DIY bike repair forward

One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.

In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you to repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.

One of the most important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

The hub is a wheel element, fixed to the bike frame, namely the drop points. This is the central part of the wheel that allows it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of elements such as:

One of the reasons for dividing the rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear bushings are divided into:

1. Without brake.
2. With built-in brakes.

It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a braking mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about the version of the hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

1. Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
2. Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different - from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is best to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than servicing the front hub.

It is necessary to carry out maintenance in such cases:

1. If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or wobbling.
2. Backlash.
3. If the bearings crunch.
4. Poor rolling dynamics.

If you ignore the above signs of "illness" of your bike and use it for a long time if they are present, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play and that the bearings are not too tight.

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.

First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the circlip and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in the details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

After lubrication, the bushing must be reassembled. To properly assemble the rear hub, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. We insert the axis so as not to confuse which side is the right side of the axis, which is fixed tightly. The axis is adjusted with the left cone.
2. Next, put the left cone on the axle until it stops.
3. We put on the washers.
4. We screw on the lock nut.
5. We adjust the bearings.

1. Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
2. Remove the retaining ring.
3. Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

1. Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace of unnecessary tools, things that are not useful to you.
2. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
3. Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
4. Tighten the locknut into place.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

1. After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
2. Remove the hub axle. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
3. We check the details for a malfunction.
4. We replace the broken part.
5. We put all the parts in place, tighten the flare nuts and the locknut.

Bicycle wheel breakage occurs for various reasons. There can be a large number of them.

The main ones are:

1. Insufficient or no bushing maintenance.
2. Loose bushing (backlash).
3. Poor bushing parts.
4. Wear.
5. Padding the cone.

Thus, to ensure the long life of your bike, you should devote a certain amount of time to it. The basis of a bike's long-term service is maintenance. You can do this yourself, with your own hands. The main thing in this is to observe safety precautions and carefully approach the matter, since every detail is important in the sleeve mechanism.

To service the bushing, it is necessary to remove all parts, lubricate, after removing all the old grease. Then carefully re-install all parts in the reverse order. In this case, you should carefully consider the tightening of the locknuts and flare nut so as not to overtighten them. In addition, there are different types of rear bushings.

Perhaps fans of simple periodic bike rides are not familiar with this term, but those who often use a bicycle as a vehicle, and even more so, professionals in the field of cycling, are aware of what a bottom bracket mechanism is.

Like any mechanism, this part over time is exposed to external influences, wears out or completely becomes unusable, which requires maintenance, full or partial replacement. In any case, you first need to remove the carriage, establish the suitability of the part, and then decide whether to repair it or replace it with a new one.

The carriage is a unit located in the middle of the frame, placed in a special cavity - a glass. Where to look? It's simple: it is hidden where the cranks with pedals and stars are located. The main function of the bottom bracket is to connect the cranks to the frame of the bike and provide torque when pedaling.

A quite reasonable question may arise: what, without this device, you can not do at all? There is no bicycle without a carriage.If one is still caught, it means that he is not in use now.

Depending on the bike model, carriages differ in size and maintainability. The most common are 68mm knots, but other diameters can also be found. Carriage shaft length range: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.

• cartridge (disposable);
• collapsible to be repaired.

The first type includes carriages that are installed in the frame and cannot be disassembled. Obviously, the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or axle. Full sealing of the unit allows it to be operated for a long time even in extreme conditions, not to mention measured driving.

Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The latter consists in replacing worn bearings and lubricating the entire assembly. We will just talk about them further: how to remove the carriage, troubleshoot and reassemble the assembly.

The fact that the carriage has become "buggy" can be found only when you rotate the pedals. Visually, knot problems are difficult to identify, so it is best to prick up your ears and move your attention to the area of ​​the bottom of the frame. You should not listen too much, especially if you are driving on a busy road. However, if the state of the carriage is not good, it will “scream” about itself without delay.

