Do-it-yourself vaz 2107 repair door repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2107 door repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If the car door is difficult to open and close, and the door hinges are adjusted correctly, it is necessary to adjust or replace the door lock. This does not require any specialized tools and devices. You can replace or repair the VAZ 2107 door lock yourself.

If the door lock does not work well, it is not necessary to change it. It is likely that lubrication and adjustment can be dispensed with.

If the door lock mechanism is working properly, the lock striker needs to be adjusted. If the door sags down when closing, the latch must be raised; if it rises, it must be lowered. If the door rests too much on the seal and closes "with one click", the latch must be pushed out, if the door is loose, the latch must be moved deeper towards the passenger compartment. The procedure is as follows:

Mark the initial position of the latch with a marker.
Loosen the three mounting bolts.
Move the latch to a position where the door can be easily and securely closed.
Tighten the mounting bolts.
Check the operation of the door lock. If necessary, correct the adjustment.

To repair the door locks, you must first remove the trim.

If the door does not open well with the inner handle, it is necessary to adjust its position, which affects the tension of the rod. To adjust, loosen the two fastening screws and move the handle together with the bracket to a position where the lock works correctly. After completing the adjustment, carefully tighten the bolts.

Another reason for problems with the VAZ 2107 door locks is plastic external handles installed instead of metal ones. The material of such handles deforms over time and loses its rigidity. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the handles with metal ones.

Video (click to play).

Repair of the rear door lock of the VAZ 2107 does not differ from the front one. The only difference is the presence of "larvae" in the front locks and rods attached to them, which sometimes causes additional problems when the lock is closed with a key.

Use a slotted screwdriver to disconnect the pull of the lock activation button.
Unscrew the screws securing the groove and pull it out.
Loosen the screws securing the inner door handle and push it into the door.
Unscrew the three screws securing the lock mechanism and remove it together with the inner handle and rod.

[tip] Sometimes, to restore the functionality of the lock, it is enough to clean and lubricate its parts. Otherwise it is necessary to replace it with a new one. Installation of the door lock is carried out in the reverse order. Before putting the lock, its parts must be lubricated with grease. [/ Tip]

Note!
To carry out the adjustment, you will need from the tools: Impact-rotary screwdriver, as well as washers of different thicknesses, it is possible that you will still use a metal plate for the place of the washers (The plate or washers, in principle, there is no difference, just the plate will fit completely and the washers partially, but all the same, adjustment with the plate and with washers will succeed), in addition, if you suddenly decide to replace the hinges themselves and after replacing them, by the way, by the way, you will forget about the backlash for a while (Over time, the door will still sag, but as a rule after a very long time this happens if, of course, you will not leave the doors open for a long time, because it is because of the doors open for a long time that the hinges sag), then you will need a grinder, a drill, a mill, a hammer, a chisel and some other tools, but the most basic are those that we have listed, without them it will not work (By the way, if you can knock out the pin holding the loop with a chisel, then the grinder will not be useful to you at all I am)!

Summary:

When do you need to adjust the doors?
As soon as you saw that they began to sag, we recommend that you do not wait until the door is completely jammed, but immediately proceed to the procedure for adjusting the doors, it is carried out in two ways, both of which you have to do, the first is to adjust the hinges and eliminate backlash from them (The backlash can not be eliminated, but simply lift the loop by placing something under it, thereby the door will become higher), the second is the adjustment of the locks (For more information on how to adjust the locks, read the article: "Adjusting door locks on cars"), but only until you adjust the hinges, we do not recommend tackling the adjustment of the locks at all, for clarity, in the photo below, the place where the door rubbed with its upper edge against the rack is circled, and the paint was damaged, all this happened just because of the sagging door , which, when closing, rested on the rack and thereby scratched it, so that this does not happen with you, always watch the gap, moreover, due to curves and incorrectly set gaps, the side part of the car loses its appearance very much and the car begins to look worse.

