DIY computer fan repair

Well, since it happened, you need to operate on him! First, the propeller itself is removed, in this cooler it looks more like a turbine, the blades are at least 2-2.5 times larger than in conventional computer coolers.

Then carefully separate the stator from the plastic base. In fact, it is very difficult and very often the base breaks.

Further, we can see the motor tachometer itself, which actually starts the engine. On the reverse side of the board, a sensor is assembled on SMD components, which is a generator of square-wave pulses, and they feed the stator windings of the motor.

First, we carefully look at the board, if there are breaks, then we solder the jumper and try to start the engine.

In my case, nothing happened and it was decided to upgrade the motor. All SMD components and jumpers are soldered from the board in advance.

For the mod, a working cooler from an ATX computer power supply was taken. It was not quite working (the blades were broken), but the main board with the driver worked. Remove the screw, then take out the board.

On the board, you can see the driver - which powers the entire motor. We solder the stator from the board. We look at the connection of the stator windings - usually there are 3 outputs, two ends of the windings go to one of the outputs, and one wire to the other two outputs.

Output with two ends - connects to the plus of the power supply, plus is also fed to the first leg of the driver. The second and third pins of the driver go to free contacts (there is no phasing and polarity).

Finally, the last leg of the driver is power minus.

Next, we take the crown and try our upgraded engine. Hooray - it works! Thus, we repaired the electric motor well with our own hands. AKA KASYAN

I think that every computer owner has encountered (or will face) a poorly functioning cooler, which either starts making unnecessary sounds, gradually weakening its work, or simply stops and stops cooling the system. Most often, this fan did not “break down” to the end, most likely its mechanical part was simply clogged with dust, and the oil dried out and was absorbed by the same dust, which makes its work significantly more difficult. Most modern computer coolers cannot be opened; if you try to disassemble it, it will be broken. It cannot be disassembled, but you can lubricate it, and this can significantly extend its life.

First, we need to remove it and clean it from outside dust (I think this is understandable).

WITH bottom side fan (air exhaust side), in the center there is holewhich provides shaft access... This hole is usually closed. rubber or plastic plug, and glued on top sticker... Sometimes, there is no plug, and the hole is sealed only with a sticker, and even less often it happens that there is no hole itself, this is sometimes found on coolers for processors and video cards.

The sticker must be removed, and the plug must be removed (if any) by poking it with a sharp object (knife, awl). If you come across a cooler that simply does not have this hole, then you will have to drill it with a screwdriver. The hole diameter should be no more than 6 mm. Plugging the hole with a sharp object (instead of a drill) is highly discouraged, since the inner edges of the new hole can wrap inward and can lock the shaft, and besides, this will increase the likelihood of “sawdust” getting inside the cooler.

After gaining access to the cooler shaft, it is necessary to apply a few drops of machine oil there.This can be done with a syringe or any thin object (match, needle, awl). Reinstall the cover and apply the sticker.

If you have a cooler with a RUBBER plug, or without a plug at all (only a sticker), then you can not remove them, but lubricate the cooler shaft with a syringe, pierce the sticker and rubber plug with a needle and inject oil.

After such a "repair", the cooler will still work from one month to a couple of years - it all depends on its quality, oil quality, and the degree of pollution.

Don't forget to leave comments and reviews, your opinion is important to us!

I found a couple of old fans in my glands and decided to disassemble them to see how they work. In addition, such fans have never been completely disassembled before. All the time, I was limited to the usual peeling off the sticker, removing the plug and adding a couple of drops of oil to the bearing. Both of these fans are from two different PSUs, one 120 mm, the other 80 mm. But they are also attached to the case of the system unit exactly the same, for injecting cold air into it or for pumping out hot air. So, using these examples, you can carry out preventive maintenance on your fans.

I thought to review both fans, after all, a small fan is about 15 years old, but later it turned out that their design is almost the same. Differences are noticeable only in the size and shape of the housing, impeller and motor board. Therefore, I will describe the disassembly process on a large fan (120mm).

First, peel off the sticker under which the rubber stopper is hiding.

