Do-it-yourself repair of the thermex 50 water heater

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, a broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats.Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment.Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

• damage to the internal tank has occurred;
• the heating element has deteriorated;
• leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

• increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
• the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
• the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover.
3. Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
4. Shut off cold water supply.
5. Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
6. Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
7. Remove the heating element and descale it.
8. Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
9. Rinse the device thoroughly.
10. Check the health of the magnesium anode.
11. If necessary, replace this element immediately.
12. Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
13. Install the heating element in place.
14. Reassemble the device.
15. Check the tightness of all fasteners.
16. Connect the water heater to the power supply.
17. Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.

You won't surprise anyone with an electric water heater in a modern apartment. Residents of modern high-rise buildings do not want to depend on leaky communications and the whims of public utilities, and the owners of private houses simply have no other choice. These electronic assistants are produced by a large number of companies around the world. The products of the TERMEX company have earned great respect among users. They are reliable and economical, and thanks to the latest developments of the company, they have an increased resource. However, the quality of the water supplied to our homes, as well as the variability of the voltage and frequency of electricity, sometimes lead to boiler breakdowns. And then repair of water heaters Termeks inevitable.

All water heaters manufactured by TERMEX are divided into three groups:

• storage water heaters;
• instantaneous water heaters;
• flow-through storage water heaters.

The main components of the water heater

Water heaters Termeks storage type

The design of the storage-type Termeks water heaters is based on two steel tanks - an external and an internal one. The inner tank is covered with glass porcelain for protection against water.

This coating is applied by spraying and firing at a temperature of 850 o C. This material perfectly protects the inside of the tank from oxidation and corrosion. A flange is mounted in the lower part of the tank, in which electrical components and pipes for supplying cold and taking hot water are installed.

The space between the tanks is filled with heat-insulating material - high-density polyurethane foam. The outer steel tank is enamelled.

An indication and control unit is also installed on the external tank, for the convenience of using the device.

Tap water supplied to the boiler through the pressure line is heated by a tubular electric heater (TEN). The design of the heating element is a copper tube, inside which a spiral made of fechral wire is installed as a heater. The space between the coil and the tube is filled with a dielectric, a material with very low electrical conductivity. With the help of water heated in the tank, ion exchange takes place between the copper tube of the heating element and the steel parts of the Termeks water heater. In this case, the metal parts of the boiler corrode.To reduce this effect, a magnesium electrode is present in the water heater, which supplies ions to the water. Thus, ion exchange occurs mainly between the magnesium rod and the heating element, and then the metal parts of Termex suffer less.

However, the magnesium anode also disintegrates quite strongly. When it corrodes at all, nothing will help preserve the boiler metal. Periodic replacement of this element will allow your boiler to last much longer.

The design of the Termex water heater includes an adjustable thermostat with double protection. In case of overheating, the heating is automatically turned off (the thermal relay is triggered).

Water heaters Termeks flow-through type

They differ from those discussed above in smaller size, as well as in the design of the heaters. As a rule, these are ceramic heating elements (usually two, less often three or more) placed in a copper cylinder located inside the Termeks instantaneous water heater. The inlet is equipped with a pressure sensor that protects the device from overheating. The thermal sensor will also turn off the device if the temperature exceeds the permissible values.

Instantaneous storage water heaters Termeks

These water heaters have a small tank and heating elements of a different design than those of storage devices. In general, their design has incorporated the features of both flow-through and storage models.

There is nothing complicated in the design of Termeks electric water heaters, therefore there are only three types of breakdowns, however, each of them may have several reasons.

The boiler does not heat up the water at all, or it heats up too slowly

Most likely, the tubular electric heater has failed. It could either burn out completely, or became covered with scale to such an extent that the process of heat exchange between the heating element and water decreased.
The second reason may be a breakdown of the thermostat, which simply turned off the voltage supply to the heating element.

The third reason is that the control and monitoring unit has failed (if it is provided for by the design of the water heater).

The body of the Termex water heater is energized

Such a malfunction occurs when the heating element overheats due to a thick layer of scale. In this case, the tube of its body cracks, and water gets inside, in contact with the spiral, which is under tension.

Some breakdowns of the electronic control and monitoring unit (or the control board in simple water heaters) also lead to the boiler "being shocked".

Water leaking from the boiler

The device can leak if the heating element malfunctions, the seal cracks or the internal tank corrodes.

DIY repair of water heaters Termeks

First of all, you need to remove the boiler from the wall. This requires:

• disconnect the device from the AC mains;
• shut off the pressure line of the water heater (close the cold water supply tap);
• drain the water from the water heater (for this, a rubber hose is put on the drain pipe);
• open the check valve handle;
• unscrew the hot and cold water hoses;
• remove the Termeks boiler from the wall (it is not necessary to remove horizontal models).

