structure have not been produced.
VAZ-2105 has retained the shortcomings of the "classics".
Initially, the model was produced with a 4-speed manual transmission. Later models were equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission, which had a positive effect on fuel consumption.
Lada 2105 tuning. Do you recognize?
Fans of the domestic auto industry tune the VAZ 2105. Factory malfunctions are being finalized and the appearance is changed with the help of body kits, car painting, lighting installation.
After changes in the technical indicators of the VAZ-2105, it is necessary to modify the brake system of the car - to update the brake pads, rear calipers.
VIDEO
This section publishes articles on the repair and maintenance of cars of the brand Vaz-2101, Vaz-2103, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Zhiguli ... All materials contain a detailed description of the work done and are supported by photographs. Also, in each article you can familiarize yourself with the list of the necessary tools and devices that will be needed to complete the task. Plus, you can remember the tips for choosing high-quality and reliable spare parts.
Since recently in the section on car repair VAZ 2101-2107, Classic, Zhiguli quite a lot of thematic articles were collected, navigation through the pages of this section has become a little inconvenient, which can cause certain difficulties for site visitors in finding the necessary material. To avoid these difficulties, to facilitate and speed up the search, I suggest using the section site `s map ... I think that you can easily find your way there)))).
Several proven ways to solve the problem that occurs during the replacement of the lower ball joint on cars VAZ 2101-2107, Zhiguli, Classic
If you are reading this text, then it can be assumed that the work on self-replacement of the lower ball joint on your favorite Zhiguli (VAZ 2101-2107) suddenly “stopped”. And the reason for the stop was ball pin nut , which, due to unclear circumstances, refuses to unscrew. Simply, stupidly rotates with the support finger. After that, a natural question arises - “How to unscrew the nut and remove the lower ball joint? “And if you have a question, then you should look for an answer to it. I hope that you will find it on the page of "Auto Repair Schools")))
Replacing the steering column switches (tube) on Vaz-2101, Vaz-2102, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107
The main reasons to replace the steering column switches or, as this part is also called tube on cars VAZ 2101-2107 are: faulty switch contacts (turns do not work, high or low beam headlights do not work), mechanical wear of the petal (spring-loaded contact) of the sound signal , breakage of the lever or control levers (sometimes one awkward movement is enough and the lever cannot be glued to the steering column switch block). I think everything is clear here. And, I dare to assume that if you are reading these lines, then at least one of the problems / breakdowns listed above happened with the steering column switch on your car. If I'm right then.
A small article supplementing these materials with useful information - replacement of crosspieces on VAZ 2101-2107 cars and tips for choosing and checking crosses for VAZ 2101-2107 ... It will focus on how to quickly determine which brand of propeller shaft is installed on your car. Which, of course, will help to give a final answer to the question: Which crosses to buy - Vaz 2101-2202025 or Vaz 2105-2202025? I think that every happy owner of Zhiguli asks himself a similar question, at least once in his life. And therefore, I hope that this material will be useful and in demand.
Recommendations for the selection and inspection of cardan shaft crosses for cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107
I invite you to read a small article, the purpose of which is - assistance in the selection and verification of the suitability of the cardan shaft crosspieces of cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107 ... Visitors to my blog convinced me of the need to write this article. How? Yes, very simple. In a fairly short period of time, by email, through the “Question-Answer” section and the feedback form, I received several similar questions from them - Which manufacturer's crosspiece to choose for my car? What high-quality and reliable crosspiece can be put on the Vaz-2103? What to look for when buying crosspieces for the drive shaft for the Classics? What is the difference between the Vaz-2101 crosses and the Vaz-2105?
A few days ago, I received two requests at once from visitors to my blog to write an article to replace the rear brake pads on the popular and invincible Classic ... Even, I myself was somehow surprised that in the presence of a large amount of materials for repairing VAZ 2101-2107 cars, there is still no article on replacing the rear brake pads on the page of your favorite blog! Therefore, it was decided, in the shortest possible time, to correct the annoying oversight and satisfy the requests of the blog visitors “Auto repair school “. In general, please meet.
