If we discuss the problem of interest to us regarding the front-wheel drive VAZ, then it is enough just to consider what are the differences from the given instructions. The tools are the same here.
However, for example, for a VAZ 2109 starter, when repairing with your own hands, you do not need to disconnect the exhaust pipe during dismantling from the car. Further manipulations are carried out in the same way as described above.
Naturally, the repair of such a VAZ 2108 starter with your own hands is done according to a similar scenario. When repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, it is easier to immediately remove the retractor relay when dismantling the unit from the car by unscrewing the corresponding nuts.
However, in the case of repairing the starter at the VAZ 2115 with your own hands, the electric motor can be dismantled immediately along with the retraction cylinder.
By the way, it is not necessary to replace this completely assembled cylinder in the event of a breakdown. You can also repair the starter retractor relay with your own hands. To do this, you need to disassemble it, inspect the retraction winding, the return spring, replace the failed parts. As for domestic cars, UAZ repairs can be performed according to the instructions given by VAZ.
And now let's touch on two more truly popular cars. Let's talk about iterating over the starting element on the Oka, as well as Nexia.
We start by dismantling the unit, it is located under the thermostat of the cooling system.
These are some simple manipulations.
I must say that in such a small car, such as the Tavria, the fastening of our cherished electric motor is also made at two points, and its design is similar. Therefore, do-it-yourself repairs at Tavria are carried out in the same way.
Well, it is somehow easier with Oka and Tavria, but if the starting unit of another people's car breaks down, will it be more difficult? Let's see. To repair a starter from Daewoo Nexia with your own hands, you need to prepare:
The same can be said about repairing a starter, for example, an Audi 80 with your own hands. There you need to act, practically repeating the above points.
However, not everyone decides to do the repair of the starter with their own hands. Someone may find it much more convenient to contact a car service technician. For such car enthusiasts, we have compiled a table with prices for the described operation.
Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
When removed carefully, you can easily break it by pulling out the contacts from the winding. After unscrewing, you need to heat the contacts with a soldering iron, and remove the plastic from the metal case. There is no particular point in disassembling it. You cannot climb up to the coils, they seem to be filled with plastic. Therefore, in this case, it is recommended to strip the copper contacts from the lever, and the contacts from the bolts. You can also check with a tester for contacts.
The price of a starter retractor relay is about 350r.
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Often, a starter malfunction is associated with a failure of the retractor relay. Replacing a part with your own hands on a VAZ-2110 is quite simple. You will need a set of tools and instructions are presented in this article.
VIDEO
The video will tell you about the detailed process of replacing the solenoid relay.Also, the video will tell you about all the intricacies and nuances of the procedure.
Solenoid relay RDS 2110.
If the starter does not work when the ignition is turned on or works every other time, then, most likely, the reason lies precisely in the retractor relay.
Replace it it is possible without removing from the vehicle , but as practice shows, it is best to remove it.
This is what the retractor looks like. You will need a tool.
To make a complete replacement, you will need some tools.
Namely: a flat screwdriver, a ratchet and a head for 8. Attention: if the motorist is not sure that he will be able to carry out repair and restoration work on his own, then it is recommended to contact a car service.
Consider the sequence of actions aimed at changing the retractor relay on the VAZ-2110:
First of all, you will need to de-energize the vehicle so as not to close the network and not burn anything.
We dismantle the starter from the car.
Remove the terminal from the starter and set it aside.
We unscrew the case where the retractor relay is located.
We take out the retractor relay.
The relay is pulled from the starter.
The entire starter assembly is often changed, but we recommend not doing this. The solenoid relay is much cheaper than the whole set.
The choice of a new relay should be approached with all seriousness, since the quality of the part will depend on how long it will serve the owner.
Most VAZ-2110s have a solenoid relay manufactured by Bosch, with a catalog number 2339303293 ... The cost of the part is about 2,000 rubles.
In addition to the proposed version of the original part, there are many analogs that can be installed on a car. So, many motorists do just that. Consider what the car spare parts market offers to the owner of 2110:
Cargo 131143 - the cost is 1200 rubles. High quality for little money.
