DIY vintage audio repair

In detail: DIY repair of vintage audio equipment from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Grigoriy13 "22 Dec 2011, 12:10

Ilya Shlyakhov "22 Dec 2011, 12:19

mvv "22 Dec 2011, 23:05

Grigoriy13 "22 Dec 2011, 23:24

Yuri s »23 Dec 2011, 00:01

Ilya Shlyakhov »23 Dec 2011, 11:41

Grigoriy13 23 Dec 2011, 11:54

Ilya Shlyakhov 23 Dec 2011, 12:17

Grigoriy13 23 Dec 2011, 12:26

Grigoriy13 23 Dec 2011, 12:35

Ilya Shlyakhov 23 Dec 2011, 12:51

Grigoriy13 23 Dec 2011, 12:58

Ilya Shlyakhov "23 Dec 2011, 13:12

Grigoriy13 "23 Dec 2011, 13:19

Grigoriy13 23 Dec 2011, 13:33

Fisha "24 Dec 2011, 10:12

Etlik "24 Dec 2011, 12:23

mvv »16 Jan 2012, 17:47

I could not find a more suitable branch.

Tell me p-hundred, who knows how to lower the input sensitivity of Quad 405.2.
Apparently you need to replace R1, R3?

Yuri s »16 Jan 2012, 18:38

mvv »16 Jan 2012, 18:44

Navi »16 Jan 2012, 18:46

Grigoriy13 »24 Jan 2012, 03:49

Konica »24 Jan 2012, 09:33

Grigoriy13 »24 Jan 2012, 09:39

Grigoriy13 03 Feb 2012, 19:48

This topic was created by me due to many questions about the repair of vintage equipment, mainly amplifiers and receivers, I would like to get help from people who know what vintage is not by hearsay!
The topic was created for those who would like to reanimate the legendary amplifiers on their own that they no longer produce and are unlikely to ever produce, there are many people who do not have the opportunity to provide their equipment with proper service for a number of different reasons, but have a desire and some idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe repair ...

I would like to start my theme with the legendary amplifier:
Technics SU-8099:
The amplifier was bought for $ 350 as working, in good cosmetic condition, (in my opinion, 4-), but with minor defects in operation, more precisely, switching to via tone mode turns off the signal and the amplifier becomes silent, which is the reason one can only guess. starting with a banal dirty contact and ending with the destruction of the contact group or the lack of a signal to the equalizer board.

Video (click to play).

I would like to hear the opinion of the former or current owners of this amplifier, as well as what other preventive maintenance is needed for correct operation in order to fully hear the inherent potential!

———- Message added 04:35 ———- Previous message was 03:52 ———-

According to the service manual, I checked the power amplifier currents and the power transistor currents, the preamplifier of both channels should be zero, with 30 mv transistors, the zero on the right channel is not quite stable, it can run up chaotically, and then in the minus, there is a possibility of damage and overwork trimmer transistor, but there may be another problem.
30 mv on both channels keeps stable

Hello. I offer my services for the repair, adjustment, as well as the prevention and restoration of the vintage "RETRO" (Japanese, German, English, as well as Soviet) audio equipment.
I have been engaged in activities in this area for many years, I want to note that the most important distinguishing feature of my work is that I perform any manipulations with the devices exclusively "jewelry" with high quality, when examining the device after repair or prevention of the ones I have made, there are simply no, everything shines beautifully and glitters!

Below I will list the main types and types of work:

1. Repair of power amplifiers (terminal, pre-amplifiers, mono units), tuners (radio receivers), record players (vinyl), graphic and parametric analog and digital equalizers, cassette and reel-to-reel tape recorders, stationary decks of any manufacturers and countries of manufacture.

2. I carry out maintenance work, replacement of dried electrolytic capacitors, backlight lamps, radio components that have lost their manual characteristics over time, lubrication of rubbing parts of mechanisms, contact groups, etc.

3. I carry out a full adjustment according to the passport specifications of the device, this is the same as setting the quiescent currents of the output stages of power amplifiers, as well as correcting the frequency response of the recording-playback path of tape recorders, bias currents, etc.

