Do-it-yourself vaz 21074 injector repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 21074 injector from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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technical manual for the operation of the car VAZ 2107 with engines 2103, 2106, 2104i and 21067i
carburetor / injector
service, specifications, diagrams, repair

1. General information of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
The main dimensions of the vaz 2107
Specifications
The location of the main components and assemblies of the car VAZ 2107
Identity data

2. Governing bodies and control devices of the car VAZ 2107
Location of controls and instruments
Ignition switch (lock)
Instrument panel and rocker switches
Steering column switches
The block of regulators of the hydrocorrector of headlights and illumination of devices
Heating and ventilation control unit

4. Tools, fixtures and operating materials
Universal tool
Special tools and devices for the repair of a vaz 2107
Operational materials

9. Power system of the carburetor engine of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Thermostat - changing the damper position
Air filter element - replacement
Fuel filter - installation and replacement
Air filter housing - removal and installation
Fuel pump - removal and installation
Fuel pump filter - cleaning
Fuel pump diaphragm - replacement
Fuel tank - removal and installation
Carburetor Fuel Filter - Cleaning
Carburetor drive - check and adjustment
Air damper actuator - check and adjustment
Fuel level in the float chamber - checking and adjusting
Idling - adjustment
Starting device - checking and adjusting
Carburetor - removal and installation
Needle valve and float - replacement
Carburetor cover - removal and disassembly
Carburetor body - disassembly
Pneumatic throttle valve - removal and installation
Forced idle economizer system (EPHH)
Forced idle economizer (EPHH) - check and replace
EPHH system microswitch - check and replacement
Electro-pneumatic valve - check and replace
Electro-pneumatic valve control unit - check and replace

Video (click to play).

10. Power supply system of the injection engine VAZ 2107
Description of the injection system design
Relief of pressure in the power supply system
Fuel filter - replacement
Supply pressure - check
Pressure regulator - removal and installation
Electric gasoline pump with a fuel level indicator sensor - removal and installation
Fuel rail - removing, installing and checking injectors
Idle speed regulator - check, removal and installation
Throttle body - removal and installation
Fuel tank-removal and installation
Air filter element - replacement
Air filter housing - removal and installation
Throttle cable - replacement
Adsorber - check the purge valve, removal and installation

11. Control system of the car engine VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the engine control system
Engine Management System Repair Precautions
Fuses and relays for the engine management system - replacement
Electronic control unit (ECU) - removal and installation
Crankshaft position sensor - check and replace
Coolant temperature sensor - check and replace
Throttle position sensor - check and replace
Mass air flow sensor - check and replace
Oxygen concentration sensor - check and replace
Speed sensor - removal and installation
Ignition coil - check and replace

12. Cooling system of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the cooling system
Coolant - level check and replacement
Thermostat - replacement
Electric fan activation sensor - replacement
Coolant Temperature Gauge Sensor - Replacement
Expansion tank - replacement
Radiator fan - removal and installation
Radiator - removal and installation
Coolant pump - removal and installation

13. The exhaust system of the VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Downpipe - removal and installation
Additional muffler - removal and installation
Catalytic converter - removal and installation
The main muffler - removal and installation

Transmission of the car vaz 2107
14. Clutch car VAZ 2107
Clutch design description
Hydraulic clutch release - check and adjustment
Hydraulic clutch release - check fluid level
Hydraulic clutch release - fluid change and bleeding
Clutch release hydraulic reservoir - removal and installation
Clutch release master cylinder - removal and installation
Clutch slave cylinder - removal and installation
Clutch release hydraulic hose - removal and installation
Clutch parts - removal and installation

15. Gearbox car VAZ 2107
Gearbox design description
Gearbox - Checking the oil level and changing the oil
Speedometer drive - replacement
Reversing light switch - check and replace
Output shaft oil seal - replacement
Transmission - removal and installation
Gearbox - disassembly and assembly

16. Cardan transmission of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the cardan transmission
Cardan drive - technical condition check
Cardan transmission - removal and installation
Cardan drive - disassembly and assembly

