In detail: do-it-yourself ati video card repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Before starting this process, think carefully and assess your capabilities. Because in case of failure, you will most likely part with the video card forever. In addition, I disclaim any responsibility from myself for the fact that as a result of using this article, you ditch the card.
Okay, I wrote the standard excuses. Now I will please a little: I will not describe anything that has not been tested by me personally and does not give a positive effect.
What you need to have before starting work:
1) Your hands should not be shaking. It's pretty easy to check. To do this, take a sheet of paper, put the smallest of the available SMD capacitors or resistors on it, fix it and circle the outline with a pen. Then move it to the side a few centimeters and try to return it to its original position with tweezers. If you succeed, follow the next steps. If not, think twice about whether you should do it.
2) Heating plate. At the moment, I can only confirm the success on ceramic or ordinary electric stoves. Gas stoves can leave deposits.
3) A device for measuring temperatures up to 350 * C. Most modern multimeters support this function.
4) No-clean flux / BGA soldering flux. (I warn you right away that LTI-120 is not suitable in any form, although they often write that it does not require cleaning!).
5) A pair of metal rods / profiles / corners 2-3cm high and 12-15cm long. It is best that they are located not on the tile itself, but next to it.
 |
Video (click to play). |
6) Tweezers, 2-5ml medical syringe with a needle.
DIY video card repair.
Hello friends. In today's topic, we will consider an issue that sooner or later interests every user who is not used to keeping an eye on the cleanliness and cooling system of his computer. The question sounds like this: how to repair a video card actually manually.
How to monitor the cleanliness of the system unit and avoid stupid problems with overheating of chips can be found in the article “Why the computer is warming up.
As practice shows, and I have had it for at least 5 years, about 90 percent of breakdowns are due to poor-quality cooling, which leads to overheating of the chips.
In video cards, the main element is the video chip, which is usually located under the heatsink. In the screenshot below, number 1 shows the video chip of the Msi rx2600pro video card, and under the second is the heatsink removed from the chip.
Now I will describe how I carried out the repair of this particular video card under the influence of heating the chip using a soldering hair dryer. The breakage of this element was caused by the "blade" of the video chip, which caused vertical artifacts to appear all over the screen.
Do not forget to subscribe to free updates and you will always be aware of interesting cases from my practice.
This is just one of the breakdowns that occur with video cards and it is the most common.
Malfunctions of video cards are as follows.
* When the device is turned on, the picture is not displayed on the screen.
* Appearance of all kinds of color distortion.
* POST beeps about card initialization error.
* The appearance of vertical and / or horizontal "artifacts.
* All different picture display glitches under load on the chip.
* Braking of the picture during the game.
All of the above problems have different ways of solving, but in this article we will touch upon the "artifacts" that usually arise due to the "dump" of the chip itself or its memory.
By "dump" should be understood the process of breakage or burnout of the contact inside the chip or from its "seat". A break may occur if the computer is dropped and hit.Burnout occurs mainly due to the operation of chips at elevated temperatures, which in turn is caused by negligence in monitoring the state of cooling. The contacts also burn out due to incorrect power supply.
I am touching on the topic of repairing a video card, because, as I have already mentioned, I recently carried out repairs of this type.
A man approached me with a request to fix the breakdown of his video card. The breakdown, he said, was the appearance of strange vertical stripes across the computer screen.
Having accepted the equipment for repair, I began to fix the problem, but for a more detailed analysis of this situation with the application of video filming of all stages of the repair, I turned to a friend in a way that second hands would not interfere with me. By the way, my friend is a phone repairman and I think that from his practice, we will take something useful for further articles.
Let's start to repair the video card, which I divided into six stages and to each of which I will attach a video file with the work done.
Stage one: “Disassembly and cleaning.
I hope you already know that the video chip of a video card usually has heatsinks with passive or active cooling. In the first stage, we remove the cooling system from the chip. To do this, unscrew the 4 radiator mounting bolts. After we remove it to the side. Having unscrewed the bolts, the radiator remains either on the thermal paste adhered to the chip or, in some cases, on the latches passing through the textolite of the video card. We carry out cleaning around our patient - the chip with a toothbrush, having previously moistened it with alcohol.
