Do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2110 stove replacement

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2110 stove replacement from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Stove VAZ 2110 perhaps the most problematic and capricious mechanism in the entire car design. You can't do without a stove or a faulty interior heater radiator on a VAZ 2110, given our cold climate. If in the summer a non-working stove may not bother you, then with the onset of the cold season it often turns out that the stove on the VAZ-2110 is blowing cold air. Today we will try to tell you in great detail about the device, repair and replacement of the heater on the top ten. For clarity, we will supplement the text with photos and videos.

Let's say right away that the design of the heating system on the “top ten” is fundamentally different from what was on the old VAZ models. The most important feature and difference between the interior heater is that stove radiator VAZ 2110 and its fan is not in the passenger compartment, but in the engine compartment. This design has its advantages, for example, to replace the heater radiator or stove fan, you do not need to completely disassemble the front panel (dashboard).

Another important difference is the electronic control of climate processes in the cabin. For this, the so-called automatic heater control system (SAUO). Photo of the SAUO block below.

By the way, the SAUO unit on the “dozens” of different years of manufacture is different. Since 1996, 4 types of SAUO controller have been produced. This should be taken into account when buying a unit as a spare part. It is this device that controls the temperature in the cabin and the operation of the fan. The temperature can be set from 16 to 28 degrees.

But how does this miracle device work? There is a temperature sensor or a ceiling air sensor with a built-in (very small) fan for air circulation on the ceiling of the “dozens” cabin. It is this sensor that sends information about the real temperature in the cabin, and the SAUO unit gives a command to the micro gear motor (MMP), which, in turn, opens or closes the main damper, which is responsible for the access of hot air to the cabin. When the temperature in the passenger compartment changes, the ceiling sensor gives a new signal, the micro geared motor is triggered by turning the damper, closing or opening the hot air access to the passenger compartment. Thus, the set temperature is automatically maintained. Further photo of the diagram of the air ducts of the VAZ 2110 heater.

Video (click to play).

Many owners of "ten" complain that at some point the stove constantly blows cold air and no turning of the handles of the automatic heater control system can save the situation in any way. There can be a lot of problems and malfunctions. For example, the SAUO controller itself, the ceiling sensor or the micro gear motor, which simply does not open or close the damper, is faulty. Another reason is the air (airlock) in the heater radiator, which is simply not able to heat the air passing through it. Further schematic image of the heater device VAZ 2110.

Often the reason for the poor performance of the heater "tens" is stove damper vaz 2110... The flap may not close tightly or open well. The heater flap itself is made of plastic, which can deform over time and work poorly. Many car owners buy a metal flap and change it on their own. How to check the performance and assess the condition of the stove damper? Quite simply, remove the central air duct deflector and here it is! We look at the photo.

Then you carefully examine the damper, turn on the stove, turn the regulators on the SAUO unit and see if the damper works at all. How does it move, whether it fits snugly.If she does not respond to commands, then the problem may not be in her at all. For one thing, you can see if the lever for redirecting the airflow from the glass to the legs works.

It is quite simple to determine the performance of the stove fan by noise. If the fan motor burns out, then naturally it will no longer work. True, before rushing to change the stove fan, you must make sure that the fuse has not blown. As we wrote above stove fan VAZ 2110 located not in the cabin, but in the engine compartment. To get to it, you will need to remove a special apron that separates the engine compartment from the heater housing, the vacuum brake booster and the wiper mechanism. The photo itself is below for clarity.

So we got to the stove fan, removing the apron and the heater cover. By the way, next to you you will see a cabin filter, in the casing a little to the left. It must be pulled out and cleaned. If no one has changed the filter before you, for many years of operation it is seriously clogged with debris and interferes with normal air circulation, which is sucked into the VAZ 2110 interior.

The radiator of the “dozens” stove is located in the same place as the fan, that is, under the hood (see photo above). To remove it, you must first remove the fan from the heater casing. If you notice a strange smell in the cabin, lift the rugs, if there are puddles of antifreeze or antifreeze, then stove radiator VAZ 2110 drip. Although they may no longer hold the clamps ... in any case, you will have to disassemble and find out the cause of the leak. Next, we offer a couple of video clips demonstrating the process of disassembling, removing the apron, stove fan, cabin filter and heater radiator.