4. I will help transform your favorite device cosmetically (wash, clean, paint, change something drastically). At the request of the customer, it is possible to upgrade the device in order to obtain better results.

5.I am engaged in the restoration of laser heads for CD players (This topic is very delicate, no one can give 100% of the result in it, and as a rule, no one does this at all, but I practice in this practice and quite successfully.

1. I will help you choose and agree on your future audio kit, help you with the purchase, and give you good advice.

2. I will help you to buy for a reasonable price a really high-quality (step-down transformer, power supply) voltage converter for Japanese equipment for 100V.

3. The same applies to some consumables, heads for tape recorders, their grinding, selection of wires, replacement of speakers, lubrication of suspensions of acoustic systems, replacement of thermal paste on transistors and amplifier microcircuits, and many other issues.

P.S / S I give a guarantee for all types of my services, we discuss all points and questions. I repair and set up devices of all the most important brands such as Teshnis, Panasonis, Sony, Pioner, Denon, Vistor, JVC, Yamaha, Audio-Teshnisa, Miсro Seiki, Teas, Akowisui, Diagram Assuрhase, Nаkаmісhi and others.

Below I will list the main types and types of work:

5. I am engaged in the restoration of laser heads for CD players (This topic is very delicate, no one can give 100% result in it, and as a rule, no one does this at all, but I practice in this practice and quite successfully.

1. I will help you choose and agree on your future audio kit, help you with the purchase, and give you good advice.

2. I will help you to buy for a reasonable price a really high-quality (step-down transformer, power supply) voltage converter for Japanese equipment for 100V.

Club of lovers of vintage equipment and high-quality sound.

Greetings!
I would like to recommend a really cool master. Artem Yakushin, Moscow (no, this is not Artem Nome Nescio, this is a different person). Physicist by education, many years of experience. Repair, if necessary - full restoration. I have already put in order several home devices - two ancient radio tape recorders and two decks. The Sanyo-790MW radio tape recorder of 1985, which has been silent since the 90s, has managed to be collected, in fact, from dust.
Indeed, a professional approach to business. No nonsense, freebies and collective farm. For the money - acceptable. Works with regions.
It is better to ask questions about repairs directly to Artyom, not to me. By exiled - information about him and his coordinates.

Reviews about the work of this master from people from different cities. - can be read in the same place, in the guest room.

I have already made two “deliveries” of my devices for repairs to Artyom.
A very nice person. He is calm in communication. Explains everything.

The results are excellent.
I restored two players.

Pioneer, from Vladislav (vlvlvl). The machine was not working. Someone so overwhelmed the LPM that Artyom was perplexed for a long time. Restored the ribbon type toggle checkbox. Everything is cleared. The machine turned out to have a very dashing mechanism of pinch rollers. Artyom said that he was seeing this for the first time.
In general, a hurricane apparatus works like a hurricane. Sound - ))))(((( .
Only heavy, dog.

AIWA - a player with a clip-on receiver (I do not have it yet) and a built-in speaker. Brought back to life. There are no photos, because I can't remember where I put it after the repair. Will work fishing. And I will look for a receiver.

AIWA - radio tape recorder. I posted it in the acquisitions section. Everything worked in the store. I turned it on at home - everything works. I moved it from the room to the kitchen - the left “pocket” stopped working. As a result, the gear in the autoreverse mechanism fell apart. Everything has been restored. Sings, yoshkin cat.

Now "on demolition" at the Master Akai GX-325... Prevention, cleaning and adjustment of the recording unit.
In general, so far, everything is very, very much.

12 years on the site
user # 63807

VINTAGE AUDIO EQUIPMENT: history, operation, repair, restoration, modernization, exchange of experience, reviews, advice, interesting information, myths, legends, facts, photographs, documentation, service manuals.

♫ Vintage Audio - this is a classic "branded" equipment of the 60s-80s, in terms of sound quality, it is often able to compete with modern models. At the same time, just an old thing found somewhere in the attic is unlikely to fit this definition. After all, only things that are well preserved optically and technically or masterfully restored are considered to be real vintage. If the equipment is well preserved, then before selling it, they only blow off the dust of time or, for example, change lamps or dried containers in amplifiers for similar releases of those years. If the old acoustics asks for restoration, then the worn out parts must be replaced with original or similar components produced in the same period. If this operation is carried out inaccurately, at best the sound of the system will change a little, at worst - the sound will simply "die".