Stage two: “Removing the thermal paste.
As mentioned earlier, in the system, the role of heat sink and filling the void between the heatsink and the chip is performed by the applied thermal paste, which over time either burns out completely or partially sticks. At this stage, we remove it, both from the chip and from the heatsink itself. Remove the sticky paste with an alcohol-coated napkin. I have adapted to doing this with a toothbrush. In general, friends, you yourself, having done the same work, will choose for yourself a familiar cleaning product in the future. So, having eliminated the remnants of the paste, we proceed to the third stage.
Stage three: “Fixing the video card. Flux application.
When the "patient" is ready to warm up, you need to secure it comfortably. The fastening in this case was carried out using the holder, which can be seen in the video below. Having fixed the card, we apply flux with a stick around the video chip, it is also called "soldering fat". We apply the flux without regret; we will eliminate the residues after the end of the procedure.
Stage four: “Warming up with a Lukey B52D soldering hair dryer.
We put our soldering hair dryer on 300 degrees to warm up. In general, every owner of a soldering station should know how his hairdryer heats up, whether the temperature readings correspond to real ones. Ideally, of course, it is better to carry out the entire heating process with an infrared soldering station - under its heating, you can bring the chip to a "floating state" which is very convenient for shrinking it to its seat. In the absence of such a station, we will use the Lukey B52D soldering hair dryer. Gradually we begin to warm up the chip by running a hairdryer along its edges in the area where the flux is applied. Noticing the boiling of the flux, we “shrink” the chip into place by pressing it, without stopping the heating process. In my case, pressing was done with tweezers. The whole warm-up process took us approximately three minutes. You can adjust the heating temperature yourself, the main thing is that the chip is brought to an almost floating state.
Stage five “We remove the remains of the flux and let it cool.
Having finished the work on "shrinking" the chip that we have warmed up to its place at the fifth stage, let the card cool down for a couple of minutes, and we can start to eliminate the remaining flux. If during the heating process you notice that somewhere there is no flux, then you can add it. But we add, without interrupting the process of repairing a video card with our own hands.
Stage six “Assembling the device.
The last, final stage of the video card repair, which was done by hand, has come.After warming up and shrinking the chip and removing excess flux, we can start installing the cooling system. By this time, I think your card has cooled down. Is not it? If not, then it's okay.
We take a high-quality thermal paste and apply it in an even layer on the video chip. Avoid getting the paste past the chip, and if you suddenly "missed" it is advisable to immediately remove it with paper or a rag. Install a radiator on top of the chip with the applied paste, fixing it with fixing screws.
All the guys. So we have learned how to repair a video card with our own hands when “artifacts appear.
Subscribe to the free mailing list and be always aware of the release of new articles, from which you can always "profit" with useful information. Ask your questions in the comments - I will answer everyone.
Do not forget to write comments on the article to me. Your opinion is very important.
These articles will be of interest to you.
The problem of connecting a router ... As easy as shelling pears.
What to do if it says “the web page is unavailable.
Hard drive repair at home. Hdd regenerator.
There is no image on the computer monitor. Video card repair.
Multimeter DT-830B. A brief instruction manual and how not to get into an “unpleasant” situation.
Have you ever experienced your graphics card stopped working? God grant, of course, that this never happens, but still! What to do, for example, if you hear that the computer is booting, but there is no image on the monitor (black screen)?
What we usually do in such cases: substitute a known working video card (or switch to integrated video) and make sure that the problems are with the graphics adapter. But what to do in this case? Can we provide video card repair ourselves?
The good news is yes: DIY video card repair is quite possible! The bad thing is that after such a repair there is no guarantee that the video card restored in this way will work for a long time. Also, the repair itself may end unsuccessfully if we do not follow certain rules. But let's talk about everything in order! 🙂
So, we have a non-working video card from Nvidia, the GeForce 9500 GT model. Like this:
What's the problem? The video card worked for a long time in harsh temperature conditions, which led to its overheating. As a result of this, a fairly typical (in such cases) thing happened: the "dump" of the BGA chip of the video card.