Video of replacing the old-style “dozens” heater radiator.

Video of replacing the radiator of a new type of stove.

By the way, when replacing the heater stove, you can use the opportunity to replace and cabin filter VAZ 2110, so that later it would not be disassembled all over again. This will help you feel the fresh air and warmth of the repaired VAZ 2110 stove in the cabin.

For some unknown reason, many car owners ignore the drips from the radiator to the last. But if at first it is only about drops, over time the problem gets worse. It is no secret that a radiator without coolant, and in your case it means most likely antifreeze, will not be able to work.

We will consider the issue of replacing the node in our today's material.

Heating radiators used for the VAZ 2110 are usually divided into two types:

Until the fall of 2003, old radiators were installed on the "tenth" model, and then cars with new units began to be offered. There is practically no difference between them, but the repair differs in approach and complexity.

If you do not want to spend that kind of money, but you want to get an effective device with high quality indicators, then choose the DAAZ model. This radiator is made of aluminum, works well, and the price does not exceed 1000 rubles.First of all, you will need a new stove radiator. The choice is presented in a fairly wide assortment, so make your own determination here.As for the tools and materials, be sure to check the condition of the system connections. It is possible that they are also damaged, so they will have to be replaced.

To remove the unit, you will need to dismantle several elements. Namely:

At the bottom of the windshield there are screws, the middle of which is unscrewed;
A couple of nuts are also unscrewed, which you will find slightly above the intake manifold;
The nut to the left of the filter must be dismantled;
If there is a reservoir with a washer fluid for the rear window, then it and the air filter are removed.

A person has always tried to minimize his own labor, to solve a problem with a minimum amount of movement. The impetus for the development of technology is a very interesting factor - our laziness.It was laziness that largely led to the emergence of an original way of replacing the heater radiator with a VAZ 2110. In this case, the heater does not have to be removed. More or less experienced car owners will take an hour to complete the work, but a beginner may need a little more.The work is carried out as follows.

Drain the coolant using the remote control heating pipe.

Disconnect all connections and dismantle the expansion tank.

Disassemble the frill.

Remove the brake pedal, grabbing the VUT at the same time to gain access to the radiator.

We take out the old radiator from there, and install a new one in its place.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Return the coolant back.

With a similar procedure, it will not be superfluous to replace the cabin filter at the same time.

As you can see, the process is quite simple and original, which does not require excessive efforts or professional skills. Any car owner can handle a similar task.

The price of a native DAAZ radiator should not exceed a thousand rubles. Radiators will be sold for about the same money:

Luzar;
Kraft;
Pramo LRZ;
Bautler;
Finord and a number of other manufacturers.

All these are aluminum heat exchangers, so their prices are not too high.

A copper heatsink is more expensive, but well worth it.

A good copper heatsink will cost about double the price, but it's worth it. : firstly, the heat transfer of copper is higher, secondly, the copper radiator has high thermal inertia (it heats up for a long time, but it cools down slowly), and thirdly, in case of damage, the copper radiator can be easily restored, cleaned, replaced damaged elements and this will be much cheaper than replacing the stove radiator with a completely new one.

And also copper practically does not corrode, if we talk about the life of the car. If we have made a choice, we assemble the tool, diagnose the heating system and change the radiator to a VAZ-2110.

A stove radiator leak is an indisputable breakdown, it is noticeable immediately, if not by the traces of antifreeze under the car, then by a drop in the liquid level in the expansion tank.

It is much more difficult when there are no drips, but at the same time, the radiator does not heat even at a high temperature of antifreeze. In this case, the reason for the drop in heater temperature can be either a clogged or coked radiator, or a number of other reasons:

airlock in the cooling system;
inoperative thermostat;
breakdown in the hot air distribution system;
air leakage through leaks in the air ducts (this is a proprietary disease of only the tenth family);
low level of antifreeze in the expansion tank.