Note!
If you suddenly cannot unscrew the bolts that are attached to the hinges with an impact with a rotary screwdriver, then resort to drilling them, for this take a 6 mm drill and a good drill and those bolts that are unrealistic to unscrew, drill their heads at the beginning to a depth of about 6 mm carefully, then with a drill 8 mm, to a depth of 4.5 mm approximately and when the heads are cut off, remove the door, and unscrew the studs with pliers and, if necessary, also spray them with WD-40!

1. There are several ways to consider all of them, the first is to unscrew the bolts that attach the door hinges to the body (They are indicated by the red arrow, not all the bolts are visible in the photo, in fact there are much more of them and there is still a lower hinge), after them turning out, you will need to put thick washers under them, like the ones shown in the small photo, thereby choosing the thickness and number of washers, you can align the door as you need, if you do not want to unscrew the bolts constantly and you want to finish the work as soon as possible, then cut all the washers in such a way that they crawl under the loosened bolts and then you could clamp them with the same bolts, thanks to this, you will not have to constantly unscrew the bolts, but only slightly loosen them, insert the cut washer and wrap it up again and so on until the door is aligned.

2. The next method consists in lining a thick metal plate under the hinge, in general, the plate is taken, again, the thickness is selected individually, if the door hangs too low, then the plate will need to be thick, if it sags a little, then a thin one is enough, well, so, from what to make such a plate, you ask, we answer: From any metal that most likely lies in your garage and has a small thickness so that it can be cut, if not, then the plate can be made from a metal can, for example, or something else whether (Everything is up to your imagination), in addition, the plate needs to be cut out in the center, as you can see in the photo below, precisely in order for the bolts to wrap in and so that this plate cannot be seen, make it in size, slightly smaller than the loop, but only cut it in length, purely in size, so that it fits from the very top to the very bottom.

Note!
To put such a plate under the hinge, you need to do the same, loosen the bolts of this hinge a little and then put a plate under it, we recommend starting from the lower hinge, since if you put it under the upper one, then there is a possibility that the door is vice versa down fall over, and not straighten up just like it should!

3.And the last method, we will immediately warn you that it is difficult (for whom how, but we resort to it only when the hinges have already worn out badly and they have a terrible backlash), but still doable and still more reliable, it is done as follows , the door is completely removed from the car, after which the middle part under which the pin itself is installed is drilled out or cut down by a grinder (The middle part is indicated by a red arrow, in no case, do not look at those parts that are shown with a blue arrow and by the way we indicated the pin with a green arrow so that you understood what it is) and at the end the pin is removed and the hinge is removed from the car door and a new one is put in its place (A slightly different way to replace the hinges, but only there is no need to drill and cut anything, explained in the video clip at the very end of the article , if you are interested then check it out).

Additional video clip:
As you have already seen, there are a lot of ways to restore the level of the door overhang, but these are not all methods, in more detail with all of them and clearly with those that were given in this article, you can familiarize yourself with the videos that are posted below:

Method one:

Method two:

Method three:

Disconnect the lock blocking button 7 (Fig. 4), for which first remove the button cap by prying it with a sharp tool and remove the fastening bracket 6 to the rod 5.

Gently prying the door trim at the points of attachment of the plastic holders (clips) marked in Fig. 1, remove it. Remove the glass seal (bottom).

Remove the front glass guide and then the rear guide. Remove both halves of the window cover 1 (Fig. 1)

Loosen the tension roller 13 by loosening the fastening screws. Disconnect the cable from the brackets 8 by unscrewing four screws 6 and remove it from the rollers. Pull out the glass through the top 9. Remove the window regulator mechanism by unscrewing the fastening nuts.

Unscrew the two bolts securing the inner handle and remove it together with the bracket. Also, after unscrewing the fastening nuts, remove the outer handle of the lock, disconnect the rod 14 (Fig. 4).if necessary, remove the lock itself, having previously disconnected the rod from it.

I won't be original if I say that front door assembly is carried out in the reverse order. I just want to draw your attention to some details. Be sure to check the correctness of the cable laying on the rollers, no overlaps are allowed. Adjust the cable tension with a tension roller, while checking the smoothness of the glass.