Don't be scared by the word “dump”, nothing has fallen off there 🙂 This is just how the people call the electrical contact of the BGA balls array with the printed circuit board of the card that occurs as a result of prolonged overheating. Usually, this phenomenon occurs as a result of the presence of a small section of cold soldering, which is subjected to prolonged and strong heating.
This is not to say that this is a 100% marriage of the manufacturer: there can be quite a lot of tin balls in the array and the violation (or oxidation) of the contact of even one of them can lead to a complete (or partial) loss of the card's performance. So overheating, be it a video card or a central processor, is a very unpleasant thing. Try to avoid it in every possible way!
And in this situation, we have no choice but to try to repair the video card with our own hands, on our own. So, first of all, we need to take care to remove all plastic plugs on the card, stickers (stickers) located on the back side from the card. Anything in the area of the graphics chip can melt.
Yes Yes! You heard right: to melt. After all, we will repair the video card by heating it and all the “unnecessary” must be removed, just for every fireman. Of course, perhaps nothing like this will happen, but just make it a habit - it will come in handy 🙂
We will also need to remove the fan and cooling system. We do this with whatever is more convenient for us. Personally, I use this screwdriver with interchangeable nozzles:
We unscrew the screws securing the fan, remove the metal cover and get the following picture:
As you can see, the cooling system requires thorough cleaning, and the fan itself needs preventive maintenance, since its efficiency has decreased due to lime adhered to the blades and dust crammed into the bearing.
The next step is to remove the GPU heatsink. It would seem: what is so difficult here? But, as one movie hero said in a film about various evil spirits: "There is a catch everywhere!" Here it lies in the fact that often (especially if the chip was operated in a severe temperature regime), when dry, the thermal paste tightly glues the crystal and the heatsink together.
It is categorically not recommended, in this case, to use heroic force and pull this matter upon yourself, or, as experience erroneously suggests, to pick something up! This can damage the crystal! There is a simpler and more elegant solution: we take a regular household hair dryer and slowly warm up the clutch area.
After a while (5-10 seconds), we begin to slightly shake the radiator from side to side, as in the photo above. Thermal paste, softening under the influence of temperature, will allow us to do this. Warming up this thing a little more, we can easily separate our radiator from the crystal:
Try as completely and as carefully as possible to clean both the "base" of the radiator and the crystal itself from the remnants of the old dried thermal paste. At the same time, try not to scratch the metal surface of the radiator (this will reduce its heat transfer coefficient). Do not scrape, it is better to warm up separately and wipe off the old paste.
With the crystal it is also as careful as possible: if it was not possible to remove some part of the paste (like mine, for example), then it is better to leave it. Anything that is erased - be sure to delete! Otherwise, the thermal paste, under the influence of temperature, will, as they say, “bake” and then it will be very difficult to remove it without damaging (chipping) the core itself.
Before we start repairing a video card with our own hands, let's take a closer look at the graphics chip.
Why did I highlight some of the areas in the photo above? See, the larger area is the graphics card chip itself, and the smaller area is the GPU die (GPU - graphics processing unit). Along the perimeter of the crystal, we see a white sealant (compound) that performs several functions: protects the crystal from dust getting under it and fixes it to the substrate.
What is the "trick" here and why repairing a video card with your own hands can end unsuccessfully, no matter what efforts we make? The area (array) of BGA solder balls is not only between the chip itself and the PCB textolite, but also between the crystal and the substrate graphics card!
Do you feel where I'm going? The harsh reality is that we can repair the video card ourselves (if we are still lucky) only if there is a violation of the contacts of the balls directly between the PCB and the substrate. If the “dump” occurred under the crystal, then we can hardly do anything about it. Even such an operation as reballing (complete replacement of an array of balls using a stencil) will not save in this case, since this procedure is performed only for the “bottom” of the entire chip, but not for the crystal!
So, I hope we have learned the necessary minimum of theory? Moving on! To repair a video card at home, we need a flux and a disposable syringe. I use the usual GFR (alcohol-canin), which is called “GFR-flux”.
We collect the substance in a syringe (about one cube). If it remains, it will be possible to drain back.