♫ Of course, this type of restoration requires a certain cost. That is why in vintage audio the cost of some technical rarities reaches hundreds of thousands of dollars, and today this is not the limit. Affordable folk old equipment that has received a new life, on average, has a cost of hundreds of American dollars.

♫ But do not be mistaken - time-honored audio equipment is not all equal and not every one sounds better than modern ones. You need to have a lot of time to study and select components, to have your own established idea of how a system of such components should play.

The terms and price of repairs are determined according to the results of diagnostics, the cost of which ranges from 1000 to 2500 rubles, depending on the type of equipment. In this case, we mean full-fledged diagnostics with disassembly of the device, dismantling of boards and assemblies, sometimes with primary repair actions aimed at getting an idea of what a full-fledged repair may result in. That is, in the process of diagnostics, sometimes it is necessary to substitute knowingly serviceable parts, and restore contact where it should be, but is absent, and vice versa, eliminate short circuits.

Diagnostics is paid when the equipment is handed over for repair, and then, upon final settlement, it is deducted from the total cost.

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For example, there is a faulty Radio Engineering turntable. We accept it for repair, write down the declared defect according to the owner, paid 1500 rubles. for the diagnosis. Next, we carry out a full diagnosis for the declared defects, we also check everything else. Based on the results of these actions, the full cost of the repair is formed, including spare parts and diagnostics. For example, in this case it will be 4500 rubles. Accordingly, when issuing a finished player, the client pays 3000 rubles.

Regarding the timing, we can say that the repair of retro equipment takes from two days to two weeks, depending on the type of vintage audio equipment that comes to us for repair.
By the way, this, of course, does not include modern Chinese turntables, the so-called. retro turntables (but we repair them too).

vbvb

huge prices is it a lope? “Hat with breadcrumbs” (DO)?

VIT59

It's not a problem to repair, but it costs money. And what is "huge prices" is everyone's understanding of the original. It would be more correct to voice the name of the patient and what he is sick with.

Bedwere

VIT59

VIT59

Bedwere

Image - DIY repair of vintage audio equipment

Bedwere

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VIT59

Bedwere

VIT59

German

VIT59

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VIT59

- Hey, do you know where you can buy a new head for my CD player? He broke down.

I've heard this so many times that I decided to write about lasers, their problems and simple solutions.

I looked inside over 100 players that DIDN'T READ CDs and only one (in decimal and binary it is exactly "1") had a broken head. And this one died because of my stupidity. But that is not the subject of this article.

There are at least twenty reasons why a CD player won't read discs, and stereotyped people call all these problems BROKEN HEAD.

And this is EXTREMELY WRONG, because laser heads are no longer produced, and what is left, these holy reserves, are being brutally snapped up by those who know nothing better than to stupidly buy a new head.

- in accordance with "my great experience" in this matter is:

1. CD inside the player, left over in the tray after being moved. The disc falls into the CD's “guts” and blocks the mechanism.When the owner inserts the second disc inside, the player naturally shows an error.

- Treatment: The first medicine that comes to my mind is to open the disc and remove the stuck CD.

2. The 20-year-old belt that powers the tray starts to slip or breaks. After closing the tray - the disc does not fit correctly on the spindle.

3. CD player in a dusty environment. Dust or cigarette tar has settled on the laser optics. Dust causes dispersion of the beam. The laser loses focus.

- Treatment: open the player and clean the surface of the laser head with an ear stick. First with a wet tip moistened with cleaning liquid, then dry. If this is not enough, clean the laser INSIDE the readhead. But this is for the advanced. Better to give this job to a watchmaker. Below are some photos.

4. The power supply to the laser circuit is faulty: either the voltage is too low, or noisy, or starts to oscillate from poor filtering or regulation. Dry electrolytes may be the cause.

- Treatment: replace all the electrolytes in the digital part of the board, or even better - everything.

