In detail: do-it-yourself repair of car door dents from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Dent on the front right door with a crease in the edge of the door. To repair the dent without painting, it was necessary to remove the door trim and door handle. It took about 3 hours to remove the dent. The cost of this dent repair was 5000r
Dent on the rear right door. To straighten the dent without painting, it was necessary to remove the door trim. In time, the repair took about 2 hours. The cost of this dent repair was 3000r
Dents on the rear right door with breaks and damage to the paintwork. Also the door is made of aluminum. For repairs, it was necessary to disassemble the door, remove the trim and remove the door itself. At the end, the door was polished. Time spent on repairs one day. The cost of this door repair was 20,000 rubles.
Dent on the front left door with fractures and damage to the stiffener. To straighten the dents on the door, it was necessary to remove the door trim, remove the glass and remove the opening handle. Time spent on repairing dents about 5 hours. The cost of repairing a specific door was 9000r
Dent in the rear right door, not a simple damage with amplifier prints on the metal. For the repair, it was necessary to disassemble the door, remove the door trim and the door itself. It took about 4 hours to repair the dent on the door without painting. The cost of removing a dent on a Hyundai door was 6,500 rubles
Dent on the front left door with a crease. To repair the door without painting, it was necessary to remove the door trim and molding. The time taken to remove the dent without painting is about 5 hours. The cost of repairing the door without painting was 10,000 rubles
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Dent on the front right door. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim and the handle. It took about 4 hours to repair the dent without painting. The cost of straightening a dent on a door without painting is 6500 rubles
Dent on the rear left door. For repairs, it was necessary to remove the casing. It took about 1.5 hours to repair the dent without painting. The cost of repairing the dent was 5,000 rubles.
Dents on the front left door and front left fender. Not simple dents on the door, the gap between the wing and the door is offset. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim, glass, mirror and the door itself for the convenience of repair. It took about 10 hours to repair two elements. The cost of repairing the door was 9000 rubles, the cost of repairing the wing was 4500 rubles
Dent on the rear left door, stiffening rib. For repairs without painting, it was necessary to remove the door trim. It took about 3.5 hours to repair the dent without painting. The cost of repairing a dent without painting is 6500 rubles
Dent on the rear right door, break at the bottom and top. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the rubber cover, disassemble the door (remove the trim). It took about 3.5 hours to remove the dent. The cost of repairing a dent is 9,000 rubles
Dent in the rear right door, chopped dents located at the top of the door. To repair the door without painting, it was necessary to remove the trim and the door itself. It took about 3 hours to repair this dent. The cost of repairing dents is 6,000 rubles
Dent on the front right door. Extensive dent with damage to the upper stiffener. To repair the dent on the door, it was necessary to disassemble and remove it. It took about 4.5 hours to remove the dent. The cost of the repair was 10,000 rubles
Dent on the rear left door. Stiffening ribs are damaged.To repair the dent, it was necessary to disassemble the door and remove it. It took about 4.5 hours to remove the dent. The cost of repairing the dent was 9,500 rubles.
Dent on the rear right door, strong crease, damaged stiffener. For repairs, it was necessary to disassemble and remove the door. It took about 4.5 hours to repair the dent. Cost of work 8000 rubles
Dent on the front left door, damaged stiffener, as well as a dent near the molding. To remove these dents, it was necessary to remove the door trim and the door itself. Time was spent on repairs about 3 hours, the cost is 4500 rubles.
Dent on the front left door, intricate hall at the top. To remove the dent on this door, it was necessary to disassemble and remove it, for better performance of the work. Time was spent on repairs about 4 hours, the cost is 5500 rubles.
Dents on the front right door. To repair the dents on this door, it was necessary to remove the trim and the door itself. The time was spent for repairs about 3.5 hours, the cost of 5000 rubles.
Dent on the front left door. Strong crease at the top and door reinforcement imprinted. To repair the dent on this door, it was necessary to remove the trim, glass and the door itself. Time was spent, one working day, the cost of 15500 rubles.
Dent on the rear left door, not a nice break at the top. To fix the dent on this door, it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. Time was spent for repairs about 4 hours, the cost is 9000 rubles.
Dent on the front left door, in addition to the main dent, door reinforcement is imprinted. To remove the dent on this door, it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. Time was spent about 5 hours, the cost is 7000 rubles.
