DIY canon camcorder repair

In detail: do-it-yourself canon video camera repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the first approximation, any digital camera consists of the following main parts and assemblies: Lens and diaphragm, a set of optical converters and mirrors and a digital matrix, a control and data storage unit.

The principle of operation of the camera is well understood from the block diagram in the figure below:

If you look at the picture above, you can clearly see that first the light flux enters the lens, then follows through the diaphragm and shutter, which dose the amount of light that hits the photosensitive elements of the matrix. Each pixel of the matrix transmits information about the intensity of the luminous flux and the light spectrum. Further, this information goes to the analog-to-digital converter. From the ADC output, the digital code through the processing unit is displayed on a digital display or saved to internal or external memory.

Service manuals for digital cameras Casio EX-P600 EX-S1 / M1, EX-S2 / M2, EX-S3, QV-3EX, EX-S770, EX-S770D, QV-100B, QV-100C, QV-4000 and on other models

FUJIFILM FINEPIX 30I, 4800 ZOOM, 4900, 50I, 6800, 6900, etc.

Digital photographic equipment BBK in the selection with manuals you will find information on disassembly, a catalog of spare parts for BBK DP710, DP810, DP830, DP850, DP1050, DP1250, etc.

Detailed service manual for LG LDC-A310 digital camera.

An article on protecting digital cameras during their use, and LG GR-DV 4000 description of a malfunction with a DC / DC converter

In addition to collections with service documentation, we analyzed typical malfunctions and ways to eliminate them in Minolta cameras.

JVC GC-QX3U, JVC GC-X1E-S, JVC GC-X3E-DS, JVC GF-500EG, JVC GR-AX200EA, GR-AX210, GR-AX350, AX400EA, AX48EG, AX68EG and many other models

Video (click to play).

Repair of Olympus digital cameras associated with disassembling the camera or replacing the firmware, in order to avoid unnecessary damage, you must start with familiarizing yourself with the necessary service manual and the device for a specific camera model, which you can download from us.

A huge selection of Nikon digital photo service manuals, here is not a complete list of available technical information Nicon Coolpix 700 sm, 800, 885, 950, 3000, 3100, 3500, 4500, 5000, 5200, 7900, 8400, 9000, L1 - L20, P1 -P6000, S1-S550, D40, D50, D60, D70, D80, D200, D300, f1 - f90x, N50, N90

Sigma Nikon AF 70-300mm f4-5.6 D Macro Repair Manual

To make a good repair of your digital camera, you first need to clearly understand the structure of the camera. To begin with, you should understand that any photographic technique is first of all optics, and only then electronics.

Camera device short course of a young repairman: There is a membrane and a shutter inside the lens. The membrane consists of several petals and, when closed, reduces the caliber of the hole through which the light goes to the matrix. Due to this, the amount of incident light is miniaturized and excessive illumination of the matrix is prevented when the subject is clearly illuminated.

Next is a photosensitive matrix, the upper shot of which is made of glass. The photosensitive plane of the matrix is located in front of the protective glass. Structurally, it consists of a large number of light-sensitive cells. Light falling on them produces a galvanic charge. After the shooting is completed, the charges that have arisen are transferred to the analog-to-digital converter. This is where digitization comes in. The digitized information is transferred to the RAM. RAM stores information only when it is on. The picture is located in RAM for only microseconds. It is also digitally processed - the color rendering, sharpness, saturation and other properties of the image are improved. ... The processed image is transferred to the memory card. Here the digital photo can be stored for a long time.

The main problem that arises with digital flash drives is due to contamination of the contacts. To eliminate this problem, it is enough just to rinse the contacts with, for example, gasoline alcohol.

If the digicam does not turn on, check that the batteries are connected correctly and their charge level at least with a conventional tester. The current in the batteries should not be less than 1 ampere, at lower values the camera runs the risk of not even turning on

The main microcontroller controls the digital camera... A visual viewfinder is located above the lens. During zooming, the distance between the lens elements changes. If there are no problems with the batteries and the fotik still does not cut in, check if power is supplied to the main microcontroller (processor), if everything is OK, you need to change it. Do not rush to open the camera without having disassembly instructions at hand, otherwise you risk damaging the mounting elements. You can download a large number of service instructions from the site https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3558

The flash unit is located on a separate board with a huge capacitor and a transformer. An LCD monitor is located on the back of the camera.