And so, the reasons why you should start replacement of rear brake pads on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic - the thickness of the lining of the rear brake pads less than 2mm , the lining of one of the pads has come off the metal surface (brake pads are always changed as a set).
Replacement of brake discs and front brake pads on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic, Zhiguli
Continuing the braking theme))). This time we will talk about replacing brake discs on the beloved and not submerged Classics. I will not stretch out the introduction, I will immediately get down to business. The reasons why you should go to the car market, buy discs, pads and start replacing them. The first reason, brake disc thickness less than 9mm ... The second reason is the appearance of beating in the steering wheel and vibration in the chassis when the car stops. This is usually due to uneven wear or deformation of the brake disc. Yes, you can try to grind the disc. But, a trip to the turner will be justified if, after cutting the disc, you do not return to the first reason. So, if there is a beating during braking, it will be easier, faster, and ultimately cheaper to buy new brake discs.
How to independently remove the rear brake pressure regulator on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic, Zhiguli
In the “Question-Answer” section, I am often asked similar questions that can be collected into one general topic - a problem with the rear brakes on cars VAZ 2101-2107, Classic, Zhiguli ... Yes, this is exactly the problem, despite the fact that the braking system of the Zhiguli is not complicated and, as it might seem, any breakdown can be solved with a simple repair. But, suddenly, the car's brakes become ineffective or the rear wheels, in general, stop braking, and it is also possible to wedge one rear (in some cases both) wheels for no apparent reason. Standard actions, in the form replacing the rear brake pads, brake cylinders and parking brake cable with subsequent bleeding of the brakes does not solve the problem .
Replacing the ignition lock or contact group on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic
Ignition lock (ignition switch) on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 , and if it's easier to say in folk classics, they usually change in two cases. The first is the failure of the secret of the castle. In this case, the key turns with difficulty, wedges and may simply refuse to turn. Funds in the form of VD-40 or brake fluid usually give a temporary result. Therefore, replacing the ignition switch is inevitable. The second reason for replacement is burning of the contact group (photo 1). If the contacts on the chip are burnt, it will be quite difficult to start the car, you can turn the key to the “start” position two, three, four times and not hear the sound of the starter. To check, you can take the "control", connect one end of it to the negative terminal on the battery, and connect the other to the small terminal on the retractor relay or to the 50 wire connector chip. In order not to explain for a long time, look at photo 1A.
Materials for the repair of the VAZ 2105 engine. Video of the manual for the repair with your own hands. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 engine. You can independently assemble, replace, adjust the VAZ 2105 engine. We will answer any questions you may have about the VAZ 2105 engine.
Materials for the repair of the VAZ 2105 suspension. Video of the manual for repair with your own hands. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 suspension. You can independently assemble, replace, adjust your suspension on the VAZ 2105. We will answer any questions you may have about the VAZ 2105 suspension.
Materials for the repair of the VAZ 2105 gearbox. DIY video repair manual. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 gearbox. Replacing the clutch, removing the gearbox and replacing it with a new one. Many different articles on the repair of a manual transmission VAZ 2105.
Materials for the repair of the body VAZ 2105. Video of the manual for repair with your own hands. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 body. Replacing old body parts, welding the bottom, replacing thresholds, replacing fenders, installing a bumper, replacing a windshield and much more.
Materials for the repair of the VAZ 2105 interior. Video of the manual for the repair with your own hands. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 interior. Replacing the interior trim, repairing the glove compartment, adjusting the deflectors, replacing the interior lighting. You will tell you how to remake a VAZ 2105 salon with your own hands.
Brake system VAZ 2105
Materials for the repair of VAZ 2105 brakes. Video manuals on repair with your own hands. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105 brake system. Replacing the front and rear pads. Installation of disc brakes on a VAZ 2105. We will show you how to properly bleed the brakes on a VAZ 2105.
Materials for the repair and replacement of VAZ 2105 headlights. DIY video repair manual. In this section you will find all the necessary information on the repair and maintenance of a VAZ 2105 electrician. Replacing low and high beam lamps. Replacement and repair of front and rear lights. Replacing the fuses. Headlight adjustment. And much more.