Dent on the rear left door, strong crease at the top. For the repair it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. It took about 5 hours to fix the dent on this door, the cost was 9000 rubles.
Dent on the front left door. To repair the dent on this door, it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. Time was spent about 2.5 hours, the cost is 3500 rubles.
There is a dent on the rear left door, a stiffener is jammed and a door reinforcement is imprinted. To remove the dent, it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. Time spent on repairs about 4 hours, cost 8000 rubles.
There is a dent on the front left door, the stiffener is badly damaged, and there is practically no access to the dent. To repair the dent on this door, it was necessary to remove the door trim and glass. Time was spent about 5 hours, the cost is 7000 rubles.
Dent on the rear left door, stiffeners badly damaged. It was extremely difficult to restore the upper rib. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim and the door itself. Time was spent about 5 hours, the cost of 10,000 rubles.
Dent on the front right door, stiffener badly damaged, door reinforcement imprinted. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim and the door itself, for the convenience of repair. Time spent on repairing this dent, about 7 hours. The cost is 10,000 rubles.
The dent on the rear right door, despite its size, is very difficult to repair. The stiffener is badly damaged. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim, glass and the door itself. It took about 3 hours to fix this dent, the cost was 4500 rubles.
Dent on the rear left door. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim and the door itself. It took about 3 hours to fix this dent, the cost of the repair was 6,000 rubles.
Dent on the rear right door, stiffeners badly damaged. For the repair, it was necessary to remove the door trim, glass and the door itself. Time was spent on repairing this dent about 4 hours, the cost is 8500 rubles.
Unfortunately, all elements of the external structure of the vehicle are not very strong, and therefore the question of how to correct the dent on the car door is quite relevant.
Most motorists prefer to have their car repaired and entrust the restoration of exterior coatings to specialists. However, all straightening work can be done at home. This will require special equipment, skill in working with it, as well as a suitable room.
Hood dent on the door of a Mazda carDo-it-yourself repair of damage on a car door is attractive because you do not have to wait several days for it to be repaired in a workshop, and also because you will spend significantly less money on such repairs. Most drivers, faced with the problem of a dent in the front or rear door of a car, want to fix it so that it does not require painting afterwards.... This desire is absolutely justified, because the painting will take additional time, materials and means, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to choose the color in which the car was painted before.
However, it should be borne in mind that straightening the door without subsequent painting is possible only in cases where the dent does not have strong chips, and the paintwork remains intact.
Suction cup - a tool for extracting dents on the bodyDo-it-yourself door repair using the heat treatment method is one of the most popular, and it is not surprising, because all the units necessary for it are inexpensive and can be purchased without any problems. So, all you need to repair is a powerful hairdryer and a can of compressed air. When choosing a hair dryer, it should be borne in mind that it will have to have sufficient power to warm up the problem area of the door to the required temperature. Therefore, it is best to give preference to industrial thermo guns.
Thermal option for removing stains on a carSo, in order to properly repair a dent on a car door with your own hands using a heat treatment method, you must act according to the following scheme:
- Prepare the car for repair. The entire problem area must be washed and dried, and all possible traces of corrosion must be removed. If possible, the damaged door can be removed and operated separately.
- Warm up the damaged area of the door evenly... In this case, it is very important not to overheat it. This is fraught with the fact that you damage the paintwork of the car.
- After the dent has warmed up evenly, it is necessary to start treating it with compressed air. To do this, simply shake the balloon and evenly treat the defect with air. In this case, it should be sprayed no more than 20 seconds. As soon as you see frost on the surface of the metal, it will mean that you need to stop. In this case, it is necessary to treat with compressed air not only the dent, but also a small area around it.
The essence of this method is that under the influence of a sharp change in temperature, the damaged metal will begin to smooth out by itself. However, it is far from the fact that the dent will disappear after the first cooling. If this does not happen, the door will need to be heated and cooled again.
The procedure must be repeated until the damage is completely eliminated (the number of repetitions, as a rule, depends on the size and complexity of the defect, as well as on the correctness of the work).