Antifreeze drips under the radiator are a clear reason for looking for a leak.

In a word, before buying a new radiator or removing an old copper one for repair, you need to check the entire cooling system in detail so as not to waste money.

By the way, about money and wind - at the service station they will ask for at least 2 thousand rubles for replacing the heater radiator. Therefore, it is cheaper to do all the work of replacing the heater radiator with your own hands.

On dozens of old releases before 2003, the replacement is a little more difficult than the modernized 2110 release after 2003, but be that as it may, for replacement we will need the following tools and consumables:

a container for draining antifreeze (with a wide neck);
a set of heads with an angled universal joint, extension and ratchet;
Screwdriver Set;
four new screw clamps;
if antifreeze replacement is planned, a new antifreeze;
stove radiator of the corresponding modification (they are not interchangeable).

Before starting the disassembly, we will merge the antifreeze into the prepared container - if we do not change the liquid completely, it will be enough to drain it only from the cylinder block by unscrewing the plug and placing the container under the engine. If we change it, we drain the antifreeze from the cooling radiator.

If a complete replacement of the antifreeze is not planned, you can partially drain it using the method shown in the photo (the expansion tank cap must be closed).

Before draining, remove the expansion tank cap and start work:

The liquid has been drained, it is possible and necessary to remove the expansion tank - we loosen the screw clamps, remove the hoses, unfasten the tank fasteners.
The hood seal will interfere, remove it.
We remove the sound and thermal insulation from the engine board. To do this, unscrew all the screws on the insulation from above with a Phillips screwdriver.From the bottom, the insulation is attached to the body with two bolts with 10 heads. It is more convenient to unscrew them with a high head with a universal joint and an extension.

Remove the bonnet seal and trim.

Remove the hose from this fitting.

Remove the brake master cylinder.

We unscrew the nuts securing the brake pedal.

Disconnect the pipes from the old radiator.

We find the screws for fastening the radiator and turn them out.

After assembly, we check the operation of the stove, the pipes must be hot. If they do not heat up, there is an airlock in the system, remove it and check again.

The technology for dismantling the VAZ-2110 heater radiator of the old design is slightly different.

So, after draining the liquid and disconnecting the fan wires, you need to remove the frill, the windshield wipers and the windshield cover. The heater is held on clamps, 4 of which need to be removed.

Removing the windscreen lining and heater housing clamps.

We unscrew the screws securing the cabin filter.

Unscrewing the screws, we remember their location (among them 4 are long).

We remove the front part of the case together with the fan.

We take out the filter housing and the back of the fan housing.

Disconnect the hoses and take out the old radiator.

We clean everything from dirt and dust, install a new radiator, assemble everything in reverse order. Successful work to all and a warm interior in winter!

