Do-it-yourself viscous coupling repair freelander

After analyzing the comments of motorists on forums and social networks, it became obvious that drivers have a very abstract idea of ​​such a simple and interesting in many respects device - viscous coupling. So, read the details about the principle of operation, checking and self-repairing the viscous coupling.

Viscous coupling — it is a special device that rotates the cooling fan thanks to a special fluid. It has a round shape with a silicone base filled with grease; serves for smooth fan control. At first glance, the principle of operation will seem complicated, however, if you look at it, this is not so: the crankshaft rotates, transferring energy to the first shaft of the clutch. The device then accelerates, which makes the silicone inside it more viscous. The clutch is blocked, after which the second disc begins to rotate, on which the radiator fan is located.

The viscous coupling is used on almost all motors, since the device is reliable and safe. If a hand is inserted into a moving mechanism through carelessness or inexperience, the device will stop, thus preventing injury.

After a long period of inactivity of the car, the viscous coupling needs an oil change, as well as a check of the condition and operation in general. In addition, failure is possible due to wear or some other reason.

It is quite difficult to recognize a breakdown of a viscous coupling, but there are ways to check its performance.

Look at the speed of the device when the engine is cold and hot. In the first case, strange sounds are usually not observed, and the number of revolutions is correct. With a hot engine, the picture is different: extraneous noises are heard, and the rotational speed of the viscous coupling may not correspond to the norm.

Various noises are often caused by faulty bearings. Also, the cause of the device malfunction may be the gland seal, or the leaked special silicone fluid.

If you notice engine overheating, do not rush to do replacement viscous couplings. You may be able to repair the broken part yourself.

• The most common cause of failure is silicone leakage from the base of the part. To fill in new fluid, you need:

1. Remove the viscous coupling from the water sediment, and then disassemble it.
2. On the disk of the device itself there is a plate with a spring, under which there is a hole for the silicone fluid. You need to use the utmost care to remove the pin, and then fill with a syringe with grease. Keep in mind that during such a repair, the part is laid horizontally.
3. It is enough to draw fifteen milliliters of oily liquid with a syringe.
4. Slowly pour the silicone inside.
5. Wait a few minutes without removing the syringe from the hole, so that the liquid has time to deeply flow into the viscous coupling.
6. Wipe the surface of the device from excess liquid if necessary.
7. Replace the pin and then install the part.

If you are not well versed in cars and do not know how certain parts work, it is better not to start repairing yourself. The point here is not the possible breakdown of parts of the vehicle, but the difficulty of putting everything back together.

• Also, bearings are a common cause of viscous coupling failure. There is only one symptom of such a malfunction: various kinds of noises in the area of ​​the cooling radiator.

1. To repair the device, the first step is to remove it. To do this, unscrew the three bolts that secure the part. After that, the viscous coupling can be easily removed from the engine compartment.
2. After removing the device, you can start replacing the bearing.Replace them only when you have disassembled the unit and drained the oil fluid. Use a special tool to remove the bearing - a puller. If you use the tools at hand, you can completely damage the node.
3. Having installed a new bearing, you can start installing the device. Do not forget to fill in new silicone fluid, which was drained before repairing the viscous coupling.

When you notice a "misbehaving" of a coupling, you do not need to change the entire part right away, as it can often be repaired. Special skills and abilities for this business will not be required.

The only difficulty that can arise is finding a puller to remove the old bearing. The tool is not sold in every car store, which makes it difficult to repair the viscous coupling on your own. If you have visited all the car dealerships you know and did not find a puller, ask your friends-drivers. The rest of the details are easy to find.

• Not all such devices have a hole for filling oily liquid. If you are a "beginner", do not try to repair the device yourself. Experienced craftsmen make the holes themselves. You can, of course, also try drilling the hole at your own risk.
• Do not use brute force when handling the disc. If the aluminum on the currency is bent, the viscous coupling cannot be repaired - only a complete replacement of the device.

1. Open the hood of the car and flip out some of the fan housing latches.
2. Unscrew the bolts with a 6-point hex wrench.
3. Remove the cooling fan.
4. Rotate the cover 180 ° to the right. There is no other way to remove the part. Therefore, it will not work to get to the viscous coupling.
5. Unscrew the viscous coupling with a 36 wrench. The tool jaws should be no thicker than 10 millimeters.
6. After taking out the device, clean it from dirt and dust.
7. Next, you need to rivet the bimetallic plate of the viscous coupling on one side.
8. Pull out the part disk and fill with a syringe with PMS-100 lubricating fluid.
9. Assemble the viscous coupling structure back; install the device in the car.