The difference disassembly and assembly of the rear door consists in the fact that there is a fixed glass. It should be removed first. To do this, it is necessary to lower the movable glass, unscrew the screw securing the stand and pull out the fixed glass together with the rubber seals. Further, all actions are similar to those for disassembling the front glass.

When assembling, be sure to adjust the amount of movement of the glass.

Repairing a door using the straightening method or how to fix a hall on the door with your own hands in the garage, alternative tools and devices used in this case, I will tell all this in this article using the example of the front left door of a VAZ 2107.

Often through inattention, when leaving the garage in reverse, the driver catches a jamb or collar with an open door - as a result, the door is bent, the cracker (outer door trim) is concave, formed by the hall. The door is difficult to close, or even the lock refuses to work.

I will not list the tools used to repair a door in a car service, because not everyone has the opportunity to buy them, or make them with their own hands, I will only say one thing - without body clip and chain you definitely can't do it.

I often have to deal with such a repair. In time, it takes about an hour (excluding the time for filling and painting).

In order to properly align the door, we first restore its geometry, and for this we will have to remove the door. I have moved away from using impact screwdrivers when removing doors from the "Zhiguli" classics and use an ordinary screwdriver with a slight modification.

As you can see, everything is very simple - a turnkey nut 19 is welded. We push the screwdriver with all our might, and unscrew the screw with the key.

We place the door on a small homemade slipway. Slipway for straightening doors represents a channel with a welded stop under the door, a wooden block 15X8 cm in size, a hydraulic tie, a clamp, a chain.

If you do not have a hydraulic tie, channel bar, then call your assistant ...

The assistant rests the door on the threshold of your garage, if not, then drive an iron stake into the ground, put a wooden board or block between the door and the stake, look for a wooden stump, put it in front of the door and stake, from the side of the crease. Fasten a clamp, a chain to it, a piece of iron at the second end of the chain, 10 kilograms (preferably a 16kg weight), shout to your friend "hold!"
After each jerk, tap out a dent from the inside. Repeat the procedure until the hall disappears.

We stretch the door, and with the help of the spotter we pull it up with the hall.

For those who have a factory spotter and have a "snake", this is generally easy to do. If there is neither one nor the other - weld washers with a semiautomatic device and pull them up with a reverse hammer.

If there is no semiautomatic welding machine either, then you will have to put the door on its side and use a pry bar to tap the door outward from the inside until the dent becomes even enough.

Then, using a file or a hammer, using a stand, we straighten the damaged area, restoring the edges of the door as much as possible.

Using a metal plane, we cut off the sharp bulges obtained in the process of pulling up the door "foam" with a reverse hammer.

Here you can substitute an anvil inside, and break through the bulges with a breakdown inward, until nothing sticks out, or use a straightening hammer with a sharp tip.

We grind the repair straightening zone with a grinder with a flap grinding wheel.

We put the door in place, check the gaps, mark with a marker where you need to adjust and correct.

Keep in mind that as a result of a crease, the door always leads back, because of which it "strikes" against the middle pillar, and sometimes does not close at all.
To eliminate this, it is necessary to drown the hinges on the door (not on the counter!), You just need to hit it several times with a heavy hammer, light tapping will not help.

Do not overdo it, it will be much more difficult to pull out later! It is better to seal the trailing edge of the wing, which is joined to the door, with masking tape in advance, so as not to beat off the paint during repeated fitting of the door.

Don't be discouraged if you have to remove and re-install the door several times.

That's all, it remains to putty the aligned area (in my case, I will do with a light layer of "Extra Gold"), prime and paint the door. But that is another story.

We will show the process of removing and replacing a door in a classic VAZ on models 2107 2105 2106 2104. We unscrew the door fastening bolts using a conventional impact screwdriver. Take out the door stopper with pliers. We take out or cut the wires. That's it, the door can be removed and a new one put in, as you can see there is nothing complicated in this procedure.

