In detail: repair of a vaz 2115 8 valves do-it-yourself injector from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
A working braking system is a guarantee of your safety! I spoke about this for a long time, in one of my previous articles. Today I am no less sure of this, and I want to talk about brake hoses, or rather, how to replace them with
Hello. Today at VAZ Repair there is a step-by-step photo report on the installation of the so-called "European handles" on the VAZ 2115. This type of tuning has not only a visual, but also an aesthetic component, since in addition to a more modern appearance, we teach more comfortable door handles,
Hello everyone. Today we'll talk about the cabin filter, or rather, how they forgot to install it on the entire Samara family, starting with the VAZ 2108 and ending with the “fifteenth”. You will learn how to install a cabin filter adapter on a VAZ 2115 with your own hands and get a full
A fairly common "sore" in many models of the VAZ family is a faulty or destroyed fastener for the front suspension brace, or in the common people - a "crab". The crab supports the front suspension brace located under the front bumper.
How to replace the camshaft sensor (DPRV) on a VAZ 2115? Signs of malfunction and diagnostics of the VAZ 2115 phase sensor
Hello everyone! Welcome to VAZ Repair - a site about do-it-yourself VAZ car repair. Today in the heading "Repair VAZ 2115" we will talk about how to check the camshaft sensor and, if necessary, replace it at home.
Hello everyone. Today we'll talk about how to replace a taillight on a tag in case of damage or unpresentable appearance. All the work, as always, will be done independently, that is, at home.
Video (click to play).
Hello everyone. Today we'll talk about the fuel rail, for your attention step-by-step instructions on how to remove the VAZ 2115 fuel rail with your own hands. A few words about what a fuel rail is. This device is a bar with a pressure regulator, into which
Injectors are an important element in the entire engine system. They are responsible for fuel injection, which means that the operation of the entire engine depends on their lifespan.
Injectors can become unusable due to many factors. By themselves, the VAZ 2114 nozzles serve about 100-120 thousand kilometers.
However, this is when gasoline meets European standards, and in Russia, the standards are often not observed, which is why the nozzles fail after 60-80 thousand kilometers, and even earlier.
Injector failure can adversely affect many vehicle systems. However, the life of the injectors can be increased if they are cleaned in a timely manner.
Why do you need to clean the injectors:
to extend the life of the injectors;
dirty injectors increase fuel consumption and reduce vehicle performance.
In other words, cleaning the injectors will help the car drive "smoother".
You can understand that the nozzle requires cleaning by the following signs:
unstable engine operation;
a sharp increase in fuel consumption;
misfire at idle;
a decrease in the vehicle acceleration speed when the pedal is fully depressed to the floor.
Remember that with these symptoms the nozzle may already be inoperative, therefore it is necessary to check its functionality before cleaning. It is checked this way - when the engine is running, but cold, you just need to touch the injectors - they should pulsate.
There is also another way - they add idle speed to the car, after which the cap nuts on the injectors are loosened - this should result in a slowdown in speed, if this does not happen, then the injector needs to be cleaned.
VIDEO However, it is much wiser to clean the nozzles ahead of time before problems arise. Timely prevention is much more beneficial than cleaning when problems arise. Therefore, let's talk about the process of replacing injectors.
Of course, in a car service, you can replace the nozzles. The price for this service starts from 1,500 rubles. However, to save time and money, it makes sense to change the nozzles yourself.
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Here is a simple injector removal algorithm that all car owners can follow.
1.Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery
2.Take two keys for 17 and release the fuel pressure by unscrewing the unions of the fuel pipes.
3. Separate the electrical connector from the fuel rail.
4. Take a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw on the bracket that holds the fuel pipes and remove it.
5.Unscrew the two screws on the fuel rail mounting with a 5 hexagon socket
6. Move the ramp in the direction of the axis of the injectors, remove all 4 injectors from the engine and remove the ramp towards the left side of the vase.
7. Press on the spring clip (1) located on the injectors, move it aside and disconnect the electrical connector (2)
8. Using a screwdriver, move the injector retainer along the ramp and remove it (on new ramps, the bracket is simply removed).