Note: You can use any other inactive (ideally neutral) flux. For example, "F1" or "F3". The original LTI-120 is also suitable. Although, with LTI, not everything is so simple: leave it as a last resort 🙂
We carefully apply the tip of the needle to the edge of the substrate, tilting it so that the flux we squeeze out of the syringe is under the chip. After pumping it, if necessary, tilt the card slightly so that it spreads well between the balls.Ideally, we want to achieve an effect where the liquid appears a little from all sides.
Advice: after use, rinse the syringe (just take several times of water from the tap and squeeze out through the needle). If this is not done, the rosin in the needle will dry out and clog it. It will take a long time to clean or throw away.
Now we can be sure that when heated, the flux will fulfill its function. Why fluxes are needed, what they are and how to use them correctly, we considered in a separate article, so we will not repeat ourselves.
After that, we can proceed directly to the repair of the video card with our own hands! To do this, we place it in such a way that we have free access to the GPU from above and below and, using a soldering station, we begin to heat the substrate around the perimeter.
Note: under no circumstances heat the crystal itself! It can fail!
How I do it, I’d better show you in video format, since you cannot clearly illustrate with photographs alone.
Now let's comment on this video a little. When you warm up the video card from below (under the chip), try to keep the hair dryer perpendicular to the plane of the PCB, otherwise I didn't manage to shoot and warm it at the same time. Also, be careful not to flare the small card components located on the back side (they can be easily shifted, given the heated solder underneath).
In the video above, I did not show the whole procedure, as you understand. The bottom must be heated long enough (3-5 minutes) so that the smoke from the flux, which you may have noticed, began to rise quite intensively above the board (this is evidence that the board has warmed up well). The first stage will be “boiling” and bubbling of the flux - this is normal.
Also, do not hesitate to warm up the place under the crystal itself (you can do this through the board). The main thing: do not hold the hair dryer in one place - smoothly move it over the area (to exclude places of local overheating of the surface). Keep the funnel of the hair dryer at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the surface to be treated. I personally set the air flow to an average value, the temperature that the soldering station shows at the same time is 420-450 degrees Celsius. The second value is the limit for my "Ya Xun 880D".
The temperature spread here is due to the fact that its sensor itself is located directly in the handle of the hot air gun, and the air temperature at the outlet of the hot air gun is already different (lower). Plus, here you can add the inevitable heat loss due to the ability to absorb and dissipate heat by the treated surface itself, the temperature in the room, the proximity of the hair dryer to the heated area, the power of the air flow, etc. That is why only empirically it will be possible to select the exact value of the operating temperature (thermal profile) for a particular soldering station.
To what state should you warm up? Here, again, there are indirect signs by which we can navigate. The whole procedure takes approximately 5-8 minutes. The spread of time is due to the factors listed above. It also depends on the quality of the flux used, the type of solder from which the BGA array is made on a substrate (lead or lead-free). In the process of strong heating, the flux should evaporate (smoke) fairly decently.
Another important marker is the visual detection of the melting of the solder on the elements located on the chip around the die (usually a series of small SMD capacitors). When the solder "shines" on them, it is a sure sign that the balls of the substrate have reached their melting point, which is exactly what we need! For greater confidence, you can take tweezers in your free hand and try to slightly move the chip itself: gently push it (literally by a millimeter) to the side and you will see how it “wobbles” and, due to the forces of surface tension of the molten balls from below, will snap into place. After that, the heating can be safely stopped!
Note: some craftsmen, instead of a station, use a regular building hair dryer or repair the video card with their own hands, “baking” it in a household oven, after wrapping it in foil! Frankly, I am not a fan of such radical methods of "repair", although (if the guys succeed in everything), then why not? 🙂
During the heating procedure, you can monitor the surface temperature with a thermocouple or pyrometer (infrared thermometer). This will help in the future to better navigate in the selection of the correct thermoprofile.
Note: when cooling the video card (and any other element), do not use forced airflow - fan, etc. Let the part cool naturally, no need to "fit" it. We don't need the microcircuit to receive a thermal shock (shock), do we?
This is how you repair a video card with your own hands! Whether they were successful or not, we have yet to verify. To do this, we need to do a few mandatory things. Out of habit, I clean (where possible) the board from the flux residues. In this case, it is the rosin remaining after the evaporation of the alcoholic component. The rosin is neutral (it does not interact with the components of the board) and, in theory, it may not be necessary to wash it off, but, for the sake of order, let's go over it thoroughly with a brush and a cleaner.