For troubleshooting, the vertical water heater must be placed in a comfortable position (most often, repairs are carried out with the device turned upside down).

The procedure for further disassembly of Termeks storage water heaters is as follows:

• unscrew the protective cover (often fastening screws are hidden under the manufacturer's stickers). On upright models, the electronics cover is at the bottom. For horizontal models it is on the left, and for flow models it is usually located in front.
• remove fastons (contact tips) from the heating element and thermostat;
• unscrew the screws securing the heater and the safety thermostat;
• remove the thermostat and take out the temperature sensors from the heater case;
• disconnect the heating element, having previously unscrewed the six screws securing its flange.

Warning: The capillary tubes of the thermostat are a very thin and fragile structural element. Be very careful. A damaged tube cannot be repaired; the thermostat will have to be replaced.

Checking the functionality of the thermostat and thermostat

Water heater safety thermostat

In order to check the thermostat, you need a multimeter. We set the resistance measurement mode on it (the measurement limit is hundreds of kΩ). We measure the resistance between the input and output contacts of the thermostat. If the meter does not show anything, the thermostat is faulty. Most likely, the contact group in it has failed, and it will be impossible to repair it. Such a thermostat must be replaced with a similar one.

The safety thermostat can be tested using a regular lighter or matches. By pressing the button on its body, a flame is brought to the tip of the temperature sensor. A working thermostat will react by opening the contacts and pushing out the button. A defective device must be replaced without options.

Checking the health of the heating element

You will also need a multimeter to check the health of the heating element. On it, the resistance measurement mode is selected (the measurement limit is hundreds of ohms). The resistance at the contacts of the electric heater should be several tens of ohms.

If the device did not show anything, this indicates a break in the heating element inside.

The breakdown of electricity to the heating element housing is also measured. To do this, the multimeter is set to a measurement limit of thousands of ohms. When measuring the resistance between the contacts of the heater and the housing of the heating element, the multimeter must show infinitely high resistance, otherwise it will have to be replaced.

Checking the heating element with a multimeter

Elimination of leaks in the Termeks water heater

Find out where the leak is. If water leaks out from under the seams, cover or control and monitoring board, this is an indication of corrosion. In this case, the boiler cannot be repaired.

If water oozes out from under the gasket, it must be replaced by removing the heating element.

Having disassembled the Termeks water heater, pay attention to the condition of the flange. If it is badly corroded, it must be replaced. Also replace the magnesium anode if necessary.

Look at the condition of the thermal paste between the overheating sensor and the case. Replace it with a fresh one if necessary.

When installing the old heating element back, do not forget to descale it. To do this, stir the acetic acid in a ratio of no more than 1:10. Immerse the heating element in a hot solution. You can also rinse the inside of the tank with it. In order to reduce the formation of limescale on the elements of the water heater, install an additional filter on the pressure line. Do not forget that the formation of calcium and magnesium salts progresses with an increase in the temperature of the water in the tank. Therefore, set the thermostat to a temperature no higher than 70 ° C.

The “Termex” models refer to storage type water heaters. The main cause of breakdowns is most often poor-quality water in the pipeline. Unfortunately, because of this, the tank will have to be cleaned quite often. For example, if the water consumption is large, then the system is serviced once a year. However, it does not always make sense to call a specialist, repair of Termeks water heaters can be done by hand, having at your disposal a small baggage of knowledge, tools and spare parts.

Before proceeding with the repair of the boiler with our own hands, we will understand the design features. The device of the water heater is quite simple, the main components are as follows:

Diagram of the device of the Termeks water heater

• body made of stainless steel sheet;
• inner tank made of alloy steel, durable and corrosion resistant;
• the steel flange is a platform on which the device elements are attached: heating element, magnesium anode, thermostat;
• a large magnesium anode is a metal rod that is coated with a magnesium alloy; thus the element reduces the corrosiveness of the water, protecting the tank and increasing the durability of the water heater;
• stainless steel tube for hot water outlet;
• thermal insulation made of high density polyurethane foam;
• Heating element, which, in fact, heats the water;
• a thermostat acting as an automatic water temperature regulator (turns off the boiler when the water is heated, and vice versa);
• stainless steel cold water pipe.

The operation of the water tank is based on the convection principle:

Cold water always enters the storage water heater from below, when heated it rises up, where the hot water intake tube is located.