It is quite simple to change the retractor relay on the Vaz-2110 with your own hands, if you have the tools and the necessary knowledge.
Starter and solenoid relay vaz 2110
If the car suddenly stops starting, there are no characteristic sounds before starting the engine, or a strange "hum" appears, then the starter retractor relay may break down. Naturally, the device can sometimes work normally without showing signs of breakdown, but at the most inopportune moments the car has to be started from the pusher. In this situation, only replacing the VAZ 2110 retractor on the starter will change everything for the better. Symptoms of a malfunction are different, for example, the appearance of clicks on the relay, no starter scrolling, no signs of life when turning the ignition key, etc. It is worth noting that replacing the retraction starter of the VAZ 2110 can be done with your own hands.
The VAZ 2110 starter retractor relay is designed to remotely turn on the electric starter motor. They provide the clutch of the bendix (see Replacing the bendix on the VAZ 2110 starter on your own) with the flywheel crown. This element structurally consists of: a return, contact and magnetic system, which includes two coils - a holding one, connected to the control pin and going to the body, and a retractor, connected by a control element.
Vaz 2110 starter solenoid relay
The pipe where the armature is located is a core, inside which there is a copper winding (the end and beginning of the winding are attached with terminals, one side is connected to the electric motor and the control contact, the other to the control terminal and goes to the case).
Vaz 2110 retractor clicks and does not turn the starter
The movement of the armature in the core is carried out due to the electromagnetic field, and when the voltage disappears, the armature in the core goes into its initial state. When powered, a magnetic field appears, forcing the armature to pull back the return springs. When the car engine starts, the voltage starts to disappear, the spring presses on the armature and it returns to its initial position, the contacts open, the "bendix" goes out of engagement.
Note. It is necessary to exclude such malfunctions in the car: the presence of scales, battery discharge, traces of oxidation on the terminals, damage to the wiring, poor attachment of contacts. The car may not start for these reasons.
Vaz 2110 retraction starter
To test the performance of the starter, you will need a battery and two wires:
The starter is removed first;
The first wire connects the output of the solenoid relay to the positive terminal of the battery;
The second cable is connected to the negative terminal with the starter ground;
Note: if there is a click, it means that the bendix mechanism is working. It is important that the click is sharp and quick. If the sound seems sluggish, protracted, then something is wrong inside the mechanism, for example, the patch contacts are burnt out.
Vaz 2110 does not turn the starter retractor clicks
In the event that after the inspection there is a suspicion that the starter needs repair, then you should immediately go for the purchase of a new spare part. If the starter is non-separable, then it is necessary to replace the completely retractor relay. If it is collapsible, then:
To repair the solenoid relay, unscrew the screws on the cover of the relay housing.
Note. In some cases, it is required to unsolder the ends of the winding; they can be an obstacle to removing the cover.
After removing the cover, the power contacts are checked, in many cases they cause a breakdown of the device.
Note. If possible, replace old contacts with new ones. In the event that the contact is not badly damaged, then the burnt surface is removed with fine-grained sandpaper.
After that, the structure is assembled in the reverse order.
The solenoid relay is installed under the bonnet and located on the starter motor. When buying a new one, you must take a non-working item with you and ask for a similar one in the store - in this case, errors are excluded. All manufacturers make their own marking on the solenoid relay. The device is fixed with three screws.
Vaz 2110 remove the retractor starter
VIDEO
Vaz 2110 starter retractor
To replace the retractor relay on a VAZ 2110 car, you will need the appropriate tools. Before starting work, it is imperative to disconnect the ground from the battery, which is marked with a minus sign. This requires a "10" spanner. After removing the contact, you need to find a starter. It is located at the bottom of the engine compartment, between the engine block and the cooling system. Only then can you start dismantling the device.
Vaz 2110 starter retractors
Two wires are connected to the solenoid relay; it is necessary to disconnect the red wire that runs from the relay to the male contact.
On the back of the relay, two nuts are unscrewed, this is done with a wrench on "13".
Using a flat-blade screwdriver, disconnect the cord from the front of the relay retainer.