We washed more or less (the rosin dissolved), let it dry and apply fresh thermal paste to the crystal (“KPT”, “AlSil” or “Zalman” - I respect):
Now we put the whole "constructor" back together (we attach the heatsink, fasten the cooler, connect it to the connector on the board).
Before installing the card into the system unit, let's go (just in case) with an elastic band over the contacts of the Pci Express connector and that's it - can you install a component on the motherboard to check what we've got?
But it turned out, as we can see, everything is not even bad. There is an image on the monitor! Do-it-yourself video card repair is possible! Of course, to be completely sure, we need to install the operating system (it was not at hand), install the video card driver and, ideally, run some kind of stress test for stability, which will show us, in the end, we managed to repair the video card ourselves or No?
Note: The free and easy-to-use tool "FurMark" can work very well for this test.
Otherwise anything can happen: the video card seems to work, but the driver is not installed or does not pass the stability test. Also, as you understand, we cannot give any guarantee for this type of "repair" and we do not know how long the device will work? But, as they say, on the other hand, we “pumped over the skill” of repairing video cards at home, and the client received a temporarily working computer. We did what we could, and then there will be what should happen!
As always, I am waiting for your comments, feedback, constructive criticism below under the article 🙂
After connecting the video card, the computer beeps for its absence. In other words, the mother's BIOS does not see the video's BIOS at the correct addresses. With modern vidyahs, this usually happens for three reasons:
Firstly, the most frequent breakdown is dc-dc converters (pulse converters), because the GPU is powered by a volt and a half, memory from one and a half to two, and only 3.3V, 5V and 12V come to the AGP connector from the motherboard. Of the most common faults, these are rotten mosfets (power field-effect transistors) APM3055L (3054) and PWMs of the same anpek (marking APWxxxx). Sometimes these parts outwardly look serviceable and even produce the required volts, but here you need an oscilloscope, because the current must not only be, it must also be clean. It is worth noting that manufacturers (mainly on video cards up to GeForce2) sometimes install linear stabilizers - wagon variants. Usually datasheets for everything power are easily found on the Internet.
The second reason is the video card BIOS meeting. As a rule, this happens after crooked experimental overclockers. If in the first case you need a soldering iron and parts, then here you can simply boot by inserting a sick AGP vidyah at the same time as a healthy PCI and flash the BIOS back.At the same time, when loading Windows, sometimes they even put firewood on the patient and even a picture appears. (For diagnostics, the BIOS chip of a video card can be removed altogether.) Firmware and bios are different for different cards and different generations of cards, look in the same place, in the internet: diamond and overclockers will help with this. A large collection of different bios on the website of the mvktech or ATI BIOS Collection. Here's how to flash the Radeon's. Here's how to flash nVidia cards. Despite the simplicity of this advice, I strongly recommend starting from the first, because in the case of a noisy (by current) or malfunctioning power supply, the bios will recover for a couple of days, which can be fatal for the GPU.
On the part of fairly modern vivid vividness of the GPU crystal, it is possible to determine by a simple call of resistance in relation to the case (ground, Vss), if the device shows zero, it is definitely a corpse, if 3-10 Ohm, then there is still a sense of tinkering.
Well, and the third, unfortunately, is also a very common malfunction - this is a violation of the BGA mounting, that is, the destruction of the ball contacts under the GPU or memory. I am flying with an electric stove, because I am not rich and I can only dream of a mounting stove. At home (and without preliminary training) I strongly do not recommend contacting, because not only will you finish a half-dead video card, but you will also get burns. And someone will manage to arrange a fire.
Sometimes they fall apart. We check the generation with the oscillator.
Finally, we should mention the chipped SMD elements. Usually such a nuisance occurs when the hard drive is unsuccessfully removed in a narrow ill-conceived case. To begin with, you need to carefully examine the whole vidyahu and preferably with a magnifying glass. It is convenient to compare suspicious places with a similar device (if available).
Doesn't let mom turn on the power
Definitely, one of the feeders (for GPU or memory) has broken through and it is short on mass.
