Do-it-yourself repair of a water heater electrolux 80 liters

Warranty and post-warranty repair of Electrolux water heaters.

Electrolux Authorized Service Center.

Service partnership with the federal online store Rusklimat.

Device and repair of storage water heaters Electrolux
EWH Centurio, EWH Centurio digital (DL), EWH Centurio DL2, EWH Centurio IQ.

EWH Centurio water heaters are available in 30,50,80 and 100 liter models. Manufactured in China.

The most common failure of an EWH Centurio water heater is a heating element malfunction. Symptoms of malfunction: there is no heating of water or, more often, it knocks out the RCD either on the power cord or on the electrical panel. (Here you can see how to check the heating element) Cutting the RCD from the power cord is strictly prohibited. For repairs, we dismantle the water heater (be careful, the water is never completely drained). After dismantling, turn it upside down with fittings and remove the protective cover.

Then we gradually begin to remove the thermostats, the thermometer's power supply, unscrew all the nuts and remove the heating element mounting flange.

We take out the heating element from the tank. When replacing the heating element, the heating element gasket can be left unchanged. There was not a single case of leakage even with the secondary replacement of the heating element.

Putting everything in place and checking.

If there is no heating and temperature indication on the thermometer, then turn on the RCD on the power cord. Checking the safety thermostat.

If the emergency thermostat opens, the power button is pressed with little effort and an audible click.

View of the water heater inside.

The tank is solidly made of stainless steel. There is no corrosion protection anode. Apparently, the frequent failure of the heating element is due to the lack of an anode.

The second most common breakdown is that the thermometer display does not work. Repair is not possible without dismantling the bottom cover. In this case, it is necessary to replace the display power supply (thermometer).

The thermometer is made on a single microcircuit and an LED matrix, and practically does not fail. There are two independent electrical circuits in the water heater, one for heating the water, the other for measuring the temperature. Regardless of the health of the thermometer, the water is heated.

The “native” power supply unit can be replaced with an AC-DC network converter MeanWell IRM-05-5 (the most optimal option).

The third malfunction is a violation of the tightness of the water heater tank itself. As a rule, it occurs with an incorrect installation. Do not install a safety valve that relieves excess pressure. In this case, repair is not possible. (Purpose of the safety valve)

If the water heater is placed in a closed niche of a plumbing booth, or on a wall behind a non-removable decorative wall, repair is possible with an increase in repair time and labor intensity. In this case, the approach to repair is individual.

In this case, you need to unscrew the side screws for securing the bottom cover, where there is access, if there is no access to the screws, you can forcefully pull the bottom base and pull it off. Damage to the hull will be minimal.

Remove the bottom cover (after draining the water and dismantling the attached fittings).

Then disconnect the emergency thermostat, thermometer power supply, power cord clamp and thermostats. Then remove the power wires from the heating element and pulling downwards to dismantle the control panel.

Next, we gradually release the fastening nuts of the heating element ring clamp. It is imperative to substitute a container of at least 5 liters to drain water and sludge.Carefully remove the ring clamp and heating element.

The heating element mounting bolts are embedded, and if they are not foamed, they may fall out. The bolts are original, and in case of loss, it will be difficult to pick up.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. We install a heating element, a fixing ring, a control panel, an emergency thermostat, sensors with a clamp, restore the connections of the electrical circuit and close the bottom cover. We connect the water inlet and outlet, fill it with water, plug it into the mains and use it. Without water, plugging into the power grid is not permissible.

Recently, the quality of China water heater accessories has improved significantly.

When repairing, you can use double heating elements of the RF type on a stamped flange Ø64 mm, with a power of 1000 + 1000 W, 1200 + 800 W. Heating elements Thermowatt (Italy), Electron-T (Lvov), ITA are available.

Now it is possible to install dry heating elements, which do not come into contact with water during operation. To do this, instead of the heating element block, a flange is installed into which the heating elements of the hairpin type (2 pcs) are inserted.

An anode is attached to the flange to protect the tank seams. When installing this flange, there is no need to drain water when replacing heating elements.

Double tank design.

Identical storage water heaters with Electrolux EWH Centurio: Ballu BWH / S Nexus, BWH / S Nexus titanium; Zanussi ZWH / S BRILLIANTO, ZWH / S PREMIERO.

The differences between the EWH Centurio and EWH Centurio digital water heaters are quite significant. The tank is the same, except for the flange for the heating element, fastening bolts 5 pcs., Welded. Tubes for thermostats are welded into the tank. The body of the water heater is metal (and not plastic like that of centurio). Top and bottom covers are also metal.

The control panel is fixed with self-tapping screws under the panel's decorative sticker. Heating element "wet", double 1300/700 W. On a special stamped flange 64 mm. with one tube for a thermostat and the ability to install an anode, faston-type tips. The reliability of the heating element is slightly higher due to the installed anode. (Here you can see how to check the heating element) The power supply units of the EWH Centurio digital thermometer display are similar to the EWH centurio unit. If the display is faulty, the repair is the same with the EWH centurio.