Video how to remove and replace a door in a classic VAZ 2107 2106 2105:

Backup video door removal in VAZ 2107 2106 2105:

To perform work on removing and installing the front door of a VAZ 2107 car, you will need an assistant, as well as a Togh-30 key and an impact screwdriver.Removing the front door from the car VAZ 2107
1. We prepare a VAZ 2107 car for operations (see "Preparing a VAZ 2107 car for maintenance and repair").
2. Using a punch, knock out the door opening limiter finger upward from the body hinges and remove the finger with pliers. Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2107 door repair

3. Using an impact screwdriver, loosen the tightening of the five screws securing the front door hinges.

4. Holding the front door, finally unscrew the screws of its fastening and remove the front door from the VAZ 2107 car.

Installing the front door on a car VAZ 2107
1. Install the front door on a VAZ 2107 car in the reverse order, focusing on the unpainted sections of the front pillar of the body.
2. Adjust the position of the front door in the body opening so that the gaps around the door perimeter are uniform.
3. If necessary, adjust the position of the front door striker by loosening the three fixing screws of the striker with the Togx-30 key. By moving the latch, we achieve a tight closing of the door with uniform gaps around the perimeter. We turn the screws.

Despite the fact that VAZ 2107 cars have appeared for a very, very long time, many residents of our country still use them. Owners of VAZ 2107 cars often have to repair their cars, including on their own. So, often motorists have to do body repair on their own, in which sometimes it is necessary to replace the doors or carry out other work on repairing doors, and for this, the device of the VAZ 2107 doors should be studied.

To remove the front door, you only need basic knowledge about the structure of the VAZ 2107 doors, thanks to which most owners of the "seven" cope with such repairs on their own.

So, in order to remove the front door from the car, you will need to purchase a special impact screwdriver. With this tool, you can easily loosen tightly tightened screws on the door. You will also need a ten wrench to remove the front door. Finally, before starting work, you will have to find an assistant - the fact is that the VAZ 2107 door is quite heavy and you definitely cannot hold it without help.

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First of all, you will need to remove the door opening stop, and for this you need to use a hammer to knock out the retaining pin, after which you will need to pull it out of the seat using the pliers.

Then take an impact screwdriver and use it to loosen the door hinge screws. This is done quite simply: the screwdriver itself is set in the desired position, after which it will be necessary to hit it with a hammer several times. The sharp blows of the hammer are repeated until the screws are unscrewed.

It is important not to unscrew the screws completely before an assistant comes to the rescue - he will have to hold the door and help remove it.

To re-install the door, repeat all the above steps in reverse order. Note that before installing the door, be sure to grease the screw connections.

Often, owners of VAZ 2107 cars need to remove the interior door trim - this is done before starting work with the power windows or the door lock mechanism. If you know the device of the VAZ 2107 door, then you already know what the upholstery is = it is a sheet of fiberboard, which is covered with leatherette on top.

What needs to be done to remove the door trim? First you need to remove the armrest. To do this, you will have to use a Phillips screwdriver - with its help you will need to unscrew the three screws that secure the armrest. Note that the screws are covered with decorative plugs - you can remove them using a flat screwdriver, slightly prying them.

Then you need to remove the window regulator drive handle - it is fixed with a plastic retainer, which must be squeezed out using a flat screwdriver. After that, the handle can be easily removed with a lock.

Now you will need to slightly pry the handle with a screwdriver with which the door opens - it can be easily removed.

The upholstery itself is attached to the door using plastic clips - they should be squeezed out with a screwdriver, and this must be done so that the clips come out of the holes that are on the door panel. It is important to remember that the clamps are made of plastic, therefore, you need to work with them very carefully. When reinstalling the door trim, you may need to replace the clips as they may already be too weak to hold the trim.

The need to remove the front doors of the VAZ 2107 arises when performing various body repairs, both the entire car body as a whole, and the doors themselves separately. To remove the front doors, you will need a special impact screwdriver, the meaning of which is to transfer the impact force from the hammer through the ratchet into the rotational movement of the rod, by means of which the tightly tightened screws are loosened, you will also need a ten wrench, you will also need the help of an assistant, so as the door is quite heavy and it is not very convenient to hold it alone when removing it.

