DIY boat engine propeller repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of propellers of outboard motors from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Brothers! On May, he did not have time to dodge the driftwood and as a result of the collision broke off half of the blade of the aluminum propeller. Motor Merck 90, a new screw costs about 6,000 rubles, so I thought about repairing a broken one, I rummaged on the Internet like a couple of offices in Moscow are engaged. Maybe someone tried to repair the screw or not get sick and buy a new one? I don’t feel sorry for the money, rather the question is interesting, for example, it can be cured and put as a backup

Recently there was a topic. It all depends on the cost of the work 🙂 And then I would only put such a screw in stock. So go to the store 🙁

I tried to weld such screws with argon outwardly, everything seems to be pretty good, but with a slight hit on any obstacle, it breaks at the place of welding. So it is repaired if the current is in reserve to reach the place. And I wouldn't even try.

Once, at a gathering of water motors, I drove across the ice fields of the Crimea with Whirlwind. I barely made it home, I almost became Chelyuskin, the wind moved the fields and really wiped them out, ice broke for an hour and a half. Having raised the motor, I saw that I had driven on one blade and did not notice, only the roots remained from the two blades. There was no vibration, it was gaining speed easier and there was no full speed.

MAK-360 wrote:

> I tried to weld such screws with argon outwardly everything is not bad
> like, but with a slight collision with any obstacle, it breaks down
> the place of welding. so that it is repaired if the current is in stock up to
> places to walk. And I wouldn't even try.

Video (click to play).

I approximately thought that half the cost of the new one would be given for work, but there would be little sense. I will post a photo of a feint who could not stand the battle with a snag))) Today I replaced it with a new one

\ Tried to weld such screws with argon outwardly, everything seems to be pretty good, but with a slight collision with any obstacle, it breaks at the place of welding. So repaired if the current is in stock to reach the place. And I wouldn't even try. \

So maybe you tried with such hands?
A normally repaired, step-by-step and balanced propeller runs no worse (and often better) than a store-bought one.
Here is the screw (Susa 140) before and after the repair, after the repair it has been running for the third season

This propeller (Yama 30), after repair, has already participated in several cross-country races and no one is in a hurry to return for revision.

There are many more photos with screws, in the worst condition before repair (or generally welded from a bare hub - these are mainly for racing) and have been running for several seasons. It all depends on the hands.

Date of registration: 22-June 14

The topic is about repairing your outboard propeller. Need some advice - ask our fishermen.

Request - in this thread, refrain from flooding. For those who want to “just talk”,at the bottom of each message there is a "Reply in flood" button.

For questions about the outboard motor, there is a whole "PLM" section.

By Boats - a boat section with a bunch of topics.

Choosing a screw for your PLM, subject - “Selection, replacement of a boat propeller ”.

Any flood in this thread will be deleted by the moderators, without explanations or warnings. Malicious flooders - risk getting banned.

But, despite the strictness of our Rules, I wish you pleasant communication. If you need help, please contact.

Date of registration: 30-November 15

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City: Novoaltaisk-beloyarsk

tell the guys how to correct the screw? if it is possible at all? bent on the river the vibration is terrible, on the bank corrected on a stump, visually it is very crooked. suza-9.9

Date of registration: 24-June 14

tell the guys how to correct the screw? if it is possible at all? bent on the river the vibration is terrible, on the bank corrected on a stump, visually it is very crooked. suza-9.9

Better to take a new one, I know a friend sent me to rule somewhere in St. Petersburg.

Never argue with idiots. You will sink to their level, where they will crush you with their experience!

Date of registration: 23-June 14

if it is possible at all? Perhaps, but you need special equipment and a stepping slide. It's easier to send Almaya to St. Petersburg. It will be better than the new one.

Date of registration: 22-June 14

I agree with Mitrich and Sergei.

I will add - an incorrectly straightened screw will quickly ruin the shaft or bearing (s) on the shaft - it will break like an unbalanced wheel disk.