9.Remove the nozzle from the hole on the ramp, shaking it slightly from side to side.
10.Remove the O-rings that are on the nozzle body and the spray gun using a thin screwdriver
That's it, the nozzles are now ready to be cleaned.
For cleaning, you will need electrical tape (wire) to secure the joints, a carburetor cleaner in a can, a syringe and a thin tube. The cleaning algorithm is as follows.
1.Insert the tube into the cap (nozzle) of the can
It is necessary to inject until the outgoing jet is smooth and clean. This will then mean that the nozzle is clean.
Another way, if you have a nearby battery, you can try to apply voltage to the injector with ordinary wires (polarity does not matter) simulating their operation and at the same time spraying liquid to clean the carburetor.
After that, you need to put on new O-rings and you can start assembling, having previously checked the resistance, which should be within 11-15 ohms. Reassemble the injectors in the reverse order of disassembly.
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You now have a clean nozzle. The term of its operation, which means that the period of normal operation of the engine is increased.
Injectors are an indispensable attribute of any vehicle fuel system based on injection engines. The injectors act as gasoline atomizers and determine the required amount of fuel to be supplied to the combustion chamber. However, during operation, there is a gradual depletion of injectors. In order to optimize the performance of the entire system and increase the engine power, it is recommended to periodically clean and flush the nozzles.
Almost all types of nozzles that the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with at the factory can be considered interchangeable. Depending on the year of manufacture, different markings from Bosch and Siemens were installed on the car.
Model 0280 158 022. The product can only be combined with a 1.6-liter 16-valve engine. The nozzle is black and is designed to operate at an optimum pressure of 3.8 atmospheres.
Model 0280 158 017. A nozzle with this marking is installed on 8-valve engines with a volume of 1.6 liters. The body is also black.
Modification 0280 158 996 is considered morally obsolete, since nozzles with such markings were installed on cars until 2006. The model was intended for 8-valve power units.
VAZ20734 has an orange housing.The model can be installed on a VAZ 2114/2115 of any year of manufacture, however, the modification works in tandem with an 8-valve engine.
The VAZ20735 model is intended for a 16-valve engine. According to its characteristics, it practically does not differ from the previous model. The nozzle is marked in blue.
The difficulty in identifying malfunctions in the operation of the injectors is that the fuel system is quite branched and it is necessary to diagnose the operability of all its parts. For example, a malfunction such as a decrease in engine power can have two reasons - failure of injectors or depletion of a pump resource.
Clogged injectors can be expressed in sharp jerks of the engine while driving or instability at idle speed. In addition, an increase in fuel consumption can be considered a sign of injector failure.
You can check the performance of each nozzle even without removing them. It is enough just to start the engine and in turn remove the wires from the connector of each injector. If immediately after removal the engine starts to twitch or stalls, then the injector is in order. In the event that the stability of the engine does not change when the wire is removed, then the injector needs to be thoroughly cleaned or even replaced.
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The procedure for dismantling and installing injectors is not particularly difficult, but it takes a lot of time. It is necessary to prepare a set of tools in advance:
screwdriver with a flat thin blade;
Before removing the injectors for replacement, you must relieve the pressure in the vehicle's fuel system. This is a necessary measure that will protect the work and exclude the possibility of injury.
To relieve fuel pressure, you must turn off the fuel pump. It is located in VAZ 2114/2115 cars in the fuel tank. The easiest way to get to the pump is through a hatch located under the rear seat cushion. For this:
Find a small trapdoor under the rug.
Unscrew the screws securing the sunroof.
Remove the cover and dismantle the terminal block from the fuel pump housing.
Then you need to start the engine. The motor will run on the amount of fuel that remains in the system, since the pump will not build up pressure after removing the block. It is necessary to wait until the engine completely depletes the remaining gasoline and stalls.
The procedure for removing the injectors is as follows:
Open the hood of the car and remove the wire from the minus terminal on the battery.
For ease of dismantling, it is recommended to remove the air filter box. It will prevent free access to the engine.
