Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2106 adjustment

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2106 adjustment from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The legendary "six", which was almost the main car in the country, is less and less common on our roads. Now, few people specialize in the repair and maintenance of VAZ classics, and it is rather difficult to find a master for setting up its power system. However, any car owner is able to independently establish a unit for preparing a combustible mixture, it is enough to use the recommendations of experienced drivers.

Before adjusting the carburetor on the VAZ 2106, it does not hurt to find out its design features. After 1980, Ozone and Solex began to be installed on Togliatti cars. The point of operation of the unit is the preparation of a combustible mixture before feeding it into the cylinders of the car. To the subtleties, this is not a driving school, we will not disassemble the structure, it is enough to get acquainted with the main components that ensure the optimal operation of the carburetor ICE:

Fuel dosing system.
Mechanisms for throttle valve control and mixture enrichment.
Idling system.
Accelerator pump and econostat.
Float chamber.

A chamber with a float and a needle valve is responsible for the stability of the fuel level. Further, gasoline, flowing through the spray pipe, enters the chamber, where it mixes with air from the inlet pipe. The amount of the mixture is adjusted by the throttle valve, which is associated with the accelerator pedal.

Fine adjustment allows the correct mixture of gasoline and air to be prepared in a 1:15 ratio. In the process of long-term operation of the machine, the settings go astray and you have to think about how to adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 car on your own. The adjustment technology is the same for both Solex and Ozone.

Video (click to play).

Setting up the carburetor assembly is no more difficult than adjustment of the clutch drive on the VAZ 2107 since it only involves adjusting the jets. In some cases, they need to be cleaned of resins and other contaminants, the presence of contaminants is felt by power failures during the acceleration process. Many car owners claim that Ozone carburetors are not a good option and recommend replacing them with Solex.

Nevertheless, the signs that the device has begun to prepare a rich mixture, and its adjustment is needed, are the same for both types of units:

Increased fuel consumption.
Frequent overheating of the motor.
Black smoke from the exhaust pipe and pops.
Loss of power.

Lean mixture preparation is characterized by the following features:

Pops in the carburetor.
Loss of power.
Overheating of the engine.

Of course, you don't always need to grab onto the screwdriver and turn the adjusting screws right away - it may be something else. For example, when the idle speed is floating, air may leak through the intake manifold gasket, and there may be a breakdown of the brake booster diaphragm. But even the reasons listed are not all options, so specific recipes for eliminating certain problems cannot be given. The issue should be solved in a complex way, taking into account the connection between the vehicle systems.

A full-fledged setting of the unit for the preparation of a combustible mixture requires a systematic approach. The whole cycle consists of the sequential execution of the following stages:

Preliminary phase.
Float adjustment.
Idle speed adjustment.
Adjustment of the carburetor unit rod ends.

Before, how to properly adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 with your own hands, it is important to perform a number of work activities:

Adjust the thermal clearances of the timing mechanism.
Set the optimum ignition timing.
Open the air damper fully.

All work on setting up the carburetor unit is carried out on a warm engine. Do not forget that during the process you may need new parts and rubber products, so it is better to purchase a repair kit in advance.

One of the main stages in setting up the carburetor unit. A high level will produce a "rich" mixture, and more of it will be supplied to the cylinders, but the expected dynamics will not be there. Only fuel consumption will increase, as well as its toxicity.

The float tongue must be set so that its travel is no more than 8 mm. In some cases, the needle valve may be the cause of the problem. Then you need to remove the float, pull out the needle and check the patency of the holes.

The process involves two screws that set the quantity and quality of the mixture. For a high-quality setting, the presence of a gas analyzer will not interfere. Before adjusting the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 car, you need to know about the restrictive plastic bushings that are pressed onto the adjusting screws. These plugs prevent you from breaking the factory settings. If this factor interferes with setting normally XX, then break them off with a slotted screwdriver.

Idle speed control technology:

With the air damper open, set the crankshaft speed to 800-900 rpm with the quality screw.
Turning the quality screw, set the maximum engine speed.
Set the rotational speed of 950-1030 rpm by the number screw on the tachometer.
Set the maximum speed again with the quality screw.
Repeat these operations until the moment when the speed of 950-1030 rpm does not coincide with the maximum speed set using the quality screw.
After the moment of coincidence, return the quality screw to the position where the engine speed was 800-900 rpm.