The main reasons for replacing the stove radiator are: leakage of the heater radiator and a decrease (or complete absence) of heat transfer from the radiator. With the first reason, everything is clear and understandable. It is difficult not to notice the loss of antifreeze from the expansion tank and traces of its (antifreeze) appearance under the car. Plus, on top of that, the smell of antifreeze will appear in the passenger compartment. And the diagnosis suggests itself - the radiator of the stove dripped. But with the second reason, everything is not so fast and clear. Since a decrease in the temperature of the air entering through the heater into the car interior can occur for several reasons - an insufficient level of coolant in the car system, a faulty thermostat, an air lock in the cooling system, a problem with the regulator or motor for controlling the stove damper and, finally, clogged stove radiator... Therefore, before “blaming” the stove radiator for weak interior heating, you must first check and make sure that the entire cooling / heating system is working properly (check the antifreeze level in the tank, check the thermostat, make sure the unit and the heater flap control motor are in good working order).Only after that it will be possible to sign the final “verdict” for the stove radiator. But, before that, it will not be superfluous to carry out one not tricky check: we warm up the engine to operating temperature, in the engine compartment we check the upper and lower pipes of the stove by hand (they must be of the same temperature), turn the “heat-cold” knob all the way to the right, turn on heater fan. If, in the first 10-20 seconds, the air flow was hot or comfortably warm, and after that its temperature began to noticeably decrease to “room temperature”, then you can safely prepare to work on replacing the stove radiator. And this photo report with a description the fastest way to replace the radiator of a new type of stove on VAZ 2110-2112 cars will be useful to you. As a last resort, I hope so))).Spare parts. For cars Vaz 2110-2112 stove radiators are sold in two versions - old and new... Until the fall of 2003, dozens of old-style heater radiators were installed. After 2003 - a new one. These radiators are not interchangeable. Therefore, before going to the car market, you must first decide which of the two options you should buy. Catalog number of the radiator of the stove of the new sample - 21110-8101060-00... The catalog number of the old-style stove radiator is 2110-8101050.Then they answer the question - “Which manufacturer of a stove radiator is better to buy / put on a VAZ 2110?“. The correct choice of a stove radiator (heater) for Vaz-2110, Vaz-2111, Vaz-2112 - radiator produced by DAAZ! And this is not an advertisement, but friendly advice.Excellent quality and excellent heat dissipation - time-tested. All other options will definitely lose. Or they will flow quickly, or they will warm up weakly. Therefore, I recommend not to play roulette and not to try to save money, but to buy a DAAZ stove radiator.List of tools that will be needed for the successful replacement of a new type of heater (stove) radiator on Vaz-2110, Vaz-2111, Vaz-2112 vehicles produced after 2003: a container for collecting coolant, a Phillips screwdriver, a high head for 10 + a ratchet wrench, a socket wrench for 17 and 13 (the presence of a cardan, an extension and a ratchet wrench is welcome, since their presence greatly facilitates and speeds up the work).Photo report describing a quick way to replace the radiator of a new type of stove (after 2003) on cars Vaz-2110, Vaz-2111, Vaz-2112:The first step is to drain the coolant. We find the drain plug on the engine block (photo 1). We substitute a container for collecting antifreeze under the engine and unscrew the plug (key for 13). Then we unscrew the cap of the expansion tank. While the liquid is draining, we begin disassembly.If you made a decision or there is a need to replace the coolant along with the stove radiator, then you will have to drain the antifreeze from the cooling radiator (photo 2)We unscrew the clamps and disconnect the pipes from the expansion tank. We unfasten the fastening strap and remove the expansion tank (photo 3).Remove the bonnet seal (photo 4).We find and unscrew all the fastening screws of the left and right parts of the soundproofing sheathing of the engine compartment (photo 5, 6, 7, 8).Disconnect the plastic clamps from the casing (photo 9).In the lower part, the trim is attached to the car body with two nuts. We find them and, using a high head 10 and a ratchet wrench, unscrew them (photos 10 and 11).After that, you can pull out the trim from the engine compartment.Disconnect the chip from the brake cylinder reservoir cover (photo 12).Disconnect the hose together with the fitting from the vacuum booster (photo 13).Using a 17 key, unscrew the two GTZ fastening nuts to the vacuum brake booster (photos 14 and 15). In order not to air the brake system, do not unscrew the tubes from the master brake cylinder. It is enough to take the GTZ forward (in the direction of the vehicle's movement) as far as the brake pipes allow.We climb into the car. Disconnect the wires from the brake light switch (photo 16).Using a 13 socket wrench, unscrew the four fastening nuts of the brake pedal bracket to the body (photos 17 and 18).After that, you can return to the engine compartment and start pulling out the vacuum brake booster along with the bracket and pedal. This is not an easy task and it is unlikely to be able to be pulled out quickly. You have to twist and turn the vacuum booster a little before you can pull it out. But, I can assure you to pull out the vacuum amplifier with the bracket is quite possible without removing the plastic cover of the windshield (photo 19).Everything is now access to the heating radiator (stove) of the new design is open. Where the stove radiator is located on the VAZ 2110-2112 can be seen in photo 20.It remains only to unscrew the worm clamps of the two main and one steam outlet pipes (photo 21). Disconnect the connector from the damper control micromotor (photo 22).And unscrew the three fastening screws of the radiator to the stove body (photo 23).We take out the old radiator (photo 24).We clean the niche of leaves and debris. And we install a new stove radiator (photo 25).Just as fun as we pulled it out, we return the vacuum brake booster with the pedal bracket to its place (photo 26).After that, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.That's it! The replacement of the radiator for the stove of a new type on the cars Vaz-2110, Vaz-2111, Vaz-2112 has been completed.For the time being, many motorists try not to notice that “drops” have begun from the heating radiator, which soon leads to the fact that repairs become inevitable.As you know, a stove without antifreeze, which slowly leaks away, will not work.And no matter how much you postpone the removal of the radiator in this situation, this hour will certainly come. Consider when it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2110 heater radiator, and how to do it yourself without going to a service station. Image - Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2110 stove replacement