If we have everything we need, let's get to work:

The first step is to remove the door opening limiter, for this we hammer the locking finger with a hammer and pull it out of the seat with pliers.
Now, with an impact screwdriver, we loosen the screws that secure the door hinges, for this we install a screwdriver and with sharp blows of a hammer on it, unscrew the screws.
Next, with an assistant, we hold the door and completely unscrew the screws, after which we remove the door itself.

This completes the work on removing the front door of the VAZ 2107. Carry out the necessary repairs. We install in the reverse order of removal, it is unforgettable to lubricate all threaded connections of the screws, as well as the finger of the door opening limiter.

After the door is installed, it needs to be adjusted. The first step is to adjust the gaps between the door and the sills of the car, the door and the body pillar. To adjust, it is necessary to move the door on the hinges, depending on the size of the gap, it must either be lowered or raised, but the adjustment on the hinges is not final and is performed only approximately.After the gaps are set, it is necessary to set the final gaps and the tightness of the door closing using the lock retainer located on the door pillar. Loosen the bolts of its fastening and moving up and down, left and right, set the required clearances. When closing the door, it should not be pulled up and down.

Door locks hold the door in a closed position and prevent its spontaneous opening while driving. At the same time, the doors should be level, without distortions. The gaps between the door and the body must be the same around the entire perimeter. Otherwise, it is necessary to adjust the VAZ 2107 door locks or repair (replace) the door hinges.

Important: with faulty door hinges, it is useless to adjust the doors. Therefore, if they have a backlash or are set incorrectly, the problem must be eliminated. The adjustment of the VAZ 2107 doors should be carried out after replacing or adjusting the hinges. Otherwise, the door will not close easily, even if it will be fixed exactly with ideal clearances.

Do-it-yourself adjustment of VAZ 2107 doors requires a minimum of tools. You will need: a powerful impact Phillips screwdriver (you will not be able to unscrew and tighten the fastening screws with an ordinary screwdriver);

Instead of a ring spanner, an open-end wrench may fit, but then there is a risk of ripping off the edges of the bolts.

Adjusting the rear door of the VAZ 2107 does not differ from setting the position of the front. It is carried out by setting the correct position of the latch, and not the door lock. The locks themselves are installed motionless and it is almost impossible to change their position. The locks are installed directly at the ends of the car doors, and the latches are installed on the body pillars. When the doors are closed, the lock enters the retainer, being held inside by the locking mechanism. If the door is not properly positioned in the opening, you need to adjust the position of the door hinges or replace them with new ones.

If the lock and striker are displaced relative to each other, the door does not close well. At the moment of closing, it is felt that it is as if running into an obstacle. Usually, the lock along with the door is displaced and strikes the lower or upper part of the latch, lifting the door. The situation can be corrected by adjusting the vertical position of the latch. If the door rises when closing, the latch must be lowered; if it is lowered, it must be raised. Another common situation is that the door closes easily, but does not hold well when closed. In this case, it is possible to open the door while driving (especially when cornering), which is fraught with serious troubles. If the lock is working properly, the problem is corrected by moving the retainer inward, towards the car's interior.

The front door of the VAZ 2107 is adjusted more often. This is especially true for the door on the driver's side. Door adjustment includes two steps:

Before adjusting, it is advisable to lubricate the locks and hinges with silicone grease. This will improve their performance and eliminate possible problems when the lock is triggered. To adjust the position of the loops, you need to do the following:

When the position of the door in the opening is adjusted, you can proceed to adjusting the lock, or rather, to adjusting the position of the latch. This is done like this:

This completes the adjustment of the VAZ 2107 door. You can hit the road.