With a screwdriver or something sharp, pick it out and take out the cork.

Under the cork, you can see the metal impeller axle, on which a split, white, plastic lock washer is worn. If it is difficult to see due to old grease, then wipe it with a cotton swab.

We insert a narrow screwdriver into the cut of the retaining ring and turn it 90 degrees so that the ring expands. Then we pry the ring with a screwdriver and remove it from the impeller axis. During this process, the puck can easily shoot and roll off somewhere, usually to the most difficult to reach place, under a table, sofa, baseboard, etc.

After removing the retaining ring, remove the rubber ring from the axle.

Now, without much effort, you can separate the impeller from the frame, while it will be slightly held by the magnets that are mounted in the impeller housing.

Remove another rubber ring from the base of the impeller shaft.

On this we can say that the disassembly is complete. We clean everything from dust and old grease.

Actually, the frame itself with the engine.

We also thoroughly clean the brass engine sleeve from dirt and old grease. If you wish, you can remove the board with the motor windings, although this is not necessary for cleaning and lubrication. In my case, it easily removed from both fans, but under the board I found traces of glue. So you may not be able to take it off so easily.

Putting everything together in reverse order. Rubber rings on the bottom and top.

It is convenient to upset the retaining ring with tweezers from both sides at once.

If your fan is very worn out (makes noise, knocks, rattles during operation), then it is better to immediately replace such a fan with a new one. Otherwise, grease the impeller axle with a heavy grease (grease, etc.) before installing it on the engine. I have this fan relatively new, so I assembled it, and only then lubricated it with engine oil, because it is liquid and will always fill all the cracks.

We supply oil with a needle to the rings and the impeller axle, the syringe is indispensable in this regard. In this case, the impeller can be rotated periodically by hand, then it will be easier for the oil to penetrate inside. A lot of oil should not be poured (3-5 drops are enough), since everything superfluous will always find a hole and subsequently will collect dust and become overgrown with moss or fly off the blades throughout the system unit.Here, of course, it all depends on the size of the fan, the big one needs more lubrication, but the small one needs less.

We plug the cork. If this area for the sticker is accidentally flooded with oil, then you need to wipe it with a solvent or white spirit, since this sticker will no longer stick to the oil. The sticker itself can be replaced with tape if the old one has become unusable.

In principle, everything is with prevention. We connect, check, then, depending on the test results, we install it into a computer case or a power supply unit. Or we throw it away and go to the store for a new fan, if, during disassembly, we finally knocked out our old fan. Fan designs are different, both on sleeve bearings, both in my case, and on rolling bearings (ball bearing), but I think the general principle of disassembly is similar.

Recently I got hold of such a 120mm Gembird fan. He drew my attention with the inscription BALL on a protective sticker, which translates sort of as a ball, ball, ball. After disassembly, it turned out that this fan was assembled on a ball bearing. But disassembling it is practically no different from disassembling a cheap fan, which I disassembled a little higher in this thread.

Even the bearing itself in this fan is perfectly understandable with a pin. You just need to carefully remove the retaining ring with a needle, then you can remove the side protective bearing wall (boot). After that, you can safely engage in prophylaxis of the separator and the bearing as a whole, clean, wash, change the lubricant. In this case, the bearing is almost perfect, there is a lot of grease, besides, it is light. If your bearing is dry and dirty, and besides, there is wear and tear (the clips dangle as if the balls have become smaller), then it is better to replace such a bearing with a new one. Although it's easier and maybe cheaper to buy a new fan.

Write a message to the author

Electric motors used in computer fans are built on a slightly different principle. According to their name, such motors do not have a brush-collector unit with sliding contacts.

In the previous section of the article, it was explained that brushed motors are driven by a central part with an electromagnet and a winding, while permanent magnets are stationary. Brushless motors, on the other hand, are designed in such a way that the inductor in the form of magnets is in the rotor and the winding is in the stator.

In the case of computer coolers, magnets are attached to an impeller with fan blades and a fixed shaft. This design in the system under consideration will be considered a rotor. Then the stator will be the fan frame with the necessary components, such as a stationary electromagnet, and the junction of the stator and rotor, in which the bearings of interest are located.

