DIY water pump repair

Submersible pumping devices are very popular among the owners of private houses and summer residents, the principle of operation of which is based on the conversion of electrical energy into electromagnetic oscillations, that is, reciprocating movements. The most popular model of vibration equipment is the Trickle, produced by the Russian plant OJSC Livgidromash.

Due to active use, the device sometimes fails or works unsatisfactorily. In some cases, this problem requires the mandatory participation of a master, but most often you can carry out repairs yourself.

Vibration-type pumps have been serving people since Soviet times. Their production volume today exceeds 1 million units per year, while the demand for them has not yet been exhausted. Ease of use, affordable price and stable quality - allow you to compete in the pumping equipment market with foreign-made units.

Assembling the Vibratory Pump Trickle

Despite the positive qualities and high technical characteristics, repairing the Brook pump is a frequent procedure that has to be resorted to due to a breakdown. Before proceeding with the operations to restore the serviceable state, you should prepare a repair kit and other necessary tools, as well as understand the device and the principle of its operation.
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The vibrating pump consists of the following elements:

• electromagnet;
• frame;
• vibrator;
• electric drive;
• retainer;
• screws, washers, nuts;
• sleeve;
• clutch.

The design of the Brook has a classic layout - the electric drive is located at the bottom, and the suction openings are at the top. This allows for better cooling, eliminating the intake of impurities from the bottom. The unit operates without problems for a long time in a submerged state with the suction openings open to air.

The electromagnet, placed under the case, is formed from a winding and a U-shaped core, the material of which is steel of an electrical technical leaflet. The winding consists of 2 coils connected in series. The coil and winding are sealed with a compound that provides insulation, heat dissipation from the coils and anchoring.

The body protects against mechanical damage, the valve installed in it, the role of which is to close the inlet openings. When there is no pressure, the liquid flows freely through a special gap with a diameter of 0.6 mm to 0.8.

An anchor and a rod, pressed into it, form a vibrator. On the rod there is a shock absorber, a rubber spring, rigidly attached to the shaft with two nuts.

Pump Trickle, complete and sectional

Inside the shock absorber there is a bushing that limits the compression of the rubber spring. The diaphragm, also made of rubber, is positioned at a certain distance from the shock absorber. Its role is to provide additional support for the rod and its direction. The diaphragm also separates the electrical and hydraulic chambers from each other.
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Most models indicate: nominal flow - 0.12 l / s and nominal head - 40 m.Horizontal distance, which the brook can transport water, is 100 m. 1-1.5 cubic meters m per hour. The power consumed by the pump varies between 180-300 watts. The maximum current is 3.5 A, while the consumed current is practically not exceeded by the starting one.

The temperature of the pumped medium should not exceed 35 degrees Celsius.The pump is designed for operation with non-aggressive water, the permissible contamination is 0.001%. To provide the unit with the required parameters, it is recommended to complete it with hoses with an internal diameter of 19 mm or more. The use of hoses with a smaller cross-section increases the likelihood of overloading during pump operation, loss of performance, and breakdown.

Among the advantages of the pump are:

1. Customer oriented price. The cost of a hydraulic device has remained affordable for an ordinary buyer for a long time.
2. Ease of use, mobility. The weight of the device, not exceeding 4 kg, makes it easy to transport and use in any tank.
3. Ease of use. The hydraulic machine does not contain any electric motors, rotating elements, is not picky in maintenance, does not need preventive measures. It is not difficult to repair a vibration pump.
4. Profitability. To raise 1 cubic meter from a 10-meter depth, 0.2 kW of electricity is enough.
5. Versatility of application. The pump copes with the supply of water to the house, pumping out liquid from flooded basements, sewers, watering summer cottages. It is used for deepening and cleaning wells. The resource of the device will, of course, decrease.

When the unit is connected to a 50 Hz power supply, the armature is attracted to the core. Every half period, it is thrown back by the shock absorber. Thus, for 1 period of the current wave, the attraction of the armature occurs twice. Therefore, in 1 second, it is attracted a hundred times. Frequent vibration of the piston located on the armature rod is also observed.

Due to the volume limited by the valve and piston, a hydraulic chamber is formed. The actions in it are springy due to the elasticity of the pumped medium containing dissolved air and the vibrations of the piston. While the water is pushed into the discharge nozzle, and the spring expands and contracts, the valve ensures the entry of the liquid and through the suction holes - its exit.

The trickle pump in the kit has a nylon cable used for its fastening and installation. The cable protects the consumer from electric shock in case of insulation breakdown, since it does not conduct current.

It is not recommended to use a steel cable, as it abrades the body springs.

