DIY vortex pump repair

In detail: do-it-yourself vortex pump repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.

Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.

The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.

It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.

Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.

The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.

Video (click to play).

Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.

The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.

As you can see, the device of the drainage pump is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.

The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.

Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.

If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise.The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).

It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.

Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.

Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:

lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.

These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.

Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.

For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.

Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.

Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.

There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.

Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.

If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.

The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.

It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.

A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block.Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.

The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.

The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:

Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.
The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.
The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.

The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and chips.

When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.

You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:

Disruption to the electricity supply due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, proceed as described above.
The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.
Seized bearing... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.
The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.
The float switch has broken. To check its performance, you need to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.

If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.

When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.

A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.

Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris.In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.

If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding

When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked with a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.

Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burnt-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.

As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.

At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.

Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.

Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:

Features of Pedrollo pump repair:

How to Repair the Whirlwind Sump Pump:

Since there are models of pumping equipment from different manufacturers on sale that differ in strength and design features, the repair and operation of such devices should be carried out taking into account the model. Since as a downhole unit you could have chosen not "Water cannon" or "Whirlwind", but a model of another brand, we decided to list the weaknesses of the most common pumping products, as well as the features of their repair:

Most Grundfos models have special thermal insulation for the engine and built-in valves. Therefore, sometimes it is necessary to change the thermal insulation of the motor. This work can only be done by a professional.
Jileks brand pumps often encounter fluid leakage from the electric motor. For repair it is necessary to replace the fluid with a similar product. This can be done only in a special service center.
The most popular is the domestic pump "Malysh". Although the price of service repair is quite acceptable, it is not difficult to repair this device with your own hands. A common problem is that the unit makes a lot of noise after turning on, but does not pump water. This usually happens due to a rupture of the central axis on which the membrane and anchor are installed. Usually, disassembling the unit will quickly identify the problem. The axle needs to be replaced. You can find out more about the repair of the Malysh pump from the proposed video:

The downhole pump "Vodoley" quite often overheats during operation. This is especially true for units installed in shallow wells. However, since the repair of such equipment can be about half of its cost, then if an inexpensive pump breaks down, it is easier to buy a new device.

Pumps "Vodojet" and "Whirlwind" are a fairly reliable technique that, if used correctly, can serve for a long time without breakdowns. If not properly operated, the units can become clogged with silt and sand. For repairs, you will need to change the pumping part.

Pumping equipment "Rucheyok" is also famous for its ability to overheat. And this despite the design in compliance with European standards. According to the manufacturer's instructions, the device can work without stopping for 7 hours, but in practice this will cause overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to give the pump a break after 2-3 hours of operation.

As for Vodomet pumps or units of other brands, often the reasons for breakdowns can be:

silting of the impeller;
break in the supply cable;
failure of the rotor or stator.

To diagnose the problem with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

To begin with, the unit must be removed from the well and performed for a test run. If the shaft rotates, the problem is with the impeller. It must be cleaned of silt and the unit can be assembled and operated further.
If the "Water cannon" pump does not even turn on during the test run, then first you need to check the power cable with a tester. To do this, check the voltage at the terminals of the engine compartment. If it is, then the cable is intact. Otherwise, you will have to replace it with a new cable.
If, when diagnosing a borehole pump, it turns out that everything is in order with the cable, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the electric motor. In this case, the product will have to be disassembled all the way to the engine compartment, remove the stator or rotor and rewind the winding.

To repair any pumping equipment with your own hands, you need to learn how to disassemble it. We will consider how to do this using the example of the "Water cannon" pump. Disassembly is performed in the following sequence:

Unscrew the perforated cylinder at the inlet pipe. This is a coarse filter that protects the product from sand and silting.
Next, all the washers, discs and "glasses" are dismantled from the shaft on the engine of the pump unit with their own hands. To make it easier for you to put the removed products back in the desired order, lay them side by side in the order in which you remove them.

It is important to know: the impeller consists of 16 removable parts, not counting the same anti-friction washers. Therefore, it is very important to follow the sequence of removal and reinstallation of all elements.

After that, it is necessary to dismantle the engine retaining ring from the "Vodojet" borehole pump. This part covers the engine compartment cover. To do this, you need to use a mallet. With the blow of this tool, we move the engine down, after that we pull the cord and return it back. After such manipulations, the O-ring will move. After that, the retaining ring is shifted with a screwdriver towards the body. As a result, the stopper will skew and it will be easy to remove it.
Next, we disconnect the wiring, open the engine compartment cover. After that, using a mallet and a screwdriver, you can remove the motor from the case.

