In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 21074 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
download photo to mobile 
technical manual for the operation of the car VAZ 2107 with engines 2103, 2106, 2104i and 21067i
carburetor / injector
service, specifications, diagrams, repair
1. General information of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
The main dimensions of the vaz 2107
Specifications
The location of the main components and assemblies of the car VAZ 2107
Identity data
2. Governing bodies and control devices of the car VAZ 2107
Location of controls and instruments
Ignition switch (lock)
Instrument panel and rocker switches
Steering column switches
The block of regulators of the hydrocorrector of headlights and illumination of devices
Heating and ventilation control unit
4. Tools, fixtures and operating materials
Universal tool
Special tools and devices for the repair of a vaz 2107
Operational materials
9. Power system of the carburetor engine of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Thermostat - changing the damper position
Air filter element - replacement
Fuel filter - installation and replacement
Air filter housing - removal and installation
Fuel pump - removal and installation
Fuel pump filter - cleaning
Fuel pump diaphragm - replacement
Fuel tank - removal and installation
Carburetor Fuel Filter - Cleaning
Carburetor drive - check and adjustment
Air damper actuator - check and adjustment
Fuel level in the float chamber - checking and adjusting
Idling - adjustment
Starting device - checking and adjusting
Carburetor - removal and installation
Needle valve and float - replacement
Carburetor cover - removal and disassembly
Carburetor body - disassembly
Pneumatic throttle valve - removal and installation
Forced idle economizer system (EPHH)
Forced idle economizer (EPHH) - check and replace
EPHH system microswitch - check and replacement
Electro-pneumatic valve - check and replace
Electro-pneumatic valve control unit - check and replace
 |
Video (click to play). |
10. Power supply system of the injection engine VAZ 2107
Description of the injection system design
Relief of pressure in the power supply system
Fuel filter - replacement
Supply pressure - check
Pressure regulator - removal and installation
Electric gasoline pump with a fuel level indicator sensor - removal and installation
Fuel rail - removing, installing and checking injectors
Idle speed regulator - check, removal and installation
Throttle body - removal and installation
Fuel tank-removal and installation
Air filter element - replacement
Air filter housing - removal and installation
Throttle cable - replacement
Adsorber - check the purge valve, removal and installation
11. Control system of the car engine VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the engine control system
Engine Management System Repair Precautions
Fuses and relays for the engine management system - replacement
Electronic control unit (ECU) - removal and installation
Crankshaft position sensor - check and replace
Coolant temperature sensor - check and replace
Throttle position sensor - check and replace
Mass air flow sensor - check and replace
Oxygen concentration sensor - check and replace
Speed sensor - removal and installation
Ignition coil - check and replace
12. Cooling system of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the cooling system
Coolant - level check and replacement
Thermostat - replacement
Electric fan activation sensor - replacement
Coolant Temperature Gauge Sensor - Replacement
Expansion tank - replacement
Radiator fan - removal and installation
Radiator - removal and installation
Coolant pump - removal and installation
13. The exhaust system of the VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Downpipe - removal and installation
Additional muffler - removal and installation
Catalytic converter - removal and installation
The main muffler - removal and installation
Transmission of the car vaz 2107
14. Clutch car VAZ 2107
Clutch design description
Hydraulic clutch release - check and adjustment
Hydraulic clutch release - check fluid level
Hydraulic clutch release - fluid change and bleeding
Clutch release hydraulic reservoir - removal and installation
Clutch release master cylinder - removal and installation
Clutch slave cylinder - removal and installation
Clutch release hydraulic hose - removal and installation
Clutch parts - removal and installation
15. Gearbox car VAZ 2107
Gearbox design description
Gearbox - Checking the oil level and changing the oil
Speedometer drive - replacement
Reversing light switch - check and replace
Output shaft oil seal - replacement
Transmission - removal and installation
Gearbox - disassembly and assembly
16. Cardan transmission of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the design of the cardan transmission
Cardan drive - technical condition check
Cardan transmission - removal and installation
Cardan drive - disassembly and assembly
17. Rear axle of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure of the rear axle
Rear axle - check oil level and change oil
Main drive pinion oil seal - replacement
Axle shaft - removal and installation, oil seal replacement