17. Rear axle of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure of the rear axle
Rear axle - check oil level and change oil
Main drive pinion oil seal - replacement
Axle shaft - removal and installation, oil seal replacement
Rear axle reducer - removal and installation
Rear axle - removal and installation

18. Front suspension of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Front suspension - technical check
Wheel alignment angles - camber, toe - adjustment
Front Wheel Hub Bearings - Adjustment
Front hub - replacing the oil seal, grease and hub bearings
Front suspension shock absorber - replacement
Front suspension spring - replacement
Front suspension upper arm - removal and replacement of silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges)
Silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges) of the lower arms - replacement
The lower arm of the front suspension - removal and installation
Cushions and anti-roll bar - replacement
Ball joints - replacement

19. Rear suspension of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Rear Suspension - Checking Technical Condition
Rear suspension rods - replacement
Rear suspension shock absorber - replacement
Rear suspension spring - replacement

20. Wheels and tires
general information
Tires - pressure check
Wheels and tires - technical check
Wheel - replacement
Tubeless tire - repair

21. Steering car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Steering - checking the technical condition and adjusting the steering mechanism
Steering gearbox - check oil level
Steering gear engagement - adjustment
Steering wheel - removal and installation
Steering shaft covers - removal and installation
Steering shaft - removal and installation
Steering rods - replacement
Steering gear reducer - removal and installation
Pendulum arm - replacement

22. Brake system of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Brake system - technical condition check
Hydraulic brake system - Checking the brake fluid level
Hydraulic brakes - bleeding and replacing brake fluid
Front brake pads - replacement
Rear wheel brake pads - replacement
The main brake cylinder - removal and installation
Vacuum brake booster - functional check
Vacuum brake booster - replacement
Front Wheel Brake - Disassembly
Brake light switch - position adjustment
Front Brake Hose - Replacing
Rear wheel slave cylinder - replacement
Rear brake hose - replacement
Brake pipes - replacement
Brake pressure regulator - check and replace
Parking brake - adjustment
Parking brake system - disassembly and assembly

23. Electrical equipment of the car VAZ 2107
General information
Relay and fuse mounting block
Relays and fuses - replacement
Ignition Relay, Hazard and Turn Signal Interrupter Relay - Replacement
Accumulator battery
Battery - maintenance
Accumulator battery - removal and installation

24. Generator vaz 2107
Alternator Drive Belt - Tension Adjustment and Replacement
Generator - removal and installation
Generator - check and repair

25. Starter VAZ 2107
Starter - removal and installation
Starter - check and repair

27. The body of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the body structure VAZ 2107
Body - cleaning drain holes and lubricating rubbing parts
Radiator lining - removal and installation
Hood - removal and installation
Bonnet lock and lock drive cable - removal and installation
Front bumper - removal and installation
Rear bumper - removal and installation
Dirt shield - removal and installation
Windshield washer reservoir - topping up fluid level
Windshield wiper blades - replacing
Outside rear-view mirror - removal and installation
Internal rear-view mirror - removal and installation
Front door - removal and installation
Front door trim - removal and installation
Front door glass - removal and installation
Front door window regulator mechanism - removal and installation
Front door lock, cylinder and outside handle - removal and installation
Rear door glass - removal and installation
Rear door window regulator mechanism - removal and installation
Rear door lock and outer handle - removal and installation
The lock and the cylinder of the lock of the trunk lid - removal and installation
Trunk lid - removal and installation
Front seat - removal and installation
Front seat adjustment mechanisms - disassembly
Back seat - removal and installation
Radio receiver panel - removal and installation
Instrument panel - removal and installation

28. The ventilation and heating system of the interior of the VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Heater tap - replacement
Heater blower motor - replacement
Heater radiator - replacement

Wiring diagrams of the car VAZ 2107

at the top of the support, put grease on the boot, if it can be easily removed (if not, then we don’t touch - you can break it, just go cleanly);
in the bottom, take in grease with a press-grease.

When you move, you get a rumble, by pressing on the grip, it will drop

How to unscrew candles? We tried all 3 sparkling keys. What other ways are there?

