Do-it-yourself deluxe water heater repair

In detail: do-it-yourself deluxe water heater repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Possible malfunctions of models W50V1, W80V1, W80VH1, W100

1) Generation of noise during heating

This is normal and occurs when liquid micro-boils on the surface of the heating element. Especially hard water - to solve this problem, it is recommended to install water softeners filters. During the supply of cold water, noise in the boiler (whistling in the safety check valve). Noise can be generated by pipes that are too thin or pressure mismatch. Increase the diameter of the pipes.

2) The boiler connected to the mains does not heat the water, the test lamp does not light up

No electricity - The problem will be solved as soon as the electricity supply is restored. The thermal switch has worked - disconnect the water heater from the electricity, remove the cover, press the thermal switch key until it clicks, put the cover back in position and connect the device to the network. In case of subsequent trips of the thermal switch, it is recommended to contact the service center.

3) The deluxe water heater connected to the mains does not heat the liquid, the test lamp does not go out

There was a breakdown of the heating element, a thermostat with a built-in thermal switch, etc. - you should contact the service center. The DHW shut-off valve from the system is broken or open - replacement is required or simply close the valve. The valve (valve) for the HW analysis is open - it is necessary to close the valve.

4) Continuously high leakage of liquid from the safety check valve

The pressure in the line is more than 0.6 MPa - it is recommended to install a reducer. Must be installed by a specialist from the service center. Valve breakage. Contact the technical center, they will replace with the same valve.

Video (click to play).

5) Very hot water with steam

Large scale build-up inside the boiler - remove the scale. There was a breakdown of the thermostat, thermo switch - replacement is required.

6) Reduction of the HW head from the Deluxe water heater, while the HW head has not changed

The opening of the safety check valve is clogged - dismantle the valve and rinse it with water. The hot water pipe clogged. Disconnect the appliance from the electrical network, drain the liquid from the boiler and call a specialist from the service center to clean the hot water pipe.

7) Hot water smells like sewage

Prolonged non-use of the device leads to the fact that the liquid stagnates and bacteria develop in it - rinse the heater tank well and in the future do not leave it for a long time without operation with water in the tank. The set temperature is too low (less than 55 degrees), bacteria develop in it - wash the tank well and then carry out preventive cleaning. A high content of excess sulphate in the liquid interacting with the anode - it is recommended to contact the technical service technicians for help.

8) Small water leakage through the drainage opening in the bottom cover

Condensation is normal when cold water flows into a hot tank. Depletion of the fastening of the rubberized seal on the tank - it is necessary to tighten the fasteners of the rubberized seal. The rubberized seal on the reservoir is worn out - it needs to be replaced.

The magnesium anode in the stainless steel tank of the Deluxe W50V1 storage water heater turned dust after three weeks of use.Is the water used really that hard? The instructions do not say anything about it (nor about its replacement), the place of its installation is called a drain pipe (I want to note that it is very convenient to drain water from it). Do you think a replacement is required?

I believe that replacement is not required, the anode is simply not needed. The magnesium anode has one purpose - to protect the device from destruction, and there can be no destruction in a stainless steel tank. With multiple drawbacks, these models actually have good stainless steel. I have never heard of a tank breakdown as a result of destruction. There were leaks, but most often this was the result of improper installation or factory defects.

Electric water heater Deluxe 80 liters. I connect the machine - the residual current device (RCD) is triggered. Does this indicate that the heating element has struck? Is it realistic to replace it? Where is it generally located? And then visually I can't even understand which side and what to unscrew (everything is sealed).

Heating element is suspected to be burned out. It is easy to understand. On the bottom cover you will see the manufacturer's sticker - there is a bolt under it. Unscrew it, remove the three plastic pads. The cover is retracted.

Carried out the installation and connection of a Deluxe storage water heater for 50 liters. Connected flexible pipes to cold and hot water supply. He began to fill the tank, unscrewed the HV valve and the HW valve on the mixer. I waited in the region of 30 minutes, the water from the hot valve did not flow, only air came out for a while. I started it, warmed it up to the maximum mark - when the HW valve was opened, hot liquid first flows for 10 seconds, and then disappears altogether. Tell me, what could it be?