1. There are no fundamental differences in removing the device. You need to unscrew three screws securing the impeller and then three more to remove the cover.
2. Then, taking out the viscous coupling, carefully remove the upper disc, which serves to block the fan.
   
3. The entire device is lubricated with special oil. Repair the viscous coupling to preserve it. If you do not know the exact name of the liquid, it will be extremely difficult to find it.
4. Simply replacing the bearing will not work, since you first need to grind off the flare on the shaft.
5. Place the device in a vise for greater ease of repair.
6. The bearing also needs to be ground off. If this is not done, the base of the viscous coupling can be severely damaged.
7. Buy a sealed type bearing with no visible balls at any automotive store. Its cost is not more than 100 rubles.
8. Before seating the bearing, coat the seat with sealant.
9. Assemble the viscous coupling and then install it in the car.

Found on one of the forums. in my opinion, an excellent and detailed instruction for the restoration of viscous coupling.
Author.VladPe
1. We start repairing a jammed clutch by removing it from the car, how to do this is in all repair manuals.

3. We drill two holes, as shown in the photo, symmetrically to each other

4. I cut an m6 thread in the holes, see what comes out of the hole when blowing with air

5. Next, I assembled the flushing unit. I used solvent 646 for flushing, it is better to use gasoline

6. During the recirculation of the flushing fluid, it is necessary to twist the internal splines, at first this happens with great effort, then easily

7. After flushing, it is necessary to blow the coupling well with air to remove the solvent residues, while continuing to rotate by the internal splines

8. Into the washed and purged sleeve, into one of the screwdrivers we twist the oiler, through which we pump the PMS 10000 liquid with a syringe.
pump in until the PMS 10000 comes out of the other hole.

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From tyrnet - In my experience, after pouring PMS 10000, I performed an experiment - I hung one front wheel under the remaining three, put shoes on, turned on the scrubbing, the suspended wheel lazily rushed into idle, when gas was added, the revolutions were about 1500-2000 (2.5 diesel) the suspended wheel slightly accelerated, but the car practically got out of the shoes, i.e. the clutch performed its function.
From my experience - If he skidded specifically on the car for about 15 minutes .. like me in shit .. I would be very surprised at what he saw - the clutch stopped transmitting torque. For a car that sometimes goes on a fishing trip or to the dacha .. better than only 20,000 and no less. IMHO

A PHOTO of the disassembled, sawn, viscous, on page No. 3 of this topic .. post No. 22

Since failures occur, many owners will be interested in learning how to repair a viscous fan coupling with their own hands. Many car owners with such a device advise not to rush to throw it away, but try to repair it yourself. According to many of them, this is not difficult to do.

To begin with, it is advisable to get acquainted with its device and the principle of operation, and only then proceed with the repair work. The reasons for which they begin to pay attention to the viscous coupling are usually engine overheating during normal operation of the thermostat and other elements of the cooling system.

Do-it-yourself fan viscous coupling repair often it is necessary to perform after a long idle time of the engine, its long-term operation, as well as for some other reasons. Its installation on an internal combustion engine has one goal, it is a smooth increase in fan speed as the engine warms up. With an increase in the operating temperature of the coolant, the fan speed should increase.

A viscous coupling is a device, the principle of operation of which is the possibility of transmitting rotational motion by means of a special fluid that is pumped into it. It can be thought of as a small circular chamber filled with silicone-based grease. There are two shafts inside this chamber, and the principle of operation is as follows. The crankshaft makes a rotating motion, which is transmitted to the first shaft of the clutch. With increasing loads on the disc, its rotation speed becomes higher, this leads to an increase in the viscosity of the silicone inside the coupling.

The clutch is blocked, which leads to the rotation of the second disc, on the shaft of which the radiator cooling fan is mounted. Another principle for turning on this device is the temperature properties of the injected silicone grease. These properties are used to turn on the cooling fan when the motor temperature rises. With an increase in temperature, it is turned on, and when it is lowered, it is turned off.

The widespread use of the clutch on modern motors is due to its high reliability and safety. In case of careless handling of it, when the hand enters the rotation zone, it stops without damaging the hand.

There are very few such signs, but they exist, let's try to understand them. Most manuals for the operation and repair of cars advise you to check how the fan rotates when the engine is cold and hot. It is also stated there that on a cold engine, no special changes in the rotational speed are noticed during gas overload, but on a hot engine, on the contrary, it increases.

It is necessary to check the longitudinal play of the fan of the clutch, if any, it requires treatment. The appearance of extraneous noise during rotation may indicate a failure of the bearings. Faults also include aging of the packing glands.However, the most common type of malfunction is leakage of silicone fluid from the coupling housing.