In the presence of a gas analyzer, the quality screw achieves a CO concentration in the exhaust gases of 0.5-1.2%. The final position of the screws must be fixed with a plastic sealant to prevent spontaneous loosening.

An equally important stage in the process of adjusting the carburetor of the "six" is carried out according to the transitions:

Dismantle the air filter and its housing.
Measure the distance between the center points of the tips, it should be 80 mm.
To change the length of the rod, release the tip with a screwdriver and unscrew the lock nut with a “8” wrench, and then adjust by rotating the tip.
Tighten the fasteners and install the rod to its original place, start the engine and press the gas pedal all the way. If the throttle does not open completely, then the damper has a power reserve.

When asked how to further adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 car, experts recommend performing a few more simple steps:

Remove the longitudinal type rod end and unscrew the lock nut.
Reduce the length of the rod, fix it and again check the degree of opening of the damper by pressing the gas pedal to the floor. The damper must be absolutely closed.
If you need to increase the length of the link, you must loosen the throttle cable.

Checking the adjustments of the mixture preparation unit is as important a maintenance step as battery condition monitoring car. An integrated approach to setting up the carburetor guarantees not only a comfortable travel mode, but also a lot of useful points:

An increase in power and a steady set of speed.
Absence of failures in the operation of the internal combustion engine in the low and medium speed sector.
Improved dynamic performance - the car picks up speed faster and accelerates in a short time.
Optimum engine response, which translates into responsiveness of the gas pedal.

The listed qualities make it possible to effectively use the combustible mixture, which is necessary both in urban traffic jams and on suburban roads.Therefore, competent adjustment of the carburetor unit will help the car pick up speed in a timely manner and make the planned maneuver.

The carburetor is an integral part that prepares the fuel mixture for the engine. Its task is to ensure the correct mixing ratio of air with gasoline. The ratio is considered ideal: 1 portion of gasoline for 15 portions of air. During operation, the adjustment of the VAZ 2106 carburetor gradually gets lost, which leads to excessive enrichment or depletion of the fuel mixture with gasoline.

If the carburetor starts producing a rich mixture, you will understand this by the following signs:

Fuel consumption increases
Loud exhaust is heard in the muffler and the smoke turns black

If the engine receives a lean mixture, you will understand this by the following sign:

Loud bangs are heard from under the hood.

In both cases, the engine heats up noticeably more, and its power is lost.

If you encounter this problem, remember that it is a natural consequence of using the carburetor. Any element of the car requires care, regular inspection and maintenance. Therefore, from time to time, the VAZ 2106 carburetor should be tuned.

Before proceeding with the adjustment, you need to make sure that the failure of any element inside the device has not become the cause of the breakdown. You need to disassemble it, rinse and clean it. And only after you are convinced of the complete serviceability of all components of the structure, you can start adjusting.

The easiest option is to send the car to a specialist. Carburetors have a special tool available - a gas analyzer. With this device, you can achieve the most efficient system configuration. However, the services of specialists in this profile are not cheap. You may want to do all the work yourself, using the means at hand. Next, we will look at how to set up the carburetor step by step.

Check the length between the tips. The required size is 80 millimeters.
If you deviate from this size, take out one tip.
We loosen its lock nut and, by rotating, adjust the distance to the desired size.
Tighten the nut and return the traction.
You need to check the adjustment. To do this, our assistant squeezes the gas pedal. We observe the throttle valve - whether it has opened completely.
If not, then you need to remove the tip from the lever and reduce the length of the rod.
Now you need to see what position the damper is in when the gas pedal is released: does it close completely. If not, the traction should be lengthened a little.
Next, we work with the air damper. We loosen its drive. We completely recessed the damper in the cabin.
We press on the three-arm lever so that the damper opens to the end. In this position, tighten the locking screw.
Checking the adjustment. To do this, completely close and reopen the shutter from the passenger compartment. If the damper does not open completely, we carry out the adjustment again. If the outcome is positive, fully tighten the screw.