Materials for the repair and maintenance of the VAZ 2105. Video of the manual for the repair with your own hands. In this section you will find the necessary literature on the repair of the VAZ 2105. Books on the maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2105. You can download the books you need for free. Any necessary literature on the repair of a VAZ "Five" car.
One of the most popular cars produced by the VAZ plant is the Zhiguli five , namely VAZ 2105 "Zhiguli". This car left the assembly line back in 1980. By its format, the VAZ Five is a rear-wheel drive four-door sedan designed for five passengers. Later, on the basis of this model, no less well-known models appeared:
– VAZ-2107 ;
The external exterior of the car fully corresponded to its time, namely the eighties. The body of the five consisted of straight lines, the bumper is made of aluminum, volumetric rectangular headlights. Further, it makes no sense to describe the external data of the well-known five. Even after more than 30 years, this car remains recognizable and popular.
Initially, the VAZ-2107 was equipped with a carburetor engine with a volume of 1.3. But there were also complete sets of engines using oil filters, like 2101. The engines on this model were constantly modernized, making them more powerful and durable.
Technical characteristics of the VAZ-2105: the engine has a volume of 1.3 and a power of 64 hp. The dimensions of the body exterior are as follows: length - 4130 mm, width - 1620 mm, height - 1446 mm. The road clearance is adapted to our off-road and is 17 centimeters. But the trunk has a small volume, only 385 liters. Combined fuel consumption is about 10 liters per 100 km.
The VAZ-2105 model also fell in love with it because it is not whimsical enough to maintain. This allows, if possible, to do not complicated repairs and tuning with your own hands.
Despite frequent repairs and the inability to meet the standards of modern automotive industry, the VAZ-2105 remains one of the most popular models. Low starting cost, ease of repair and maintenance, makes this model truly popular.
The repair of the chassis in a VAZ 2106 car is similar to repairs on the VAZ 2107 model, therefore, if you are the owner of the seventh Zhiguli model, then this video with detailed instructions will help you troubleshoot the chassis.
VIDEO
I changed the front springs. The Zhigul looked like a Tatru. The wheels went to the razvalku. The car does not sit down. What to do?
VAZ 2106 and 2107 are classics of the domestic auto industry. But what lover of dashing driving would not like to make his car more powerful and at the same time keep the amount of fuel consumed? Experienced mechanics know that for this it is only necessary to tidy up the car's carburetor and carry out timely repairs.
For any VAZ car, from 2101 to 2107, only certain carburetor models are suitable.
Carburetors DAAZ 2101, 2103, 2106. They were produced at the Dmitrov Avtoagregatny Plant, which bought a license from the Italian company Weber, therefore these carburetors can be indicated under both names. The devices did not differ in the complexity of the design, but they could please their owners with a fast acceleration of the car and good speed. One of the biggest problems in installing these models is that they are virtually unavailable on the market.
In addition to speed and simplicity, Weber carburetors also provided incredibly fast fuel consumption - these "monsters" ate 10-14 liters per 100 km. fuel.
More technologically advanced models, which were already installed in VAZ 2105 and 2107 cars, were also produced at the Dmitrov Avtoagregatny Plant. However, they were not only more advanced and improved, but also more environmentally friendly. It is for this that they received the name "Ozone". This carburetor made it possible to reduce fuel consumption to 7-10 liters. per 100 km, while maintaining the dynamic characteristics of their predecessors. The downside of the device was the complexity of its assembly and constant contamination in one of the chambers, which led to the fact that the acceleration of the car deteriorated noticeably, the speed decreased and the engine began to junk.
A little later, DAAZ 21053 carburetors appeared. They were produced under the license of the French company Solex, hence the name of the models. These carburetors were not much like the previous DAAZ models. An updated design with a fuel return system made it possible to store 400-500 ml of fuel per 100 km. These carburettors were distinguished by good power with low gas mileage. The disadvantage of the device was the narrow fuel and air channels, which very often became clogged.
Solex carburettors came in many variations with various auxiliary systems. In the CIS, the option with an electric idle valve has become the most popular.