Some Common Problems and Solutions for Digital Cameras

Defective optical sensor in the lens of a digital camera or video camera: An optocoupler consists of 2 parts - a radiation source (IR LED) and a photodetector (eg photodiode, phototransistor, photothyristor). You can determine the part of the light emitter, as well as the anode and cathode of the LED, using a conventional tester. Accordingly, opposite the light emitter terminals - the photodetector terminals and, as a rule, opposite the light emitter anode terminal - the photodetector anode or collector, opposite the light emitter cathode - the photodetector cathode or emitter. Optocouplers in cameras are used in the zoom lens mechanism. When a voltage is applied to the emitter and an open light flux, the photodetector is open and the voltage at its anode or collector is zero, when the photodetector is closed, the voltage is equal to the power source. If it is not possible to check the optocoupler directly in the camera, the operability can be checked according to the following diagram.

Repair of lenses in digital cameras

A lens in a digital camera is a complex optical-mechanical device that combines elements of precision mechanics and optics. In cameras, it is most at risk of failure. Suffice it to say that about 70% of camera malfunctions are due to lens defect, and in the overwhelming case, the cause of malfunctions is the human factor, i.e. dropped, stepped on, spilled liquid, rough handling, foreign matter entering the lens drive such as sand, etc. In Canon ixus xxx cameras, if a lens malfunction occurs, after turning on the camera, after a while, the message E18 or “lens error” appears on the display, after which the unit turns off ..

I hope it is clear that getting even the smallest grain of sand between the teeth of the lens zoom mechanism drive gear will cause it to jam, and minor mechanical impact will damage the teeth of the same gears or lens pins. in the event of a malfunction in the lens, when the mechanism drive cannot “drive in”. elimination algorithm if all parts are intact, carefully disassemble and clean, if necessary replace the failed parts. Sometimes it is easier to replace the entire lens, as some parts are simply impossible to find

Typical problems arising in the CF connector

Firstly, these are broken connector pins, secondly, they can be bent, and because of this, the memory card cannot be read. The appearance of a malfunction occurs due to improper installation of the flash drive. Symptoms of manifestation can be very diverse, for example: the digicam simply does not turn on, and most likely connector pins are closed, which triggers the protection of the camera. Due to closed contacts, complications can be more dangerous, for example, a voltage converter often crashes.Also, there were often cases when the camera works well without a memory card, but after its installation it does not turn on at all. The reason is also bent contact. The camera works, but does not detect the memory card. Most likely the reason is encrypted in the broken pin of the connector.

Repair of the flash in the camera

Attention, the voltage on the flash storage capacitor is about 300 volts, if handled carelessly, you can not only get an electric shock, but also easily irrevocably ditch the camera. Discharge the flash storage capacitor every time you turn on the power. The capacitor can be discharged through a 1-2kΩ resistor.

A digital camera without a flash is not very useful for work, and it makes no sense to use it in low light conditions. Therefore, the repair of cameras with such a malfunction, as a rule, does not raise questions among users. As for the practical side of the issue: often the repair process is complicated not so much by the lack of components, but by the lack of service documentation. Unfortunately, at present there is very little technical literature devoted to the device of photo flashes, a description of the principles of operation of their electronic circuits, despite the fact that there is great interest in the device of photo flashes and, moreover, in their repair, not only among the owners of cameras, but also , often, at the workers of camera repair shops, especially in the provinces. Let's consider the operation of the flash according to the principle diagram of a film camera in Fig. 1.

The blocking circuit of the flash generator is assembled on the Q303 transistor. At the moment of switching on, the transistor is open with a negative voltage supplied through the resistor R305, the winding of the transformer T301, the open transistor Q304. As a result, a current flows through winding I of the transformer, which induces a pulse of positive polarity in winding II. It turns off transistor Q303. The current in the winding I begins to decrease. The disappearing magnetic field induces a negative polarity pulse in winding II, which again leads to the opening of the transistor.