Since fluid leaks from the clutch most often, let's talk about it first. To replenish it, you need to remove the viscous coupling from the water pump, and then proceed to disassemble it. On the removed device, under the spring plate, there is a filler hole for the working fluid. On the removed coupling, the pin is carefully pulled out and the missing amount of liquid is injected with a syringe. Most often, it is recommended to pour transmission oil into the clutch.

When refilling fluid, place the sleeve horizontally with the hole facing up. Approximately 10-15 ml is drawn into the syringe. liters of transmission oil and without a needle insert it into the filler hole. Squeeze out the liquid and wait for some time without removing the syringe from the hole. After that, wipe off excess oil from the surface of the clutch housing and put the pin in its place. The product is ready for further use.

The signal for such an operation is the noise in the area of ​​the radiator cooling fan. To repair it, the viscous coupling must be removed from the car. In most cars, it is mounted on a water pump pulley. This ensures reliable thermal contact with the coolant. It is necessary to unscrew the three bolts of its fastening, and it easily comes up from the engine compartment.

After that, you can start replacing the bearing. This operation can be performed only after complete disassembly of the unit and draining the liquid. In the future, it will be replaced with fresh one. The bearing must be removed only with a puller, otherwise the entire assembly may be damaged. After installing a new bearing, it is collected and filled with fluid.

Whatever happens, do not rush to throw away the old node and buy a new one, if it has not scattered at all. Do-it-yourself fan viscous coupling repair is an affordable operation that does not require special knowledge and tools. A bearing puller can be found from colleagues in the garage cooperative, the rest is not in short supply today.

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FalconPiter82 10 Feb 2009

I am writing my question again. There is a suspicion that the viscous coupling is faulty. The razdatka changed 2 months ago.

On a suspended car, when you turn one wheel, the others turn, but more slowly.

When the front part of the propeller shaft is twisted, the rear part also rotates.

Please tell us in detail how to properly check the serviceability of the viscous coupling without removing it from the machine.

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allexej 12 Feb 2009

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allexej 13 Feb 2009

It is possible to fix the front part of the universal joint on a suspended vehicle with the help of assemblies and try to scroll the rear part, the one behind the clutch. With great effort, the rear should turn very slowly.

I absolutely agree, of course it is possible, but for a simple man in the street, a simple and more understandable method is needed, isn't it.

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allexej 18 Feb 2009

We do not know a simpler method. The manufacturer does not disclose any procedures at all to test the performance of this unit.

And the information from the manufacturer, in fact, is not necessary - since we, at times, shame better than the manufacturers.

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Val 25 Apr 2009

I absolutely agree, of course it is possible, but for a simple man in the street, a simple and more understandable method is needed, isn't it.

Someone has already recommended a simple way to check without hanging the machine: along one line, make marks on the front and rear cardan closer to the viscous coupling (apply sealant, paint, felt-tip pen, etc.). then drive in a circle with a small radius (in one direction) and it will be visible if the marks are displaced relative to each other (i.e. no longer on the same line) then the viscous coupling has turned and is working as expected, if not, then the entire load has gone into the transfer case on the bearing and the gear pair. The task of the viscous coupling is to allow the universal joints to rotate relative to each other when a certain subcritical load for the distribution is reached.

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Restal 26 May 2009

Someone has already recommended a simple way to check without hanging the car: along one line, make marks on the front and rear universal joints closer to the viscous coupling (then drive in a circle with a small radius (in one direction) and it will be visible if the marks are displaced relative to each other (i.e. i.e. no longer on the same line) then the viscous coupling has turned and is working as expected,

I also find this method more logical and affordable. / experts recommend exactly this / It is not entirely easy to hang out the wheels alternately (I think so) It must be remembered that the Land Rover has a PERMANENT four-wheel drive. And finally! What does it mean to “scroll with effort”? With the effort of a hefty uncle or a "nerd" kid? And one more thing: the concept is “a little bit”. “About this”. “Okay”. Undignified

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BEN 31 May 2009

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Val 01 Jun 2009

If, nevertheless, the viscous coupling turned out to be inoperative! Are there any methods for determining how seriously this affected the distribution?

Hang the car on a lift, start, turn on the 2-3rd gear, listen to the noise level from the distributor, a normal distributor will not make noise with practically no load. And then be sure to drain the oil and see the presence of metal shavings (this is the shank gear teeth crumbling), the shank bearing with a jammed coupling also experiences multiple overloads. In general, in motion under load, strong noise from the distribution area will clearly be heard. In my opinion, a jammed clutch is a very rare case, why should it wedge, there is nothing to wedge, the disks are constantly, albeit slowly, moving relative to each other. The worst thing for a transfer case is not the clutch, but the installation on the front and rear axles of wheels of different dimensions.