GUL-clutch release
Candle- normal set of heads

If life has pushed you with an injector 406 engine, then read this article. There are some descriptions of the advantages of this motor, whether it is worth installing HBO on a car with such a motor, what kind of malfunctions are met and the methods of their installation.

You will know: what types of supplies are in your car, where they are found, how to check their operation. And in the end you will receive a few tips on how to replace them.

A person is painfully aware of the car's strips. First of all, because of the cost of replacement. This article will tell you how you need to replace the pump for BAZ 2109. After reading it, you can do it really well, which saves money.

VAZ 2107 is one of the legends of the domestic auto industry. The car was created as a luxury version of the VAZ 2105 model. At the same time, the differences affected not only the interior, but also other key components. In total, there are about 15 modifications that differ from the basic version. Unfortunately, the company's management decided to close production in 2012.

For 30 years, a huge number of cars of the described model have been created. One of the most popular is the VAZ 21074, which received the engine from the VAZ 2106 model.

During the service, many cars have more than once gone through repairs of varying complexity.Let's take a look at the generator and related faults.

Many car owners have replaced the carburetor with an injector on their own, and someone bought a car with an already updated system. One thing is certain - it is a step forward. But that means changing the way many nodes work. How are things going with the generator, its operation and repair?

There are differences, albeit insignificant. The injector assumes the presence of an ECU on board the VAZ 21074 car. And this is another consumer of electricity. Additional wiring is connected to the generator to provide power to the elements of the electronic control system. There are no more changes.

It is impossible to check the generator's performance by disconnecting the terminals from the battery while the engine is running. This will damage the ECU.

The generator was installed for a reason. Without it, the operation of the car is impossible. It contains the functions:

generating electricity;
converting current from alternating to direct;
battery charging;
power supply of devices, sensors, any units that require electricity;
power supply of auxiliary devices (radio tape recorder, fan, etc.).

What malfunctions occur if the generator is not working properly?

Extraneous noises appear.
Complete lack of battery charging while the engine is running.
Overheating and failure of the same battery.
Damage to any or all power consumers, including the injector.
Overvoltage or undervoltage in the electrical system. The standard voltage is 13.6-14.5 V.
Mechanical or electrical damage to the elements of the generator itself.

Obviously, this site requires special attention.

To understand where to look, you need to remember the main building blocks that make up the generator. This:

pulley;
front bearing;
rotor impeller;
stator winding;
magnetic circuit;
rotor;
rear bearing;
"Chocolate" (relay-regulator);
diode bridge.

Most often, the brushes that are part of the relay-regulator unit wear out. Bearing wear is also common. You should also expect breakdowns of the diode bridge and the alternator belt (drives the pulley). Another part that requires periodic replacement is slip rings. They are located on the rotor and in contact with the brushes.

To increase the service life, you should regularly lubricate the mechanical components of the device (especially the bearings), measure the voltage, battery charge level and its condition, tighten the fasteners. If you suspect a particular breakdown, you need to immediately start repairs, otherwise there is a risk of failure of any connected device and node. If an injector and an ECU are installed on the car, then they are not joking with electricity. And the most common care and prevention will reduce the likelihood of breakage to almost nothing.

To carry out repairs, you need to have a general understanding of electricity and its properties. If with mechanical failures everything is much simpler and often a visual inspection is enough to detect the part requiring replacement, then with electrical failures there is no such clear visualization. Moreover, the initial cause of generator breakdowns may be a malfunction of another unit of a VAZ 21074 car, for example, the same battery. And vice versa. A chain reaction is very often found, with damage to several nodes.

In such cases, it is important to find the cause before taking action. Otherwise, there is no guarantee that after replacing one or another element, everything will not be repeated.

As mentioned earlier, you cannot check the operation of the generator on the VAZ 21074 using the old method with folding the terminals. Don't forget about the injector and ECU.