Previously, the VAZ 2106 carburetor must be removed. How to do this is described in the article:

The following step-by-step photo instruction will help you deal directly with the adjustment process:

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2106 adjustment

These works can be done right in the car. But you have to first remove the filter cover.

We turn out the cork. Under it we find the adjustment screw.

If work is carried out without removing the carburetor from the car, pull out the "suction". If you have the device in your hands, press the three-arm lever. After the damper is completely closed, we sink it all the way to the stop.

Let's see what the gap is set between the camera and the air damper. A 5.5 mm drill will help us with this.

If necessary, make adjustments by turning the adjusting screw with a screwdriver.

We return the cork back.

Now you need to check the distance between the camera and the throttle valve. The required size is 1 millimeter.A drill with a similar diameter is suitable for this. The gap is adjusted using a rod, which is either rearranged in another hole, or bent.

Before starting this work, you need to make sure that the needle valve is working reliably.

We measure between the float and the gasket. This distance should be 6.5 millimeters. Slight deviation of 0.25 mm is allowed. Alternatively, you can simply use a suitable measuring drill.

The clearance is adjusted by changing the angle of inclination of the float tab.

Turn the float all the way down. We measure the distance to the gasket in this position. It should be equal to 8 millimeters. With the help of the tongue, we achieve the desired value.

First you need to prepare the car. We warm up the engine to a temperature of 900 degrees. We are trying to ensure that the engine runs stably at idle.

We are watching a video in which everything is shown in an accessible and understandable way:

The textual instruction is as follows:
Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2106 adjustment

With the help of the number screw, we achieve a crankshaft speed from 820 to 900 rpm.
With the help of the quality screw, we bring the unit into stable and uniform operation. Then, by tightening the screw, we destabilize the operation of the motor and unscrew it again to restore it. Our task in this way is to achieve the most stable engine operation with the maximum lean mixture.
Using the quantity screw, we again bring the revolutions to the desired value.
The operation is best done two or three times.

Now you need to make sure that all the settings are correct. To do this, you need to start the engine and observe its idle operation. Is he starting to troit? Next, press sharply on the accelerator and also sharply release it. Are the failures audible? If so, the screw for adjusting the fuel quality must be slightly unscrewed.

During heavy braking, the motor should continue to run stably. If it stalls, you need to slightly unscrew the quality screw.

Thus, you now know how to adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2106 on your own without special tools.

Experienced carburetors! If you find inaccuracies in the article and want to share your experience, write your comments. Your opinion will be very useful to all readers of the site. Sixes are often equipped with Daaz and Solex carburetors. Is there a fundamental difference in regulation between them? Your opinion is also interesting.

This article is part of a 9-lesson series on 7 carburetors. For all nine lessons, follow the link: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/718/chto-takoe/karbyurator.html

The year of birth of the VAZ-2106 is considered to be 1976. Initially, in the plans, 2106 was produced as a modification of the VAZ-2103, which was called "Car No. 2" before being tested in production. But in connection with the celebration of the 25th anniversary of the Communist Party, it took a completely new model to be presented. Here I had to release the VAZ-2106, as an independent, new model of the domestic auto industry. Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2106 adjustment

VAZ-2106 lasted a record long time on the conveyor - 30 years. To be proud of this, however, did not work out especially, since many considered this model not entirely successful. The design of the "six" was similar to the FIAT 124. It had one engine, which passed to it from the VAZ-2101. But later, domestic developers managed to get documents from foreign colleagues for a 1.5-liter internal combustion engine, similar in components, but adapted for the greatest amount of work.

The Russian engineers did not have time to invent a new, unique engine, so they decided to do something more practical. They took as a basis the engine from FIAT 124 with a volume of 1197 cm³ and bored it under 1293 cm³. As a result, this work bore fruit in the form of a spare engine for the VAZ-21011. The same technology was used for the "six" and the engine was bored from the three from 76 to 79 mm and the volume of 1568 cm³.