More and more often there are video cards (series GF6xxx and older), with which the motherboard is silent as dead. The postmap can show:
– 1D - On AwardBIOS v6.0, in addition to the initial configuration of the Power Management system using the 1Dh code, the device table is also built in the 0E000h segment, connected to SMBus (SMB_DEVID_TABLE). And there is such a comment (I give it freely in translation from English) that if there is a "hang" on the 1Dh code, then this is for the simple reason that SMB_DEVID_TABLE is incorrect (?).
– 0d. 25 - Albatron KX600 (0d - initialization of VideoBIOS, 25 - PCI resources are distributed), The same will be done on Intel chipsets ../../ x.
– C1 on nForce (a la "we don't see the memory", which is understandable, unlike all chipsets, nForce has a PCI Memory Controller and in case of problems with PCI, memory initialization can be difficult).
1. Blade of GPU or bridges HSI or Rialto (there can also be broken roads, SMD jumpers and SMD chokes). Products of the company are especially fatal Palit daytona, which have a common heatsink on the GPU and HSI. As a result, neither one nor the other is really cooled, and the former usually does not withstand the bullying just HSI. The same goes for Radeon, where Rialto usually has no radiator at all, and even overlaps with the GPU.
2. The lack of power supply to the bridge is similar to (Sparkle often suffers from this) or the HSI bridge is chipped. Gigabyte The GV-N66256DP has a generic sore - the L14 throttle.
3. Demolished conduits on PCI-E lines are also useful to look at.
Dots and streaks in the image are also usually the result of a violation of the BGA editing.
“Quadruple vertical white dotted stripes” usually directly indicate the lack of communication on one (although perhaps more - the picture must be seen) data lines between the GPU and RAM. The reasons may be different - non-waste memory, non-waste GPU, chips on the GPU, broken memory. The crossing bridge (realto) is not capable of this, it is not in his diocese.
The death of individual memory microcircuits is also not excluded. It is quite difficult to calculate the dead m / s of memory, and if it does not heat up, then only by brute force. Although, as practice shows, the “wet finger” method gives a fairly large percentage of accuracy. The meaning is simple: with a wet finger we touch the case of the memory microcircuit or resistor and capacitor SMD assemblies near (and / or under) the memory microcircuit. If stripes and artifacts begin to change color or disappear - here he is a client for soldering or subsequent replacement.
|
Video (click to play). |
A possible malfunction of the GPU itself - the conveyor burned out. Replacing the GPU is rather complicated, so sometimes it makes sense to use a program like “RivaTuner” or “ATI Tray Tool” to revive it.First, reduce the frequencies, then alternately switch the processor pipelines: all sorts of shader, vertex, pixel, vertex, whatever else will be developed there. Maybe you're lucky, and not all of them burned out. After that, it remains to take the BIOS editor, add new frequencies or a combination of pipelines to the native BIOS and fill it with the video card. Selection of utilities. Another collection of utilities.
Noisy faulty DC-DC converters (primarily memory, but no one excludes the GPU power supply either) can cause similar symptoms, check with an oscilloscope. Usually keys (mosfets) shit sometimes PWMs.
If the card gives out colored garbage in the form of squares and there is no image (like on Dandy with a poorly inserted cartridge), first of all we look at the memory power supply.
If some color has disappeared, and the card has two outputs, then in addition to the channel strapping, it is also worth checking the multiplexer. There was a very indicative case: he treated Leadtek GeForce 6800 Ultra, with two DVIs, the red is almost gone. I looked, at the second output, the picture is in order, I start to call the piping of the red channel at the first exit - I don’t understand what it is, all the piping is in order, but the red one rings to the ground of about 7 ohms. I'm starting to figure out what this could mean - the video processor is in order (judging by the second output), the strapping is also in order, so what's stopping me from living? And then I remember that on any single-processor video card with two outputs (it does not matter, SVGA / SVGA, SVGA / DVI or DVI / DVI) there is a multiplexer that alternates the picture for each of the outputs from the GPU + horizontal, I search and find some then 16-legged from the 3257 series, I unsolder - indeed, one of the multiplexing lines is punched to the ground; picked up an analogue from some corpse, planted it - it all worked.