It is better not to buy a used generator, but to take a new one. But even in this case, you need to check the readings of the voltmeter and battery charging more often than usual. Alas, even new factory products are sometimes defective. Therefore, it is better to play it safe, thereby protecting all electronics, injector, battery and other devices from overvoltage. This is really important.If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to immediately contact the workshop. And one more important detail. In the event of failure of any element installed in the generator, service centers first of all offer its complete replacement, and not partial. Of course, this approach has its advantages, but when the warranty period has expired, it is very expensive.The body of the voltage regulator unit gets very hot during operation. You need to keep the wires away from it.For regular monitoring of voltage fluctuations and battery charge levels, you can purchase an on-board computer that includes a similar function. In addition, it will be useful for many other units of the VAZ 21074. Such a device is indispensable on cars where the injector is installed.Let's start with the simplest and most obvious. From the work of indicators. These are the difficulties that may arise.To eliminate the malfunction, you will need to replace the diode bridge with a new one. The reason for this was the closure on it. You can try to repair it, but this requires knowledge. The replacement cost is low.This will require checking all wiring and contacts. The fuse box is often the cause of this incident. It is necessary to check the voltage in all areas to determine the location of the malfunction. If the generator is the cause, then you need to check the belt tension, pulley stability. Further, the "chocolate", brushes, diode bridge are to be checked.

The installation of the injector in the VAZ 2107 made it possible to significantly improve the performance of the engine. Changing the type of fuel system increases the amount of energy that is generated during the combustion of gasoline. Compared to a carbureted engine, the fuel injection system is more efficient in the initial stages, but its performance decreases over time. What does it depend on?

VAZ 2107 injector plays the role of a final element in the fuel system of a car. The air mixture, together with a cloud of atomized gasoline, creates an enormous amount of energy. Over time, this spraying can become less effective, the jets of fuel become weak, and all due to poor quality gasoline.

The main reason for malfunctioning injectors is poor fuel. Fuel for a car consists of many chemical components, in addition, various impurities are added to it, which should improve the overall performance of the engine. This factor cannot be ignored, since such gasoline leaves a sludge on the walls of the fuel system. The thinnest channels are in the injectors, and it is these devices that suffer in the first place. VAZ 21074 injector has the same problem. During operation, fuel deposits only accumulate. What needs to be done to stop this?

The injector device is very sensitive to large inclusions in gasoline. If you are using a cheap brand of fuel, be prepared to change your injectors soon. So the first thing to do for your VAZ fuel pump is to change the brand of fuel. The power supply system of the VAZ 2107 should become cleaner, the possibility of plaque formation in the system is still not excluded. Since the flammable liquid in the channels occasionally stagnates, and sometimes even freezes, an early breakdown can be prevented in only one way - by regular cleaning.

Approximately every 35-40 thousand km it is necessary to carry out preventive cleaning work of the fuel system. You need to rinse the channels with your own hands. The performance of the engine will depend on the quality of cleaning. If this procedure is carried out irregularly, then soon you can say goodbye to one nozzle and look for a new one, and then you will have to change the rest of the VAZ fuel pump elements.

In 4-cylinder types of injection engines, there is a different intensity of clogging of the injectors. In the area of cylinders 2 and 3 there is always an elevated temperature, therefore, the accumulation of sediment there occurs faster.

A prophylactic agent in such cases is considered to be a special admixture of polyesteramine. It prevents the accumulation of burns for a long time.

How to understand that an injector needs replacement, check or repair? Even without sensors, you can understand that repair of the elements of the fuel system is required if there are 1 of 2 main signs in models 2107, 21074:

Unstable engine operation. Sometimes it can stall or start poorly.
A far less obvious sign is power loss. This effect is noticeable if you are mainly driving at medium speed, but at high speed it is very noticeable.
The last sign is recorded only by sensors - the pressure inside the system rises.

The reason for such failures is clogging of the nozzles, even diagnostics are not needed.
Cleaning helps to restore the engine to its previous performance. If the problem persists after cleaning, it is worth checking the tubes and nozzles for damage or breakdowns. In such cases, it is better not to start the repair, but simply replace the damaged parts with new ones.

Sometimes it is impossible to independently determine where the damage is, and only then diagnostics in service centers will come in handy. A blockage can cause a rather serious breakdown of the VAZ 2107 injector, as well as rupture of channels. The pressure that builds up inside the system can easily render the most fragile parts unusable. Here, with your own hands, you will not be able to correct the situation, even if you have a complete diagram of the car at hand. There is only one conclusion - you need to pay a lot of time and attention to cleaning the injectors and perform it regularly.