Rear axle reducer - removal and installation
Rear axle - removal and installation
18. Front suspension of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Front suspension - technical check
Wheel alignment angles - camber, toe - adjustment
Front Wheel Hub Bearings - Adjustment
Front hub - replacing the oil seal, grease and hub bearings
Front suspension shock absorber - replacement
Front suspension spring - replacement
Front suspension upper arm - removing and replacing silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges)
Silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges) of the lower arms - replacement
The lower arm of the front suspension - removal and installation
Cushions and anti-roll bar - replacement
Ball joints - replacement
19. Rear suspension of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Rear Suspension - Checking Technical Condition
Rear suspension rods - replacement
Rear suspension shock absorber - replacement
Rear suspension spring - replacement
20. Wheels and tires
general information
Tires - pressure check
Wheels and tires - technical check
Wheel - replacement
Tubeless tire - repair
21. Steering car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Steering - checking the technical condition and adjusting the steering mechanism
Steering gearbox - check oil level
Steering gear engagement - adjustment
Steering wheel - removal and installation
Steering shaft covers - removal and installation
Steering shaft - removal and installation
Steering rods - replacement
Steering gear reducer - removal and installation
Pendulum arm - replacement
22. Brake system of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Brake system - technical condition check
Hydraulic brake system - Checking the brake fluid level
Hydraulic brakes - bleeding and replacing brake fluid
Front brake pads - replacement
Rear wheel brake pads - replacement
The main brake cylinder - removal and installation
Vacuum brake booster - functional check
Vacuum brake booster - replacement
Front Wheel Brake - Disassembly
Brake light switch - position adjustment
Front Wheel Brake Hose - Replacing
Rear wheel slave cylinder - replacement
Rear brake hose - replacement
Brake pipes - replacement
Brake pressure regulator - check and replace
Parking brake - adjustment
Parking brake system - disassembly and assembly
23. Electrical equipment of the car VAZ 2107
General information
Relay and fuse mounting block
Relays and fuses - replacement
Ignition Relay, Hazard and Turn Signal Interrupter Relay - Replacement
Accumulator battery
Battery - maintenance
Accumulator battery - removal and installation
24. Generator vaz 2107
Alternator Drive Belt - Tension Adjustment and Replacement
Generator - removal and installation
Generator - check and repair
25. Starter VAZ 2107
Starter - removal and installation
Starter - check and repair
27. The body of the car VAZ 2107
Description of the body structure VAZ 2107
Body - cleaning drain holes and lubricating rubbing parts
Radiator lining - removal and installation
Hood - removal and installation
Bonnet lock and lock drive cable - removal and installation
Front bumper - removal and installation
Rear bumper - removal and installation
Dirt shield - removal and installation
Windshield washer reservoir - topping up fluid level
Windshield wiper blades - replacing
Outside rear-view mirror - removal and installation
Internal rear-view mirror - removal and installation
Front door - removal and installation
Front door trim - removal and installation
Front door glass - removal and installation
Front door window regulator mechanism - removal and installation
Front door lock, cylinder and outside handle - removal and installation
Rear door glass - removal and installation
Rear door window regulator mechanism - removal and installation
Rear door lock and outer handle - removal and installation
The lock and the cylinder of the lock of the trunk lid - removal and installation
Trunk lid - removal and installation
Front seat - removal and installation
Front seat adjustment mechanisms - disassembly
Back seat - removal and installation
Radio receiver panel - removal and installation
Instrument panel - removal and installation
28. The ventilation and heating system of the interior of the VAZ 2107
Description of the structure
Heater tap - replacement
Heater blower motor - replacement
Heater radiator - replacement
Wiring diagrams of the car VAZ 2107
- at the top of the support, put grease on the boot, if it can be easily removed (if not, then we don’t touch - you can break it, just go cleanly);
- in the bottom, take in grease with a press-grease.
When you move, you get a rumble, by pressing on the grip, it will drop
How to unscrew candles? We have tried all 3 candle keys. What other ways are there?
GUL-clutch release
Candle- normal set of heads
If life has pushed you with an injector 406 engine, then read this article. There are some descriptions of the advantages of this motor, whether it is worth installing HBO on a car with such a motor, what kind of malfunctions are met and the methods of their installation.
You will know: what types of supplies are in your car, where they are found, how to check their operation. And in the end you will receive a few tips on how to replace them.