Date of registration: 16-Jul 14

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City: Barnaul
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tell the guys how to correct the screw? if it is possible at all? bent on the river the vibration is terrible, on the bank corrected on a stump, visually it is very crooked. suza-9.9

As a rule, one or two blades bend. If you see that it’s crooked, correct it. Choose the least damaged blade, make one not crooked, but the rest along it. And check everything else, shaft, plug caps, tank connectors. How many bent and knocked screws there were, there was never a particular vibration on motors up to 15 mares. The weights and sizes are not the same.

Peter, of course, is good, but in this category it is not very budgetary.

On the last fishing trip I hit a small piece of wood. The speed dropped by 2-3 km. Their. simia. At home in the garage I fixed the burrs on one blade, and on the next fishing trip I'll see what happened.

Post has been edited by stalex: 03 October 2016 - 20:06

I've been studying all my life. Hope the holidays are not coming soon.

Date of registration: 16-Jul 14

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City: Barnaul
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I agree with Mitrich and Sergei.

I will add - an incorrectly straightened screw will quickly ruin the shaft or bearing (s) on the shaft - it will break like an unbalanced wheel disk.

But I disagree with either Engels or Kautsky ... (Heart of a Dog)

No, well, you can ruin everything with our men, but so that quickly the bearings, and even more the shaft, mulberries, I am categorically disagreeable.

If there is a strong vibration on the motor up to 15-18 forces on the tiller, then the difference in the curvature of the propeller blades can be seen even after 3-4 or even 5 stars. And if not with an “armed” look, then no questions at all.

As in the army: - albeit ugly, but uniform.

I've been studying all my life. Hope the holidays are not coming soon.

Date of registration: 19-July 14

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City: Malinbiao
I can be useful: there is nothing to help

In the Flood, Truth is Born.

Date of registration: 16-Jul 14

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City: Barnaul
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The node in this case is a reducer, the rest of the details of the node. To reduce the service life of the NODE, one of the parts must fail.

The shaft loses geometry immediately upon impact.

Then, the bent shaft breaks the oil seals, water gets into the gearbox, then the bearings run out, etc. increasingly.

The shaft was bent, there was water in the gearbox.

If the shaft is not bent, then even a “visual straightening on a hemp” to a more or less the same condition of the blades should not give a strong vibration. Of course, if the eye is not glass and your hands grow above the waist

I've been studying all my life. Hope the holidays are not coming soon.

Date of registration: 16-Jul 14

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City: Barnaul
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You shouldn't be so, one thing is a burr, another is a change in the geometry of the screw. I think that of course the shaft will not break right away, but it will significantly reduce the service of this unit.

No, well, you can sit, cry, turn off the engine and go to the parking lot on the oars, turning on the alarm, of course, and call a mail courier on the sotik to urgently send the propeller to St. Petersburg

And you can, of course, assessing the nuisance, take measures for restoration and continue fishing.

Here everyone decides for himself

I've been studying all my life. Hope the holidays are not coming soon.

Date of registration: 29-June 14

Date of registration: 16-Jul 14

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And if the situation is even more deplorable - a broken blade - are there places where they know how to weld, or definitely for non-ferrous metal?

In Novosibirsk, I have repeatedly seen advertisements for the restoration of screws and gearboxes, the price tag in the advertisement is humane. I did not apply myself. And he didn’t call.

IMHO the ability to weld strongly depends on the material. But the question arises, has the broken piece survived?

If there is a need, you need to call to find out the technology, then decide

I've been studying all my life. Hope the holidays are not coming soon.

Date of registration: 23-June 14

“Visual straightening on the hemp” to more or less the same condition of the blades should not give a strong vibration. Tie the crap to smack, my screw, aligned far from the hemp, gave a decent vibration, visually everything was in order. Found a joint only on a stepping hill.