The simplified brushless fans are equipped with only two wires for power supply. Additionally, a third wire may be present, which is necessary for the feedback of the cooler with the motherboard (or another board, if we are talking, for example, about a video card). The readings of such fans are converted by special chips into the number of revolutions per minute (RPM), and this human-readable number can be read in the BIOS or using special monitoring programs. The addition of such a possibility somewhat increases the cost of the circuit, but today a fan without a speed sensor can be found only on the most budgetary computer devices.

Once again, this is a very simplified description of the operation algorithm of brushless motors, but it is quite enough to understand the operation of computer fans.

It is worth mentioning the advantages of motors of this type over collector motors: they are much less noisy, no sparks can arise from contact contacts, and the reliability of devices of this type is noticeably higher.

Power supply fans intermittently fail or run slower than before, affecting overall PC performance. At the same time, repairing a fan costs money, and a visit to a specialist takes time. There is a way out of this situation. The fan can be repaired by yourself without using a screwdriver.

To fix a PC fan you will need:

• a tube with oil for sewing machines;
• stationery knife.

Step 1. Understand the essence of the breakdown

In the above fan photo you can see the standard fan bearing bushing. As it rotates, its shaft slides thanks to a very thin layer of grease. It, in turn, is held by a rubber grommet, which is located under the sticker. A number of fans do not have such a sleeve at all, and the sticker is glued just over the layer of grease. Fan problems begin when the lubricant layer dries out partially or completely.

The traditional repair method involves disassembling the power supply and removing the fan itself. After that, the sticker is removed, the bushing is removed, a new layer of grease is applied and then everything is put in place in reverse order.

The difficulty lies in the fact that all the insides of the power supply are interconnected by wires and the work, despite the simplicity of the description, will be time consuming.

Step 2. Checking if the life hack will work

There is an easier way to apply fan lubricant, but this will not work with all power supplies.
Take a look at the back of yours and if you have four holes in the very center of the fan mounting area, as shown in the photo, then you will succeed. If not, you will have to go the hard way.

You will need to use a tube and sewing machine oil to apply the lubricant. You do not need to use engine oil. This layer will be too thick for the PSU fan.

To apply the oil, you need a tube with a needle itself or a thin pastry syringe. You will have to cut the tip of the tube at a steep angle so that it resembles the tip of a regular needle.

Insert the needle into the center hole of the fan mounting area, piercing the sticker and rubber grommet. If the latter is not there, then quickly pull the needle back out, as the oil will quickly spread over the surface. If there is, then squeeze out some oil and also take out the needle. Turn on the power immediately afterwards so that the fan spreads the lubricant evenly over the surface and starts working again as before.

An increase in acoustic noise emanating from the system unit of a computer is usually associated with a malfunction of the fans (coolers) for cooling the processor, video card, or installed in the case of the system unit. At first, the noise appears when the computer is turned on and disappears after a couple of minutes. The noise disappears, since the lubricant on the impeller axis heats up from its rotation, becomes more liquid and penetrates into the bearing. But over time, the noise becomes constant, as all the lubricant is used up. If noise appears, it is necessary to urgently lubricate the cooler bearing, otherwise it will wear out and you will have to replace the cooler with a new one.

It is necessary to lubricate the cooler bearings with machine oil. Trying different lubricants, I empirically found the best factory or self-made grease for cooler bearings. If there is no oil on hand, then a couple of drops of engine oil taken from the oil dipstick in the car's engine will do.

Lubrication of rolling (ball) bearings and cooler sliding does not always lead to success if the noise is due to physical wear of the axle, bushing, cage and balls. In this case, it will be possible to achieve a positive result only for a short time.If the cooler is noisy or rotates slowly (by the way, one of the reasons for slowing down the computer's performance and freezing in general as a result of overheating of the processor) due to the drying out or neglect of the lubricant, then the new lubricant will extend the life of the cooler at least twice.

The coolers installed to cool the processor, power supply, video card are similar in design. They only differ in the way of fastening, overall dimensions and performance. Therefore, any coolers installed in the computer are disassembled and lubricated using the same technology.

