In detail: do-it-yourself repair of outerwear from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
To a darned place was almost imperceptible, they select threads in color, thickness and quality that would correspond to the fabrics being repaired. You can pull the threads out of the hem at the seams. Darning stitches should first run along the fabric (warp) and then crosswise (weft). Start off darning it must be in a strong place, otherwise it will quickly collapse. The stitches should be fine. With a transverse passage, the needle is passed under the thread, then over it. At the edges of the darning, the thread is not pulled too tight so that the shrinkage of the thread does not tighten the fabric during washing. The rows of threads should fit snugly against one another. You can also darn on a sewing machine, which has a special device.
If the fabric is not frayed through, but only very thinned, darn along the threads, without making cross stitches.
If a piece of fabric is accidentally snatched out and it is torn at the same time along the weft and the warp, then it is necessary to darn as two separate tears.
Patches must be of the same material from which the item is sewn, or of a similar quality and color. Before applying the patch, the material must be washed and ironed so that it does not sit down later. The patch is applied to the place to be repaired, observing the direction of the weft and warp threads. If it needs to be placed near the seam, then the seam is paired, and the patch is brought into this seam with one side. Then it is swept in and after that, bending the edges, sewn with a blind seam from the front side and from the wrong side. Pull out the outline. On a rectangular patch, an oblique incision is made at all four corners to a depth of 0.5 cm. If the patch is not visible, it can be sewn on with a typewriter.
Video (click to play).
On the diaper fabrics, the patch is applied on top. To do this, the damaged area is outlined, adding 0.5 cm to each side, and the corresponding patch is cut out. Bending the edges inward, sew. On variegated materials, the pattern should match the pattern of the item being repaired.
Sheets and towels can be repaired as needed. The sheets are often wiped in the middle. They are repaired like this: they are cut in the middle along the warp thread and both halves are attached with edges, and the edges are trimmed.
Towels tend to wear out faster at the ends. The towel is cut in the middle and sewn back with worn ends. The edges of the towels are trimmed.
Jackets and trousers sometimes require minor repairs: the cuffs of sleeves and trousers wear out. The sleeve cuffs are repaired as follows: the lining is stripped off and the hem of the sleeve is carefully cut off. The ends of the sleeves and the cut strip are ironed out, the strip is sewn on, then folded inward, the lining is sewn on and ironed again. On trousers, the edges are repaired in the same way. If the braid of the trousers is frayed, it is replaced with a new one. The trouser tape has a thickened edge, which should protrude from the edge of the trousers along its entire width. If, along with the braid, the edge of the trousers themselves is rubbed, then first the bent edge of the bottom of the trousers is stripped off, cleaned of dirt and ironed. Worn places are plastered and the trousers are folded 3-5 mm above the stitching line. A new braid is sewn along the edge.
If children's trousers are worn in the back to the holes, then in order to apply a patch, they are ripped apart at the seams. Then the rectangular patches are cut, leaving 0.5 cm on each side for the seams. It is recommended to hem a satin strip on the inside of the patch, this will protect the trousers from rapid wear in the future. The finished patch is strongly ironed, smoothing its seams. And so that the braid at the bottom of the trousers does not wear out and does not get shaggy, saturate it with PVA glue.
Lace curtains are usually darned. But it takes a lot of time, and the darned places spoil the look of the curtains.It is better to soak the pieces from old curtains, corresponding to the pattern, in starch and glue the curtains from the inside out to the damaged area, and then iron them with a hot iron.
Woolen items can be repaired as follows: move the edges of the gap as close as possible, take a piece of the same cloth, spread it thickly with egg white and place it under the torn place, then iron it from the inside out with a hot iron.
The damaged area of any item can be glued with BF-6 glue or other fabric glue. The prepared patch is moistened and ironed. The patch is placed under the damaged area, face up, and the outline of the flaw is outlined in chalk through the hole in the fabric. The edges of the patch should be 1–2 cm larger than the damaged area. Separately, prepare a patch for the patch, which should be 0.5–1 cm larger than the patch itself along the edge. Squeeze a little glue onto a clean glass and let it dry for 4–6 minutes. With dried glue, smear the damp cloth, the edges of the patch and the patch. The gap between the edges of the damaged item and the edges of the patch is also smeared with a thin layer of glue. The glue layer is also allowed to dry, after which it is lubricated again. The second layer is also allowed to dry, then, applying a patch smeared with glue, they fasten everything with an iron (3-4 seconds). After preliminary fastening of the patch, the thing is turned over, a damp cloth is placed on top and kept under the iron for 20 seconds. Exposure under a hot iron is repeated 2-3 times, wetting a rag.
Slit pockets wear down at the edges. To repair them, the paper clips on the pockets are stripped off, the bottom frame is unstitched, and the edging is turned onto the front side. Then it is stripped off and the worn edge is cut off. After ironing, the hem is sewn on the lower edges. The seam is ironed out. If the width of the facing is not enough and there is no spare material, then you have to use the fabric from under the bead. For the manufacture of a pocket frame during repair, a pocket flap is often used, without which the thing does not lose its appearance. The sewn edging is wrapped inside the pocket and, covering the edge of the frame, is sewn along the seam line. At the end of the repair, the paper clips are placed along the edges of the pocket, where they were previously. The burlap of the pocket, if it is worn out only in its lower part, is cut to a strong place and again sewn or extended.