It took much longer to develop the design.There are new decorative elements: a steering wheel with monograms, new taillights and plastic glasses for the front optics. The interior of the car also underwent changes, they added a console in the center, installed a dashboard brightness control and head restraints on the seats. By the way, the troika was deprived of them. The seats and the stove were also improved. The panels on the doors were decorated with an ornate oriental design. All changes and improvements to the model were recorded in the report, which was presented by the engineers at the party congress. In this form, the car left the assembly line until 2006.

For 30 years, the "six" was produced by the plant in this modification, adapted for the Russian car enthusiast. The car is reliable, quite economical in terms of gas mileage, outwardly nice and practical. The most important thing in the VAZ-2106 was the cheapness of its spare parts; repairs were available for almost every driver. Going for a long distance, the car owner only had to carry a standard set of keys and several pullers, as well as a valve dipstick. But the developers recommended hiding spare clutch discs, generator brushes and a distributor cover in the trunk.

"Six" could be called a good start for a novice driver. After all, she was like a designer, disassembling and assembling which one could get enough experience in the field of auto repair work. Using the VAZ-2106 as an example, one could learn to understand auto-electrics, ignition, and the structure of the starter. Even to check the readings of the tachometer with the engine speed, only by ear, a simple "six" could teach.

A significant plus is that after many years the body of the "six" has not undergone significant changes. That is why even now the repair of this car costs a penny. Any part can be purchased in a store for a reasonable price, in addition to stores, all consumable parts are sold hand-held at any auto-analysis. The most vulnerable points of the car are the sills, underbody, side members and wheel arches. Under a major overhaul, it was assumed that the wings and sills would undergo replacement. Each VAZ owner knew that they needed to be treated with anti-corrosion mastic, for example, Movil for a car. Today the assortment of Moviles is great, but the "six" is unpretentious, even bitumen mastic is suitable for it. Also, such a mastic had a soundproofing effect, which was necessary for the body of the VAZ.

The price when choosing an anti-corrosion lubricant is not a determining factor, since the result from both expensive and cheap mastics will be the same. The main thing in this work is not how to lubricate the car body, but how to do it. If the threshold is in good condition, then you can do only by pumping the mastic in those places where it is necessary, and the same should be done with the bottom. The front apron also needs to be processed, as its service life varies from 8 to 9 years. If the apron is in good aesthetic condition, then it favorably emphasizes all the external advantages of this model.

When repairing the body, pay special attention to the shock absorber thrust cups, front and rear. There are two problems here: the cup itself breaks out completely and the inlet under the stem breaks. But the plus in all this is that these parts are in accessible places. The reason for this may be the driver's inattentive attitude to his transport, because such a car must be carefully listened to and, at the slightest extraneous sound, drive it to the overpass. In the case when a thud is heard near the upper mount of the shock absorber loud enough, then most likely the problem is in the wear of the bushing. It is necessary to replace this part in time, otherwise the hole for the stem will break and it will be necessary to weld on the washer.

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If the ball joints are not original, they need careful control, otherwise the wheel may come off at high speed.In order to check its condition, you need to swing the front wheel in the loaded position, and the knock of the support from below will be heard well, and the backlash will tell you about problems with the stepped bearing. The lower arms do not stand out for their strength and endurance either.

Even at the time of the FIAT124 tests, which took place at the Dmitrovsky proving ground, in some cars the lower arm crumbled at the tenth thousand kilometers. The Italians took this problem into work, tried to fix it, but did not succeed in doing it completely. All these flaws with the suspension could be bypassed, but all further tests of both the "troika" and the "penny" Lada were carried out already during their conveyor production, and, accordingly, there was no time for revision. Therefore, each VAZ owner should carefully monitor the fastening of the shock absorber and the silent block.

The VAZ-2106 engine can rightfully be considered the most successful invention of the plant, because almost all minor defects in its design are easily removable. Naturally, the 1.6-liter engine was not a rival to its foreign peers, but it was the best among the domestic auto industry of those years. The only difference between the six engine and the three engine was the cylinder diameter of 79 mm and the cylinder head, but the reliability properties remained the same. As an experiment, cars of the sixth model and with an engine of 1300 cubic meters were produced, but this was not crowned with success, since such an engine was too weak for this body.