You should immediately hear a hiss in a hot tap. Then after a while (well, not exactly 30 minutes), liquid should go from the hot valve. And only then can you connect to the mains. Otherwise, you, therefore, can burn the heating element if the device is not completely filled. Most likely, the safety valve is clogged.

Storage water heater Deluxe W80V1. It is used extremely rarely, but initially one fully heated tank was enough for two baths, and now one can hardly be typed. Now with water heated to 75 degrees, it is in standby mode. From above it is warm, from below it is cold. What is the cause and how can it be eliminated? The temperature on the screen shows 74 degrees, a thermometer in water displays.

Observe how often the device turns on, most likely a large amount of limescale. If you are sure that it is clean, then you can add the temperature using the thermostat. If you are not sure, it is recommended to remove the heating element and clean it. Do not forget to clean the tube in which the thermal sensor is located and change the magnesium anode, if you have one. The tube, with a high degree of probability, is worn out, through which hot water is drawn from above. In the future, you do not need to drain the water; you carry out preventive cleaning every year.

In operation, a Deluxe water heater for 100 liters, worked well for six months, in the morning a cold liquid began to drip. I looked, the indicator lamp was on, and the EVN was working. The temperature in the tank does not change. I didn’t drive it on dry and, it seems, there were no voltage drops, and even in use for only six months.

A lit indicator lamp indicates that the device is connected to the mains. Even if the heating element does not work, it continues to burn. You need to open the EVN and check the heating element.

The following question arose: I connected a Deluxe electric boiler for 30 liters. Everything, following the instructions. Launched in the evening, and, as they say, tested (swam). Things are good. Only a little leaked from the valve.At night I was awakened by the sound of pouring water. A trickle flowed from the safety valve. All cranes are open. As soon as I close the cold water, it does not leak. Who knows what could have happened? And yet, with regards to the plum. I unscrew the hot water valve, open the drain valve after the tank (in front of the valve) for cold water. Nothing. But there is water in the tank - it is full. What could it be?

Certainly overpressure in the line - activation of the safety valve. It is usually higher at night. In other words, you did everything correctly, and there is no breakdown, it is just that the pressure in the water supply system does not meet the requirements of the heater. It is recommended to install a reducer, but you can simply shut it off at night. If it does not work often, then you can connect a flexible pipe and bring it into the toilet or washbasin.

In everyday life we use an electric water heater Deluxe W80VH1. He worked for three years regularly, two days ago the heating element struck. On a native heating element, the magnesium anode is fixed on a metal rod, which is turned into the base. On the new heating element, there is no such fastening, the store advised to fix it with copper wire to the tube for the thermal relay. But with such a fastening, the heating element does not pass into the flange opening. I fixed it between the V-shaped tubes of the heating element. So I thought that with such work, the magnesium anode, as a result of destruction, will expand and damage the heating element. Am I thinking correctly, or can you leave everything as it is?

The most suitable option is not to put the anode at all, anyway you don't have a new device, just clean it more often. Third-party objects, especially metal ones, provoke the destruction of the inner tank. The magnesium anode does not expand, but rather narrows during operation.

Boiler (water heater) Deluxe 80 liters. The check valve has failed. The one that was included in the kit worked for two years. The spring has collapsed. Replaced with another. A few days later, at night, I was awakened by a gurgling sound. The valve does not hold. Disassembled. The spring is in place, but does not hold. Replaced again. Pressure 3 atmospheres. I have two cleaning filters installed in front of the tank. At the moment, the scheme is as follows - on the inlet pipe of the tank there is a check valve, then a ball valve. I plan to assemble as follows: Ball valve - check valve - ball valve. So that you don't have to drain the water to replace the valve. Is this allowed?

It is not necessary to drain the water when replacing the valve. The most important thing is to shut off the water supply to the device, release the pressure from it. And block the output of the GW from the EVN. Unscrew the valve: the liquid flows out in portions, intermittently, the pressure is small, 0.5 l has flowed out. and the water will stop flowing. There are several options for the development of events - substitute the container over the device or replace the valve.