Repair of the vibrating unit begins with removing it from the well. Immerse an unstable pump in a container of water. Plug in and check the voltage. If it corresponds to 200 V, turn off the pump, drain the water and blow out the outlet with your mouth. Start disassembling.

Before that, it is recommended to mark the elements to be joined with a pencil or felt-tip pen, which will ensure the correct assembly and its efficiency. However, remember that if the device is under warranty, do not open the case yourself. In this case, be sure to contact the service center. Disassembly is carried out using a vice. They squeeze the ledges on the case, located near the screws. It is necessary to loosen the screws, as well as tighten, gradually.

At the first disassembly, it will not be superfluous to replace the screws with similar ones with a head for a convenient hexagon... These actions will further facilitate the assembly and disassembly of the device. To understand what we are dealing with, we propose to consider the most common causes of malfunctions.
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The pump emits a characteristic ringing sound. After disassembly, perform a thorough visual inspection. If, during inspection, an anchor print and a black spot are found on the surface of the electromagnet, this indicates that the anchor is hitting the surface of the magnet. This malfunction negatively affects the vibrator and leads to the combustion of the winding.

Disassembly of the pump and necessary tools

It is necessary to measure the distance from the fill cap to the magnet surface.The fill height should be 3.9 cm, but the value on the caliper is 4.9 cm, since the plank on the fill surface is 1 cm thick.

Then the vibrator is disassembled, the adjusting washer is replaced in accordance with the standard pouring height. For example, if it is 2.85 cm, then a 1.05 cm washer is required. The large sleeve is inserted into the shock absorber, and the small sleeve is inserted into the piston. After the pump is twisted, the screws are locked by punching.

Make sure that there is no skewing, screw the screws evenly and tightly, not tightening too much, so as not to narrow the gap between the armature and the magnet. Use measuring instruments to check the pump parameters. In the absence of knocking, a lifting height of at least 40 m, you managed to repair your unit successfully.
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The brook shakes badly and buzzes. This may be due to loose nuts or valve wear. In the first case, disassemble the pump, tighten the nuts until they stop. The top must be fixed to avoid a similar problem in the future. If, in the process, rust is found on the tie screws, use a grinder to neatly cut them off, replace with new ones with a hex head. In the second case, simply replace the valve, which is suitable for a cork from a medical bottle.
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The body is in contact with the borehole walls, the device is depressurized. As a result of blows against the borehole walls, which are equivalent to hammer blows, the body does not withstand the overload, heats up, the filling peels off from the magnet. If the unit was run dry, similar phenomena will be observed. It is necessary to remove the magnet, before separating the electrical part, cut shallow grooves over the entire surface with a grinder. Then it is lubricated with a sealant and returns to the housing in its place. This uses a press. Wait for the sealant to dry and reassemble the pump.
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When an insufficient intake occurs in the vibrator, the problem should be eliminated by adding washers to the vibrator. Their number is determined empirically until the required water pressure is restored. If the plugs knock out when connected, check the winding in the armature. In this case, most likely, it burned out and needs to be updated.

Vibrating pumps supplied complete with cable

When the cable is carbonized, a tester is needed to check for its serviceability. It also needs to be replaced. It should be said that not all models have such a procedure. In this case, the cable is extended by the twisting method.

When the rod (pumping mechanism) has broken or it has been destroyed due to mechanical stress, repair is inappropriate. Consider buying an analogue.
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Household submersible vibration pumps "Malysh", "Neptune", "Stream", "Harvest", "Strumok", "Bosna", "Dzhereltse" and others. DIY repair

Submersible vibration pumps have many positive qualities. However, they also have a minus: frequent breakdowns and malfunctions. Among them there are such as a valve break, an open traction, a short circuit, etc. But even if all these words do not give you an understanding of the essence of the problem, it is not necessary to immediately run to the master who will fix everything. You can try to figure it out yourself.

Submersible vibration pumps have many positive qualities. However, they also have a minus: frequent breakdowns and malfunctions. Among them there are such as a valve break, an open traction, a short circuit, etc. But even if all these words do not give you an understanding of the essence of the problem, it is not necessary to immediately run to the master who will fix everything. You can try to figure it out yourself.

Just don't start the repair at breakneck speed. Otherwise, when you fix one breakdown, you can commit another or completely ruin the pump, so that it will no longer work.And to prevent this from happening, first you need to understand how vibrating submersible pumps are arranged and what is the principle of their operation. Let's start with this.

The principle of operation and design of a submersible pump

The principle of operation of submersible pumps is to convert the alternating current strength into mechanical vibrations (vibrations) of the piston and armature. These vibrations promote the movement of water into the discharge pipe from the hydraulic chamber, which is located between the piston and the valve.