The combination of the processes of replacing consumable parts and their adjustment, in fact, is the repair of the VAZ engine. Blue smoke will tell you about the failure of the oil seals and valves. At the time of their replacement, you can check the condition of the camshaft and drive chain. If the camshaft housing is in good condition, then you can safely assemble the head.

It is not worth saving on the replacement of gaskets, since the sealants will not be able to reanimate them, this unnecessary work will take a lot of time and effort, and this is all in vain, since the cost of the gasket is low. Due to the fact that Italian-made oil seals are more elastic, unlike domestic ones, when replacing them, you need to choose them or factory ones. Foreign oil seals are much more expensive, but their wear resistance and service life are higher. Nearly all six-wheel carburetors are reliable and easy to adjust. One of the first carburetors, when properly tuned, consumed fuel from 8 to 9 liters per 100 kilometers, although in design it was much simpler than Ozone or Solex.

For a non-new car, this is a positive aspect. At the time of setting up a standard carburetor, it is enough to flush it only occasionally, and then it will not require serious investments. High-speed thrust can be caused by replacing the nozzles. For this reason, fuel consumption will increase. All the shortcomings of the factory assembly are easily fixable and do not require large expenditures.

When troubleshooting production problems, you only need to plan the correct placement of the carburetor plane: the lower part to the manifold. If you have the right tools, you can get rid of the casting defect in the carburetor diffusers. And you can also choose the mating of the holes of the cylinder head and the intake manifold. After these manipulations, the fuel mixture will be normal, and problems with filling the cylinder and the speed of the working mixture will not be relevant. The result of the work will be a revived and more powerful Lada motor.

Almost fifty years later, the VAZ chassis remains in good working order, and even drum brakes will not need to be replaced with modern disc brakes. For the speed at which the car works, such brakes perform all their functions perfectly, and if you carry out timely replacement of the pads, then there will be no problems at all. Maintenance of the steering gear does not require any special manipulations, but only an oil change. Its condition can be assessed both on the go and during parsing.A problem with this mechanism can arise only if the owner did not see and missed the moment of lubricant leakage at the place where the steering column is attached to the shaft of the entire mechanism.

It is striking that even after a major overhaul, the Zhiguli perfectly serve their owner. And those cars into which the TAD 17 transmission oil was poured according to the regulations do not know any problems with the gearbox at all during the entire operation of the car. If you carefully and attentively treat the VAZ-2106, eliminate all defects that have arisen on time, listen to the engine's operation, then the machine will respond with reliability and will never fail in difficult times.

Summing up, we can say that the domestic car VAZ-2106 was produced for an ordinary person with an average income. Its service will not hit your pocket and will not take much time. All spare parts are always available in stores or at auto-analysis. Any Zhiguli owner, who does not have the education of an auto mechanic, can easily replace consumables, thereby gaining tremendous experience in car repair.

Correct tuning the ignition system affects the dynamics of the car, fuel consumption, ease of starting the engine and its resource. The following describes the procedure for setting the ignition for a VAZ-2106 car with a contact ignition system, incl. when used as additional devices transistor or thyristor ignition system. Similar techniques are valid not only for the VAZ-2106, but also for all cars with a contact ignition system, you just need to clarify in the "Operation manual" the adjusting values for a particular engine.

The actual adjustment is reduced to three stages: setting the value of the angle of the closed state of the contacts (UZSK), depending on the size of the gap in the contacts of the distributor-interrupter (distributor), setting the ignition timing (UOZ), checking and adjusting the results obtained while driving.

UZSK adjustment is necessary when using a classic or transistor ignition system. When using a thyristor system, the UZSK value is not critical.

For adjustment it is necessary to remove the distributor cover. If you are using a classic ignition system, then before adjusting, I recommend that you clean the distributor contacts with a file by removing the formed tubercle on one of the contacts. After stripping, it is necessary to check that the contacts adjoin each other with their entire plane. Readjust if necessary by carefully bending the fixed contact.

Next, you need to turn the crankshaft to such a position that the distance between the distributor contacts is maximum. Unscrew the screw securing the contact block to the bearing plate, insert a 0.4 mm thick probe between the contacts and select such a position of the contact block so that the probe moves with little effort. Fix the found position of the contact group by tightening the screw. Check the size of the gap by trying to place a feeler gauge thinner (less than 0.35 mm) and thicker (more than 0.45 mm) between the contacts. The thicker stylus should not fit into the gap between the contacts, and the thinner should move without any effort.