To lubricate the cooler, it must be removed from the radiator and disassembled. It is impossible to lubricate the cooler without removing it, since the access side to the lubrication point is usually pressed against the radiator. The cooler is often attached to the processor heatsink with latches that are invisible at first glance. You can read about one of the common options for attaching a cooler to a processor heatsink in the article "How to remove a cooler from a processor heatsink".

To disassemble the cooler for lubrication, you need to carefully peel off the label, which is glued with a sticky layer, from the side to which the wires fit. To tear it off, so as not to damage, you should slowly.

Some coolers have a rubber stopper. In order to remove it, you need to pry the cork over the edge with a sharp tool and remove. This is easy to do as the plug is simply inserted with an interference fit.

The impeller in the cooler case is held by a flat plastic split washer fixed in the axle groove. In order to remove the impeller for lubricating the bearing, this washer must be removed.

It is necessary to remove the washer very carefully with two tools. The incision on the eye is not noticeable and you need to use a needle, slightly pressing, to guide the washers in a circle until you hook on the place of the incision. With a small screwdriver, press the washer next to the cut on one side, and with an awl or needle pry it on the other side of the cut and remove the washer from the groove in a circle.

This operation must be done carefully so as not to break or lose the washer. Sometimes it flies away and you have to search for a long time. The cooler will not be able to work without this washer, since the impeller will not be fixed.

The rubber ring is removed and the impeller is removed. Another rubber ring is removed from its axis.

In a cooler that has been operating for a long time, the rubber rings can be completely worn out and only wear products remain at the place of their installation. Unfortunately, such rubber rings are not sold as spare parts, and without them even a lubricated cooler bearing can make noise due to the longitudinal displacement of the impeller axis during operation. If you have old coolers, you can try to remove the ring from them, maybe they survived. Usually, the rubber ring installed at the retaining washer is exposed to more wear, since during the operation of the cooler all the pressure falls on it.

If one of the rings has survived in the cooler, then when assembling the cooler, install it on the impeller axle in front of the fixing washer. In this case, it is quite possible that the cooler will work quietly. Otherwise, you will have to put up with the noise or replace the cooler with a new one. How to replace a cooler, including non-standard ones, about altering the power connector and color marking of wires, is detailed in the article "How to replace a cooler for a processor, video card, computer power supply".

Before applying graphite grease on the cooler bearing surfaces, remove the old grease and bearing wear products with a napkin soaked in any solvent, especially carefully from the bore of the bearing sleeve. A thin layer of fresh graphite grease is applied to the rubbing parts of the cooler bearing, and the cooler is assembled in the reverse order.

If the label is torn or does not want to stick, then most likely grease has got on the surface of the cooler case. It must be removed with a solvent.If the sticker is torn or the adhesive has lost its adhesive properties, tape can be applied instead to protect the bearing from dust.

Graphite itself is a lubricant because its crystals are flaky and densely cover the surface with a thin layer. The oil performs rather a graphite binder function. Applying self-made graphite grease to bearing wear surfaces, combined with synthetic engine oil and graphite, will ensure a long cooler life without replacement or maintenance.

To prepare graphite grease, you need to take a few drops of synthetic engine oil and add graphite powder to it. Mix thoroughly until smooth. You should get a thick graphite grease.

Graphite for the preparation of cooler lubrication can be obtained by grinding off the lead of a simple pencil or brushes from the commutator motor on fine sandpaper. Some brushes are made from a mixture of graphite and charcoal. Therefore, if you are not sure that the brush is graphite, then it is better not to use such a brush. Of course, it is best to use industrial grade graphite for lubrication.

By e-mail I received a letter in which a visitor to the site Vasily shared his experience in repairing coolers. I liked his advice, I believe that they will be useful to many who are faced with the repair of a cooler.

I often have to deal with the repair of coolers and decided to share my experience:

✔ If a split plastic washer is lost or broken, then it can be made from a plastic travel card, the main thing is to choose a card of suitable thickness. Business cards made of the same material are also suitable.