• cold water enters the tank through the inlet pipe;
• the heating element turns on and heats the water to the set temperature (there is a regulator on the dashboard with which the temperature is set);
• thanks to convection, hot water rises independently to the top of the tank;
• the hot water outlet pipe is located in the upper part of the device, through which the heated liquid enters the pipeline;
• when the temperature of the water in the tank drops, the thermostat turns on the heating element, and when it reaches the maximum, turns it off.

Since a boiler is a device with a simple design and principle of operation, it can have only four faults:

If the water heater is shocked, then you need to check it with a multimeter. To do this, place the contacts as in the figures, and set the multimeter to the sound dial mode, there is sound - the heating element needs to be replaced.

1. Water leak. The cause of this breakdown can be both the rotten body of the water heater and the failure of the heating element. But more often than not, the tank starts to leak due to loose rubber gaskets (they can stick on or simply deteriorate from time to time).
2. Breakdown of electricity to the case (the tank is shocked). The most common cause of such a malfunction is a burst heating element. But sometimes the ward or control panel fails.
3. The water in the boiler heats up slowly or does not heat up at all. If the tank does not heat the water at all, then most likely the reason lies in the thermostat (broken) or heating element (burned out), but the control board may also fail, which happens extremely rarely. If the water heats up slowly, then the heating element is covered with scale and it is time to clean it.
4. The water in the water heater cools down quickly. If this happens, get ready for the fact that you will have to buy a new tank, as the thermal insulation is outdated. Of course, you can try to change it yourself, but it's rather difficult.

Before proceeding with the repair, first collect the necessary tools: a set of keys, an adjustable wrench, electrical tape, various screwdrivers, pliers. After that, turn off the water by turning off the inlet and outlet taps to the water heater. Then drain the water from the boiler tank, disconnect it from the mains.

The next step is to dismantle the protective cover. If you have a vertically located boiler, then the lid is at the bottom, and in the case of a horizontally located one - on the left or in front.

First, do all of the above, remove the tank cap.

It should be noted that most of the "Termex" models have not one, but two heating elements. So it is imperative to remember how and in what sequence the parts need to be connected... And it is better to photograph the whole process.

To remove the heating elements from the Termeks water heater, remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolt; disconnect all plugs and unscrew the heating elements mounting bolts.

The heating element itself is turned off as follows:

• after removing the cover, find the safety thermostat, remove the tips from it;
• also remove the tips (3 pieces) from the heating element;
• cut the plastic clamp;
• unscrew the screws while removing the sensor;
• now disconnect the ribbon and unscrew the four screws;
• then it is necessary to dismantle the nut on the clamping bar and pull out the heating element.

Do not forget that the heating element does not always need to be changed.If the water in the tank still heats up, but it happens slowly, then, most likely, scale has formed on the heating element. Then dismantle it and descale it. Then install. The problem should go away. Also, do not forget that it is advisable to clean the heating element with chemical means, and not to scrape off the dirt. In the latter case, there is a possibility of damage to the part.

The thermostat in Termeks water heaters is located under the lid, next to one of the heating elements, and its sensor is located inside the tank.

Sometimes the thermostat fails. This element cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.... To replace, you need to make all the preparatory steps, remove the cover, then remove the thermostat. But before dismantling, we recommend that you check this part. To do this, use a lighter to heat the tip of the sensor (copper). If the thermostat is working properly, then you will hear a characteristic click, which means that the protection mechanism has worked and the circuit has opened. Otherwise, you will have to replace the part.

No matter how trite it may sound, but first you need to find where the water comes from. A lot depends on this, since if the tank is rotten, then you will have to buy a new water heater. So:

• if water oozes from the side seam, then the container is rusted, and repairs will not work;
• if water comes out from under the lid at the bottom, then you need to disassemble the tank.

If there are traces of leakage in the places where the heating elements are attached, then your water heater is not hopeless and it can be saved by replacing the gasket.

In the case of the second option, complete all preparatory steps, then remove the plastic cover. Next, take a close look at where the water seeps out. If it comes out near the flange, then the rubber gasket has deteriorated. (less often it is a problem with heating elements). Otherwise - the tank is rusted, the boiler can be thrown away. To replace the gaskets, you need to remove the heating element. But it is necessary to carefully consider the heating element itself. If it is cracked, then it is also better to replace it.

If you have checked and replaced all the parts, but the boiler still does not work, then it is quite possible that the electronics are out of order. The control board cannot be repaired, and it will be extremely difficult to find a similar one in a store. Therefore, in this case, we recommend contacting specialists.