This year we bought a Deluxe W100 storage water heater, it worked perfectly, but today it started to leak. Please advise what to do?

First of all, it is necessary to drain all the water, to do this, unscrew the flexible pipe of the hot water outlet, and close the cold water supply valve. Then open the drain valve (remembering to first place a container under the appliance or connect a tube and bring it into the toilet or sewer) and use it to drain all the liquid. After that, remove the bottom cover by unscrewing the four self-tapping screws that are hidden under the plugs, and the power cord fastener. Disconnect the wiring terminals and remove the five nuts.

Watch Andrey Rudnitsky's one-hour video in two parts on YouTube. The burned out electric storage water heater Polaris. Why did such a wonderful device work little? How to properly repair water heaters with your own hands?

Please note that brand names are disguised as American and little-known European ones.

Hard water in the USA.There, soda is extracted from lakes, and in Russia it is obtained by chemical means! The Stream 5 has a great tank. Resembles silver (antibacterial coating). In the video, the tank looks mirrored.

In artesian wells in Kiev, the indicator was 30 mg-eq / l, more than four times the norm. On the surface, the rigidity is also high. However, Polaris, which has served 1 year, is not covered with scale, the double heating element is in order, although there is no magnesium anode. The electronics work great. The device is inexpensive: 7,000 rubles.

power 5 kW;
tank volume 30 l;
working pressure 6 atm;
maximum temperature 75 ºС.

The inner lining of the tank turned out to be stainless steel. First note on the video:

If the tank is made of stainless steel of any quality, and the heating element is covered with a copper tube, then a galvanic pair is formed. The walls are slowly crumbling. It is impossible to operate such a storage water heater without a magnesium anode.

The thermostat probe is made of steel. If the heating element is made of the specified material, why do you need a magnesium anode? If there is a device with copper parts in the water supply network upstream, the electrode will protect the steel tank and heating element from destruction. In SP 40-108-2004 it is written that stainless steel is an exception in the fight against electrochemical corrosion, I have seen galvanic series, where the conclusion is inapplicable: everything was done according to the rules, but the heating element struck. Perhaps the tank turned out to be of a different type of steel, which was subject to destruction.

In addition to a stainless steel tank, protection against overheating and empty switch-on, the device's manual contains a 5-year manufacturer's warranty. Question: where was the device purchased, where is the service coupon? Either the case did not fall within the established framework, or the rules were violated. The author of the video says that he soldered the board, inserted thick adapters. Advice to readers:

In order for the repair of storage water heaters under warranty to take place without difficulties, inquire in advance which cases fall under the free service. Do not correct faults in the electrical circuit of the appliance if the warranty is valid.

The dealer's website says: The heating element of the device is copper. The instructions say:

The device has its own leakage protection, it is also recommended to use an external differential circuit breaker.
The housing must be grounded securely.

If you connect the Polaris Stream 5.0 water heater without grounding, the first minor breakdown will cause burnout of the PCB tracks. Moreover, the error signal will not sound.

To identify the presence of a leak, the instrument must have a ground in addition to the neutral conductor. If the input current is not equal to the output current, the protection is triggered. It is difficult to find a breakdown without grounding and when grounding is closed to a zero phase. Users of the storage water heater could not notice anything: they will not be shocked if the tank is at phase zero.

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So, as you can see, repairing water heaters with your own hands is a very real task. You just need to follow the instructions and be attentive to the details. Well, you didn't have to repair anything - treat the equipment with care, because this way it will serve you much longer!

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, periodically breaks down.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature.After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval 220-250 V.Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

damage to the internal tank has occurred;
the heating element has deteriorated;
leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs.This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
the appearance of impurities in tap water, changes in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

Disconnect the device from the power supply.
Remove the protective cover.
Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
Shut off cold water supply.
Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.
Remove the heating element and descale it.
Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
Rinse the device thoroughly.
Check the health of the magnesium anode.
If necessary, replace this element immediately.
Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
Install the heating element in place.
Reassemble the device.
Check the tightness of all fasteners.
Connect the water heater to the power supply.
Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

Video (click to play).

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center.Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.