So, we now know how the pump works. It remains to figure out how it works and what these or those details are for. We will consider the device of a submersible vibration pump using the example of the “Trickle” brand. This will not prevent you from understanding the pumps of other brands, since they are arranged according to the same principle.

Complete assembly diagram of the submersible pump "Trickle"

The main parts of the pump:
- frame
- electromagnet
- vibrator

The electromagnet is fixed in the pump housing. The magnetic system itself is a core and two coils wound with copper wire. To fix it in the body, the electromagnet is poured with a compound. By the way, the compound is also an insulating and heat-dissipating material.

The vibrator of the pump consists of an armature, a rod, a shock absorber (rubber membrane). The stem is firmly inserted into the armature, and the shock absorber is installed from above, onto the stem. By the way, some important parameters of the submersible pump operation depend on the manufacturing quality of the shock absorber. The hydraulic and electrical chambers of the device are separated by a rubber diaphragm, which is fixed by a stop. She herself also serves as a support for the rod, determines its direction. A rubber piston is located on the top of the rod.

An important part of the pump is the rubber valve, which is located in the housing. It closes the holes for the water outlet, and in the absence of pressure in the device, it ensures its free flow.

Now you already know the pump device like the back of your hand, which means it's time to put your knowledge into practice and repair the device with your own hands, without contacting a specialist! And we will help you with the following instructions, in which we will tell you about the most common malfunctions, causes, as well as how to fix them. (We recommend that you refer to the diagram provided to you above.)

Reason 1: The fastening of the nuts located on the stem over the shock absorber is loose.

Remedy: Disassemble the pump, tighten the nuts until they stop. Counter (fix) the upper nut so that the fastening of the nuts does not loosen in the future. When disassembling the pump, you may encounter such a problem as rusty tie screws (M8x40). In this case, it will be unrealistic to remove them. However, this does not mean that repairs are impossible. You can use a grinder and just carefully cut them off, and after fixing the malfunction, replace them with hex head cap screws.

Reason 2: Valve wear, rupture

Remedy: Replace valve.

Reason 3: Broken stem

In this case, check what happened to the stem. If it is deformed or broken, it cannot be replaced.

Reason 1: Burnt armature winding

Remedy: Replace the winding with a new one.

Reason 2: Faulty cable

Remedy: Check the cable with a tester. If it is defective, replace it with a new one. However, it is not possible to replace the cable in all models of submersible pumps, since some models, for example "Kid", provide for filling the wire in the housing with a compound. If you are faced with just such a model, the cable can only be extended by the twisting method.

Cause: Operation without water, as a result of which delamination of the magnetic part of the pump occurs.

Remedy: The breakdown is quite serious and requires a lot of time and effort in its elimination. Disassemble the pump. Separate the electrical part. To check if the magnet is attached or peeled off, tap on the case.If you have this problem, separate the magnet from the case and use a grinder to cut grooves (2 mm) along and across. Also make grooves on the inside of the case. Next, you should cover the body from the inside with glue, sealant and insert a magnet inside. When everything is dry, proceed to collect the pump.

Cause: Insufficient clearance in the vibrator (or poor fastening of the nuts - see item 1)

Remedy: Add washers to the vibrator (11 - in the diagram). Determine the number of washers to add empirically, to the required water pressure.

Well, you learned about all the main features of submersible vibration pump breakdowns. Now you can repair the pumps of the brands “Malysh”, “Neptune”, “Stream”, “Harvest”, “Strumok”, “Bosna”, “Dzhereltse” and others yourself. Congratulations and wish you successful repairs and a long service life for your unit!

“A month ago, Expert analyzed. The same bullshit. breakage of the stem. I think they usually break off in the place where the piston is installed. At work, I pressed out the torn rod, the turner cut the internal thread on the main part of the rod, screwed on the workpiece tightly, cut the external thread in the place where the piston sits, welded the transition just in case, carefully trimmed it on the machine! Collected! All things! Works like new! This is all provided that there is no other damage (for example, defects in the rubber piston or diaphragm). "

Submersible vibration is very popular among gardeners and summer residents. pumps like "Kid", and other modifications that work on the same principle. They are inexpensive, productive, create a sufficiently high pressure and have a high pumpability (i.e., they can supply water over a sufficiently long distance). Unfortunately, these pumps are not very reliable. Moreover, their breakdowns are very diverse. Where the valves leak, where the thrust is cut off, problems with the pump winding, power magnet, short circuit or open circuit. There are quite a few simple malfunctions that are easily eliminated, but after repairs, for example, replacing rubber valves, the pump does not pump or pumps very weakly. Here you still need to correctly adjust and assemble the pump. To understand how to properly adjust the pump, we will consider the principle of operation and the important points of correct adjustment.