Then the plastic retainer on the engine is snapped off with a finger and the connector is disconnected from the throttle valve.
In the same way, the connector is removed from the idle speed regulator.
Next, you need to disconnect the connector block from the wiring harness of the injectors themselves.
The injectors can only be removed together with the fuel rail. Therefore, you need to unscrew the bolts securing the ramp to the body.
Then it will be possible to move the ramp to the side so that each of the nozzles slightly comes out of the seat. The wires are removed from the injectors, otherwise the ramp cannot be pulled out.
The ramp is pulled out and put in a clean place. Now you can easily remove all the nozzles - they are squeezed out by means of a plastic retainer.
Accordingly, new products are inserted in place of the old ones. And then the installation work is carried out in the reverse order.
Repair of nozzles involves a number of works at once:
replacement of rubber seals.
After the products have been removed from the fuel rail, you need to take a good look at each of the four nozzles. In the event that traces of leakage are noticeable on the case, repairs will be inappropriate. You will have to immediately change the nozzle to a new one. Differences in flushing and cleaning procedures are not significant between 8-valve and 16-valve engines.Therefore, you can be guided by the same scheme.
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If the case is clean and there is no deformation or cracks on it, then it is allowed to carry out repair work. ... To do this, you will need to remove the seal from the body and the spray gun. It is recommended to leave these parts in acetone or solvent for 1.5-2 hours. While the parts are being rinsed, you can vacuum the fuel rail. Next, you need to carefully clean the place where the nozzles fit into the ramp with a toothpick or needle.
After that, you can start purging the nozzle from the inside. You will need a roll of electrical tape, a spray can for cleaning carburetors and a syringe. An aerosol cleaning liquid is fed into the nozzle cavity through a thin syringe. It is better to wrap the grip of the syringe and the tube of the cartridge for sealing with electrical tape. It is recommended to flush the inside of the nozzle three times. After that, the product should dry out. As soon as the housing itself is dry, as well as the seal and the spray after flushing, you can assemble the nozzle and install it on the ramp.
Before installation, each injector is tested for resistance ... The tester reading should be in the 11-15 ohm range.
There is also a simple way to clean the injectors without dismantling the fuel rail. However, it is appropriate only in cases where the injectors have not yet exhausted their entire resource (120-150 thousand kilometers). The use of cleaning additives in gasoline is allowed. In this case, all elements of the fuel system will be cleaned, but its closed nature does not allow removing dirt and sediments from low-quality gasoline.
Usually, when flushing or repairing injectors, motorists immediately change all rubber elements. This is due to high wear rates. The cost of rings and seals is very low, but after replacement, you can immediately observe the stability of the motor.
Rings and seals are removed with one hand movement. However, installing new ones will require care, since it is easy to damage the rubber. The plastic element is first lubricated with gasoline, and then pulled over the place of the old seal.
Almost every driver can independently clean or replace injectors on VAZ 2114/2115 cars. Difficulties can arise only in the process of unscrewing the fuel rail or reconnecting the wires to the contacts of the injectors. However, with careful conduct of each stage of work, even a beginner can self-service this element of the fuel system.
Car services require a lot of money, even for the elimination of minor faults, not to mention major repairs. For this reason, the owners choose to repair the VAZ 2115 with their own hands.
Photo of the car Lada Samara, VAZ-2115.
VAZ 2115 is a Russian front-wheel drive sedan car. The first car left the assembly line of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant in 1997. The release of the model continued until 2012. The second name of the model is Lada Samara.
VAZ 2115 was created on the platform of the Vaz 2108, VAZ 2109 and 21099 models
The models share a common suspension, transmission and braking system. VAZ-2115 has an improved appearance and a comfortable interior.
The cars were equipped with one of two engine options:
1.5-liter 72-horsepower power unit;
1.6-liter 81-horsepower power unit.
Both engines are injector and 8-valve.
Valve adjustments are required on a 1.5 liter engine. On cars with high mileage, the fuel injection system fails. The resource of the cooling system parts is limited to 15,000 km.
If a dull metallic sound in the power unit increases when the gas pedal is pressed, the problems are related to the main bearings of the crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. In this case, one cannot do without a service station.