The button is sewn on not pulling strongly to the material, but leaving the thread somewhat free. The "stalk" formed in this way must be wrapped several times with thread. This is done so that the loop wraps around the button loosely without pulling. Moreover, the "stalk" should be longer in denser tissue and shorter in light tissue. A button can be sewn to silk without a "stalk", not pulling the thread very tightly. When sewing buttons to outerwear, you need to put a small button or a piece of fabric on the other side - for strength.
The buttons are sewn in places where the fabric is not stretched too much. To position the sewn buttons exactly opposite each other, you must first sew the upper part of the button, make a mark on its head with chalk and press it to the opposite side. The second half of the button is sewn onto the printed place.
If the leather gloves are tight, wrap them in a damp cloth for a few hours, then put them on your hands and dry as they are.
Leather gloves sometimes fade from the inside out and get your hands dirty. Rub talcum powder on the seamy side to keep your hands clean.
To protect the white fur from yellowing, we advise you to store it in a blue bag or case in the summer.
Wear and tear on the elbows can be reduced. This is especially true for jerseys. Sew on the sleeves from the inside out with a piece of light fabric, preferably the same color. Then the lining will be wiped, not the jersey.
Do not hang woolen clothing you have just taken off in your closet. It must first be ventilated, cleaned of dust and only then hung in the closet.
Do not hang clothes on the back of a chair. From this it loses its shape. Coming from the street, immediately hang your coat or dress on a hanger. It is important that they match the shape and size of the garment.Short shoulders will stretch the sleeves, long ones will make dents on them. Dresses with a large neckline slide off any hanger, so the hanger should be covered with fabric.
Wet woolen clothing should not be dried near heating. The fabric loses its natural properties from heat.
Threads for darning in color, thickness and quality should correspond to the fabrics being repaired. They can also be pulled out of the hem at the seams. The darning stitches should be fine and go first along the share thread, and then along the weft (across). With a transverse puncture, the needle is passed under the thread, then over it. At the edges of the darning, the thread is not tightly pulled, so that when shrinking after washing, the threads do not tighten the fabric. The rows of threads should fit snugly against one another. Darning can also be done on a sewing machine with a special device. If the fabric is not frayed through, but only very thinned, the darning is laid along the share, without making cross stitches.
Patches must be of the same material from which the item is sewn, or of a similar quality and color. Before applying the patch, the material must be washed and ironed so that it does not sit down later. The patch is applied to the repaired place, combining the share and weft threads. If the patch is to be placed near the seam, the seam is paired and the patch is inserted with one side into the seam. Then it is swept in and after that, bending the edges, sewn with a blind seam from the front side and from the wrong side. Pull out the outline. On a rectangular patch in all four corners, an oblique incision is made to a depth of 0.5 cm. If the patch is not visible, you can sew it on with a typewriter.
On the diaper fabrics, the patch is applied on top. To do this, the damaged area is outlined, adding 0.5 cm to each side, and the corresponding patch is cut out. Bending the edges inward, sew. On variegated materials, the pattern should match the pattern of the item being repaired.
Damaged areas of any item can be glued with BF-6 glue or other fabric glue. The prepared patch must be moistened, ironed, placed under the damaged area with the face up and through the hole in the fabric, draw around the contour with chalk. The edges of the patch should be 1–2 cm larger than the damaged area. Separately, prepare a patch for the patch, which should be 1–0.5 cm larger than the patch itself along the edge. Apply a little glue to a clean glass and let it dry for 4–6 minutes. With dried glue, smear the damp cloth, the edges of the patch and the patch. The gap between the edges of the damaged item and the edges of the patch is also lubricated with a thin layer of glue, allowed to dry and re-lubricated. The second layer is also allowed to dry, then, applying a patch smeared with glue, they fasten everything with an iron (3-4 seconds). After preliminary fastening of the patch, the thing is turned over, a damp cloth is placed on top and kept under the iron for 20 seconds, then repeated two or three times, wetting the rag.
Fixing sheets and towels... The sheets are often wiped in the middle - they are cut along the lobar thread and both halves are sewn along the edges.
Towels tend to wear out faster at the ends. The towel is cut in the middle and sewn with worn ends. The edges are hemmed.
Blazers and trousers sometimes they require minor repairs: the cuffs of the sleeves and trousers wear out. The sleeve cuffs are repaired as follows: the lining is stripped off and the hem of the sleeve is carefully cut off. The ends of the sleeves and the cut strip are ironed out, the strip is sewn on, then folded over, the lining is sewn on and ironed again. On trousers, the edges are repaired in the same way. If the braid of the trousers is frayed, it is replaced. So that the braid on the bottom of the trousers does not wear out, it can be impregnated with PVA glue.
Lace curtains usually darned, but it takes a long time, and darned places spoil the appearance of the product. Pieces of old curtains, corresponding to the pattern, can be soaked in a starch solution and "glued" to the damaged area of the curtains from the inside out, and then ironed with a hot iron.
Woolen Woven can be repaired as follows: move the edges of the gap as close as possible, take a piece of the same cloth, spread it thickly with egg white and put it under the torn place, and then iron it from the inside out with a hot iron.
Buttons sewn, leaving the thread somewhat free. The "stalk" formed in this way is wrapped with a thread several times (it should be longer on dense fabric and shorter on lightweight). A button can be sewn to silk without a "stalk" by loosely pulling the thread. Sewing buttons to outerwear, put a small button or a piece of fabric on the other side - for strength.
Buttons sewn in places where the fabric is not too tight. To position the sewn buttons exactly opposite each other, first sew the upper part of the button, make a mark on the head with chalk and press it to the opposite side. The second half of the button is sewn into place of the print.
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