Sometimes, vacuum suction cups are used to repair a car door without painting it yourself. They are quite effective and completely safe for the paintwork of the part, but they may not always be used. The suction cup can pull out a shallow, even, round indentation, provided that it is not chipped. In this case, ideally, the shape and size of the suction cup and dents should be approximately the same. You can fix a flaw on the door of a car without painting by vacuum removing dents using the following algorithm:
- Prepare the vehicle for work. The damaged door itself does not need to be removed, but its entire outer surface must be thoroughly washed and dried.
- Apply a vacuum suction cup to the damaged area. In this case, all the edges of the suction cup must completely adhere to the deformed place.
- Pump out all the air from the resulting cavity (between the suction cup and the door surface). This will provide the necessary grip, which, however, will not damage the paintwork of the car in any way.
- Pull the suction cup in the desired direction. It will pull the metal behind it and align the door of your car.
It is quite common to repair a dent on a door without painting using several vacuum suction cups. It is relevant when the damage has an irregular shape.
If there are small pinpoints on the door of your car, and you do not want to remove the door or its inner lining, you can remove them using hooks and levers. A set of these tools can be purchased at any specialty store. As a rule, a standard kit includes two to three dozen of these tools. With their help, you can remove small defects without painting with your own hands at almost any point in the skin of the vehicle body..
Using hooks and levers to remove dents
This must be done according to the following scheme:
- Identify any dents to be repaired and start with the easiest and most accessible one.
- Choose the right tool (you should pay maximum attention to this, because otherwise you won't be able to remove the dent for a very long time).
- Insert the hook into the most convenient technical hole in the door and "feel" the dent with it.
- Gradually increasing the force, push the dent in the desired direction and squeeze it out. In this case, you can attach any solid object to the outside of the dent so that in case of excessive force, the metal is not bent in the opposite direction.
- After the repair of one dent without painting with your own hands is completed, you can start eliminating the next one.
If you do not have enough experience with this kind of tools, then before removing the dent on the car door, you can practice on already unused and unnecessary parts.
A traffic accident is an unpleasant event, and no one is immune from it. The impact affects various body parts of the body and often requires replacement of parts. In some cases, the body parts can be saved - the straightening of the car allows you to save on repairs and avoid replacement.
Restoring the geometry of body elements is not an easy task, but with certain skills, accuracy and patience, straightening can be done independently.
In body repair, straightening is the restoration of various body elements by correcting the geometry of parts using various tools. It is quite difficult to give the original shape of a body part, especially if the damage caused by an accident is significant. As a rule, such elements are straightened as:
- doors;
- front rear fenders;
- hood;
- trunk door (lid);
- roof;
- metal bumpers;
- thresholds.
It is not always advisable to carry out straightening work - it makes no sense to restore parts if:
- there is significant damage, it will take a long time to restore them;
- new spare parts in the store are inexpensive - it is cheaper and easier to replace the element.
Body parts can be restored using the simplest tool, as well as using professional fixtures and stands. Simple tools for restoring bodywork geometry include:
- hammers and mallets of various types;
- all kinds of supports (anvils, metal bars of all sizes);
- special spoons for pulling metal:
- levers and hooks;
- grinding tool.
There is also more sophisticated equipment, as well as whole sets of tools. The standard set of straightening equipment usually contains:
- hydraulic pumps and cylinders;
- nozzles of all shapes;
- shock plates;
- adapters.
In professional body repair, rack platform slipways and special stands are used. On special equipment, when restoring the geometry of the body element, the impact on the damaged areas with great effort and accuracy is achieved, the metal is straightened faster and with less labor costs, the straightening is better.
Body repairs, including straightening, can be made by resistance welding. In this case, a spotter is used as a tool - fasteners are welded onto the deformed surface, with the help of which the metal is pulled. If in the standard method for leveling the surface it is necessary to tap the iron from the inside, then thanks to resistance welding and a special device, the leveling of the metal surface is done outside.
Using a spotter has certain advantages:
- using contact welding is safer than a conventional welding machine, sparks practically do not fly from it;
- scale and slag do not form at the welding site, even thin metal is not burned through by the welding machine;
- fasteners can be welded several times, so fastening washers do not melt from welding;
- using a spotter increases productivity - the straightening process takes less time.