The model has a comfortable interior.The roominess for this class is satisfactory, but the three people in the back will be uncomfortable. On the VAZ-2115, the rear edge of the luggage compartment is underestimated - it is convenient to load / unload.
Lada Samara luxury equipment is equipped with heated driver and passenger seats.
After buying a car, the first thing the owners do is improve the sound insulation. To perform the operation on your own, be sure to read the repair manual.
The car does not require large maintenance costs. Parts and accessories can be found at any car store at an affordable price.
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Many motorists, especially beginners who have just purchased a VAZ-2114, thought about how the 8-valve injection engine installed on this car works. This article will discuss the design of the motor, the main characteristics, as well as dismantling and repair features. This information will be very useful for beginners and those who do not know how the main power unit works.
Video about the VAZ-2114 engine
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Video review of the operation of the VAZ-2114 engine, features and characteristics.
Before proceeding with the consideration of the issue of the engine design and the description of the characteristics, it is necessary to consider the diagram of the arrangement of units and parts that are located directly in the main power unit and outside.
Scheme and device of the engine "Samara-2"
1 - generator drive pulley; 2 - oil pump; 3 - timing belt; 4 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump; 5 - front cover of the gas distribution mechanism drive; 6 - tension roller; 7 - toothed pulley of the camshaft; 8 - rear cover of the camshaft drive; 9 - camshaft oil seal; 10 - cylinder head cover; 11 - a camshaft; 12 - front cover of the camshaft bearings; 13 - pusher; 14 - valve guide sleeve; 15 - mesh of the oil separator of the crankcase ventilation system; 16 - outlet valve; 17 - inlet valve; 18 - rear cover of the camshaft bearings; 19 - fuel pump; 20 - housing of auxiliary units; 21 - ignition distributor sensor; 22 - outlet branch pipe of the cooling jacket; 23 - cylinder head; 24 - spark plug; 25 - crankcase ventilation hose; 26 - flywheel; 27 - holder of the rear crankshaft oil seal; 28 - rear crankshaft oil seal; 29 - cylinder block; 30 - oil pan; 31 - oil level indicator (oil dipstick); 32 - crankshaft; 33 - piston; 34 - connecting rod cover; 35 - connecting rod; 36 - crankshaft main bearing cover; 37 - front crankshaft oil seal; 38 - crankshaft toothed pulley.
Also, it is worth looking at the VAZ-2114 engine in the context:
Cross section of the Samara engine
1 - oil pan drain plug; 2 - oil pan; 3 - oil filter; 4 - coolant pump; 5 - exhaust manifold; 6 - intake manifold; 7 - carburetor; 8 - fuel pump; 9 - cylinder head cover; 10 - camshaft bearing cover; 11 - a camshaft; 12 - crankcase ventilation hose; 13 - valve adjusting washer; 14 - pusher; 15 - valve crackers; 16 - valve springs; 17 - valve stem seal; 18 - valve guide sleeve; 19 - valve; 20 - cylinder head; 21 - spark plug; 22 - piston; 23 - compression piston rings; 24 - oil scraper ring; 25 - piston pin; 26 - cylinder block; 27 - connecting rod; 28 - crankshaft; 29 - connecting rod cover; 30 - oil level indicator; 31 - oil pump receiver
Many motorists remember how at the end of the 90s of the 20th century and at the beginning of the 2000s, the VAZ 2108-09, which was also called "Samara", were popular on the roads of the CIS. These cars became legendary during that era. Due to the high popularity, the AvtoVAZ plant decided to resume production of these models with some modifications.
VAZ-2114 engine under the hood
First, the VAZ-2114 received a modified engine ... In fact, this is the injection version of the Samara. Although she received some features from modern engines. If we consider in more detail, the Samara-2 engine (this is the type installed on the VAZ-2114) is a mixture of two engine options into one: from a VAZ 2108 and a VAZ 2110.
Many motorists liked the Samara-2 power unit and they fell in love with it. The main indicator was - ease of repair and inexpensive spare parts. Thus, the 8-valve engine has become the benchmark for the "price-quality" indicator.