A person is painfully aware of the car's strips. First of all, due to expenses for replacement. This article will tell you how you need to replace the pump for BAZ 2109. After reading it, you can do it really well, which saves money.
In the family of "classics" VAZ 2107 is the last model of the conveyor assembly, which was mass-produced from 1982 to 2012. In recent years, its modification - LADA-21074, intended for sale in the automotive markets of other countries, has come off the assembly line. She had internal differences, in particular a different power unit and electrical control circuits.
Wiring diagram VAZ 21074 instrument panel assembly
The basis for the luxury rear-wheel drive "classics" of the Soviet automobile industry was the platform of the VAZ 2105 car. The car was produced in two versions:
- With the VAZ 2107 index - for the domestic market;
- With the VAZ 21074 index (outside the country - LADA-21074) - for export.
The export version was slightly more expensive. Nevertheless, a significant part of VAZ 21074 cars were sold in Russia. And most of them to this day regularly serve their owners, who prefer to service the vehicle with their own hands.
However, in the process of repair and preventive maintenance of the car, the owner needs:
- Instructions with wiring diagrams related to this model;
- Knowledge of the basics of working with electrical systems of cars of the VAZ family (see also the article Wiring - VAZ 2109: what is possible and what is not)
Let's see what is the difference between the predecessor VAZ 2107 and modifications.
But first, let's define a list of these modifications that rolled off the assembly line in the indicated years:
- A car with the LADA-21074 index;
- A car with the LADA-21074-20 index;
- A car with the LADA-21074-30 index.
For reference: In all three modifications, the car was equipped with a 1.6-liter power unit from the VAZ 2106 model with a capacity of 75 hp. This was reported in every promotional video of those years.
Differences in the indices of one model are explained as follows:
- LADA 21074 - with a carburetor engine;
- LADA 21074-20 - with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-2 standards;
- LADA-21074-30 with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-3 standards.
The use of an injection system for supplying fuel to the cylinders led to the fact that the engine compartment wiring of the VAZ 21074 was produced for this modification.
She was in addition to the standard one, and served:
- Electric fan drive chain;
- Intake manifold throttle actuator control circuit;
- The work of the electronic engine control system (ECM).
Power unit VAZ 21074 with injection power system
For the VAZ 21074 dashboard, a "donor" unit with a VAZ 2105 was used. Accordingly, the wiring diagram of the VAZ 21074 dashboard was borrowed in full.
Photo of the electrical diagram of the instrument panel VAZ 2105 and VAZ 21074
The fuel injection system cannot be operated without a fuel pump. On the VAZ 21074 model, an electric fuel pump was installed under the rear wing. For its operation, a separate wire was added to the standard wiring. And the fuel pump itself (below in the diagram under No. 9) worked in the electrical network together with:
Wiring diagram for the rear of the car VAZ 21074
- Rear window heating elements (No. 10);
- Interior lampshades (No. 7 and 8);
- Additional braking signal behind the rear window (No. 11);
- License plate lights (No. 14 and 15).
Due to the unification of many electronic components of the VAZ family, motorists spend time looking for the desired wiring, not suspecting that it may have an index of another model.
The presented list contains indices of some of these products installed on the VAZ 21074:
- Instrument panel wiring - 21053-3724030;
- Instrument panel wiring - 21053-3724035-42;
- Fuel Injector Wiring - 21214-3724036;
- Starter connecting wire - 2101-3724060;
- Ignition system wiring - 21073-3724026;
- Rear wiring harness (flat) - 21073-3724210-10.
We express our confidence that now you know the differences between the modifications of the VAZ 21074 car and, thanks to the attached diagrams, you will be able to restore the operability of any electrical component.
It would seem, what new can you learn about the G7? Let's be honest: almost nothing. Of course, we will tell you how to change the fuel filter or generator belt yourself - the format is binding. But nevertheless, the main idea of the work outlined below will be the thought of humility and patience, the decay of the world and readiness for self-sacrifice. And it's not just words. This is what the owner of Russian "classics" is always ready for, the owner of which does not evoke affection. "Penny" , but what came out of the VAZ assembly line until 2012. For some, the VAZ-2107 will become the first car, and it can also be suitable as a teaching aid: it's hard to break something here, but you can endlessly repair it. And the car has good sides. If you look.