To repair the fuel system with your own hands at a VAZ, you will need to remove the receiver.This is done in several stages:

First, the throttle controls are removed from the receiver, then the retaining clamp is loosened and the vacuum hose is disconnected.

The fuel pipe holder is being dismantled.

The throttle cable bracket is removed.

5 fastening nuts are twisted, the pressure regulation hose is disconnected.After that, it will turn out to remove the receiver from the studs.

This is the only way to gain access to the fuel rail.Model 2107 and VAZ 21074 injector have common problems with the fuel system due to the injection type of fuel atomization. With your own hands, you can clean the channels, check for damage and replace parts if necessary.

VAZ 21074 has good technical characteristics. It is a rear wheel drive car, a 4-door sedan that can be loaded with up to 500 kg. The engine in this model is a four-cylinder, eight-valve, 1.6 liters. At the same time, the engine power is 73 hp. With. The maximum speed of the vehicle is 150 km / h.

In this model, there is already an independent front suspension, which makes it more stable on the road, the rear suspension has a rigid beam. The brake system is no different from other systems of VAZ carburetor models, the front brakes are disc brakes, while the rear ones are drum brakes.

An injection vehicle is equipped with a special computer module, which can be connected to make a complete diagnosis of the vehicle. This can be done at any specialized car service. The injection engine has proven itself very well. In the cold season, it starts up immediately, does not require a long warm-up, so you can start driving right away. At idle, the engine runs smoothly and quietly. Image - DIY repair vaz 21074 injector

Fuel consumption is significantly lower than that of the carburetor model. If the amount of fuel consumed has increased sharply, then the reasons for the high costs should be sought precisely in the injector and the computer module. If there is a program failure, the module is simply overwritten. The car of this model has several disadvantages. The exhaust catalyst is very low in it and can be easily damaged while driving on bad roads, and the cost of a new part is considerable.

It is very problematic to get to the necessary parts and sensors under the hood, since the engine in this model is old, and the body during assembly was not designed for the presence of an injector. In the carburetor model, all the elements under the hood are located much more conveniently. Another drawback in this car model is low noise insulation, which makes driving on the road not as comfortable as we would like.

The presence of indicator lamps on the instrument panel allows you to determine a breakdown in the car. It is the computer control unit that detects malfunctions and sends signals to the instrument panel. Many experts recommend installing a standard on-board computer, which will also show complete statistics on fuel consumption, more accurate data on battery voltage and engine tachometer. Image - DIY repair vaz 21074 injector

Some on-board computers are more modern and can warn about the need to change the engine oil.

Correct and careful use of the VAZ 21074 injector allows you to drive it for a long time. This model is not whimsical to repair. The cost of parts for an injection car does not differ much from the cost of parts for carburetor models, since these machines are almost identical.Timely replacement of oil and filters, as well as periodic diagnostics will allow you to move around the city without any problems.

In the family of "classics" VAZ 2107 is the last model of the conveyor assembly, which was mass-produced from 1982 to 2012. In recent years, its modification - LADA-21074, intended for sale in the automotive markets of other countries, has come off the assembly line. She had internal differences, in particular a different power unit and electrical control circuits.

Wiring diagram VAZ 21074 instrument panel assembly

The basis for the luxurious rear-wheel drive "classics" of the Soviet automobile industry was the platform of the VAZ 2105 car. The car was produced in two versions:

With the VAZ 2107 index - for the domestic market;
With the VAZ 21074 index (outside the country - LADA-21074) - for export.

The export version was slightly more expensive. Nevertheless, a significant part of VAZ 21074 cars were sold in Russia. And most of them to this day regularly serve their owners, who prefer to service the vehicle with their own hands.

However, in the process of repair and preventive maintenance of the car, the owner needs:

Instructions with wiring diagrams related to this model;
Knowledge of the basics of working with electrical systems of cars of the VAZ family (see also the article Wiring - VAZ 2109: what is possible and what is not)

Let's see what is the difference between the predecessor VAZ 2107 and modifications.