Working principle and design

Vibrating Submersible Pumps are inertial pumps. The operation of inertial pumps is based on the excitation of oscillatory processes in a liquid that contribute to its movement.

Design of all vibration pumps is of the same type. The pump consists of an electromagnet, a vibrator and a pump body.

The electromagnet consists of a U-shaped core assembled from sheet electrical steel and two coils wound with an enamelled copper wire.

The core with the coils is installed in the housing and sealed with epoxy. The compound serves to fix the core with coils in the housing, serves as an insulating material and provides heat removal from the coils to the housing, through which they are cooled.

The compound is prepared from epoxy resin, plasticizer, hardener and quartz sand, which improves thermal conductivity.

The vibrator consists of an anchor with a rod pressed into it. The rod has a rubber spring called a shock absorber. The parameters of the pump and its efficiency depend on the manufacturing quality of the shock absorber.

In the design of "Rucheyka" and "Baby", only natural rubber shock absorbers are used, which undergoes vulcanization for a long time. This ensures stable pump parameters.

A rubber diaphragm, installed at an appropriate distance from the shock absorber through a distance coupling, serves as an additional support for the rod and provides its direction. The diaphragm also separates the pressurized electric and hydraulic chambers. The stop provides compression and fixation of the diaphragm in the pump housing.
A rubber piston is attached to the end of the rod.

Finally, the final assembly is the pump casing with a valve that closes the inlets. There is also a 0.6-0.8 mm gap between the valve and the body, which ensures free flow of liquid in the absence of pressure.

The valve is also made of high quality rubber. It is the most vulnerable element in the pump and is the first to fail.

Vibrating pump great for irrigation systems, the construction of which was considered earlier.

How does a vibration pump work?

When the pump is connected to an electrical network with a current frequency of 50 Hz, the armature is attracted to the magnet. When the poles are magnetized, every half period, the shock absorber throws the armature back. That is, in one period of the current wave, for those who know electrical engineering, the armature is attracted 2 times. Accordingly, per second at a frequency of 50 Hz, the armature is attracted 100 times. The piston located on the same rod with the armature vibrates with the same frequency.

The volume in the pump casing, limited by the piston and the valve, forms the hydraulic chamber. Since the water pumped by the pumps is a two-component mixture containing dissolved and undissolved air, it has some elasticity - it is springy under mechanical action, which is what happens in the hydraulic chamber when the piston vibrates.

Water, like a spring, compresses and expands, and its surplus is pushed into the discharge pipe - in this way the pump pumps water. In this case, the valve allows water to enter and restricts the exit of water through the suction openings.

Pump modifications

Pump "Trickle" produced by JSC "Livgidromash" has a classic layout, i.e. the suction ports are at the top and the motor is at the bottom. This design has better cooling, eliminates the capture of impurities from the bottom. The pump can operate for a long time in a submerged state with the suction openings open to the air.

In this condition, according to international standards, the pump must work for 7 hours. Top suction pumps pass this test.

In critical cases, it is still worth purchasing pumps with a thermal relay, which will turn off the pump when it overheats. Overheating can occur in a limited amount or when the voltage rises above the permissible level. A pump with a thermostat will cost more.

Bavlenskiy plant "Electrodvigatel" satisfying the demand of discerning consumers, mastered the production of pumps "Kid" in several versions:
- "Kid" and "Kid K" - with the bottom arrangement of the suction holes (K - with thermal relay);
- "Kid M" - with the upper arrangement of the suction holes;
- "Malysh-3" - can be used in 3-inch wells, ie. wells equipped with a casing pipe with an inner diameter of 80 mm.
It is advisable to purchase pumps with a bottom arrangement of suction openings with a thermostat. Otherwise, they must not be left unattended. The popular opinion about the advantage of pumps with a lower water intake is that they can pump water from a shallower reservoir is controversial. The pump with top water intake can be positioned horizontally and will work perfectly.

The pumps must be equipped with a nylon cable for mounting and securing the pump. The nylon cable is not conductive and excludes electric shock in case of insulation breakdown. The use of a steel cable for securing leads to chafing of the lugs in the pump housing.

Although domestic pumps are produced according to the II class of protection against electric shock (- class II sign) and the insulation strength is tested with a voltage of 3750 V, it is better not to touch the electric pump connected to the network and not tempt fate.

If the wiring is equipped with grounding, then it is better to purchase pumps according to the 1st protection class, i.e. with euro plug. But these pumps are also more expensive.

PAY ATTENTION to fakes, when the pump is equipped with a Euro plug, and the wire is two-core, and even with a cross-section of 2x0.5mm, instead of the minimum allowable according to the international standard 2x0.75 mm.