Date of registration: 30-September 14

Any cast part after impact will have a broken geometry, and straightening and welding is practically impossible. To fix defects on parts of complex geometry, which screw is needed at least a matrix for this screw, well, hands with experience gained by more than one product. Wow, not only make the same curve, on all blades, but also the angle of inclination, relative to the axis, and the step must be observed.

The question immediately arises, what is the difference between a proprietary screw and a copy? Probably, manufacturing accuracy and closeness to the ideal curve and efficiency close to ideal.

However, the option with hemp, in fishing conditions, is simply necessary to continue fishing and return to the base.

Do something useful in life, then it will become pleasant.

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Lensky
Elder
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Where: Irkutsk region
Registered: 10-02-2017
Posts: 998

I have experience in restoring all the operating characteristics of the screws of imported motors. If the topic is interesting to someone, I can share my experience in detail.

..very

Lensky
Elder
Inactive

Where: Irkutsk region
Registered: 10-02-2017
Posts: 998

..the text is blurry

Lensky
Elder
Inactive

Where: Irkutsk region
Registered: 10-02-2017
Posts: 998

✔️ fas.st/1SYO-T - Huge selection of new screws and accessories

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The rotated screw from the Yamaha 30 was reanimated. Drilled through the screw and inserted the pins that prevent the sleeve from turning. The damper remained rotated but locked firmly.
The method is not the most humane and correct, but very simple and cheap.
If you know how to fix such a screw, then write in the comments.

fucking goggles reducer in meat

If you get stranded or hit somewhere on a stone, immediately change the gearbox 🙂 So it's better to buy a new one

guy screw well tighten the shaeba presses on the damper, from time to time it is necessary to overtighten and that's it. so I turned a new screw.

did the same. I just cut the threads and planted them on an inseparable hermitic.

With a thread it will be clearly more reliable.

So did the pins survive or not?

We rode on the screw for about 20 minutes. Nothing criminal happened. Everything stands still. Lies as a spare.

Guys, these dampers can be ordered separately and re-pressed (it will take five minutes and not from some collective farm)

Silent block in the car market suitable

they just want to sell you bad

For example here and so on

Please tell me where to order. I dug the whole Internet and I can't find a fig. Also the screw is steel

Officials in the furnace! Divorce is important to them, not your well-being.
There are dampers separately, I bought for the screw from Toha and repressed it myself.

I ran into such a problem right now, tell me how long did it take?

Imagine I just did it differently. Where the nut splits the hole, I drilled the screw on both sides and stuck a through pin along the edges of the groove.

This is a spare screw. It took only about an hour. So the statistics are too small.

You have done something stupid, 1.Take Soviet outboard motors, the propeller is secured with brass or bronze pins, I will not talk about the strength of metals, in short, aluminum pins are not rolled in this mounting option. 2. The rubber-reinforced damper provides a reduction in radial-dynamic loads from the gearbox shaft, in other words, all dynamic discrepancies will come to the radial bearings of the gearbox shaft, resulting in the destruction of the gearbox.
3. Pouring such things with epoxy is also stupid, it's easier to cut threads in a screw and twist pins and put the threads on glue - then it will be dead.
4. Unfortunately, I did not quite understand from the video what exactly scrolled (outer diameter damper)?
5. Here, the same thing, only after 70 km, everything fell into disrepair

Subject: Propellers, repair restoration ?! - Repair, revision, maintenance of floating crafts - Boats and boats - Transport (vehicles) - Main section - Forums of the Open Club Petersburg Hunter

"Whoever hunts and fishes will not get anything!" "From myself and for my brother!"

A properly restored screw is no worse than a new one. In addition, restoration is 3-4 times cheaper than a new screw (non-original). When you kill a screw 2-3 times over the summer, the savings are significant.

Believe me - it is possible in practice. Everything depends on the master.

If you need someone to fix the screw, knock on the PM, I'll give you the master's phone number.

I don't want to post it in the public domain.

If the wines are worth 20 thousand and wait a month. Then no alternatives. And for 2t.r it is easier to buy a new one.