✔ If the rubber ring is scattered, torn or lost, then a gas lighter can serve as its donor. It has a matching rubber ring under the valve. In different models of lighters, the ring is of different thickness, so you need to choose the right one. If you come across a ring thicker than necessary, then it must be installed on the bottom of the impeller axis, and under the fixing washer, put what was previously on the impeller axis from below.

Background of the experiment: CPU cooling (LGA775 socket) was provided by the CNPS7700-AICu cooling system. Intel Pentium D930 processor, purchased in 2005. At that time, quite powerful and expensive. Therefore, I did not save on cooling. Bought Zalman CNPS7700-AICu... For four years he regularly performed the task assigned to him. There are no complaints about cooling the processor now, but it has become quite a noise.

Therefore, I decided to send the old man to retire and started repairs. Precisely repair, because replacement is laziness and waste, at least in this situation. In place of the noisy fan, I decided to put Floston, because the noise from it is less than from the dead, but meanwhile it costs a penny compared to its predecessor.

Since the cooling system itself is very high quality, it was decided to leave the radiator. The fan decided to install Floston. Since the shape of the petals of the old Zalman and Floston was different, part of the body of the latter had to be removed to blow the side blades of the radiator. The result is the following construction:

I installed the radiator in place, started the computer and after 10 minutes received an alarm signal - overheating. The CPU temperature has exceeded 60 degrees. The first thing I thought about: Poor contact between the processor and the heatsink due to the installation according to the curve of the hand. Disassembled, assembled, checked. The same. Overheating, apparently, happened due to the fact that when dismantling the heatsink I replaced the thermal paste and applied it with a thinner layer and the surfaces of the heatsink and the processor were no longer in full contact. I had to identify and correct the cause of poor contact.

When installing a radiator (even if it is at least twice new and expensive), it is very important to ensure that the contact between the surfaces is maximum. Unfortunately, neither the price nor the company guarantees this today.Those who think that thermal paste will fix everything are wrong. Thermal paste is used to fill small voids in order to improve heat transfer. This is an assistant, but not the main employee. Over time, thermal paste dries, hardens and loses thermal conductivity, so the less the better!

I have repeatedly come across the fact that even expensive cooling systems do not always have a perfectly flat radiator surface. To this may be added a slightly deformed (bent due to uneven clamping by the clamping mechanism) surface of the processor itself. In general, we are talking about a maximum of some fractions of a millimeter, but the difference minimum at 7-10 degrees, this circumstance can be ensured, believe me! The case of this article is just one of this series.

How to determine the quality of the contact? After installing the processor, you need to apply a thin layer of thermal paste. Since the thin concept is relative, I will clarify. Apply a small drop of thermal paste (the size of a buckwheat grain) to the tip of your finger, then smear it on the surface of the processor in a circular motion. Hands must be clean, the surface is free of grease. It should turn out something like this.

After that, you need to attach (no pressure) the heatsink to the processor and slightly (a few degrees) turn left and right.

After that, you should see what kind of trace the thermal paste left. In my case, I ended up with two thin stripes along the edges. This meant that the surface of the heatsink had warped over time and had a depression in the center. Therefore, it was necessary to straighten it back. To do this, I needed coarse and medium sandpaper and an even block. As a bar, I used a radiator from an old computer. We remove traces of thermal paste (best of all, it is removed in a circular motion with toilet paper) and we take up the sandpaper.

To determine the scale of the tragedy, you need to process the radiator with coarse sandpaper so that it leaves scratches, then finer. Fine sandpaper will smooth out large scratches, they will remain only in the cavity. If you inspect the surface of the radiator at an angle to light, the depressions (irregularities) will be very clearly visible. The photo shows a depression in the center.

The radiator is processed until large scratches disappear. You do not need to press, otherwise there is a risk of grinding off the edges, which will lead to the opposite effect - a bulge is formed. When the scratches disappear, you can polish the radiator with fine emery paper (zero) or abrasive (ordinary soda will do fine). Then you should repeat the operation of applying the heatsink to the processor.