Do not equip pumps with hoses with an internal bore less than 19 mm (3/4 ”). This leads to overloading of the pump and loss of performance.

Information on the parameters of vibration pumps from different manufacturers, indicated on the plates and in advertisements, is very contradictory.

Most domestic pumps are marked with a nominal head of 40 m at a nominal flow of -0.12 l / s (or 0.43 m3 / h).

On imported (Chinese) pumps, the maximum head is marked from 60 to 80 m. This is the head when the supply is completely shut off. In fact, all these pumps with a head of 40 m pump much less than the "Trickle" or "Malysh" pumps.

The maximum flow determined when vibration pumps are operating without pressure, depending on the adjustment, ranges from 1 to 1.5 m3 / h.

The power consumed by the pumps is indicated in the range from 180 to 300 W. In fact, the pumps adjusted to the rated parameters consume power from 190 to 220 W in the pressure range from 1 to 40 m. With increasing voltage, productivity, current and power increase. When the voltage is reduced to 200 V, performance is reduced by 25%. Thus, vibrating pumps can operate with voltage fluctuations inherent in rural areas and suburban areas.

The immersion depth indicated in the marking means to what level under the water layer the pump can submerge, in this case - 3 m.

Although the pump casing can withstand significantly higher pressure, they stopped at 3 meters. This is enough for the Bavlensk "Babies" and the Livensk "Brooks". If the pump is drowned deeper (up to 5-7 meters), there will be no problems.

During a short operation without immersion in water, the pump heats up and the aluminum housing expands out of proportion to the compound (epoxy filling of the magnet) and due to the lack of plasticity in the latter, the filling is detached from the pump housing. the situation is greatly aggravated by an increase in vibration during operation without water at all (during pumping out dry .. as a result, complete detachment of the magnet and the absence of a gap between the vibration piston and the magnet - no movement of the piston.

Treatment is simply impossible. it was performed in a car service on the occasion of being there

- first of all, we separate the electrical part (disassemble the vibration pump) by tapping with a hammer on the body, we are convinced that there is no fastening (the sound does not immediately feel the solidity of the contents) of the magnet .. we take it out of the body, make longitudinal and transverse grooves on it with a small grinder (depth less than 2- x millimeters), we make such grooves inside the case in a chaotic manner, then coat it with a thin layer of "glass" sealant (the one with which glasses are glued into foreign cars) - it is very durable and strong - ordinary sealants are up to it like the moon !! and press the magnet into the case using a press with a force of about 250-300 kilograms - (with less do not push in because of the viscosity of the sealant) I admit that instead of the sealant you can use some kind of adhesive, but I was at the auto service

hold until solidified and assemble in the reverse order ..

- First and foremost, if the valve and the piston are in good condition, this is the gap between the electromagnets of the coils and the piston, the gap should be 4-5 mm. If the gap is less, the coils will break if more the motor overheats. It is calculated as the difference between the depth of drowning of the iron of the coils in the body and the size of the protrusion of the iron of the piston above the rubberized flange-spring.

- The second valve should play freely on the stand, if you try to blow from the side of the water intake, the air should flow freely in both directions. The valve must not be damaged! It is advisable to unlock the rack from the outside with two nuts. This completes the valve.

- The third is the piston.It should also be free of mechanical damage and shape distortion, and be quite elastic. Rivet the nut with which it is fixed on the sleeve.

All this turned out to be very good, and the question lurked, why is it buzzing and not pumping? It turned out that inside the piston block, its sleeve (on which both the piston and part of the iron of the electromagnet sit) is screwed with a nut to a rubberized flange (such as a membrane-spring), and is disengaged with another nut. So, these two nuts completely unscrewed (((. In order to see this, it was only necessary to disassemble this unit, removing the piston, removing the gap adjustment washers, remove the thrust ring and pull off the rubber membrane (from the piston side!). Having removed the aluminum cylinder, firmly clamp the piston sleeve to the rubberized flange-spring, uncouple it, and collect everything back. We measure the gap, if it goes beyond 4-5 mm, then this sleeve has washers 0.5 mm thick, adding removing them from one side, we can change the gap in any direction.

We collect our happiness, special attention should be paid to the correct installation of the cover - the pipe through which the water comes out of the motor should be on the same side as the hole on the rubberized flange-spring))). We tighten, more precisely, we twist (collect) our miracle, and check. If the jet hits at least a meter (by immersing the motor in a full bucket of water, and plugging it into the mains), then everything is ok! If not, we disassemble, check everything over again.

