Do-it-yourself webasto repair on Discovery 3

In detail: do-it-yourself webasto repair on Discovery 3 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Heater WEBASTO blocks its work in case of several startup errors in a row. There is a way to remove the blocking state by manipulating the heater power supply and the control element. Below is the procedure for unlocking the heater Webasto Thermo Top V LAND ROVER vehicles. A sign of blockage is a complete lack of reaction to the heater turning on (provided that the starting conditions are met), or quiet clicks inside the heater after the start command has been given.

To unlock, all the same conditions must be met that are necessary to start the heater in the mode PRE-STARTING HEATERdescribed below. When using the 1533 minitimer, it is advisable to carry out the unlocking procedure together, since it will be difficult to maintain the specified intervals.

Discovery 3, Range Rover Sport cars (up to MY 2010):

  • engine temperature below +60 ° C;
  • the car is “sleeping”, that is, the ignition key is removed and more than 11 minutes have passed since the last action with the car;
  • The battery is not discharged;
  • there are no problems with the engine coolant level (the level is normal and the level sensor is working properly);
  • fuse # 28 in the engine compartment fuse block is used to turn off the power to the heater;
  • the mini-timer 1533 is used to turn on the heater.

Freelander 2 cars before MY 2013:

  • engine temperature below +15 ° C;
  • The battery is not discharged;
  • there are no problems with the engine coolant level (the level is normal and the level sensor is in good working order);
  • fuse # 32 in the engine compartment fuse block is used to disconnect the heater power;
  • to turn on the heater, use the Telestart remote control or the 1533 minitimer.
Video (click to play).

Discovery 4, Range Rover Sport 2010-2012 MG, Freelander 2 from 2013 MG, Evoque:

  • the outside air temperature is below +15 degrees C;
  • engine temperature below +50 ° C;
  • The battery is not discharged;
  • there are no problems with the engine coolant level (the level is normal and the level sensor is working properly);
  • fuse # 32 (Freelander 2 and Evoque) or # 28 (Discovery 4 and RRS) in the engine compartment fuse block is used to disconnect the heater power;
  • the Telestart control panel is used to turn on the heater.

Procedure for unlocking the Webasto heater

  1. Remove the fuse
  2. Wait 3 seconds
  3. Stick in the fuse
  4. Wait 3 seconds
  5. start the heater (using the button on the mini-timer or on the Telestart remote control)
  6. Wait 3 seconds
  7. Remove the fuse again
  8. Wait 3 seconds
  9. Stick in the fuse

Switch off the heater and switch it on again using the mini-timer or the Telestart remote control. The heater should start. If the heater shows no signs of life again, or clicks very quietly, repeat the procedure.

TT-V is a new line of "Webasto" heaters.
They differ from the classic "C" thermo-topopes mainly in the design of the burner.
Whereas an evaporating ceramic "sponge" was used in older thermo-tops, a nozzle in the form of a cone is used in the V-thermo-top. Hence the letter V - Venturi. Such heaters provide higher efficiency - up to 93%, 20% lighter than old ones, and 1/3 less. They also provide ignition in less than 60 seconds. The burner achieves an air flow rate of up to 50 m / s.
Like the old C thermo-tops, the new thermo-top is reliable and maintenance-free. But from low-quality diesel fuel, it can fail.

The patient is a diesel Land Rover Discovery 3, 2005, with a standard "auxiliary heater" TT-V. The heater does not turn on, the engine does not warm up, and it is cold in the passenger compartment.
There was no dealer diagnostics at hand, so we use backup paths. In addition to CAN-bus diagnostics, the V thermo-top, like other thermo-topics, is equipped with a data bus - W-bus. This bus is actually a regular standard K-bus. And you can work with it through a regular K-line adapter. The software for work is on the Webasto Data Top disk.
In the description of the program there is a description of the bus contact number for different boiler versions. In this case, this is contact number 2. It can be either empty or with a wire if the machine is equipped with a minitimer or telestart.

We connect the adapter, we connect the mass to the body and to-line to the 2nd contact of the common connector of the heater using a needle.
Launch the program, select W-bus diagnostics.

We look at the errors and the status of the heater. Several errors, including "flame out" and "heater did not start". 3 errors in a row lead to boiler shutdown. The boiler is blocked and does not even start. We erase the errors, the boiler will be unlocked. We select "pumping the fuel line", the duration is 1 minute. Then we start up the boiler using the diagnostic program. The ignition turns on, the boiler starts, but after a short warm-up, it turns off, again with the error "the heater did not start". This means that the flame sensor has not "sensed" the boiler heating up to the required temperature within the allotted time.

There are no other errors. There is nothing to do - we disassemble the heater.
We wait until it cools down, release the pressure in the cooling system, disconnect the wires, hoses, unscrew the fasteners and remove the boiler.
We remove the coolant pipes, decorative covers, disconnect the internal connectors and "half" the boiler.
We take out the burner. In my case, she looked clean and good. There were doubts about the possibility of repair.
We disassemble the burner. Carefully remove the nozzle cover stoppers, take out the nozzle and the spark plug. The candle is absolutely clean and free of deposits. Spill the nozzle with a "break cleaner" and make sure that the fuel flows out of it in an even stream and evenly.
Remove the ceramic nozzle very carefully. half of the gasket will remain on it. We handle the nozzle very carefully so as not to damage the fragile gasket.
Turn the nozzle over and see that the nozzle is half overgrown with coke. Now everything is clear. Where does the Venturi effect come from in such a nozzle.
We clean the coke, returning the nozzle to its original shape, rinse everything with a "break cleaner", blow it with compressed air. We carefully put everything into place. With straight arms and neatness, no spacers are needed.

We put the boiler, connect the hoses and wires.
We start the motor, turn on the circulation pump through the diagnostic program for 1 min. We gas from time to time to fill the boiler heat exchanger with antifreeze.
We turn off the engine, start the fuel pumping mode for 20 seconds. This will fill the pipe in the heater with fuel.
We turn on the air pump for 1 minute. This will allow excess fuel to be blown out of the heater.

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We start the heating mode. The start is accompanied by a lot of smoke - this burns out excess fuel and fat residues.
After 3 minutes, it becomes clear that the heater has reached full power, the combustion is even, without "coughing", popping, and interruptions.

We wait for the warm-up, look at the operating parameters, make sure that everything is normal and there are no errors, and turn off the heater.
Disconnect the adapter.

Everything. $ 1000 for a boiler (with no hands at all) or 200 euros for a burner (with partial absence) - you can spend on something else.

Now the engine warms up quickly, the interior is warm. Beauty.

Group: Club Member (100)
Posts: 228
Registration: 18.8.2012
From: Moscow
User #: 44 319

Machine brand:
LR3 / DISCOVERY 3

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