The process is repeated continuously. Pulses of different polarity induce current in the winding III of the transformer and, rectifying by diode D302, charge capacitors C303 to a voltage of 250 - 280 volts, C302 through resistors R308 R306. When the shutter button is pressed, the sync flash fires. A positive voltage is applied to the control electrode of the SR301 thyristor, opens it and closes the capacitor C302 to the case, causing its discharge and a sharp decrease in the current in the primary winding of the T302 transformer. The disappearing magnetic field induces a high-voltage pulse in the secondary winding, causing gas breakdown in the bulb of the XE301 flash lamp and, as a result, a bright short-term glow

Schematic diagram of the flash of a digital camera from Sony DSC - P52 The same diagram of the blocking generator Q503, T501, rectifier diode D502, storage capacitor C508. The role of the key on the SR301 thyristor is performed by the field-effect transistor Q506, etc.

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” on older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models.Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to help with those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Read also: DIY bosch gas stove repair

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

1. Camcorder Sony-CCD-TR670E. Zoom and focus do not work. The reason is the poor contact of the loop with the connector coming from the camera unit board to the focusing and zooming motors. Eliminated by disassembling the camcorder and re-docking of this connector.

2. Camcorder Panasonic-G-101. The cassette receiver does not close, the rack guides move back and forth, but not for the entire range of travel. According to the owner, before the final breakdown, the device turned off during recording and playback, sometimes it did not close. The reason is a dirty software gear, with the whole L.P.M. do not disassemble. It is enough to drip alcohol / gasoline into the program gear and turn it several times (of course, not with your hands).

3. Sony (video-8) Camcorder very often the monitor screen starts to glow brightly with a reverse beam path - the reason for the impingement of the deflection pulses in the video signal. It is necessary to evaporate the electrolyte through which the pulses go to the deflector (usually 80 microfarads), rinse the board under it with alcohol and solder it back with a mica pad.

4. Video camera SONY CCD-FX280E Handycam. Defect manifestation: Unable to load a cassette into the camera. (the cassette receiver does not close). What happens: the screw securing the monitor is loosened from the inside and sticking to the magnet of the video head motor, jamming it. It is checked by checking the free rotation of the video heads.

5. Camcorder SAMSUNG VP-U12. Chaotic white dots appear in the image when viewing recordings. On pause, they disappear. Search for a malfunction should be in the engine of the tonal. It should be dismantled, the capstan should be removed. A defect in the metal coating of the rotor, which peels off, rubs the insulation of the stator windings.The solution is as follows: the metal coating is completely removed from the rotor (including magnetized particles). Further lubrication and assembly in reverse order. So far, I have come across 2 devices with such a defect.

PS This defect is also found in JG video cameras.

6. SONY CCD-TR330. The problem is: (1) The cassette drawer is in the eject position and will not close. Manual removal of the loading mechanism to any position (for example, stop) with the subsequent supply of power to the camera brings it to mode (1). The malfunction is eliminated by soldering the SW switch pins on the flexible board.

7. SAMSUNG VP-H66 camcorder. The defect is exactly the same as described in paragraph (5.) of this page. I have sent a letter to the SAMSUNG representative with a request to answer:
1.) Who is the supplier of these motors?
2.) whether the above mentioned company will correct the “manufacturer's error”.
3.) Will all cameras with this defect be repaired free of charge? Regardless of whether the warranty period has ended or not.

The answer will be posted on this page.

A letter sent to the representative office of SAMSUNG.

In the process of repairing your company's products, in particular the SAMSUNG VP-H66 and SAMSUNG VP-U12 video cameras, I and my colleagues in different parts of our homeland came across a defect. This defect manifests itself as follows. When using the camera while shooting, horizontal stripes appear on the screen across the entire screen. Further, after continuing to use the cameras, they stop accepting the cassette. When disassembling the camera, it was found that the result of this defect is a gross violation of production processes. Namely: the rotor of the motor contains a magnet which, in turn, is covered with a layer of tool varnish, which deteriorates over time. This coating (varnish) is quite hard and over time wipes off the varnish layer on the motor windings. I think that the service dealerships are very well aware of this defect. This defect was also found in LG cameras. Most likely the engine supplier is the same company. I am officially protesting your company and asking you to answer my questions.

1.) Who is the supplier of these motors?
2.) whether SAMSUNG will correct the “manufacturer's error”.
3.) Will all cameras with this defect be repaired free of charge? Regardless of whether the warranty period has ended or not.

I will post a letter with your answer on my page.