Spot welding machines are produced by various manufacturers - the equipment can be different in price, the cost depends on several factors:
The most famous companies that produce equipment are:
Using a spotter is especially beneficial in a large car service specializing in body repair. The principle of operation of the equipment is as follows:
- the area of the body surface that needs to be leveled is carefully cleaned of paintwork;
- the section of the body part is also cleaned, where the mass wire of the welding machine will be attached;
- after processing, the metal is cleaned with compressed air, the mass is established - the contact must be reliable;
- then fasteners (washers) are welded to the body surface in the damaged area;
- a hook for washers is installed on the reverse hammer;
- the metal in the damaged area is straightened as follows - the hook catches on the washer, and the iron is pulled out with a reverse hammer;
- then the washers are removed, the surface is protected and leveled.
For deep and large dents, an exhaust system is used, in this case:
- special washers with an extension are welded onto the surface to be repaired;
- a bar is inserted into the holes of the washers;
- an exhaust system is attached to the body, connected to the bar;
- why, by means of levers, the metal in the deformable area is pulled out.
Also, dents can be straightened using:
- needles for spot welding and reverse hammer;
- welding to the damaged area of the sprockets;
- Welding wave wire (for long and narrow damage areas).
The resistance welder can also be used for metal upsetting. In the conditions of a car workshop, the price of straightening with the help of a spotter is reduced - the work takes less time, straightening becomes less laborious.
In straightening work, hydraulics are often used - hydraulic stretchers and jacks, hydraulic cylinders, pumps. The hydraulic tool is included, the stretching allows you to create a force of up to 5 tons. With the help of hydraulics, luggage racks and hoods of cars are straightened, thresholds are leveled, and distortions of doorways are corrected.
If a dent has formed on the body (door, fender, roof), but the paintwork has not been damaged, you can correct the defect using a vacuum straightener. To straighten dents, a pneumatic or vacuum tool (suction cups) is used, this method is used to straighten so-called “claps” larger than 15-20 cm in diameter.
The advantage of this method is that after correcting the defect, painting is not required - the paintwork is not damaged, the work is done much faster than with conventional straightening. But vacuum extraction of dents requires a certain skill, and not every dent can be straightened.
With a strong desire, you can straighten body parts yourself, but you need to calculate your strength. If there is no relevant experience, the owner can spoil the appearance of his car, and in the future the car owner will only complicate the work of the masters.
As a rule, at home, the driver does not have special equipment, so a jack and a rubber hammer are mainly used for straightening. The easiest way will be to straighten small dents on your own, and if the body element is removable (front fender, door, hood), it is still better to remove it.
The easiest way to align the front fender yourself is to level the deformable surface, the part must first be removed from the car. After dismantling, the wing should be laid on a flat surface covered with a dense cloth (felt) - a soft base is needed here to cushion the impacts. When striking, you should regularly inspect the wing, check how it is possible to level the metal. If, as a result of straightening, the paint flies around, you need to prepare this area for painting - putty, sand, degrease and then prime.
To align the dents on the door, the body element must also be dismantled. After dismantling, the door is disassembled, the door trim is removed from it. If the dent is located approximately in the middle of the door lining, it is not difficult to eliminate the defect - the iron can be tapped out from the inside. “Garage diseases” are more difficult to cure, and the straightening here should still be entrusted to professionals - it is unlikely that you will be able to do the work with high quality on your own, and a thick layer of putty is not a way out, the putty may fall off.
- If a dent is formed on a part of the body with double metal, it will not be possible to level the surface with a hammer - it will not be possible to get to the external iron from the inside. In this case, you can qualitatively align the element using a spotter.
- If a “bang” has formed in the center of the rear / front wing or door, you can try to straighten it without using any tools - you need to sharply hit the iron from the inside with your hand. Of course, you can use a vacuum suction cup with a reverse hammer, but not everyone has this tool.
- It also happens that a body part (fender, door, hood, trunk lid) is damaged, which already has traces of corrosion. It makes no sense to straighten such an element, even because of poverty. It is better to drive with this defect for now and save money for repairs and a new part. Of course, in this case we are not talking about a serious accident.
- When leveling the surface, it is better not to apply single sharp blows, it should be hit lightly and often.
- There are body parts that are inexpensive, so straightening an old hood or front fender isn't always worth it. But there is one nuance here - non-original Chinese spare parts are sold for many foreign cars. If an original hood is installed on the car, and it can be aligned, then it is better to restore it than to buy a cheap "non-original", with which problems may arise: the iron will quickly rust, the part will be difficult to fit in its place.