As a result of such disassembly, the impeller and all its constituent elements can be easily washed and cleaned. The engine can be taken for diagnosis and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning and repairing, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most pumping products from different brands often face the same problems. We will list the most common ones and indicate what needs to be done to troubleshoot the problem:

Video instruction for the repair of the Vortex borehole pump:

The centrifugal pump is one of the most reliable devices used for pumping liquid.

It also features high efficiency and minimal ripple.

However, even such a pump can break, even if it is used correctly. If the normal operation of the liquid pumping system is disrupted, you need to know that the reason for this should not always be sought in the pump. Its verification should be undertaken only after excluding other possible reasons.

In order for malfunctions to begin to arise as late as possible, you should adhere to the rules for operating the equipment:

Before turning on the unit, fill its entire working container with liquid.
Do not allow the suction port, protective screens and pump impeller to become clogged. For this purpose, a coarse filter is installed in front of the device.
Avoid overloading the motor by limiting the fluid supply using a special valve that is placed on the outlet pipe.
Make sure that the shafts of the water pumps rotate in the correct direction.
Do not allow the suction lift to exceed the permissible level.
The suction pipe should have as few insertions and bends as possible, its inner diameter should be as large as possible and its length should be as short as possible.
If the length of the suction line is long, then it should be laid with a slope towards the place where the liquid is pumped. If it is impossible to ensure a slope, the pump is installed at the highest point of the territory.
In the case of pumping any gas mixtures, the system must also include a vacuum pump.

Stop valves are installed on the discharge pipe, which regulate the supply force and ensure that the pump is disconnected from the pipeline during repairs.

The loosening of the fasteners first causes vibration and noise, gradually leading to malfunctions, and even complete destruction of the unit parts.

Do not allow the centrifugal pump to idle, as it will overheat and damage the engine.

If no external factors have a harmful effect on the pump, and it does not work correctly, or does not work at all, you should proceed to a thorough check of it.

The most common problem is the wear of the oil seals.

There are a number of reasons that speed up this process:

Uneven shaft movement, especially with frequent runout.
Unit cover bolts too tight. Best of all, glands cope with the task of sealing, if their moisture is sufficient, as can be judged by the seepage of liquid droplets through the packing.
Overheating of the engine.
The repair technology has been violated, for example, not all O-rings have been replaced.

In addition to problems with oil seals, pump breakdowns occur due to insufficient accurate centering of the housing and the power unit. In this case, both the oil seals and the bearings are destroyed, leading to the failure of the unit, and such problems are solved only by overhaul.

Lack of proper maintenance of bearings (their regular lubrication) can also pose a threat.

Read the article on self-priming centrifugal pumps for water here.

Centrifugal pump device. (click to enlarge) Such a unit as a centrifugal pump, even in its simplest version, has a rather complex device.

Therefore, to repair it, you will need knowledge, experience and certain skills.

Here are the basic steps for a pump repair:

disassembly and inspection of the unit;
measurement of seal clearances and monitoring of the rotor condition;
installation of new bearings to replace old ones;
control of the geometry of the necks of the shaft. In case of revealing their defects, the shaft is machined and polished;
correction of detected defects;
measurement of the geometry of the case.

This is a routine maintenance and should be done every 4,500 hours of use.

But every 26,000 hours of use of the unit, it requires more complex repairs, during which:

replacement of the working shaft and wheel;
change of body seal rings, bushings, both spacer and clamping;
sometimes the replacement of sections is complete, in sectional units;
surfacing and boring of landings in the body;
hydraulic tests of the unit.

When doing repair work with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the most difficult thing will be:

disassemble the bearings;
remove the liners;
remove the half-coupling. To do this, you will need to use a special puller that comes with the pump;
dismantle the unloading disc of the hydropath;
remove the pressure flange.

When removing the impellers, it is important not to cause them to jam, removal is carried out in turn with each section. If this operation is difficult, but the wheel should be slightly warmed up. It is advisable not to remove the guides from the sections.

A comparison of vortex and centrifugal pumps is discussed in this article.

After identifying all the parts that have become unusable, you can proceed to another difficult task - assembling the pump.

During its implementation, you will have to perform rather delicate work:

check the compliance of new parts with those that were previously and the drawings available in the instructions;
to customize spare parts to the places of their installation;
grind and grind the surfaces on which the parts are planted;
tighten all screw fasteners evenly, using a torque wrench, observing the tightening torque exactly;
assemble the impeller with exact observance of the axial clearance, directly on the shaft;
when installing the unloading disc, observe the perpendicularity of its front side, avoiding an error greater than 0.02 mm.

It should be noted that if the impeller or housing is destroyed, they should not be welded, since this is unreliable and this is not done even in a factory.

Most often, the following works are performed at home: