A piece of marble is needed about 150X200 mm in size, so that you can cut pieces of leather on it for patches on the top of the shoes, since the knife will cut into the wooden board (the plane of the knife moves at an acute angle to the board).
Of the tools you need, first of all, a set of knives, tools for sharpening and dressing knives, a hammer, an awl.
An ordinary boot knife is a steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm wide, 2 mm thick. Its blade is an oblique cut at the end of a plate about 45 mm long (Fig. 2). The non-working part of the knife is covered with leather or wrapped with insulating tape.
Rice. 2. An ordinary boot knife. It is made of steel strip 210-225 mm long, 20-25 mm chirp, 2 mm thick.
A boot knife is a versatile tool. It is used to cut worn-out parts and their parts from shoes, for example, a worn-out part of a heel or sole, to cut out parts necessary for repairing shoes from a new material: vamp, heels, etc.
In addition to the usual boot knife, two more special ones are needed: one for lowering the edges of leather parts (Fig. 3), the other - for cutting leather on the upper of shoes and lining (Fig. 4). Dimensions of the first: length 150-200, width 10-12, thickness 2 mm, dimensions of the second, respectively - 150-180 mm, 8-12 mm, 2 mm.
Rice. 3. A boot knife for cutting the edges of leather parts.
It is made of steel strip 150-200 mm long, 10-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.
Video (click to play).
It is made of steel strip 150 - 180 mm long, 8-12 mm wide, 2 mm thick.
After sharpening on a block or sharpening stone, the knives must be sharpened in order to remove burrs from the blades. The straightening is usually carried out on a steel rod with a polished surface 200-250 mm long and 8-14 mm thick. The rod must be tempered and magnetized. Ceramic insulating tubes of arbitrary dimensions can also be used. Editing is performed as shown in Fig. 5.
Rice. 5. Editing a boot knife:
A steel rod or an insulating tube is held in my left hand, and a knife - in my right hand, I run the knife blade over the dressing tool from one side or the other until you are sure that the knife has no burrs.
The boot hammer (Fig. 6) has a firing pin with a convex working surface, carefully polished.
Rice. 6. Boot hammer: 1 - striker with a convex, carefully polished surface, 2 - handle, 3 - wedge, 4 - cheeks, 5 - screws for fixing cheeks.
To repair shoes, be sure to stock up on materials. These can be uppers, soles, heels and other details from old shoes. After all, not all parts of the shoe wear out so that they cannot be used for repairs. In addition, if you carefully disassemble old shoes, you can find unworn pieces of leather or leatherette for patches.
Adhesive patches can be your first taste of shoemaking. Or maybe you really will become a good shoemaker! It won't hurt in life. Remember: the great chemist D.I.Mendeleev was a first-class master in the manufacture of suitcases. Leo Tolstoy sewed his own boots.
So how do you make adhesive patches?
Most often, boots or shoes manage to leak in places of folds from cracks caused by careless handling of shoes. Then you can put patches on the top, taken from pieces of chrome or artificial leather, as well as textile materials. With careful selection, you can find patches that are the same in color, pattern, thickness, texture with the surface of the repaired shoes to which you are going to glue them.Then the patch will be invisible.
The coincidence of the patch in shape and size with the place where it is going to be installed is achieved as follows. At the top, around the repaired area, draw a line of the patch border with chalk with an allowance of 6-7 mm along the entire perimeter. The patch should have smooth outlines, without sharp corners and depressions. Most often it is cut in the form of a circle or oval (Fig. 7).
Rice. 7. Determination of the shape of the patch at the seam and at the edge of the lingering crowbar: 1 - chalk line, 2, 3 - patch and finished parts
The piece of leather selected for the patch is applied with the non-front side to the place to be repaired, smoothed by hand. On the trail of the chalk line, a patch is cut out with scissors, the edges of which are lowered (cut off) with a knife, that is, the non-face side along the entire perimeter. The width of the descent should be equal to the allowance of about 5-7 mm on the patch
Now the section of the top of the shoe where the patch is placed is cleaned with fine sandpaper (sandpaper), dust is removed from it. Instead of a pelt, you can use a file with a fine notch. Pruning is best done on a shoemaking board.
Then glue is applied to the upper of the shoe and the inside of the patch with a brush. Let it dry. Before putting the holes in place, the patch is heated near a heating battery or over an electric heater, but in no case over a burning gas stove - it can easily flare up. After that, it is quickly applied to the top and firmly pressed by hand from the outside and inside, until it adheres firmly to the place. You can use synthetic adhesives made on the basis of synthetic rubbers or synthetic resins, as well as a variety of shoe adhesives, "Moment" and "Phoenix".
When using nitrocellulose glue, which dries quickly, drying and heating are not necessary. The patch with glue is quickly applied and pressed. If the patch is placed at the seam, part of the stitching needs to be ripped up, the threads removed and everything is done as in the previous case. The patch is glued in the same way at the edge of the tightening edge of the top, but it still needs to be reinforced with a thread seam (Fig. 8).
Rice. 8. Leading a manual seam on old punctures.
If the patch is placed at the seam or at the edge of the lingering edge of the top, then it is better to lead the seam along the old machine punctures. But where they are not, they lead their own hand seam. Threads are used nylon or cotton. It is advisable to rub them with wax, except for the ends. If the threads are nylon, the ends are scorched with a burning match.
The hand stitch is sewn as shown in Figure 9. The first stitch is created by sewing a simple hand-held two-thread stitch. The hand seam should be longer than the outside of the stitching. Its beginning and end come in 2-3 stitches on the outer stitch. The seam is led to completion, where possible - along machine punctures, and the ends of the thread are tied in a knot.
Heels wear out especially quickly. It all depends on how the person walks.
The easiest way to repair a heel.
- The surface of the worn heel is leveled with a boot knife. Sand the cut off place with sandpaper, remove dust from it.
- Choose the material for the heels. It can be a foam rubber plate. Other wear-resistant rubber can also be used. The selected material in size and shape must match the size and shape of the heels.
- Smear the heel and heel with synthetic glue "88" or BF, but best of all with "Moment", dry at room temperature until the solvent evaporates, then warm up the adhesive film before applying to the heel by holding the heel and heel for 1-2 minutes over an electric heating device, for example electric tiles.
- The heel should be pressed against the heel and the connection should be left under load for 30-40 minutes.
- When the heel adheres to the heel, work the side surface with a knife, removing the projections, and sand the heel with sandpaper.
this is not a complete article on shoe repair technology, to be continued.
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In this tutorial, I will show you how to repair cracked leather on a shoe near the sole.
I'll tell you the subtleties of the work. How to patch without being noticeable.