By and large, the "seven" is the result of the sluggish evolution of the first model Zhiguli, the VAZ-2101. The idea was not bad - to make a restyling of the VAZ-2105, but somehow it turned out not very well. Outwardly, they changed the shape of the hood, cladding, a little - the trunk lid, new front and rear bumpers appeared. The interior was slightly more modernized: the driver's and front passenger's seats received backrests made at the same time as the head restraints, the interior trim was changed. The main difference lies in the new dashboard and dashboard. The power units were also updated: at the time of the release of the first VAZ-2107, it could be equipped with a new 77 hp carburetor engine. It was in 1982, and from that moment until the end of production in 2012 in Russia (in Egypt they were collected until last year), the "seven" tried many motors. Among them were weak "five" with a volume of 1.3 liters, there were 1.6-liter injection engines, and the apotheosis of progress was a "spit" towards Mazda's engineers: a 140-horsepower rotary-piston engine of its own design. But there are practically no such machines, so we will not talk about them yet.
In 2001, VAZ began to offer as many as three configurations of the "seven": "standard", "norm" and "luxury". It is a pity that the series did not include an interesting proposal from designers to build a mini-refrigerator under the rear shelf: the admissions committee considered it too chic, so there were no such configurations. And good: otherwise u Toyota Land Cruiser 200 would have had a heart attack from the sight of a "luxury" VAZ-2107, and even with a mini-refrigerator.
In total, there are ten different modifications of the "seven". She held on to the last, only Grant was able to move her off the assembly line, which in itself is very good. The cost of the simplest VAZ-2107 at that time was a little less than two hundred thousand rubles. Now this already seems like a ridiculous amount (thanks to inflation), and even then it was the most affordable car in this class.
Today, the "seven" of the last years of production can be bought in thousands for 100-180, depending on the condition and adequacy of the owner, and cars of the early 80s - thousands for 20-30. Let's not go to extremes and take a look at the car of 2004, the mileage of which is 82 thousand kilometers. She has a 1.6-liter carburetor engine, power - 75 hp. Our copy is an example of a real clear "kid" car - one spoiler is worth it! But they serve him well: the owner of the G7 does almost everything himself, knows his car, does not hide secrets. And what secrets there may be - nothing is easier to find than "seven", probably.
The power unit of the "classics", like the rest of its design, firmly follows the army principle "if you don't know how, we will teach, if you do not want, we will force it." Willy-nilly, the owner of the Zhiguli is forced to acquire knowledge about his car, because every time you don’t roll into the service, and not everyone likes to get involved with these cars. As the experts explained, when you change one part, you have to change the one to which you screw the new one. And how long this chain will be is always a mystery. Therefore, the owner of the "classic" usually knows his car better than the owner of Toyota or Audi.
One of the main concerns is valve adjustment. We will not talk about how to do it on the basis of the principle: there are a lot of descriptions of the procedure on the Internet, and those who want to will find detailed instructions. The second such operation is the replacement of the timing chain. Theoretically, you can do it yourself, saving from three to five thousand on visits to the service. But again: those who understand ICE so much that they are capable of such work will find thematic materials. We will tell you about what you can do even in the open air, with a couple of screwdrivers and keys. For the previous operations, we will give the following figures: the cost of the chain will be about 700 rubles, a set of sprockets - about 1,200. A sealant may also come in handy, on which you will need to plant the chain cover. It costs no more than two hundred rubles.
Let's start with the traditional operation - changing the engine oil.Here the VAZ engine has an undeniable advantage: access to its units is almost always excellent. The filter can be unscrewed both from the top and from the bottom (of course, if there is no crankcase protection). The drain hole is just as easy to find, but you may need a hex wrench to unscrew the plug. I think that there is no point in citing the cost of consumables, so as not to arouse the envy of foreign car lovers. Okay, I can't help it: you can buy an oil filter for 150 rubles, and an air filter will cost the same. The alternator belt (it also goes to the cooling pump) costs 130-400 rubles. By the way, replacing the latter in the service will cost 500 rubles, but you can do this work yourself. The tension is adjusted traditionally for VAZ: with a pry bar resting against the generator case with loosened nuts of the lower attachment and attachment to the bracket. Replacement may also be necessary when the belt is heavily soiled, and due to its low cost, it is better to do this in advance. The required set of tools is a 17x19 wrench and a pry bar.