In most cases, the "Termeks" water heater can be repaired independently, as it has a fairly simple design and principle of operation. The main causes of breakdown are inoperative heating elements or scale... It is necessary to pay attention to this first of all. If the boiler does not heat the water well, do not rush to the store and buy a new heating element. Perhaps the old one is simply covered with dirt and it is just enough to descale it. If the water heater leaks at the joints or the water in it cools down quickly, then you will have to buy a new device.

The world famous manufacturer of water heating equipment Termeks has launched production in Russia. The devices are simple, and a person with minimal locksmith skills can independently repair the Termeks water heaters. This is relevant, since it is not always possible to find service centers in the domestic open spaces. Having carefully studied the technical instructions, you can diagnose malfunctions.

The oldest concern for the production of hot water equipment for home use has been supplying its products to the country since 1995. It meets all international and Russian standards. The "Termeks" brand also includes the "Champion", "Quadro", "Blitz" devices. That is, their device is identical to the main brand. The Termex hot water equipment uses only electrical elements, wet and closed, as a heater. The product line includes;

• storage devices of various capacities;
• flow-through devices;
• combined, flow-through storage systems.

Timely cleaning and replacement of the anode will extend the life of the main element.

Regardless of the principle of accumulation and supply of water, the devices have common functional units, which eventually deteriorate, and repair of the Termeks water heater is required:

1. An accumulator consisting of a shell, an inner tank and an insulating layer between them. The inner vessel is made of galvanized steel or enamelled. Outer sheath made of powder-coated plastic or metal.
2. Heating complex in the form of one or two open elements and anode to each of them. The electrodes are mounted with fastening on one platform, which can be removed from the outside by unscrewing the fasteners.
3. Process control equipment - temperature sensor, thermostats, electronic control systems, safety valve.
4. Mounting gaskets, branch pipes, taps and valves for connecting the device to the system.
5. Wiring with fuses, shield, and network equipment, RCD and ground loop.

All internal storage tanks can be either enamelled or galvanized. All of them have a magnesium anode paired with a heating element.

Flow systems use a dry cell in a copper sheath, they do not accept scale, but they are destroyed if there are aluminum parts in the liner. Water passing through the aluminum radiator carries ions that will destroy the copper body of the heater.

The first sign of a malfunction will be the absence or weak heating of water in the reservoir or flow system. Possible malfunctions are analyzed. Repair of the water heater is required if:

• there is no signal about the power supply, there is no current in the electrical circuit;
• there is power, the indicator is on, and the water does not heat up - the heating element is out of order;
• the thermostat failed;
• there are leaks or fistulas;
• anode replacement is required.

For self-repair, you will need a minimum set of tools and spare parts for the device - a spare heating element complete with gaskets, a magnesium electrode and seals. To untwist the fasteners, you will need keys, for descaling - a brush, to examine the internal state of the enamel coating - a flashlight. Water heater Termeks 80 liters or another, do-it-yourself repair in a certain sequence:

Lack of grounding accelerates corrosion of all elements under water. In order not to corrode the tank, flanges are not worn out, a ground loop is necessary.

It should be noted that a leak in the storage tank cannot be eliminated for many reasons. The inner tank is enamelled, welding will destroy it. But another insurmountable difficulty is the three-layer structure, when it is impossible to dismantle the inner tank without damaging the thermal insulation and the upper shell. Therefore, you need to treat the tank with care, knowing that it cannot be repaired.

The quality of the main water allows an increased content of hardness salts. The concentration of magnesium and calcium salts, harmless to humans, precipitates on the surface of the heating element. The same layer of salts on the inner surface of the tank is not terrible. It increases the protective layer and becomes additional insulation. And the heating element needs to be cleaned annually, since the sediment does not conduct heat, the element overheats and fails. In an acidic solution of acetic or citric acid, the precipitate is destroyed, and the element becomes pure.

As a preventive measure against scale, you can use preliminary softening of water before feeding it into the water heater. For this, there are special water-purifying filters. It is imperative that a filter is placed on the water supply line to remove suspended solids from the water and direct them into the mud sump.

Even a small 50 liter Termex water heater is repaired by professionals if:

• the device is under warranty;
• an emergency shutdown is triggered;
• the electronic unit has reset the program, it can only be restarted by a specialist.

Sometimes the cause lies in a faulty bypass valve. If not cleaned regularly, it may become unusable. If the RCD fails, then it must be replaced.But at the same time, the RCD does not allow the system to turn on if a malfunction occurs somewhere in the circuit, the spiral burns out. The RCD is located on the supply cord in front of the plug.

Knowing the device of the water heater, carrying out timely maintenance of it, it is possible to ensure a long maintenance-free period of operation.