Often, inquisitive motorists resorted to independent carburetor replacements. One suitable model turned out to be the Solex 21073, famous for its wide jets and channels. Such a carburetor increased the power of the car, but at the same time raised the fuel consumption - 9-12 liters. for 100 km.
The second non-standard carburetor, which with some modifications fits the VAZ 2106 and 2107 models, is the Solex 21083. After expanding the diffusers and installing the nozzles, this device allows you to significantly increase the dynamics of the car without much fuel consumption. However, the process of upgrading the carburetor is very complicated and time consuming.
In order to understand the state of the carburetor in the car, it is enough to carry out a small diagnosis.
Signs of a defective carburetor:
the car began to consume more gasoline than it previously needed;
the engine starts to overheat quickly;
black smoke comes out of the muffler and pops, "sneezing" and "shooting" are heard. These malfunctions appear when the high-voltage wires are incorrectly connected, late ignition, improper operation of the distributor and the ignition system switch, after an unsuccessful repair of the timing belt, with an unsuitable fuel mixture;
the car began to noticeably lose power when driving;
the car accelerates much slower;
failures occur when, when you press the gas pedal, the car does not react instantly, but acceleration occurs gradually and with a delay;
there are jerks - frequent and short dips;
swinging occurs - several dips with a small interval.
It is important to remember that before starting to repair the carburetor, you should diagnose the entire engine power system and its technical condition.
Typical carburetor malfunctions:
There is no fuel in the float chamber or the fuel mixture is too rich / lean. In this case, the car engine does not start at all or starts, but immediately stalls.
Clogged idle channels or nozzles.
The solenoid valve is intermittent.
Malfunctions have appeared in the control unit or among the elements of the forced idle economizer (EPHH).
It starts to malfunction or the rubber O-ring has melted.
Fuel "overflows", the level in the float chamber does not hold. The reason is the depressurization of the fuel valve.
If suddenly your carburetor becomes unusable, do not throw it away. Repair of this important "organ" of the car is the fastest possible replacement of faulty parts. In order to determine which parts need to be replaced, you should disassemble, clean the carburetor and carefully inspect the constituent mechanisms.
The carburetor is removed if a malfunction is found in it, but there is no way to do this by partial disassembly. The carburetor is also removed for replacement, adjustment and cleaning.
It is filmed as follows:
To begin with, all kinds of attachments and cables for the damper drive are removed.
The air filter housing is removed from the studs. To do this, unscrew all the nuts on which it is attached to the carburetor. The clamping nut is pushed back and the air damper cable sheath is pulled out of the mounting bracket.
The outer surface of the parts is cleaned from contamination.
The air damper drive cable is loosened and the fuel supply and crankcase gas discharge hoses are removed.
The hose between the economizer and the pneumatic valve and the hose of the vacuum ignition distributor are disconnected.
Then the nuts are unscrewed, with which the carburetor is attached to the intake manifold.
The carburetor body is removed and the intake manifold opening is plugged with a clean rag to avoid clogging.
Remember to check the integrity of the gasket that is between the carburetor and the intake manifold. Replace it if necessary.
Before you start cleaning the carburetor, you need to carefully prepare: buy a special aerosol cleaner from a car dealer, arm yourself with smooth dry rags, a tire inflation pump, remove the carburetor and disassemble it.
Nozzles - fuel and gas supply channels - are cleaned with compressed air or a liquid pressure cleaner. Mechanical cleaning with any fluffy or metallic objects is prohibited.
When cleaning the nozzles with compressed air (you can use a tire pump for this), the idle nozzle body, the main dosing system (air and fuel), then the valves and the pump sprayer channels are blown through.
In case of severe contamination, the jets are placed in acetone so that the deposits soften or completely dissolve. Then they should be purged.