A faulty bottom bracket will prevent you from cycling quickly. Blocked dirt, worn bearings and lack of lubrication will continually impede movement. All this is accompanied by an unpleasant creak and a characteristic knock from below. Also, the assembly may begin to play (broken bearings and axle misalignment).

It is possible to finally check whether it is really worth disassembling the carriage using the "standing ride" method. To do this, you need to accelerate a little, get up from the seat and twist the pedals. When the carriage mechanism is jammed, the sounds and deterioration of the pedal travel will only increase.

It makes perfect sense to first remove the assembly from the bike frame to fix the problem. To be precise, take it out of the glass. Just about how to do it with your own hands, and the conversation will go.

So, before proceeding with the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:

• Connecting rod squeeze.
• Wrench. If the size of the nut is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will go.
• Flat screwdriver.
• Small hammer.
• Carriage puller for removing from the glass.

Before proceeding with disassembly, you should clean all the space around the carriage. A damp cloth removes all dirt and dust from the frame, bottom bracket area and connecting rods. This will be enough so that excess dirt does not get inside during parsing. But it will be better if you wash the whole bike. Cleanliness is the best repair assistant. Proven!

Plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers that can be easily pry off with a screwdriver and can also be easily inserted back. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. A squeeze will help in this matter: we put it on a nut, then we take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may vary. There is an option where the thread is right on the left side (counterclockwise - loosening), and on the right side - left (counterclockwise - tightening). Maybe there is only a right-hand thread on both sides, it will not be difficult to figure it out.

The next step is to remove the connecting rods. The squeeze is inserted at the other end and twisted into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is forcibly screwed into the connecting rod, as a result of which it gradually comes off the axis. It is recommended to start removal from the side where there are no transmission stars.

The bicycle carriage is held in place by means of special cups fixed with rings. A screwdriver is attached to the ring so that its end points to the left. By lightly tapping the hammer on the screwdriver, the ring smoothly turns to the left and jumps off. Similarly, by turning to the left, using the percussion method, the cup is also removed.

So, finally we got to the bottom bracket bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry, and they will pop out.

And, finally, a removable device pulls out the carriage shaft from the glass - a rotating part that plays a major role in the mobility of the bicycle cranks.

Dismantled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The condition of the bottom bracket depends on how much dirt gets into it and how much the bearings are worn out. Sometimes the bearings simply shatter and require a complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in operation for more than three to five years.

First, all parts must be checked for defects. This primarily applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with latches. If any component has visible damage, then you need to change it to a new one. The rest of the parts are cleaned in a solvent. The most difficult thing will be to clean the bearings: the dirt is very firmly adhered between the balls.

The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to sprinkle fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft dry cloth.

Using a screwdriver, the walls of the glass are processed. Apply the product in an even thin layer. No need to put grease inside the mountain. It's useless. Then grease is applied to the bearing, which is inserted from the side of the stars. The flat bezel should face outward. Then you need to lubricate the carriage shaft and insert it so that the long end is on the transmission side. In general, the carriage assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The bearing on the other side is inserted in reverse, with a frame into the glass. The cups are lubricated from the inside, and then put on. It is necessary to tighten until the axial play is completely eliminated. In this case, the rotation of the shaft should be slightly constrained. As soon as the retaining rings are mounted, the cup will move slightly and the axle will rotate freely.

It remains to collect the connecting rods. The most important thing here is to put them on so that when pedaling, God forbid, they do not fall off. Procedure for Efficient Connecting Rod Assembly:

1. The square is lubricated with a small amount of grease, this will help to push it deeper onto the axle.
2. Processing a screw with a thread lock.
3. Tighten the connecting rod nut with maximum effort until it stops. You can even lengthen the wrench - the thread will not break.
4. Insert plugs.

A bicycle is an extremely unstable unit, therefore, during any repair work, it must be carefully fixed. The frame will not wiggle back and forth, which eliminates the risk of the bike falling to your feet or hands.