After releasing the relay, it must be carefully removed.
Note. When performing this procedure, you need to make sure that the core is inside, and the spring located in the relay does not fall out. This is a very complicated procedure in the process of replacing the solenoid relay.
To install a new retracting action, repeat in reverse order. Due to the fact that we left the old core, the new relay is mounted without it, only with a new spring. So:
Armed with a flat screwdriver, you need to screw the wires in front of the relay.
They are connected to the wires and the nuts are tightened with a wrench on "13".
After installing the relay, you need to tighten the nuts that connect the power wire and are attached to the “daddy”. That's it, the machine is ready to go. To replace this element yourself, you will need only three tools, a video - an overview and a photo - an instruction. To perform this procedure with your own hands, you will have to spend about 16 minutes of time and save about 500 rubles in your wallet, which you would have to pay for repairs in car workshops, where the price of these services is constantly growing.
Normal operation of a car engine is possible only if all its constituent elements, as well as the main components of the machine, are in working order. One of the main components of the ignition system in domestic "tens" is the starter device. For more information on how to repair a VAZ 2110 starter with your own hands and in what cases it needs to be carried out, you can learn from this material.
A starter unit with the number 5702.3708 is installed on the domestic "tens", in fact, which is a direct current electric motor. One of the main components of such a device is a traction relay, as well as a planetary gearbox. Excitation of the motor is carried out due to the action of permanent magnets installed inside the structure of the unit. The body of the mechanism itself is made of steel; it is connected with the help of two pins with the device covers.
Designation of the constituent elements of the device
Also, the design of the starter unit implies the presence of an armature and a stator. The armature is designed for rotation in sintered liners, as a result of which the rotation is transmitted through the gearbox to the device drive. When the driver turns the key in the ignition lock, voltage from the car's battery is transmitted to the relay coils. As a result of the influence of the magnetic field, the armature is first retracted, as a result of which the gear of the reducer engages with the flywheel. Accordingly, this leads to the closure of the contact bolts within the structure.
Then the armature itself remains in the same state, it fixes it like this with the help of the holding winding. When the key is turned in the ignition lock, this winding is de-energized. Ultimately, this contributes to the fact that the anchor returns to its original position (the author of the video is HF Autoelectrician).
If the device stops working, the reasons may be as follows:
Replacing the VAZ 2110 starter and repairing it as follows:
Before proceeding with the diagnosis, it is worth knowing the purpose of the solenoid relay. This part of the starter serves to supply current to the starter motor and drive the bendix to engage it with the flywheel. This article will describe in detail the structure and operation of the starter retractor relay, as well as diagnostics and its repair.
All relay operation is based on the principle of electromagnetism. There is a core, the device of which resembles a hollow tube with an anchor located inside, which, in turn, is equipped with a wire winding. When a current appears in the coil, an electromagnetic field is formed, which forces the armature to enter the core. After turning off the current supply, the armature can move freely, which allows it to automatically disconnect the bendix from the flywheel.
In most cases, the starter retractor relay consists of a housing, a magnet with windings, an armature, a return spring, and contacts. The relay coil is directly connected to the starter motor and to the terminal through which the starter is controlled. In turn, the holding coil is connected to the control terminal, which is in contact with the starter housing. When an electric current is applied to the control contact, an electromagnetic induction is created in the coil, which, in turn, forms an electromagnetic field that drives the armature.The armature with the bendix engages the flywheel and at the same time closes the contacts through which the current from the battery is supplied to the starter motor, which, in turn, turns the flywheel of the engine. After starting the engine, when the ignition key is tilted from the “START” position, the power is turned off and the armature returns to its original position, while the power contacts of the electric motor open and it stops.
As a rule, the starter itself and its retractor relay unit are reliable and fail so often. The main cause of breakdown in most cases is the physical wear and tear of the starter parts, burning of the contacts, as well as the destruction of components. Signs of failure of the solenoid relay are the impossibility of turning off the starter after starting the engine, while a characteristic buzz is heard. Starter rotation, but the flywheel does not rotate and the engine does not start. When the ignition key is turned to the “START” position, the starter does not turn on, only a click is heard.