A special key is used to rotate the crankshaft. If there is no such key at hand, then slowly rotate the crankshaft by engaging fourth gear and gently pushing the car. It is difficult to use a starter for this, because it is difficult to achieve the required accuracy of the angle of rotation.

The resulting gap between the distributor contacts gives the required value of the UZSK (and it is the angle that is critical, not the gap!) With a given accuracy, as a rule, only in new distributors, when there is still no development of contacts. Therefore, it is advisable to check the adjustment made by measuring the angle itself, which should be 55 ± 3 °.

The easiest and most accurate way to do this is by using an electronic tachometer that has a UZSK measurement function, or a special automotive measuring device (those were produced that included the functions of a voltmeter, ohmmeter, ammeter, tachometer, UZSK meter). For this, a distributor is assembled, a tachometer is connected, the engine is started. The tachometer is switched to the UZSK measurement mode. If the UZSK value is outside the limits recommended by the factory, then the gap adjustment is repeated.

where p = 3.14 is the Pythagorean number,
d = 70 mm - diameter of the distributor body,
l, mm - the measured arc length along the distributor body between the marks.When the UZSK is correctly set, the arc length for the VAZ-2106, VAZ-2103 engine is 33 ± 2 mm.

Fig 1. Location of marks for setting the ignition timing. Front view of the engine.

For the VAZ-2106, VAZ-2103 engine, the moment of opening the contacts of the distributor-breaker, corresponding to the spark in the 1st cylinder, must advance the top dead center of the piston stroke in the first cylinder by 0 ± 1 °, and on the VAZ-2101 engine by 2 ± 1 ° (location of marks - see fig. 1).

There are several ways to perform this operation: using a stroboscope, using a light bulb, “by spark” and “by ear”.

Method 1. Adjustment using a stroboscope
This is the fastest way to adjust. Any car stoboscope will be needed. It is better if it is powered from the 12 V on-board network, and the signal for activation is taken from the sensor, which is put on the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. Other designs showed me either unstable operation or low reliability when working with a thyristor ignition system.

We connect the stroboscope to the car's electrical network. We remove and muffle the vacuum corrector hose from the distributor. We start the engine and warm it up to such a temperature that it stably kept idling speed. We loosen the bolt securing the distributor body. We direct the light from the stroboscope to the pulley located on the crankshaft. Turning the distributor housing, we achieve such a position so that the visible position of the mark applied to the pulley is located in a predetermined way relative to the marks on the valve timing mechanism cover (see Fig. 1). In the found position, we fix the trambler body by tightening the bolt fixing it.

It is important that the engine is at idle speed when adjusting. At higher speeds, the centrifugal regulator comes into operation, and the adjustment results in this case will be inaccurate.

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Along the way, with the ignition setting, it is possible to evaluate other parameters of the distributor-breaker operation. With an increase in speed, the UOZ should increase as a result of the operation of the centrifugal regulator. If, at medium crankshaft speeds, remove the vacuum corrector hose from the distributor, then the UOZ should decrease, and when put on, it should increase. You can also evaluate the stability of the position of the mark in different modes. If the mark “walks”, then most likely there is a depletion in the bearing of the distributor's movable plate.

Method 2. Adjustment using a light bulb
This method can be called classic, since it is described in almost all automotive literature. You will need a 12 V light bulb with two wires connected to it (options - a voltmeter or the probe described below) and a special. a wrench to rotate the crankshaft (preferably).

Using the key, turn the crankshaft so that the mark on the pulley is positioned in a predetermined manner relative to the marks on the timing mechanism cover (see Fig. 1), and at the same time the distributor slider stands opposite the high-voltage wire of the 1st cylinder (the cylinders are counted from the front of the engine). If there is no special. key, you can engage 4th gear and push the car until the crankshaft is in the desired position. We connect one of the light bulb wires to the wire from the distributor to the ignition coil, and connect the other to the car ground. We remove the central wire from the distributor cover and lean it against the ground.We loosen the bolt securing the distributor body. We turn on the ignition.