When the basic information has been reviewed, you can go directly to the consideration of the characteristics of the motor.
Table of the main characteristics of the Samara-2 engine with 8 valves:
Consider this point of the article as reference information, because if we talk about engine repair, then each separate unit and unit is repaired separately. When operating the power unit, it may need to be dismantled. In this case, you can consider replacing the power unit from a foreign car.
Therefore, consider the main operations aimed at removing the engine from the car:
At the preliminary stage of disassembly, it is necessary to drain the oil from the engine, as well as the coolant from the system.
Another point that should not be overlooked is the power outage of the car. This is necessary in order not to close the system.
Disconnect the fuel system.
We dismantle the units that supply air to the engine.
Disconnect the throttle, as well as all remaining air pipes and pipes of the cooling system.
We dismantle the injection system and the receiver.
We remove the ignition system completely.
We disassemble the gas distribution mechanism.
We dismantle the thermostat and pump.
Remove the ignition module.
Now, you can dismantle the manifold.
Remove the pan, oil filter and pump.
Disconnect the gearbox and remove the clutch. The gearbox can also be dismantled for convenience.
Remove the cylinder head.
We dismantle the power unit.
We carry out the final disassembly.
Overhaul of the power unit will require more in-depth knowledge of the design and principle of engine operation, but if desired, every motorist is able to figure it out and carry out these operations with his own hands.
It should be noted that when diagnosing faults, it is worth carefully and carefully examining every detail for defects.
The device of the VAZ-2114 8-valve injection engine is quite similar to the first generations of this engine - "Samara". Of course, the designers made many changes to the features of the power unit, but in many ways they remained similar. Repair and maintenance of this engine must be carried out regularly, which will extend not only its resource, but also reduce the wear of the parts that are located inside.
If the engine of your car regularly experiences interruptions, and the sound emanating from the exhaust pipe sounds more like the growl of a tractor, this indicates that your engine is troit. This problem needs to be solved, and quickly.
If you say that you have a troit engine, many will answer - the cylinder does not work. But this argument is not entirely correct, as the cylinder stops working properly. However, there may be several reasons for this:
The compression in the cylinders is too low;
The spark plug is defective or partially does not perform its function;
Valves do not fit well due to prolonged lack of adjustment;
The nozzles are dirty or overflow, therefore they need to be replaced;
The oxygen sensor has ceased to function;
High-voltage candle wire is damaged;
The ignition coil is defective;
DPKV (crankshaft position sensor) does not work;
Broken ECU (electronic control unit);
The timing belt has fallen off or simply slipped off a few links;
The air filter is broken or dirty.
The primary signs of a problem that can inform a cylinder breakdown are:
Vibration increases, since the rhythm of the valves and other rotating parts of the gearbox and power unit is disrupted.
Fuel consumption increases markedly because the injection system has stopped working properly.
An unpleasant characteristic odor is heard from the exhaust pipe, which is explained by the high concentration of harmful impurities and unburned fuel.
The power of the power unit drops noticeably, which negatively affects the dynamics and maneuverability of the car.
If you notice that the engine is troit, but did not take any measures, this threatens you soon with a complete failure of the engine, which may be impossible to repair. When an injection 8-valve engine is tripled on a VAZ 2114, fuel constantly flows into the non-working cylinder. It does not burn, but mixes with oil, then passes into the crankcase. If the process continues for a long time, the oil loses its viscosity, ceases to play the role of a lubricant, the parts work at extreme loads, and the metal turns into shavings. There is nothing good in this, frankly.
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There are a number of steps to take when you discover that your engine is troit. All of them will allow you to answer certain questions. Therefore, get ready to devote a lot of time to your car.
The first thing to do is to identify the failed cylinder. He's not alone there. For this you need:
Open the hood, while starting the engine;
Listen and remember the sound that your motor is now making;
Take turns to remove the wires from the candles. If you remove the high voltage wire, the sound should change. If the sound hasn't changed when removing the next high-voltage, congratulations, you have found the faulty cylinder.