But first, let's define a list of these modifications that rolled off the assembly line in the indicated years:

A car with the LADA-21074 index;
A car with the LADA-21074-20 index;
A car with the LADA-21074-30 index.

For reference: In all three modifications, the car was equipped with a 1.6-liter power unit from the VAZ 2106 model with a capacity of 75 hp. This was reported in every promotional video of those years.

Differences in the indices of one model are explained as follows:

LADA 21074 - with a carburetor engine;
LADA 21074-20 - with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-2 standards;
LADA-21074-30 with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-3 standards.

The use of an injection system for supplying fuel to the cylinders led to the fact that the engine compartment wiring of the VAZ 21074 was produced for this modification.

She was in addition to the standard one, and served:

Electric fan drive chain;
Intake manifold throttle actuator control circuit;
The work of the electronic engine control system (ECM).

Power unit VAZ 21074 with injection power system

For the VAZ 21074 dashboard, a "donor" unit with a VAZ 2105 was used. Accordingly, the wiring diagram of the VAZ 21074 dashboard was borrowed in full.

Photo of the electrical diagram of the instrument panel VAZ 2105 and VAZ 21074

The fuel injection system cannot be operated without a fuel pump. On the VAZ 21074 model, an electric fuel pump was installed under the rear wing. For its operation, a separate wire was added to the standard wiring. And the fuel pump itself (below in the diagram under No. 9) worked in the electrical network together with:

Wiring diagram for the rear of the car VAZ 21074

Rear window heating elements (No. 10);
Interior lampshades (No. 7 and 8);
Additional braking signal behind the rear window (No. 11);
License plate lights (No. 14 and 15).

Due to the unification of many electronic components of the VAZ family, motorists spend time looking for the right wiring, not suspecting that it may have an index of another model.

The presented list contains indices of some of these products installed on the VAZ 21074:

Instrument Panel Wiring - 21053-3724030;
Instrument panel wiring - 21053-3724035-42;
Fuel Injector Wiring - 21214-3724036;
Starter connecting wire - 2101-3724060;
Ignition system wiring - 21073-3724026;
Rear wiring harness (flat) - 21073-3724210-10.

In the life of every motorist, a very important day inevitably comes - the day when it comes time to change the oil in the engine of your iron horse. An oil change in a VAZ 21074 is carried out after every 10 thousand run; however, various circumstances can make the car enthusiast think about changing the oil.
Changing the oil for a VAZ 21074 is a process that you can safely carry out on your own. Image - DIY repair vaz 21074 injector

Oil change vaz 21074 injector

Due to the difficult operating conditions of the car, the oil in the engine can become unusable much earlier than the owner expects. However, sometimes the operating conditions have nothing to do with it - unfortunately, no one is insured against the purchase of low-quality oil.
Almost always, that it is time to change the oil is signaled by certain signs:

the liquid becomes much darker;
the liquid becomes too thin.

The oil in the engine of a used car VAZ 21074 is a real pig in a poke, which, moreover, is not at all averse to naughty: it is not known what the previous owner preferred to pour into the engine, and if there, in place of the oil, there is a suspicious black slurry, do not panic worth it - you just need to quickly replace it with normal oil.

Note. Ignoring this advice can lead to very serious consequences, up to and including damage to the car's engine.

Some motorists argue that if the car is not used often, then the oil practically does not need to be replaced at all, which often misleads their less experienced comrades.

In fact, when the car is not started for a long time, condensation accumulates in the engine, which gets into the oil, thereby making it dangerous for the engine parts, especially the injector.

Note. Two days of downtime is not a lot: nothing will happen to the oil during this time, but a few weeks is already quite a lot.

New VAZ 2107 engines need more frequent oil changes, so owners of "fresh" cars, as well as car owners who have overhauled the engine of their iron friend, need to think about changing the oil after every 5 thousand runs throughout the entire running-in period.

Of course, this is not necessary, but it gives an additional guarantee that the engine will last a long time.

You can find out what type of oil needs to be poured into the car from the operating manual of the VAZ 2107. Of course, there will not be a specific oil indicated - only its type.