5. There is cold soldering in the laser circuit. - Indeed, unsoldered connections can corrode and fail over time. Even the best players of 20 years ago are guilty of this. Hot-soldered connections, such as the leg of the regulator, or the point where the voltage is rectified, or the laser power controller - from the heat they begin to accelerate wear - a mixture of oxidation, flux burnout and tin evaporation.

- Treatment: take a look at all solder joints, especially around the laser power cable connectors, around all controls, around areas that look burnt, brownish or welded - and re-solder those connections with some fresh solder with fresh flux.

6. Moving cables or tapes - break after millions of bends.

- Treatment: Check for continuity in the bends of the belts leading to the laser, tray or drive mechanism.

7. The driving mechanism accumulates dirt, hair and dust on the oily part and the head cannot return to the center, its original position. With each ride, the dirt is repelled and forms a kind of "bumper" that remains on each side of the track.

- Treatment: clean the tracks, axles and rods at their edges.

8. The main motor is not holding the correct speed.
It looks as if the laser cannot read the disc, but the point is the wrong rotation speed. This could be caused by the disc sliding on the spindle, or a defect in the engine, or something blocking the CD, such as rubbing against the surface of the tray with a corresponding sound. For example, a spindle can wear out its lower bearing and the whole mechanism will be lower by one tenth of a millimeter. The laser loses focus and the top clamp will not press well. In any case - the spindle must be returned to these tenths of a millimeter.

- Treatment: if the motor is the simplest Mabuchi for 5 bucks, it is better to replace it. If it is a CDM or KSS magnetic series with brushless motors, then simply adjust the spindle height.

9. Hair or something else is stuck inside the laser focusing mechanism.
The laser cannot move up and down freely. If the CD is highly electrified, it attracts hair, dust and pet hair. During playback, they can be hit by the laser focusing suspension.

- Treatment: remove the obstacle.

10. The CD does not spin. After closing the tray, nothing happens and an error is displayed. This may be the result of the CD not spinning at all. The CD drive should be examined.

Even without specialized equipment, we mortals can diagnose the problem quite well, while saving a ton of money in repairs. Or buying a new head. Or even a new player.

If this story is familiar to you firsthand - the laser is REALLY DEAD. A dying laser with twisted power dies very quickly.

An example of deep cleaning of the Sony KSS151A laser:

The first step is to remove the head cover (for example KSS-151A, similar to other Sony heads).

Date: 11.10.2018 10:12:10 (End of publication: 25.10.2018)

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Auto Amplifier - an element of the control system (or registration and control), designed to amplify the input signal.

HI-end equipment repair, HI-FI equipment repair, sound amplifier repair. ... ... These and many other services, computers.

Idol 35u-102s-1 Modified to HI-FI. Improved. Reworked food (as needed). Replaced bridge. Isp. dio.

Our site will help you quickly find an experienced craftsman to order any home appliance repair services. Submit your request and trusted specialists will offer you their services and prices.

You can hardly find a person who has never encountered any kind of audio technology. Its diversity is so great that, not to mention Moscow or St. Petersburg, even in the most remote villages and villages, people have an idea of such devices as:

record player
player
car radio
synthesizer
microphone
amplifier

Such a variety and popularity generates a demand for services. Therefore, audio repair shops are quite popular and are constantly in demand.

A true audio repair technician should be a versatile person and have knowledge and skills from various fields of activity. This is due to the fact that any audio technology combines such sciences as:

Elimination of any problems arising in a particular area is the initial task of real specialists.

Repair services can be performed both at the customer's home and directly in the workshop. While it's not always convenient to get bulky equipment there and pick it up, sometimes it's just necessary to fix some complex damage.

On the You Do service exchange, the services of audio technicians are provided in a wide range. Here you can always order the repair of audio equipment from any manufacturer. All masters who offer their services work based on such solid principles as:

high quality and reliability
the most favorable terms for you
minimum prices for services
help with helpful tips

This topic is archived and closed for further replies.

On Saturday, October 6, Audeze magniplanar headphones in the company of amplifiers and DACs from Schiit Audio will arrive in St. Petersburg in full force, so that you can freely, attentively and calmly listen to them.

All comers will have a full range of Schiit Audio electronics - digital-to-analog converters and headphone amplifiers, from the smallest Fulla and Modi to the top “ultimate” Ragnarok headphone and speaker amplifier.