Every owner of a domestic car VAZ 2107 should know how the car's suspension works. The undercarriage requires periodic maintenance, which includes the replacement of worn out elements. You can do this work with your own hands if you know how to properly remove or install this or that part. In this material, we will tell you in detail about this.
VAZ 2107 is the last car of the domestic automaker, produced according to the classic layout, that is, with rear-wheel drive. Many Russian motorists prefer rear-wheel drive cars, therefore the so-called seven is popular to this day. The car's chassis consists of a front and rear suspension. The front one has a fairly simple design, so everyone can cope with its periodic repairs.
In front, the VAZ 2107 suspension has an independent design and consists of two levers: one on top, the second on the bottom. There is also a coil spring and a telescopic shock-absorber-strut. The suspension has an anti-roll bar.
The lower arm is firmly bolted to the axle with an axle, and it, in turn, is supported by the front spars. The upper arm is attached to the mudguard strut, but the lever has no axle of its own - it is a long bolt that runs through the strut.
To ensure the rotation of the levers around the axis, silent blocks are provided in the design, which are rubber-metal hinges. At the ends of the levers there are ball joints, to which a steering knuckle with a trunnion for installing the hub is attached. The coil spring is located between the mudguard post and the lower arm. So that it does not budge, the ends are installed in the support cups. There are hydraulic shock absorbers inside the spring. The shock absorber housing is attached to the lower arm via a rubber-to-metal hinge.
The shock absorber rod is attached to the body via rubber pads. The anti-roll bar is attached at the ends to the lower arms of the chassis, and in the center to the side members. To exclude contact of the side members with the stabilizer, rubber cushions are located between them.
The malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 suspension include wear of the rubber suspension elements, and ball bearings can also wear out. Sometimes during operation, springs and shock absorbers fail.
You can repair the front suspension of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands in a garage, but first you need to diagnose its condition. Drive the car to an inspection pit or overpass, and during inspection, determine the condition of the rubber elements, check all the gaps in the ball joints and make sure there are no oil leaks from the shock absorber, and also check the integrity of the spring.
To check the condition of the shock absorber with your own hands, you need to firmly press the wing of the car from above, achieving compression of the shock absorber. Then let go and notice how the car behaves. The shock absorber should instantly take its initial position without unnecessary hesitation.If the struts are heavily worn, the machine will wobble and have to be replaced.
To replace the ball bearings, it is necessary to dismantle the wheel and clean the suspension elements from dirt. After that, substitute a jack under the lower arm and raise it - this way you load the VAZ 2107 suspension.
Using a wrench, unscrew the nut of the upper ball joint pin, and then press the pin out of the steering knuckle. As soon as the finger comes out of the fist, unscrew the ball mount and remove it from the upper arm with a protective boot. Instead of the old ball, insert a new one and reassemble everything in the reverse order. The lower ball is changed in the same way. After replacing them, contact the service center to adjust the camber and toe, as you will not be able to do this on your own.
To replace the silent blocks of the VAZ 2107 with your own hands, you will need not only keys, but also a special puller. If they are in the upper arm, it will have to be completely dismantled, and in the case of the lower arm, this is not necessary. To remove the upper arm, press the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle. Next, remove the bumper mounting bolt and unscrew the nuts holding the upper arm axle, and then remove it. Remove the upper arm from the machine.
After that, using a puller, you need to pull out the worn out silent blocks, and then use it to insert new ones. The installation of the lever is carried out in the reverse order, but to install the ball bearing pin, you need to load the suspension with a jack placed under the lower lever.
To replace the silent blocks of the lower arm, it is not necessary to remove it. Just unscrew the nuts of the lever axle and remove the hinges with a puller. Then put the new ones in their places and tighten the nuts. It is necessary to remove the lower arm if it is damaged, but this is rare.
When the shock absorber struts wear out, they have to be changed. If one of them breaks down, you still need to change them in pairs. To replace the shock absorber, first unscrew the stem securing nut, and then remove the washers and the upper rubber cushion from the stem.