A little from a lot of personal experience: the comrade from above said correctly about setting up the magnetic system, the gap is 4-5 mm. checked by a rod, the depth gauge rod to the end of the coils, and to the mating surface. then do the same on the moving system, the depth gauge rod on the rubber, but do not press, and on the end of the armature yoke. on the piston: it must be set as follows, the depth gauge rod to the edge of the piston contact, the end face to one of the four arms. we collect a movable system, a glass, rubber, a ring with four ears, we hold this ring as evenly as possible without distortions and presses, the depth gauge rod into it, the end to the edge of the piston, the data should converge with the body.

And in the end, the final assembly is the pump casing with a valve installed in it to close off the inlets. There is also a gap of 0.6-0.8 mm between the valve and the body, which ensures free flow of water in the absence of pressure.

The pump, as a device, has long become an indispensable "assistant" in the home life of residents of the private sector and owners of summer cottages. Among the leaders, in terms of price-quality ratio, there are undoubtedly submersible vibratory pumps, standardized according to one sample.

The high popularity and simple device of the trickle pump makes it possible to use it both in standard situations (watering, water intake from wells and wells, etc.) and in non-standard solutions (pumping out drain pits, using a "twin" for cleaning wells, etc.).

It is these loads that lead to premature breakdowns and failure of this device. But, thanks to the standardization and interchangeability of parts, spare parts, the maintainability of such pumps is at a high level, and with the necessary skills and some dexterity, almost 100% of the copies can be restored.

There is an opinion that the restored samples “do not run” for a long time and some of them break almost immediately. This is not entirely true, high-quality “troubleshooting” of parts, implementation of all required adjustments and compliance with technical conditions allow continuing operation for a period of at least 2 - 3 years, which fully justifies the repair of a trickle pump or its analogs.

The device of the trickle pump, design and principle of operation

For proper disassembly and repair, it is necessary to correctly understand some of the features of this type of device. Unlike centrifugal or “snail pumps”, vibro-pumps have no moving parts (in the traditional sense).The transmission of motion from the electrical part to the mechanical part occurs not due to shafts or gearboxes, but through the use of an electromagnet operating at the frequency of the network. This happens about 100 times per second, so all fluctuations have time to “smooth out” and a clean, stable head is obtained at the output.

Electrical part of the pump:

inductance coil, sealed (including the connection cable) in an aluminum casing using a special compound;
cable with a plug, (high class of moisture resistance);
there are reports of built-in protective electro-thermostats. but these are rather prototypes or experimental samples;

Mechanical part:

vibration-inertial unit, consisting of an armature-rod and a damping element;
high pressure chamber (pressure head);
low pressure chamber (suction);
polymer shock absorber for damping parasitic vibrations;
check valve, serves to prevent the passage of liquid when the pressure changes and the absence of reverse leakage when turned off;
an adjusting unit, this type of pump is very sensitive to changes in clearances. You can adjust the one you want using washers of various thicknesses;

The pump is cooled by being completely immersed in water. In versions with a lower location of the intake nozzle, there is a possibility of pumping out water to the level of the body. In this case, the pump works in a “dry” space, but during normal operation, the passage of a significant amount of water through the mechanism should provide sufficient cooling. This mode of operation is considered extreme and should be minimized, otherwise repair of the trickle pump is inevitable.

There are several main reasons for pump failure - vibration, violation of temperature and operating conditions, depressurization of the housing or supply cable, unacceptable dirt and impurities in the water. Sometimes a combination of two or more factors leads to the need to eliminate several causes of a malfunction at once, but usually the repair of a trickle pump begins with the following signs:

1) Almost a new pump, but the pressure and volume of the supplied water have dropped dramatically:

usually this is a simple depressurization of the case (4 fastening bolts have been loosened), and this is eliminated in a couple of minutes by tightening (cross-to-cross) nuts. You can slightly improve the design by using more vibration-resistant engravers or replacing ordinary nuts with self-locking (Teflon) ones;

loosening the center nut that holds the piston is also a common cause of problems with a new pump. Tightening with a control check of the clearances will completely restore operability;

violation of the gap between the coil and the armature, due to lapping of new parts. It is necessary to disassemble the pump, measure and restore the gap using shims. The plant recommends 4-4.5 mm, but practice shows that setting the gap is required empirically. The best results in terms of productivity and pressure are shown by adjustment according to the formula - the minimum clearance (at which the armature stops reaching the coil) + 1.5-2 mm;

detachment of the coil. This sometimes occurs as a factory defect or as a result of overheating (work without cooling). To be refurbished if necessary materials and tools are available. It is necessary to get the coil and make small and shallow cuts (no more than 5 mm) with a “grinder”. It is desirable that they communicate or be made in the form of a thread (for uniform filling of the glue). Many glue options are advised ("epoxy" + various fillers, etc.), but the best result was shown by car glue for gluing glass (you can contact a service station so as not to buy a whole tube). The glue is applied to the spool and pressed into the body with yews (gradually and carefully so that the body does not burst);

2) The pump shows no signs of "life", power is present:

the most likely cause is an open circuit in the cable or coil windings.If the damage to the cable is above the maximum water level, then it can be repaired simply by restoring the circuit and carefully insulating the break. If the damage is in water or in the place of expected water ingress - complete replacement of the cable;

an open or short circuit of the windings is the most difficult do-it-yourself trickle pump repair, as it requires special knowledge and skills. In case of such a defect, it is necessary to remove the coil and rewind it. To do this, it is necessary to heat the body (blowtorch or gas stove) and knock out the coil filled with compound. Use a chisel to remove the "epoxy" and provide access to the coil. If possible, it is necessary to accurately measure the wire diameter and count the number of turns, since there are no uniform recommendations for winding (the factory often uses a different wire diameter and, accordingly, a different number of turns). For accurate calculations, it is necessary to use reference books, you can also upgrade the pump and transfer it to power, for example, 36 volts, which will significantly increase the service life of the electrical part.

3) Prevention and maintenance:

Over time, the pump gradually loses its original characteristics, the head and productivity drop, and the noise level increases. Most likely, we are talking about the banal wear of the rubber parts of the feed mechanism. By changing the repair kit, pre-adjusting the valve to the seats, and performing the adjustment (it is necessary to ensure that the anchor does not knock on the coil, at various loads and maximum pressure), which may have to be repeated several times, the pump can be fully restored.

The trickle pump is one of a large family of modern pumping equipment. In this article, we have collected the most useful pump repair tips for you.

We have already mentioned more than once in our articles the most popular pump according to the reviews of our customers, the beloved pump of the Brook and its "brothers" according to the constructive solution of the pumping chamber of the "Kid" model.

You have already read articles with a complete overview of the places of application, design and technical features of the Brook 1 pump with a complete list of its main components and mechanisms of this frequenter of summer cottages and suburban areas.

Such an increased interest in these unusual hydraulic units arose not only due to their extraordinary solution in the design of the suction system, but also, to a greater extent, the unpretentiousness of these machines and their cheap and often home repair of these pumps.

The body is made of aluminum alloy, plus a simple core that moves due to an electromagnetic vibration in a copper coil, a rod that vibrates the piston, which in turn alternately sucks in and pushes out water, while driving the bypass valve in different positions. These are all the main mechanisms involved in pumping water.

Water pumps of this type are completely under the water column and are cooled by the liquid being washed. For this reason, they do not have complex emergency automation, they have small dimensions, and they are very easy for assembly and disassembly work.

In addition, each owner of such hydraulic machines can easily disassemble and independently figure out the breakdown of this simplest unit. Repairing a trickle pump at home is simple, since you do not need a higher level qualification to replace failed parts. It is + enough to have the simplest tools and basic skills in handling them.

• Low production price of the finished product, which has not changed significantly since the date of the release of the first batch of hydraulic machines, which is very beneficial for buyers.
• High mobility and unpretentiousness in operating conditions. The weight of the complete set does not exceed 4 kilograms, which is very convenient for assembling / disassembling and transporting the pump.
• Simple design and low level of assembly technology do not require special skills when using the installation and does not require additional costs for maintenance of mechanisms.
• High efficiency of the installation. To raise tons of water from a well, you have to use only 200 watts of electricity, which is comparable to an hour's burning of a medium-power incandescent lamp.
• Another important role in choosing this particular pump model is its high versatility in areas of application. The pump, in addition to supplying water to a house or an area during irrigation, can drain a flooded basement, or drain a channel for laying sewer pipes. With the help of vibration of the pump rod, they clean and deepen the bottom of the wells from the sand that has penetrated between the concrete rings of the formwork.

To begin with, let's get acquainted with the constituent details of the structure of the vibration mechanism from the device of the Trickle pump, at the same time we will see the possible procedure for disassembling and assembling this hydraulic machine, which, since the days of developed socialism, has helped all private traders in the delivery of water:

As can be clearly seen from the above diagram, vibratory pumps of the Trickle type consist of several main mechanisms:

1. Electric drives with an electromagnet and a coil of wires.
2. A vibrator consisting of numerous and essential parts.
3. Bypass valve retainer.
4. The bypass itself.
5. Two halves of body caps.
6. 4 fixing screws for the hardware.

The most complex and rich in small details in this circuit is the power set of the vibrator, which carries all the main shock loads that arise due to the oscillation of the rod in the magnetic field created by the electromagnetic coil.

All high-frequency impact forces are applied to the stem, armature, shock absorber, protective sleeve and stop.

The piston is constantly under the pressure of a resisting and incompressible fluid, moreover, through it, the bypass valve is moved to the position of opening and closing the pumping cavity to receive water and displace it into the outlet line.

To damp the frequent power vibrations of the rod and the entire mechanism, a rubber shock absorber with a limiting sleeve is provided in the design of the vibration pump.

Another rubber element of the pumping mechanism is a diaphragm, which is at some distance from the shock absorber. It supports the stem and guides it in a specific direction. But most importantly, this flexible rubber gasket separates the water part of the pump from the electrical one, and if it is damaged, a short circuit may occur with all understandable consequences for the pump itself and for living organisms in the aquatic environment next to the submersible pump.

The magnetic coil is powered through an electric cord that bypasses the water part of the hydraulic machine from above along the side of the body. The water intake takes place through the top of the pump through the lattice openings of the suction device with an elastic ring valve.

How to determine that your vibration-type pump has ceased to function normally, why does the Trickle pump not pump water?

So why does the Trickle pump pump water poorly? There are a number of reasons:

A possible factor was a decrease in the working stroke on the vibrator rod at its junction with the diaphragm and the piston. The distance of the free stroke of the piston has decreased, respectively, the working zone of the stroke of the diaphragm with the piston decreases and for this reason the pressure at the outlet from the pump decreases.

When removing the pump from the water, immediately place it in any container with water and check the voltage supply to the coil windings by connecting the unit to a 220 V network,

If, when checking the pump operation, you knocked out the plugs and the pump does not work, then you need to change the armature winding. After confirming that the electrical circuit is working properly, remove the pump from the container and blow out the inlet with your mouth to blow out any remaining water from the inside of the housing.

Apply control marks on the joint seam of 2 parts of the body using a moisture-resistant felt-tip pen or a metal tap. This will speed up the subsequent assembly of the product. Do not disassemble the unit that is under warranty, take it to the nearest service.

We clamp the ledge on the pump casing in the area of ​​the butt joint, where the fastening screws have been removed, in a locksmith's vice. We gradually loosen the screws from the slots. The screws have screwdriver heads, so take care of the slots. It is better to subsequently replace the screws with hexagon socket head bolts.

We disassemble the connections of the moving part of the pump and experimentally add a certain number of washers to the place where the rod and the coupling join.

With prolonged and intensive operation, it happens that the water pump Trickle begins to make sounds similar to the ringing of metal parts. To find out the reasons, you will also need to dismantle the hydrosystem.

A thorough visual inspection of the unit is required. In the case of detection of dark armature prints in the form of a dark spot on the winding magnet, this clearly indicates the stress of the armature on the magnet during the operation of the electrical mechanism. This can lead to breakdown of the winding and failure of the motor or mechanical destruction of the vibrator.

Use a vernier caliper to measure the distance between the fill cap and the surface of the magnetic bed. The standard height for the fill is 3.9 cm (the "rod" will be the figure of 4.9 cm due to the addition of the thickness of the plank on its surface by 1 cm).

Let's disassemble the vibrator itself into its constituent parts and replace the adjusting washer so that the total length of the structure is the standard value of 3.9 cm.For example: the filling height is 2.85 cm, we put a sleeve washer with a thickness of 1.05 cm, in total it will be 3.9 cm. Do not forget, the place for a large adjusting washer is bushings inside the shock absorber, small - in the piston. Locking the locking screws is done by punching the threads on the bolts.

When tightening the structure of the vibrator displacements and distortions must not be allowed its components so that there is no interference with the operation of the electric motor.

Sometimes the trickle pump "hums", but does not pump, this may be due to the loosening of the fastening nuts or the destruction of the bypass valve. In this case, it should be replaced and the fastening screw tightened. If you cannot rip off the rusted fastening screw, then use a grinder and cut it off, and then replace it with a new one - galvanized or stainless steel.

Repairing a valve or replacing it and repairing the power wire of an electromagnetic motor are the simplest types of repair work, but they also require partial disassembly of the pumping part and separation of the upper case from the lower, electrical one.

Rust streaks began to appear on the walls of the pump in the form of separate streams from the pump housing. This signals to us about the weakened sealing of the device, which can occur due to frequent blows of the pump casing against the walls of a narrow well or well. These micro-contacts can be compared to very frequent hammer blows (hundreds per second) on the pump housing. This can destroy the filling of the magnet. It is necessary to remove it, mark the grooves on the inside of the body, fill everything with sealant and install the magnet in its place.

We carry out these works on a completely de-energized unit, and after the sealant has solidified under the press and the two parts of the body are assembled, we check the tightness of the installation in a container with water by connecting the pump's electrical cord to a 220 V network.