In my case, it was all the fault of the time, the radiator was subjected to heating cycles for 4 years. This played a role. And replacing the thermal paste when dismantling the radiator just made the problem worse. But, as noted above, now you can easily buy a new radiator with a non-ideal surface. So the procedure for installing a radiator must always be monitored!

In general, I sent the radiator twice for revision, because the result seemed to me not satisfactory. Photos with intermediate results:

If the trace remains on 50% of the surface, it is great, since the impression is made with almost complete absence of paste. Therefore, half is already good. More is better, though. In a word, it is desirable to grind to the bitter end, but the result of more than 50% is already quite acceptable.

So, 50% (or more) smeared, move on to the final step. You need to apply a slightly thicker layer of paste and attach the heatsink to the processor. It should feel like the radiator is sliding like a lump of butter in a hot frying pan. In the end, my result turned out to be more than satisfactory (on the right in the photo above). It would be possible to get a result close to 100% contact, but for the sake of a 3-5 degree bonus, it was too lazy to do it.

It remains to smear the remnants of the paste (and there is more than enough of it), wipe the radiator, put it in place, collect the whole thing and go to test. The result is quite good. Especially when you consider that my protection worked at temperatures above 60 degrees.

The result has improved markedly. Polishing the surface of the heatsink of the cooling system made a tangible contribution to the cooling of the processor, reducing its temperature by 20 degrees.

A processor cooler is a device that consists of a fan and a heatsink. Its main task is to provide cooling for the processor, which is one of the hottest elements in the system unit.

If the processor cooler starts emitting a characteristic hum, then it's time to repair or replace it.

To remove dust from the fan, use a special oil that is sold in computer stores. To access the fan, unhook it from the radiator. In most cases, the fan is secured with screws that need to be removed.

As practice shows, a lot of dust accumulates on the fan blades. Use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to clean them. Please note that if the dust from the fan has not been removed for a long time, then it could be compressed and form a kind of crust. Use force to remove it. It is not necessary to remove the impeller from the slot to remove dust from the blades.

Broken CPU cooler mount? Dont be upset! Now you will learn how you can fix the mount with your own hands and restore the work of your favorite computer.

Good day. I would like to share how you can fix the problem of attaching the boxed processor cooler to the motherboard.

Most often, the breakdown is as follows: the plastic fastening of the latches breaks off. I replaced it with a quick-detachable rubber connection for standard fans from a computer (I'll make a reservation right away, screws and nuts should be used for cooling monsters), and a metal washer, I have this crimp mount.

The place of cutting is highlighted in red. The photo of the motherboard shows that the diameter of the hole in it coincides with the diameter of our mount, so no problems should arise during installation. The washer was used to prevent our connection from falling into the hole in the cooler mounting.

All that remains is to slide our CPU cooler mount into the motherboard and pull it out on the other side until it locks in place.

As a result, we got the following: a fairly tight fit of the cooler's sole to the processor and, as a result, decent cooling.

If the fit is loose, then you can make a plastic washer from available materials and place it on the back of the computer motherboard. As a result, the final photo shows that there is a deformation of the motherboard, which means that the connection is very tight. But I changed all the "native" mountings for rubber ones and as a result, my temporary house has been working for more than a year on my son's computer)))

Good luck to everyone and God help)))

The author of the article "Repairing the processor cooler mounting" is Alexander Shutov.

Dear readers, if you have any work on the repair of computer equipment or any other ideas that you want to share with the rest of the readers of the World of Homemade products, send them to our mail: All works will be published with an indication of your authorship!

See also articles from the section homemade products for pc:

What is a cooler? PC air cooling system

Cooler (from the English cooler) - literally translated as a cooler. In essence, it is a device designed to cool the heating element of the computer (most often the central processor). The cooler is a metal radiator with a fan that drives air through it. Most often, it is the fan in the computer system unit that is called a cooler. This is not entirely correct.A fan is a fan, and a cooler is exactly a device (heatsink with a fan) that cools a specific element (for example, a processor).

The fans installed in the case of the computer system unit provide general ventilation in the case, the intake of cold air and the output of hot air. Thus, there is a general decrease in the temperature inside the case.