8.) Camcorder JVC model GR-AX338. The defect is like a dirty software switch, but it's not about it, but about the CN02 connector into which the ribbon cable from this switch is inserted. The repair consists in soldering the connector.

9.) Samsung - Temporary malfunctions: stop during playback with complete shutdown, the cassette is loaded. BVG rotates, complete shutdown, etc. Clean, solder and tighten the internal contacts of the stabilizer board connector and the carrier board.

10.) If it is necessary to clean the contacts of the program switch in the camcorder without the hassle of disassembling it, the liquid KONTAKT PRF7-78 produced by TAEROSOL (Fin) is amazingly helpful. I inject it through a thin tube (complete with a cylinder) directly into the gap of the program. gears. Penetration, cleaning and lubricating properties are simply amazing. The ever-wheezing volume controls in domestic equipment begin to work like new.

Typical malfunctions of SONY camcorders.

At least once in our life, each of us breaks down a complex digital technique. So my family camera Canon A 460 has failed, and as always, at the most inopportune moment. The camera, of course, is not new, it was bought in 2008. All this time he served faithfully, never let down. Of course, it is outdated morally. Modern point-and-shoot cameras boast tens of megapixels and multiple optical zoom. But Canon A 460 suits me perfectly, takes good pictures, is able to perform acceptable macro photography.

In general, the malfunction manifested itself at one point, the photos began to turn out very white, as if canon a 460 flashing photo... And what is characteristic, horizontal stripes are visible. Here are some bad photos:

But the video was filmed, as before, without changes. I immediately noticed that at the moment the shutter button was pressed, there was no characteristic sound of the shutter curtains.

If you are faced with a similar malfunction, do not be upset, most likely it is to blame shutter train... We'll have to replace it with a new one - this is a typical malfunction. Although, to be honest, this activity is not for the faint of heart.

To get to the bowels of the lens, you need to disassemble the entire camera, which has small parts. In addition, we are dealing with optics that do not like dust. Therefore, you have to acquire patience and self-control.

Of course, you can buy a new lens and replace it entirely. But I could not find it cheaper than 800 rubles, although the shutter train is not so cheap, around 160 rubles. In general, I decided to replace the cable. I photographed the procedure for disassembling the camera on my phone, I apologize for the quality of the photos.

First, let's take out two AA batteries. Then we take out a three-volt battery, which is responsible for memory. We unscrew 5 bolts and do not forget about the sixth one, which is located under the protective plug of the USB connector:

Immediately after the cover is removed and access to the main board appears, you need to discharge the flash capacitor.

To discharge the capacitor, we use a low-power load, for example, a light bulb that we unscrew from the refrigerator:

Then we unsolder the wires to separate the board from the case:

We will carry out further disassembly of the Canon camera, based on the photographs that I found on the vastness of the worldwide network. True, I slightly simplified the disassembly, excluding the removal of the matrix, and also refused to dismantle the main tube from the lens.

The new shutter train looks like this:

We assemble the camera in the reverse order and preferably on the same day, so as not to forget anything. When assembling the lens, I would like to draw your attention to the moment when we will attach the optical video finder. It consists of four lenses, two of which are movable and they must move synchronously with the retractable tube.

It will not be possible to simply screw the video finder into place, because the movable lenses are in the initial position and are held by springs, so the lenses do not fall into the guide grooves on the tube. How can we get out of this difficult situation.

Some experts advise extending the lens. I did it easier. I just removed the metal cover from the video finder, which is held on by the latches:

Then we try to put it in place, while simultaneously moving each movable lens, trying to get into the guide groove of the tube. After we succeed, close the lid:

Then you should definitely make sure that the assembled lens is working properly. For this we will use one finger-type battery. By changing the polarity on the motor, we make sure that the lens moves out completely, moves without delay, we observe the closing of the protective shutters, we check the operability of the video finder:

If everything works fine, then I congratulate you, you have overcome the most difficult lens assembly operation. It remains to put the camera together.

This is how a broken camera shutter train looks like:

Hope this article helped with your DIY repair and you didn't have to look for a workshop to get your Canon A 460 repaired.

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Helping lovers is fraught with the killing of the carcass. And I love carcasses more than amateurs The most serious malfunctions are created by amateurs when they try to fix them themselves.