If the screw costs 20 thousand and wait a month. Then no alternatives. And for 2t.r it is easier to buy a new one.

If you need someone to fix the screw, knock on the PM, I'll give you the master's phone number.

I don't want to post it in the public domain.

the only screw, its price is the same, there are no others.

Ah, Lesha "Almay"! Lives in Krasnoe Selo. He also has a workshop there.

The master is good, he does it with a soul. It does almost everything: welds on blades, balances, restores geometry, tilt angles, changes the pitch of the propeller, etc. I myself have repeatedly used his services. I know him from the RCC.

✔️ EVERYTHING for fishing:

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Video Do-it-yourself repair of a propeller boat propeller. Damper / coupling / bushing repair. channel VeterNSK

The damper (bushing) of the standard (original) Suzuki DF-15 propeller turned. According to the Servesmen, a replaceable bushing is not included in spare parts. Throwing out a propeller with intact blades, the hand does not rise. Our country is full of Kulibins. This gives rise to the actual question: “Who treated the problem, how? “. Redoing under the key as an option, which is accompanied by drilling, I leave it as the very last.
This problem applies to other brands of engines as well.

I drilled a damper (rubber) in several places, filled it with glue, screwed in several self-tapping screws - Holds for 20 hours has passed. Now in stock, I use a high-speed one. Yamaha 8.

As I understand it, the rubber was drilled to reach the screw body and the cavity was filled with glue (what?). And where were the screws screwed in? If in the body of rubber to wedge, is it not better to use rods with glue? They will seal better than self-tapping screws.

Yes, I did that. He took molecular glue in a small tube. Maybe it should have been different?

Valera, think about it yourself. what is better to sell them - a screw or a bushing. Now, if they offered you a sleeve for 100 and a screw for 200 (based on prices, for example, according to my link), then it would be better for them to sell the sleeve. But smart people also sit there and understand. that you obviously can't buy a sleeve for 100.
Gena, and this is already called differently: mad: Therefore, I sent my question on the situation to not the last person of the service.

———- Added at 09:40 ———- Previous post was posted at 09:38 ———-

Managery delirium. the sleeve is sold and changed, only the cone needs to be carved for pressing ..
It is clear that the mandrel is needed, and also the question is about the restoration, because the damper also costs money. Here are the nuances of technology and balance (taking into account the revs) in order to restore the propeller not as a spare, but as a running propeller.

———- Added at 11:13 ———- Previous post was posted at 09:40 ———-

Yes, I did that. He took molecular glue in a small tube. Maybe it should have been different?
Well, in another way, in this version, it can only with self-tapping screws, as already mentioned, if they fill the role of spacers-seals. the self-tapping screw cuts the body practically without bursting the hole. I haven't seen the bushings of my screw. If there is a solid body, then yes, but if the outer surface has longitudinal ribs, then this can get into the cavity. Again, experiments with glue are needed to withstand the environment a habitat.
But this is theory (IMHO), and the practitioners are still silent.

Sobsno the best recovery technology :)

Screws and glue. I spent about 20 hours, now in stock. He, an infection, probably scrolls inside on a small diameter. If a large diameter was scrolled, then it would be possible to drill through the metal of the screw and screw it onto the rubber. Unless, of course, I'm not confusing.

At what service did they say that? Purely curious. I even have this in my warehouse. Someone ordered a long time ago and did not come to pick it up. Drive up, I'll give it up at the entrance, rarely demanded thing. Usually the screws cripple, but the dampers are alive.

Rummaging in the world wide web, on the issue of replacing the bushing, I came across useful information. Therefore, in the topic I changed the title simply to "screw repair".
So, repairing an aluminum screw:
0ixZmaENjHM
Steel screw repair:
eq9PwAgDroQ & feature = related
U6FZzVj8FgA & feature = related

Shl. The grandfather is more conscientious in doing than the young. Balancing is a necessary thing.
ZyZy. I took the bushing into my propeller. Some doubts are tormenting. It’s understandable to make a mandrel. There is a landing place, there will be no problems.
When pressing in, the bushing can skew with all the consequences. I think I need a guide.
Who did what or how? Do not want to spoil the sleeve.