The entire range of American magnesian planars will be brought to St. Petersburg - from “portable” inexpensive iSines to top-end LCD-4s, the freshest closed LCD-2 closed backs, and of course the absolutely incredible Audeze Mobius wireless magniplanar headphones with a 3D sound panorama stabilization system. .Read more..

North American high-end manufacturer Krell Industries has unveiled the new K-300i integrated amplifier.Happy owners of equipment and fans of Krell are familiar with this index - once the company had already released a model of an integrated amplifier called KAV-300i, which was one of the leaders in the class.

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Often in audiophile circles in discussions and when describing the sound of systems, a large number of terms are used that are not always clear to an inexperienced reader. That is, communication is at the level of some kind of audio lenght.

In this short article, I, without claiming to be the ultimate truth, will try to describe my understanding of the audiophile terms for describing the sound of audio systems, and also try to draw a logical connection between the subjective and the objective. Namely, between what we hear and what we can measure.

I'll start with the terms responsible for the primary perception of the sound of systems.

This year the Japanese company Stax celebrates its 80th anniversary. The most famous manufacturer of electrostatic headphones has decided to please personal audio lovers with a special set, limited to the SRM 353X amplifier and SR-L300 Limited headphones. And what is most interesting, as can be seen from the labeling, this limited edition is not designed for the most affluent music lovers, as one might assume, based on such a significant date, but, on the contrary, is addressed to a mass audience (mass, of course, conditionally - within brand pricing policy). However, the fact that Stax produces expensive, very expensive and prohibitively expensive headphones is known to almost all fans of this method of listening.

Audeze headphones are known to all personal audio enthusiasts. The company once set a new benchmark in the quality of headphones, opening a completely new sector - high-end headphones. I think that almost every fan of listening to music with headphones will definitely name Audeze among the coolest, and this is quite natural.

Audeze uses a planar design, where a thin membrane with a conductor applied to the surface acts as the emitter. This design theoretically allows you to get a large scale of sound, combined with a lot of detail and special "transparency" of the sound, without losing in dynamics and sound pressure, however, this design is very demanding on the quality of amplification.

Today I have a couple of models, both of them are somewhere in the middle of the company's lineup, which means that they are more expensive than the flagships of many other manufacturers. The models are called LCD-2 and LCD-2C.

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(14-12-2012 23:47) Art1992 wrote: A question for experts - can a change in the parameters of resistors by 2-30% lead to inoperability? A blown resistor, like a fuse, is a consequence, not a cause, of a malfunction. Therefore, in your case, resistors fell victim to faulty active elements - transistors.
From experience, repairing an amplifier, despite its apparent simplicity, is akin to repairing the primary part of a pulsed power supply unit - you haven't seen anything and you have a pile of incinerated parts.

As for your specific case, in essence, in your own words.
1) First you need to replace all burnt resistors.
2) At the time of repair and adjustment, in order to avoid significant costs, you can evaporate all the outputs, the scheme allows this.
3) Check all semiconductors - replace defective ones.
4) Switch on the amplifier and check the constant voltage at the output. It should be equal to 0V.
5) If the conditions of point 4 are met, set the trimming resistors TVR8, TVR9 to the position of maximum resistance and solder the serviceable output transistors. The operations of this item should be carried out with the amplifier turned off and waiting for the complete discharge of the power supply capacitors. The latter without weekends will be discharged rather slowly. The procedure can be accelerated by discharging them with a light bulb or a soldering iron fork.
6) Connect the amplifier to the network through a light bulb connected in series with the primary and measure the constant voltage at the output of the amplifiers.
7) In the absence of a constant, turn on the amplifier without a light bulb and set the TVR8, TVR9 trimmers to the manufacturer's recommended quiescent current of the outputs.

if I were a little older and smarter, I would have done this, but I am young and stubborn, and nothing makes my heart burn more than the difficulties that I overcome on my way.