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BEN 01 Jun 2009

Hang the car on a lift, start, turn on the 2-3rd gear, listen to the noise level from the distributor, a normal distributor will not make noise with practically no load. And then be sure to drain the oil and see the presence of metal shavings (this is the shank gear teeth crumbling), the shank bearing with a jammed coupling also experiences multiple overloads. In general, in motion under load, strong noise from the distribution area will clearly be heard. In my opinion, a jammed clutch is a very rare case, why should it wedge, there is nothing to wedge, the disks are constantly, albeit slowly, moving relative to each other. The worst thing for a transfer case is not the clutch, but the installation on the front and rear axles of wheels of different dimensions.

Thank you for the enlightenment on the clutch and RK. I didn’t hang it on the lift, but I didn’t seem to hear unnecessary sounds on the move. Auto recently from France. As he took it, he did not service it yet and did not change anything, only the battery and the alternator belt (he was too shaggy). But on the rubber - thoughtful. It is worth Dunlop, the dimensions correspond, all are the same, even the spare wheel (still new), but the wear on the rear axle is 3.4 millimeters more. If I understand something, Friel was originally front-wheel drive, it should be the other way around.
Thank you in advance for your consultation!

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fdsa1 09 Jul 2009

What it was originally, is not so important for the wear of the rubber. Because as soon as the front wheels begin to try to turn, the torque is redistributed to the rear axle.

I tried to spin the wheel on one side, it did not work, then I removed all the universal joints together with the clutch on the workbench and closed the front

part in yews and the back began to scroll with the gas key and the clutch began to scroll but very slowly

And the most interesting thing is that it was still turning itself by itself, all the same, what kind of effort should be applied?

Do I have a working clutch? I understand that the best way is to drive into the mud and try to slip

but I read a lot in the forum that the razdatka can fail, can all the same tell me how to check without installing it on the car?

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fdsa1 16 Jul 2009

Without setting, perhaps in any way. Someone wrote about the marks on the driveshaft, a really good way to check.

Hurray, so he saved his wife on boots, the viscous coupling is alive, they put dashes on the viscous coupling and on the front cardan

I drove in a circle with the steering wheel turned to failure once 5-6 laps made the lines diverged 90 degrees, so everything is okay.

It tells about the features of the automatic transmission device Land Rover Freelander 2, the reasons for system malfunctions.

Details on the website .http: //www.rover-club.by/forum/viewtopic.php? P = 584913 # 584913 Rover 75 1.8 engine repair. Replacing the head gasket.

Description and Tests of power steering fluid VMPAUTO GLOW PSF - Buy power steering fluid GLOW PSF - Promotion "Honest.

Replacing low beam lamps on a Land Rover Freelander 2 car, installing D1 35 W 6000k lamps I bought it here: https://alipromo.com/redir.

Repair of the rear gearbox in a garage. For repairs, I made special keys in advance to unscrew.

Basic steps to check in relation to RR
1. Gearbox in neutral, lift any one wheel and try to rotate it with hand force. Does not work? The clutch has already changed its characteristics. (From forums in England)
2. The service life of the clutch is about 90 thousand km (from forums in England)
3. When turning on dry asphalt, or better on metal plates that are placed between tram tracks, hear the squeak of rubber, which beeps to you that the front axle wheels cannot rotate at a different speed with the rear axle wheels. This opportunity is provided by the differential, which is in the transfer case, and the viscous coupling is for the viscous blocking of the differential.
4. Increased fuel consumption.
5. Increased wear of rubber, and the P38 is characterized by wear of the rear wheels from the inside to the court, while the outside remains with the tread.
6. The crosspieces of the front propeller shaft fail.
7. Yaw of the car on the road at speeds of about 60 km / h, when on the road there are alternating sections with different adhesion of the wheels to the road.
If you add up, then with a jammed clutch you get a car with a locked center differential with all the consequences.

We start repairs with the following:

1. We begin to repair a jammed clutch by removing it from the car, how to do this is in all repair manuals.
2. Drill two holes, as shown in the photo, symmetrically to each other
3.I cut M6 threads in the holes, see what comes out of the hole when blowing with air
4. Next, I assembled the flushing unit. Used solvent 646 for flushing
5.During the recirculation of the flushing fluid, it is necessary to twist the internal splines, at first this happens with great effort, then easily
6.After flushing, it is necessary to blow the coupling well with air to remove residual solvent, while continuing to rotate by the internal splines
7.In the washed and blown sleeve, into one of the screwdrivers we twist the oil can, through which we pump the PMS 10,000 liquid with a syringe
8., pump in until the PMS 10000 comes out of the other hole.
9. Next, we twist by the inner slots and wander, expelling the remaining air.
10. Screw the plugs into the holes.
11. Everything

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I do not know about sports, but on a vogue with 4.2 the viscous coupling is unscrewed AGAINST the hourly, and twisted clockwise.
4.4 and 4.2, I am sure, are identical in this moment.