This is true if the board uses an intermediate multiplexer / switch in the GPU VGA-port circuit, but if it is not there. Actually, the diagnosis itself in the absence of one or two colors is not difficult. RGB pins (R-Red, G-green, B-blue) on the connector are called for the presence of 75 ohms.
- If the resistance is not underestimated or overestimated (and this happens), call and solder the 75 Ohm matching resistor on the corresponding channel and check the p-n junction of the final stage of this GPU channel. Usually it is in a cliff and this is not a ball dump, it is the GPU that is dead. Very rarely, a channel choke connected in series goes into an open circuit.
- If the resistance is less than 75 Ohm, we release the channel from the elements, turn it on in parallel and understand that the strapping has nothing to do with it (or with anything).
From practice: piping elements rarely fail: again, the GPU sags through the channel. Sometimes terminating resistors are not installed, then it's even easier.
Works but hangs, black screen
Sometimes black screens are stable and occurring all the time, sometimes it takes a long time to be detected. Be that as it may - arises in complex 3D applications, usually games. Details.
Anti-aliasing and anisotropy
Some software features can reduce the likelihood of black screens. The first step is to enable vsync in the driver settings. Second: in Windows 98 BS occurs much less often than in Windows 2000. Anti-aliasing and anisotropy increase the likelihood of BS appearing.
It is possible that newer BIOS versions for the GW6800le reduce the likelihood of this occurrence. I haven't tested it myself. It looks like the matter is in the changed memory timings.
Replace or add capacitors.
Memory strap modification
Memory stress affects.A lower voltage, for example 2.72 V -> 2.68 can help clean up. After adding / replacing capacitors, you can slightly raise the spring.
Last edited by snamper on 06 Dec 2016 17:47, edited 1 time in total.
snamper
What is the percentage of quacking BIOS or quartz?
According to my estimates:
2-3% BIOS quartz, etc.
10% food or memory
5% demolished something when inserted / removed
the rest are chips.
And here you will drive an empty car with diagnostics, for which very few people agree to pay.
_________________
Laptop repair in Yekaterinburg. Even after the “masters”.
tel (343) 237-37-37
A probis probari, ab improbis improbari aequa laus est.
And what confuses you with my logic? There is no voltage - take measurements of the load resistance, if normal. -check the variable.
Not to fix my boards, but to provide a basis for repairs to people like me (my boards are the basis for my experiments and training).
For laptop repair, we created a “start conditions” punch line viewtopic.php? P = 62203 # p62203
and it became easier for everyone!
So I want to understand how the video card starts.
You just did not read the thread on repairing video cards and do not know what advice they give and in what sequence.
P / S how to get around the 1 message per hour limit?
Well Duc, if you doubt their integrity, where can you go, you have to check.
Another thing is that they rarely come across.
And I agree with the payment for diagnostics. It's not so simple with her.
It all depends on the experience of the master.
if there is no short circuit at 12V (point 2), then nothing burns out! There were cards whose GPU power resistance was 0.1 Ohm and everything worked, and all because the shim did not “discharge” the shutter of the lower shoulder when turned off - such a feature
snamper
and what did I write?
I read the thread for repairing video cards of this forum and in some topics they first advised to warm it up, and then only advised to try it on, so I wrote that.
have ideas formulate better!
and instead of persecuting a person who wants to learn, you can give a couple of practical advice. And then you don't have to be surprised at the boards buried in the trash. (It doesn't matter laptop or desktop)
P / s I thought at least something useful here can be learned, but here's how - everyone is so smart and important 
and never pissing into diapers.
I can imagine how the feeders work, but I want to understand how the video card works as a whole, but there is no information 🙁
Unfortunately, I was born without understanding the interaction of GPU-RAM-PCI-E
inattentive I did not notice a similar theme viewtopic.php? f = 181 & t = 11846
but in vain - I would not create my own.