The device of the cooling system VAZ 2110

Conditionally, heating radiators for VAZ 2110 are divided into new and old models. Heaters for "tens" until the fall of 2003 were installed in the old model, and later - a new one. The differences between them are not so significant, however, repairing the radiator requires a slightly different approach, since there are minor differences.

A copper radiator can also be installed on the VAZ 2110. Although it has significantly fewer fins than other types, copper has a significantly higher heat transfer, with it the stove heats better. One drawback is the relatively high price, for example, a two-row copper radiator (2110-8101060), its cost is about 1500-2000 rubles.

Heater radiator VAZ-2110 copper 2-row

If both factors are important to you: real cost, and normal quality, then the best choice is an aluminum radiator DAAZ, the average price is 700-1000 rubles.

Heater radiator VAZ 2110 DAAZ aluminum

Before replacing a leaking or possibly clogged radiator, you need to select a new one. Here you have room, it is quite possible that you want copper, DAAZ or Priorovsky. But try to decide on your own, look at the forums for reviews of different models, and only then buy.

Pay attention to the condition of the pipes, it is quite possible that they also need replacement. You will need more clamps, try not to limit yourself to the three recommended ones, the stock, as you know, will not hurt.You will need a Phillips screwdriver, preferably a short one. And more - tweezers, without it, it is not easy to install the latches.First of all, you need to drain the antifreeze. If it turns out to be clean, it can then be poured back into a new radiator, so prepare a clean container.We unscrew the cover on the expansion tank to drop the pressure. Then we find the plug behind the ignition module, and unscrew it completely. It is poured into the drain hole of 4 liters of antifreeze.Another option is to drain through the expansion tank. Although this method is less convenient. It is necessary to remove the hose by disconnecting it from the stove, and then another - the rubber pipe.After draining the antifreeze, the repair, depending on the heater sample, is slightly different.First, consider how to repair an old-style stove heating radiator. It is removed from the side of the hood in this way:

Remove the rubber frill seal;

We find the screw that secures the frill under the main brake cylinder and unscrew it;

We unscrew the screws securing the right side of the frill (there are 4 of them);

Detach the 2 clamps on the jabot that secure the hoses and wires;

Disconnect the "plus" terminal and the "minus" wire of the fan;

The left side of the frill must be pushed forward without removing it completely. To do this, just unscrew a couple of screws;

Remove the wind pad;

If there is one, then the terminal of the sensor indicating the level of antifreeze must be disconnected. Remove the steam hose from the expansion tank.

Front glass washer hose;
Wipers;
Windshield lining;
Clamps securing the heater body;
Its front part with a fan;
Cabin filter;
Another part of the fan case;
All hoses: supply, return and steam outlet;
And, finally, we can remove the radiator housing with some effort.

If you have a copper one, and you find a small leak in it, do not rush to throw it away, repair is quite possible for it. Copper is easily soldered, but if you do not have such experience, it is better to entrust this work to an experienced craftsman. Trust me - it's worth it.

Still, in the first place in terms of quality among radiators - copper, followed by DAAZ. In any case, before changing, inspect the unit, clean it, assess whether it can be repaired.

When installing the same, cleaned, already repaired or new radiator, make sure that the pedal of the plastic fan case (it is better to replace it with an aluminum one) falls exactly into the groove, otherwise the gearbox will not be able to change the position of the damper, and you will not wait for heat.