The owner can always find out which oil is better to buy for a car on the Internet - on special sites and forums. In addition, most likely, every motorist has friends who have changed the oil in their cars more than once and will be happy to give advice to a friend.

Note. It is not worth buying cheap oil - you can run into a fake or simply a low-quality product.

When you come to the store for oil, you need to remember to buy an oil filter: it also changes after 10 thousand kilometers. They come in three types, so the car enthusiast should find out in advance which one is suitable for his car.
So:

Directly in the store, you need to verify the quality of the filter by checking whether the paper used in it is thin enough and how resistant it is to high temperatures.
It is not worth buying a damaged or rusty filter, as well as a filter without packaging.

Having bought a suitable oil and a good oil filter, you can proceed directly to changing the oil; however, absolutely nothing can be done without the right tools.
So, you will need:

Note. It is advisable to change the oil on the overpass, but if it is not nearby, you can use the inspection pit.

First of all, a car enthusiast needs to find a special plug on the engine sump, which is designed to drain the oil... You need to unscrew it very carefully, otherwise you can burn yourself with the hot liquid, which will first come out of the hole under the plug with a rather large pressure.
You also need to remember to substitute a previously prepared container. The old oil will drain for about 10 minutes, so you can have time to rest and once again scroll through the plan of further actions in your head.
When the oil is drained, you will need to remove the filter; This can be done in several ways:

With a puller. This method is the easiest - you just need to take a special tool and unscrew the filter.
With a screwdriver.The screwdriver must be inserted into one of the places that are used to secure the puller, and then start unscrewing the filter.
With an awl or wire. With the help of these objects, you can do the same actions as with a screwdriver, however, they are even more inconvenient.

Note. Certain precautions must be taken when removing the filter. Not only is it hot itself, but it also contains 100-200 grams of oil, which also has a high temperature.

Advice. Before you start praising yourself for the work done on removing the old filter, you need to make sure that it has not left its gasket in the engine mount, which could interfere with the installation of a new part.

So, let's proceed to the most important actions:

in a new filter, immediately before installation, you need to pour 150-200 grams of oil, and also lubricate its O-rings (when installing a new part, it is very important not to overdo it and not to tighten it more than necessary, which is quite possible, due to the fact that oil filters are pretty easy);

Pour oil into the new filter

putting the drain plug in place is not difficult at all - this will require the already familiar 17 key;
after the old oil has been drained and the new filter has been successfully put into place, you can fill in new oil (for this you need to unscrew the oil plug by hand, insert a funnel into the opened hole, and get ready to pour new fluid into the engine);
you need to pour oil slowly and carefully, sometimes checking its level with a dipstick: if it turns out to be not enough, then you can always top up, but if too much has been poured, you will have to go back a few steps - go to unscrewing the drain plug; excessive oil in the engine can adversely affect the operation of its mechanisms;
as a result, the engine should have 2.8 - 3 liters of new oil (the mark on the dipstick should not be in the very middle of the meter, but a few centimeters from the MAX mark);
pouring new oil, you need to start the engine and wait about 10 minutes (if the oil pressure light was on in the car before changing the fluid, then it should go out during this time);
after 10 minutes, after stopping the engine, you need to check the oil level again - it may have changed.

Note. It is important not to forget to wipe the dipstick before measuring, otherwise accurate measurement will not work.

if there is more oil in the engine than necessary, you will have to drain the excess, and if there is not enough oil, add more.

Note. When the car is at a standstill, the oil in the engine thickens, therefore it is recommended to replace it with a warm engine - then the liquid will surely flow out to the end.

It is not worth adding new oil to the old oil in the engine, even if it is absolutely identical to the one that has already been filled - it is always better to replace it. If you supplement the old oil with new, moreover, completely different, you can get an extremely dangerous liquid for the car.

All motor fluids differ in the composition and amount of additives, and this must be remembered.

In approximately the same way, the oil change in the gearbox is carried out on the VAZ 21074. Only in this case it will not need to be changed so often.
Approximately every 50 thousand kilometers, a replacement will come in handy.