following the opinion of the majority, a non-working video card has three ways
1.Lie on a shelf and get dusty (immediately or after a while in the trash)
2. Warm-up (all even non-working PWMs and transistors heat up)
3.Humblers-breeders (working bitch is painted)
the owner of a productive video card has three options
1. Warm-ups will fix everything (if not, then it's a GPU or a microcrack)
2.Purchase used (from $ 80 for pretop 2013 and you can run into a heated one)
3.Purchase a new one (from $ 150)
there is still an option to use the built-in video or buy a new office video card for $ 45 - but this is an option for users like “the processor is buzzing but does not show, fix it” (in this case, everything should be fast and, most importantly, cheap)
and I have three options
1) quit everything and work as a janitor in a rich country
2.Block repair without stress for the brain
3. Read, measure and solder until something works out
It's a delusion. This is not at all why, but because 70% themselves do not know what, how and why. Unfortunately, many craftsmen and craftsmen are only in words and are able to solve only typical problems described more than once.
Self-study and only self-study will help you.
Today we are going to repair a broken video card, which either does not work at all, or works, but artifacts are displayed with a screen resolution of 640 by 480 pixels. Friends, the method described below is not standard, since we will “cook” the video card in the oven, but it is effective, as practice shows. Many users have managed to revive their video cards using a simple oven.Let's consider all the subtleties of the preparation of this “dish”.
Let me emphasize that I recommend using this method when, as they say, there is nothing to lose. After resuscitation, the video card may not work at all, so you just need to deal with it. It is difficult to say about the life of a video card after repair in this way, since there are a huge number of nuances. For someone the card worked for a week, and for someone a year after resuscitation. Well, if you have made up your mind, let's get started!
These are the artifacts I had:
What we need:
- in fact, the patient himself is a video card. Before we "cure" it, we need to make sure the video card is malfunctioning. If the video card is faulty, then: it heats up like a hellish monster, all sorts of multi-colored artifacts are displayed, the screen resolution does not change (only 640x480 pixels), no game can be launched, the name of the video card is not displayed in the device manager, or there is no image at all when starting the PC ... An accurate diagnosis can be made at any service center.
- electric or gas oven. There are ways to heat the video card with other devices: a building hair dryer, blowtorch, all kinds of burners, etc. However, using a simple oven is the best option, since everyone has a stove for cooking.
- aluminum foil, which needs very little. Many people do not use this ingredient, based on the fact that foil is useless in this case. Personally, I used, so this component is present in my article. Decide for yourself whether or not to use foil.
- thermal paste, pliers, screwdriver, paper clip, etc.
- clock or timer to control time.
All that we need has been prepared, now let's talk a little about the theory. Why heat a video card and what will it give? It's very simple, friends. With the help of heating, we will re-solder all the details of the video card. If the cause of the breakdown was damage to the integrity of the track-contacts, then when heated, they are likely to recover.
So let's get started!
We pull out our video card from the system unit. We examine carefully and remove everything from it that can deteriorate at high temperatures (radiator, thermal paste, stickers, jumpers). If you have a soldering iron and know how to own it, then you can evaporate the capacitors.
To use foil or not? If you have evaporated the condensers, you can put the foil aside. In another case, it is better to wrap the capacitors with foil, that is, shield them. However, not everyone considers this process to be shielding, some are sure that in this situation the capacitor inside will be even hotter. Wrap in foil or not - decide for yourself.
A couple of nuances about the oven. We need to heat our part a little, since any microcircuit does not like sudden temperature changes. Let's set the oven temperature to 210-220 degrees. Put the video card on a baking sheet or wire rack and turn on the oven.
Place foil or baking paper under the video card in advance. We check in for about 20 minutes and wait. You can watch some program on TV while
When 20 minutes have passed, turn off the gas or light, depending on your oven and, without pulling out the video card, wait until the temperature drops. We carefully take out the video card and look at its condition. I did not see any damage on my video card and it is good. The capacitors are not swollen, and this is also encouraging.
If you overexpose the video card or increase the degrees in the middle of the oven, then the sad completion of its repair may also happen:
We install all the details of the video card in reverse order. We apply thermal paste to the video processor and install a heatsink, if there is a cooler, do not forget to connect its plug to the board socket. When the video card is ready, we install it back into the system unit, pressing it firmly against the motherboard.
The crucial moment has come: we turn on the computer. To be honest, I didn't believe in the resurrection of my card, but it worked again!
For about a week, the video card has been working, and there are no signs of a malfunction yet. Here is such a recipe, my friends.