Unscrew the lower strut mounting bracket from the lower arm, and through the technological hole in the arm, pull out the damaged shock absorber. Then remove it from the mounting bracket and install the new stand in the reverse order.
To replace worn or damaged springs, the shock absorber must be dismantled and disconnected from the stabilizer arm. Further, the nuts that hold the axis of the lower arm on the cross member are loosened. Jack up the lower arm, but do not load the suspension. Remove the ball joint pin with a puller.
Next, gently lower the jack by loosening the spring. Using a spatula, it should be removed from the lower support cup. Before installing a new spring, it is compressed with special ties so that it fits into its place.
The new spring is installed in the lower support cup, and then, using a jack, the lower lever is pushed upwards, which will allow its ball joint to be inserted into the steering knuckle.
After fixing the support, remove the ties from the spring. Assemble other parts of the suspension in reverse order. As you can see, repairing a VAZ 2107 with your own hands is not very difficult work if you follow our instructions.
In the family of "classics" VAZ 2107 is the last model of the conveyor assembly, which was mass-produced from 1982 to 2012. In recent years, its modification - LADA-21074, intended for sale in the automotive markets of other countries, has come off the assembly line. She had internal differences, in particular a different power unit and electrical control circuits.
Wiring diagram VAZ 21074 instrument panel assembly
The basis for the luxurious rear-wheel drive "classics" of the Soviet automobile industry was the platform of the VAZ 2105 car. The car was produced in two versions:
- With the VAZ 2107 index - for the domestic market;
- With the VAZ 21074 index (outside the country - LADA-21074) - for export.
The export version was slightly more expensive. Nevertheless, a significant part of VAZ 21074 cars were sold in Russia.And most of them to this day regularly serve their owners, who prefer to service the vehicle with their own hands.
However, in the process of repair and preventive maintenance of the car, the owner needs:
- Instructions with wiring diagrams related to this model;
- Knowledge of the basics of working with electrical systems of cars of the VAZ family (see also the article Wiring - VAZ 2109: what is possible and what is not)
Let's see what is the difference between the predecessor VAZ 2107 and modifications.
But first, let's define a list of these modifications that rolled off the assembly line in the indicated years:
- A car with the LADA-21074 index;
- A car with the LADA-21074-20 index;
- A car with the LADA-21074-30 index.
For reference: In all three modifications, the car was equipped with a 1.6-liter power unit from the VAZ 2106 model with a capacity of 75 hp. This was reported in every promotional video of those years.
Differences in the indices of one model are explained as follows:
- LADA 21074 - with a carburetor engine;
- LADA 21074-20 - with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-2 standards;
- LADA-21074-30 with multipoint injection. Complies with EURO-3 standards.
The use of an injection system for supplying fuel to the cylinders led to the fact that the engine compartment wiring of the VAZ 21074 was produced for this modification.
She was in addition to the standard one, and served:
- Electric fan drive chain;
- Intake manifold throttle actuator control circuit;
- The work of the electronic engine control system (ECM).
Power unit VAZ 21074 with injection power system
For the VAZ 21074 dashboard, a "donor" unit with a VAZ 2105 was used. Accordingly, the wiring diagram of the VAZ 21074 dashboard was borrowed in full.
Photo of the electrical diagram of the instrument panel VAZ 2105 and VAZ 21074
The fuel injection system cannot be operated without a fuel pump. On the VAZ 21074 model, an electric fuel pump was installed under the rear wing. For its operation, a separate wire was added to the standard wiring. And the fuel pump itself (below in the diagram under No. 9) worked in the electrical network together with:
Wiring diagram for the rear of the car VAZ 21074
- Rear window heating elements (No. 10);
- Interior lampshades (No. 7 and 8);
- Additional braking signal behind the rear window (No. 11);
- License plate lights (No. 14 and 15).
Due to the unification of many electronic components of the VAZ family, motorists spend time looking for the right wiring, not suspecting that it may have an index of another model.
The presented list contains indices of some of these products installed on the VAZ 21074:
- Instrument Panel Wiring - 21053-3724030;
- Instrument panel wiring - 21053-3724035-42;
- Fuel Injector Wiring - 21214-3724036;
- Starter connecting wire - 2101-3724060;
- Ignition system wiring - 21073-3724026;
- Rear wiring harness (flat) - 21073-3724210-10.