The key for 36 is not just any, but a long and open-end wrench! (there are short options)

can be unscrewed without any adaptations and drilling, you just need 15 minutes of patience.

unscrewed and twisted personally already 5 times

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RANGE ROVER SPORT Series 2005

I do not know about sports, but on a vogue with 4.2 the viscous coupling is unscrewed AGAINST the hourly, and twisted clockwise.
4.4 and 4.2, I am sure, are identical in this moment.

The key for 36 is not just any, but a long and open-end wrench! (there are short options)

can be unscrewed without any adaptations and drilling, you just need 15 minutes of patience.
unscrewed and twisted personally already 5 times

If you do not know how to repair the fan viscous coupling with your own hands, then you should familiarize yourself with this material. Most motorists, whose vehicles are equipped with such a device, recommend not to rush to throw it out, but to start repairing it. Most of them are sure that this is not so difficult to do. The first step would be to understand how this clutch functions, and then you can do repair work. As a rule, they begin to pay attention to the viscous coupling after the power unit overheats, but the thermostat functions normally along with other elements of the cooling system.

Do-it-yourself fan viscous coupling repairs sometimes have to be performed immediately after the car has not started at all for a long time, as well as for a number of other reasons. The installation of the clutch is carried out in order to make the fan run faster when the engine speed rises. Accordingly, the higher the temperature of the antifreeze, the faster the fan should spin.

Viscous coupling - this is the name of a device that is necessary in order to transmit rotation using a specialized fluid previously pumped into it. At its core, it is a one-piece chamber made of round, and inside it is a lubricant, the base of which is made of silicone. There is a pair of shafts in the chamber, and the principle of operation is as follows: the crankshaft rotates, transmitting force to the primary shaft of the clutch. The higher the load on the disc, the stronger the rotational speed will be, which means that the viscosity of the silicone will increase significantly.

The clutch will be blocked, and in the meantime, the second disc will begin to rotate, on the shaft of which there will be a fan cooling the radiator. Such properties are necessary in order to turn on the fan as soon as the temperature of the power unit begins to rise. With an increase in temperature, it will constantly turn on, and as soon as it reaches the desired level, it will turn off.

The clutch is actively installed on power units, as it has a high level of safety and reliability. If you use it not too carefully, for example, a hand gets into it, it will stop, but nothing will happen to the hand. That is, the blow will not be too strong.

In fact, there are not many such signs, but they still exist, and they should be dealt with. Most of the instructions say that you need to check how the fan functions on a cold engine and on a hot one. In the same literature, it is indicated that on a cold engine there are no serious changes in terms of speed, but on a hot one, there are still some changes - the frequency increases.

It is necessary to check the longitudinal backlash. If it exists, it must be gotten rid of. Noises during rotation will indicate that the bearings are broken. Probably, there are also certain problems with sealing-type oil seals - they could have worn out corny. One of the most common breakdowns is fluid leakage from the coupling itself.

Since the most popular type of breakdown is leakage, we will talk about it now. In order to refill the viscous coupling, it must be dismantled, and then disassembled. On the dismantled device, you can see a spring, under which a filler neck is located.When the sleeve is removed, pull the pin out of it, and add the missing lubricant with a syringe. As a rule, the best way to pour the clutch is usually the oil intended for the transmission.

When adding lubricant, it is recommended to put the coupling so that the filler neck is on top. It is enough for the syringe to contain about fifteen milliliters of oil. Insert the syringe into the holes and press it. You do not need to pull it out of the neck right away, you should wait a little. Now you can wipe off what has dripped onto the coupling, after which it is mounted in its place. That's it, the device can be installed back.

The fact that it is time to start such work is indicated by the noise that will come from the place where the fan is located. As already mentioned, in order to repair the viscous coupling, it must be removed. There is absolutely nothing complicated in this, because it is enough just to unscrew three bolts, after which it easily rises up.

Then you can replace the bearing. The procedure can only be done if the unit is disassembled and all grease has been drained from it. The liquid is then filled in with a new one, and the bearing is removed with a puller. Install the bearing carefully so as not to damage anything. This is how the fan viscous coupling is repaired by hand. If you want, you can do it in just a couple of hours. You don't even need to drive your car into the garage.