VIDEO
As you know work starter solenoid relay is based on the principle of electromagnetism, during the supply of current to the winding, the armature starts to move, while the position of the bendix changes and it engages with the flywheel, if, although one of the above elements fails, the engine start becomes impossible. To check the starter, it is not necessary to remove it from the car engine; for this, it is enough to close the contact bolts on the back of the relay with a wrench, which will allow the current to be directed to the starter motor. If at the same time the electric motor is running, therefore, the reason is the failure of the solenoid relay. If, during the closure of the contacts, the relay clicks and the starter motor does not turn, then the problem is in the electric motor.
If in the course of diagnostics you come to the conclusion that the starter retractor relay is out of order, then in most cases its repair will consist of replacing it, since it is quite a laborious process to restore its operability, besides, many manufacturers make the starter retractor relay not collapsible. Sometimes, if the relay can be disassembled, you can limit yourself to a simple cleaning of all its elements from contamination.
VIDEO
Effectively working mechanisms that draw in the VAZ 2112 are the key to a quick start in any weather conditions. That is why the driver must regularly carry out a preventive inspection of the unit. A serviceable VAZ starter retractor relay does not emit extraneous sounds.
If, when trying to turn the key in the ignition lock, the driver hears a series of clicks or squeaks, then this indicates that you need to start looking for a breakdown. The sooner this happens, the more likely it is not to be left without a vehicle for a long time.
The driver should know how to test the starter retractor relay by himself. Attention should be paid to the appearance of a characteristic sound: when the key is turned, a click appears in the ignition lock. Further attempts to start the car end with a series of clicks and twitches. Such signs indicate the need for the following check:
bridge the 2 copper contacts located on the back cover of the relay;
the movement that appears will indicate a malfunction of the retractor;
at the time of the check, you must exercise the utmost care, because the solenoid relays rotate at high speed;
an additional control method will be the connection of the positive connector of the retractor with the "+" of the battery;
the second wire connects the "ground" of the starter and the battery;
if the retractors are in good working order, then a sharp click is heard at the moment the circuit closes.
Further actions of the car owner depend on the nature of the detected malfunction. If the device works too quickly or too slowly, we are talking about mechanical wear of its individual elements. Retracting mechanisms often fail due to a short circuit.The charred contacts are expressed in a series of clicks, complemented by the slow operation of the mechanism.
Scheduled or emergency replacement of the starter relay is associated with monitoring the technical condition of the starter itself. For preventive purposes, the mounting bolts of its rear wall are removed. If necessary, the device is freed from accumulated traces of contamination. In the next step, the bendix fork and 2112 brushes are checked for physical wear. If any are found, a replacement is made.
You should not postpone this procedure until later. With further operation, there is a high risk of damaging the traction relay. After that, all the elements are returned to their place. The rear starter cover is closed and the direct repair of the starter solenoid relay begins.
Due to physical wear, external influence or factory defect, it may be necessary to replace the starter retractor relay. It is not recommended to hesitate with this, otherwise the list of car parts requiring repair will significantly expand. To carry out restoration work, an overpass or observation pit will be required. The first is located in the GSK or service station, and the second is present in many garages.
Before starting to eliminate the breakdown, it is necessary to remove the terminal from the "minus". If there is a mudguard or crankcase protection in the car, then they must also be dismantled. The further procedure is as follows:
unscrew the nut located under the bottom of the starter;
remove the terminals located on the VAZ 2110 starter retractor relay;
unscrew the starter mounting nut;
disconnect the relay directly from the starter;
when unscrewing the fastening nuts, it is necessary to hold the spring with the utmost care;
after removal, the core is checked - it necessarily remains in the 2110 starter housing.
As soon as the necessary part is in the hands, it is inspected. This will help a wire, the length of which is from 30 to 40 cm. A direct connection is created between the "negative" terminal of the battery and the exhaust relay. Make sure the negative terminal is connected to the corresponding terminal on the battery. A similar check is made with the "positive" terminal.
At the moment of power supply, the reaction of the retractor element must be immediate.