All experienced owners of this car should know how to make a body repair of a VAZ 2107. At the very least, this will give considerable advantages, it will be possible to save good money on services at the service station and significantly extend the life of the car. Do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2107 involves several operations, and all of them are aimed at improving and modernizing the metal frame of the car.ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more" It will be useful to know that on the VAZ 2107, body repair covers such basic provisions as eliminating distortions and other deformations of the body, correcting deformations of body parts, welding repairs, replacing welded elements, and so on.What can damage the body of the VAZ 2107 from? As a rule, up to 6 percent of the vehicle fleet in our country is involved in road accidents of various severity. If collisions of a vehicle are considered minor, then they do not imply any significant damage to body parts. But in major accidents, the damage to the body is so strong that the help or consultation of a specialist who knows firsthand how to repair is required. In this case, experience plays an important role, as well as having the right equipment.It will be interesting to know that extremely catastrophic deformations of the car body occur during a front impact, when the front end is experiencing powerful overloads. If you measure the strength of the energy received in a collision with an oncoming car or any obstacle, then it will always be colossal. The energy is partially absorbed by the car body, which deforms in a fraction of a second.It is noteworthy that on the "seven" during a frontal impact, not only the front end suffers, but heavy loads are wavyly thrown onto all nearby elements and face parts of the frame. Of all parts of the body, the spars, which absorb the energy of the impact type, and door openings are the most affected by impacts (due to which the clearances are reduced).In a word, in the process of deformation, there is a general skew of the skeleton, a change in the location of the checkpoint and internal combustion engine is possible.It is impossible to leave the car in this state. It needs to be repaired, but the nature of the deformation of the body of the "seven" in this case will depend not only on the force of the impact, but on the age of the car and the zone of impact concentration. The price of the work will also depend on this. Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2107 door repair

One way or another, the body of a used "seven" will not avoid aging. The supporting structure assumes all constant loads from the weight of the transported cargo and the mass of passengers. There is such a thing as dynamic loads arising from the movement of the vehicle. In addition, bumps and pits in the roadway, vibrations of a functioning motor and other components of the machine negatively affect the body.

Attention. The body is especially badly damaged in the process of fast movement on a bad road.

As a rule, the body of the "seven" is designed for several years of service, or more precisely, for 15-20 thousand km of run. Here are the kinds of changes that occur over time:

Individual body elements are deformed, warping of their surfaces is observed;
Doors sag over time;
The design of the openings is violated;
The integrity of the paintwork and anticorrosive is violated;
The spars are displaced, warping of the wings is observed, especially with frequent body overloads;
Cracks are observed at the joints of the body with the struts;
The weld nuts and bolts are not the same;
Welding parts are detached, resulting in knocks and squeaks;
Individual welding spots are also destroyed.

Note. Deformations of this nature are usually called operational. They are restored along the way.

The most dangerous companion of time is corrosion. It is capable of destroying a metal body when it is interconnected with open air. Corrosion is most severe in tight, inconspicuous parts. Such areas of the car are pockets, cavities, sinuses, etc.

Note. Without special protection, the machine steel sheet loses 0.2-0.3 mm in one year if it is outdoors.

The body of the "seven" has a lot of advantages over the frame of automobiles with a frame structure. First of all, this has to do with a 40-45 percent reduction in weight and lower production costs. The assembly itself does not imply any particular difficulties either: cold-rolled steel sheet is used, as a rule, 08KP with the possibility of drawing and good weldability, as well as paintability.

The parts that are most susceptible to corrosion (the underbody and its elements) are made from a special sheet of steel. So, in the VAZ 2107 of the last years of production, the number of galvanized parts in weight exceeds more than half of the entire body.

The most expensive part of any car is the body. Only for its manufacture it takes about half a ton of sheet metal (it is not cheap) and many other expensive materials.

As a result, special requirements are imposed on the body, which it must meet:

Have visibility in accordance with modern standards;
Have a shape that is optimal in terms of aerodynamics and functionality;
Seats must be securely fastened;
Changes to the front and rear of the body should be within normal limits in case of unexpected accidents;
Salon, engine and luggage compartments must have sufficient volume for a sedan;
Compliance with all standards of painting, manufacturing, etc .;
Finally, good maintainability.

First, the body is diagnosed for compliance with the general requirements:

The points of attachment of the motor, suspension and gearbox are examined. Base points - that's how they are called. If they are in order, or in other words, their location is in accordance with the factory standards, the handling and stability of the machine will be good;

Next, attention should be paid to the frame, which consists of individual components. It is to it (frame) that parts called plumage are attached.