The cooler, unlike case fans, provides local cooling of a specific element that gets very hot. The cooler is most often installed on the central processor and video card. After all, the video processor heats up no less than the CPU, and sometimes the load on it is much stronger, for example, during a game.

The power supply also contains a fan, which simultaneously serves both to cool the heating elements in the power supply, as it blows air through it, and for general ventilation inside the computer. In the simplest version of a PC cooling system, it is the fan inside the power supply that provides air ventilation inside the entire case.
Useful advice:
Find out the temperature of your PC components at least occasionally. This will help to avoid many unnecessary problems. Now there are many free programs for this. For instance, EVEREST Ultimate Edition ... The operating temperature of the processor should not exceed 75 degrees, the temperature of the video card largely depends on the power of the model. For expensive cards, 90-100 degrees can be considered a normal temperature. The optimum temperature for a hard drive is 30-45 degrees.

Which direction should the fans turn in the case.

So, let's consider the ventilation and cooling scheme of the computer. After all, many beginners, when assembling a computer on their own, have the question “Where should the fan blow” or “In which direction the cooler should turn”. In fact, this is really important, because properly organized ventilation inside the computer is the key to its reliable operation.

Cold air is supplied to the housing from the front lower part (1). This should be taken into account when cleaning your computer from dust. It is imperative to vacuum the place where air is sucked into the computer. The air flow gradually warms up and rises upward and already hot air is blown out through the power supply unit (2) in the upper rear part of the case.

In the case of a large number of heating elements inside the case (for example, a powerful video card or several video cards, a large number of hard drives, etc.) or a small amount of free space inside the case, additional fans are installed in the case to increase air flow and improve cooling efficiency. Better to install fans with a large diameter. They provide more air flow at lower speeds and are therefore more efficient and quieter than smaller diameter fans.

When installing fans, take into account the direction in which they blow. Otherwise, you can not only not improve the cooling of your computer, but also worsen it. If you have a large number of hard drives, or if you have drives operating at high speeds (from 7200 rpm), you should install an additional fan in the front of the case (3) so that it blows through the hard drives.

In the presence of a large number of heating elements (powerful video card, several video cards, a large number of boards installed in the computer) or if there is not enough free space inside the case, it is recommended to install an additional fan in the upper rear part of the case (4). This fan should blow air out. This will increase the airflow through the case and cool all internal components of the computer. Do not install the rear fan so that it blows inside the case! This will disrupt the normal circulation inside the PC. On some cases, it is possible to install a fan on the side cover. In this case, the fan must rotate so that it sucks air into the inside of the case.In no case should he blow it out, otherwise the upper part of the computer, in particular the power supply, the motherboard and the processor, will not be sufficiently cooled.

Which direction should the fan on the cooler blow.

I repeat that the cooler is designed for local cooling of a specific element. Therefore, the total air circulation in the enclosure is not taken into account here. The fan on the cooler must blow air through the heatsink, thereby cooling it down. That is, the fan on the processor cooler should blow towards the processor.

On some models of coolers, the fan is installed on a remote radiator. In this case, it is better to place it so that the air flow is directed towards the rear wall of the case or up towards the power supply unit.

On most powerful video cards, the cooler is a radiator and an impeller that does not blow air inward from the top, but drives it in a circle. That is, in this case, air is sucked in through one half of the radiator, and blown out through the other.

The site, Do-it-yourself computer repair offers a set of practical information on repairing, setting up computers and Windows with your own hands. Here you can find tips on how to fix this or that computer malfunction on your own. How to install and configure Windows. In addition, the site regularly publishes interesting news and articles.

Almost every home has a computer, and like all other technicians, a computer has in its arsenal coolers for cooling radio components.
In this short article I will tell you how you can reduce the noise level in your computer with the ability to smoothly adjust the speed of computer coolers.
In most cases, coolers rotate at maximum speed.

The characteristics of computer coolers in different modes of robots can be very different, for each of them it is necessary to choose resistors with different parameters (1K-1.5K).
For the transistor, it is advisable to put a radiator for heat dissipation.