Leafing through the chat room to find a topic for a person, I decided to collect the scattered into one (for convenience)
[Links to union members only.]

[Links to union members only.]

I remembered that I had not left information on the bushings, sorry.
Damper bushing screw Suzuki DF-15 (9,9)
original sleeve catalog number 58120-93701-000
Solas bushing catalog designation SA-RB
Both hubs fit Suzuki and Solas propellers

At one time, when King Hammurami was still living, he argued that the time spent fishing is not included in the total life span. This is also stated by many citizens who like to spend part of their free time fishing.

Typically, most anglers own a boat. Many boats, especially modern ones, are equipped with gasoline engines. And a boat without a motor, especially if you have to fish in the expanses of a large lake, becomes a burden that requires huge costs, strength and energy to move. And here you definitely need a motor: gasoline or electric - no difference.

And yet, special attention should be paid to the electric motor, because:

electric ones do not require oil or gasoline for their work, which means there are no exhaust gases, which does not harm nature;
electric motors are smaller, lighter and less space-consuming. This is especially true if you have to fish far away, and every kilogram of excess weight is always felt;
they are much more profitable than their gasoline counterparts in economic terms;
modern designs are assembled on modern parts developed using modern technologies, therefore, with a minimum weight, they have maximum power.

Read also: Gearbox ZF 16 DIY repair

But these statements take place in the event that the boat owner already has an electric motor and has experienced such advantages to the fullest. But what if he is not there? So, you need to do it yourself.

Many adventurous boat owners use a drill or screwdriver that runs on batteries, as the industrial design of an electric motor is based on the same principle. The basic layout of such a unit is almost the same for all models and looks like this:

the battery is the power source;
the electric motor acts as a boat engine;
a propeller with a gearbox is a working tool that ensures the movement of the boat on the water;
control unit - consists of a handle for turning the direction of movement and changing the speed of rotation of the electric motor.

Almost all elements can be found in an electric drill or screwdriver. It should be borne in mind that industrial devices are hermetically sealed, which allows the main units to be in the water.

If you use an electric drill, then it is desirable that it is located away from water. This is the only problem, quite serious, that requires a technical solution. The slightest hit of water on the control unit can disable it, which will lead to the stop of the boat.

If you take an electric drill, you should always remember that its main value is the engine and the speed control unit (button). Choosing a drill or screwdriver comes with some advantages over buying an industrial outboard motor:

for the price, this purchase will cost much less than buying a factory sample;

according to the legislation, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements related to the power of the engines used in various bodies of water;

the electric drill works from a battery or other power sources with suitable parameters;

the electric drill is easy to repair, thanks to the availability of a sufficient number of spare parts on the market.

When choosing a drill, one should take into account the factor that it is mainly designed to work in a cyclic mode. If the drill will be installed on a boat, then you need to rely more on a continuous work cycle. This means that a reserve of power is needed, otherwise the drill will overheat.In such cases, you should opt for a power of 150 W and more. The power reserve will allow you to work with a propeller with a diameter of 130-150 mm. In addition, it must be borne in mind that the total weight of the boat will correspond to 300 kg, not more. It can be considered that this is the limiting weight.You should immediately pay attention to the fact that drills and screwdrivers are available for various operating voltages, such as 12 V, 14.5 V, 16 V, 18 V and 24 volts. Batteries are also available for the same voltage. And yet, the capacity of standard batteries that serve the operation of an electric drill or screwdriver in classic working conditions is not enough to ensure the necessary movement of the boat on the water. In this regard, it is better to pay attention to the car battery, which has a much higher capacity. And since a car battery gives out 12 V under a load, then a drill should also be chosen with an operating voltage of 12 V.Naturally, you can make a battery of accumulators from a set of produced batteries for power tools for any voltage, but this can be much more expensive.