The new type of heater has its own peculiarities in the attachment to the body. To remove, you need to unscrew:

Middle screw at the bottom of the windshield;
Two nuts above the intake manifold;
The nut near the filter on the left;
In addition, if there is a tank with washer fluid for the rear window (on VAZ 2112/2111 models), you need to remove it too. And also - an air filter.

The peculiarity of the new type of heater is that it is disconnected. In principle, this is not difficult to do. And then change the heating radiator.

It is not for nothing that they say that progress is driven by our laziness, which has been demonstrated more than once, and continues to be demonstrated by craftsmen. There is another way to repair or replace the radiator without removing the entire heater.It only takes about an hour. We follow this algorithm:

We drain the antifreeze through the remote control heating pipe;

Disconnect all pipes and remove the expansion tank;

We disassemble the frill;

Remove the brake pedal together with the VUT and get access to the radiator;

We take out the old radiator and replace it with a new one.

The most common reason for replacing a VAZ 2110 heater radiator is the leakage of a coolant (antifreeze). Of course, the cause of this situation can be not only a punctured or leaky radiator, but also a fragile fastening of the hoses.

However, since it is not possible to determine either one or the second problem without disassembling the engine shield, it is better to change the heating radiator in any case to a new one. Moreover, everyone can do it, the main thing is not to deviate from the correct sequence of actions, described in some detail in the manual for the operation and repair of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 cars. Now we will analyze this sequence. But right away I would like to draw your attention to the fact that:

there is no need to carry out any actions in the cabin, everything is done in the engine compartment;
the "dozens" heating radiators themselves may refer to old models (released before September 2003) and new ones (released after September 2003), which are attached slightly differently, which means that the process of replacing them will have some peculiarities.

Crosshead screwdriver.
Clamps, 4 pcs. or more.
Tweezers.
Capacity for draining antifreeze.
Directly a radiator.

1. Drain part of the coolant in the system into a container prepared in advance. This can be done through the expansion tank (about 1 liter will come out) or through the drain hole in the engine block (about 4 liters will come out).

2. Remove the seal of the wind pad, and then the pad itself (frill): first unscrew the screw of its fastening under the master brake cylinder, then the 4 upper locks of its right side, then disconnect the 2 clamps holding the hoses and wires, including and the negative wire of the fan coming from the body, as well as the positive terminal, well, and with the last action unscrew the 2 screws securing the left side of the frill, but so that the latter only moves, but does not come off.

3. Remove the windscreen trim by unscrewing 2 nuts and 5 screws.

4. Disconnect the antifreeze level sensor terminal in the system and remove the outlet hose from the expansion tank.

5. Disconnect the windshield washer hose. Unscrew the 4 screws in front of you and dismantle the windscreen wipers, windshield cover, clips (partially) of the heater case, fan.

6. Remove the screws securing the pollen filter and the front of the fan (be sure to note the location of the four longest). Remove the latter together with the fan.

9. Remove the cabin filter housing, fan (rear), coolant supply, return and return hoses.

10. Remove the leaking heating radiator with a slight force. Install a new one in its place, and then return to the right places all the removed parts, only in the reverse order. At the same time, pay special attention to the correct installation of the plastic housing of the stove fan - the pedal must necessarily fall into the desired groove, and also that after assembly you should not have "extra" bolts, because if you do not ensure the tight fit of all the heating units system, your stove will simply not work (heat).

1. Remove 1 screw in the middle of the lower end of the windshield, 2 nuts above the intake manifold and 1 nut in the left corner, near the air filter.

2. Remove the rear window washer reservoir (if any) and the air filter by first unscrewing 4 self-tapping screws holding the plastic cover that presses it against the heater.

3. Look through the air supply hose (it lies with the letter "G"), find a large self-tapping screw and 2 smaller screws connecting 2 parts (there are just so many of them for heaters of the new model) of the heating radiator, and unscrew them.

4. Move the right part of the heater to the right as much as possible, and on the left do the following: while holding its left part in your left hand, and the right part in your right, turn the latter slightly away from you and up. Print the entire right side first, and then the rest.