The gear slides out with a characteristic click. Further actions of the car owner depend on what he saw.
If the power supply of the VAZ 2112 starter has activated the relay, then the problem must be looked for in other components and assemblies.
Otherwise, replace the solenoid relay immediately. At this stage, novice car owners make a common mistake - they forget about the need to check the VAZ 2112 starter relay before replacing. The procedure is the same as described above.
The speed of starting the engine depends on the efficiency of the work of an insignificant in size. In this regard, it is recommended to regularly carry out preventive examinations of this element of the car.
Finally we got around to the starter ... well, how we got there. If the day before yesterday the car had not refused to start at all, then I would not have thought to touch it. I do everything from under the stick ... oh, it's time to change my life radically ...
To be precise, the problem was with the retractor relay (aka solenoid). It clicks, the bendix jumps out, but the engine does not turn ... And the car had this problem for a long time.
Well, here I am at the garage, doing an autopsy ... which says only one thing - the 3.14-Z-Decl starter ... well, if not right now, then in the near bright future ... in short, he can estimate the result of the "Kazakhstan 2030" program for sure cannot ... Nursultan Abishevich, I'm sorry ...
Well, not to be unfounded, a photo of a stator with badass:
perhaps one core in the winding ... but where is it?
yes, here it is ... lying around inside =)
as I understood, once upon a time, due to the fact that the bearing flew apart, everything inside was blown apart. But the craftsmen did not begin to eliminate the consequences, they simply replaced the bearing and put everything back together, without even checking if there was anything unnecessary inside.
and in general, all the insides are covered in scraps of insulation and dirt ...
I consulted with the specialists, they said there is nothing to catch here, if it is spinning, wait until it gets up at all. Can't be repaired.
Well, let's move on to the hero of the occasion - the retractor relay. It turned out to be non-collapsible (sealed), and, according to the assurances of specialists, it cannot be repaired either ... New under the order from the Emirates to wait 20 days ... from America it is faster, but more expensive. Well, you need to check, maybe someone has been lying around on the market, maybe they brought it by mistake, because the 32nd maxim is almost the same ...
Indeed, it was lying around. Looks like a solid 4
... until you put it back in place. Even does not overpower ... clicks, heats up terribly - insidious endurance =) but the bendix does not jump out. I take off, look - there is a spring inside, removed the spring - the bendix pops up, but not completely ... in short, this Chinese piece of excrement does not overpower the obligations imposed on it ... We do not need such hockey, we will hand it over tomorrow ...
And now what to do, to spend N-th amount of time without a car again? To hell with the assurances of specialists! who said "non-separable" ... there is nothing "non-separable" ... .. a couple of dozen cuts around the perimeter and the object is already ready for opening ... you just need to unsolder the wiring from the terminals, otherwise nothing good will come of it.
one penny was burnt by half ... But at the same time it was half intact =) so I am doing it simply.
I remove the stopper (I tried to twist it, but then cut it off so as not to smack the thread)
I take out a nickle, I polish it a little
now that's enough for another 20 years =)
replace the removed stopper with a nut.
I also polish the plate ... so that everything is as new.
I assemble in the reverse order, I roll up and solder the contacts. It is advisable to walk along the seam with a sealant ... well, so that it is airtight
Thus, it turns out that the starter solenoid is not only "collapsible", but also "assembled", which means that it is even "serviced"))
and… moment of truth… - THE MACHINE STARTS. And this means that I again sent specialists to hell, did it my own way and got what I wanted ...
Well, let me summarize. The starter is in any case for a replacement, but I probably will kill him to the end. The retractor is quite maintainable, and if there is a desire, and most importantly, there is no money to buy a new one, then a hacksaw for metal may be very useful. The quality of spare parts on the market still maintains a clear dependence on the price ... for a penny you can't buy anything worthwhile ... it's good if there is a working one at all.
And I also want to note one point, if you yourself have no time to repair a car, that is, an excellent resource where they will definitely prompt you exactly the company or car service that will do all the work for you.
Service the starter on time. And happy road to you.
Video (click to play).