We turn the distributor body clockwise until the light goes out (the distributor contacts are closed). Then we slowly rotate in the other direction until the lamp lights up (contacts open). In this position, we fix the distributor body with a bolt.

If a transistor or thyristor ignition system is used, it is possible that the voltage at the distributor contacts is not enough to ignite the light bulb. In this case, you must use a voltmeter or diode probe.

Method 3. Spark adjustment
The moment of opening the contacts when using the methodology of method 2 can be determined without using a light bulb or voltmeter, remembering that at the moment of opening the contacts, the ignition system just gives out a spark.

We turn the crankshaft so that the mark on the pulley is positioned in a predetermined manner relative to the marks on the timing mechanism cover (see Fig. 1), and the distributor slider is opposite the high-voltage wire of the 1st cylinder (the cylinders are counted from the front of the engine). We remove the central wire from the distributor cover and place it at a distance of about 5 mm from the vehicle weight. We loosen the bolt securing the distributor body. We turn on the ignition.

We turn the distributor body clockwise by 10-20 degrees. Then slowly rotate in the other direction until the spark jumps. In this position, we fix the distributor body with a bolt.

Method 4. Adjustment "by ear"
The most imprecise method, to which it makes sense to resort only in the field, when none of the above methods can be applied.

We start the engine and loosen the bolt securing the distributor housing. Turning the body, we find its position taoke when the engine speed becomes maximum. After a few degrees, we turn the body clockwise (we make the UOZ smaller) and fix the distributor body.

Most likely, with such an adjustment, you will get a very significant error, but you can somehow get to civilized conditions where you can adjust everything normally.
Stage 4. Checking the results obtained while driving

The results obtained need to be clarified by the behavior of the car on the road. Warm up the engine to operating temperature, pick up a speed of 40-50 km / h on a smooth horizontal section of the road and, having engaged the 4th gear, sharply press the accelerator pedal. For a short time (1-2 seconds) characteristic knocking knocks ("clink") should be heard, and the car should confidently begin to increase its speed. If detonation is not audible, then turn the distributor counterclockwise one division on the scale at the base of the case. If the detonation is heard longer, then turn the distributor housing 1 degree clockwise. Repeat the procedure until you get a slight detonation when you press the gas sharply, disappearing after 1-2 seconds.

If, when checking the adjustment while driving, it was necessary to significantly change the position of the distributor compared to that found in stage 2, then this indicates a problem. The reason may be in a significant deviation of the composition of the combustible mixture from the nominal or in improper operation of the distributor systems (centrifugal and vacuum regulators, play in the tambler shaft, play in the distributor bearing).

Diode Probe

Rice. 2. Electrical circuit of the diode probe

For work on ignition adjustment and many electrical diagnostics, it makes sense to make a simple diode probe, the diagram of which is shown in Fig. 2. As a LED D1, you can use a diode of the AL307 type, the value of the resistor R1 is about 2 kOhm. Diode D2 is needed to protect LED D1 from reverse voltage, in principle, you can do without it. It is convenient to place the entire circuit in the case from the simplest ballpoint pen.Make a hole in the cap, where to insert the LED, and from the opposite side in the hole through which the writing unit of the rod exited, fix a sharp probe. You can use a thick needle as a probe, and you can fix it with epoxy glue. On the side of the case, you need to make a hole through which to bring out the wire, ending with a "crocodile" clip for connecting the circuit to the car body.

Such a probe does not take up space in the "glove compartment", but can greatly simplify the finding of a malfunction that suddenly appeared on the road.

When preparing the page, materials were used from “Manuals for operation, maintenance and repair of cars VAZ-2103, VAZ-21033, VAZ-21035, VAZ-2106, VAZ-21061, VAZ-21063, VAZ-21065? (Compiled by Ignatov A.P., Kosarev S.N., Novokshenov K.V. et al., M .: Livr, 1999. - 192 p.: Ill.).

For those who are engaged in car repairs with their own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with photo report on self-replacement of the pump on the VAZ-2106

Video (click to play).

Keywords: VAZ 2106, vaz 2106 repair, vaz 2106 ignition