Groove, as a person who has achieved a lot on her way, you do not understand my unjustified means for my purposes (after all, it's true - all the efforts that I spent on its unsuccessful repair have long exceeded UAH 200 in my eyes), but you too are making your own VCL probably also overcame several dozen difficulties, which is why I fix the VCL myself, regardless of the means - the time will come and I will achieve something, but ONLY if I try.
(15-12-2012 23:36) VNV73 wrote: (14-12-2012 23:47) Art1992 wrote: A question for experts - can a change in resistor parameters by 2-30% lead to inoperability? A blown resistor, like a fuse, is a consequence, not a cause, of a malfunction. Therefore, in your case, resistors fell victim to faulty active elements - transistors.
From experience, repairing an amplifier, despite its apparent simplicity, is akin to repairing the primary part of a pulsed power supply unit - you haven't seen anything and you have a pile of incinerated parts.

if the consequence of burnt resistors is transistors (after all, it's true - only those resistors that were closest to the transistors burnt out), then is it possible to assert that the transistor (at least) is working if it was checked by a tester (rang out) and all of them have dials the same indicators?

groove
Quite right! But we probably won't understand this

Some people like to do jerking off on their own, thinking that they will save money in this way, and then in the end (as a rule, such experiments are not crowned with success) give it to the master (and a good master can also wrap himself up for not bringing the device to him right away ) and pay at the same time twice as much (for the fact that after the "skillful hands" there will of course be more work, and as a result, spending three times more on "jerking off" and on the services of a master

P.S. All of the above was also from my own experience.

(16-12-2012 01:37) nem2007 wrote: groove
Quite right! But we probably won't understand this

P.S. All of the above was also from my own experience.

+1 and -1. I myself have been a “soldering iron” for about 30 years, but I learned (for myself) the truth - if you want it well, DO IT YOURSELF.They brought me myself more than once after self-digging - I swear - I raise the cost of repairs, but if a person shows Prudence and DESIRE, then I try to help.

nem2007, honestly admit - I understand you - I understand what it feels like when you try, advise a person what you have learned for years, and this man turns out to be a rotten person, which is disgusting himself, but the truth is that it’s incredibly interesting for me to read it here someone's advice and immediately follow it, as soon as I was advised to measure the current at the output of the usya, the seven-dimensional shoulder of the PSU, as I immediately - on the same day the tester ran to buy, I thought that I wouldn't have to measure a lot and could borrow, but it turned out that it is desirable to own.

I did not disregard any of the advice given to me, I tried it all! so why don't you believe that a person who strives for something is doomed to failure just because he does not have years of experience behind him.

and in this case, experience is not sleight of hand, but knowledge that some people share, for which I am extremely grateful to all of them.

(16-12-2012 02:33) Art1992 wrote: so why don't you believe that a person who strives for something is doomed to failure just because he does not have years of experience behind him. I didn't say that at all.

After all, experience must come from somewhere, by itself it will not fall from the sky

For me personally, when something is interesting, I try to read the relevant literature, so to speak, study the mat.
Well, on the forums, of course, you can scoop up a lot of useful information, but the very essence (root) must be read all the same acc. literature (books) or go to acc. Courses it will not be clear what experienced people write on the forums

And regarding the dispute over the plus signs - I only wanted to prove that I was able to do it with my own hands, and I would not say that it is so difficult to fix it. I also have a backup plan for fixing it - this is the sequential replacement of all the parts on it from transistors to resistors and capacitors, but I don’t understand anything new. because here I ask for advice, they will tell you to check - I will check it, I will do it as advised, in this way I will fix everything.

PS: Once I also ran into difficulty - I was about 16 years old and I wanted to flash the Sony Placement 3 console - for some reason they washed my brains out, told me that I needed to see a specialist, and that I myself would only do worse, but I did everything I did it myself, although there is more responsibility than in a mustache, because an incorrectly stitched console is all the same that a piece of iron that even in a service center will not be repaired without replacing expensive parts. after that incident, I learned purely subconsciously not to react to words like - you won't succeed.

Video (click to play).

And even so it is insulting. Surely, after all, you had something similar - when you went forward, even when everyone around said that it was better to surrender. So why didn’t anyone write here something like that - I had a similar situation, they didn’t believe in me, they tried to break me with their own words, but I did everything, so don’t Give up Artyom, you can do anything!

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