Now we dismantle the problem candle and check it for functionality. To do this, you need a special key designed specifically for removing spark plugs:
Pay attention to the electrode. If it is clean, intact, but there is a lot of burning on the head, most likely there is a large amount of dust in the combustion chamber. This indicates a malfunction of the air filter in the air supply system;
If a burn is present on the head and the electrode, which is noticeably burned out, the mixture comes in a lean mixture, combustion occurs with premature ignition;
If the head is burnt, but the electrode is intact, the mixture was rich, and the ignition was supplied with a delay;
Check for a spark. If it is, then the problem must be looked for further. When there is no spark, it is recommended to replace it with a new one and check the engine's performance with a new spark plug.
If your car has an impressive enough mileage, it is recommended to perform the following operations to identify the reasons for "triple formation":
Replace spark plugs;
Dismantle the old vysokovolniki and replace them with new, high quality ones. Sometimes banal microcracks on them lead to breakdowns and failure of the entire power unit;
Measure the compression in a cylinder that is not working. If violations are detected, you may determine that the valves are burnt out or there is a problem in the rings;
Adjust the valves. In general, a similar procedure is carried out at intervals of 15-20 thousand kilometers for the purpose of prevention;
Check if the ignition coil works. A common problem for the VAZ 2114. Trying to repair it is not worth it, it is better to immediately change it to a new one. It won't cost you a lot of money;
Replace the old air filter with a new, similar unit;
Check if the timing belt is correctly installed and functioning.
Even if these measures did not give any result, we advise you to try out several more effective methods of restoring the engine's performance:
Check the operation of the electronic control unit. If problems are found, immediately replace the old electronic control unit with a new one;
Check the functionality of the fuel delivery system. In some cases, you have to get all the way to the nozzles;
Analyze the operation of the oxygen sensor. It is subject to repair, but it would be better to immediately replace the device;
Verify that the crankshaft position sensor is operational. This is determined using an electronic control unit. It will give an error that indicates a malfunction. In case of problems with the sensor, there is no choice but to change it to a new one.
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It is also a fairly common situation, the reasons for which there are a total of three.
There are problems with the fuel supply. It is necessary to flush the fuel system and clean the injectors with ultrasound.
There is a malfunction in the ignition system. In such a situation, it is recommended to change the spark plugs, check the operation of the ignition coil, and install a new set of high-voltage wires.
Valves not properly adjusted. You will need to adjust the valves. If the situation requires more drastic measures, then the valves will have to be changed.
If you intervene in the operation of the unit at the first signs of triple formation, you will be able to avoid complex and costly repairs. But when the situation starts to take its course and the inspection of the unit is postponed from day to day until later, get ready to soon spend a lot of money or even look for a new engine to replace the old one.
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Before disassembling the engine, it is advisable to wash it and drain the oil from the crankcase.
Removal of units and parts of the air supply system
1 - air filter
2 - mass air flow sensor
3 - throttle pipe
4 - a sealing gasket
5 - receiver
6 - outlet branch pipe of the engine cooling system
7 - hose clamps
8 - supply pipe of the coolant pump
9 - hoses for heating the throttle pipe
10 - a hose of an inlet pipe
Remove the antifreeze supply and outlet hoses 9, as well as the crankcase breather from the throttle pipe. Remove the throttle tube by unscrewing the mounting nuts.
Disconnect the gasoline supply and drain pipes. Remove the vacuum hose by disconnecting it from the pipes and from the gasoline pressure sensor.
Removing the receiver and inlet pipe
1 - support bracket
2 - inlet pipe
3 - receiver laying
4 - receiver
5 - bracket for the tip of the accelerator drive cable
6 - bracket
7 - screen of the exhaust manifold
8 - support bracket
Remove the receiver 4 and the fuel line bracket by unscrewing the bracket nut 6 and nuts 2.
Removing the fuel rail with injectors
1 - a ramp of injectors
2 - pressure regulator
3 - vacuum hose
4 - inlet pipe
5 - nozzle
6 - injector latch
Remove the ramp 1 of the injectors with the regulator 2 by unscrewing the 2 fastening bolts.