A properly centered body is one on which all factory sizes and shapes are perfectly restored. In other words, the integrity of the body geometry is checked, diagnosed as follows:

The parameters of the clearances of the frame and hinged parts are checked;
The design of the window openings is checked for compliance;
The mutual arrangement of the factory points on the base is checked.

Car doors must always be in good condition. This is necessary both from the point of view of comfort of use and from the point of view of safety. Window regulators, locks and latches must work in all conditions, and the gaps between the doors and the body must be within normal limits. This is especially true of VAZ cars, in which, even in the best times, the build quality of the body and interior left much to be desired, and for cars with a mileage of over a hundred thousand, such things should be treated especially carefully.

Adjusting the VAZ 2107 door locks may be necessary in several cases. The most common is the failure of the locking mechanism. Doors can jam, or vice versa, the lock may not work to close. Skewed doors are also common. Even in the new sevens, this was quite common, and already seen specimens suffer from skewed doors without exception. Another thing is that the owners do not notice this for the time being.

The tilt of the door is dangerous because the lock at a certain moment may simply not work or unlock on a bad road. It will also not be news that the tired bodies of the seven can live their own lives and slowly lose their rigidity, which affects the loss of the geometry of the doorway. Since the door is more rigid, it is not going to adapt to the new body geometry and the only thing that can save the situation is adjusting the lock if the geometric changes in the opening have not yet reached critical values. But fortunately, this happens extremely rarely and with very inattentive owners.

Adjusting the door locks is quite within the power of anyone who is able to hold a socket and open-end wrench in their hands, although this procedure takes some time. To begin with, diagnose the operation of the lock mechanism and inspect the state of the gaps between the body panels, front fenders, pillars and door frames. Unfortunately, those three millimeters of the gap, which should be evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the door, on the VAZ 2107 exist only on the drawings in the design bureau in Togliatti.In fact, the gap can be from three to seven millimeters or more. Regardless of its size, the main thing is uniformity. If, even with the lock removed, it is not possible to fix a stable gap, you will have to adjust the hinges.

This will complicate the task even more, but there is no other way out. In some cases, it is necessary to adjust the hinges in pairs, and in some only one, it all depends on the direction of the skew. When adjusting the gap, it is worth paying attention to the condition of the seals, since they, as a rule, can strongly affect the position of the door in the opening. When the gaps are set, you need to pay attention to the plane of contact of the doors. In this case, you will also have to play with hinges and seals. Only then, after lubricating the hinges and eliminating backlash, can you begin to adjust the lock mechanism directly.

It is hardly possible to systematize all possible problems with locks on the seven, but to troubleshoot, first of all, they conduct a thorough inspection of the mechanism, lubricate the crossbars, check the rods and hinges. The procedure for solving the incorrect operation of locks looks like this:

without removing the retainer on the body pillar, outline its contour;
in the case when the door closes too tightly or only by one click, unscrew the latch and move it to the required distance outside the body;
in cases where the door slams two clicks, but the gap remains, the planes of the door and wing do not coincide, the retainer is loosened and shifted into the body;
when the door is closed and the locking mechanism is activated, the door must maintain vertical stability, that is, in the case when the door rises when closing, the latch is lowered, otherwise, they do the opposite.

It is not uncommon for the lock to work poorly when unlocked from the inside, while the outside opens satisfactorily.

This problem is solved by adjusting the position of the door opening handle - the fastening screws are loosened and the handle is set to the optimal position, after which the screws are tightened.

Problems with external handles can often be observed. The handle design itself is quite decent and if it is periodically lubricated with silicone grease, it will work for a long time without wedges and jamming. The pull from the handle to the lock may loosen and in this case the pull is simply bent until the handle starts to fully open the lock. Seven pens, unlike 2101-2106 pens, have a nasty tendency to crack. Even a slight damage on the painted black side can indicate this. Such a defect is not treated and the handle is completely replaced.

Video (click to play).

Having devoted half a day to the procedure for adjusting the door locks of the VAZ 2107, you can forget about the slamming and banging of doors for a long time, the mechanism will work clearly and quietly, the main thing is not to forget to lubricate the mechanisms and rods from time to time. I wish you all successful adjustments and a happy road!

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