If there is a corburetor then Sergey Svetlov
Thanks for the video, P. S. you can link to Pokhomov's video exactly where you are watching
Good evening. Sergey, I have the same engine.mileage 135,000, at idle it shakes every time it feels like gaps. changed the gasket, since the gases went out, valve ground, distribution. the shaft has a little backlash, but bearable. collected, launched, shocks remained. there are no errors in computer diagnostics. rinsed the nozzles. during overclocking, too, a failure at the beginning, and then everything is fine. can tell me something. Thank you
Good evening. Sergey, I have the same engine. mileage 135,000, at idle it shakes every time it feels like gaps. changed the gasket, since the gases went out, valve ground, distribution. the shaft has a little backlash, but bearable. collected, launched, shocks remained. there are no errors in computer diagnostics. rinsed the nozzles. during overclocking, too, a failure at the beginning, and then everything is fine. can tell me something. Thank you
Thank you very much, a window to the truth, Thank God there are such people, the officers are hi: let them smoke on the sidelines, if we all do our cars like this, Europe and America will wash and beg for loans
yes the sealant abrd is good I myself use it never nothing has leaked
normal guy positive energy. no nigga
Hi What pressure should the fuel pump be? I connected the pump to the pressure gauge, applied voltage and 3, 8 BAR Is this good or a lot?
about oils. lukoil, which strangely I saw on sale in turkey, and in thailand, although thailand produces oils brands in the auto industry in japan. there was an opportunity to check the characteristics of lukoil and tnc oils in the laboratory, which is interesting in terms of the quality of the temperature runoff in tnc better. At one time, I poured aviation ms 20 for a penny, because there was nothing besides 8ki. I think all oils are not bad, as long as they are not fake. good luck.
What could be the reason for the oiling of the spark plug electrode in all 4 cylinders, the VAZ 21053 injector, it does not seem to eat oil, the exhaust is dry, washed the throttle so there is also an oil deposit in the receiver, maybe the breather is clogged, or what else happens to it? how much does it cost to replace the valve seals? And if it's about rings, how much money and time do you need?
this liquid is probably Nefras, we used it at the plant for washing and degreasing
Sergey Hello Tell me on this issue, I have a classic. When I did the overhaul of the motor, I did not measure the thermal gap on the rings, but set it simply as it is, is it very scary or not? Polish rings. Thank you
Mercedes e 220 is takoyzhezh finished that there are no spare parts on disassembly, well, nifigi and books otoy
Hello Sergey, a volkswagen Passat b3 car, there is a Solex carburetor 21083, constantly different idling rpm, rpm does not float, after load, I transfer to neutral, rpm 500, it almost stalls, you gasp, 800 you gasp 900 again 700 a then 1000, I can't understand why, maybe the damper is jamming, there is no air leak ..
Sdrastvuyte sergey, please tell me how much you beat for the work of a motor repair cap, and how much they charge for a hundred
Hello, Sergei, with the coming holidays, you pulled your head, and then 3 bolts were changed, when those 3 bolts were changed, the rest were unscrewed? I just want to find out if it can be such that I completely pulled the head, unscrewed three bolts, the head can go in a wave after all?
Well, I think that a service station or not a service station, and the car should be serviced on time, regardless of the place of birth of the car. Otherwise, you can grab a problem somewhere in the wrong place and at the wrong time. As for the video, I liked it very much. Thank you. I am one of those who do it with their own hands and there is never enough useful advice. I learned a lot for myself, thanks. I drive VW PASSAT B3. By the way, I advise you this car. German Zhiguli Wait, repair, spare parts are cheaper than VAZ ones. The truth is a bit old already. But with good hands, not a kill AUTO. Thanks, good luck.
Today we are repairing a VAZ 2105 - its starter
The five stopped turning on? It's a problem - you can't go anywhere without it.
Tools
Removing the starter VAZ 2105
Starter repair
Dismantling the starter
Troubleshooting a starter VAZ 2105
Assembling the starter VAZ 2105
Many parts of the starter may be the cause of a non-working starter. So, if, when trying to start the engine, a characteristic click is heard, and then everything is quiet, we can conclude that the retractor relay is faulty and before disassembling the starter completely, try to replace it.
What is useful for starter repair:
Standard set of tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers) Motor oil Sandpaper Multimeter Calipers Have you got everything you need for repairs? Here's a repair manual for a VAZ 2105 starter!
Of course, in order to repair the starter, you first need to remove it from the car.