The renovation is completely similar to the EWH centurio, but with some nuances. EWH centurio digital is more difficult to open due to the metal case and metal covers. The fastening screws are located not only on the side, but also two on the back. The heating element fails much less often (due to the presence of the anode), but problems arise with overheating and the operation of the emergency thermostat. This malfunction occurs due to the placement of thermostats and sensor. The working thermostat is located in the tube, in the immediate vicinity of the housing wall, and the emergency thermostat is located in the heating element tube. It turns out that the working thermostat is in a colder area than the safety thermostat. Accordingly, when the heating mode is set to maximum, the protective thermostat overheats, and the operating thermostat does not have time to react to heating.

Advice to the owners of this water heater is not to use heating with the maximum temperature. The temperature display is also incorrect (in fact, it shows the temperature of the case). Problems are eliminated by replacing the heating element with two tubes for thermostats and transferring the operating thermostat sensor from the tube on the body to the heating element tube. You can install a flange for dry heating elements in the same way as on the EWH centurio.

Since 2015, the design of the EWH Centurio DL water heater has been changed.

The bottom cover of the water heater has changed. A technological hatch was made in it to facilitate maintenance.

Screw terminals (in the previous modification Faston 6,3)

Removable pipes for supply and withdrawal of water, thread 1/2 ". These tubes can leak due to electrochemical corrosion. If the pipes themselves fail due to corrosion, it is possible to repair it by installing an annealed copper pipe ø12mm using transitional crimp connections ø12mm x 1/2 ″. As indicated on the website

The repair is completely similar to the EWH Centurio and EWH Royal models.

Identical storage water heaters with Electrolux EWH Centurio: Ballu BWH / S Nexus, BWH / S Nexus titanium; Zanussi ZWH / S BRILLIANTO, ZWH / S PREMIERO.

Automatic control of water temperature, electronic control, the possibility of vertical and horizontal installation.As an additional corrosion protection for the internal tank, the water heater is equipped with a magnesium anode. Available in volumes of 30,50,80 and 100 liters.

The bulk of claims for warranty repairs are related to the triggering of the overheating safety thermostat. In this case, the indication on the control panel of the water heater completely goes out, while the indicator on the RCD indicates the presence of voltage.

To solve this problem, you must turn on the safety thermostat. There is no need to drain the water for this. It is necessary to dismantle the bottom cover (fixed with two screws, closer to the back wall), the emergency thermostat is fixed with a nut on the fixing pin of the heating element ring clamp. The thermostat has a small button that you need to press lightly. As a rule, the problem with the emergency thermal protection does not appear again.

When installing the water heater horizontally, it is permissible to install the inlet and outlet pipes only to the right. When installing the water heater with the branch pipes to the left, the water heater is not completely filled with water, the heating element remains in the airlock, burns out, thermal protection is triggered.

It is strictly forbidden to turn it on when not connected, without water, even for a short time for testing. The heating element burns out and thermal protection is triggered.

Before switching on, it is necessary to check the filling of the water heater with water.

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An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is specifically designed to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element.The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not interfere with its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts.It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

• damage to the internal tank has occurred;
• the heating element has deteriorated;
• leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product.This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

• increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
• the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
• the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover.
3. Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
4. Shut off cold water supply.
5. Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
6. Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
7. Remove the heating element and descale it.
8. Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
9. Rinse the device thoroughly.
10. Check the health of the magnesium anode.
11. If necessary, replace this element immediately.
12. Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
13. Install the heating element in place.
14. Reassemble the device.
15. Check the tightness of all fasteners.
16. Connect the water heater to the power supply.
17. Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.

Poor water quality is considered to be the main cause of boiler breakdown. Because of this, scale forms on the surface of the heating element, the inner walls of the tank are susceptible to corrosion, which in the future entails more serious consequences and expensive repairs in the service center. In addition, the water heater may stop working due to improper connection to the power supply and the hot / cold water circuits.

As for the latter, when connecting the boiler, it is imperative to install a safety valve between the branch pipe coming out of the tank and the cold water supply pipe, which will protect the tank from rupture during a water hammer. You should also make the connection according to the instructions and, no less important, do not confuse where-what is connected. Sometimes situations arise that, if installed incorrectly, the water heater does not collect water. Please note that you should not panic in this case. It is better to take another look at how to properly connect the equipment to the pipes and, most likely, you will understand why your water is not collected.

So that you understand how to repair a storage water heater in different conditions, then we will separately consider how to repair all possible breakdowns with our own hands.

If the boiler does not heat the water to the required temperature, but still makes noise when turned on, it means that scale has formed on the heating element, which you need to clean yourself. This is not difficult to do, you just need to disconnect the equipment from the network, drain the water from the tank and disassemble the case to remove the heating element. You will not have any difficulties with disconnecting the plug from the outlet, but draining the water can make the repair a little more difficult. Immediately we recommend watching a video lesson, which shows a simple method for solving this problem: