Do-it-yourself Volga Cyber repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Volga Cyber repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Small repairs to the Volga, or how I spent the holidays

What has changed:
Steering rods RTS 92-10323 - 2 pcs.
Handlebars RTS 91-28004-2 and 91-28004-1
Valve cover gasket Chrysler 4777478
Spark plug gasket Crown 4777477
Sealant Victor Reinz 702457120

The steering rods went under the replacement (the left rod had a backlash and a knock appeared when the steering wheel swings. can be disassembled on one side: the tip is removed from the steering knuckle, the steering wheel is turned to one of the sides, we unscrew the lock nut from the rod and holding it with a key (I used a gas wrench) we unscrew the steering tip and remove the boot clamps and with the same gas wrench we unscrew the rod itself, rearrange the plastic washer The most difficult thing in my experience was to pull the steering rod boot from the driver's side, then the hands did not get through, then the boot sat down with a bias.

At the same time, the valve cover was changed. Because mine was cracked in the area of the PCV valve and oil was driven from there. I bought a cover with disassembly, a valve cover gasket, a spark plug gasket and Victor Reinz sealant.

Hello everyone, 95,000 km have been covered so far. with a penny.

I climbed this weekend, in fact, for the first time in my own suspension, diagnosed and looked at everything ourselves at a friend's service. On the ass on this run, I only needed to replace the silent blocks in the rear suspension strut with a trunnion (this is the silent block where the bottom of the shock absorber is inserted), as I understand it, it dies first for everyone. I must say right away that I could change everything completely, since there are all the original rear suspension arms from the donor, which I wrote about above.

Video (click to play).

Gave a P0340 error. And this means the kirdyk camshaft sensor.

- Order from China with unknown dates 900r

- Order with delivery month 1800r.

- Order with delivery in about 7 days 2100r.

- Order with delivery 2 days 3600.

I needed it quickly (I was planning to go on vacation to the mountain), so I took it for 3600r. Standard PC475 made in Mexico.

The most interesting thing is they say put the original everywhere. HM. I looked at 3 mopars in the store and all with the inscription made in China on the packaging. They cost 5000-6000 tr.

Well, I played a little with the film))) I think the plastic door panels with handles and window lifters on the armrest should be covered with it))) I don’t just want to bother with parsing the door.

So, THAT. Oil, filter and further down the list.

The service book that came with the car prescribed the replacement of the timing belt by 75000 km, which is a little strange. The fact is that the original timing belts installed on the conveyor take care of 100,000 km. On the Japanese, at least. For some, even the lamp lights up, “Change belt”. But those that are sold in stores, analogs, are nursed by 75,000 with the condition of replacing the tension and bypass. And then the original and 75000 km? Divorce, not otherwise. And for some reason, the same book recommended changing the attachment belts to 90000 km.

Biggest investment in Cyber suspension so far. It could still look like a lot, but the thundering upper ball at the front on the right said to change everything that the backlash / strumming / asks to change. And so he did.

-Front right lower arm (BAW 4929r, work 700r). It did not rattle, but the ball had a decent backlash, was afraid it would rip it out. An excellent lever according to reviews. It is also packed by the "branded" raibestos with its own labels. The left one changed a year ago, DLZ is in excellent condition, the mileage is 15 thousand, I recommend. Cost at that time 2900, like.

Torn anthers on the ball rear levers. Balls are normal. On the forum I read that they fit from the steering tips AZLK-2141. Bought, set, fit well. They cost a penny - like 20 rubles. I do not remember ))).

A very unpleasant knock appeared from behind on the right. Very. The master suggested that this is a stand, since everything else is normal. And then I just at random asked him to look at the shoe.It turned out she)))) And I already assumed spending on the rack (or rather a couple of them + a pair of supports, anthers, etc.). The peculiarity of the pad (inner rear) is that over time, the pressure spring rotts away from it and the pad simply dangles. Faced this in the summer. Then, too, began to blur from behind, but to the left. The way out is simple - we replace the old spring with a new one, made and fitted in place from a similar spring from the shoe of another car (in the service they are usually full of old ones), the spring is welded to the shoe.

At night it was -25 and in the morning the starter refused to spin, only chirped plaintively. I lit a cigarette and drove off. The next days it was warm and I allowed myself to fantasize about installing a non-native battery. A native one was available, but the price of 6500-7000 thousand rubles against the background of Tyumen batteries for 3-4 thousand was a little depressing and prompted the idea of confusion with adapters to the terminals. As a result, considering the costs of all manipulations with the terminals, I realized that it was not worth it (the benefit of 1.5 thousand is not so great), besides, the native battery is of very good quality and 75 a / h.

Even when buying on diagnostics, they said that the steering rods are weak and it is better to change them. But at that time they did not blur out and did not change, but quietly monitored the emech for a low price and ordered it as the spare part was found. Total ordered: 2 rods, the left tip (the right one changed in the spring) and the left stabilizer bar (it was damaged when replacing the control arm - they heated it to remove it). The right stub is normal. All spare parts were generalized in 2035r. The work is free (the master owed me 1000 rubles, so he did it on account of the debt).

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Gradually I began to hear in the yard on bumps or on a gravel road that the front suspension wasn’t exactly dull, but somehow not assembled, so I decided to change what I had been asking for a long time - I changed it sobssssno.

The generation of Volga cars begins in 1956, when the first GAZ 21 model rolled off the assembly line of the car plant. All Volgas were similar to each other - rear wheel drive with a classic rear axle, pivot front suspension, manual gearbox, minimum of electronics. And only the "Volga Cyber" is fundamentally different from all previous models.

But this is not surprising - there is practically nothing from the "Volga" in this car, the car is almost completely a "clone" of the American car Chrysler Sebring.

GAZ "Volga Cyber" - the same "Serbing", but the car has different optics and bumpers. Also, local designers have strengthened the front suspension, and there are practically no other differences. The maintainability of the car is at a fairly good level - there are a lot of spare parts on auto dismantlers, the owners of Cyber are completely satisfied with the car - it is comfortable and reliable.

The car was discontinued back in 2010, and you can buy Cyber only handheld.

Variant of the design of the car Volga Cyber

The Siber body is quite reliable - corrosion, unlike models 3110 or 31105, may not appear earlier than after 7 or 8 years, but original body parts are expensive. The Cyber body has to be repaired more often after an accident, and not because of the appearance of rust. You have to wait a long time for custom body parts, but fortunately, there are non-original spare parts for Chrysler, and many inexpensive parts are sold for disassembly.

What "sores" are mainly found in the "Chrysler" Volga?

Chrysler 2.4L ready-to-install engine for Volga Siber

To tighten or replace it, you have to remove the engine sump in any case. But crawling up to the crankcase is not difficult, and the job can be done in about three hours. The timing belt, like the water pump, is not very easy to change, and these parts need to be replaced at least once every 100-150 thousand km.

This is what the Volga Cyber timing belt looks like

There are even fewer complaints about the manual gearbox, which has been installed on the Cyber since April 2010, than about the automatic transmission.

The electrical part of American cars is not without problems, there are also characteristic malfunctions.The electronic control of the automatic transmission is considered a weak point. The electronic unit begins to "slow down" and "think", it is almost impossible to repair the control unit, the problem is solved by replacement.

There are no non-original automatic transmission control units, new "brains" cost a lot of money. But it is very good that there are showdowns of American cars - spare parts for them are sold inexpensively, and the necessary ECU can be bought several times cheaper.

Power windows often fail, due to low-quality fuel it gets clogged with dirt and the electric petrol pump fails. Fuel filters do not always help - fine particles still get into the electric motor.

Scheme of an electric petrol pump for the volga siber

The GAZ employees hid the battery so that you won't find it right away - it is located in the front left side of the body, almost in the front bumper. It is inconvenient and difficult to take out the battery, moreover, the terminals on it are on the side. There are two more disadvantages of this arrangement:

The battery is damaged in an accident immediately, even with a not very strong impact into this corner;
Due to such a specific arrangement of the terminals, it will not be possible to install a standard rechargeable battery on the Cyber, you will have to install only the same special battery. Although some car owners still manage to connect a standard battery, it is worth the pain.

The same problems occur with the electrical wiring on the Cyber as on any other car.

Self-intervention is often the culprit. For example, gas equipment was installed, and the wires were run nearby. The gas reducer began to touch the wire and rub it. This became the reason that one of the fuses in the mounting block constantly knocks out. Often, salt and reagents flying from the road get on the wiring - alkali causes the wires to short out. Radiators of air conditioners, cooling systems and heaters Gas 31105 also deteriorate from road reagents.

The front suspension on the "Cyber" is two-wishbone independent - there is no such massive rigid beam that all the "Volgas" had had for half a century before. The rear suspension is also completely different - it is multi-link. Unlike the GAZ 3110 and Gaz 31105 models, the Volga Cyber is front-wheel drive, and there is nothing to buzz in the rear suspension, but it is no longer possible to fix the GAZ Cyber so easily, and the Volgovodi are quite upset about this.

Brake Caliper for Cyber

If the ball joint for 31105 costs from 250 to 500 rubles, then the lower ball joint for Sebring costs from 2000 to 4800 rubles, and at the same time it is often sold on order, that is, you have to wait for the delivery of the part.

Disassembly helps out here again - used original spare parts often have a decent resource and can serve for a long time.

Usually we estimate the laboriousness of car maintenance by comparing them with the Lada-Priora, but here the starting point will be the previous GAZ model - the well-known Volga, which was the hero of this heading in ZR, 2007, No. 7.

The first question of a car enthusiast who opened the hood: where is the battery ?! If you follow the power wires, the ends of which are prudently brought out to the fuse box and the left mudguard (in case you have to "light up"), then you will be surprised: the battery was hidden behind the bumper. We remove the left front wheel and the front part of the wheel arch liner, for which we take out the cores, and then the bodies of the seven pistons, and unscrew three more screws. Here is a battery, and a rather rare type - with terminals on the side.

Of course, first we disconnect the "minus" and only then the "plus" - so as not to accidentally short-circuit it to "ground". Unscrew the nut and bolt of the pressure plate and take out the battery. Easy to say, try this exercise! It is unlikely that such a layout solution will be approved by those who live in cold regions and have to bring the battery home at night so that in the morning its capacity will be enough for a cold start.

Let's try to change the pads.Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the tension spring and turn out both caliper guides with a "7" hexagon. Having removed it from the bracket, we remove the outer block from the last, and the inner one from the piston, where it is held by a three-fingered plate. We remove the brake disc after we unscrew the bracket fasteners - two bolts under the key "17".

With the rear brakes it is not more difficult: by unscrewing the guide bolts with a key "13", we take out the bracket. We fix the outer block in it with a three-fingered plate, and insert the inner one, like in the front mechanism, with a similar plate into the piston. To replace the parking brake pads, we remove the disc drum, which sits freely on the studs. If you only need to adjust the handbrake, then the mechanism can be left unassembled. Having tucked in, remove the rubber plug from the brake shield and turn the nut of the sliding bar with a screwdriver until it lightly touches the drum pads. We orient ourselves by ear, rotating the jacked up wheel.

We change the oils in the units: for the drain plug of the engine you need a key "for 13", and for the filter, if it does not go by hand, any puller is suitable - there is enough space. If you are afraid that with such an arrangement of the filter it will inadvertently be pierced by a stone that flew out from under the wheel, cover it with some kind of protection, for example, a piece of the camera.

We suck the oil out of the machine with a syringe through the dipstick tube, because there is no drain plug in the unit. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the bolts securing the pallet and, after draining the remaining grease, change the filter. When assembling, we install a new gasket, and if it was not there (this option is also possible), we put the pallet on the sealant.

The factory does not provide for the replacement of the fuel filter, but the Chrysler spare parts catalog lists such a part (about $ 56) as part of the fuel pump. Obviously, changing it at least once every 90 thousand km, as required by the regulations for many foreign cars, will be cheaper than a complete pump ($ 370). In it, as practice shows, due to a filter clogged with dirt, an electric motor can burn out.

To replace the pump, you will have to remove the gas tank, because, alas, there is no hatch in the floor under the rear seat. We believe it fair to lower the mark for this operation.

But it turned out to be easy to change the air filter or candles, as well as the coolant. There is a drain plug on the radiator, which can be reached from above, and under it is a hole in the bumper, thanks to which the liquid comes out in an even stream. If there were a faucet on the engine block, and not a plug for a hexagon "8", then it would be great at all. Fill in fresh fluid after replacing the timing belt.

First, we remove the poly V-belt of the ancillary drive, but getting close to the automatic tensioner in order to take it off and loosen the belt is very difficult in such tightness.

Let's clear the passage from "unnecessary" details. We unscrew the fasteners of the power steering tank and, lifting it until the antennae comes out of the groove in the expansion tank, we take it to the side. Next, we unscrew the bolt securing the air conditioner condenser to the expansion tank and a couple of bolts that secure the tank itself to the mudguard. Having disconnected the steam pipe, we take it out, bending around obstacles and trying not to splash antifreeze.

The path to the automatic tensioner is now clear. But inserting a square of a standard wrench or ratchet into it to move the roller in accordance with the designers' intention does not give a closely located spar.

A piece of a square half-inch profile 10-15 mm long will help out. We insert one end into the movable sector of the tensioner, and on the other we put on an open-end wrench. Submitting it clockwise, we combine the holes in the sectors where we insert the check, for example, a nail. Next, we remove the plastic mudguard of the engine compartment, taking out the cores, and then the bodies of ten caps, and, removing from the pulleys, we take out the belt.

Another way is to dislodge the tensioner by pulling on the branch between the pulleys in the same way as pulling the bowstring, and slide the belt off the nearest pulley.The reverse process is no less tricky: putting a belt on all pulleys, except for one, the tensioner is shifted with a mounting blade, achieving the formation of the necessary loop, which is thrown over the last pulley. Keep in mind: these techniques require skill and accuracy, otherwise you will scar the rollers or tear the belt itself.

Further advancement to the timing drive is hindered by the air conditioner tubes - they enter the evaporator very nearby. It is dangerous to bend the pipes - they can burst, and if they are disconnected, then it will be necessary to charge the system with refrigerant. Therefore, we unscrew the upper timing case cover and remove it very carefully.

Having removed the crankshaft pulley bolt, we combine the marks (on the camshaft toothed pulleys, they should be strictly opposite each other), after which, having turned the bolt out to the end, remove the pulley, and then the lower casing cover. We did not accidentally leave the cooling system without fluid until we replaced the timing belt, since it was the time to remove the tubes to the heater - they do not allow removing the power unit support. But before unscrewing the bolts of its fastening, support the motor with a jack through a wooden spacer or hang it by the eye bar.

In garage conditions, the first is preferable, since after removing the support and the middle cover of the timing case to which it is attached, you need to raise the power unit as far as communications will allow (usually 10–20 cm). Otherwise, because of the same ill-fated spar, you cannot get to the tension roller.

We change it, like the run-in, unconditionally, and carefully check the pump - even a slight play or roll of the bearing balls serve as indications for replacing the assembly. The tensioner roller is equipped with a semiautomatic device, which must be preloaded. Let's combine the marks on the movable and fixed sectors, and then he himself will hold on to the belt as expected.

Although the assembly is more fun and the rest of the consumables change without much difficulty, Cyber plunged into despondency. No, the car itself, of course, is good and modern, but if we correlate the laboriousness of its maintenance with the scarcity of service in the provinces, it is easy to imagine the gloomy faces of those owners who are accustomed to repairing their Volga on their own.

We are grateful to the company "AVTOMIR on Dmitrovka" for help in preparing the material.

We know the answer to your request for Cyber Volga Repair - see here. Diagnostics, repair and maintenance of a car with your own hands.

How to repair a car with your own hands at home. We will help ourselves to repair and repair the car ourselves. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I attach a video instruction.

Category: Car repair video

Laughter in the subject: - Fima, will you punish me tonight? - Come on, Sophie, you are not guilty of anything.

Posted by Admin: at the request of Khosroya

The opinion of the car owner: Excellent steers, low fuel consumption: I have 7.4 liters around the city and on the highway, comfortable front seats, with a daily mileage of 700-800 km on the highway, you do not get tired. Large convertible trunk when driving together. During the operation, there were no breakdowns and problems, I drove the Juka on different roads and at full load, a very reliable car.

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Usually we estimate the laboriousness of car maintenance by comparing them with the Lada-Priora, but here the starting point will be the previous GAZ model - the well-known Volga

The first question of a car enthusiast who opened the hood: where is the battery ?! If you follow the power wires, the ends of which are prudently brought out to the fuse box and the left mudguard (in case you have to “light up”), then you will be surprised: the battery was hidden behind the bumper. We remove the left front wheel and the front part of the wheel arch liner, for which we take out the cores, and then the bodies of the seven pistons, and unscrew three more screws. Here is a battery, and a rather rare type - with terminals on the side.

Of course, first we disconnect the "minus" and only then the "plus" - so as not to accidentally short-circuit it to "ground". Unscrew the nut and bolt of the pressure plate and take out the battery. Easy to say, try THIS exercise! It is unlikely that such a layout solution will be approved by those who live in cold regions and have to bring the battery home at night so that in the morning its capacity will be enough for a cold start.

Let's try to change the pads. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the tension spring and turn out both caliper guides with a "7" hexagon. Having removed it from the bracket, we remove the outer block from the last, and the inner one from the piston, where it is held by a three-fingered plate. We remove the brake disc after we unscrew the bracket fasteners - two bolts under the key "17".

With the rear brakes, it is not more difficult: unscrewing the guide bolts with a key "13", take out the bracket.We fix the outer block in it with a three-fingered plate, and insert the inner one, like in the front mechanism, with a similar plate into the piston. To replace the parking brake pads, we remove the disc drum, which sits freely on the studs. If you only need to adjust the handbrake, then the mechanism can be left unassembled. Having tucked in, remove the rubber plug from the brake shield and turn the nut of the sliding bar with a screwdriver until it lightly touches the drum pads. We orient ourselves by ear, rotating the jacked up wheel.

The factory does not provide for the replacement of the fuel filter, but the Chrysler spare parts catalog lists such a part (about $ 56) as part of the fuel pump. Obviously, changing it at least once every 90 thousand km, as required by the regulations for many foreign cars, will be cheaper than a complete pump ($ 370). In him. as practice shows, due to a filter clogged with dirt, the electric motor can burn out.

To replace the pump, you will have to remove the gas tank, because, alas, there is no hatch in the floor under the rear seat. We believe it fair to lower the mark for this operation.

First, we remove the poly V-belt of the ancillary drive, but getting close to the automatic tensioner in order to take it off and loosen the belt is very difficult in such tightness.

Let's clear the passage from "unnecessary" details. We unscrew the fasteners of the power steering tank and, lifting it until the antennae comes out of the cash in the expansion tank, we take it to the side. Next, we unscrew the bolt securing the air conditioner condenser to the expansion tank and a couple of bolts that secure the tank itself to the mudguard. Having disconnected the steam pipe, we take it out, bypassing obstacles and trying not to splash antifreeze.

Another way is to displace the tensioner. pulling the branch between the pulleys in the same way as pulling the bowstring, and slide the belt off the nearest pulley. The reverse process is no less tricky: putting the belt on all the pulleys, except for one, mix the tensioner with a mounting blade, achieving the formation of the necessary loop, which is thrown over the last pulley. Keep in mind: these techniques require skill and accuracy, otherwise you will scar the rollers or tear the belt itself.

Further advancement to the timing drive is hindered by the air conditioner tubes - they enter the evaporator very nearby. It is dangerous to bend the pipes - they can burst, and if they are disconnected, then it will be necessary to charge the system with refrigerant.Therefore, we unscrew the top cover of the timing case and take it out very carefully.

In garage conditions, the first is preferable, since after removing the support and the middle cover of the timing case. to which it rolls, you need to raise the power unit as far as communications will allow (usually 10-20 cm). Otherwise, because of the same ill-fated spar, you cannot get to the tension roller.