Advice! Before removing the starter, ALWAYS (!) Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery!
We remove the air filter for convenience. If the car is injector, then it is necessary to unscrew the braces of the intake manifold.
Next, you will need to use a 10 key (most conveniently with a head) to unscrew the bolt securing the starter shield.
Then we take the key 13 and unscrew the wires from the starter retractor relay so as not to tear them off during the removal process.
Then we unscrew the three starter mounting bolts. This operation is performed with the same key at 13. Unscrew the starter shield completely.
Remove the starter motor carefully from the engine compartment of the vehicle.
Removal completed.
Advice! It is better to carry out work on a cold engine so as not to burn your hands on the manifold.
So, the starter is in our hands and you can start disassembling it. The workplace should be clean and there should be nothing superfluous on it - there are many small parts in the starter.
Advice! Before disassembling the starter, be sure to clean it of any dirt! It will be much more convenient this way.
Remove the retractor relay. To do this, use a 13 key to unscrew the nut securing the output wires of the stator winding.
Now we start disassembling the stator. It is secured with two pins. We unscrew them with a head 10 or with a regular key.
Now we are faced with a planetary mechanism, which also needs to be disassembled.
First, pry the main gear with a screwdriver, and then all the others. Pay attention to the degree of wear.
Now you need to remove the starter drive. To do this, we pry the support of the lever (forks) and remove the drive, shaft, lever and outer gear assembly.
We knock down the retaining ring from the gear, remove it.
Then remove the drive from the shaft. There is also a retaining ring - remove that too.
Let's go back to disassembling the stator. The back cover is screwed on with two Phillips screwdriver screws.
The brush assembly is removed quite simply - pry it with a screwdriver and remove. Next, the thrust washer is removed and the armature is removed from the stator.
As a matter of fact, the dismantling of the starter is over.
Now let's turn our attention to what parts could become unusable, as well as whether they are worth changing or "still resemble":
Solenoid relay. Checked with a multimeter.
If the continuity is working or shows a resistance close to zero, then the relay is working. If not, the relay changes.
The core of the solenoid relay must move freely in it.There should be no chips, scratches, scuffs and so on on the case.
Windings. Burning traces are strictly prohibited.
The presence of chips and other mechanical damage is not allowed on the surface of the collector.
Starter Bendix. The description of its malfunction was set out above.
The brushes (see Replacing the starter brush and all about it) should have a height of 12 mm - this is the minimum. If the brushes on your starter are worn out more than permissible (checked with a caliper), then they need to be replaced!
Planetary gear. Examine all gears carefully - each of them for mechanical damage.
And if they are all damaged, then the whole mechanism should be changed. After assembly, check the ease of rotation of the gears.
And the last one is testing the armature and stator windings. The stator is checked as follows.
We connect the multimeter to the winding terminals and look at the readings - the resistance should not tend to infinity.
We connect one wire of the multimeter to the case, the second to the contact plates. The resistance in this case should also be about 10 kOhm.
If something is wrong, as in this manual, the part must be replaced.
Everyone knows the words - the order of assembly is the reverse of the order of disassembly. As trite as it sounds, it really is.
VIDEO
Lubrication. Where should she be?
Tighten all fasteners without fanaticism - do not look for yourself unnecessary problems.
The axial play of the armature shaft casing should not exceed 0.5 mm (checked with a vernier caliper). It is adjusted by adjusting washers in case of deviation from normal.
Install the retaining rings carefully, as they have a very bad property to fly over there to that end of the garage, and then you will not find it. And without it, you cannot install in any case.
Well, our starter is assembled and now you can install it on the car with a clear conscience.
We insert the VAZ 2105 starter into the seat.
Then we fix it with three fastening bolts.
Then the starter shield should be installed back.
Now the next step is to connect all the necessary wires back to the solenoid relay. Next, reinstall the braces (on an injection car) or install the air filter housing (on a carburetor car).
Connect the negative terminal back to the battery and you can try to start your favorite car.
Video (click to play).
Brief conclusion. Do-it-yourself starter repair is not difficult, but quite economical.