Having unscrewed the nuts and bolts, remove the brackets 1 and 8, then the pipe with the bracket 6 and the screen 7.
On the left side, remove the wires, ignition module and knock sensor. Remove the spark plugs, the antifreeze temperature sensor and the VAZ 2114 oil pressure sensor. Unscrew the temperature sensor from the outlet hose of the cooling jacket.
Removing the generator
1 - alternator drive pulley
2 - bracket for the right engine mount
3 - mounting bar
4 - tension bar
5 - generator
6 - generator mounting bracket
7 - alternator drive belt
Remove strip 4 and belt 7 of the generator. Remove the generator. Block the flywheel of the VAZ 2113, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator pulley and remove the pulley.
Removing the camshaft drive
1 - front protective cover
2 - rubber seal
3 - toothed belt
4 - a camshaft pulley
5 - toothed pulley of the crankshaft
6 - distance washer
7 - tension roller
Remove the belt cover 1. Loosen the tensioner nut. Loosen and remove the toothed belt 3. Remove the tension roller 7 with washer 6.
Keeping the camshaft pulley 4 from turning, loosen the pulley bolt, remove the pulley. Remove the toothed pulley 5 from the shaft.
Removing the coolant pump
1 - rear protective cover of a toothed belt
2 - coolant pump
3 - gasket
Loosen the bolts of the antifreeze pump 2. Unscrew the bolt and nut securing the rear cover 1 and remove it. Then pull out the pump with gasket 3.
Remove the exhaust manifold, then the thermostat, antifreeze circulation pipe.
Removing the oil filter with a tool
Unscrew the oil filter. Disconnect and pull out the breather. Remove the oil level dipstick.
Remove the cylinder head cover. The cylinder head is removed with the camshaft.
Removing the oil pump
1 - oil pump
2 - oil pump gasket
3 - oil pump receiver
4 - crankcase gasket
5 - crankcase
6 - crankshaft position sensor
Then remove the oil sump 5 and the oil pump 1.
To remove the piston group, it is necessary to unscrew the connecting rod bolt nuts and remove the cover.
Locking the flywheel with a latch
Block the flywheel, loosen the mounting bolts, remove the flywheel from the crankshaft of Lada Samara 2.
Remove the main bearing caps together with the lower shells. Pull out the crankshaft and then the upper bushings and thrust washers.
Before proceeding to the procedure for removing injectors, I recommend that you first familiarize yourself with what INJECTORS are and what functions they perform in the power supply system of an engine with multipoint injection. You can read about this in detail on the website in the article Fuel injectors.
First, remove the fuel rail with all the injectors. (You can read about this in more detail on the website in the article "How to remove the fuel rail of the injectors?").
Next, you need to disconnect the injector wiring block, while holding the spring clip.
Using a screwdriver, slide the injector retainer along the ramp.
We take out the nozzles from the ramp, while scrolling it a little.
Then remove the O-rings from the injector by prying them off with a flat-blade screwdriver.
They are removed from the body of the nozzle itself, as well as from the spray. They can be thrown away, as they will most likely already be replaced with new ones.
Attention! Care must be taken when removing or installing injectors!
Neither the spray guns nor the connector plugs can be damaged.
The injectors must not be disassembled.
Do not allow engine oil nozzle to get inside.
Do not immerse the nozzles in any kind of detergent, as the nozzles contain electrical components.
And at the end, I bring to your attention the following signs of a malfunction of the injectors, which in the future will lead to the replacement of the injectors themselves:
the engine starts to stall at idle;
fuel consumption in the car increases noticeably;
the engine cannot start to run at full power;
engine throttle response has become insufficient;
engine performance has become unstable;
the amount of CH in the exhaust gases has increased;
the engine starts to work poorly;
at idle speed, the crankshaft speed is reduced;
failures in the operation of the engine itself while the car is moving.
In order to install new nozzles on the ramp, you need to do everything the same, but only in the reverse order. You can learn more about this on the website in the article How to install injectors? /.
Video (click to play).
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